I'm having problems w/ the hosting company right now and am in the process of getting someone else. The site is back here for now:

wrx182 (http://www.angelfire.com/ego/wrx182)


*You should always disconnect the battery before doing any modifications to the electrical system in your vehicle*

To Remove the Day Time Running Light Module:

1) In the engine compartment, above the airbox, there is a black box. Twist the two screws on the top of this and remove it.

2) If you look down under where this cover was, you will see a metal module, with a wire harness plugged into the bottom of it. There is a "caution high temperature" warning label on the front side of this module. That is the day time running light module.

3) There are 2 10mm bolts that secure the module to the side of the strut tower, remove them.

4) Unplug the wire from the module and secure with a zip tie for a clean look. Throw the module in the trash can and you are done.




To Rewire the Foglights to Run With Parking Lights / High Beams Also:

1) Remove the under dash below the steering wheel - 3 screws: 1 on the side (where the door closes), 1 on the left front, and 1 on the right front.

2) Remove the fuse box from it's metal frame - Remove the 1 screw on the top and press in on the metal tabs (one on each side in the middle). Also remove the black relay boxs on the right side by pressing in the tabs.

3) Splice a 6" piece of wire into the orange wire on the back of the fuse box.

4) Locate the red w/ green stripe wire on the 4th relay down from the top.

5) Cut this wire and tape the end coming from the dash.

6) Solder the piece of wire spliced to the orange wire with this new end and tape it up.

7) Test everything before putting it back together



Installing a Turbo Timer:

* I recommend buying the wiring harness for the WRX, it will save you a lot of wire splicing * Turbo Timer mounting depends on positioning, you must make up your mind on where you want to mount the timer before you begin and place it there *

1) Remove the under dash below the steering wheel - 3 screws: 1 on the side (where the door closes), 1 on the left front, and 1 on the right front.

2) Remove the center console - Open the armrest. Pull up on the cup holder section, this will pop right off. Remove the 2 screws in the bottom of the armrest container. Remove the shift knob and pull up on the entire trim piece, this will also pop right off. There are 2 screws under it, remove them. There is 1 screw in the center, forward from the ebrake handle, remove it also. Pull the entire center area out.

3) Locate the ignition assembly - Blue harness below the steering wheel and slightly to the right. Unplug this and plug each end into the wiring harness. Plug the harness coming from the turbo timer itself into the other end of the wiring harness.

4) From the wiring harness, the black wire needs to be appropriately grounded. The blue and brown wires need to be run behind the dash to the passenger footwell area. The gray wire needs to be run to the ebrake.

5) On the passenger side of the ebrake handle, slightly hidden under the carpeting, there is a pink wire connected to a sensor. This is where you will splice the gray wire from the turbo timer to.

6) Pull back the carpeting on the passenger side foot area - 3 screws: 1 on the top left near the center console area and 2 on the right by the bottom corner of the door under the dash.

7) Below this will be the ECU cover plate, remove this: 3 10mm bolts of the top of it and 1 10mm bolt higher up. *Becareful, you are now working with very delicate / expensive equipment!*

8) Remove the platic cover and unbolt the ECU - 1 10mm bolt at the top and 1 at the bottom.

9) You must now splice the blue and brown wires from the turbo timer into the ECU. Refer to the pinout found here (http://www.cginc.net/jorge/tr/wrx/my02usecupinout.htm).

10) Once you have spliced the 2 wires to the ECU, put it all back together.

11) If you have the optional security upgrade from Subaru, you must now modify your car so that your security system will arm while running on the timer.

12) Above the fuse panel, there is a black Keyless entry module. Remove this - 1 10mm bolt.

13) Find the dark green w/ black trace wire and cut it. Tape both ends and bolt the keyless entry module back where it came from.

14) On the security system module (located on the drivers side of the parking brake) find the gray wire and cut that, taping both ends.

15) You are all set. Put everything back together and have fun

Thanks,

Very well done!

Originally posted by wrx182
1) In the engine compartment, above the battery, there is a black box. Twist the two screws on the top of this and remove it.


Just to clarify, the cover is not on the battery side, it's right below the strut tower on the left side of the engine bay.

Thank you very much. I copied and pasted this into word and will use it later for my HKS turbo timer later when I have the time. I will also post this on my website for others to read. Not like anyone actually goes there, but just in case....

thx those tips help alot

hehe me off to go do some mods now =P

wrx0r

i made a small website with these instructions on it + some other crap...

my little site (http://www.angelfire.com/ego/wrx182)

Good job, very informative, specially to the newbies.

great job:) being that I have nothing else to do I think I'm gonna try the fog light mod:) great job..very well written:)
keith

awesome thanks for the post i'll definitely use it when i get my TT.

I have a question tho. When you're clipping the wires for the stock security system, what are you cutting? and why are these wires not needed? I assume they are there for a reason to begin with, so what does cutting them affect?

thanks
j

i'm not positive as to what those wires do...but that is what i was told needs to be done...and after doing it myself, everything still works perfectly....i believe they were wires related to letting the system know whether the car is running or not, without cutting them, the security system will not arm while the timer is counting down....once i had gotten over the fear of cutting them and found a large amount of other members that had all done the same, i went ahead and did it too, and everything does still work just fine.

Ok, Will do. Gotta stick it, so that I wont forget.

Thank you very much for these mods, but I have a question. I went right out and did the foglight mod, and got it all hooked up, and it worked and all, but my fan is always on when the key is on the second click(the one where the lights come on), did the fan always come on then or what, I cant remember. Thanks.

Thanks for the well doced info. That was big of you.

Good info. Lots of detail here. Thanx man!

One question, you said that to make our life easier, we should buy the wiring harness for the WRX for the turbo timer. Who sells that? I really wanna put a TT, but that was always the thing that stopped me- I didnt want to cut wires.

Thanks
Danny

Originally posted by dandbest
One question, you said that to make our life easier, we should buy the wiring harness for the WRX for the turbo timer. Who sells that? I really wanna put a TT, but that was always the thing that stopped me- I didnt want to cut wires.

Thanks
Danny

http://www.optauto.com

search for "WRX" and it should come up. Great prices on TT's, too!



Or more directly:

Direct link to HKS TT harness (http://www.optauto.com/webstore/product_information.asp?number=HKS-4103-RF002&variation=&aitem=4&mitem=7&back=yes)

Originally posted by dannyboy7
...did the foglight mod, and got it all hooked up, and it worked and all, but my fan is always on when the key is on the second click(the one where the lights come on), did the fan always come on then or what, I cant remember. Thanks.

I don't know about your car, but my fan does not come on at this point. I am very seriously considering this mod but won't do it if this somehow interferes with the fans normal operation,

If anyone that has performed this mod can address this issue, I would appreciate it.

Thanks
Matt

Ok, being the entirely patient guy that I am, I decided to check things out myself as far as the fog light modification goes, and not wait for an answer about the fan problem encountered by dannyboy7.

I, however, made one change to the instructions as they appear at the beggining of this thread. I want to be able to turn on the fog lights irregardless of whether the headlights are on or not.

So, rather than tying into the orange wire from the fuse box, I tapped power from one of the larger green (all green) wires going to the 2nd from the bottom relay on the relay box. This wire has power only when the ignition key is on.

Now I can turn my fog lights on with or without the headlights, and I have no problem with my fan running. As for the fan problem, I don't believe it is related to the fog light modification, probably just coincidental timing.

Matt:) :)

Why mess with other relays? I wrapped mine on the illumintation fuse so my fog lights would turn on with the parking lights. I think its cooler this way and I can keep the fog light switch on. If you want to be able to turn it on with ignition, wrap the wire around an ignition fuse. Same if you want accessoies or even anytime (battery fuse).

About the "fan" issue. If you turn the key to the Acc. position and turn the fan selector knob to "defrost" and turn the fan speed selector to any setting (other than 0) it turns on the radiator fan. I use this to cool my engine (after my turbo is cooled down already) on track days. Just make sure you don't leave it on too long. (Good thing I have this HKS TT w/ voltage meter!)

Maybe you have this set to these positions. Thats why your fan is kicking on.

Ka

I just tried the fan trick...

it works in the ON (not ACC) position...

also, it works whenever the A/C button is pressed in (defrost mode actually engages the compressor which in effect is the same as pressing the A/C button)...

pretty cool! (pun intended)

I tried mine in the FACE position with the A/C button pressed and lit and the key in the ON position and the fan (after a brief delay) turns out...

Thats really nifty... Do that with the hood up for cool down :)



Originally posted by wrxboi
About the "fan" issue. If you turn the key to the Acc. position and turn the fan selector knob to "defrost" and turn the fan speed selector to any setting (other than 0) it turns on the radiator fan. I use this to cool my engine (after my turbo is cooled down already) on track days. Just make sure you don't leave it on too long. (Good thing I have this HKS TT w/ voltage meter!)

Maybe you have this set to these positions. Thats why your fan is kicking on.

Ka

Good info. Thanks.

Originally posted by Imprezer
Ok, Will do. Gotta stick it, so that I wont forget.

Thanks man:cool:

What does the turbo timer do?
Thanks

Originally posted by dman918
What does the turbo timer do?
Thanks

It allows your engine to continue running for a set "time" after the ingnition is turned of and you have left your car. Some feel that it allows your turbo to cool off before the engine is turned off-in the WRX, it is not necessary as the turbo is cooled very efficiently unless you drive fast and hard for a prolonged period, in which case idling your engine for a few minutes would do the same. For daily driving, this is not necessary and a waste of money (I am sure some will disagree with the waste of money issue but it is)

Thanks for all the good info. :devil:

Has anyone done the Hoodscoop screen?
I was wondering if it impeded airflow and whether putting the on the intercooler instead was a better idea?
I just got a stone through my hoodscoop and dented a few vanes while I was playing in the mountains this weekend so this mod's high on my list and I'm wondering which way would be better.
Thanks
Derek

Originally posted by TempestX
Has anyone done the Hoodscoop screen?
I was wondering if it impeded airflow and whether putting the on the intercooler instead was a better idea?
I just got a stone through my hoodscoop and dented a few vanes while I was playing in the mountains this weekend so this mod's high on my list and I'm wondering which way would be better.
Thanks
Derek

I haven't noticed any decrease in performance since doing it, just a decrease in the number of dings to my intercooler. As far as being able to test and see if it does reduce airflow, you'd need some silly equipment to be able to do that.

Good luck to you with either that you choose to do.

Originally posted by jasonmolinari
I have a question tho. When you're clipping the wires for the stock security system, what are you cutting? and why are these wires not needed? I assume they are there for a reason to begin with, so what does cutting them affect?

thanks
j
It may be for the fuel pump. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

wrx182,
for clarification can you state the TT you are using and
what the blue and brown wires from the TT are that goes
to the ECU? Which pins on the ecu?

jasonmolinari,

The Green/black wire goes to both the alarm/keyless module and
the Green/Red wire goes to the integrated module(not sure what it is).


These two wires carry the IGN signal from the key switch.
By cutting these two wires, the alarm/keyless system always thinks the car is off. So I think you can arm the alarm at any time.

I'm in the process of installing my TT.

-initial

first off, no, the car will not arm at anytime, i've tested this - it acts the same as it did before cutting those two wires.

secondly, i'm have the HKS Type-1 TT. The blue and brown wires that run to the ECU are for the speed sensor and the RPM. Check the mods section on my site (www.angelfire.com/ego/wrx182) - it has a pinout of the ECU, just track down the pin that you need and splice it, there's so many wires, I can't remember exactly which one, but all you need is the pinout.

Good luck.

wrx182,

14) On the security system module (located on the drivers side of the parking brake) find the gray wire and cut that, taping both ends.

I believe it is also a green/black wire. I'm not sure what signal the
grey wire is? Green/black wire also goes to the Security unit on the passenger side as the Green/black wire that goes to the Keyless entry unit on the driver side about the fuse box.

Now I can arm the alarm when the car is running.

I just can't locate the pink wire for the ebrake????


-initial

ya..hehehah....that was a tricky one for me too - i was just looking in the wrong spot.

what you want to do, when you take off the center console, all you can are 3 wires running up to that little metal thingy in front of the brake.

ok. on the pasenger side, pull back the carpeting a little bit, even with where the base of the brake handle meets the console. off to the side, you'll see a little sensor thingy with the pink wire running off of it.

good luck.

Heh heh,

here are pics of my install: pics (http://i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110196)

wrx182,

thanks--found it and got it hooked up.
Had to take the whole center piece out to find it.


-initial

thanks for all the info., i found it very useful, but i have a question about the last steps of the job

5) Cut this wire and tape the end coming from the dash.
6) Solder the piece of wire spliced to the orange wire with this new end and tape it up.

tape the end coming from where in the dash? i.e. put a pigtail clip on it? does this wire go to the foglight switch? which 'new end' are you refering to? if you could help clarify the origins of either end of the wire you are refering to, i'd appreciate it.

Brian

Originally posted by WRX Potential

5) Cut this wire and tape the end coming from the dash.
6) Solder the piece of wire spliced to the orange wire with this new end and tape it up.

tape the end coming from where in the dash? i.e. put a pigtail clip on it? does this wire go to the foglight switch? which 'new end' are you refering to? if you could help clarify the origins of either end of the wire you are refering to, i'd appreciate it.

Brian


Brian,

Locate the red w/ green stripe wire on the 4th relay down from the top. Once you find this wire, cut it - leaving a an inch or two coming from the relay. Now that you cut it, you will connect (solder, twist, wire nut, etc.) the orange wire the the inch or two stub that is still coming from relay box. Of the wire that you cut, the end that is no longer in use - just put some electrical tape over the end just for security and tuck it away under the dash or something.

Hope that helps.

If there is anything else you need, feel free to let me know.

Jim

is the fuse box in the engine compartment the same as the fuse pnl. you are talking about in step 12 ? please let me know where the fuse panel is tring to get my alarm to work while my timer is on
also the grey wire is inside the center console?

thanks for the help

Originally posted by BPWRX
is the fuse box in the engine compartment the same as the fuse pnl. you are talking about in step 12 ? please let me know where the fuse panel is tring to get my alarm to work while my timer is on
also the grey wire is inside the center console?

thanks for the help

If you remove the center console and pull back the carpeting on the passenger side by the bottom of the e-brake, you will find the grey wire running from a little sensor.

The fuse panel we are talking about is inside the cabin. On the driver's side, remove the large plastic dash piece under the steering wheel and you will see the fuse panel on your left side.

Any other questions, feel free to contact me or just reply here.

Jim.

by the way the fan comes on on defrost and A/C on is because the A/C runs always on defrost (it speeds up defogging....) I think though that the A/C will not kick in below 35-40 degrees...

Cheers

T.

yep

also, i think that if the mode is set to Feet/Defrost, the A/C does NOT come on... Kind of nice, since you don't always need the A/C compressor running to keep the windows clear...

Mike

Originally posted by titsataki
by the way the fan comes on on defrost and A/C on is because the A/C runs always on defrost (it speeds up defogging....) I think though that the A/C will not kick in below 35-40 degrees...

Cheers

T.

It should be noted that the HKS turbo timer harness is the same as the WRX

I bought the connector for my Apexi turbo timer and used the HKS harness to plug it in. It took about 3 minutes to install.!!!!

Just one question, for the foglight mod, will the fogs run even if all other lights are off?

Originally posted by 128d
Just one question, for the foglight mod, will the fogs run even if all other lights are off?

no

LOL wrx182, I used yer site to do the silencer removal awhile back and didn't even realize it when I met you this past weekend... Thanks man


sherif

Originally posted by sherifx
LOL wrx182, I used yer site to do the silencer removal awhile back and didn't even realize it when I met you this past weekend... Thanks man


sherif

ya dude....hehe

ya dude....hehe

Haha, thanks dawg.

Originally posted by 128d
Just one question, for the foglight mod, will the fogs run even if all other lights are off?
You can make it work without the other lights if you want.

First off, WRX182, thanx for the awesome instructions. I removed my DRL module as you advertised. Second, I pulled my dash apart to look into the foglight mod.

I hope I'm not beating a dead horse here, but with the foglight mod, it is my understanding that I can run the foglights with just the parking lights on. I can also run them with the high beams on. Is this correct?

And secondly, there is some confusion on my part about the status of the green light on the foglight switch. Does this only come on when it is running the "stock" combination (i.e low beams and foglights), and does not come on with the parking light/foglight or high-beam/foglight combination?

Again, I appologize for re-hashing this one again. It's just that in my searches, it is never really clear as to the status of the green light on the switch. Before I cut into the stock loom, I'd like to find this out.

Thanx for your time.

Originally posted by monoboy
...but with the foglight mod, it is my understanding that I can run the foglights with just the parking lights on. I can also run them with the high beams on. Is this correct?


Correct

Originally posted by monoboy
And secondly, there is some confusion on my part about the status of the green light on the foglight switch. Does this only come on when it is running the "stock" combination (i.e low beams and foglights), and does not come on with the parking light/foglight or high-beam/foglight combination?


The green light on the fog switch will only turn on with the lowbeam / fog combination...I think there maybe another wire that the light draws power from that we could simply splice like the other, but I haven't had time to mess around with it yet. If I figure it out, I'll post it here.

Check out my site for a ton more mods / installs.

Good luck & take care,

Jim
www.angelfire.com/ego/wrx182

Just got my WRX and some of these mods were what I was looking to do right away.

Thanks for the great info!

:)

I was attempting to do the foglight mod last night and had problems accessing the orange wire. After removing the fuse box, I could see the orange wire plugged into the back but there is absolutely no give in the harness at all and all but 1/4" of the orange wire is wrapped in white tape.

Should I remove the connector with the orange wire from the back of the fuse box, peel back the white tape and then do the splice or am I in the wrong location??


Thanks for the great tips!!

Originally posted by Reddy

Should I remove the connector with the orange wire from the back of the fuse box, peel back the white tape and then do the splice


yes...you are in the right spot...just be carefull when cutting the white wrap back....and re-wrap with electrical tape when you're done...good luck

Riddle me this.... I am trying to figure out how to make my factory alarm arm when the TT shuts off. I have decided to try to locate the wire needed to arm the alarm. By giving it power all the time and routing the ground through the ebrake itshould work out. At least I think it should. So when you are driving since the circuit is broken with the ebrake the alarm wont give you any probs. Also I guess you will need to possible toggle switch the power wire so you can bypass the alarm for repairs or such. Any one got an idea?

wrx'r:

if you found what wire it is that activates the alarm (the one power goes through when you hit the arm button) then i suppose you could hook it up to the tt so that when it shuts off, it somehow activates that wire to arm the system. i don't know about doing this - if you went somewhere public and got out and went in a store, everything in your car would be vulernable until the tt shuts the car off. i don't know...i'd ask over in the audio/security forum, some of those guys really know their wiring...and i don't think many people ever look at this thread anymore cause it's been up here so long.

I agree with the Gallstone comments, but if you're like me and want that mental reassurance and especially if you've ever checked out the turbo after a run....pretty nice. Glowing red turbos=cool, but not. I'm getting a t.t. as soon as I have the extra cash.

JR (WRX34)

Originally posted by WRX34
I agree with the Gallstone comments, but if you're like me and want that mental reassurance and especially if you've ever checked out the turbo after a run....pretty nice. Glowing red turbos=cool, but not. I'm getting a t.t. as soon as I have the extra cash.

JR (WRX34)

you can get the basic hks type-0 from www.optionsauto.com for $70 or so....

Jim

thanx.. very informative

I'm glad everyone is benifiting from my instructions.:)

Jim

www.angelfire.com/ego/wrx182

good stuff

thanks for sharing

GoodFinder :)

my site has be redesigned....now up and running at www.wrx182.net

I have the hks type 1 with the security mod. I love the timer and all the functions and the mod works great. My only question is how do I stop the fan from kicking in. It sets off the motion shock sensor in the car and has set off my alarm while cooling down. From reading the threads can I assume that not having my car on defrost will stop the fan from engaging? It is not warm out right now so I don't know why the fan should kick in.

i don't think there is any way to stop the fan from coming on...while it does come on with the defrost, it also comes on to help cool things off...i'd recommend turning the sensitivity on the alarm down, because i think the fan issue might be unavoidable.

if you want others opinions, post in this (factory forced) forum asking everyone, because i'm sure many don't check this post any longer.

Jim
www.wrx182.net

I just ordered the hood scoop screen from .......shucks...I forgot. but seems alot better than the rig i had on my intercooler. it will go right on the hood scoop. its in the mail. can't wait. anyone use a K&N filter in the box? I am going to buy one and was wondering if anyone had any feelings about it. Kragen says they have the 22-2031-2 in stock but the K and N site says the 22-2232-2 is supposed to be the fit. I guess the one they have will be the one to buy?
the silencer mod.......With the new filter and the silencer out ....what kind of sound will I get? Is there any way to take out the silencer without lifting the car? probably not.

d

-yes, you can remove the silencer w/o lifting the car or removing the wheel...just remove that plastic lining underneath and manuever it out.

-i remember hearing that the correct K&N for the WRX is #33-2232

-you won't hear much w/ the silencer removed...but you will hear a little bit more of the turbo & bov.

thanks for the tip. I suppose I might try to take the silencer out and when I put the hood scoop screen in. I hope that taking that silencer out won't affect the way it all goes back together, I don't want to suck anything dirty into my engine. Without the silencer and that K&N filter, It might sound pretty good, and then the cobb cat back.....Ooooooweee.

I read that article. Makes sense. thanks for the link. Now we all know, bluer is not necessarily brighter, often dimmer and definetely not better. I am going to take out my "Cool Blue"s and put my factorys back in. So unless it says Xenon, then it really isn't better. All these bulbs actually say they aren't brighter than normal halogens, but are great for show or off road use. So.....are there any XENON's for sale somewhere? if anyone knows a link...post it. Does anyone know if the factory wattage is 55/65w? So if we find anything that is higher than 55 it's a safe bet that it is brighter, right?

by TT you mean Twin Turbo or Turbo Timer? Is there any possible way to do Twin Turbo (I don't know much about turbos, especially twin) on the WRX?

so now we know that the blue bulbs can be a hoax and not as bright as they claim.....Does anyone know where to buy Xenon gas bulbs and how much they cost.?

exorcism: there are several problems w/ running a twin turbo setup...try a search on it, as it has been discussed in length before

dza: you can get a hid kit from www.vividracing.com for about $500

So aside from the 500.00 HID kit, is there a Xenon bulb that will fit into stock housing? Or a Xenon-like bulb that doesn't cut down on the other wavelengths of light in the spectum making them dimmer? This topic has been beaten to death I'm sure, but in my research i still haven't gotten a straight answer.
Thanks
d

if you don't want to spend the money on the hid kit, i know several people go w/ pia bulbs as an alternative....pia super whites or bright whites, something like that....i think they're about $50 + for them...you should be able to find them at an autozone maybe?

Does anybody know how to disconect the warning chimes?

what warning chimes?

The chimes that go off when the keys in the ignition and the door is open, and when the seat belts are not hooked up, etc.. My old 1984 Toyota Tercel Wagon had a little buzzer box that I only had to unplug.

So with the stock BOV, or without a BOV that makes a lot of noise and a new K&N drop in and the silencer removed can we expect to hear a nice difference.....? I hope I can hear some thing without having to get a BOV installed.

Is anyone in the Bay area doing the install gatherings at thier house? I would like to remove mine but I am hesitant, I always have bad luck with those things.

d

Originally posted by dza360
So with the stock BOV, or without a BOV that makes a lot of noise and a new K&N drop in and the silencer removed can we expect to hear a nice difference.....? I hope I can hear some thing without having to get a BOV installed.

Is anyone in the Bay area doing the install gatherings at thier house? I would like to remove mine but I am hesitant, I always have bad luck with those things.

d

Hmm, install gatherings? never thought of that :)
I'm in Colorado Springs, CO, thinking about doing some mods, starting with the foglight mod. Anyone else in CO into getting together to mod their cars?

I installed the hood scoop screen and it looks good. I removed that black thing that attaches right under the scoop. Just seemed like it was heavy and useless. Does it really force air into the intercooler? Will enough air get to it if i have removed the whole thing? I hope so. Seems like it would get enough air from all angles without it.

Tried to take out my silencer yesterday without jacking it up...I took the intake scoop off and peeled part of the fender cover, couldn't find it. Oh well. I guess I will save that one for another time. I wish I could hear that sucking noise better.

any comments on my I-club decal job?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer these questions.

exorcism - you'll want to check in your proper regions forum.

dza - what piece of metal did you take off under the hood scoop??? if it was the hood scoop splitter that moved air, then you should really really put it back on. the intake silencer is in the front right corner of your bumper. if you take off the under coverings and look up - it will be a large black box bolted to the fender wall - you can't miss it.

There is a HKS TT with HARNESS on ebay dutch aution till feb 10

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601851411&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1013377123&indexURL=0&rd=1

Originally posted by jasonmolinari
awesome thanks for the post i'll definitely use it when i get my TT.

I have a question tho. When you're clipping the wires for the stock security system, what are you cutting? and why are these wires not needed? I assume they are there for a reason to begin with, so what does cutting them affect?

thanks
j

What you are actually doing is disabling the security system's starter kill. I suspected this from the beginning before actually attempting to do this mod. After putting everything back together, I found out that the starter kill no longer works. Now thieves can actually try to steal the car without having to worry about the starter kill. I heared of others being able to bypass disabling the starter kill and still be able to arm the car but I don't know how.

there is a much easier way to disconnect the drl's, on the passenger side under the dash all the way to the right there are three relays, the one furthest right is the drl, unplug it and your done.

go to http://wrx.swankmonkey.com/turbotimer/ There's good instuctions there on hoe to hook up a turbo timer w/o disabling the starter kill feature. It works if you do it right. I had a little trouble the first time.The pink wire for the parking brake feature is under the carpet on the pasenger side right next to the base of the paking brake handle. this is the wire you need to tap. I posted this here because he doesn't have this in his instructions.

Originally posted by jjunior887
go to http://wrx.swankmonkey.com/turbotimer/ There's good instuctions there on hoe to hook up a turbo timer w/o disabling the starter kill feature. It works if you do it right. I had a little trouble the first time.The pink wire for the parking brake feature is under the carpet on the pasenger side right next to the base of the paking brake handle. this is the wire you need to tap. I posted this here because he doesn't have this in his instructions.
Hmmm, I'll have to look that up. I'm having the same issue with the starter kill problem. Can anyone else confirm swankmonkey's directions as solving this problem?

Currently, I have the wire-cutting solution on my car w/o the starter kill.

After unclipping the the wiring harness, how do u get the module(rectangular thing) off? I just unplugged the wiring harness and it didn't work. I got an engine check light, then plugged the harness back in then the light went away after awhile.

Does anyone have a picture of the daytime running lights module? Im really scared i am doing the wrong thing to get them disconnected.