Whats the proper break in process for a 2.5l turbo motor? I have just rebuilt a motor and am almost ready to start up and drive her again... Can you help me?

:confused: :confused:

so isn't this the built motor form?

Doesn't anyone actually know about their motors?
:lol:

The idea that you should drive it really easy and never load the motor for run-in is a total load of crap. If you do this you run the risk of glazing the bores and thats a condition that can only be cured by re-honing the bores which of course is a total strip down and can lead to having too much piston-bore clearance.
Engines that get glazed typically have oil consumption problems and would be slightly down on compression.
For more on this do a search on google.

The correct way to run-in a new engine is to disconnect the wastegate linkage so the engine cant build boost. The wastegate will just be open all the time.
When driving the engine for the first few times you should bring the revs up to about 2500 and then floor it for approx 10 seconds (engine must be fully up to normal temperature). Then back off and allow the engine to run very lightly loaded for at least 30 seconds. Then repeat.
This floor it for 10 seconds should be in 4th gear so the revs dont build too fast. You dont want to rev it past about 5k. If you find the revs are building too quick select a higher gear.

The theory behind this is-
The floor it for 10 seconds applies combustion pressure to the top and rear of the ring2 causing them to apply pressure against the bore. This pressure cleans away oil film and forces the rings to bed in against the bore. It also starts the remove the lighter material leaft over from the fresh hone.

The theory behind the 30 second back off-
When you floor it in the 10 seconds you are creating friction, hence the rings get hot. The thirty seconds allows the rings to cool off and the oil to flow.

This procedure should be repeated over and over, more frequently when new and then upon regular intervals during the run-in period which should be about 1k miles. After 1k miles you can refit the wastegate linkage.
Oil should be changed after the first 100 miles as this is when the majority of material is being removed due to the rings bedding in. You cant change the oil enough during the engines first 5000 miles.
Some synthetic oils can be used for running in contrary to popular belief, however it must be the correct synthetic oil.
Some synthetics have a molecular structure which will allow them to be used for run-in ("polycracked formula" spelling?). Oils such as Mobil 1 are a definate no no! They wll not allow the rings to bed in due to the oil being so good it reduces the friction too much. If you are not sure about the oil use a mineral oil and change to full synthetic after 5000miles.

I have always used this method and have never had engines with oil consumption problems and good compression.

I also fill the engine just before initial fire up by pressure feeding oil into the block so all the oil passages, oil pump, oil filter , turbo, bearings are all full of oil. Then I quickly remove the external pressure feed system and fire it up. By doing this I normally see an instant build up of oil pressure, it normally comes up whilst cranking. This way I dont have to wait for oil to circulate and run the engine virtually dry on that initial fire up.