Everything is installed

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/Hispanics/100_0737.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/Hispanics/100_0736.jpg

The car has some kind of boost leak. It struggles to boost 1 Bar. I cant hear any leaks. BTW I used a new OEM Subaru BOV gasket. Any Ideas?


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/Hispanics/100_0731.jpg
I was thinking that it might be leaking from the SMC injection Noozle. I sanded down the curve at the noozle drill location to get a flat surface. I also tightened it down good but since the inside of the intercooler is curved it might not be air sealed even with all my efforts. You can even see the shinny sanded area under the noozle in the pic. Any help would be great!

What about where you hooked up the progressive controller for boost pressure? Perhaps that line needs to be looked at?

Even with the system offline (if you wired in a switch or pull fuse) does the boost problem still exist?

I had my nozzel mounted in the same tmic and it worked fine. The rubber gaskets and washer mold (bend) to the contour of the IC opening...

http://66.49.172.173/subaru/pics/turboswap/011.jpg

What about where you hooked up the progressive controller for boost pressure? Perhaps that line needs to be looked at?

Even with the system offline (if you wired in a switch or pull fuse) does the boost problem still exist?

I had my nozzel mounted in the same tmic and it worked fine. The rubber gaskets and washer mold (bend) to the contour of the IC opening...


I tapped into the boost vacum line off the BOV with the T they provided. But I have to tap into that line twice because of my Defi Boost gauge.
I pulled the fuse but I still have the problem.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/Hispanics/100_0740.jpg

Am I the only idiot who had a boost leak after the install? I did a search and couldnt find S***

Maybe the progressive controller box is faulty and allowing boost to leak? Easy to rule out by simply disconnecting (or crimping) the supply line, then retest. Otherwise I’d investigate your likely couplers, etc. Maybe pull the tmic back off then reinstall while verifying the two couplers are solid. That damn turbo hot side coupler likes to leak too!

{edit} One thing to note is that in the first pic you're using a crap hose clamp to hold the compressor coupler. Like I said, that hot side heats the silicone and it likes to leak. If anyplace needs a T-bolt clamp it's there... ;)

Thanks man I need to update the pic. Today I purchased two T-Bolt Clamps for that dammed Red 90degree coupler. After I installed them Its still not boosting. its boosted a little better but no way near to where it should be.

I just eliminated the line that leads to the progressive controller. I'll have to check tomorrow to see it thats it.

I posted a complete writeup on installing the injector nozzle on the front flat side of the TMIC, never any leaks.
Try some JB weld around the inside and the outside and let it cure for the full 24 hrs before using.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h246/dibblejr/DSC00415.jpg

Jay-R

Am I the only idiot who had a boost leak after the install? I did a search and couldnt find S***

^^^What's the wire-pigtail hanging out of there? MAP sensor perhaps? :confused:

Jay-R I read your thread a while back when I was researching Alky Injection. THANK YOU!

I wanted to spray at the intercooler outlet because I was afraid of some of the meth not being optimized.

If all else fails I will use JB weld.

^^^What's the wire-pigtail hanging out of there? MAP sensor perhaps? :confused:

That is his TEMP sensor. I think its part of a failsafe system

Here is my T bolt updated shot. Also eliminated the T line for the Progressive controller. You can see it by the BOV.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/Hispanics/100_0743.jpg

You got it, it helps me datalog with my IPAQ through my commander controller, great system.

Jay-R



That is his TEMP sensor. I think its part of a failsafe system

If you installed your system in cold temps the rubber gromments may be to hard to conform. Try getting some softer rubber compound grommet see if it helps.
When I originally installed my first setup I had the nozzle installed in the TB coupling, I used thick soft rummer along with a steel washer on both side so I could really get it tight, it worked great. Then I ported my TMIC as I stated in my writeup.
Just a couple more ways that may help you out before you use the JB weld. That would be a last resort.
Did you use thread locker on the threads going through the TMIC? It may also help.

Jay-R
Jay-R I read your thread a while back when I was researching Alky Injection. THANK YOU!

I wanted to spray at the intercooler outlet because I was afraid of some of the meth not being optimized.

If all else fails I will use JB weld.

Did you use thread locker on the threads going through the TMIC? It may also help.

Jay-R

Yes I used blue thread locker on the nozzle. BTW the SMC Nozzle is not threaded onto the Intercooler like yours. It sandwiches itself in between.

You might want to buy the threaded one from the ultimate cc. I bought it with the large injector since I maxed out the smaller one. I had a spare but I let a friend here have it when I installed his kit.
You may be able to modify yours with parts from your local hardware store.

Jay-R

Yes I used blue thread locker on the nozzle. BTW the SMC Nozzle is not threaded onto the Intercooler like yours. It sandwiches itself in between.

Dont laugh at my ghetto pressure test. I fired up the air compressor and charged the system until the BOV started to let out air. With a tire pressure gauge it held a little over 5 PSI for several minutes. Sprayed everything, no leaks. Could I have a bad BOV?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/Hispanics/100_0745_00.jpg

Changed the BOV. Still leaking from ann unknown location. Next step, I will change the NEW BOV gasket to an even newer one.

did you pressure test the whole system with the TMIC installed on the vehicle? there's a number of additional places you could be leaking boost, such as turbo inlet, compressor outlet, etc.

did you pressure test the whole system with the TMIC installed on the vehicle? there's a number of additional places you could be leaking boost, such as turbo inlet, compressor outlet, etc.

That will be my next move

Update, 7 days of Troubleshooting, two BOVs, several New BOV gaskets, New T Clamps, 2 TB hoses, tons of soapy water and I could not find a leak anywhere.

Then all of a sudden while sunday driving.......boost hits 1.5 bar as it did before the install. It would not hold for long and tapered off to 1.2 bar. But it is boosting much better.

What could have been wrong? Wastegate? I still feel as if its not boosting as it always did.

Dude
This is a rough case. Maybe something that you did and dont know. Maybe a combination of everything you did. At least you say its better, but not perfect.
Hopefully it will last.

Great you got it fixed though

Jay-R

Update, 7 days of Troubleshooting, two BOVs, several New BOV gaskets, New T Clamps, 2 TB hoses, tons of soapy water and I could not find a leak anywhere.

Then all of a sudden while sunday driving.......boost hits 1.5 bar as it did before the install. It would not hold for long and tapered off to 1.2 bar. But it is boosting much better.

What could have been wrong? Wastegate? I still feel as if its not boosting as it always did.

What is bothering me is that during the begining of the drive it was not boosting past 1 bar. Then after a turn......BAM Boost kicked in at 1.5 bar.

WTF

I know how you feel, I have felt the same way in the past.

Jay-R

What is bothering me is that during the begining of the drive it was not boosting past 1 bar. Then after a turn......BAM Boost kicked in at 1.5 bar.

WTF

check your wastegate actuator and the flapper itself. One could be binding up. You can test this rather simply by using a vac/pressure tool (hand pump) and pump pressure into the actuator. it should open at 7psi if I am not mistaken. You can remove the actuator rod from the flapper by removing the circlip, and move the flapper by hand. it should be easy to open and close.

check your wastegate actuator and the flapper itself. One could be binding up. You can test this rather simply by using a vac/pressure tool (hand pump) and pump pressure into the actuator. it should open at 7psi if I am not mistaken. You can remove the actuator rod from the flapper by removing the circlip, and move the flapper by hand. it should be easy to open and close.

Thank You. That sounds more like the problem I'm having.

LOL More thread searching LOL..... Keyword actuator.

I cant find anything wrong with the actuator and flapper. It is still holding boost strong. I am guessing it was bad gas.