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grandmasterchan
09-07-2006, 11:25 AM
Cross posted here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15159598#post15159598 I apologize but am just looking for the most amount of help on this.

2002 WRX

Modifications:2.5 Shortblock, Mahle pistons, HKS GT2540r turbo, super megaflow intake, hks downpipe, uppipe, turboXS UTEC, sti v.7 TMIC, walbro fuel pump, STi pink injectors. 16psi, turbo XS manual boost controller.

Last year I had just a regular ej20 block and got a HKS GT2540r turbo kit installed with the above mods tuned by godspeed with a UTEC. After about two months I began to stall when the engine warmed up after 10 minutes of driving. At first I found that the 02 sensor on the intake was loose so I tightened that and voila, problem gone. However another month went by and the stalling came back. I got the car checked out by a shop and it was recommended that I have a compression test done. Compression test revealed that cylinder 2 was down to 97 (this is the cylinder on the driver's side closest to the headlight). All others are at 150.

Mechanic is thinking either burnt or bent valve. Ok so then I decided to upgrade to a 2.5 block with Mahle pistons. While everything was done I got the heads re-done as well and it was revealed that there was no bent or burnt valve. Put everything back together...

Still stalling after 10 mins of warm up. When cold it doesn't stall.

So in the last 2 days the following has been done to the car:

Replaced the gasket and cleaned the IAC. Also found that my intake was put on using the wrong thread sized screw thread size and the MAF was never fully tightened down so the right screw is now in. Now I have assumed that the MAF would have made a huge problem for idle. Got all of that fixed, Replace the IAC, MAF, MAP and went for a drive. It still dies like I didn’t fix anything. Vacumn is good according to the gauge, it seems though that the ECU seeing the wrong MAP voltage. It seems like it cannot be a mechanical problem as all the mechanical items are new. It is possible it is a bad sensor and there is no code. Unlikely, but possible.

Please help as I have spent over $6000 in repairs this year already. Anythoughts would be appreciated.

cdvma
09-07-2006, 11:33 AM
The ECU does not rely on MAP for idle or cruise conditions. You can disconnect the sensor and it will still start up and be fine. It will throw codes tho and they are very instant.

Sounds like you might have a bad coolant temperature sensor. There are corrections in the ECU that depend on coolant temperature. Can you log the water temp and see any abnormalities?