Yep, tried to really make it a stealthy set-up. I have the pump mounted, the tank tapped, and nothing else done. More tomorrow.
Some pics...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/P1010023.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/P1010024.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/P1010027.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/P1010029-1.jpg

What a sick place to put it! Nice!

great setup!

oh damn! I didn't realize I coulda mounted the pump right there, I would have been worried about poking thru the body! :eek:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/djerickd/DSC01367.jpg

oh damn! I didn't realize I coulda mounted the pump right there, I would have been worried about poking thru the body! :eek:



I was worried too, so I drilled the holes on the top two mounting locations and put bolts through from the outside...that way I just screwed the washers/nuts on from the trunk-side....thereby negating any chance of poking through.

You're install looks very clean, though....great job with the side-liner behind the tank/pump!

.........................................

I originally tried to find a place up front for the pump, as I wanted to use the windshield washer tank. My plans were to connect the trunk-mounted I/C tank to the w/w tank and use it as a "refil-tank" when the w/w tank ran low.
I'll explain... When the w/w tank triggered the low-level sensor, I wanted it to trigger the trunk-mounted I/C tank pump to pump the gallon in the rear to the front. I have another level-sensor, ordered with the Snow kit, that I was going to use as a trigger to stop the I/C tank from pumping when the w/w tank was mostly full. Think of it as a dual-tank set-up.
Well, there really is little room to properly place the pump in the front of the car - I didn't want to mount it higher than the tank or in the engine compartment so I decided to just focus on the trunk. After a few thoughts of pulling the jack and mounting the pump in that location, and then mounting it in the spare-tire area...my friend asked me why it couldn't go next to the tank - where it is now? I said there wasn't room....he proved me wrong and I mounted it in what I believe is the best place for a nice/clean stealthy install. I didn't initially start out wanting to do a stealth-install, but I think I'm going to continue on this path.

One thing I really do want to do is to use the Spec-C tank as a supply tank for the I/C tank. Then I plan on rigging the I/C sprayer to come on when the Snow pump is triggered...that way I'll be spraying the outside of the I/C and spraying water/meth...at the same time. This will probably go through a big amount of fluid on the roadcourse...but I think the Spec-C tank and the I/C tank...connected via tubing...would be sufficient.

We'll see...

Be good,
TomK
__________________

Just put that in my car... I think I may take a different route on the pump mounting location than I have.

I need to get the sti trunk carpet to finish the install!

Ace, did you remove the bumper to get those bolts in place?

ace, how did you do the carpet like that?

ace, how did you do the carpet like that?

STi's come with the carpet like that for the intercooler tank

Just put that in my car... I think I may take a different route on the pump mounting location than I have.

I need to get the sti trunk carpet to finish the install!

Ace, did you remove the bumper to get those bolts in place?

No, I yanked the "vent" that sat just below the pump and threaded the bolts through there. I then used duct-tape and sealed the hole where the vent was.

Be good,
TomK

Isn't that "vent" for the bumper to stay attached?

lol no it's just a vent

nice install so far :banana:, keep us updated with the rest of the install. thanks Matt

I just used that location for my SMC pump... much better spot and the STi carpet will cover it up nicely. Thanks for posting up the location

awesome work

Filling will be tedious no?

Filling will be tedious no?

If you've ever seen an STi you'd know that the intercooler spray tank is the same one that is being used in this install. The carpet has a tab that can be lifted to fill the reservoir.

Received the Spec-C tank today. Beautiful piece, and no doubt it will be the tank I use. I wanted to run a dual-tank system, using a relay and low-level sensors to fill the stock i/c tank with the spec-c tank...but that's just a little toomuch for me to handle now - I think I should keep it simple and reliable. I do plan on having the i/c sprayer come on with the w/i spray, though. I'll try the 12liters of the spec-c tank first, before hooking up the stock tank and making it around 4gallons of fluid.

I should have the required nylon tubing tomorrow, so I'll work on installing the line and nozzle this weekend.

Be good,
TomK

you'll love the Spec-C tank. filling it is easy, just make a beer bong. big funnel and some big clear hosing from Home Depot. the girl at the register looked at me funny, when she asked what I was doing with it and I told her "pouring about 3 gallons of alcohol through it later tonight"

LMAO. How much did the Spec C tank run you?

With shipping... $177 from here:
http://www.rallispec.com/contact.htm

I received it in two days.

Be good,
TomK

is the tank baffled at all so it won't slosh around?

Internally baffled...not foam, but molded-baffles. It will still slosh around some but it shouldn't be an issue.

UPDATE:
The install is complete. The Spec-C tank is 1/3 filled with 50/50, the nozzle is in the intercooler...the controller is set to a very high MAF reading.
The reason the MAF is at a high reading is because the car is not tuned for the spray, yet. I did a "run" with the spray coming on at 3K rpm, just when the boost was kicking in....the car fell on it's face.
So I turned up the switching point so the spray doesn't come on until the car is about 5K RPM and fully boosting. Usually the car starts to give up the pull after 5.5K rpm, but not this time...with the spray coming on when the turbo is starting to give up, it holds the pull...the car really liked it. Now, I'm not saying it is more powerful at peak...it's not, but I wouldn't be surprised if there's a little more juice above 5500 rpm now - and it would only be for the reason of cooler intake/combustion chamber temps, as the car really does need a tune for this.

I went by my friends house and had him search for the meth kit...he couldn't find ANYTHING!!! I used electric wire covering for the red nylon tubing in the engine bay and I have everything but the Spec-C tank hidden behind the trunk covering. The controller is in the center console.

I also devised a pretty cool way to vent the tank to the outside, should I plan on running higher levels of meth in the future.

Be good,
TomK

TomK, hate to be a pest but what about pictures with the spec C tank in there now, final install.

I will be installing my snow kit pretty soon and thinking about doing the same set up. any small details needed about integrating that large tank in there? thanks Matt

Matt,
No issues with the pics...just no time'till next weekend, sorry about that. I will post up the pics, though.

The only thing I'd do differently, after having the whole thing done is a different way to mount the tap into the SpecC. I tapped the bottom of the tank and ran the hose just like everyone does, but I was thinking....
I could have certainly tapped the top of the tank, thereby eliminating a possibility of leaking, and ran the hose down into the bottom of the tank....just like a spray bottle does. It hit me like a ton of bricks, that moment of clarity...well, next time.

Also, don't forget to shield the tubing in the engine bay. Using the black plastic wire covering helps with the heat better than nothing, but dedicated sheilding like the stuff used for sparkplug wires would be the best.

Another note...using the available space in the center tunnel was great. There's plenty of room, a central location that's close to the ECU, fuse-box, and a great place to mount a controller...I'll put up a pic next weekend.

And - the plug that powers the pump and reads the low-level switch can be separated from the rest of the wires...without cutting and lengthening the wires...to power the Spec-C tank. It may be faster just to lengthen them, though.

I was also going to mount up a switch that would allow me to arm and disarm the system, but disconnecting the controller does the same thing.

I plan on adding a safety soon, that will monitor flow and perhaps trigger the boost solenoid when there's an issue. Having the safety ditch spark would be another great way...another great use for a relay!

Go slow, take your time and do it right. With a little investment of time/thought you'll be much happier than if you rush it.

thanks Tom, whenever you get around to the pictures thats great. I appreciate your time to respond to me. also thanks for sharing your install and tips about your experience.

Matt

Updated pics with Spec-C tank as feeder tank to stock IC tank (used as surge tank).

Here is the Spec-C tank, you can see the breather in the center of the tank with the black nylon tubing...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/AchillesKarateandMethKit005.jpg
Closer...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/AchillesKarateandMethKit003.jpg

Red tubing from Spec-C to the passenger corner, on it's way to the stock tank in the back...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/AchillesKarateandMethKit004.jpg

The stock tank in the back...the blue cap is sealed with Automotive Goop (methanol safe) to make the tank airtight...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/AchillesKarateandMethKit006.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/AchillesKarateandMethKit007.jpg
With cover on...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/P1010029-1.jpg


My controller, MAF triggered, mounted in the center console...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/AchillesKarateandMethKit008.jpg

The dyno from XXTuning showing my Cobb Stage2 map vs the Protune with meth....
http://xxtuning.com/customer/tom_pwr.JPG

Be good,
TomK

Looks good man, didn't expect you to follow through with that setup but it is nice

Thanks, a little more work than a normal install but at least I have some peace of mind knowing I'm not going to run out of liquid at the track.
I did a little bit of finishing work today -
-added a 90degree fitting to the Spec-C tank outlet
-inserted the 1/4 tube into a 3/8 nylon tube (with automotive goop to seal) and ran that tothe stock IC tank, that will increase the flow of the fluid. Blowing through the 5 feet of 1/4 hose has a good bit of restriction and gravity feed is quite slow. When I used the smaller tube, about 1 inch inserted into the larger tube and then into the other end, it's much easier to blow through and the gravity feed of the fluid is much more free-flow.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/002.jpg


The end result...
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/003.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/ace996/001.jpg

Overall, I'm very satisfied with the kit and the set-up. I look forward to adding the safe-injection.
I've also been speaking with Glenn of Prosport gauges (I use 6 of them currently) on adding a Meth-pressure gauge...even an oil-pressure gauge should work, so I'll absolutely know when there is pressure after the pump.

Be good,
TomK

dang that's a big tank

If you get the safe injection you can just buy there gauge that reads realtime flow.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g268/Irishman001/Methgauge.jpg

Hey,

I've been reading up on your setup with great interrest. I plan on doing a pretty simmilar thing, but I still have some questions... (warning: long story to follow ;) )

I will be using the aquamist 2d kit with dds3.

I noticed that you use a "gravity feed" method for getting the fluid from the spec c to the stock reservoir, why not just use the pump in the spec c tank, as it is unused in your current setup, correct?

I understand that it will need to know when to stop pumping, but that should be fairly easy to solve with another level switch in the small tank, to "read" when it's full and trigger a relay to "stop pumping".

So in short, small tank runs empty, triggers the oem level indicator, which is the trigger for the spec c pump to start flowing, until the small tank's "full" switch is triggered.

Are you using the small tank's pump to prime the WI pump?

Another question I had is, I read you "plugged" the hole in the cap of the small tank, did you do the same with the spec c's cap? With the venting sollution you made, that cap could be plugged, right?

The biggest difference between your and my setup is that I have a wagon, so I have to get a bit more creative as to how to mount the spec c tank, and especially how to make it removable, as I would like to keep my wagon funcionality to transport stuff.

That's why I liked your idea with the two tanks, as I would always have a backup tank. I could probably put some quick connects in the hose that runs from spec c to the small tank, but I'm now wondering what would happen if the tank runs empty and sends the signal for more fluid...

Probably nothing, since it merely triggers a relay, and if nothing happens, so be it, it will just run out of juice, and my tune will be messed up ;)

Sorry for the elaborate story...

Will work for answers

love the install...thats one of my favorite parts of meth is that you can hide the system so well...

Sorry for the delay, I've been looking at 996TTs... not yet.

Answers in red below...

Hey,

I've been reading up on your setup with great interrest. I plan on doing a pretty simmilar thing, but I still have some questions... (warning: long story to follow ;) )

I will be using the aquamist 2d kit with dds3.

I noticed that you use a "gravity feed" method for getting the fluid from the spec c to the stock reservoir, why not just use the pump in the spec c tank, as it is unused in your current setup, correct?
No. The pump is used for the intercooler spray, the small tank's pump is plugged.
I understand that it will need to know when to stop pumping, but that should be fairly easy to solve with another level switch in the small tank, to "read" when it's full and trigger a relay to "stop pumping".
Yep... an idea I played with in my mind but chose not to dueto it being a much more complicated system and for a reason I'll explain below
So in short, small tank runs empty, triggers the oem level indicator, which is the trigger for the spec c pump to start flowing, until the small tank's "full" switch is triggered.

Are you using the small tank's pump to prime the WI pump?
No need, as the WI pump's pickup is about 4 inches from the tank and below the "gravity-threshold". Using the little pump to prime the WI pump is usually done when the WI pump is mounted in the front when the tank is in the rear....not needed in my use.
Another question I had is, I read you "plugged" the hole in the cap of the small tank, did you do the same with the spec c's cap? With the venting sollution you made, that cap could be plugged, right?
Yes, and itshould be plugged to eliminate fumes
The biggest difference between your and my setup is that I have a wagon, so I have to get a bit more creative as to how to mount the spec c tank, and especially how to make it removable, as I would like to keep my wagon funcionality to transport stuff.

That's why I liked your idea with the two tanks, as I would always have a backup tank. I could probably put some quick connects in the hose that runs from spec c to the small tank, but I'm now wondering what would happen if the tank runs empty and sends the signal for more fluid...

Probably nothing, since it merely triggers a relay, and if nothing happens, so be it, it will just run out of juice, and my tune will be messed up ;)

Sorry for the elaborate story...
No worries, it's a good story...

OK...so why did I leave the system "gravity-fed"?
On a racetrack, with g-forces being quite violent and the meth system being called on for quite a bit of time, the fluid in the small tank is going to be depleted somewhat quickly. It may, and I'm only guessing here, may be possible for the fluid to be "g-forced" towards the left side of the tank, leaving the right-sided bulkhead fitting that feeds the meth pump fluid without fluid, and the pump then sucks air...causing it to lose prime and fail to function properly.
With my set-up, using the smaller tank as a surge tank...like a collector tank...the pump should never lose it's feed of fluid. This is because the smaller tank's level will not go down until the big 12liter tank is empty. This should notbe an issue with 20-30 minute sessions on the roadcourse.

I also did not want to add any more complexity with relay's or an additional low-level switch or another powered pump. Believe me, I love your idea and really thought about doing it but the KISS principle is often a good way to go.

Best of luck to you on your system. Just remember to take your time and think things through 4 to 5 times before you drill/tap/cut.

Be good,
TomK

Nice ..... and stealthy

Good Job