Video page 3 post 53.
Pics and mid tune numbers post 56


I've decided to stay with the 2.0 displacment. With what I'm spending in building the EJ205, I could have easily just bought the STi shortblock and been ANOTHER 2.5 WRX head hybrid making 500awhp. I'd rather sacrafice alittle power to keep the car a bit more unique. I'm still looking to make serious power with the car, I just realize it may take some trial and error and some wait time in the form of lag.

They thought this was funny:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/rex012.jpg
Damn domestic owners. ^^
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/rex014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/rex015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/engineinternalpics001.jpg
Cosworth Pistons 92.55mm
Eagle Rods
Cosworth Main/Rod Race Bearings
ARP Studs

The heads will be ported, have bigger valves, and run Crower S3 Cams.
Turbo will be in the GT30r flow territory but it will NOT actually be the 30r. Possibly Element tuning GT52, Blouch Dominator II, Slowboy Racing GT-13, APS SR56. Something along these lines but haven't set one in stone.

Everything run through a PPG straight cut 1-4 with synchros.

The block is of to Abacus Racing in Virginia Beach Va this coming week.

-Derf

why a fake gt30r ? whats wrong with the real one?

want to rebuild a semiclosed deck ej207 instead? i have one torn down i'd sell for $500. crank needs a micropolish but everything else appears to be in great condition.

It will be a semi-closed 205.

I want to keep stock location on the turbo.

you're converting the 205 to semiclosed? whats involved in that and what kind of small fortune does that cost?

actually not expensive at all. I got the idea from Kienan at All Aspects. All that is really being done is having dowel (sp?) rods pressed in. Just helps sturdy things up. If I can find a picture... I'll post it.

if i think of it i ll take a pic of the 2.2 that i had done for a block we were gonna use in kienans car
or you can go to i think its rigoli site they have one that they do

want to rebuild a semiclosed deck ej207 instead? i have one torn down i'd sell for $500. crank needs a micropolish but everything else appears to be in great condition.


you still have that block?

pinning the block is good but can lead to problems if thing over heat or get too cold. I had been debating on pinning a block of my own.
Regardless, give me a call sometime on my cell or at the shop as for a better turbo that I can probably get you on for a good price.
Seth (at abacus) does good work but has screwed up a crank for one of our customers. It caused the failure of 6 oil pumps, two which had toda gears in them. Lot's of time down and another complete gasket set.
They did fix the crank issue free of charge though. Just measure everything a half dozen times before letting it fly.

how much does the dowel pins cost installed at the average shop?

would it be more worth it to get her sleeved?

It seems to me, once you start upgrading the pistons you might as well get ones custom built for your block or custom fit for new sleeves. as I have heard stories about how off the shelf pistons are NEVER exactly the same size. The piston comapies simply do not have the same amout of money and technology as SUBARU does when they build everything @ the factory.

I always thought that for any reliable high HP build, installing new high strength sleeves was a must. Or do those pins take care of that? I have not heard much of this whole dowel pin technology... is it any good? how long has this been around?

I wasn't even worried with it until I saw Kienan had done it. I don't know how "new" of a technology it is, but it seems as tho it could help sturdy things up a bit.

This process I can't imagine is even close to as strong as sleeves are, but it doesn't come with the $1200 bill either. There have been a few 500+awhp EJ205 builds with less than I'll have into this motor, so I'm not too overly concerned with needing to have sleeves. All this is obviously dependant on the tune.

Please... I really don't want to hear about faulty labor from Abacus. I was a **** hair away from sending all this to Agile or some place of the sort. I'm paranoid enough as it is. I spent a good half hour talking to Seth about the build and he sounded confident about it. I'll surely be in close contact throughout the build.

As far as temperature and overheating. This condition can cause major problems to even the most built of motors. With everything envolved into this build... everything will most cetainly be monitored and data logged as best as possible.

-Derf

no, seth is the man...with all the work he has done for the shop (tons of it) and through personal builds and builds of my friend that is the only mistake he had made and he made it right. they get a thumbs up...still being the anal engineer, measure everything!!! you cover your own ass, make sure everything is right and save time if it isn't.
I had looked into having ababus build my block...pinning an EJ255 but since sourced a EJ257 and am getting it sleeved instead.

I can't wait to see how it turns out. I still think a twinscroll/dual entry GT30r with a .78 A/R hotside would be a screamer.

I have heard stories about how off the shelf pistons are NEVER exactly the same size.

ALL mechanical products are produced to a tolerance, and even at aerospace quality levels are never the same size. Many of the top end piston manufactures build pistons that hit their tolerances pretty closely but the right way to build a block is to buy your pistons and carefully measure each piston (more than once). Mark each piston with its true size.

Next measure your block (at the same temperature you measured the pistons)

Note the cylinder sizes. Then consult with the piston manufacture regarding best running clearence to use. Note that different piston manufactures use different ways of specifying clearence. Some make a piston to a nominal size and then you add the specified clearence to that piston size for the bore size. Others include the piston clearence into their specs and if you tell them your cylinder has a bore of x.yyyy inches they will give you a piston sized to give proper clearance for that "exact" bore size.

Make sure you understand how your piston manufacturer does the clearence/bore/piston sizing thing for their pistons. Then make sure you engine machinist that bores and hones the block also understands the same info.

Then once all that is done, you selectively fit each piston to the bore you want to run it in. On some engines -- it is not uncommon for certain engine builders to run different piston clearences in different cylinders to account for the cooling characteristics of the engine. In many cases this involves running perhaps .0005 inches more clearance in the rear most cylinders than the front since they typically run hotter.

Larry

wow thats good to know...the more I read up on everything here the more I don't think my machine shop really knows ***** about anything... If I ever have another engine built I'm definatly going to use a SUBARU specific shop thats knows exactly what our engines need. I know my shop does good work...but their guys are more like artists than machineists...

I can't wait to see how it turns out. I still think a twinscroll/dual entry GT30r with a .78 A/R hotside would be a screamer.$$$$$$$$$ I haven't even found anything of the like.

well, that's why I said drop me a line. I know what I can get it for and if I recall retail is around $1300.

Update.**

After cleaning the motor up and looking through everything, the machine shop found a crack in my left head (cylinder 4). There is a small crack from the spark plug hole going into/behind the valve seat. So... I'm off to Perry tomorrow to get a new, bare, head.

Turbo has been decided on. I bought a Green (small one). Not quite 30r flow territory, but I'll push it to see what it will do. Should be decent on 100 octance/meth.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/turbo002.jpg

Going EWG tho. I'm also going to try and use the TMIC I have and see how that goes. I'll eventually go with a FMIC... be interseting to see the difference.

cool. how much did u pick her up for? ^

950......

Parts added...

Crower stage 4 cams
Brian Crower valve springs and retainers.
Brian Crower valves, +1mm.
Mild port job on the heads and shimless buckets.

I'm honestly thinking about ditching the Green for something a bit bigger. I'll probably go with it, see what it will do and then swap up if the power goals are not being met. I'm thinking the Green will be choked a bit at 8500rpm... especially with such a big cam. We'll see.

-Derf

if i were you, look into the ej207 shortblock...at least price it out.

im in the same boat. i love my 2.0, and wanted to keep a unique build. to have my 2.0 built to something worthwhile (forged + capable of *safely* revving to 8500rpm) it was gonna cost me ~ $3400 (including assembly, blueprinting and balancing, and modifying the crank for high RPM use)


i spent $900 for a v.8 EJ207 Spec C shortblock, that should easily take 450whp all day long and already has a double drilled and nitrided crank, with an AVCS oil pump that'll keep my car's oil pressure comfy @ 8k rpm

even if ya dont buy the motor, look into buying that nitrided crank. if nothing else, for peace of mind


what are ya gonna run for an oil pump? the uber rare 12mm? the shimmed EJ22T? the AVCS 10mm (im running this)?

the turbo WILL be choked @ 8500rpm...without a doubt. that's GT35R territory....but that motor will not last long @ 8500 without having the crank modified (which is ~ $500 in labor by itself)

good call on ported WRX heads. i ported mine, and they came out awesome. i didnt end up going w/ oversized valves (didnt see the benefit, given their cost + machine work). for the record im running Crower Stage2 cams w/ their 60lb single valvesprings and stock retainers (aftermarket retainers = titanium, and titanium retainers are *supposed* to be replaced somewhat regularly, whereas the stock stainless steel retainers will last forever)

jasper...that oil pump is the same as ANY other turbo subie except the dual avcs legacy

I still have a shortblock that would be better...

By the way those small thermal cracks are very common on the WRX heads, and many consider them as a given on a used head. Depending on your comfort factor you might want to consider just getting the combustion chamber glass beaded and thermal coated and re-use the old head.

Larry

I've got WAY to much money into parts already to switch up on the blocks. I didn't want the 207. I realize it is much more capable, but also already been done and more common. I haven't seen too many blazing fast 205 on the street.

I'll look into what needs to be done with the crank. I wasn't aware it would be an issue. What's another 500 in labor at this point...

I can't imagine that when this block is done there will be any OEM counterpart, JDM or USDM, that will be "better." I'm taking my time on this built and doing any and everything that can possibly be done to make it stronger and more reliable (outside of sleeving the block).

I'm going to run a shimmed pump.

I was NOT going to use that head... it would only take that seat letting loose to destroy 6k worth of motor. I already bought a brand new one.

I'll run whatever turbo that I need to to get me in the 450awhp range... If I don't need to rev that high and can spool decently... I wont, but the ability will be there. Only thing is I DON'T want to go rotated. Not an option. If I could find something inbetween 30/35r flow rates that would bolt up... I might consider that.

it seems its pretty hard to find a decent turbo that remains in the stock location... why is this? not enough room?

BTW...build sounds AWESOME!

you're looking at an FP Red to get in there with a stock location Fred

you're looking at an FP Red to get in there with a stock location Fred
That is a HUGE turbo... I haven't cross referenced it, but is it close to the 35r (I'll look)? Just off the top of me head and what I know about that turbo... I can't see spooling that thing in a reasonable fashion. I don't ahve a problem spraying to get a turbo spooled tho... I'll look... we'll see. I remember looking at the Blouch Dom III and it looked capable.

After talking with a few people I have decided to just throw the Green on and see where it will go. If it's not enough, swapping up wont be difficult. Maybe a GT13.

Jasper... thanks for the info on the crank. This wasn't even something I had thought about. The crank will be modifid accordingly. My engine builder is tryig to locate info on how these things are being drilled tho. Just the crank or rods and crank... straight through or angled? I guess I need to find a picture of a JDM crank vs a USDM one.

-Derf

jdm and usdm are the same...there is an entire thread on it...the way most of the billet cranks are being done is "straight" shot oiling...I'll have to take some pics for you...either that or come by the shop.

After talking with a few people I have decided to just throw the Green on and see where it will go. If it's not enough, swapping up wont be difficult. Maybe a GT13.

Jasper... thanks for the info on the crank. This wasn't even something I had thought about. The crank will be modifid accordingly. My engine builder is tryig to locate info on how these things are being drilled tho. Just the crank or rods and crank... straight through or angled? I guess I need to find a picture of a JDM crank vs a USDM one.

-Derf


contact Ron @ Axis

iirc its about ~ $500 to have the crank modified (and considering the amount of labor involved in doing so, $500 isnt all that pricey)

I really like the OP's direction on this build, i cant wait to see the outcome, I always thougth the 2.0 had more in it then what people gave it credit for. I guess i would say go with the FMIC. Keep up the good work. Lots of good idea's in this thread.

I really like the OP's direction on this build, i cant wait to see the outcome, I always thougth the 2.0 had more in it then what people gave it credit for. I guess i would say go with the FMIC. Keep up the good work. Lots of good idea's in this thread. I obviously believe the same. It is cheaper to go with the 2.5 short block and wrx heads. I will attest to that. BUt this fact does NOT mean that good power can't be made with the 205. It really doesn't even take much more than any other inline Honda motor would take. Just the time and funds to do so. Sadly, if this route was taken more often,... it wouldn't even be so expensive. I mean... I'm extremely new to this Subaru community and there's a good possibility that this 205 could be one of the fastest around...... sad honestly.

-Derf

UPDATE**

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN1507-1.jpg
Stage 4 Crower cams
+1mm BC Valves
Springs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN1553.jpg
AEM with all sensors
ACT 6 puck
FMIC
TIAL 38mm

12mm oil pump is on its way. Car should rev past 8k now. Motor is going to Kienan at All Aspects to be put back together and for a tune in the next two weeks.

It seems to me, once you start upgrading the pistons you might as well get ones custom built for your block or custom fit for new sleeves. as I have heard stories about how off the shelf pistons are NEVER exactly the same size. The piston comapies simply do not have the same amout of money and technology as SUBARU does when they build everything @ the factory.

So you're saying Wiseco, JE, Mahle and Supertech don't have $multi-million dollar facilities and years of R&D experience in making hi-tech pistons, manufactured of the latest material technology, to the most exacting standards and matched within strict tolerances for precision, hi-HP builds?

Factories, in their nature, are geared up to churn out high volumes at the lowest cost. Dedicated aftermarket manufacturers, especially those well established, are far more concerned with a quality product suited to the end users specific requirements, hence comparably higher costs.

In fact, most 'custom' pistons would be manufactured using the same techniques as 'off-the-shelf' ones, so if you're saying off-the-shelf products are prone to differences in dimensions, what's to say the customs ones won't be?

In any high HP build, its imperative to measure, measure, and measure again to be certain, all your clearances and match up the pistons to each cylinder in relation to the stated tolerances of not only the aftermarket component manufacturers but also the factory tolerances as well. With my build, I'm relying on the factory workshop manual as there is little other info available for the H6 motor, and I trust the info that came with my internals enough to come to a fine balance on the actual clearances I will be living with.

^^^ given that mahle makes something like 70% of the OEM pistons on the market. They kinda have more money and technology than subaru for piston manufacturing and design.

^^^ given that mahle makes something like 70% of the OEM pistons on the market. They kinda have more money and technology than subaru for piston manufacturing and design.

Precisely my point.

UPDATE**

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN1507-1.jpg
Stage 4 Crower cams
+1mm BC Valves
Springs


They could just be empty boxes for all we know! Come on, show us the real goods!! :rolleyes: :)

did you go for inconel exhaust?

These parts are at Abacus.. not here anymore.

NOt sure on the valves.

PAR Dogbox. Straight cut 1,3 and 4. Helical 2nd.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN1743.jpg

well, those look sexy ;)

let me know when you want to do the TGV's...

Nice, unique build. Looking forward to final results, I love to follow builds as they are usually a long and arduous journey but worth it in the end.

Ron charges $300 for the crank drilling. It's not an easy thing to do. You need to build a jig to do it right and keep the crank in place. It's not really a "we'll figure it out" sort of thing.

With those big cams and that pretty big turbo, you might consider custom pistons with higher compression, like 9.5. I think you'll be happier, and you'll be able to tune because of the lower dynamic compression you get with those cams.

I know this has nothing to do with this thread but im depserate for a answer from anyone who has a lot of education with swapping these motors. I have a 95 Legacy L 2.2 completely stock. I want to know what motor I could upgrade to and how much my automatic transmission can handle. I just want to swap the motor, not the tranny. I am completley car illiterate but I need some answers so I know what to purchase. Then, my friends can help me put it all together. Can someone please help me?

I know this has nothing to do with this thread but im depserate for a answer from anyone who has a lot of education with swapping these motors.

Best advise I can give you is start a thread specific to your situation in the Subaru Conversion forum. The folks in there will have the experience to help you out, and you won't upset folks by hijacking someone elses thread.

Larry

you're converting the 205 to semiclosed? whats involved in that and what kind of small fortune does that cost?

I'm having some 1/4" aluminum welded in between the cylinder and the block wall. I don't like press in's. They prestress the cylinder wall too much in my opinion. My machine shop is doing it for my EG33 for $300. Guessing maybe $200-$250 for a 4 cylinder? Just need to do it before boring the cylinders and decking the block.

Alright. Been awhile since I updated this thing. Because of problems here and there, I have had to wait quite a while. Things are moving along nicely now.

I had to wait for a damn shift rod to get here from Australia to get the tranny finshed up... but it's done now and installed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/img059.jpg

Long first gear. Should be around 40-44mph in 1st gear and then tighter ratios after that. Still on the 3.9 final tho and stock diffs. I wont be able to run any sort of slicks or sticky tire until the diffs are changed. Dumping at 6K+ on boost, if the tires don't spin, axles and diffs will have a fit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/img057.jpg Motor is done and completely assembled. Rotated manifold to shorten up the I/C piping. Perrin Fuel Rails. No A/C.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/img058.jpg AVO turbo inlet hose, Borla header, 820cc injectors, 12mm oil pump. Gruppe-S up pipe with 38mm TIAL.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/img065.jpg Motor and tranny in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/img066.jpg Battery relocated to the trunk. ZEX kit should be installed here shortly as well. 50 shot should help spool significantly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/img060.jpg Front mount in place.

Few other things in the works but you get the idea. it's actually coming along. We're definietly looking forward to actually seeing what this thing will do. Not too many 2.0l Subbie's rolling around making 450+... we'll see.

looking stellar Fred!!!
can't wait to see it in action!!!

damn i read through this whole thing and this is a really impresive build, cant wait to see what the actuall numbers come out to

damn i read through this whole thing and this is a really impresive build, cant wait to see what the actuall numbers come out to


There are a few of us that are anxious to see what it actually does. Could do really well.... or not.:lol: As long as the motor and tranny stay together for a bit, I'll be happy. Big HP #'s are only a roatated turbo kit away if the SZ55 falls short. The goal is 10.'s. May need a bit more work to get there.... but its doable. I have complete faith in Kienan and Vern... we'll get there eventually.

glad to see its comin along....

I know far too well myself, that its a LONG ass process... and simply getting it all together...and getting it RUNNING right are like day and night :rolleyes: ....... :p

Horrible video.... but all I have right now. Off the phone....


http://media.putfile.com/another-subbie

http://media.putfile.com/Subbie

good call on ported WRX heads. i ported mine, and they came out awesome. i didnt end up going w/ oversized valves (didnt see the benefit, given their cost + machine work). for the record im running Crower Stage2 cams w/ their 60lb single valvesprings and stock retainers (aftermarket retainers = titanium, and titanium retainers are *supposed* to be replaced somewhat regularly, whereas the stock stainless steel retainers will last forever)

Jasper, any inputs on what I can do to get 400+whp? I been reading and following this forum. Its unique how you are trying to get 450+whp on the 2.0, I decide to go with the USDM STI swap on my 02' wrx. Im going to do the swap in Spring. I recently picked up Crower Stg2 cams with Brian Crower valvetrain kit. I seen how you had that in your old setup. I want to still be able to drive my car on the streets after the swap. I was thinking about getting Stg. 3 cams, but I think thats pushing it for now. How do the Stg. 2 Crower cams perform? Do they give you that rough idle sound?

^ I don't think he's trying anymore... car is back to stock last time I heard :(

It's back.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN2419.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN2426.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN2424.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN2423.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN2421.jpg

Car is in the middle of being tuned right now... so far, 463awhp on 24psi, all boost. :devil:

looks rather tasty:) Congrats on the power so far! How are your oil pressure numbers looking? Are they holding constant all the way up top?

looks rather tasty:) Congrats on the power so far! How are your oil pressure numbers looking? Are they holding constant all the way up top?

Yeah, Kienan said everything was looking great so far. Not going too much further. I'm actually happy with the numbers as is and will probably drive around on only 21/22psi (405whp).

keep this up
i am curious to see what this wagon will do on the quarter mile

fred,
I have a coupon I won at the last all aspects meet for 3 dyno pulls. let me know if you need it ;)

Wow, bump to a cool older thread. I'm having Dylan at DS1 build me somthing really similar to this. Do you have a dyno chart I can see to get an idea of how the power comes on?

It's back.....


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Japslapr/My%20Subbie/DSCN2421.jpg

Car is in the middle of being tuned right now... so far, 463awhp on 24psi, all boost. :devil:

With or without the juice ??

BTW, what intake mani is that ?

looks like a reversed stock manifold to me...also, fred, have you squeezed the bottle yet?

Stock manifold.

Power is all boost. My tuner and I were both very pleased with the power the car made enough to leave the bottel full in the back of the car untouched. Just wanted to put in some seat time and enjoy the car before we pushed it and took even further chances of breaking things. We were also not certain how much more power the bottle would net. The hotside of the turbo is pretty much maxed out so we're not sure if spraying would even help. If I can't move the air... I just can't move the air.

I am nearing the beginning of a very similar 205 build. My block will be sleeved with some other goodies... Your build gives me confidence and I am glad everything worked out for you.

Could you PM me the details of the modifications made on your stock crank?

I am debating running the stock crank or sourcing something else.

hey man glad to see that the build turned out good and you got near the numbers you wanted congrats man

yes, I heard through the grapevine that things have turned out well!!!

530 or so is the word I've heard :)

yes, I heard through the grapevine that things have turned out well!!!

530 or so is the word I've heard :)

530 on what turbo? Pump gas? All Aspects dyno?

thats nasty man. he should deffinitly get some vids of this beast up on here. that would make my day !!

ya i didnt see those vids my bad lol, car sounds ****in insane.. get some vids with an actuall camera lol

Awesome... Im really on the edge of a built 205 or keep tryin for a 207...

I was told that the cly walls are only good for 400WHP... how long do you think this will last?

Awesome... Im really on the edge of a built 205 or keep tryin for a 207...

I was told that the cly walls are only good for 400WHP... how long do you think this will last?

I have a hard time buying into this "the cylinder walls are only good to 400hp" crap. I have yet to see a 205 fail that way. PLEASE SOMEONE PROVE ME WRONG SO I CAN SHUT UP! I think the 205 block is HIGHLY underrated and underloved.

I really want someone to show me pics of "blown out cylinder walls" from running at or more than 400hp and NOT from throwing a stock rod through them. I think this was one of those myths that started way back in the day by old DSM owners and the guys who said it was OK to remove your front subframe becasue the GC's didn't have them. /rant

so, I read in the PPB that he bent his valves. What exactly happened there? or did I miss it somewhere.

u can't remove the front subframe?:huh: uh oh lol:eek:

I have a hard time buying into this "the cylinder walls are only good to 400hp" crap. I have yet to see a 205 fail that way. PLEASE SOMEONE PROVE ME WRONG SO I CAN SHUT UP! I think the 205 block is HIGHLY underrated and underloved.

I really want someone to show me pics of "blown out cylinder walls" from running at or more than 400hp and NOT from throwing a stock rod through them. I think this was one of those myths that started way back in the day by old DSM owners and the guys who said it was OK to remove your front subframe becasue the GC's didn't have them. /rant



the 205 is definitely underrated. The same way the 257 was called POS when it first came out too.

The difference is, people worked on the 257 while the 205 was just kinda abandoned over time. Throwing on a big turbo and meth/gas It's most definitely an option to make big power with even a stock 205.

I have a hard time buying into this "the cylinder walls are only good to 400hp" crap. I have yet to see a 205 fail that way. PLEASE SOMEONE PROVE ME WRONG SO I CAN SHUT UP! I think the 205 block is HIGHLY underrated and underloved.

I really want someone to show me pics of "blown out cylinder walls" from running at or more than 400hp and NOT from throwing a stock rod through them. I think this was one of those myths that started way back in the day by old DSM owners and the guys who said it was OK to remove your front subframe becasue the GC's didn't have them. /rant

Good point... Normaly I do tons of HM... just a guy I REALLY trust... he said not to go over 400WHP and it will last for 75K or more beating the hell outta it every day...


On the crank side... Fomr what I gather the USDM and the JDM are the same strengh but the JDM has better oiling and possibly better balanced?
is that correct?

Good point... Normaly I do tons of HM... just a guy I REALLY trust... he said not to go over 400WHP and it will last for 75K or more beating the hell outta it every day...


On the crank side... Fomr what I gather the USDM and the JDM are the same strengh but the JDM has better oiling and possibly better balanced?
is that correct?


My source tell me that the 205 and 207 cranks are almost identical but I would have a hard time beliving the crank coudn't use some balancing. I'm under the impression that the two things holding the 205 back other than the crappy turbo are the heads and the pistons (I think the rods are inferior too but if your going to have the motor apart why leave those to chance).

With the price of a blown 205 being anywhere from cheap to free and the abundance of parts available for good prices, I'm still not sure why people don't do more of these builds. Guess I'm going to find out in a few months :)

I really want someone to show me pics of "blown out cylinder walls"

You're not going to see that kind of failure, the sleeve is far too thick for it to just "blow out" before something else breaks. What does happen is that there is so much pressure that the sleeve is stretched out of round, and when this happens it "grabs" the piston, and, well, you can imagine that is not a good thing. It doesn't take much of a change in clearances there for things to go south pretty quickly.

interesting!

makes more sense...

At what wheel power level would you say that would happen.. I know every turbo and motor is different... but in general...

You're not going to see that kind of failure, the sleeve is far too thick for it to just "blow out" before something else breaks. What does happen is that there is so much pressure that the sleeve is stretched out of round, and when this happens it "grabs" the piston, and, well, you can imagine that is not a good thing. It doesn't take much of a change in clearances there for things to go south pretty quickly.

I still dont buy it. I wanna see it. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with a 205 due to the block yet.

You're not going to see that kind of failure, the sleeve is far too thick for it to just "blow out" before something else breaks. What does happen is that there is so much pressure that the sleeve is stretched out of round, and when this happens it "grabs" the piston, and, well, you can imagine that is not a good thing. It doesn't take much of a change in clearances there for things to go south pretty quickly.

um...last I checked; cast iron doesn't exactly stretch, it cracks ;)

skulls ej25d running 40 psi didnt ovalize like most ppl thought it would