Got a ticket last night for no working tail lights. Went to change fuses today and they're all good. The bulbs are good. What is wrong?? There is absolutely no juice even going to the sockets that hold the running light bulbs (tail lights and sidemarker lights).

Recent installs: Prosport boost gauge, uppipe, cobb 2 reflash via openecu. But I'm pretty sure the lights have worked since that!

Any advice is greatly appreciated; i have places to be and I can't drive at night because of this problem! :mad:

bump: please help me someone, I'm desperate

UPDATE: Fixed!

Q: How'd the accident happen?
A: I removed the switch on the plastic steering wheel column so I could custom-fab a boost gauge mount to it without drilling holes (the screws would go through the opening). By removing the switch, the current is broken and none of the running lights work. Once the switch was popped back in, there were no problems. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else makes the same mistake!

NOTE: If anyone does this AND loses the switch, there are three brass tabs that the switch actuator rests on. Solder the two brass tabs furthest from you (the two closest to the front of the car) and you will have the same basic function of the switch when it is in the "off" position, meaning that your running lights/tail lights will come on when your headlights are on, and will turn off when the car is off, as opposed to staying on.

^I did that a long time ago. :lol: and after putting mine back in it is really loose so it doesn't take much to throw it off. I had taken mine out to mount a turbo timer. I have wisened up and that is gone so I popped the button back in. I actually got pulled about two weeks ago b/c it was off and I didn't realize it. Cop was real nice and I knew exactly what it was. I got off easy.

There is alittle ball bearing and a spring in there, I think. This probably holds it in place and gives it the "switching action."

I had to put a little screw in the switch to push out the brass actuator tab so it would be a tight fit. I had to grind the screw's head down a LOT as it's already pretty tight in there. The actuator tab sits on the screw's head.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one that made that mistake!

There should be a "dummy light" that comes on or something when tail-lights/running lights go out to avoid the whole fix-it ticket procedure.. Inventors? ;)

mine are doing the same thing the back ones dont work or the front ones i have diff head lights but this didnt happen for a long time after i installed them please help got to fix before i have to pay gay ticket

mine are doing the same thing the back ones dont work or the front ones i have diff head lights but this didnt happen for a long time after i installed them please help got to fix before i have to pay gay ticket

Check your fuses. The fuse panel is behind the little change compartment below the cruise control/foglight button. Refer to the diagram on the back of the change compartment (i think) for a schematic. I'm just guessing here, but maybe your fuse relays in the engine bay could be bad? Just a guess. Get a volt tester and see if any juice is going to the bulbs. Find where the connection stops. Check the switch on top of the steering wheel column. Is there a good connection?

Electrical problems are a PITA. Any qualified shop or suby dealer should be able to determine where the problem is. I don't *think* it would cost a lot, but I'd use them as a last resort.