Just thought I'd help out those fellow Subies looking for a good inexpensive boost gauge (like I was) and install instructions. I went with the Autometer SportComp 2 1/16" gauge, with mounting cup. I think the polished aluminum and black go well with the interior. You can get these at www.jegs.com for $41.99 (part number 105-3301) and $12.95 (part number 105-2204) respectively. You will also need some brass parts (a brass T and two 1/4" brass nipples) which you can find at Napa auto parts stores for around $5, and probably most other auto part stores.

I used the install instructions for the similarly mounted Subaru factory gauge:
https://ssl.autocenter.net/webparts/acatalog/page1.html

See this thread (http://www.impreza-rs.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40218) for more info on the brass parts needed. And here's another page (http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/gkg3/wrx2.html) with some good install info.

Here's a good page for mounting information (http://www.oz.net/~sleeping/webboost.html). I didn't have any luck with heavy duty 2 sided sticky tape or industrial strength velcro, so I opted to mount it with screws.

Finally, some pics:
http://home.earthlink.net/~hofle/pics/Dsc00347.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~hofle/pics/Dsc00353.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~hofle/pics/Dsc00354.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~hofle/pics/Dsc00356.jpg

Happy boosting! :)

Andy

I prefer the ultralight. I need to snap some pics of it in my car once I have a permanent mounting location. They also make a matching EGT gauge.

http://store.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/ATM-4301_m.jpg

Looks great! Thanks for the good links too.

Looks great! Thanks for the good links too.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Tex-WRX&album_id=39333&image_id=0&courtesy=1

Except used the ultra light sport comp/ silver face

On the backside of the steering cover I used neoprene washers to keep from having a metal on plastic fit. The gauge is rock solid. I also used alled head/black bolts. I will finish the job with allens on the actual mounting ring. The black allens subdue and look cleaner than the flat head silver screws in the picture.

J

How can you guys stand the ugly base part of the cup? If it was nice and smooth and didn't show any mounting hardware I'd buy one, until then I'll wait and save some to get the Subie factory column boost gauge.

Originally posted by sorny
How can you guys stand the ugly base part of the cup? If it was nice and smooth and didn't show any mounting hardware I'd buy one, until then I'll wait and save some to get the Subie factory column boost gauge.

If you cruise on down to Home Depot and get some black bolts like Texwrex mentioned you won't really notice them. Asthetically, I think the gauge looks better than the Subaru part and doesn't have the lighting issues others have mentioned. Also, it is a whole lot less expensive than the Subaru part. I've got the Ultra-light model in my car; although, the Sport Comp is a closer match if you want it to look "factory"... The Ultra-light is really clean looking.

Jim

egg zacht lee


They can keep there high dollar gauge and cup. I used the extra money on other items (beer)and this not a show car.

Originally posted by Tex-WReX2
egg zacht lee


They can keep there high dollar gauge and cup. I used the extra money on other items (beer)and this not a show car.

Did someone say "BEER?" Yes, very good thinking.

Jim

I did the same thing with a VDO setup if you search TypeC has some good pics up. I think the aluminum autometer looks good but the Vision series VDO lights up much better at night. Looks very stock with the backlit numbers instead of the green ring o light autometer uses. The VDO cup is nicer than autometers' too. Cost me about 50 bucks for the cup and gauge from summit racing

ryan

Ryan, I agree with you there. The lighting at night is poor on the autometer. I did not know that vdo had illuminated numbers.

I daily drive with the G-tech too :)

here is the VDO info:

Gauge: VDO-150121
Cup: VDO-240016
Both gauge and pod was only like $48

http://www.cottrell.100megs6.com/CJB/interior/gauges.jpg http://www.cottrell.100megs6.com/CJB/interior/gauges_night.jpg
http://www.cottrell.100megs6.com/CJB/interior/interior1.jpg

I like the look of the VDOs but I wish they had a boost/vacuum gauge with a narrower range: I dont think my car is ever going to see 18psi of boost, let alone 25psi:rolleyes:

That VDO looks very nice. I like the illumination better than the autometer.

Originally posted by sorny
How can you guys stand the ugly base part of the cup? If it was nice and smooth and didn't show any mounting hardware I'd buy one, until then I'll wait and save some to get the Subie factory column boost gauge.

I agree that it is not the prettiest mount, but for $12, what can one expect? Mine cost about $60 total from Summit. It is a hella lot better than the overpriced Subaru Gauge. I do like the VDO lighting much better though. I chose to go with SS screws ecen though they are a little too visible. I wonder if there is some way to cover the whole ugly "foot" with some sort of formed cover?

For more pictures see www.tango-rio.com/wrx.htm

Dude, what's that christmas tree thing on your not-a-cupholder bit?

Originally posted by Coati
Dude, what's that christmas tree thing on your not-a-cupholder bit?

No man, that is my A/F ratio meter. A custom installation :D

http://www.imprezd.freeservers.com/mods/stealth1.jpg
http://www.imprezd.freeservers.com/mods/stealth2.jpg

Thanks a bunch guys... I was really starting to aggrevate over what to do about a boost gauge. I didn't really think much about doing a cup mount until I saw the pics.
I went with the VDO gauge and Cup since night visibility is a must. ~$52.00 delivered UPS ground is a VERY good solution considering I was thinking I'd be paying at least $100 for the pod and the guage and be forced into buying multiple guages as well.
This needs a link with the mods link at the top of the forum. GREAT INFO!!!
:cool:

Doesn't get much cheaper or cleaner than this.

But, what would I do without my clock? ;)

-Mark

Here's my homemade gauge stand. No bolts, screws, Velcro or adhesives used. A thin sheet of plastic built into the stand is wedged between the dash and forward molding. Holds it great.


http://www.knology.net/~robys/boostnoflash2.jpg

Sorry bout the blurry pic.....but you get the point:)

I think i inspired someone..

Damnit! i just ordered my autometer guage and it was shipped yesterday, now people are telling me that the VDO looks and lights up better?

INFORMATION I COULD HAVE USED YESTERDAY! :)

jason

The Autometer lights up just fine (although my picture doesn't show it too well) and is perfectly visible at night. The VDO lights up the actual numbers while the autometer is more of a background light that illuminates the entire gauge.

Originally posted by Imprezd
I think i inspired someone..

Your not talking about me are ya?:lol:

I did this 2 months ago. I did my buddy's about 4 months ago. My way is competely reversible back to stock. I drilled no holes and cut none of the OEM part. Plus it has a matching baffle (for lack of a better word).

how did you do it without drilling holes?

jason

Metoo and Imprezd used the space in the dash board where the clock was (Look at their posted pictures). They did not need to drill or cut (I guess) anything. It looks like a decent idea, but I much prefer the cup type mount as I did and the other folks who posted about their Autometer and VDO gauges. Of course, that is just my opinion, to each his own.

Cheers,

Manuel

Originally posted by TypeC
here is the VDO info:
Gauge: VDO-150121
Cup: VDO-240016
Both gauge and pod was only like $48

My guage arrived today and the cup is due tomorrow... However I discovered that the guage doesn't come with the hoses or connectors you need to hook it up. I found out the hard way that you needed to order the hose kit, or come up with one of your own.
Summit had this kit marked as "Not Available" when I tried to order it. I checked with the VDO site and found that NAPA were also authorized dealers and managed to find it by searching their website for the part number and ordering it there.

Tubing/Connector Kit: VDO-150851

Imprezd and Metoo,

So, whats the trick to secure the gauge there? I'd like some info and specifics, please!

yep i got the tube kit at a NAPA (my dads!). I was rumaging around the shelves and just happen to find it. I don't remember the napa number but it was a Balkamp part number, probably like 7xx-xxxx. It was pretty cheap from what I remember. I bought a 1/4 inch platic vaccum tee, a piece of 1/4 hose and an additional brass fitting to adapt it to the tubing.

Ryan

Well Metoo's setup is slightly different than mine.. but my friend who actually put this together used some epoxy to secure it..

Ummm... it was so that we could temporarily install a boost gauge.. but what i we really are going to do is fit 3 gauges in their.

Since only the top part of the gauge... which is most useful is all we need.

After looking at the VDO cup/gauge I think it looks the best. At first I didn't want my car to look any different then stock stuff, but lately I've not been as picky. :) So the VDO gauge/cup combo needs a tubing kit too eh? Still not a bad price. Guess I should hold off on that radar detector for a little while longer :)

I just bolted my vdo gauge and cup to the steering column cover. That way you don't see any mounting hardware. By the way, does anyone with the vdo gauge here a cricket, vibrating sound under slight throttle and before any boost shows up. I taped my nylon tubing thinking something was vibrating but didn't help. My only other idea is to replace the nylon tubing with vacuum hose. Any have any other suggestions? Or an idea of what is vibrating?

Thanks,

Greg

i was thinking about direct mounting to the column but i like it sitting out there well outside the field of vision of my tach. no odd noises coming from mine. I'm amazed how responsive it is. the only other turbo gauge i'm familiar with is the stock one on my friends viggen and its not nearly as responsive. I can barely tap the gas and make the boost need jump well before the tach jumps. kinda cool

ryan

Just finished ordering a set for a friend. Hopefully it gets here before the weekend. Then I'll capture the install.

Any recommended places to tap a line for this? I'm looking to not get the 'spike' when lifting off the throttle.

Thanks,
Mike2000GT

I actually put a brighter bulb into my autometer gauge (same one you have) and it works considerably better. The green bulb cover made the gauge a bit dimmer than my stock ones, so I got the higher wattage bulb and now it is MUCH brighter...

infact, I run with the dimmer 3 clicks down from MAX and its a perfect matchup. I dont know the wattage of the stock bulb or the one I put in. The one I put in was a spare from my S2000's side marker light... it looked the same physical size and shape, so I tried it.

IIRC, the S2000 side marker light is 22W, but I am not positive. I don't know what the stock autometer bulb wattage is. So, ideally, a bulb inbetween the stock autometer bulb and the 22W would be perfect :)



Originally posted by megatron
The Autometer lights up just fine (although my picture doesn't show it too well) and is perfectly visible at night. The VDO lights up the actual numbers while the autometer is more of a background light that illuminates the entire gauge.

I just got done doing the same thing as Imprezd and metoo, except that I used zip-ties and my gauge is off center (to the left, closer to the driver) and canted just a slight bit towards me (the driver).

It was a snug fit, but since I didn't use any glue there is no mess... No rattles, and the gauge works as before.

I didn't do anything to secure the clock harness, but I think its not going anywhere that it can't be pulled back into the correct place.

About the only thing now that is "wrong" with my install is that you can see the light cord to the right of the gauge... its barely visible, and I might just live with it for now... eventually, I'd like to get some Greddy 60mms in a DEFI pod... but thats some extra money that I don't have to spend at the moment (gee, why did I go back to college?!) :D

Thanks for a great idea. It works well, and its low profile for sure... ME LIKES! :D

Now, I need to install that clock and in/out thermometer somewhere and I will be all set...

Best site to buy VDO gauges from?

www.summitracing.com

I'm planning on installing mine on the weekend... I can't wait... I'll try to document mine as well for future reference.
Probably the next guage will be either A/F or EGT or both.... Then MBC time :D

Just out of curiosity, are there any disadvantages to buying a less expensive gauge? I'm thinking about buying a column mounted triple gauge pod... And getting turbo, egt, and perhaps oil pressure, or something like that (not really sure of the 2 other ones, but definitely turbo)... But that's a lot of money if i remember, somewhere around 700 bucks for that stuff...

Any input would be appreciated...

Got my Blitz Dual TT DC installed this weekend!

Everything works perfectly, but I got lazy and tapped the boost gauge just outside the wastegate, so I'm getting yucky boost readings.

I'd like to tap at the BOV, but the 'T' that came with the TT is nowhere near the right size.

Does anyone have number as to the inner diameter of the pressure hose coming from the BOV so I can get a proper fit 'T' to go right there?

Originally posted by wop138
Just out of curiosity, are there any disadvantages to buying a less expensive gauge? I'm thinking about buying a column mounted triple gauge pod... And getting turbo, egt, and perhaps oil pressure, or something like that (not really sure of the 2 other ones, but definitely turbo)... But that's a lot of money if i remember, somewhere around 700 bucks for that stuff...

Any input would be appreciated...

I suppose that a very low quality gauge will not work well or give you bad readings. I guess most any reputable manufacturer will not sell "bad" gauges. As far as I'm concerned, there are no disadvantages in buying less expensive gauges other than cosmetics or the lack of a "brand name". I think that the Subbie gauges are horribly overpriced. Save your money for better things. A reasonably price gauge combo (boost, F/A) will set you back around $100. The $700 that SOA wants for their set up will buy you a plug and play Unichip!!

Cheers,

Manuel

Well, I finished the install on my friends WRX this weekend. How come no one said it was going to be a PITA to remove the steering column cover? :rolleyes:

Anyway. This took a lot longer then I expected. Some of the issues I ran into were:

- Connectors for the guage [VDO] light - need 2 female quick connects
- Tap location. Ended up using the metal tube just behind the intake manifold (beind the altinator)
- going from the 1/8" nylon tubing supplied with the guage hose kit to the the 7/16" vaccume tubing.
- Guage light source. I wanted something that would work on the dimmer, but couldnt find anything easily accessable.
- Firewall passthrough. There was no way I was going to follow the freaking existing wiring, so I ended up using the AC condensation drain on the passenger side.

Its in and works great. I'm curious about the tap location and suggestions for a better location. (I didnt have to cut the original hose, just added a short length before the 'T'... so that was nice and safe.)

I've got to take pictures and post em next time I get up to Lancaster and see the car.

Any tips you guys have would be good for future installers.

Oh, I highly recommend Summitracing.com. I placed the order on Tuesday and had it by Thursday.

Mike2000GT

Yeh the top cover is a royal pain, I scratched my hands up pretty good pulling that biyatch on and off. Here's exactly what I did and used.

VDO gauge, cup, and tubing kit. 1/4" Vacuum T-connector, small piece of 1/4" hose, brass 1/4" hose to compression fitting adaptor. I got the gauge and cup from summit (was there the NEXT day!) and the rest from pop's NAPA store.

Next download the subaru column mounted boost gauge directions (https://ssl.autocenter.net/webparts/acatalog/page1.html). I tapped the vacuum hose and used the grommet illustrated here. Its pretty easy if you study the pics for a second.

First I cut the vacuum hose and installed the T. Then I attached my small piece of 1/4" hose to the outlet of the T, that goes to the adaptor, which compression fits on the white plastic tubing. Route the tubing through grommet on the front-of-dash (firewall, in the industry we don't say firewall, it emplies there may be fires :) )

Take apart the column as illustrated in the subaru instructions. You don't have to drop the lower part of the dash though. Assemble the gauge and dry mount it on the column. I iterated on this for a good hour or so before I liked the location. Then just drill the sucker. I mounted the cup of mine on an angle and had to notch the back of the cup to get the electrical wires out. The cup was designed only to to mount the gauge up at 6 or 12 o'clock.

For the electricals I cut a couple pieces of wire and soldered and heat shrunk them on the back of the gauge and ran the wires behind the radio. On the radio harness there is a plug that will supply dimmable power to the gauge. Someone posted the correct male plug for the harness but I just used a couple of spade connectors and wrapped it up in electrical tape.

Once the electricals are sorted stick the white tubing into the compression fitting and button that sucker up. Reinstall the top part of the column scratching up as much of the IP as possible. Oh wait skip that last part, that's just what I did.

Finishing touches were some wire loom around the tubing and electrical wires to make it all purty and wedging in a piece of black foam between the cup and column to dampen the cups vibrations from the canter-leavered mount.

Ryan

Anyway. This took a lot longer then I expected. Some of the issues I ran into were:

I guess you didn't read the instructions and reference links I posted at the beginning of this thread. :) That would've saved you a lot of trouble.

i was thinking about getting the blitz DTT with the built in boost gauge, what do you guys think?

ive heard that it is more accurate than the analong boost guage? is this true, would really appreciate some insight back.

thx

wrx0r

sorry, I haven't been keeping up with this thread.

I had 2 piece of platic that matched the color of the hatch. Each piece had a 90 degree angle in it. One piece was JB Welded to the underside of the lid. This piece was used to mount the gauge. My gauge used a squared U-shaped piece of aluminum that needed to be shorted in order to fit under the lid without having to cut the lid. The plastic was sandwiched between the gage and the aluminum. A hole was cut into the plastic to accomidate the light. The second piece of plastic was screwed an tiewrapped to the lid through the existing holes used to clip-in the clock. This provided for the gage trim. No doubt....it took some skillful Dremel work for me to get the trim so accurate.

I personally like this stealthy install, now so more than ever. I got pulled over the other day. I was let off with a warning. I hte cop had of seen a pillar full or gages, a ticklet would have definately been written. I plan to install a few more gages. Though I love the pillar look, I don'e want it for that very reason, plus you will get THAT many more challenges for street racing.

I did mine in a similar fashion, except using zip-ties...

I don't however have a surround yet... Also, in getting the ties nice and tight, the gauge actually pivoted a bit more towards the driver... It gives me a nice spot on view of the gauge...

now, just got to find a good place to stick my outside temp probe...

Originally posted by Wrx0R
i was thinking about getting the blitz DTT with the built in boost gauge, what do you guys think?

ive heard that it is more accurate than the analong boost guage? is this true, would really appreciate some insight back.

thx

wrx0r

"Accuracy" is relative, in my opinion. Every turbo will most likely boost differently.

Now, as far as I'm concerned, the ability to instantly glance at the readout and get numbers, not a needle pointing somewhere between two marks allows me to get back to the road and not linger on trying to determine what my gauge is reading.

Personally, go with the Blitz. I love mine!

Its interesting that you favor digital... I remember many years ago when the C4 Corvette came out, it was slammed for its digital dash...

Of course, the S2000 came out and the slams were minimal...

I guess times change... :)

I like both actually, but find that you can get a better sense of behavior (plotting the curve) with the analog...

If you look at a lot of digital displays, some are dampened so they don't constantly show every exact increment. For example, the S2000 speedo is digital and doesn't show every MPH if you slam the gas down. It will, of course read every digit if you drive slowly...

but rather than go 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9, it would just say 1-3-6-9
or something like that...
and the tach is a bar graph style...

I'd think peak boost numbers would be fine in digital mode, but I think to monitor the overall behavior, an analog serves the function better. It all depends what you want from your boost gauge... Since my boost is stock, I am more into watching the behavior...




Originally posted by AltF8


"Accuracy" is relative, in my opinion. Every turbo will most likely boost differently.

Now, as far as I'm concerned, the ability to instantly glance at the readout and get numbers, not a needle pointing somewhere between two marks allows me to get back to the road and not linger on trying to determine what my gauge is reading.

Personally, go with the Blitz. I love mine!

I agree with your point on monitoring the curve.

I guess I'm just not too concered about the way the boost acts, just how high it is. My gauge was primarily to allow me to install an MBC soon.

FYI, I found the VDO gauge, cup, and tube kit all at www.egauges.com. The prices are a little higher than Summit Racing, but they do appear to have all of the pieces you need for complete installation, instead of having to visit NAPA, the hardware store, etc.

I gotta say the VDO 150-121 looks like the cleanest of the bunch. This has been one of the best threads to date, especially for those of us who still hadn't made up our minds on boost gauges. I like the Defi setup, but Christ that's expensive w/ gauges and all. The VDO boost gauge / cup is clean and cheap.

Thanks for all the great info. guys!

thx altf8, i guess i got with the DTT then, need to kill 2 birds with 1 stone, since im kinda low on cash at the moment!!

wrx0r

Originally posted by Wrx0R
thx altf8, i guess i got with the DTT then, need to kill 2 birds with 1 stone, since im kinda low on cash at the moment!!

wrx0r

The DTT is a bit expensive (in my opinion), but worth every penny.

Hit 104 kPA (15.083 psi) today! w00t!

Exactly... What I find interesting (having the analog gauge) is the way the car will bleed boost at part throttle... maybe its a boost spike, I dunno... I can step on the gas like 3/4 way down and the gauge rushes to 11 or so, then drops back down to 7...

Its also fun to watch how the gauge sits at 0 almost as soon as the clutch is out, but it takes it a second to get moving into the positive boost range. I know its the car, not the gauge... But I think some of that is missed on the digital display...

However, if you are dialing in with an MBC, its great to have that exact reading known... :)

I may yet do a MBC in the near future... I know it works :)



Originally posted by AltF8
I agree with your point on monitoring the curve.

I guess I'm just not too concered about the way the boost acts, just how high it is. My gauge was primarily to allow me to install an MBC soon.

Originally posted by 2.0 guy
Exactly... What I find interesting (having the analog gauge) is the way the car will bleed boost at part throttle... maybe its a boost spike, I dunno... I can step on the gas like 3/4 way down and the gauge rushes to 11 or so, then drops back down to 7...

Its also fun to watch how the gauge sits at 0 almost as soon as the clutch is out, but it takes it a second to get moving into the positive boost range. I know its the car, not the gauge... But I think some of that is missed on the digital display...

However, if you are dialing in with an MBC, its great to have that exact reading known... :)

I may yet do a MBC in the near future... I know it works :)

You're right, the action of the digital is...more subdued. That, and there is the delay that is inherent in the digital display that wouldn't be there in an analog gauge.

Oh well, I still enjoy watching the numbers climb! Plus, the Peak Hold function of the DTT is wonderful!

BTW, which MBC are you going with? :)


Originally posted by AltF8


You're right, the action of the digital is...more subdued. That, and there is the delay that is inherent in the digital display that wouldn't be there in an analog gauge.

Oh well, I still enjoy watching the numbers climb! Plus, the Peak Hold function of the DTT is wonderful!

Probably the TurboXS HPBC.

Personally... I hated the S2000's digital dash... When I test drove one I found it very difficult to judge what the car was doing based on the display.

Analog guages allow you to glance and assess not based on numbers, but on needle position. We learn very quickly what the good and bad needle postions are and you can acutally process that faster than reading a number.
With a digital gauge, you have to interpret that number EVERY time you look at the display... which is why a lot of digital displays incorperate some sort of graph as well as a number.

Race cars typically have digital displays due to space considerations and the amount of data that the driver needs to track.

I think Honda's goal with the S2000 was to convey the race-car feel, hence the minimalist interior...

All in all, the dashboard in the S worked ok for me, because I knew that 3000rpm in 6th gear was ~55mph, the max speed-limit in my neck of the woods... Actually, most of my driving is on 35-45 mph roads...

I found the bar-graph tach to be a lot of fun to watch, as it was also the most dominant gauge in the dashboard...

For the most part, I drove the S2000 by ear and hardly ever needed to look at anything but the fuel and temp gauges... That was one car that I truly was connected with.

In fact, I think Mugen or some tuner company offers a replacement cluster for the S2000. It mimics a motorcycle, so the speedo is still digital, but the tach is a true analog tach...

Originally posted by TempestX
Personally... I hated the S2000's digital dash... When I test drove one I found it very difficult to judge what the car was doing based on the display.

Analog guages allow you to glance and assess not based on numbers, but on needle position. We learn very quickly what the good and bad needle postions are and you can acutally process that faster than reading a number.
With a digital gauge, you have to interpret that number EVERY time you look at the display... which is why a lot of digital displays incorperate some sort of graph as well as a number.

Race cars typically have digital displays due to space considerations and the amount of data that the driver needs to track.

Originally posted by TurboRex
By the way, does anyone with the vdo gauge here a cricket, vibrating sound under slight throttle and before any boost shows up. I taped my nylon tubing thinking something was vibrating but didn't help. My only other idea is to replace the nylon tubing with vacuum hose. Any have any other suggestions? Or an idea of what is vibrating?

Thanks,

Greg

This is something thats been discussed a lot at vwvortex. It seems that VDO gauges aren't terribly well dampened, and you get that vibrating noise under certain conditions. If you use rubber tubing, you can just leave a few extra feet of it to absorb most of the vibration, or you can install a small fuel filter or aquarium air check valve. All these solutions are cheap and not too big a pain, especially considering how cheap (and reasonably accurate in my experience) the VDO gauges are.

BTW, another good place to buy VDO gauges is www.egauges.com . How much is it to buy the factory tri-gauge pod that goes on the dash? I really like the idea of that set-up, but not if it costs an arm and a leg as the dealership seems to like to charge for things. Thanks.

I decided to go with the VDO gauge also, based on their good reputation and the fact that the gauge numbers and light color were close to the stock Subaru gauges. After playing around with where to install it, this is what we decided:

http://home.carolina.rr.com/esmith/boost_gauge.jpg

I want to clean it up a bit by painting the bolt black, and wrapping the tube and wire with black spiral covers, but otherwise it looks and works great.

Installation was pretty straightforward, but you HAVE to download the Subaru gauge installation instructions (https://ssl.autocenter.net/webparts/acatalog/page1.html) before getting started. Read them. Memorize them. Refer back to them often.

The gauge light taps into a plug behind the radio:

http://home.carolina.rr.com/esmith/radio_back.jpg

And this is where we teed off for the vacuum line:

http://home.carolina.rr.com/esmith/tee_point.jpg

The parts used were:
Gauge 150-121
Cup 240-016
Tube Kit 150-855
Bought from http://www.nhspeedometer.com for about $45.

As some others have mentioned, the gauge does occasionally jump around at low rpm, almost like it's reading every intake pulse, but 98% of the time it's rock-solid.

HIH,
JAS

no offense guys but *** is up with the boost gauge in the clock area? it looks retarded in my honest opinion. i have a single gauge pod for my car for the a pillar which i will mount on wednesday when i have time, its off a 95 civic, got it from m y brother for free and it fits nearly perfect, i'll get pictures up so you guys can see how nice it looks. then you don't have to wait for the a pillars to come out and you can just get the ones made for the civics. almost perfect fit, yall should try it.

dennis

The parts used were:
Gauge 150-121
Cup 240-016
Tube Kit 150-855
Bought from http://www.nhspeedometer.com for about $45.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sounds like this may be the best route for me, since I'd rather not go chasing down parts, but is this everything I need?

I noticed in one of the above posts about the VDO that there was some splicing or extra parts you needed to connect it to the wiring behind the stereo. Was i just interpreting this wrong? Will I be good with just the parts above?

Thanks.

BTW Thanks for the great posts and photos guys.

Originally posted by Sandkicker
Sounds like this may be the best route for me, since I'd rather not go chasing down parts, but is this everything I need?

I noticed in one of the above posts about the VDO that there was some splicing or extra parts you needed to connect it to the wiring behind the stereo. Was i just interpreting this wrong? Will I be good with just the parts above?


IIRC, the only additional items we needed were the length of electrical cord, an electrical plug, and a 1/4-1/4-1/8 tee (we actually couldn't find a tee in that size, so we used a 1/4-1/4-1/4 and a reducer). I think everything else we used came from the three VDO parts listed.

Fortunately, Subura has a plug available behind the radio, so all you have to do is run your wire from the gauge to the stereo, crimp on a matching plug, plug it in, and put everything back together. Using this plug, the gauge will even dim/brighten with the rest of the instruments. :cool:

JAS

Some of us prefer gauges that don't look "tacked" on like the a-pillar cup... (Or, as the thread says.... cheap, CLEAN install)

I used to be a fan of the a-pillar gauge cup (used to have one in a previous car)... I agree it works well...

IMO, the stock clock is pretty worthless, so why not use the space for something more worthwhile...

If I ever get into modding the car, I can see getting a DEFI pod (I know, it too looks kinda tacked on, but less so than a 3 gauge a-pillar)...

By mounting the gauge in the clock area, you get a "INVISIBLE" install to anyone from outside the car. Let me tell you, in the car that I had with an a-pillar gauge... it DID get noticed. That is both cool and it can also be bad...

Plus, it was a little easier to wire the gauge in the center area (All I had to do was remove the radio for lighting and remove the clock pod... No mess of wires strewn across the dash above the feet... ;)






Originally posted by datdudedennis
no offense guys but *** is up with the boost gauge in the clock area? it looks retarded in my honest opinion. i have a single gauge pod for my car for the a pillar which i will mount on wednesday when i have time, its off a 95 civic, got it from m y brother for free and it fits nearly perfect, i'll get pictures up so you guys can see how nice it looks. then you don't have to wait for the a pillars to come out and you can just get the ones made for the civics. almost perfect fit, yall should try it.

dennis

Anyone using this cup from Scoobyparts.com?

Scoobyparts Cup (http://www.scoobysales.co.uk/acatalog/SCOOBYPARTS_COM_INTERIOR_4.html)

Are the VDO gauges you are using the "vision" series?
Does the needle actually light up??

Has anyone played with the omorimeter gauges??

BD

I would like to add a Boost and EGT gauge on my steering column. To those of you who have added one gauge to the column do you see any reason I couldn't add one to each side of it?

I just installed my boost gauge on the column and I see no reason at all why you couldnt do both sides. I was test-fitting my Autometer cup and it looked fine either side.

The only thing about the left side is it may obsure the low end of your fuel gauge so if you are the scatterbrained type like me you could find yourself on the side of the road somewhere. :p

Thanks for the feedback Xio,
I'm seriously considering the VDO meters. The meters seem to match the current instrument cluster pretty well and the price is right.:)

I believe this has been covered before, (sorry), but anything other than the Blitz model that will fit nicely as a PSI replacement into the Subaru Factory Column Mount Gauge cup? 43mm I believe is what I heard someone say here before?

Thanks

Originally posted by Bad Dogg
Are the VDO gauges you are using the "vision" series?
Does the needle actually light up??

Yes and yes. The green light of the Vision gauge is almost a perfect match for the stock gauge lighting.

JAS

Resurrected!

After reading this post thoroughly.. I'm still confused :rolleyes:

I have the VDO boost gauge, the tubing kit, and the cup.

Compiling all of the info I gather this is what I will need at NAPA autoparts:
- length of electrical cord (?)
- electrical plug (?)
- 1/4 / 1/4 / 1/8 T-connector (brass or plastic)
- 1/4" hose (small-piece)
- Brass 1/4" hose to compression fitting adapter
- 2 female quick connects.

Allright... I am an idiot when it comes to things like this. Initially I was just going to get a brass T connector and some zip ties after reading the sti boost gauge install instructions on scoobymod (I imagine same as wrx). In layman's language... or part #'s... can someone tell me what else I'll need?

Thanks in advance.

Resurrected!
....

thanks resurrecting this. I can hardly stomach the thought at paying at least 100 for a used stock gauge setup, and way more for a new one.

The VDO gear looks pretty good, but just one question.
Egauages lists several available boost gauges.

It seems like most people were using the 0-30 In Hg to 0-25 psi. Call me an idiot, but I don'tquite understand this gauge. When does the gauge go below 0 psi, or upwards in In Hg?

They also list a gauge with a 15psi range. Since the max stock boost is 13.8-14.2ish, would this gauge work and get more usable range (no boost modding plans)...
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult.asp?Type=Turbo_Boost&Series=Vision&Cart=

Thanks!

Can anyone scan me or direct me to the vdo gauge cup installation guide?

I have everything else set up but can't for the life of me find these instructions.