I lost a bearing in my WRX block so I've got a new EJ25 head on it's way. Am I going to want to buy an '04 STi engine service manual for the 2.5 in addition to the WRX shop manuals?

I'm not going for lots of power, just a nice upgrade from stock. I don't want to buy a new transmission anytime soon.

Here's what my plans are calling far so far. Am I missing anything?

US Spec STi Shortblock 10103AB440
Cometic .040" MLS Gasket DOHC 16V
Cosworth modified oil pump
Process West oil cooler
Greddy oil catch can
APS uppipe
Cobb 11mm head studs
ACT WRX StreetLite flywheel (do I need STi instead of WRX?)
ACT WRX Street clutch
Cusco motor + tranny mount
STi pitch stop mount
polish + port headers
Samco Hoses (ancillary, turbo and induction kits)

What should I be doing to my heads while I'm at it?

Suggestions for engine hoist with engine stand? I'm going to go check Harbor Freight.

Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, experience, etc...

Cheers!

I lost a bearing in my WRX block so I've got a new EJ25 head on it's way. Am I going to want to buy an '04 STi engine service manual for the 2.5 in addition to the WRX shop manuals?

I'm not going for lots of power, just a nice upgrade from stock. I don't want to buy a new transmission anytime soon.

Here's what my plans are calling far so far. Am I missing anything?

US Spec STi Shortblock 10103AB440
Cometic .040" MLS Gasket DOHC 16V
Cosworth modified oil pump
Process West oil cooler
Greddy oil catch can
APS uppipe
Cobb 11mm head studs
ACT WRX StreetLite flywheel (do I need STi instead of WRX?)
ACT WRX Street clutch
Cusco motor + tranny mount
STi pitch stop mount
polish + port headers
Samco Hoses (ancillary, turbo and induction kits)

What should I be doing to my heads while I'm at it?

Suggestions for engine hoist with engine stand? I'm going to go check Harbor Freight.

Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, experience, etc...

Cheers!

Howdy!

THe flywheel and clutch are based on what you do for a tranny, if its going to be the wrx one, then use a wrx one

as for the heads, besides having them re-decked, whats your power plans? the wrx cams are not enough if your going to plan on putting down more in the future, a nice 264 would do ya, wouldnt be too rough for daily driving (my 272's are borderline)

EDIT: TGV Delete's and a PnP job on them should be done while its apart

theres actually alot more parts that your going to need, check out either mine or drinkav8's threads, they have some good info, his has all the DIY info that i lack

good luck!

-J

Ok I read your thread and I see a few things I need to add. However, at this point I lost my nephews help for a few weeks so I'm thinking of hiring someone else to do it.

Does anyone know who to turn to in SLC, Utah? I called Cobb and RallySportDirect. My only lead now is Modern Garage and my cell phone won't dial their number for some reason.

I do have a question about the radiator and thermostat. I read about a 160 tstat. Is it aftermarket or an OEM part? And will I need a bigger radiator?

I'm running a stock WRX radiator on my car and I have a 2.5 block with 2.0 heads. I do use a little coolent so if you have the money I'd do it but wait to put it in until the last moment.

I'm having trouble getting my 2.0L engine out.

I've removed all of the bolts that bond the engine to the tranny. Also I've removed the release fork shaft, but I can't see any way to remove the release fork. It flops around a lot so I don't think it's attached to the release bearing. This is a big caution step in the service manual to remove the release fork.

Is there anything else that would keep the two married so tightly?

Once you remove the release fork shaft, you just pull the fork up until it disengages from the throwout bearing. You won't be able to remove it from the transmission, but that's okay as long as it's not still slotted into the throwout bearing.

You removed all of the bolts... did you also remove the two NUTS?

If you did that, and it's still not coming out, your dowel pins are probably corroded in place. Common on Subarus, real PITA. The only thing you can really do is spray a lot of penetrating oil at the dowel holes (PB Blaster is the best commonly available) and do a lot of cursing and prying. Subaru did not give us any good prying points, so what usually ends up happening is you need to take an extremely sharp chisel and hammer it between the engine and trans to get it apart enough to get large screwdrivers and prybars in there.

No, it's not pretty, but it's got to come apart! It doesn't hurt the engine/transmission castings except for some raised up marring, which is easily filed down if you're concerned about looks.

If you did that, and it's still not coming out, your dowel pins are probably corroded in place. Common on Subarus, real PITA. The only thing you can really do is spray a lot of penetrating oil at the dowel holes (PB Blaster is the best commonly available) and do a lot of cursing and prying. Subaru did not give us any good prying points, so what usually ends up happening is you need to take an extremely sharp chisel and hammer it between the engine and trans to get it apart enough to get large screwdrivers and prybars in there.

That did the trick. The driver side dowel was the bugger. It didn't work until I bought and applied some PB Blaster and sharpened my chisel. Perfect advice and I didn't bend the lower bolts doing it.

I got everything put back together and I was excited to start her up, but alas nothing happens when I turn the key. Any ideas what this could be?

I doubled checked the alternator, engine harness and starter connections. Everything is good and tight other then two wires that I didn't find a home for.

Here are some photos:
http://zygospore.com/gallery/v/transportation/impreza/hybrid/?g2_page=3

http://zygospore.com/gallery/d/12726-2/DSCF2544.JPG
Starter has one wire connected to it. Ground is nearby.

http://zygospore.com/gallery/d/12729-2/DSCF2545.JPG
What does this single yellow wire go to?

http://zygospore.com/gallery/d/12732-2/DSCF2548.JPG


This is another problem. What attached to the blue T. The hose from the tumble generator or the hose from the air bypass hose? I got the bypass hose hooked up. The tumble generator on the passenger side head doesn't have a hose. Does this hose just dangle?

Thanks for any help.

You need to go back and double check all your connections. If you removed the engine and didn't tear apart the intake manifold and fuel assembly, everything should snap back together. No two connectors are alike....you can't screw it up by plugging the wrong connector in.

Once you've done that, and you still have no start, check to make sure you didn't get the fuel delivery hose and the fuel return hose backwards. I made the mistake of not marking my lines and as soon as I flipped em back the right way, she fired right up.

I got everything put back together and I was excited to start her up, but alas nothing happens when I turn the key. Any ideas what this could be?

I doubled checked the alternator, engine harness and starter connections. Everything is good and tight other then two wires that I didn't find a home for.

Here are some photos:
http://zygospore.com/gallery/v/transportation/impreza/hybrid/?g2_page=3

http://zygospore.com/gallery/d/12726-2/DSCF2544.JPG
Starter has one wire connected to it. Ground is nearby.

http://zygospore.com/gallery/d/12729-2/DSCF2545.JPG
What does this single yellow wire go to?

http://zygospore.com/gallery/d/12732-2/DSCF2548.JPG


This is another problem. What attached to the blue T. The hose from the tumble generator or the hose from the air bypass hose? I got the bypass hose hooked up. The tumble generator on the passenger side head doesn't have a hose. Does this hose just dangle?

Thanks for any help.

That yellow wire connector hooks up to the back of the starter.

That vaccuum hose goes under the intake manifold I THINK, dont remember.

yellow started and the other one goes to the BOV?

The yellow wire clips onto the starter to provide power. Make sure the starter is grounded out tightly as well.

That hose goes nowhere on bugeyes. Its a purge for the TGVs, just let it hang :).

-Matt

Yep, let it dangle.

Alright you guys are awesom! That little yellow wire solved my no starter problem.

I learned something today. A WRX does not run well on water for coolant. Ooops.

I loaded my valet map on the AccessPort and I keep bouncing off the 4K rev limiter. The first 22 miles have been so much fun.

I added the 2.5 block; PnP job on the exhaust headers; ACT streetlite clutch and flywheel and Cobb crank pulley. The feeling isn't comparable to what it was.

I can't wait to break this bitch in and get her tuned.

:disco:

Congrats! Be gentle with her and be sure you check for leaks often. I've got almost 1000 miles on my hybrid with no problems yet! I hope to have the money for a tune in Oct:( All my money went to getting her running!

Congrats! Be gentle with her and be sure you check for leaks often. I've got almost 1000 miles on my hybrid with no problems yet! I hope to have the money for a tune in Oct:( All my money went to getting her running!

Be glad you had money to get her running. I just have more debt now. :rolleyes: But having my baby back feels better then seeing her sleep in the garage for 8 months.

I need to drain some oil. I think I put too much in.

I'm following this break-in procedure I found on Cobb Tuning.
http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/images/BreakinYourNewlyBuiltEnginev103.pdf


I think the SAE30 oil burns easily. I smell burnt oil after I cruise the freeway. So far I've seen one drip, but fluid levels seem to be steady. I need to get my temp and pressure gages hooked up soon.

Glad to hear you got her running. Oh and you did make sure to plug the breather hose in the top of the block right? It should be right under the PCV valve. That thing will leak oil every time you hit a bump and splash oil on top of the block.