my journal can be seen here with lots of pics and some dyno video (exspecially the last few pages)(LOTS OF PICS) (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1055292

Finally! After months and months...ok over a year atleast, of waiting and researching the right kit for me.....i have the power that I have wanted. I bought the hour pre-dyno inspection of my car and learned some very key issues that my car had prior to tuning. The main issue was the Tial bov. In all my reasearching, i never found that the Tial is desined to stay OPEN at an idle. In a pull-through maf system...this is a big problem. Blow through or Speed density....not a problem. The main problem was going to be how the car idles...and part throttle driveability. they said they could get me the power....just not the driveability.

So I asked Dustin at PDXtuning, what was the fix? He had to cut the tial flange (that I had welded in) and weld in a plate with a nipple on the pipe...then he hooked up a brand new TXS RECIRCULATING Bov, and plumbed it in. The TXS Bov is designed to stay open at an idle also, but it is recirculating so its ok. I have ZERO, ZIP, NADA compressor surge.

Jarrad and his team hooked my car up to the dyno, calibrated my DTEC gear selection, and went to tuning. He was very curious about my intake setup to see how far it would throw off his previous 30r maps, and if it would create any turbulence. The result was EXCELLENT. An idle that is ROCK SOLID! and Jarrad seemed to like it as it was only a minor difference from previous tunes. The maf is placed farther from the turbo...which on the Perrin kit...is a great thing. (see pics) IAT's were about 8-10 difference from outside ambient temps.

on the first dyno pull on wastegate boost, i had about 298whp with a mid 10's AFR. Jarrad went onto tweaking with a handfull of pulls later: 358whp on 19psi pump gas. All dyno pulls in 5th gear. We agreed that this map was a nice safe, smooth map that I could run and we stopped there.

On to water/meth 50/50 injection

Jarrad worked his magic. My main goal was to achieve 400+whp on meth. He made 408 at 24psi. Jarrad upped the boost 1psi more....started to make a 5th gear pull and OH SNAP!!! clutch let loose. Too much torque when the boost hit. That's the end of dyno tuning.

Onto the test drive: it was wet out....it was raining. This car is WICKED! It will break the tires loose. Jarrad said the car had a problem though.....a TRACTION PROBLEM....IN 3RD! NO JOKE! Could we have gotten more out of the car. YES! But, my pistons are my friend for now. ;) Oh....eventually I will call PDX to see about an upgraded clutch...so Jarrad can get me some more whp and wtq :p

The car is everything I ever wanted. We had ZERO problems tuning. The car was flawless. Idle is SOLID...and I have a grin, from ear to ear. :D

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/modaddict/IMG_0664.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/modaddict/XMG_0921.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/modaddict/XMG_0918.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/modaddict/Ryan_P.jpg

I want to say and extra special thanks to the professionals at PDXtuning for their solid customer service, support, and excellent job of tuning by Jarrad. it has exceded my expectations in every way. Thanks Forrest for letting me bug you with the countless phone calls. Thanks Dustin for hooking me up with my new bov situation that solved some key issues. Thanks Jarrad for the tune! And to everyone else that helped out at PDX and on NASIOC....you know who you are.

Very nice setup! I'm glad everything came out the way you wanted it, looks like PDX did a nice job.. Next up you need to get some speedo pulls in 3rd and 4th, and also get to the 1/4 ASAP ;).. I'm glad that you like it though, take care of it and enjoy!!

i call for a few 3rd gear pulls on video... I want to see this thing letting loose!

thanks steve!


I want to get some speedo pulls on video. That will be a project soon....when the roads aren't snowed/iced over.

.... a handfull of pulls later: 358whp on 19psi pump gas. All dyno pulls in 5th gear. We agreed that this map was a nice safe, smooth map that I could run and we stopped there.

On to water/meth 50/50 injection

Jarrad worked his magic. My main goal was to achieve 400+whp on meth. He made 408. Jarrad upped the boost 1psi more....started to make a 5th gear pull and OH SNAP!!! clutch let loose. Too much torque when the boost hit. That's the end of dyno tuning.

Clarification request:

Are you saying that you have 408whp on a 20psi max tune?

ohhh....sorry...

no its 24psi. I will edit.

ohhh....sorry...

no its 24psi. I will edit.


Ahhh. That makes more since. I have pretty much the same mods. I'm still trying to decide if I want to use 100% denatured alky or 50/50.

Have fun with the car!

Nice setup, I did the same thing with the intake.

Nice setup, I did the same thing with the intake.

Thanks jay.

you're one of the people that helped me out too :p

I knew I had seen the intake setup on here...but didn't know where. So it may have been yours.

<-------sorry about the compression numbers...best of luck with whatever you decide...make sure to let us know! :)

No problem, I never even thought of using a 15 degree elbow on the IC tubing to avoid squishing the intake, nice job with that :)

My car made it 10k miles with the 35r, a lot longer than I expected. Still not sure what I'm going to do about the rebuild, I have a tendency to let my projects snowball, so it could get interesting.

Nice setup, I did the same thing with the intake.

Sorry for being a noob, but why all the bends in the intake? Not sure if something is in the way up near the headlight since there aren't any full engine bay pics, but couldn't it have sat up near the headlight with straighter piping? Or did it have something to do with the MAF? Just trying to learn, never seen an intake done like that before.

Sorry for being a noob, but why all the bends in the intake? Not sure if something is in the way up near the headlight since there aren't any full engine bay pics, but couldn't it have sat up near the headlight with straighter piping? Or did it have something to do with the MAF? Just trying to learn, never seen an intake done like that before.

If you look at the perrin intake...either search on here or www.perrrinperformance.com , the maf placement is far from ideal. What some tuners have run into is the bigmaf placement in that kit can cause the turbo to suck too much air (as I understand it...someone correct me if im wrong) when the turbo is spooling down. this may cause a turbulence issue in the maf housing too....basically throwing false maf information to the processor. it can cause you go to rich (i believe) and the car can have idle issues and stalling issues.

My plan was to build a CAI for this kit....but to keep it 3" in diameter the whole way. I could not do that, without hacking the crap out of my inner fender. So I put my 90* bends there...to move the maf farther from the turbo. This also put the maf housing not in the line of heat from the valve cover. (I was told that the heat from the valve cover area is an issue to...since the bigmaf is metal = heatsoak the maf housing)

thats basically why i did what I did.

what does a stock sti do on this dyno?

If you look at the perrin intake...either search on here or www.perrrinperformance.com , the maf placement is far from ideal. What some tuners have run into is the bigmaf placement in that kit can cause the turbo to suck too much air (as I understand it...someone correct me if im wrong) when the turbo is spooling down. this may cause a turbulence issue in the maf housing too....basically throwing false maf information to the processor. it can cause you go to rich (i believe) and the car can have idle issues and stalling issues.

My plan was to build a CAI for this kit....but to keep it 3" in diameter the whole way. I could not do that, without hacking the crap out of my inner fender. So I put my 90* bends there...to move the maf farther from the turbo. This also put the maf housing not in the line of heat from the valve cover. (I was told that the heat from the valve cover area is an issue to...since the bigmaf is metal = heatsoak the maf housing)

thats basically why i did what I did.


Ah, I see now, thanks for explaining that. I've heard of the MAF issues as well, just don't know a whole lot about it to know/recognize the ways around it.
Nice setup, looks very clean and professional. Congrats on all you've done with the car!

lol @ the heat-wrap on the post-intercooler pipes

That stuff has a way way way lower thermal reflectivity than polished aluminum. It's, ironically, probably INCREASING intake temps, rather than the opposite. :lol: (at least not helping much)

I'd suggest wrapping it in some aluminum foil. That will prevent it from absorbing thermal radiation so readily as shiney aluminum foil is an extremely good thermal reflector. :)

lol @ the heat-wrap on the post-intercooler pipes

That stuff has a way way way lower thermal reflectivity than polished aluminum. It's, ironically, probably INCREASING intake temps, rather than the opposite. :lol: (at least not helping much)

I'd suggest wrapping it in some aluminum foil. That will prevent it from absorbing thermal radiation so readily as shiney aluminum foil is an extremely good thermal reflector. :)

Thermo-tec aluminized heat blanket FTW :)

And I think that some of the heat soak problem also comes from having the filter directly behind the radiator. You're pretty much guaranteed 160f+ inlet temps with the air filter sitting there.

lol @ the heat-wrap on the post-intercooler pipes

That stuff has a way way way lower thermal reflectivity than polished aluminum. It's, ironically, probably INCREASING intake temps, rather than the opposite. :lol: (at least not helping much)

I'd suggest wrapping it in some aluminum foil. That will prevent it from absorbing thermal radiation so readily as shiney aluminum foil is an extremely good thermal reflector. :)

I have tested in the summer when it was 100 degree's out with my laser temperature gun. The heat wrapped helped cool the pipe over 15 degree's when I was running the stock turbo. If you look in my jounal....you will also see that I have 2 36" long pieces of the thermotec laceup wrap that needs to go on the cold side charge pipe too.....


...BTW, these pipes are polished stainless...and that pipe got significanly warmer when running over the turbo. I am positive it helped. But, the thermotec laceup wrap FTW!

what does a stock sti do on this dyno?

I have absolutely no clue. PDX would have to answer that.

In the packages: 2 rolls of heat wrap for the up/downpipes and 36" pieces of thermotec lace-up heat wrap.
Now I just need to go put them on.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/modaddict/IMG_0325.jpg

Thermo-tec aluminized heat blanket FTW :)

And I think that some of the heat soak problem also comes from having the filter directly behind the radiator. You're pretty much guaranteed 160f+ inlet temps with the air filter sitting there.

Jarrad and I were talking about installing a splitter or a dam inbetween the engine and maf housing....to help shield the maf from heat...and also try to aid the air flow through the hole in the inner fender right next to the maf housing.
We'll see what I can come up with....

I have tested in the summer when it was 100 degree's out with my laser temperature gun. The heat wrapped helped cool the pipe over 15 degree's when I was running the stock turbo. If you look in my jounal....you will also see that I have 2 36" long pieces of the thermotec laceup wrap that needs to go on the cold side charge pipe too.....


...BTW, these pipes are polished stainless...and that pipe got significanly warmer when running over the turbo. I am positive it helped. But, the thermotec laceup wrap FTW!

Even if it helps cool slightly, just wrapping some cheap aluminum foil over it would HUGELY increase the efficacy of the insulating effect. Unfortunately, most ceramics/fiberglass/etc absorb thermal radiation quite well, even if they don't conduct it well. So a thin coating of thermal reflector on the outside of ceramic/fiberglass/etc helps it insulate much better. :banana:

Polished stainless steel FTW! Much better at stopping intake heat-soak than aluminum piping and almost as good a thermal reflector, when polished. :) (yay for chromium content?)

-Adrian

p.s. Sorry for the double-posts earlier. My ISP has been doing annoying things lately. :rolleyes:

Sweet ride, Ryan! Congrats on an awesome tune!

Sweet ride, Ryan! Congrats on an awesome tune!

Thanks steve! :)

So after driving it for a bit now, do you think you would mind the little extra lag of the 35r?? Honestly after about the first week or so, i was thinkin that maybe i should have gone with the 35R, since i figured the lag of the 30R would have been like the 35r, i agree that most people all here worry WAY too much about lag, and even say the 30R is laggy, to me it's VERY responsive, you just have to be ~3.5K rpm and there's almost no lag.. But since this is my DD and i still have the stock block, and i only run pump gas for the time being unitl i get a utec, i figured the 30R would be a better choice since it's plenty of power for the stock block, and on pump gas the extra lag that the 35R makes wouldnt be worth the extra 20whp or so.. I'm trying to get the utec with SD soon so hopefully i can get a race gas map in soon.. I'm really glad everything worked out for you though, and that you got the turbo that suited your needs best.. meth injection looks to be getting bigger and bigger to, i've also been thinkin about that, how do you like your meth setup so far and what kit are you using?? IS it controlled through the AP or how is your set up??

So after driving it for a bit now, do you think you would mind the little extra lag of the 35r?? Honestly after about the first week or so, i was thinkin that maybe i should have gone with the 35R, since i figured the lag of the 30R would have been like the 35r, i agree that most people all here worry WAY too much about lag, and even say the 30R is laggy, to me it's VERY responsive, you just have to be ~3.5K rpm and there's almost no lag.. But since this is my DD and i still have the stock block, and i only run pump gas for the time being unitl i get a utec, i figured the 30R would be a better choice since it's plenty of power for the stock block, and on pump gas the extra lag that the 35R makes wouldnt be worth the extra 20whp or so.. I'm trying to get the utec with SD soon so hopefully i can get a race gas map in soon.. I'm really glad everything worked out for you though, and that you got the turbo that suited your needs best.. meth injection looks to be getting bigger and bigger to, i've also been thinkin about that, how do you like your meth setup so far and what kit are you using?? IS it controlled through the AP or how is your set up??



Steve,
The car (as far as lag...or boost thresh-hold goes) is 10x better than I ever thought. Reading on this crack house forum and iwsti, it sounds like this turbo was laggy. in reality, with the 6speed gears....this turbo is perfect. 1st gear is soo short that, not only can i get target boost, but it spins it up so I have target boost in all the rest.

2nd gear pulls like 1st used to...
3rd gear pulls like 2nd used to...
it's not the same for 4th like 3rd....but 4th is pretty wicked :devil:

The problem is right now, I am not used to driving a car regularly with this much power. I'm still running around on the 19psi water/meth map. Really, its my 24psi map...just turned down to 19psi target. The 24psi map is soo wicked, and the roads are constantly wet right now, that the car is very scary.

Im running the SMC water/meth 50/50 and i did not setup my controller for the "start boost" and "max boost" functions. Jarrad the tuner did. I told him that I trusted him for setting those and whatever he thinks is best. It looks like he set them for about 12lbs of boost when it starts, and 22lbs of boost is max spray. I will admit, I would have liked to have seen those nubers lower, but this way it keeps me from eating through the water/meth.

Jarrad said the reason he didnt start those numbers sooner, was that he wasn't going to come close to tuning me on the "edge" so the safety wasn't going to be an issue at the lower boost pressures.

Ask me about the 35r switch in a couple weeks. Im assuming the "boost thresh-hold is 700 rpm later, which would be awesome too. after 1st gear, you are raping almost anything on the street.

My clutch doesn't like me now, let alone if I go 35r :lol: Right now I am trying to save for a clutch, and some pistons, tgv deletes, and we'll see about 30r/35r.

Do you really need 475whp? :huh: This car is wicked at a bit over 400whp. :eek:

I guess I do. :devil:

congrats on the setup, glad you're happy

just wanted to chime in and agree with you guys about the gt30r
i was worried about all the internet gurus "lag" advice

let me tell you after driving around for like a week I also was contemplating swapping out for a gt35

same points you guys make- almost no lag if you're in the sweet spot....and around town its comfortable lugging around

cant wait to get the meth installed!!:devil:

Congrats. I also had a GT30R but I had to Dual Ball Bearing model for my GST. If I can remember correctly, I hit full boost around 3500rpm on a 2.0L. I really didnt mind the lag much considering most of the time I stay out of boost when cruising around town. But as soon as I hit the highway, thats when the fun begins. This turbo is really a highway BEAST. I might be looking forward to getting the same setup next year.

Question: does anyone know if they sell the GT30R Dual Ball Bearing model for the subarus? The dual ball bearing model would work great with our 2.0Ls.

lets see some of the exterior
:banana: pics pics pics:disco:

EDIT: NVM I found the link. Sweet ride.

^ Just FYI the GT30R's that we put on our subarus are dual ball-bearing..

Ryan: That's awesome, i'm glad you had no trouble and everything came out well.. The reason i brought up the 30r-35r comment is because i wanted to show people that they shouldnt be scared about lag like ALOT of people are on here.. Like alot of other people, i was a bit afraid of the lag of these rotated turbos because everybody says "it's gonna be alot laggier" but really they arent.. Boost threshold is later, but once you are ~3.5K, it spools as fast as a stock sti IMO, and we have the bigger hotside..
Good luck with your car though, Ryan. I hope it lasts a long time.. Are your plans to run it until you have a failure, or do you plan on swapping in a short block/rebuilding the motor before it fails??

^ Just FYI the GT30R's that we put on our subarus are dual ball-bearing..

Ryan: That's awesome, i'm glad you had no trouble and everything came out well.. The reason i brought up the 30r-35r comment is because i wanted to show people that they shouldnt be scared about lag like ALOT of people are on here.. Like alot of other people, i was a bit afraid of the lag of these rotated turbos because everybody says "it's gonna be alot laggier" but really they arent.. Boost threshold is later, but once you are ~3.5K, it spools as fast as a stock sti IMO, and we have the bigger hotside..
Good luck with your car though, Ryan. I hope it lasts a long time.. Are your plans to run it until you have a failure, or do you plan on swapping in a short block/rebuilding the motor before it fails??

It's as if people want to "punch it" in 4th gear at 30mph and 2k rpms....and expect to take off like a bat out of hell to pass someone. "maybe" with that itty bitty hotside of a vf39 you can get away with that, but if people would just realize that 1 downshift to 3rd, and this car will pull HARD at that speed/rpm. People must not realize the rpms they drive when they actually accellerate hard. With this turbo, it's nearly the same torque peak rpm wise, it just pulls all the way to redline (and beyond :devil: )

3.5-4.5k :lol: this thing is gonna plant you in your seat.

I'm still not sure the exact route im going to go. IF my clutch holds up, and my pistons, I believe my plan will to be to go a couple ways.

If everything holds up: i'll save for
-clutch
-cosworth heads/or dpr ported heads
-kelford cams
-pistons
-possibly rods
-crank mod
-oil pump
-and the supporting ishf like bearing/gaskets....etc etc.

If I have a failure....probably just a
-clutch
-pistons
-crank modification
-oil pump.

It's as if people want to "punch it" in 4th gear at 30mph and 2k rpms....and expect to take off like a bat out of hell to pass someone. "maybe" with that itty bitty hotside of a vf39 you can get away with that, but if people would just realize that 1 downshift to 3rd, and this car will pull HARD at that speed/rpm. People must not realize the rpms they drive when they actually accellerate hard. With this turbo, it's nearly the same torque peak rpm wise, it just pulls all the way to redline (and beyond :devil: )



eh, some people like me don't like to shift all the time. I think the 2.5l definately has enough off-boost lowend to be adequate for any reasonable street acceleration (I'm off boost almost 100 percent of the time)

I did have a chance to take a new z06 for a spin. That thing is in a totally different universe. Punch it at 1500 and it goes. Like a Vtwin motorcycle. I guess the awesomeness of lowend torque is one of those luxuries you don't realize unless you have copious amounts of it.

^^^thats the troof!

That's why I have a 383 SBC in my big 4x4 truck...

Stimo,

I hit 22.3 psi in 1st gear pointed slightly downhill :devil:

Im confident that if I was to go up the hill, i could have hit my target of 24psi. 1st gear is CRAZY! :D :huh:

^^haha, that's AWESOME!!.. Thing must pull like a mother.. Im sure on level ground or maybe even a slight uphill, you should have no problem hitting full boost in first gear.. I gotta get some datalogs when i get that damn cable and crap, and compare spool up to you, me with my MBC and you with the EBC to see what the difference is since our setup's are pretty similar.. So when you tested this, are you starting at ~1.5K rpm and just flooring it, or are you at 2K and rolling into the throttle, or what is your method when doing this test??

1.5k....the WOT. Yeah, and guess when to shift cause the rpm's climb uber quick! :eek:

It would be really neat to see the difference in a MBC and EBC, if any.

Do you really need 475whp? :huh: This car is wicked at a bit over 400whp. :eek:



dude it is like a high.... everytime i floor it, lol....

400whp, 420, 450, 480, and now 500whp and it still is never enough... after riding in a 800whp r32 makes the 500whp club feel lame... lol

:lol: :lol: :lol: ^^^^^

it's an addiction....

dude it is like a high.... everytime i floor it, lol....

400whp, 420, 450, 480, and now 500whp and it still is never enough... after riding in a 800whp r32 makes the 500whp club feel lame... lol

:lol: I went for a ride in a buddies r33 with twin 30r's on it, made low 800's Whp on low boost 100oct, it was NUTS, after riding in that car it really does make our cars feel weak ;) That was one of the only cars that was actually pretty scary to go in, it would break all 4 loose in 4th gear!!..