thinking about trading up to a 2.5 in the future and I was looking to make it as affordable as possible...

how does this sound for 350 wheel ponies?
sti usdm short block
power enterprises 18g or maybe 20g
PE 800 cc inj.
walbro feul pump
intake? (is it necessary?)
sti RA gears
racing clutch of some sort (haven't looked yet)

anything missing? 2.0 heads? will they work, gaskets etc?
i'm real new to this so it'll take a lot of education before i'm ready but i've got time.

i meant forced performance 18g or 20g my bad
long day

witha 20g u will have better luck getting 350 sounds good tho, u will need an intercooler as minamum of a sti one. The wrx heads will work i have them on my hybrid. use the sti gaskets and u should be cool

i forgot to mention i have the turbo xs top mount and full exhaust, up down and catback. I've been protuned by agile and plan on going there again when all is said and done. so sti head gaskets? cool, thanks for the input. might as well do my timing belt as well. how bout the oil pump?

i did my timing belt as well with a PE timing belt, but did not do the oil pump as i only had 40,000 miles and didnt have the extra cash. if u are to do one get the cosworth pump its worth the extra money.

You want to run a thicker head gsaket is you're using WRX heads. As for the injectors, you can scale back do the Helix 660cc's if you're runinng the 20G - you won't need more fuel, but the 800cc's will be more than adequate.

For 350whp I would recommend meth injection, it's going to be hard to do on pump.

Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S

You want to run a thicker head gsaket is you're using WRX heads. As for the injectors, you can scale back do the Helix 660cc's if you're runinng the 20G - you won't need more fuel, but the 800cc's will be more than adequate.

For 350whp I would recommend meth injection, it's going to be hard to do on pump.

Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S
Gary, I'm looking at Cometic head gaskets...what size would you recommend?

i did my timing belt as well with a PE timing belt, but did not do the oil pump as i only had 40,000 miles and didnt have the extra cash.

I didnt do my oil pump and it had only done 30,000km...and it failed, fubar'ing a couple of bearings in my brand new EJ207 short block

IMHO, its worth the extra expense. I now have a Cosworth oil pump and race bearings, so it was worth it in the end I suppose :D

Depends on your compression target, but I would recommend 0.051" as it's easy to come by and should do the trick. You can run the stock gasket but should only do so if you are building a race gas car.

For the oil pump, often times the pump has debris from rings, pistons, bearings in it, which will cause it to fail prematurely. At ~$150, it's usually better to replace the pump.

Gary
Gruppe-S

why the RA gears?? why not just save up more money for a PPg setup...maybe 1-2 straight cut for now and later on down the line u can get the 3-5 helical..just wondering since i am also thinking about pretty much the same setup from my stage 4 setup...

oh and also...u might wanna check out the "subaru conversion" thread....that might help a great deal on the questions you might want answered in the future...such as problem shooting, shops, where to source parts, etc...enjoy!

Most people I have talked to have said the cosworth pump isn't worth it. they simply clean up the insides... like a port/polish job... but really, theres not that much to do.

I went with a new EJ22T pump with extra shims. It comes highly recommended from a number of people. And its cheaper by almost half!

def

Most people I have talked to have said the cosworth pump isn't worth it. they simply clean up the insides... like a port/polish job... but really, theres not that much to do.

I went with a new EJ22T pump with extra shims. It comes highly recommended from a number of people. And its cheaper by almost half!

def


I read somewhere that putting shims in the pump only increases pressure and decreases flow. For example: covering up some of a garder hoses mouth in order to make it shoot farther, it doesnt increase flow it only increased pressure.

I read somewhere that putting shims in the pump only increases pressure and decreases flow. For example: covering up some of a garder hoses mouth in order to make it shoot farther, it doesnt increase flow it only increased pressure.

The valve you speak of is a relief valve. Similar to say a recirculating BOV, the more shims in it, the more pressure it will hold before it opens.

The more pressure you make, in theory the more oil you are pushing through to the bearings. So there should be an increase in volume.

def

thanks for all the input guys. I'll be doing this in the future like i said so i'm sure this isn't the last of my questions

I think for the Suby EJxx the main concern is actually pushing oil to the valvetrain, shimming the pump definitely improves oiling to the valvetrain (when you increase pressure).

Gary
Gruppe-S

I think for the Suby EJxx the main concern is actually pushing oil to the valvetrain, shimming the pump definitely improves oiling to the valvetrain (when you increase pressure).

Gary
Gruppe-S

Thats news to me... seems that many theorize that the rod bearings get starved thus why it seems to to be a major failure mode (spun rod bearing).

According to a number of people the heads retain oil too much which can starve the rest of the system... some have went as far as plumbing the valve covers DIRECTLY back to the oil pan... this is the first I've heard of a valvetrain supply issue. Usually that is reserved for an in-line four, like the 4G63,... known for the noisy valve tap when cold (and oil starved).

When I tore my EJ207 down, I had where on the rod and main bearings... but the cam journals looks fine... even the buckets looked good. I ended up re-using half of them.

I am not saying you are wrong... I am just curious as to where this info came from...

def

Thats news to me... seems that many theorize that the rod bearings get starved thus why it seems to to be a major failure mode (spun rod bearing).

According to a number of people the heads retain oil too much which can starve the rest of the system... some have went as far as plumbing the valve covers DIRECTLY back to the oil pan... this is the first I've heard of a valvetrain supply issue. Usually that is reserved for an in-line four, like the 4G63,... known for the noisy valve tap when cold (and oil starved).

When I tore my EJ207 down, I had where on the rod and main bearings... but the cam journals looks fine... even the buckets looked good. I ended up re-using half of them.

I am not saying you are wrong... I am just curious as to where this info came from...

def

Yeah I definitely agree rod bearings are a problem with the Suby engine, but from what I've seen is that the bearings are being spun due to detonation / crankshaft deflection rather than oiling issues. The valve, especially in the STI 2.0 engines I have been told at high RPMs tend to run into oiling issues. We see a lot of failure on engines with high revs at the cam lobe, bucket, and valvetrain rather than the cam journals - but I'm nto sure if this is a direct result of insufficient oiling or not. You could be right, I have just been told that a lot of the guys in Japan like to run more oil pressure to get more oil into the heads when revving at high RPMs. :)

Gary
Gruppe-S