OK, this is figured out now. Hopefully the scematic helps out someone else if the future.

I am doing an istall of the DIY Boost referenced sprayer system. Here is what I have figured out, with some awesome help.

Stock Scematic (http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/aboothman/Car/stock.jpg)

Boost Switch with Stock STI Sprayer (http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/aboothman/Car/togglejdm.jpg)

My Custom WRX Setup (http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/aboothman/Car/ICSprayerSetup.jpg)

bumP??

So I have reasoned that I only need a ground when the button is pressed, since there should be no signal while the button is unpressed. Once the button is pressed, current is allowed to flow to the relay, and then to the pump. Since the pump is grounded, all is fine.

So 3 questions now: Do the button(s) need a ground?

Does the relay need a ground, or will it also ground through the pump?

What happens to the current when the relay is off? Is there still draw on the battery?

In the original circuit (http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/aboothman/stock.jpg) the IC timer has a ground.

In the Stock Circuit + JDM Switch (http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/aboothman/togglejdm.jpg) it is essentially the same. This is what I am doing, except I dont have the OEM tank, warning light and GROUND. I will probably add a time later on for the momentary IC sprayer switch.

I am sure I could use some basic electric theory education, but for now I just want to get this working. Thanks

bump.....

anybody?

bump for misspelling sprayer lol

so I wired it up both ways, and neither worked. Connectors are all good, fuses are good, switches work. What am I missing?

I think part of the problem is that the links in the first post aren't working so people can't figure out what you're trying to accomplish...

ya I just fixed the link, and I am working on getting an actual picture to show.

I assume you saw my thread at: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=963893

not sure if that will help... awaiting your pics.

ya, that and Wolfplayers threads are what started this whole mess :)

I have followed your scematic as close as I can, but without the factory Spray Timer or tank, there are a few differences. They should be minor tho.

Try the photos now. They do not show in the thread, but they should be viewable if you click on the link.

bump for pictures...finally!! :D

bump!!!

Bump for taking my pictures down. Don't link to my pictures. It eats up my bandwidth. Remove the direct picture linking (and just use a link) or else I will remove them for good :)

t

wow, helpful bunch around here :rolleyes: Pictures down

Ok, first of all WolfPlayer is correct, it is not proper to hotlink to images on someone's site without permission since you are using their bandwith.
However, in this case looking at the links it appears that aboothman has copied the pics and is hosting them on his photobucket album which is fine. So, I don't think there is a problem here.

wow, helpful bunch around here :rolleyes: Pictures down

I outlined everything that I know in my post. So, I can't be anymore helpful than I have already been. Excuse me for asking you not to waste my bandwidth. It doesn't hurt you to just put up a link to my pictures instead of displaying them.

t

I have been having host issues. They are fixed (new host). Sorry for the bandwidth use...

My main question is this:

Are pins 3 and 5 negative or switched posative? Everyone seems to use them for different things. What about pin 1?

Do I need to ground the switches, or does the illumination ground take dare of this?

Does the relay need to be grounded, or will the pump ground be sufficient once the relay is active?

I am somewhat unclear on exactly what you have hooked up. You have posted a few diagrams now and I can't really tell exactly what your wiring represents at this moment in time. Without looking at what you've got (and also a description of how you want the system to operate), I can't really help.

Maybe I am developing Adult-ADD or something, but I've been looking at this post every time you bump it and I just must be missing something because I haven't the foggiest idea how to help...

I do not have it hooked up at the moment. The 2 scematics are what I have pieced together....incorrectly it seems. Doesn't help that my multimeter is broken....

Anyway, what I am going for is essentially the same as Wolfplayer and your setups. My trouble is that with a WRX I do not have the spray timer, level lights, ect, so part of the stock circuit is missing. This means I have to use either pin 3 or 5 on the switch to signal the relay. My 2 scematics are different methods of doing this.

I am just mixed up because of Subaru's use of switched ground citcuits, and the fact that I do not know whether the Yellow /Red or Red/White wires are posative or negative.

*edit apology to WolfPlayer...I have had a crappy day. First was the post office, second was the lazy idiots at the auto parts store, and finally was computer troubleshooting for a friend. Throw in the fact that the solution to something simple (this project) is eluding me. All I need now is for some telemarketer to call so I can relieve some stress!!

well, all the timer does is keep it spraying for a moment AFTER the triggering condition (momentary switch, boost switch, whatever) is turned off.

lemme draw you a diagram of how it SHOULD be hooked up... gimme a few minutes.

What components do you have, exactly?

-Water Pump
-Momentary Switch
-JDM Switch
-Bosch type Relay

?

Stock STI Momentary switch
JDM Auto Switch
Boost Pressure Switch
Bosch 30 amp 5 lead relay (30, 85, 86, 87, 87a which is usually not used)\
Napa water pump with positive and ground

Basically what you wrote.

I realize the timer has a simple function. What is confusing is that there is 2 wires running into it from the switches. I assume Y/R is +12v switched from fuse 4, and R/W is negative...but these Subarus are confusing.

here you go:

Now, I am guessing you don't have the level sensor so ignore those portions of the diagram. The Relay replaces the Timer.
http://wrx.grapon.com/turbos/wolfspray/togglejdm_notimer.jpg

ok, I think I understand this fully now!!

To test my understanding:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/aboothman/ICSprayerSetup.jpg

The ACC fuse supplies +12V which means both the 85 and 86 terminals on your relay are hooked to +12V. It won't work like this. You need to replace the 85 terminal with a ground.

ok, it is in and working. Now to get the kinks worked out of the vacuum line that supplies the pump. Looks like I need to put in the check valve before the pump.

Oh, and thanks for fixing the title.