I need an experts advice on how to proceed with valve replacement.

I recently replaced all 4 intake valves...but after getting only 5K miles out of the engine...it started having problems again. I pulled the engine and 1 head earlier today....and found that 1 of the intake valves is not seating properly. The engine was also making a ticking sound...that gradually got worse before I tore it down.

I am assuming that I need to change out the valve seals and valve guides....and possibly may need to replace the valve that was not seating

Misc Questions

(1) Should I just go ahead and replace all the valve guides...or should I measure the inner diameter of the guides to see if they are in tolerance rather than throwing money away on guides that may be good (they are like $ 20.00 a piece)
(2) If I measure/check the guides myself, what are the best tools/methods to use? Right now I am looking at small hole gages and a digital micrometer with an accuracy out to .0001. I think I can get both for around $ 30.00 on Ebay.....but I question wether or not I can truly get measurements with an accuracy out to the 4th decimal place ( +/- .0001") with a combination of small hole gages and a digital micrometer
(3) Can a machine shop check the width of the guides?
(4) If I install the guides myself, what special tools are required to install them? The mechanic manual states that you need a tool to install and a tool to ream the new guides. I dont have these tools and am wondering if this is a DYI job or one that should be done by a machine shop.

(5) Should I have the valve seats resurfaced?

(6) What should I expect a machine shop to charge for resurfacing all 8 valve seats? For installing new seals and guides (if I provide the parts)?

I am going to sell this car once i get it running....but I want to do the job right for the next owner.

Looking for any and all advice from experienced wrenchers and pro's.

Thanks in advance.

Mike (AKA Nick the Novice)

when you replaced the valves, did you seat them according to the factory manual??? The old valves would have made the seats suite them, and not new valves.

Easy answer is take it to a machine shop that does heads and pay the $$$ for it to get done, unless you have access to all the tolls and really know what you are doing.

go get a good valve job. mmm

Thanks guys.....looks like that is the direction I am going to go. I know a good machine shop...hopefully the price won't be more than$ 100 labor for the following for both heads combined (I will supply the parts)

(1) Inspect and replace Valve guides
(2) Inspect and machine valves (possibly replace 1 or 2)
(3) Replace all Valve seals
(4) machine all valve seats
(5) Clean and assemble

Am I missing anything?

I know a good machine shop...hopefully the price won't be more than$ 100 labor for the following for both heads combined
A $100 for all the valve job labor, including machining and re-assembly? Unless you saved this guy's life, or he is your best friend, I really don't think so.

GO to your local NAPA store, pick up a valve lapping tool and some lapping compound. Ask beg or plead with your local mechanic to teach how to lap a set of valves in and then do it right yourself it's not that hard.

What should I expect to pay for the valve job labor?

There was a poster on another thread who gave me the $ 50 per head labor price. He said he worked at a machine shop and this is what they used to charge.

I am thinking that I will at least take it in to have the valves measured. That would probably be a lot less expensive than buying the tools necessary to measure an inside hole diameter to an accuracy of .0001"

Thanks guys.....looks like that is the direction I am going to go. I know a good machine shop...hopefully the price won't be more than$ 100 labor for the following for both heads combined (I will supply the parts)

(1) Inspect and replace Valve guides
(2) Inspect and machine valves (possibly replace 1 or 2)
(3) Replace all Valve seals
(4) machine all valve seats
(5) Clean and assemble

Am I missing anything?

Yeah, check the valve springs. I've seen sacked out valve springs cause accelerated valve and seat wear. Also check the retainers and keepers for wear.