It looks like there are a couple of us that have running H6 -> Impreza swaps and a couple more working on it. I thought it was time to start a Q/A type thread for this type of swap. It has its own distinct difficulties that don't get discussed in the many STi -> *.* threads. This thread should also serve as a forum for those of us that learn something significant to share it with others.

So, what do you want to know?

Also, this should help keep individual's threads focused on their own cars and keep them from getting too far off topic.

Lesson #1 for me: The EZ30 requires two radiator fans to stay cool when parked and running. There isn't really space for this, but make room. Before I added the second fan, I routinely saw water temperatures of 220 and the car was always hottest parked at idle. After the second fan was installed, I hardly ever see 210.

Andy Howe
'96 Impreza Brighton
EZ30(R) running AVLS but AVCS is disconnected due to lack of tuning

I'm in the middle of a slow moving EG33 swap into a 95 Brighton Coupe with Megasquirt Engine Management. This tread has been needed for a longgg time. Good to see all the H6 movement lately, it will be nice to have other Guinea pigs to exchange ideas with.

Joe in NH

I suspect the EG33 is going to be a much more common swap than the EZ30. The engines are cheaper to source and there is much more known about the tuning of these engines. On the other hand, the EG33 is longer than the EZ30, further complicating the spatial conflicts at the front of the engine bay.

On my car, the radiator just barely fits in the stock location. What sort of chassis modifications are required to fit the EG33 in a GM/GC/GF chassis? Given the extra length of the EG33 (vs. the EZ30), did you have to relocate the radiator farther forward? Anyone?

First, chuck the AC....After much Ebay browsing of hundreds of different sized and shaped radiators I found what I THINK will work nice in a stock EG33 application. The Radiator from a Saab 900 Turbo (80's and early 90's) fits nicely BETWEEN the upper and lower crossbeams and has the correct locations for the inlet and outlet. This is a used parts only swap (i.e. wife approved) so custom stuff is not in the option list. The Saab had a similar BPH level so I think it will work.
Next is two SPAL 11 or 12" pusher fans. They have a model that is 2.05" wide in the center and only 1" on the edges. I'm planning on notching 1" from the rear side of the bumper beam for the center rear of each fan. The beam should still be in good shape....Theoretically anyway. I gained 5 or 6" with the AC dump/new Rad position. I have pics that I'll post as soon as I'm qualified to do so. Did I mention this was all happening very slowly?

Joe in NH

For the EG, the stock Impreza rad will fit under the rad support header after you cut out the top of the lower rail.....signifigantly. I fear that the OE Impreza rad would be insufficient for street use, but mine will only be running for minuets at a time......

Thanks for the thread Andy! Is there enough place in front of the EZ30R to keep the a/c in fonction in my impreza?

Thanks, J.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2602000-2602999/2602867_61_full.jpg
I used the stock Legacy (EJ22) radiator and I have never run a temp of no more then 200' F. I had to move the radiator forward a good 4 inches or so and installed pusher radiator fans. I lost my hood release and latch from pushing the radiator forward so I installed hood pins (legal in my parts) to keep the hood closed and latched. I also had to take 2 inches or so off the bumper to fit the pusher fans. Other then that the EG33 fit into place nicely. I had to drop the AC! there was no way to keep it, just no way! It wasn't worth any more bumper loss over it. I use the stock ECU and ECU wire harness (stripped of everything but the ECU control wires). This project took me about 350-400 hours to complete. Was it worth it? Definitely! :devil:
Oh a link to the video of it currently.
EG33 running In my 94 Legacy (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3957559697328709643&q=EG33&total=2&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=0)
~Jedz

I'd prefer to keep this an Impreza focused thread... but good to see one method of fitting the EG33 and the compromises that were required.

Regarding the EZ30 and AC... There is ample room for the condenser in front of the radiator. I'm not sure about fitting lines to and from the pump, however. I've kept my radiator in the OE location (using a stock EZ30R radiator, that is) and the condenser could still fit under the upper radiator support like stock. Given the snug fit between the engine and the radiator, it may be difficult to get a satisfactory fitting of the AC hoses. I never tried.

First major difference between the EG33 and the EZ30: I kept the radiator in the stock location and was able to use two pull fans. Its tight, but it fits.

Edit: In my experience, mounting the engine and radiator in the car is the EASY part of the EZ30(R) swap. Engine management, wiring and throttle body seem to be the sticking points. This comes from the complex engine management required for the EZ30R and its drive by wire throttle body. For what its worth, I used a cable throttle body... but that has its own pitfalls. It requires a TB adapter plate as well as fittings for a cable throttle.

Sorry about that didn't know it was an exclusive Impreza thread. I though my input could be valued, for the 94 Legacy engine bay is no that dissimilar to that of an Impreza of the same year.

^ I think the early Legacy's like yours are helpful. You have to solve most of the same problems we're faced with.

My statement about keeping this focused on Imprezas was more general in nature. I just don't want this to be a parade of "I swapped an H6 into *.*" thread.

Andy

I don't really see a difference between the impreza and lagacy...its a subaru and therefore like lego's...
you wanted and H6 swap thread, so by ALL means, have one.

Well, I finally dropped the engine in last night (by myself). I needed about 1 more inch of space to do it without moving the tranny back.....so instead I neatly hack sawed the top from cross beam just between the head lights, bent it forward an inch and .....dropped in no problem.

I'm going to be working on the radiator, cooling lines, intake tract and megasquirt stuff....slowly!

Some Photos

Car is a 95 Impreza Coupe
Engine 92 SVX
Entire Rearend from 05 Impreza Sedan (frame, sus, diff, brakes, stuts...)
Seats 98 Legacy GT
Springs 04 STI
Exhaust custom to 03 WRX Catback
Backup Tranny for when the Stock one breaks (98 Forester)
Front Brakes from 06 Legacy i
Clutch Exedy STG1
Radiator Saab 900 Turbo
Wheels 05 Legacy GT

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560274113GEKTnl

Joe

I don't really see a difference between the impreza and lagacy...its a subaru and therefore like lego's...
you wanted and H6 swap thread, so by ALL means, have one.
With all due respect... parts aren't parts here. An inch here or there means a lot when trying to shove an H6 (particularly an EZ30) into an Impreza. If there's even one extra inch between the front axle and the radiator, its important. It can drastically change the amount of work required from one swap to another.

My goal is to give people a place to ask and answer... Have at it!

(But the first person that offers their advice after swapping an EZ30 into an '04 Legacy Outback gets a bitchslap. ;) )

I installed two Permacool 10" pusher fans. I really didn't see any room for puller fans even without the AC condenser. I used a 1st gen EZ30 radiator.

Mick

(But the first person that offers their advice after swapping an EZ30 into an '04 Legacy Outback gets a bitchslap. )
LOL indeed :lol:

(But the first person that offers their advice after swapping an EZ30 into an '04 Legacy Outback gets a bitchslap. ;) )
I don't think it would even fit, man.

After how long it took me to build my car, I was hesitant to contribute to this thread. But, my car isn't a typical swap anyway you look at it. The conversion isn't so much that its hard to do, but the big question is .....is it really worth it? It makes more power than a stock WRX swap and at lower RPMs. I think the bigger question is, What will you do with the car when its done? If you are interested in a WRX swap and will never mod it, consider the H6. If you have plans for more power, IMO, you can make more power for less money than having the parts made for the H6. I see 400+ WHP wrx's every day...try to get 400WHP from an H6......a little more money unless you have some really good resources or sponsors. I'm just saying be honest with yourself when you figure out your end goal and stick to it....just like any other build......again, just my .02

96 Impreza L 5spd EG33


I didn't need to cut the upper radiator core support to drop the EG in....and I installed mine WITH the trans attached. The reason I cut mine was because of the relocation of the radiator. If I had the time to wait, I could have had one easily made to fit.

Like stated above, getting the engine in the car is BY FAR the easiest part.

So, to put all of the myths to rest......any Subaru H6 will physically fit in an Impreza.

Air conditioning can be retained but you may need to have some custom lines made and get creative with their routing.

Have a custom rad made. Make it easy on yourself! (EG33)

engine and trans mounts......(EG33) the STi Group N are needed and for the more bold, just use solid mounts. The OE 2.0/2.2/2.5 mounts bolt up to the engine with no mods.

Wiring.......same answer as any other swap. Get the diagrams, tag the wires to be left, the wires to be spliced and the wires to go. Check a couple of times and weed them away! Not for the faint of heart. Not that its too hard, just a little scarry to see such a big pile of unused wiring.....which BTW, don't throw away until your definately done with the conversion.

^ Agreed in every way.

I chose the H6 due to rules limitations (an AWD car with a 3.0L NA engine is allowed to be lighter 110 pounds than with a 2.0L FI engine). I also compete in a form of motorsports where throttle response is absolutely everything.

Bottom line: An H6 swap is not something I would recommend for everyone.

Why EZ30 or EZ30R? These engines are lighter, I believe, than the EG33. They are definitely shorter than the EG33 and, thus, have fewer fitment issues and better weight distribution (less weight waaaay out on the nose). The EZ30R has AVLS and will allow the use of two cam profiles. It also will allow variable cam timing if you go through the effort to hook up the AVCS as well. At this time, engine management is the sticking point for the AVCS... if your ECU won't do AVCS closed loop, you'll spend a lot of time doing tuning. I my completely under-educated opinion, the EZ30 has all the same potential for power as the EG33, with less weight. The downside is significantly more wiring to get there.

EZ30 engine mounts: the stock EZ30 mounts will mount in your Impreza. The OE mounts for the R variant are plastic and WILL break. I had a pair of STi Group N mounts custom modified to fit the EZ30 (engine side of the mount is different than the EJ series engines).

I agree that the performance potential for the EZ series engines will, by far, out perform the EG engine only because of the newness and the advances in technology on the EZ. The EZ'a WILL eventually be much easier to procure as there are many more in production in different models. The ECU manufactures will find a way to make this an easier swap in the future.

IMO, the guys with the H6 swaps that are running the EZ30 engines are the pioneers here (howe, slack....). Yes, there are 700+ WHP EG33 cars out there (rigoli) so I know that can be done. I just cant wait to see what the EZ30s are REALLY capable of. How far did Perrin get with theirs? I heard they gave up on developing the car any further.

I see your point about the weight, however, After I drove Joshs 2.5RS DSP car, I found that the car has WAAAAY too much understeer for me. I'm hoping that the extra 40# (which is the differance in my particular application) will help make the car behave more like a RWD. (I grew up driving muscle cars)

BTW...I guess we should start planning an H6- Impreza meet?

hehehehehehhhehe

Don't make that too soon or most of us will need a trailer to attend. :lol:

Joe

hehehe Myself included!

Actually, I am going up to the shop in a few to see if we can get it driving tonight...we'll see. I have tomorrow to work on it as well. I'm hoping to test on Sat if all goes well.

Yeah, let's wait till a few of us get our cars running. Make sure you invite Anders Green since he was the first sucker, I mean pioneer. ;)

Mick

IF Legacies are allowed to attend I'm game...and yeah she's ready when your ready! :D

Yeah, let's wait till a few of us get our cars running. Make sure you invite Anders Green since he was the first sucker, I mean pioneer. ;)

Mick


Agreed! Cant have a meet without the pioneers like Howe and yourself. BTW, how is yours doing? Yours is the project in particular that inspired me to do mine.

Tentative time and place: Kansas in September 2008.

'Cause I'll likely take my car to Solo Nationals in September 2008. 'Cause it gives everyone some time to get their cars together. And 'cause its in the middle of the country.

if you want a real cool radiator setup that'll also cool things down...do what i did...since the eg33 engine is much longer.... i custom a radiator to fit the bottom and it looks like a FMIC! lol....people think im turbo! haha but yes...thats what i did

and thats how mine will turn out as well. Really the right way to do it IMO

Im considering an EG33 into an 1993 Impreza L which I plan to make into a mock WRX with paint and decals. I just like the look... but I also like the idea of a swap that not many folks have tackled. One thing I'd like to learn about is going to a forced induction EG33. Can the EG33 handle forced induction?

As has already been said, you'll be using a TMIC. The radiator goes where you would fit a FMIC. Overall, buy yourself a shoehorn. That's the most stuff I can imagine shoving into an Impreza engine bay. :) Are you going to swap the car to AWD? (Weren't all 93's FWD?)

So, for the benefit of the masses... does anyone have any advice on what sort of spatial issues are presented by a EG33 turbo? Is there enough space for the up-pipe and down pipe? Does the turbo Impreza cross member help at all or is that completely irrelevant?

I believe that the powertrain part of a boosted EG33 has been covered elsewhere. Any links to those posts?

have you guys ever thought of making a smaller a/c core that can fit somewhere else so that a/c can be retained? anyone know whats involved with that?

and let see some swapped PICS!

Weren't all 93's FWD?

no.


So, for the benefit of the masses... does anyone have any advice on what sort of spatial issues are presented by a EG33 turbo? Is there enough space for the up-pipe and down pipe? Does the turbo Impreza cross member help at all or is that completely irrelevant?
well the room in the back left corner of the engine bay is the same as any other ej series motor, its the front thats different. so the turbo itself would fit, but the custom headers would be something else. they also exit the motor in the same place as any other ej, but theres 3 pipes, so theres something a little different to deal with.

if i were doing it i would do a air/water intercooler so that it can be placed anywhere and can be smaller than a FMIC.

My 1993 Impreza L is AWD. The one I am buying as a project is also AWD.
In the end I hope this EG33 swap works out for the best. I intend on giving the first Impreza to my wife (she has already claimed it anyway) and the second with the EG33 for myself.

Here is some information on EG33 swaps and turbos in aircraft applications:

http://linaracing.com/impreza-h6-conversion-faq.php
http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000405
http://sdsefi.com/aircraft.html

There is a bunch of other information on the EG33 being used in aircraft and even twin turbo applications.

has anyone used a different 5th gear to take advantage of the extra power and get better highway gas mileage?

Different 5th gear than what? You make it sound like there's a standard for swaps like this. :p

I've gone quite the opposite direction, actually. My car turns 3500 rpms (more or less) at 70mph. But I didn't build it for the highway.

this project i am doing isnt expected to get good fuel economy.... if I get 10mpg im happy... isnt any different then my land cruiser.
im building it for one purpose and thats to go fast and look good doing it.


Also another thread on a Subaru SVX Turbo:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/771596

Different 5th gear than what? You make it sound like there's a standard for swaps like this. :p

I've gone quite the opposite direction, actually. My car turns 3500 rpms (more or less) at 70mph. But I didn't build it for the highway.

i mean that most people are using early imprezas that came with low power motors originally. because of the low power they had pretty short gear ratios that kept the rpms up so that it had the power to move properly. a high torque eg33 doesnt need to run at 4000 rpm on the highway, probably like 2500. i know that at least one of the 5spd swaps for svx's comes with a longer 5th gear so that it can run those low rpms on the highway.
so i was wondering if anyone had used a gear like that in place of their 5th gear so that they can have good cruising gas mileage.

In my opinion, the EZ30R won't be happy at 2500rpms with a tall 5th gear. 2800 - 3000 is more like it. I'd guess that the EG33 has a little more torque down that low and could pull 2500 - 2800 rpms pretty easily.

For reference, I believe the correct transmission for my EZ30R is a STi RA close ratio gearset with a 3.90 final drive. This will net about 3200rpms at 70 miles per hour and let me carry 2nd gear to close to 70 miles per hour (my goal for autocross!). I'm currently running the close ratio gearset with the original 4.44 final drive and its just too short.

In my opinion, the EZ30R won't be happy at 2500rpms with a tall 5th gear. 2800 - 3000 is more like it. I'd guess that the EG33 has a little more torque down that low and could pull 2500 - 2800 rpms pretty easily.

For reference, I believe the correct transmission for my EZ30R is a STi RA close ratio gearset with a 3.90 final drive. This will net about 3200rpms at 70 miles per hour and let me carry 2nd gear to close to 70 miles per hour (my goal for autocross!). I'm currently running the close ratio gearset with the original 4.44 final drive and its just too short.
What about a PPG helical synchro box w/ a 3.90 FD?

The PPG helical syncro box should not be mated to a 3.90 FD if you're autocrossing, IMO. The gaps between ratios is too great and 2nd gear is simply too tall. You'll be trying to row first and second gears but finding a 40% ratio change cramping your style. Nay, the PPG ratios are pretty poor for autocross. For those building track monsters, it does bridge the gap to the RA 5th gear rather nicely.

IMO, the RA close ratio 5-speed gear set will be strong enough for the NA EZ30R and afford 70 miles per hour in second gear (with a slightly increased redline). The reality is that I'll be running 25.5 inch tall tires to get the tire width that I need.

Finally, price is a concern. PPG = ouch!

The PPG helical syncro box should not be mated to a 3.90 FD if you're autocrossing, IMO. The gaps between ratios is too great and 2nd gear is simply too tall. You'll be trying to row first and second gears but finding a 40% ratio change cramping your style. Nay, the PPG ratios are pretty poor for autocross. For those building track monsters, it does bridge the gap to the RA 5th gear rather nicely.

IMO, the RA close ratio 5-speed gear set will be strong enough for the NA EZ30R and afford 70 miles per hour in second gear (with a slightly increased redline). The reality is that I'll be running 25.5 inch tall tires to get the tire width that I need.

Finally, price is a concern. PPG = ouch!
I didn't see it was for autocross. I am building a track car that is why I mentioned it.

Sorry again.

On the EG33 swapped cars, a turbo will go exactly where it would on an EJ__.

You could run a smaller A/C condenser from a Honda, you'd just need custom lines made..no big deal and not that expensive. Hood clearance may be an issue.

On that note, my SVX ps pump pulley barely hits the hood. I'm running a cf hood, so its clearancing its self.

For auto-x, get a front LSD before you even start! On my brief initial pass, I lit the inside front tire on the first turn.....nice and smokey!

My 96L trans took a pretty hard 1-2 shift with no issues. I thought the trans would be the weak link, as it turned out, it was the rear diff!

About the radiator, If your going to race the car and have the engine in and out quite a bit, IMO, cut the top out of the rad support and make it a bolt in piece. If your running on the street, put the custom rad in first and protect it with a piece of masonite or thick cardboard. Otherwise, you'll pull your hair out trying to get it in there. Been there done that!

has anyone tried mounting the LSD svx rear diff and getting a tranny with a front diff to match it?
the svx rear end is 3.454 (or 3.545?) but i'm not sure if it sits off-center like most older rear ends, or if the splines on the axles are the same count as most older impreza rear ends. it may also need clearance work to fit, i'm not sure if the r160 rear end drops into early imprezas or not.

Front and rear are both 3.545:1 on the SVX

I AM running an SVX rear diff but changed the r&p to a 3.90 to match my front diff and for the better acceleration. (BTW, the R&P from the 02-early 03 rear r&p fit the SVX diff). The diff housing bolts in with no problems except one.....you have to use SVX CV shafts...but wait.......the SVX rear CV shafts wont fit the Impreza hubs :eek: figure THAT one out! I did it and no, I didn't change the CV end (can't...tried) Just find an LSD that has the same ratio as your front diff from an Impreza and your set. On my car, there is soo much going on that has nothing to do with the actual swap but in my case, had everything to do with it so, sometimes it's hard to seperate what needs to be done vs what I actually did.

Bottom line is, if you start with an AWD standard trans, the EG33 bolts up and forget about it! If you need an LSD, get one from the same source any other Impreza would....it's the same thing. The actual drivetrain (trans, driveshaft and rear diff) don't need to be touched until you start pushing what they can handle...@300WHP IIRC.....or you run a set up like mine.

One other tip.......cage the car! I got several reports from some VERY reliable people that saw the car twist from the viewing area.....probably led to my rear diff breaking.......juuuuust a sugestion for handling and parts reliability.

^ I wondered about the cage bit... I'll have to ask around at my local events to see if anyone has noticed the same on my car.

In my opinion, the EZ30R won't be happy at 2500rpms with a tall 5th gear. 2800 - 3000 is more like it. I'd guess that the EG33 has a little more torque down that low and could pull 2500 - 2800 rpms pretty easily.

For reference, I believe the correct transmission for my EZ30R is a STi RA close ratio gearset with a 3.90 final drive. This will net about 3200rpms at 70 miles per hour and let me carry 2nd gear to close to 70 miles per hour (my goal for autocross!). I'm currently running the close ratio gearset with the original 4.44 final drive and its just too short.

Why not a 4.11 final drive for auto-X?

Does an sti 6 spd be better for highway, gas millage?

J.

On the EG33 swapped cars, a turbo will go exactly where it would on an EJ__.

You could run a smaller A/C condenser from a Honda, you'd just need custom lines made..no big deal and not that expensive. Hood clearance may be an issue.

On that note, my SVX ps pump pulley barely hits the hood. I'm running a cf hood, so its clearancing its self.

For auto-x, get a front LSD before you even start! On my brief initial pass, I lit the inside front tire on the first turn.....nice and smokey!

My 96L trans took a pretty hard 1-2 shift with no issues. I thought the trans would be the weak link, as it turned out, it was the rear diff!

About the radiator, If your going to race the car and have the engine in and out quite a bit, IMO, cut the top out of the rad support and make it a bolt in piece. If your running on the street, put the custom rad in first and protect it with a piece of masonite or thick cardboard. Otherwise, you'll pull your hair out trying to get it in there. Been there done that!

my friend blew the rear diff on his 95L dragging it, his was a turbo car..

guess ill be replacing mine when i boost it again:banana:

Why not a 4.11 final drive for auto-X?

Does an sti 6 spd be better for highway, gas millage?

J.

the sti 6th gear has about the same ratio as the wrx 5th, its just that the gears in between are closer together to keep the rpms in the power band.

i just plugged the numbers into a gear ratio calculator:

The 2.2L 4.1 rear diff with a .78 5th gear will cruise at 3100rpms at 75mph.
The svx 3.545 rear end with a .78 5th gear will cruise at 2800rpms at 75mph.
Going from the .78 5th gear from the 2.2 to the .738 5th gear from the wrx only saves you 150rpm at 75mph.

In my opinion, the EZ30R won't be happy at 2500rpms with a tall 5th gear. 2800 - 3000 is more like it. I'd guess that the EG33 has a little more torque down that low and could pull 2500 - 2800 rpms pretty easily.

I think that would change slightly when you got the AVCS tuned on your car, Andy. Just from looking at the stock torque curve, it has ~175ft/lbs at 1600rpm! That's 10 more than 2.5RS' peak torque, which is no slouch. Am I totally off base here?


Mick

The H6 revs pretty quick so IMO, running a 4.11 or 4.44 would force you to make a 2-3 shift on faster courses or be into the rev limiter for a little too long. The 3.90 should be fine. Also, it seems the 3.90 helps keep low rpm wheel spin to a minimum although I still got some and again, I wasn't really on it. The front 1.5 diff will be key too.

Oh...for those wondering, I have virtually no more AWD push! Instead, the car seemed to pivot...a nice feeling but, I'm sure my set-up will kill tires, I'll have to do MUCH more testing.

It's looking like sept 9th will be the next test day for us.

I am so tempted to do this now for my track car.

I have someone that can do wiring for me and I can fab a new radiator myself.

I can fab a new radiator myself.



Reeeaaaalllllyyyyyyy........we may need to talk! I need a larger core than the original 1.8L core! I can't idle in line for very long right now....Florida heat is a killer!

Reeeaaaalllllyyyyyyy........we may need to talk! I need a larger core than the original 1.8L core! I can't idle in line for very long right now....Florida heat is a killer!
LOL...

Yeah I used to fab up ones for RX7's when I built them. It would probably look like a front mount since that would get the most air flow.

What kind of pricing are we talking? Very interested.....

Great thread Andy, it's about time you posted this up.:)

You are one of the pioneers with your set up..

Did you mention 3:90 w/ the RA gearset?? I know a guy that just put something like that in his GC and it works quite well..;) That would probably work the best for your beast.

Still want that ride when our paths cross at an event..:eek:

Mick - you're not totally off base, but remember there are two parts: Torque x Gear Ratio. To turn 2500 at 70 miles per hour would be pulling a substantially taller gear than the 2.5RS 5th. I don't question the engine's torque (mine makes peak RS torque at less than 2k... even at the very beginning)

Barrett - you need to be in here too... you figured out most of the how to of fitment of my car. I'm just working out the bugs. :) And yes... 3.90 w/ the RA gearset is, I think, the right answer.

Andy

On the EG33 swapped cars, a turbo will go exactly where it would on an EJ__.

You could run a smaller A/C condenser from a Honda, you'd just need custom lines made..no big deal and not that expensive. Hood clearance may be an issue.

On that note, my SVX ps pump pulley barely hits the hood. I'm running a cf hood, so its clearancing its self.

For auto-x, get a front LSD before you even start! On my brief initial pass, I lit the inside front tire on the first turn.....nice and smokey!



So, where did you get a front LSD??:confused:

So, where did you get a front LSD??:confused:
<psst>The Moose usually has some.</psst off>

^^^^^ true, I think he is selling one now.

I don't have one YET....Josh has the OBX one and loves it....

cueauto and wagonL,

My 95 Pwr Steering lines don't reach to the mount points, nor does it look like the hood would close with the 95 pump in it. I'm assuming you both have eg33 units. My question is from which point did you connect the lines (down by the rack or up by the pump?) Custom or legos like usual?

Turned it over for the first time today!!!! (no ign or fuel yet, but progress)

Also just to confirm, what is the firing order as viewed from the radiator?

Thanks

jezzeppi

I know this is an Impreza only thread but...
I found it easier to connect the PS lines at the pump not at the rack. The pump barely fits... but it fits.

I found that I was grounding a wire that shouldn't have been grounded. It was a black ignition wire that looked like a ground...It wasn't it was a power wire. Put a hot when on wire to it and the car fired up. I also ran a direct power line from the battery to the pump with a toggle switch...seems to work for me I was having problems getting the Fuel pump relay to work.

The firing order if your looking at the engine from the radiator its front left (1) then to the back right (6) then to middle left (3) to front right (2) then back left (5) to middle right (4).
Hope that helps good luck!

~Jedz

I used the PS pump and resivor from the SVX and my Impreza PS lines juuuust reached.

On another note, I am cutting some 1/8" steel to weld my motor and trans mounts solid. I do have a touch of contact between my hood and PS pulley....not a big deal though. I think it only touches when the engine torques over...

What is every one using to latch down there hoods?

I was unable to reuse the stock hood latching system (no room with the pusher radiator fans). I found that hood pins have allowed me to keep the hood closed and latched.

Hood pins........

The beauty of the EZ30... stock latch. :)

In reality, you could use the stock latch....bit of work but it could be done. I have a carbon hood and they should be pinned regardless of whether or not there is a factory latch. But I'm sure the EZ30 would cause waaayyy less headaches as far as those type of fitment issues are concerned...

So, which "Moose" might have a front LSD for sale, I see there are several members that have "Moose" in their site names?
thanks!

cueauto and wagonL,

My 95 Pwr Steering lines don't reach to the mount points, nor does it look like the hood would close with the 95 pump in it. I'm assuming you both have eg33 units. My question is from which point did you connect the lines (down by the rack or up by the pump?) Custom or legos like usual?

Turned it over for the first time today!!!! (no ign or fuel yet, but progress)

Also just to confirm, what is the firing order as viewed from the radiator?

Thanks

jezzeppi


i actually just use my stock 95 ps...just pretty much bent the metal lines a bit towards the bumper and it fits! haha well the hood did have a problem with the fitment but i chopped that area off...(weight reduction!! 5ounces!! :P) but yes...thats what i did...

well if anyone is interested....im actually at work so i cant do too much with the net...

http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19079

i used fuji_k's cell phone video recorder to tape my exhaust..and how it sounds with the eg33...

the lighten crank pulley and the 10.4lbs X-ACT flywheel makes it rev pretty fast! and it sounds very ferrariish...sounds very exotic! and i love the sound of it...

The car sounds super good, any more details about the exhaust manifold, muffler, piping size, etc.?

Hey guys,
Im in the process of getting rid of my twin turbo Legacy GTB motor and putting an EZ30R in its place. Im pretty sure i have everything sorted (even the ECU side). One of the last things i need to sort out is the throttle body.

For those that have swapped the throttle bodies from the standard electrical one to a mechanical one, what throttle body did you use, and how much effort did it take to hook up to the intake manifold? Im trying to find the lazyest option (i prefer to call it effiecent though :D)

Thanks

Hey guys,
Im in the process of getting rid of my twin turbo Legacy GTB motor and putting an EZ30R in its place. Im pretty sure i have everything sorted (even the ECU side). One of the last things i need to sort out is the throttle body.

For those that have swapped the throttle bodies from the standard electrical one to a mechanical one, what throttle body did you use, and how much effort did it take to hook up to the intake manifold? Im trying to find the lazyest option (i prefer to call it effiecent though :D)

Thanks
I used the 04 H6 throttle body. ECS made an adapter for it to fit onto the 05+ manifold.

http://www.eastcoastswappers.com/hosted%20pics/Mick%20McNeal/Mick%20(6).jpg

Slack, how is your car doing? I haven't seen too much on it. I hope all is well with it..........

I used the 04 H6 throttle body. ECS made an adapter for it to fit onto the 05+ manifold.

http://www.eastcoastswappers.com/hosted%20pics/Mick%20McNeal/Mick%20(6).jpg

thats nuts... Can't do that on the EG33 though.. Twin throttle

Cueauto- I don't know. I will try to get ahold of Paul today and find out. I haven't had much time to even worry about it lately, because I'm too busy trying to fix my pos bimmer.

I'm too busy trying to fix my pos bimmer.




Heheheheheh.....I am having trouble with my RENNtech CLK as well....damn German cars....everythings price STARTS at $500.00!!!!!

Mine is electrical....go figure. The whole left side of the cars exterior lighting is out.....ARGHHHHHH!!!!!

I always thought bimmers weren't as bad when it comes to electrical issues, but after just looking over the relay/fuse table, I really have to wonder what kind of drugs the engineers were using when they designed them.

Plus I've only ever worked on Subaru's before, so everything is so different with my e30.

Slack, on a Suby note, The engine you used is out of what?

We may have another project car looming and we found out the Legacy Outback cmae with a 30R....if his car goes H6, it has to be that engine.....

I am guessing that it came out of a jdm legacy 3.0R or outback. Gruppe-s said it was never in a car, but after examining the engine I am not so sure.

What MY Outback are you talking about? The higher powered ez30 wasn't available in the USDM till MY2005.

IIRC it was an 01-03. There is a reasoning here otherwise I'd sugest doing an EG as I am more familiar with them.

Dunno, have to look on car-part to see whats out there. That and I'm not wanting to deal with the drive-by-wire or immobilizer

I hear that. I wish I had never heard of an immobilizer.

so i know i asked this on the last page, but what is needed to get the svx lsd rear diff working in an early impreza? i could just go find another one as suggested, but i have an opportunity to take what is needed from a svx parts car and i could get the rear end really really cheap. any help?

....fitting the SVX rear diff into the Impreza isn't the problem. The problem is that the SVX rear axles won't fit the Impreza hubs (at least on mine it didn't...I had rear drums). I would look for another rear LSD that has the gearing that matches whatever trans your using out of an Impreza and call it a day.

I went the hard (read expensive) route of making my own rear suspension kit.

BTW, you can not swap CV ends between the Impreza and SVX...mabe the STi axles but I couldn't on my 96L.

I know that isn't what you wanted to hear....I hated to find out the hard way.....trying to help you avoid some headaches!

i hear ya, thanks for the info.
do you, or anyone else, know if the rear hubs for the disc brake cars (impreza LS) would fit the svx axles? i would probably do that conversion at the same time anyway so that i can get discs and mount a swaybar.

I'm only speculating, but I'd imagine the hubs themselves are the same from the drum to disc equiped cars. Lower manufacturing cost I'd imagine. I do believe the 04 STi was 5x 100 and the SVX axles fit them but again....just speculating....can anyone verify?

what are people running for exhausts? the ~12" long headers with some pipes made to connect it to a normal H4 catback? has anyone head what a true equal length dual exhaust sounds like?

what are people running for exhausts? the ~12" long headers with some pipes made to connect it to a normal H4 catback? has anyone head what a true equal length dual exhaust sounds like?

Yep it sounds like a porsche, which is kind of wrong when its coming from a scooby, but its not to bad. Im getting a stainless dual exhaist made up in the next few weeks, il post what that sounds like when its going. Even my current setup sounds evil... :devil:

yeah i saw that video clip of the single exhaust car and thats what made me think of it. i'm interested to see/hear some more clips and hear some dual exhaust ones too.

so anyone got the wiring diagrams for 97 svx motor? i am still in the planning stages of my swap. and will need a copy of them, but you all knew that because you have done it.

by the way post some pic of your radiators? i need some visual ideas.

james

Since this is a "resource" thread I'm not hesitant to ask such a n00b question...

Is everyone still using their stock cross member? If so, did you have to make modifications (notching) to it so the engine and exhaust would fit?

Also, has there been any headway made on the EZ30R ECU issue. I've been doing lots of reading today (I'm burnt out actually) but I think it was Slack's thread that had tons of issues with the immobilizer equipment. I saw mention of using a Hydra stand-alone but I honestly didn't read through all 45+ pages.

James- Subaru has a site where you can download tech manuals, including wiring diagrams, for a small fee. I don't remember the URL, but search around in this forum and you will find it.

Libila- For the EZ series, no modification is needed for the cross member. I'm not sure about the EG33, though.

For an ECU, Hydra and Link both have available stand-alones.

Mick

the sti 6th gear has about the same ratio as the wrx 5th, its just that the gears in between are closer together to keep the rpms in the power band.

i just plugged the numbers into a gear ratio calculator:

The 2.2L 4.1 rear diff with a .78 5th gear will cruise at 3100rpms at 75mph.
The svx 3.545 rear end with a .78 5th gear will cruise at 2800rpms at 75mph.
Going from the .78 5th gear from the 2.2 to the .738 5th gear from the wrx only saves you 150rpm at 75mph.
Stock SVX 75MPH @ 2500RPM.
Stock trani is a 4.1GR
Most people with SVX's do 1 of 3 things swap for a 4.11(OBS or Legacy), 4.44(RS or Legacy), or 5-speed 04 WRX. A few lucky bastards have done STi 6-speeds.
My sugestion would be to leave the stock drive train and get the car running first. I'm doing a EZ30R into a 97 OBS and am getting the engine in and running then doing the drive train(Well I have swapped out the read drums for 02 WRX discs but that'll get changed too) I'll be doing a full 06' swap over as full as I can anyways. 5eat and all.It's seems you need a good source of SVX data so I"d try checking out the SVX network some more. I know you're on there asking stuff so ask away.


What I'll be doing for my swap will be a full change over and update to the car as I have ODBII and need to pass a readiness test every year now.
EZ30R
Stock looms and ECU
stock TBW(till I figure something out)
5EAT and rear diff
acomidatiing as needed out ward drivetrain changes
gReddy brake upgrades
Coilovers(Megan Racing right now not sure what I'll change too)
aftermarket bumper cover(give better air flow in...plus looks cool)
bumperbeam delete(7#'s, frees up room and I"m putting on a brush gaurd to protect the body)
HTAuto's Wide body(might need to wide if I have to match the 06' stance)
lightened fly wheel(do they make a moderately lightened one?)
Perrin Crank pulley
InJen CAI(depending on throtlebody)
And finally
a helping hand from a gReddy Emanage(though they have a vManage now but only preprogrammed for certain cars.)
I think that's it out side of astetics on the inside and a few other matching ones on the out.
I've followed Mick's swap and have been doing other reading so any $.02 from anyone? Ordering engine once taxxes come in.
-Gaddis

Stock SVX trans is 3.54:1, not 4:1...

Stock SVX trans is 3.54:1, not 4:1...
Sorry, 4.1:1 is what I put and ment but I was thinking of the 4eats of most early Impreza's. I don't spend lot of time worrying about the stock trani I have 86K original miles on my 94LSi, and don't plan on swapping with another 4eat.
-Gaddis

Good luck with the OBD-II. I want to know how this works out with the Immobilizer and Limp Mode in the stock ECU. Both of those have been issues. It sounds like Mick and ECS worked out the Immobilizer issues, but were foiled by Limp Mode.

gReddy brake upgrades
Off the topic of this thread, but why Greddy? Unless you're getting the stuff at about 1/2 price, there are equally (if not more) capable kits out there for a helluva lot less than the over-priced Greddy BBKs.

What I'll be doing for my swap will be a full change over and update to the car as I have ODBII and need to pass a readiness test every year now.
EZ30R
Stock looms and ECU
stock TBW(till I figure something out)
I've followed Mick's swap and have been doing other reading so any $.02 from anyone? Ordering engine once taxxes come in.
-Gaddis
Considering you've read all of Mick's trials and tribulations, I'm wondering the same thing as adhowe...
Good luck with the OBD-II. I want to know how this works out with the Immobilizer and Limp Mode in the stock ECU. Both of those have been issues. It sounds like Mick and ECS worked out the Immobilizer issues, but were foiled by Limp Mode.
What do you know that Mick didn't that's going to allow you to what he was unable to do after well over a year of effort and hundreds of dollars spent on OEM parts?

Pat

Hey guys, don't discourage him. He's going to buy all my leftover parts. Haha! ;)

But seriously, many people have got the immobilizer system to work in other vehicles, but just not with this swap. My dead end was lack of ABS. The ecu needed to get some speed signals from all four wheels via the ABS sensors. Since my car did not come with ABS, the complexity of getting the stock ecu to work was just not worth the trouble. ECS would have had to not only swap out all the hubs, but also install an ABS system into my car. As I have never owned a car with ABS (my 325 has it, but it doesn't work), I have no interest in going through all that just to get the car running. Even if we had done that, there may be several other issues with the stock ecu after that. I will never find out, though.


Mick

Hey guys, don't discourage him. He's going to buy all my leftover parts. Haha! ;)

But seriously, many people have got the immobilizer system to work in other vehicles, but just not with this swap. My dead end was lack of ABS. The ecu needed to get some speed signals from all four wheels via the ABS sensors. Since my car did not come with ABS, the complexity of getting the stock ecu to work was just not worth the trouble. ECS would have had to not only swap out all the hubs, but also install an ABS system into my car. As I have never owned a car with ABS (my 325 has it, but it doesn't work), I have no interest in going through all that just to get the car running. Even if we had done that, there may be several other issues with the stock ecu after that. I will never find out, though.


Mick
Yeah don't discourage! I'm gonna be going through and actually swapping EVERYTHING I can do have as much of an update of everything. My car is stock with ABS so that situation is setled fo r the moment and even if I have to upgrade to a newer ABS unit I only have to do half the work Mick would. I"ll be going through the entired wiring including down to the headlight wiring and "stock" 06 fuse box. Pulling out all the wiring of the dash and replacing all that. Most other things like fuel system increase will be handles by upgrading the pump an dlines to handle the needed fuel increase. My big problem to over come that Mick found out for us was the ingnition recognition. I might have to go find a junked 06 and pull the whole collum to make sure I have everything I need to have a registered key and codes for the ingnition interface.(Are there any run on sentences? I'm in ramble mode so most likely.) I was gonna use STi injectors, but I might not need to go as high as that I think. Stock size anyone? I'm mostly taking the same approach as the STi swaps into things like GC/F/M's.(There was a really nice couple of 04' STi's into late 90's OBS's I"ve seen done very nicely. One by ECS.)
Anyone know what the EZ30D(R) uses for air metering? MAF or MAP? I"m guessing MAP since Mick's and other's have had just the cone filter sitting on the Throtle Body for the moment.

Note: I was gonna go with gReddy brakes cause they were cheaper than the Brembro's and have a full kit with all the components together already. I"ll deal with that when the car is fast enough to need it.
-Gaddis

Mine is MAP because the Hydra is MAP. I don't know if the stock ECU is MAP based or not.

Sounds like you're going to use the stock 5EAT that goes with the EZ30R. This should simplify matters a bit.

Injectors: Use the stock injectors.

ABS: You may yet be updating hubs and the like. I don't know if the ABS wheels for the EZ30R vehicles are the same as the first generation Imprezas. The trick is that the ECU compares the speeds indicated by this system and the primary VSS (from transmission) to check for faults. Not only does it need to know that the ABS is there, it needs to know that the speed is nearly the same as indicated by the VSS.

Gearing: The above may cause problems with non-stock final drive ratios, depending on how the VSS is sent out of the 5EAT.

Pedals and throttle body: You'll need to switch to the stock DBW to maintain adequate idle control.

Airbags: Does anyone know if the stock ECU will allow normal operation without the full compliment of functional airbags?

There's a lot more out there... Trailblazing comes with a price. Mick and I have paid our dues. :)

Andy

The EZ30R uses MAF.

Andy, you just made me think of something. Could the ECU be looking for the speed signals from the ABS sensors and transmission for VDC? I'm pretty sure the H6 Outbacks all have VDC. Without the entire VDC system, it might cause the the ECU to stay in limp mode.

I wish all this stuff wasn't so complicated. There were tons of people who warned me in the beginning that this swap would be crazy to attempt. They were right. :alien:

Mick

^^ better you than me ;) :lol: j/k!

I've started my swap but I must tell you Mick's thread healped clear up a lot of doubt I had in getting started.

A few things that I've figured out, EG and EZ engine mounts are different, was looking to use group N or Cusco mounts instead of the soggy stock EZ mounts.

Radiator- I have a 40mm core aluminum radiator that I added an additional upper outlet to, so it matches the twin outs on the EZ. And I have two very slim fans that still are pullers.

Headers- I've looked at stock EZ headers and they made me want to cry. I am having flanges made so I can fab up a set of custom headers. The stock headers appear to be the biggest restriction to the EZ30R's top end.

Transmission- This is my specialty, I have a few options here in house, I have a 6mt, a Modena Dog Box (I hate dog boxes), or a nice set of helical / syncro PPG's. The big question is the one you were covering, which final drive? 3:70, 3:90, 4:11, 4:44?
Honestly I'm thinking 3:70 with a nice short 1st-5th to take advantage of all the torque. All though the 4:44 would be a destroyer of tires :lol:

Rear Diff- I'm going to run the R180 just to try and distribute some weight to the rear of the car. I could build a stout R160 but with the additional weight up front I need to try and get the bias as close to even as possible.

As for engine management I've been looking at a few options, I could do the stock ECU and have the immobilizer disabled by an Ecutek dealer but that still leaves the can-bus issue (Open ECU guys are you listening?!!). The hydra looks like the best option as of right now because of it's "plug and play" status.

-Dylan

Dylan,

You'll want your highway cruising RPM's at around 2800 for fuel economy. I think less than that and the engine will be a bit of a dog. I'm running the RA gears with the 4.44 final drive and struggle to get better than 22mph on the highway.

Engine mounts: I had some Group N mounts modified by welding a plate with a bolt pattern that matches the EZ.

ECU: There are two options. I'm running the Hydra. It was the only choice when I got mine running. It will not, however, run the AVCS in closed loop mode. Link is in the process of making the G3 available for the EZ30R with close loop feedback, but you need to pony up for the professional package. With the AVCS non-functional, my car is severely hobbled above 5500 rpms. I will be making the switch to the Link when I can afford it.

Andy

Andy-

Fuel mileage isn't a big concern for me, I've got a stock 96' Legacy for a daily :)

Now from what I was told the new version of the hydra will run the fbw and avcs and alcs?

I was just over at the OpenECU forums looking through some of the can bus info and am wondering if someone can figure out how to eliminate certain systems from the bus. If this is possible we may have our answer to the stock ECU. :)

-Dylan

Which version of the Hydra? As I understand it, the Hydra 2.5 does not have any firmware available that will run the AVCS closed loop on a 6-cylinder engine. AVLS is not a problem as it is an on/off switch rather than a solenoid duty cycle problem. As I understand it, Hydra has chosen to do their development of features for 4-cylinder platforms and hang us 6+ cylinder folks out to dry. For STi's, drive by wire and AVCS closed loop control is already a reality. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the case for us.

Phil from Element claims to have figured out how to tune the for AVCS in open loop mode. I guess I'll find out next month if all goes well. But this talk of OpenECU and disabling certain unnecessary systems is making me wonder if I should keep my stock ecu or not.


Mick

^^ That's what I was told too.

I PM'd Colby to see what he thought about "kicking systems off the bus" :lol:

I hope he has encouraging news :)

-Dylan

I know Phil can run it open loop. Its not a simple operation and requires an o-scope and a stock engine on a dyno to log the solenoid duty cycle sequence compared to cam position. This will take, literally, hours of work to get the duty cycles correct and then hours of work to tune the engine. Then, if something goes haywire, there's no feedback to the ECU and it may break stuff.

I'm a pessimist, but it seems like a lot of work and a lot of risk.

Well one good thing for Mick. I was reading around and it looks like when you get it back to GA you'll just wind up doing like they do in Cali. A referee'd sniffer test and a visual inspection. Do you guys have a Bureau of Automotive Repair down there? That's why happenes in Cali. Since they aren't as strict in GA as in Cali I don't see why you wouldn't pass aslong as you had at least a usable cat hooked up to clean out the exhaust to pass the sniffer test. Unless you went catless? Then you might be screwed.
Okay now that I know it's MAF in stock set up I just need to measure the throtle body of the EZ to see if I can borrow my CAI so I can get some good air flow. Anyone know if the EJ compatablity of flywheels? I figured they would but wanted to know what everone else is using. I don't think I want to go with a crazy 600WHP application light 14 or 17 or what ever pounds one, but maybe a just lighter mid point form stock to help reduce rotational weight since I'll have it sitting there for a while.
-Gaddis

Flywheels are interchangable with EJ series engines. I'm using an Exedy Hyper Twin setup for a WRX with no troubles.

Hmm, the AVCS solenoids are constantly cycling while the engine is running so there really is no sequence that I know of (remembering my Ver.8 logs), couldn't you take a simple data log of a stock car and enter the duty cycle trace into the hydra and have a good base map? I'm just guessing at this point. ;)

-Dylan

I know Phil can run it open loop. Its not a simple operation and requires an o-scope and a stock engine on a dyno to log the solenoid duty cycle sequence compared to cam position. This will take, literally, hours of work to get the duty cycles correct and then hours of work to tune the engine. Then, if something goes haywire, there's no feedback to the ECU and it may break stuff.

I'm a pessimist, but it seems like a lot of work and a lot of risk.

You would be able to mimic the stock system under that particular pull of load vs. rpms. The cam angle will want to be changed with rpms and load. Its a 3-D map. Knowing one path across the map can't help you fill in the rest of the data. What would you do with the duty cycle when you encounter a situation that wasn't tested? Do you use the sample duty cycle data for all load levels at a particular rpm? It would be crude and inefficient, but likely better than what I'm running now - AVCS disabled.

On the other hand, if you spent hours on a dyno pulling cam angle and duty cycle data simultaneously, you could create a rough map of duty cycle vs. cam angle. This would involve sitting at a constant load and rpm range long enough to determine the pattern required to hold the cam angle. After establishing that particular point, you could move on to another cam angle. After going through the entire range of cam angles, you could use the same tools to plot the desired cam angle on the load-rpm 3-D map. Take these two sets of data and build the open loop map in the Hydra.

^^ I think you're on to something :)

Having run AVCS disabled in my Ver.7 till I hammered out the wiring (back in 02' :lol: )I know it sucks having it disabled and the intake cams sitting in the retarded position. :(

-Dylan

^^ I think you're on to something :)

Having run AVCS disabled in my Ver.7 till I hammered out the wiring (back in 02' :lol: )I know it sucks having it disabled and the intake cams sitting in the retarded position. :(

-Dylan
Which makes you feeling? .... retarded! LOL LOL LOL!:sadbanana: Okay bad joke. Did the Outback or Tribeca come with the Si-Drive system? I haven't had time lately to hunt down if it did or not. (last week I work 60hrs. Hooray for over time!) I've read that Perrin was thinking of using the Si-Drive to essentually run 3 separate maps for the 08' STi. Figured if I didn't use the eManage I might go with this plan(provided it came with the Si-Drive.) for tuning out optimun power and econemy after everything is running with light base mods of pulley, CAI(depending),exhaust, flywheel. Gonna run a little off from stock.
-Gaddis

The EZ30R uses MAF.

Andy, you just made me think of something. Could the ECU be looking for the speed signals from the ABS sensors and transmission for VDC? I'm pretty sure the H6 Outbacks all have VDC. Without the entire VDC system, it might cause the the ECU to stay in limp mode.

I wish all this stuff wasn't so complicated. There were tons of people who warned me in the beginning that this swap would be crazy to attempt. They were right. :alien:

Mick

I'm also wondering about this as well... I plan on cutting out the VDC system from the harness and just running without that or the auto trans computer like I did to my 2.5 swap. I sure hope my blasted car runs!

I'm also wondering about this as well... I plan on cutting out the VDC system from the harness and just running without that or the auto trans computer like I did to my 2.5 swap. I sure hope my blasted car runs!
In your "death wedge"? I'd rather go with upgrading a car. A small price to pay if you're going the distance of just getting the EZ in and running. Maybe a EG33 would be better. Have you considered that as an option?
-Gaddis

Throtle-By-Wire delete on EZ with stock ECU. Any forsee able issue in poticular to look at here. I know there are the Imobilizer ignition get around floating around now that so many newer cars have them, but what about the interface witht he ECU? Unless is something really easy I'll likely still just set up with TBW and get it in and running first. Maybe this is something to check with Unabomber on? See what he knows.
-Gaddis

The major issue with TBW delete on the stock ECU appears to be idle control. Maybe Mick has some more information on this, but I think the stock ECU controls idle with throttle position (it has the means, why not?) There wasn't any alternate means of idle control on the TBW throttle body that was on my engine when I got it - the only plug on the throttle body was at the servo to control throttle position and no alternate air passages for idle control were obvious.

Which makes you feeling? .... retarded! LOL LOL LOL!:sadbanana: Okay bad joke. Did the Outback or Tribeca come with the Si-Drive system? I haven't had time lately to hunt down if it did or not. (last week I work 60hrs. Hooray for over time!) I've read that Perrin was thinking of using the Si-Drive to essentually run 3 separate maps for the 08' STi. Figured if I didn't use the eManage I might go with this plan(provided it came with the Si-Drive.) for tuning out optimun power and econemy after everything is running with light base mods of pulley, CAI(depending),exhaust, flywheel. Gonna run a little off from stock.
-Gaddis

Ouch, that joke makes babies cry ;) :lol:

The legacy and I believe the Tribeca were both available with SI-Drive.

-Dylan

Ouch, that joke makes babies cry ;) :lol:

The legacy and I believe the Tribeca were both available with SI-Drive.

-Dylan
Yes yes many babies cried to make that joke. It's actually made of their very tears.
Anywho this might be actually helpful news. As I stated(I think I did?) Perrin's tuning of their 08' STi thread someone brought up the idea and they agreed it might be useful to basicly remap each of the Si-Drive settings and be able to run different tunes as needed. For instance max HP is nice but sometimes you don't want to fill the tank every 2 days(or less) cause you use the car as you're daily driver. It only takes around a minute for the system to defer to the alternate setting and should be nice to have as many versitile options as possible. One of the reason I opted for doing a 6 swap and not just the old "Buy crashed STi. Put in my car. Tune for 600WHP. Cry every time I fill the tank driving too spirited." I guess I'll start adding that to my reading regiment to be ready and see what I can do. Like Mick before me i hope what I hit as a road block and be over come by the next.
-Gaddis

I would love to use the SI-Drive like that :)

We need to get one of the Open ECU guys in here for this discussion to see if it's doable.

-Dylan

In your "death wedge"? I'd rather go with upgrading a car. A small price to pay if you're going the distance of just getting the EZ in and running. Maybe a EG33 would be better. Have you considered that as an option?
-Gaddis

Actually... Jeffast owns the "death wedge", or at least used to, he sold it. I own the "Cheese wedge"(it's yellow, DUH) and there are a few reasons I wouldn't go with any other car. Firstly, I love my car. Second it has more engine room then any other Subaru other then the SVX, my XT came with an H-6. Thirdly, I want to be the only one :P There already is an EG33 in an XT-6... I bought my EZ30 to put into my XT to make it more unique. And last, my XT is lighter then an impreza... much lighter.

So yeah, I'm gonna do it.. I'll probably cut all the VDC crap out and run it stock. Luckily I didn't get the TBW so I'm good there. My EJ25''d Rx runs great and typically has about 6 codes in the ECU.:rolleyes:

What's an XT weigh?

I have to ballast my Impreza up to my legal race weight of 2625. If I made it a "real" race car and gutted all the street legal stuff I have in it, I could get down below 2400 pretty easily. I think I could even get down to 2300 if I worked hard at it.

Regarding the EZ, the basic EZ30 should be pretty easy to make work. Its the late model "R" engine that is giving us all fits.

I thought about dropping in an standard EZ30 in our GC6 race car project just because the wiring was simpler :)

-Dylan

BTW- If anyone is interested I have a full EZ30 out of an 03' Legacy with harness and ECU for sale ;)

What's an XT weigh?

I have to ballast my Impreza up to my legal race weight of 2625. If I made it a "real" race car and gutted all the street legal stuff I have in it, I could get down below 2400 pretty easily. I think I could even get down to 2300 if I worked hard at it.

Regarding the EZ, the basic EZ30 should be pretty easy to make work. Its the late model "R" engine that is giving us all fits.

My Xt weighs about 2400 with all the bells and whistles there... A/C, Power steering the whole nine yards. My '88 Rx with the 2.5 weighs 2600... the older cars are very light.

Well guys I have finally come to the crossroads. My 1994 SVX 4eat just went south. I was going to sale our 1993 Impreza AWD but now I am driving it again. So with all this said I have come to the EG33 crossroads. I really want to do this conversion but I also love my SVX. The SVX is however somewhat of a dog being it weighs alot more and the slushbox also aids in the slow department. My SVX is not an AWD it is FWD. I can always get another SVX later. I see them often for 1200 bucks.

Now with all that said I am thinking about cannibalizing the SVX and gathering everything to convert the Impreza over to the EG33.

Just wanted to get some opinions before I do this. Also my wife isnt sure about the whole EG33 conversion.

^^ do it!! ;)

Hmmm.... I wounder how long the stock '93 Impreza transmission would last under mild driving? :rolleyes:

I think what you need is a good old 5speed swap. I love the EG but hate pulling a good machine apart for it. I'd say pick up a replacement trani and keep it roll'n. How many miles on it? I've got 86K on my 94LSi.
-Gaddis

It has 168K on it. Wife and I have been talking more on this subject. I think we have decided to cannibalize the SVX. Its an L model with front wheel drive. I love this car but we are now going to buy an late 94 thru 96ish AWD LSI later this summer.

First I need to get my land cruiser project finished before I can even think about doing the soobie conversion. But by the end of this summer our impreza will be converted to an EG33. I just have to decide which is the most affordable and durable route for the transmission and rear diff. I am sure the drive train in the 1993 Impreza AWD will hold up to moderate driving but I know its going to need to be relaced before I can even think about romping on it.


feedback?

Alright, so there's an EG33 at a local junkyard inside an entirely gutted SVX.
I might do this.

Will EJ transmissions bolt up? I just got a new one >_<

Also, it's missing some parts - how hard is it to find an intake manifold, etc?

Oh, and also...um...if anyone wants that EG33 Shortblock let me know. That SVX looks so sad I might just want to buy it for an STi Swap or something.

and, uh...what's this about using a TMIC as a radiator?

Oh, and also...um...if anyone wants that EG33 Shortblock let me know. That SVX looks so sad I might just want to buy it for an STi Swap or something.

and, uh...what's this about using a TMIC as a radiator?

what are you asking for the short block?

what are you asking for the short
block?

I dunno, it's probably a POS to ship and I have no idea how much it's worth. It's about an hour drive away, I think I'll probably grab it myself, attempt the install, and if I decide it'll too much to deal with I'll sell it.

So you can use TMICs as radiators for these things?

I dunno, it's probably a POS to ship and I have no idea how much it's worth. It's about an hour drive away, I think I'll probably grab it myself, attempt the install, and if I decide it'll too much to deal with I'll sell it.

So you can use TMICs as radiators for these things?
Uuuh...no. Eg33s aren't air cooled. :lol: Find a proper radiator. car-part.com will have what you need.

Mick

Uuuh...no. Eg33s aren't air cooled. :lol: Find a proper radiator. car-part.com will have what you need.

Mick

:P
I knew that.

well now i have a guy that wants to trade me some stuff for a wrecked 2001 Forester with AWD and a 5speed manual transmission. Hmmmm?

What do you guys think? Im almost tempted to use it to bring the SVX back to life and get the rear suspension cradle to convert it to AWD.

well now i have a guy that wants to trade me some stuff for a wrecked 2001 Forester with AWD and a 5speed manual transmission. Hmmmm?

What do you guys think? Im almost tempted to use it to bring the SVX back to life and get the rear suspension cradle to convert it to AWD.
+1 for getting the SVX back on the raod. Sad to see when another one drops off the charts. The rear end won't help though. Well for the diff it will but you have a lot of work to convert. The whole subframe is what you'll need to find. Good idea though. I know a few people with FWD vehicles that were also AWD offered but it's just a lot to convert. Good luck though. Maybe now you'll save and get an EZ for your Impreza instead.
-Gaddis

+1 for getting the SVX back on the raod. Sad to see when another one drops off the charts. The rear end won't help though. Well for the diff it will but you have a lot of work to convert. The whole subframe is what you'll need to find. Good idea though. I know a few people with FWD vehicles that were also AWD offered but it's just a lot to convert. Good luck though. Maybe now you'll save and get an EZ for your Impreza instead.
-Gaddis

Ok we have a wrecked 1995 (OBD2) SVX that we are going to buy if the car is still there when the income taxes hit the bank. So now we would have two EG33's.

How much hp and torque can the factory drivetrain handle in the earlier Impreza's? Mine of course in an 1993 Impreza L AWD with a 5 speed. I have also located another 1993 Legacy that has a blown engine and it is AWD as well. Are they both rated at the same power or is the Legacy able to handle more? And what drivetrain parts for these years interchange without fabing (SVX, Impreza, Legacy)?

I would just like to get the EG33 into the Impreza for now and drive it mildly if possible. Then when I can located a decent 5speed and rear diff I will upgrade the drivetrain at that time. I dont have enough room to store everything so it woudl be ideal if I would be able to do the conversion now and the upgrades later.

^^ *cough* really cheap 6mt's and R180's available *cough* ;)

-Dylan

anyone want a spare EZ30R? cheap! :lol:

^^ *cough* really cheap 6mt's and R180's available *cough* ;)

-Dylan

anyone want a spare EZ30R? cheap! :lol:

Where would those be? :confused: I have only seen them for 2000-3500 usd used.

PM me for what you need :)

^^ *cough* really cheap 6mt's and R180's available *cough* ;)

-Dylan

anyone want a spare EZ30R? cheap! :lol:

Spare EZ you say... Cheap you say.....?! How bout shooting me an PM with a _____OBRF and I'll PM you backa reasonable offer or maybe even a meet offer? I'd like to get my build underway.
-Gaddis

PM'd you :)

PM'd you :)
Responded. :disco:
-Gaddis

^^ so I've got this thing on a pallett that's supposed to go to this guy.... lol shipping company dorked us around, so we're shipping monday :)

To everyone else, was messing with mine yesterday and noticed a few things, the motor sit's really high on the stock mounts and could stand to moved back about 1/2-1" without any major modifications to the cross member or compromising the rear header tube placement (stock headers would have to notch the cross member).

Anyone up for making a set of steel plates to use EJ series mounts with the relocation? :)

-Dylan @ds1

^^ so I've got this thing on a pallett that's supposed to go to this guy.... lol shipping company dorked us around, so we're shipping monday :)

To everyone else, was messing with mine yesterday and noticed a few things, the motor sit's really high on the stock mounts and could stand to moved back about 1/2-1" without any major modifications to the cross member or compromising the rear header tube placement (stock headers would have to notch the cross member).

Anyone up for making a set of steel plates to use EJ series mounts with the relocation? :)

-Dylan @ds1
:(.... More delay? Any way of getting it rushed at least? I"m eager to get started with this. Even if I won't be dropping in for a bit or even yanking the EJ22 I"ll be getting her up on the stand and hopefully getting in there and cleaning as much as I can and checking all I can see. Oh I plan on running STi rods of forged ones ment for the STi's internals. Everything I've read has led me to beleive they will fit. Anyone got a length on the EJ conrods? 5.187" on the EZ's I guess I think I read that from Dylan on a different thread.
-Gaddis

:(.... More delay? Any way of getting it rushed at least? I"m eager to get started with this. Even if I won't be dropping in for a bit or even yanking the EJ22 I"ll be getting her up on the stand and hopefully getting in there and cleaning as much as I can and checking all I can see. Oh I plan on running STi rods of forged ones ment for the STi's internals. Everything I've read has led me to beleive they will fit. Anyone got a length on the EJ conrods? 5.187" on the EZ's I guess I think I read that from Dylan on a different thread.
-Gaddis

I got manley H-beam wrx rods for mine. I tore down the block, and I was about to place the rods on when I found out they were too thick. I had to take them to a machine shop to have the big end shaved down. I'm pretty sure stock STi rods will have to be shaved too. Good luck

Oh yeah... for those that didn't know, its not an EJ + 2 more cylinders. The parts are different dimensions.

Oh yeah... for those that didn't know, its not an EJ + 2 more cylinders. The parts are different dimensions.
Well that's good to know at least.:furious:.....:unamused: Any specs to go by for looking around? Actually has anyone started making some yet or am I still in the run stock/rework STi or after market/have a set custom made? WOuld be nice to find a set that will work or see that the STi rods will work. Anyone got side dementions?
-Gaddis

Try asking Jeff Sponaugle or the guys at PDX Tuning. I know they at least have the piston dimensions as they were having custom pistons made for their boosted EZ powered cars. I'd imagine that they had some rods made, too.

I doubt there's anything "off the shelf", but it didn't sound like the custom pistons were too expensive. The rods probably aren't either.

:(.... More delay? Any way of getting it rushed at least? I"m eager to get started with this. Even if I won't be dropping in for a bit or even yanking the EJ22 I"ll be getting her up on the stand and hopefully getting in there and cleaning as much as I can and checking all I can see. Oh I plan on running STi rods of forged ones ment for the STi's internals. Everything I've read has led me to beleive they will fit. Anyone got a length on the EJ conrods? 5.187" on the EZ's I guess I think I read that from Dylan on a different thread.
-Gaddis

I got manley H-beam wrx rods for mine. I tore down the block, and I was about to place the rods on when I found out they were too thick. I had to take them to a machine shop to have the big end shaved down. I'm pretty sure stock STi rods will have to be shaved too. Good luck

Well that's good to know at least.:furious:.....:unamused: Any specs to go by for looking around? Actually has anyone started making some yet or am I still in the run stock/rework STi or after market/have a set custom made? WOuld be nice to find a set that will work or see that the STi rods will work. Anyone got side dementions?
-Gaddis


The rods in the EZ30 and EZ30R motors are not dimensionally the same as the EJ rods. The EJ rods are thicker on the big end, as well as a bit shorter. You cannont use an EJ25x rod in the EZ motor unless you somehow get the rod shaved.

In all of the EZ30R motors I have built, I have used the Pauter EZ30R rod, which was custom made some time ago but is now available from them with more availability. These custom rods are the correct thickness, as well as have the 22mm wrist pin holes vs 23mms for the EJ rods. Using these rods and your custom piston and you will be good to go for low or high compression.

If you are doing a high power application, be sure to shim BOTH oil relief valves. I used two shims in the primary, and 1 in the secondary.

Here are a few pics to help out:

http://www.sponaugle.com/nasioc/H6Rods-Comp.jpg

http://www.sponaugle.com/nasioc/H6WristPins.jpg

http://www.sponaugle.com/nasioc/H6StockPiston-Angle.jpg

http://www.sponaugle.com/nasioc/H6Mahle-Angle.jpg

Oh, and here is what can happen with the very weak stock rods:

http://www.sponaugle.com/nasioc/BrokenH6-rod1.jpg

I may miss things on this thread, so feel free to PM me questions. I have done a few EZ buildups now so I think I can identify every bolt in the front cover from memory. ;) [That is a joke for those who have built the EZ motors. The front and rear covers have many bolts of many sizes. )

http://www.sponaugle.com/nasioc/PDX-H6-FrontChain2.jpg

Cheers,

Jeff Sponaugle

Great post Jeff :)

I have seen the EJ series rods used shaved with custom pistons but with the availabilty of the aftermarket rods it would be a waste of time these days.

I'm looking into a lighter rod set up for our N/A car, but still need them strong for the compression I want to run.

On a side note we just got our EZ30D in today and got it ripped apart, some very interesting things in relation to the EZ30R.

Variable plenum volume
Different Exhaust port design

We also started work today on the ITB set-up, anyone who is interested in these please let us know. :)


-Dylan @ DS1

Well thanks for the thurough run down. Now you say the Pauter is making them semi-regulary. Where might us humble swappers order them? Do they have a sight adress or a number to reach them to order? I know I"ll need a set. I may be only building NA like Dylan but I'd liek to keep a solid base to work with. That and I know somewhere down the like I"d like to see about a super charger so finding and getting a set plus back ups is good incase no one makes anyting by then. Thanks again Jeff and every one.
-Gaddis

On a side note we just got our EZ30D in today and got it ripped apart, some very interesting things in relation to the EZ30R.

Variable plenum volume
Different Exhaust port design
No offense, Dylan, but that's hardly news. I would hope you were expecting to see those differences!

We also started work today on the ITB set-up, anyone who is interested in these please let us know. :)

-Dylan @ DS1
I'd be interested in hearing more details about the ITBs.

Well thanks for the thurough run down. Now you say the Pauter is making them semi-regulary. Where might us humble swappers order them? Do they have a sight adress or a number to reach them to order?
www.google.com to www.pauter.com, perhaps? :lol:

Pat

:lol:No offense, Dylan, but that's hardly news. I would hope you were expecting to see those differences!


I'd be interested in hearing more details about the ITBs.


www.google.com (http://www.google.com) to www.pauter.com (http://www.pauter.com), perhaps? :lol:

Pat
Well thanks for being a smart ass Pattie!(J/K:lol:) I've just been really out of it while surfing the forums for other parts for my car and a friend's swap+build 2.2. Oh or just not home like today being very bussy going into Boston to go to China town to see some of the beautiful ladies and great food and bootleg DVD's in Chinese. Found my self the whole Initial D for 60 bucks(I have the first two stages but the US never got the rest:()
But on a topical note. I checked through the Pauter sight real quick and couldn't find the EZ rods but at least I found the order form for gettin sets made and you need. So who would like ot develop some nice demensions for some NA build EZ30R rods? Hopefully something that will still be solid enough for some light say... 0.5-1 bar of pressure form a SC couple years down the line? Just a thought of a future upgrade if I run out of things to do. Or would people doing their NA's like to go in a a group batch and I just get some heavier for later? 1.5-2 bars holdable maybe(If I want to kill my self)?:lol:
-Gaddis

No offense, Dylan, but that's hardly news. I would hope you were expecting to see those differences!


I'd be interested in hearing more details about the ITBs.


www.google.com to www.pauter.com, perhaps? :lol:

Pat

:p

:lol:

just for that not ITB info for you! ;) :lol:

J/k, the itb adapter plate is all drawn up in solid works and due to be cut sometime in the next week. :)

-Dylan @ DS1

:lol:
Well thanks for being a smart ass Pattie!(J/K:lol:) I've just been really out of it while surfing the forums for other parts for my car and a friend's swap+build 2.2. Oh or just not home like today being very bussy going into Boston to go to China town to see some of the beautiful ladies and great food and bootleg DVD's in Chinese. Found my self the whole Initial D for 60 bucks(I have the first two stages but the US never got the rest:()
But on a topical note. I checked through the Pauter sight real quick and couldn't find the EZ rods but at least I found the order form for gettin sets made and you need. So who would like ot develop some nice demensions for some NA build EZ30R rods? Hopefully something that will still be solid enough for some light say... 0.5-1 bar of pressure form a SC couple years down the line? Just a thought of a future upgrade if I run out of things to do. Or would people doing their NA's like to go in a a group batch and I just get some heavier for later? 1.5-2 bars holdable maybe(If I want to kill my self)?:lol:
-Gaddis
Just in case you just couldn't read the fine print on their website:

The following list is a sampling of our most popular rods for Subaru engines. It is by no means a complete listing. Keep in mind that we are geared for the production of custom sizes in all engine series.

I might be interested in building my EZ up a bit a few years down the line. A little higher compression and maybe some cam work, just as long as it will run 93 and be street friendly.

Mick

Just in case you just couldn't read the fine print on their website:



I might be interested in building my EZ up a bit a few years down the line. A little higher compression and maybe some cam work, just as long as it will run 93 and be street friendly.

Mick
Yes Mick I saw that. Just didn't know if someone had the specs from those last FI sets. We'll have to get a group together and one of us to guiniepig the NA's. I'm fine sticking stock compression for now and most furture changes I'd likely be looking to go for a stock length rod and change the heads. Mick the stock cams are pretty spicey on their own and I don't think till you add some FI you'd need cam work as long as you actually have the whole of the engine running. The Variable Valve Timing's what really gets me excited to work with this engine. The flexability of different conditions is what I like. Hence the real push fo rme to run the OEM ECU and see what I can get done with the Si-Drive system. Wouldn't it be nice to have the 3 settings and then fine tune them with data loggin each then reflashing each? :D We'll see though. It still needs to get here.
-Gaddis

Great thread guys, some awesome info here. I'm currently considering an EZ30 MY06 STi swap and I'm tentatively talking to Ron from Raw1performance(formerly Axis) about building me something capable of handling some high boost.

Have any of you run turbo's on your swaps yet? What did you go with? I've just started to research my options here and I'm not sure on what route to go with boost ... twin turbo vs running a big nasty 35/40r.

Great thread guys, some awesome info here. I'm currently considering an EZ30 MY06 STi swap and I'm tentatively talking to Ron from Raw1performance(formerly Axis) about building me something capable of handling some high boost.

Have any of you run turbo's on your swaps yet? What did you go with? I've just started to research my options here and I'm not sure on what route to go with boost ... twin turbo vs running a big nasty 35/40r.
Well here's pretty much the most prominate of us all. http://www.perrinperformance.com/pages/show/32 COBB has also done one but I don't know much on theirs. Have a look through and maybe if you ask for a list we can put up a list at the front of the thread to people ot PM Andy and he'll post a list of links to swaps done or working on by people here. Good idea yes, Andy? Oh and my engine is here but not here... I need to arange the drop off got the call from the shipping company today. Thanks again Dylan! (DS1Motorsports)
-Gaddis

Mick the stock cams are pretty spicey on their own and I don't think till you add some FI you'd need cam work as long as you actually have the whole of the engine running.
What are the stock cam specs? How do you know how spicy they are?

The FSM gives lobe heights and lobe base diameter, so you can figure out cam lift, but there are no duration specs (as far as I can tell).

Pat

I would like to see what the cam guys say about trying to regrind the variable valve lift cams.

Pat- The exhaust port comment was I was a little surprised that the EZ30D actually has larger exhaust port area than the EZ30R. :)

-Dylan

I would like to see what the cam guys say about trying to regrind the variable valve lift cams.
I'm curious about that, too. One would think there shouldn't be any issue regrinding the dual lobes, as people have been playing with VTEC cams for years now.

Pat- The exhaust port comment was I was a little surprised that the EZ30D actually has larger exhaust port area than the EZ30R. :)
Huh, that's kind of counter-intuitive. But I'm sure for scavenging effect, which is particularly important for someone like me that's staying N/A, the individual exhaust ports is a much better design.

Pat

Well the single port could be a tad better, but I still need to measure port angle and shrouding in the main port.

-Dylan

Guys,

I am putting together an EZ30D/R Impreza swap guide, with all of the goodnesss I can find. I'll have a prelim PDF for you guys to look at next week. I get so many emails about it, I figured it would be better to put it all down in one place.

Here is a quick look at the EZ motors in the US Market btw:

http://www.sponaugle.com/nasioc/EZMotorSpecs.jpg

A couple of interesting things: In the MY08 Legacy (3.0), they changed to a new head casting, and a new intake and exhuast cam. The intake cam has a different lift profile, and the exhaust cam has less duration and less lift.

Also notice that the cams used in the 06/07 Tribeca H6 is not the same as the 05/06/07 Legacy H6. The only difference is the low life intake section is smaller in the Legacy cam. (very small difference).

Also notice in 08 the Legacy has a new intake manifoild, and that same manifold is used on the 3.6. I'm going to order up a 3.6 rod to see how it differs. It might be possible to use the existing Pauter rods from the 3.0 in the 3.6.

Cheers,

Jeff Sponaugle

Also notice in 08 the Legacy has a new intake manifoild, and that same manifold is used on the 3.6. I'm going to order up a 3.6 rod to see how it differs. It might be possible to use the existing Pauter rods from the 3.0 in the 3.6.

Cheers,

Jeff Sponaugle
Sorry Jeff but I'll have to say no before you even start on the rods. They are kinda of a prebent rod. They made them kind or crooked at a point to alow for a longer stock to get that 3.6L's. When I first got on NASIOC that was just as the info on the EZ36 was coming out and I was sicked at all the people that wanted to just through it in a car and through a turbo on it as is. Think of your stock rods you shreaded and then think of the EZ36's. Does make you think of how the crank would work in the R.:lol: Might act like the EJ257 crank in a EJ22. From what I've read it basicly adds to the stroke. Would be interesting to see.
-Gaddis

Sorry Jeff but I'll have to say no before you even start on the rods. They are kind of a prebent rod. They made them kind of crooked at a point to allow for a longer stroke to get that 3.6L's. When I first got on NASIOC info on the EZ36 was just coming out. I was sickened at all the people that wanted to just throw it in a car and throw a turbo on it as is. Think of your stock rods you shredded and then think of the EZ36's. It does make you think of how the crank would work in the EZ30R.:lol: Might act like the EJ257 crank in a EJ22. From what I've read it basically adds to the stroke. Would be interesting to see.
-Gaddis

I was interested in the Rod only to see the size of the big end. If the Journals are the same size, it might be possible to use the EZ36 crank and EZ30R Pauter rods in a EZ30R case, or an EZ30R Pauter rod and EZ30R crank in the EZ36 case. Interesting.. I have to take a closer look.

Jeff

So how much do we know IS transferable between the other motors? I know a lot of people have built up their motors(mainly my intrest being the EZ30R as my engine has finally shown up.) Valvetrain upgrades and other small but signifugant parts like head studs? I know Jeff has already posted on the head studs but what match are they or specs at least. Should we set an alternate thread for a specs list between all the engines EG, EJ or EZ? I really want start my full NA build up but am being temped to get it in a just running. Problem I want to pull it apart and make sure everything's in order but it would make more sence to do the build in that process. I"ll likely start my build thread when i get it up on the stand to start the tear down.
-Gaddis

So how much do we know IS transferable between the other motors? I know a lot of people have built up their motors(mainly my intrest being the EZ30R as my engine has finally shown up.) Valvetrain upgrades and other small but signifugant parts like head studs? I know Jeff has already posted on the head studs but what match are they or specs at least. Should we set an alternate thread for a specs list between all the engines EG, EJ or EZ? I really want start my full NA build up but am being temped to get it in a just running. Problem I want to pull it apart and make sure everything's in order but it would make more sence to do the build in that process. I"ll likely start my build thread when i get it up on the stand to start the tear down.
-Gaddis
Come on guys I need resource'n here. I want to find out how much I need to start being ready to drop at a time.... BEFORE I START BUYING PARTS THAT ARE SHINY! Already did enough splurging on a v8 guage cluster and ACT flywheel that could have waited. I need to know to keep my self from blowing the money I need to use for a new set of 18's for my SVX cause all I have to use right now are my16's with snows and my 17's with too narrow of215 summer tires with random snow off and on again(cause it's New England!)
-Gaddis

Gaddis-

Basically what Jeff is saying is none of the parts from the EJ series directly bolt into the EZ series. :(

You'll need a set of after market rods and pistons for any kind of build.

-Dylan

P.S.- you'll need alot more clutch than the ACT can provide :(

Gaddis-

Basically what Jeff is saying is none of the parts from the EJ series directly bolt into the EZ series. :(

You'll need a set of after market rods and pistons for any kind of build.

-Dylan

P.S.- you'll need alot more clutch than the ACT can provide :(

Well I already saw that about the EJ's not being usable for the EZ. It was the oddball parts. AC compressors, Altinators, fuel rails, intake manifolds, throtle bodies, flywheels, clutches, all the little things after you get the block sealed back up after building. I know Jeff was talking about maybe checking the EZ36R's crank and rods to see if it'd be possible for a EZ30R with the Pauter rods and the 3.6 crank for a stroked 30R. Plus I think it'd be good for everyone else's different builds to see a full list of what we know works and does. What "plug'n'play"s and what needs modifying. EZ-EZ, EG-EZ, EJ-EG,etc. We have a lot of motors and a lot of years of development on only one series. Time for the 6-gunners to take a good leap forward. I know I'd like to see if the 08' intake manifold is better or worse, if the EZ36R crank is a good idea, if I can hit my 300BHP/200WHP NA with the stock ECU. More progress for one more progress for all the follow. I don't think I"d be as ready as I (beleive) I am if I didn't have Mick and Jeff and others to look back on.
-Gaddis

I suppose I should at least poke my head in this thread.... :)

Anders

^^ Green 2 door L?

Yes, it is. Needs a paint job.

Yes, it is. Needs a paint job.
Nah it's a beautiful form follow function car. I think it's should wear it's war scars of victory proudly! You're car was the first proof I found couple years ago that it's doable. I'm not using the D but the R but principle aplies. Wow it's been 4 almost 5 years of dreaming and then searching. Now I'm actually doing something.
Sorry for the thread jacking. Anywho. Anyone come up with some general specs for NA rods and pistons(not jumping the CR too much or at all.)? I fear I might just get everything wir