After 'revving' the gas a little, the RPMs will drop to around 200 rpms, car will almost stall...it'll sit there for a very short period, then rise up to idle of around 1100 RPMs. Car has a 16g, K&N, WRX IC, and TBE. I recently cleaned the MAF with some CRC spray cleaner, and cleaned the air filter. What might it be?

compression check?

compression check?

hmm, that would really suck if something was borked. I just bought the car and have not even been able to drive it around due to lack of a functioning tranny.

These cars just don't idle well IMO. I still have issues, and I pretty much rebuilt everything, and replaced most of the sensors.

You can try your IAC valve....that's what I'd suspect. Does the problem occur when the A/C is on? If you haven't tried that....do that. If the problem isn't there when the A/C is on....chances are it's the IAC valve, and/or the wiring/control of it.

interesting that turning the AC on would 'fix' it. I'll give that a try.

Turning on the A/C might bring engine load up to equal the borked signal from the iac. It may be stuck open a little causing too much fuel to enter the system. I think...

once warmed up my leggy idles at about 400, then drops to 200ish for a second then goes back up to 400. I think it is the way that the engine idles. If it runs fine other than the low idle you should be fine. The idle freaked me out when i first got my leggy too.

A friend of mine said the TB could need to be cleaned...but it seems to be moving fine to me. The car is undergoing a tranny swap right now, so I'll have to see what happens when I actually drive it around.

I just don't wanna be going WOT then have to brake and/or turn suddenly and have the car die on me...

Is it actually idling at 200 rpms?

Doesn't the stock tach only register over about 500 rpm?

compression check?

second that

Is it actually idling at 200 rpms?

Doesn't the stock tach only register over about 500 rpm?

nah, it pretty much goes down to zero. Man, I really hope the motor isn't blown.

My 1998 EJ22 does something similar. I'm pretty much certain its the TPS I just can't afford to replace it right now. You can test it by unplugging the wires and measuring the resistance between two of the terminals. As you turn it (open the throttle) and the resistance should rise or fall smoothly, you will see if there is a dead spot (know what I mean?). You can try moving it and resetting it. I only know the procedure for resetting the newer engines, but it might be the same. It is shown below:

1. Ignition on, engine not running.
2. Disconnect the TPS wiring connector for more then 30 seconds.
3. Reconnect the TPS wiring connector .
4. Press the throttle to wide open and hold for 5 seconds.
5. Release the throttle and turn ignition off.

I'm thinking this is most likely the culprit, unless of course its not then I don't know what to say! Hope this helps!!:)

hmm, I'll look into that.