After getting tuned this cel kept comming up: P1152. I'd pull the code but it keeps comming back.

Manufacturer control: fuel air metering
p1152 - Front O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Low)

Does it mean that I need a new O2 sensor in the header? Could I just pull the code using UTEC for good? Any other suggestions as to how I could solve the problem? Thanks

im having the same problem! lemme know what you find out cus nobody seems to be know...

did you recently do headers?

bump

I'm getting both P1152 and P1153.

I've data logged and my tuner can't seem to find any issues with a/f. we were hoping it would turn up something. I know the meanings of the codes but don't see how the o2 sensor could be oscillating like it seems it is.

yes i've searched, cause no real cause for the issue has been brought up. Thanks.

front o2 sensor is probably dead. i had mine replaced under warranty even with a turboback...but i hadn't touched the headers. you should try cleaning it first though.

it's getting good signal though...the data readings are normal and not locked or static or anything

yup.. i got the same code.. so i purchased a new O2 sensor and i will put it on when i get back to cali on the 8th...O2 sensor is jacked.. I heard the high input really does not mess with anything but since it came on, my idles have been a lil jacked but im sure it will straighten out once i put O2 in.. You will notice when you drive slow and dont go over 3500rpms, the CEL will clear.. its freakin crazy..lol

Yea mine was the front o2 sensor from C16 leaded fuel abuse :)

yup.. i got the same code.. so i purchased a new O2 sensor and i will put it on when i get back to cali on the 8th...O2 sensor is jacked.. I heard the high input really does not mess with anything but since it came on, my idles have been a lil jacked but im sure it will straighten out once i put O2 in.. You will notice when you drive slow and dont go over 3500rpms, the CEL will clear.. its freakin crazy..lol

I haven't been able to clear it other than with ecuexplorer. So you guys have had both the P1152 and the P1153 codes at the same time? I mean how does the uppipe o2 sensor get both high and low codes thrown.

im sorry.. i threw P1153..At RPM's above 3500 and hard driving, it comes on. But under 3500 and slow driving, it goes off. I heard the P1152(low input) is the code that really messes things up and gets the car acting weird. I heard this from a tuner so i suggest getting a new O2 before it affects anything.

The codes don't seem to affect anything, idle, cruise, nothin'. Both codes pop on after... say 10-30 min of cruising at the highway around 70-80mph. And all it does is kick off the cruise control. No loss of performance or anything.

Same results for me but im going to Log it once i get back to cali to make sure it is not making any changes. We never really know what our engine is doing until we log it. For a while I was scared I was running lean but im burning too much gas to even consider that but i will find out when i do the log and O2 install.. The code comes on at over 60 MPH also..

maybe we can compare logs when you get yours done. nothing jumped out at me.

DTC P1152 — O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE (LOW)
(BANK1 SENSOR1) —
1. OUTLINE OF DIAGNOSIS
Detect that lambda value remains Low.
Judge NG when lambda value is abnormal in accordance with lambda value of front oxygen (A/F) sensor and
running condition that is vehicle speed, amount of intake air engine coolant temperature, sub feedback control,
etc.
Lambda value = Actual air fuel ratio/Theoretical air fuel ratio
Lambda > 1: Lean
Lambda < 1: Rich

If you have P1152 the front O2 thinks you're running rich given the current driving conditions. Code P1153 indicates the front O2 thinks you're running lean.

Logging will probably verify where this is occurring.

Here is a shortened log...it took over an hour for some reason for the car to finally re-enact the code. The area where the code came on is in read and green in the excel file. Line 424.

LINK (http://www.kevinkeeganpro.com/random/keeganxt_log.xls)

Your MAF voltage dropped considerably for that brief instance--you went rich then incredibly lean. The RPM's didn't really drop in that timeframe either.

From 23 g/s of air down to 9.54 g/s in 2 seconds--with a steady RPM. I'd look at your intake or MAF sensor for the problem. Based on what I'm seeing with the MAF your O2 sensor is probably fine.

while i was cruising at 70 mph with cruise control on. So when the code hit...the cruise control disabled and it let it coast for about 10 sec then sped back up to keep with traffic. So in 5th rpm's dropped slowly and the boost dropped from cruise -7 to zero throttle -10psi. I think the problem would have to be leading up to that point...or am i off.

I looks like it dropped first, triggered the CEL, and kicked off the cruise. As to why it dropped in the first place--that's the question. Your AFR's should be around 14.7. They seem low even before the event occurred.

even on an tuned map?

even on an tuned map?

The O2 sensor is looking for a certain target AFR (14.7) for closed-loop fueling. I don't know if that lambda value is adjustable or why you'd even want to adjust it...I'm not a tuner.

The P1152 is saying you're running richer than 14.7 and from the logs it seems that you are (13.7-14.01) consistently.

It could be a tuning issue, or it could be something like a leaky injector.

the a/f on my latest log does seem to be going slightly above and slightly below 14.7, Which would explain both the high and low codes.

Where exactly does this 14.7 number come from?

And if it's constantly going above and below this number, why doesn't the code come on sooner?

And one last topic, last night i got a P0137 code which is the rear o2 sensor. I have a catless exhaust and one spark plug defouler installed. I ended up just disabling the code with ecuflash. Was this the correct move since the rear o2 is useless cause there's no cat in front of it?

14.7 is the Stoichiometric Air/Fuel Ratio for gasoline. It is the ratio that which the mixture is 'chemically balanced'. It basically provides just enough air to completely burn all the fuel.

Is it used for light engine load conditions such as cruise, or low speed applications due to the extreme temperatures the ratio produces. When you WOT the car shifts from closed-loop fueling to open-loop fueling to deliver more gas, lower temperatures, and prevent knocking or pinging under higher load conditions.

The code may not be coming on sooner due to the the way the ECU detects the problem. Subaru refers to the time it takes in what they call 'driving cycles'. Some codes take up to 20 driving cycles to trigger that there is a problem. Some take 1 or 2 cycles.

If you're catless just keep the P0137 disabled.

Thanks for all your help. Is there a way to test the front o2, i just can't imagine it going bad after 25k. My tuner mentioned something like A/F Trim in the map, is that something that can be adjusted to balance it out...

another question, if i were to replace the front o2 sensor, is it possible to replace it with a wideband sensor. would it be compatible with the computer and then would i get accurate readings using data logging software.

Not sure...aside from logging the rear O2 sensor and comparing the readings. Personally, I think your O2 sensor is fine....

I'm not a tuner so I can't really tell you what to do next. Maybe someone more knowledgeable in that area can chime in...

there's no place that i've seen for the rear o2 a/f to be logged, though i have logged the voltage to it and it does some weird stuff. hitting zero at times and it cycles from what appears to be a normal voltage all the way to zero slowly then back up again to normal a little quicker.

but i just disabled that code (P0137) so that's out of the equation

there's no place that i've seen for the rear o2 a/f to be logged, though i have logged the voltage to it and it does some weird stuff. hitting zero at times and it cycles from what appears to be a normal voltage all the way to zero slowly then back up again to normal a little quicker.

k i got a new code today...after disabling 1152 1153 0137 0138 something new came up today on the highway. I went back to my work after lunch and turned my car off, went inside and got my laptop and plugged it in to the car, plugged in the test connectors and then read the codes, and nothing...

the only codes there were the normal (at least i think they are normal) start switch and neutral switch codes that have always popped up when you turn the ignition to on with the test connectors connected. There were no other new codes. Did i eliminate the code by turning the car off then checking them with the laptop. what's the deal?

I threw 1152 and 1153 also. It drove ok, but I was getting about 30% loss in mileage. I turns out it was in fact a bad front o2 sensor(at 30,000 miles).

and you haven't thrown a code since? thanks for the input too.

Nope, I got a new one from subarugenuineparts for like 160 I think. Haven't thrown a code since.

sorry for keeping this topic going, how do you know the sensor went bad?

Got my O2 sensor in on saturday and the car is running great. The O2 sensor was fried. I guess from running my Equal Length header with Cobb's OTS Map. It was obvioulsy running lean at some time. Now that my O2 sensor is in, according to Cobb AP. i see average driving around 14's AFR and WOT at 11.1. and i was tuned running 10.6 according to my tuners wideband.

so no more codes for you either...?

i went ahead and ordered a new front o2 in hopes this will solve the most common p1152 and p1153 codes that i've gotten the last few months. i'll see how it goes.

does the rear o2 sensor affect the tuning at all on an 06 WRX? I've read it's useless on other cars when you're running a catless downpipe?

bump, did you get the O2 sensor yet?

I just took my car in to the dealer becasue i think i was getting the same code. I dont know the cel number but what your guys are describing sounds like what was going on with mine. The guys at the dealer ship told me that i fried a sensor becasue i put aftermarket headers and up pipe on that didn't have a cat in it, on my baja turbo. He said becasue their was no cat in the uppipe that is burned the sensor. So if you put a new one in your just going to keep burning them. The thing with the cruse control he said if you go above 52 mph the car does a system check and becasue that sensor is fried it will keep pulling up the code. So what you have to do is go to radio shack and by a resistor and put it into the connection. (which is why im on here now looking for that resister becasue it is a certain one and i saw this string). I dont know how to but i think somewhere on this web page they show you how. I hope this helps and if it has nothing to do with what your talking about ingnor this

ok, here is what you do my friend. get the new O2 sensor and get tuned immediately. the guy is correct. the header and up pipe is moving so much air you might be running lean depending on which code was thrown. mine was moving soo much air that it did run lean.. your tuner can dump extra fuel so you wont be running lean..

oh yea, mine was fried before i got protuned on the OTS map from AP. Not Cobb's fault since they only made maps with TBE.

Are you guy's running Stock cats or aftermarket High Flow cats?

bump, did you get the O2 sensor yet?

K sorry, I just got back from vacation to THE DRAGON! I love that road.

I put in the new sensor friday night before we left sat morning, I also went ahead and replaced the sparkplugs. So now on the highway the car is perfect and will not throw any of those particular codes or any codes for that matter. I also switched back to the map with no disabled codes before i left, so i could see if i fixed the real problem.

Well now when i start up cold in the morning, within 10 sec the engine will now throw both the p1152 and the p1153 codes. If i reset the ecu, i never see them again till the next morning or possibly if i'm lucky the morning after that. I have no clue why it is doing this now. Brand new spark plugs brand new front o2 sensor and the car is running really really great.

i'm running a catless invidia downpipe on my 2006 wrx. The uppipe on the 06 contains no cat either. And i am protuned.

Personally, I think your O2 sensor is fine....

Start looking at your MAF and air filter. Clean them both thoroughly--replace air filter if necessary. MAF feedback will be the biggest factor in the ECU maintaing your 14.7 AFR. Erroneous or erratic readings will provide too little or too much fuel.

K sorry, I just got back from vacation to THE DRAGON! I love that road.

I put in the new sensor friday night before we left sat morning, I also went ahead and replaced the sparkplugs. So now on the highway the car is perfect and will not throw any of those particular codes or any codes for that matter. I also switched back to the map with no disabled codes before i left, so i could see if i fixed the real problem.

Well now when i start up cold in the morning, within 10 sec the engine will now throw both the p1152 and the p1153 codes. If i reset the ecu, i never see them again till the next morning or possibly if i'm lucky the morning after that. I have no clue why it is doing this now. Brand new spark plugs brand new front o2 sensor and the car is running really really great.

i'm running a catless invidia downpipe on my 2006 wrx. The uppipe on the 06 contains no cat either. And i am protuned.

any insight to what is happening to me now?

the only thing i can suggest is hook up a wideband and see what ur AFR's are. If too lean, it will burn out O2 like mine with Cobb OTS map.

the only thing i can suggest is hook up a wideband and see what ur AFR's are. If too lean, it will burn out O2 like mine with Cobb OTS map.

I'm having the p1153 problem with new headers and the cobb OST map. I don't buy that the combo is burning the sensor. The reason is, I have an EGT gauge right out of the #4 cyl pipe. full stock it would read 1400-1500f. OTS stg 2 map would read 1400-1500f. post headers on the OTS stage2 map it would read 1200-1300f. so stuff is actually cooler in there due to the fact the headers cool faster since I don' thave the under carriage cover and the headers aren't shielded.

if I'm wrong, somebody feel free to tell me so. I'm about to replace the o2 sensor.

I'm having the p1153 problem with new headers and the cobb OST map. I don't buy that the combo is burning the sensor. The reason is, I have an EGT gauge right out of the #4 cyl pipe. full stock it would read 1400-1500f. OTS stg 2 map would read 1400-1500f. post headers on the OTS stage2 map it would read 1200-1300f. so stuff is actually cooler in there due to the fact the headers cool faster since I don' thave the under carriage cover and the headers aren't shielded.

if I'm wrong, somebody feel free to tell me so. I'm about to replace the o2 sensor.

my guess is that your egt's are lower with the ots map because you're running richer than when you were stock. if your front o2 sensor went out, it could've sustained damage when you were swapping the exhaust manifold.

and why are you not using your undercarriage? don't you want to protect your brand new exhaust manifold?

my guess is that your egt's are lower with the ots map because you're running richer than when you were stock. if your front o2 sensor went out, it could've sustained damage when you were swapping the exhaust manifold.

and why are you not using your undercarriage? don't you want to protect your brand new exhaust manifold?

actually what i said was:
stock: 1400-1500
TBE + OTS map: 1400-1500 (no change)
TBE + OTS map + headers: 1200-1300 (-200F drop)

as for why the under carriage thing isn't on...good question. the guys at the shop didn't put it on, I saw it in my trunk. I figured they had clearance issues. I can put it back anytime. but regardless...a lot of people have told me to replace the o2 sensor. that's what I'm going to do. However I'm not sure if I'll keep the maddad headers or go back to the stocker manifold. this thread along with this one

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518806&highlight=P1153

makes me think something f'ks up the sensor given quite a few people had this happen. either the manifold inner coat, the increase flow, or the install procedure kills it. I was just pointing out that the theory that the sensor is being "burned" by increased temperatures from lean burning is not consitant with the egt data I have. As I said, I was runing 200f higher temps even in stock than I am with the aftermarket manifold and I got the code regardless.

if the thing were $50 I'd have bought 2. but at nearly 200 per sensor...I don't know if I want to chance it one more time. oh well. I'll be sure to post the results.