This car actually is a Legacy L with the standard (no mods) EJ22E engine. The timing belt is reaching the 90K mark and it is going to replace soon.


Will the dealer also recommended to replace other parts beside the timing belt since it is nearby the engine areas? What is the total price usually a dealer will charge for labors and for parts?

Just wondering what should I do if the dealer suggested something that is totally unpredicatable (such as the ABS fluid need to be change because the engine timing was different, blah blah blah).

Usually the water pump is changed with the TP. In addition; idlers & tensioner should be carefull checks along with the crank & camshaft oil seals. Timing chain and WP. A Suby dealer cost will run ~$500. It is a 1&1/2 hour job for a good mechanic.

I think the price varies by location. My local stealership typically marks their parts up above list compared to buying OEM online from other dealers. (I think the dealer in Auburn Washington was the cheapest, I bought all my timing belt parts from them, all 'Subaru Genuine', less than list!) And then labor is 65.00/hour, which is pretty standard for dealers in SoCal.

You should replace the following with the timing belt, so as to avoid the labor for a simple fix later: (not just inspected, ask for the old parts as proof if you don't trust them)

- water pump
- camshaft seals
- crankshaft seal
- oil pump 'o' ring
- thermostat (+ gasket)

The above list is reasonable for a dealer to recommend. Also understand that any extras they find in there, like the idler pulley or tensioner are somewhat more expensive than the belt itself.

If you are not comfortable changing drive belts yourself (A/C, P/S, Alternator) then have them do those as well - they have to come off to get to the timing belt anyhow.

I did my own timing belt on my EJ22 along with everything listed above. The only trouble I had was with removing/reinstalling the crank pulley due to the 100+ pounds of torque it takes to tighten the bolt.

I also changed all my idler pulleys and the tensioner, and radiator hoses (including the ones for the transmission - 4EAT). Total cost of parts was just over 400.00. With my 4 hours of labor, I took my time and was careful, I saved big $$$. And now I understand my car better, too.

I did not change my belt until 110k, California model cars are all supposed to be changed at 100k. You still have time to research, plan, and learn how to do it yourself, if you are inclined.

If you have the dealer do the work, insect the drive belts if you had them replaced, and also make sure your radiator is not dinged up on the inside. The fins on the radiator are very easy to smash, and if the dealer did not cover or remove the radiator to do the work, they could have mashed the radiator. This is assuming they removed the fans. And I would also go for a test drive with the service manager you are working with - I have heard a few horror stories about belt changes gone wrong - car is sluggish, backfires, etc. That is worst case scenario, but if you are going to a 'combo' dealer like a Nissan/Hyundai/Subaru dealer, sometimes the mechanic is not a Subaru guy and could line the engine timing up wacky.

Best of luck,
Bill in SD

On the same engine, I also had to replace the O-rings between camshaft supports and cylinder heads (front left and rear right corners of the engine, same part). It's mentioned in one of the earler t-belt threads.
If this is being done for the first time on a car this old, be prepared to replace any of the rollers and the tensioner itself. The shop will likely have all those parts in stock. If doing it yourself, just get everything and replace it, 'cause you don't know what you'll find.