Quality:
The supplied hardware parts are top notch. Goodridge fittings are well known and the rest (bolts, clamps, heat shield, lines ect) are high quality. The core is solid and the welds are well crafted. The sandwich block is machined billet aluminum so its precise but at the same time don't drop an edge on pavement and watch your tools when assembling it so as not to "machine it yourself".

http://project802.net/personal/gallery/albums/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0209.thumb.jpg (http://project802.net/personal/gallery/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0209) http://project802.net/personal/gallery/albums/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0210.thumb.jpg (http://project802.net/personal/gallery/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0210) http://project802.net/personal/gallery/albums/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0211.thumb.jpg (http://project802.net/personal/gallery/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0211)

Assembly:
Hose assembly isn't hard but it does require a vice. Take your time, use a bit of oil (I used spare tranny oil, but it doesn't really matter) and just make sure you place the clamps on the hose before you place on the second fitting. Do not clip the clamps until you align the hoses in the car or they could be an issue later.

The adapter is easy to assemble. The threads are not pipe thread so I used a little Loctite 592 PST high temp thread sealant (NOT the thread locker!) for peace of mind. The fittings use an o-ring which needs lube so it doesn't bind up when torquing them down. I don't know what torque to use but I just went by feel having worked with aluminum. Don't use all the force in the world or you WILL strip it out. Watch it bottom out and then make it snug.

http://project802.net/personal/gallery/albums/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0212.thumb.jpg (http://project802.net/personal/gallery/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0212)

Installation:
The clearances are TIGHT. Way more than I like and I can't stress how tight they are. The adapter was not easy to get going as there is a very small tolerance in where it will fit. BE PATIENT when installing. It contacts the oil pan slightly and the hose above the oil filter pretty well. Fitting in the extender for the oil filter was tricky. I suggest using a socket large enough as its pretty hard to use a pipe wrench. It is steel but is soft when you can't get a large contact patch on it with a wrench.

The hoses are just barely long enough so you have to make sure that you do a test fit before you torque everything down. The "long" hose needs to be connected to the fitting closest to the front of the car. Do this line first. The "short" hose connects to the other one. It is a pain but you will get it. This is also why you should avoid clipping the clamps until now. Rotate the clamps so they don't take up any room in between the hoses. Hoses will contact the pan and the other fitting. The hoses sit side-by-side for most of the trip up to the core.

I had to deviate from the instructions a bit for some parts.
1) The '02 grill needs to be cut in one place to clear the core. At the rightmost, upper clip area there is plastic below it that needs to be taken off otherwise it just won't go back on.
2) I also had to bend the mounting bracket on the core that goes below the hood latch. I just bent it twice to make a "lane-change" looking shape. The metal is soft, just take your time and make two small bends.
3) The two bolts that attach to the top mounting bracket do not line up with the holes in the radiator support beam. I had to drill them out a bit more to make a notch large enough to find the centers on both.
4) I have a TurboXS-style FMIC so the radiator will not go up a few inches to make room for unscrewing the 10mm bolts for the hose bracket. Just use a socket on the passenger side bolt (remove it completely) and a box wrench on the drivers side bolt. Lift it up enough to clear the bracket and then tighten both down. A+++++ for Process West notching the bolt holes so you only have to remove one. Smart I tell ya.
5) The oil cooler will contact the FMIC core a TINY bit so insulate it somehow. This may be assembly tolerances. No biggie. Fix it so it doesn't rub either core.
6) I didn't mount the horns on the same bolt. Too much of a pain. I just used the common bolt with the core and the bottom bolt on the hood latch. Just rotate one of the horn brackets with a 10mm. No biggie either.
7) THIS IS AN IMPORTANT NOTE. The Subaru oil filter did not seal against the adapter and leaked everywhere so I used an Amsoil filter I had around. The Subaru part bottomed out against the filter extender before the o-ring bottomed out on the adapter. It leaked oil like a sieve! I have yet to ask PW why this might have happened. I will append this thread when I do so.

http://project802.net/personal/gallery/albums/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0248.thumb.jpg (http://project802.net/personal/gallery/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0248) http://project802.net/personal/gallery/albums/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0249.thumb.jpg (http://project802.net/personal/gallery/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0249) http://project802.net/personal/gallery/albums/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0252.thumb.jpg (http://project802.net/personal/gallery/pw_oil_cooler/IMG_0252)

Impressions:
I think every car should have a cooler like this. No joke. Not only is the kit well thought out and highest quality but consider this: I went for a mild drive where the oil came up to temp, I redlined it once and then drove 1/4 mile home. When I got out the core was HOT like burn your finger hot. It must take so much load off of the coolant system that I never thought was there. I installed this for track days and damn am I glad.

Installation was easy but it just takes time. Test fit, test fit, test fit, test fit!! Be patient and it will come together. I think I spent a lazy 3 to 4 hours on it. Do the same and it will come together well. Oil changes might suck because you will want to empty the core by taking the hoses off and its just annoying.

Oil pressure went down 5-10 psi cold and up 10 psi warm. I suspect the lack of thermostat AND the additional cooling causing the oil to not become as hot as I have in the past so the pressure doesn't drop like it used to.

Future:
I will be ordering a Mocal thermostat to put inline with the hoses. Twofold: the hoses that I have are just a tiny bit too short (I am concerned when the engine torques that it will pull on the hoses too much) so its taught throughout the mounting points and bends. The thermostat will increase the length of the hose a bit and it will provide me with some mental protection when I hit a New England winter.

Cliff's Notes:
Well thought out and a top quality kit. Every car should have one. I would like a little extra length on the hoses and a bit more clearance on the sandwich adapter.

Good write up!!!! How much was it? I have the same FMIC what is that wrap on the Intercooler pipe and where did you get it?

Thanks

Thanks! The price from vendors is about $450 but I got it new from a private sale. The wrap on the FMIC cold pipe is a ThermoTec cool tube (http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/14500/14500.html).

Is there a significant change with the oil cooler? Does it run better? Also did you notice any change with that wrap?

Thanks for that link it war very helpful

EDIT: Youe link was wrong it has the () added on to it

I don't have enough time with the cooler to tell you what the difference is. With the IC wrap, yes. The pipe went from too hot to handle to cool to the touch.

Awesome writeup. I plan to pick up one of these kits soon and the tips you provided will help out a ton.

Which oil pan do you have on your car, is it the stock wrx pan? I'm pretty sure this kit was designed for the STi so I wonder if you use an STi pan you will have more clearance in some areas and the lines/block will fit better. Guess I'll see when I install it as I put a 2.5 sti pan on my new block.

Thanks!

I have the WRX pan, correct. It is possible there is a pan clearance difference.

what's the part number of the Amsoil oil filter you used?

I just found out recently that using an STI oil filter works perfect. I actually had the same problem and had to dremmel that small section off when I had first bought mine. I used the Carquest brand STI filter. $7 bucks. Works great. NOTE: I installed mine on the passenger side. It was a much easier fit since this kit is based out of AUS. Perfect fit right behind the intercooler. I also didnt have to modify anything and I had more hose than I knew what to do with.

M|key ;)

DoodieHead - any pictures of your install on that side?

As soon as I get my motor reinstalled here in the next week or so I will snap a few pics

Wouldn't a better oil pump needed for this? like the one on the 22T? I was just wondering.

Nope.

I would have thought an upgraded oil pump should definetely be considered. More oil in the system, further for the oil to travel, and there is no pump from the oil cooler.
I removed mine.

More oil in the system won't matter a bit. The pump only cares if there isn't enough and ends up pumping air instead. The oil has to go a longer distance but that doesn't matter either. The only thing that matters is the increase in volume so there is a decrease in pressure in the system. If you wanted the pressures to be the same you would have to increase the volume capacity of the pump. In this case the pressure is not dropping enough to be of concern. It still provides enough pressure at idle and when you rev up, and its a positive displacement pump, the pressure will increase to appropriate levels again.

Does process west say how much extra oil you have to use when filling up? I fill 5 quarts for every oil change, so would I need to do 6 quarts with the oil cooler installed?

~ 1/2 qt.

I would like to add in my impressions of the kit. As in the primary write-up I too added it for "spirited driving" and have added a Defi oil temp and pressure gauge to the install. I live in the South and temps here are normally in the mid 80's(degrees Farenheit) or above. The temps without the cooler were normally in the 95-110 degrees Celcius, this is normal driving. Now, with the cooler installed I regularly see temps in the low to mid 80's(degrees Celcius). During a hard run at an autox(40-65seconds) I'll see temps climbing up to the previous 95-110 degrees Celcius.

I agree, that it does help.

As for the pressure dropping and needing a higher pressure pump, I don't think it's needed. I've run my car for full season of autox without any issues whatesoever.

Jose

Just wanted to add an install photo with the Process West FMIC. Fits perfectly and the bumper beam is even cut out for cooling.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Crazykevwrx/Picture1051.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Crazykevwrx/Picture1050.jpg

I have been running my oil cooler for over two years and it has performed great. Process West builds the highest quality products possible IMO. I run thier FMIC and CAI.

Awesome!

I've been running mine without the thermostat I said I was going to put in...the pressures only change if its pretty cold out (< 20-25*F) so I haven't needed it but I gotta get around to doing it. It has been sitting around for almost 7 months now waiting for install...

Yeah, it was 2 degrees here the other day and I was running about 6 lbs more pressure. I usually run at 80-81psi and it was at 87 or so. I did notice that at an idle it was at 30 psi where as it is usually 24psi.

I do let my car totally warm up when it gets this cold. I also run Amsoil European blend.

I have also been considering a Mocal T-stat.