I have about 13,000 miles on my car and i get my car serviced at the dealership, they are pretty cool with modding cars anyways they wanted to know if i wanted mobil 1, for the next one should i do it, is it too late, and is it worth it to change to synthetic,

p.s. car is slightly modded stock turbo just exhaust and intake

There is nothing wrong with making the switch. Will help protect the engine and get more time in between oil changes.

ditto I go 4500 miles till I change but you can go longer

yay!!

i say yay

Just do It

of course..........

Redline Rocks!

Redline Rocks! Please explain. For all you who think synthetic is more slippery then regular oil, your wrong!

but it holds up better;)

synthetic oil helps your engine run smoother because synthetic oil has these microscopic synthetic beads that act like bearing which reduce friction. different companies have different formulas for these which makes them very in quality or performance.

synthetic oil helps your engine run smoother because synthetic oil has these microscopic synthetic beads that act like bearing which reduce friction. different companies have different formulas for these which makes them very in quality or performance.

Where did you find this "microscopic bead" information? I haven't heard of such a thing.

Mobil 1 is a good synthetic oil, but the base stock is still just highly refined dino oil (Group 3 base stock). This means some natural wax and light hydrocarbons are included with the oil, which can affect the cold-weather performance (wax is normally a solid on cold weather, so the viscosity will change more than a Group 4 synthetic). The light hydrocarbons will evaporate when the oil is heated to a high temperature, which also makes the viscosity increase as well as varnishing/depositing on your engine parts.

If you're going synthetic, pay a little more for a Group 4 base stock (Amsoil, Royal Purple, Red Line, etc.). These are man-made, so you won't have the paraffin wax or light hydrocarbons to deal with. These remain fluid at lower temps than Group 3 and are more stable during high temp conditions.

There's a lot more to write about, but you should check out www.bobistheoilguy.com to see what other Group 4 oils are available for a reasonable price.

PM me if you want more information and I'll try to help.

Microscopic beads sounds like a pennzoil platinum ad. :) Molecules might be more accurate.

All Mobil1 is not group III. Some M1's are purported to be Group III after a special type of analysis on the EP oils, and XOM won't specifically say what group their oils are in.

Group III oils can have excellent cold weather pumpability. Syntec 5W30 has a low temp cranking viscosity of 6600cp at -30C. I doubt there is much wax in any oil these days due to isodewaxing. http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/BaseOils/isodewax.shtml

Regardless of the base stocks used, I wouldn't put RP in the same category as Amsoil and Redline. Their xW30's do not stay in grade as well as Amsoil and RL. Regardless of an oil's make-up, a used oil analysis is the best way to tell how well an oil is doing in a particular application.

-Dennis

Please explain. For all you who think synthetic is more slippery then regular oil, your wrong!


Are synthetics worth the extra cost? Universally, the answer is yes, whether for a high-revving turbo motor or an older engine (http://www.automedia.com/channel/autoCare/Repair_Engine) that gets little use. Using another vivid comparison, French champagne is also worth the extra expense over sparkling wine, but it comes down to matters of your taste and bank account. Most auto manufacturers do not specify synthetics, so if your preference is not to use synthetic oil, rest assured that you're doing no harm with good old-fashioned crude as long as you follow the owner's manual recommendations on viscosity and grade. Bottom line is I will take champagne over wine, any day. My Rex deserves it! ;) She purrrrrrrrrs!

Happy Rosh Hashanah, by the way.

Microscopic beads sounds like a pennzoil platinum ad. :) Molecules might be more accurate.

All Mobil1 is not group III. Some M1's are purported to be Group III after a special type of analysis on the EP oils, and XOM won't specifically say what group their oils are in.

Group III oils can have excellent cold weather pumpability. Syntec 5W30 has a low temp cranking viscosity of 6600cp at -30C. I doubt there is much wax in any oil these days due to isodewaxing. http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/BaseOils/isodewax.shtml

Regardless of the base stocks used, I wouldn't put RP in the same category as Amsoil and Redline. Their xW30's do not stay in grade as well as Amsoil and RL. Regardless of an oil's make-up, a used oil analysis is the best way to tell how well an oil is doing in a particular application.

-Dennis

Nicely stated, Dennis. I wasn't aware of the RP issue with the xW30's. Thanks for the info.

Thank you for all the feedback b/w this and resaerch and personal experience with friends of mine i made my decision but i am also coming up on the diff/trans fluid

what should i put in that my dealership told me MOTUL any feed back on that would helpful too...

Here is what I use. Everybody has ther own preferences. From my experience, I like the way these work for me.

Redline Products are a little more but my car is worth it. 5W30 motor oil, 4 quarts of 75W90 NS gear oil for the transaxle, 1 quart of 75W90 gear oil for the rear differential, 1 bottle of WaterWetter for the radiator.

I think the only benefit is that the oil lasts longer.

I think the only benefit is that the oil lasts longer.

Please take great care how you apply this opinion. While 'synthetic' base stocks will often resist oxidation better than 'non-synthetic' base stocks (BTW, those are both marketing terms, nothing more), that does not mean you can run them longer than other oil types. Plus, poor grades of 'synthetic' stocks can be WORSE than high-quality 'non-synthetics.'

There's MUCH more to a fully-formulated lubricant than the base stock type. And, there's more than one way to 'skin a cat.' The ONLY thing you can be certain of is that a 'synthetic' will cost you more to buy. You simply CAN'T generalize beyond that just based on the term 'synthetic.'

Please take great care how you apply this opinion. While 'synthetic' base stocks will often resist oxidation better than 'non-synthetic' base stocks (BTW, those are both marketing terms, nothing more), that does not mean you can run them longer than other oil types. Plus, poor grades of 'synthetic' stocks can be WORSE than high-quality 'non-synthetics.'

There's MUCH more to a fully-formulated lubricant than the base stock type. And, there's more than one way to 'skin a cat.' The ONLY thing you can be certain of is that a 'synthetic' will cost you more to buy. You simply CAN'T generalize beyond that just based on the term 'synthetic.'


Just curious what you run in your Baja? Do you pay the extra for synthetic?

I have always used Penzoil Platinum Synthetic in my 06 STI...

I (well Penzoil) change it every 4000 miles.

Regular oil change = $30 / Synthetic = $80

Wow, Pennzoil Platinum is frequently $1.99 per quart at Pep Boys after mail-in rebate or BOGO from Advance Auto (if you have those).

PP is a very good oil but I'm reserving judgement in our application until I see more UOA's in turbo Subaru's. An STi owner on bitog is running it because he paid 99 cents a quart for it.

-Dennis

Thank you for all the feedback b/w this and resaerch and personal experience with friends of mine i made my decision but i am also coming up on the diff/trans fluid

what should i put in that my dealership told me MOTUL any feed back on that would helpful too...

I think Motul is overrated. People like it because it smells like gummy bears. Amsoil is a better product any day of the week.

I have tired almost every possible combination in my tranny. Even Scotty's cocktail. What i found that lightweight Redline Shockproof cannot be beat for longevity and overall smoothness and absolutely no notchyness.

Scotty's Cocktail is in close second. The only thing i found was that the effects of it didn't last as long than Redline LWSP alone.

After 10k it was starting to get notchy again. I tried the 3.8 of redline. Perfect after 15k.

If your never changed it (stock dino fluid). I would use the scotty's cocktail as a flush for about 3-5k then drain it.
Then put RL LW Shock proof in there. It will shift like butta and be good for at least 30k.


Or, if you picky like me 20k. Right when you think i think i may of felt something out of the norm its drained. The oils break down and loose effectiveness over time and you can feel by simply paying attention on how the shifting is day to day. Usually start to at the 20k mark. If it doesn't shift like butta it gets pulled out.

I switched at 30K

milage went up 2-3

EU's change oil with less frequency. I drive too many miles to keep up at 3k

makes sense for me and my time

*nevermind* :disco:

Just curious what you run in your Baja? Do you pay the extra for synthetic?

I started with Rotella T 10W30. I'm now running RenewableLube's BioSyn 5W30. I bought this oil for a Neon that the Baja replaced. If I'd bought it specifically for the Baja, I'd have bought their 0W30 instead. I'll have Dyson analyze it somewhere between 6 months and a year from now (I put ~10,000 miles/year on) and see how things look. I expect that I'll shortly replace the Schaeffer 80W90 diff oil (outstanding product, but not for extreme cold weather IMO) with some BioSyn 75W90.

Given what I know about the BioSyn, I'll continue to run it even if it ends up costing me slightly more than Rotella on a tight drain schedule. If for some reason it proves to not be a good match for this specific application, I'll go back to Rotella T. My Baja's not modified from stock, but I tow with it regularly so I'm actually on-boost more than most "hard drivers."

With only 13K miles -- I think you would definitely benefit by synthetic. Less sludge and buildup. Better for hot running engines.

--Bruce K.

NOT MOBIL 1 !!!! seriously look around.. mobil 1 is the worst synthetic you could possibly use

Rotella T Syn 5w-40

Definitely go synthetic, but get the right weight oil for your conditions. In my generally stock DD, I have used M1 5W30 with no issues for 49K. After my warranty is up I will be increasing the power of the car and I will change my oil to a more appropriate oil (thicker) at that time. It depends on the conditions you will be driving. If you are really concerned get your oil analyzed.

Thank you for all the feedback b/w this and resaerch and personal experience with friends of mine i made my decision but i am also coming up on the diff/trans fluid

what should i put in that my dealership told me MOTUL any feed back on that would helpful too...

NOT MOBIL 1 !!!! seriously look around.. mobil 1 is the worst synthetic you could possibly use

Mobile 1 isn't that bad. I heard on here "its a ScapeGoat more than anything". I could not ever say it any better.

I am tired of people blaming there issues on M1. Why is it 40% of this board used M1 for 40-140k miles they never had any issues?

You read a lot of the horror stories of M1 thats why your sceerd.

Look at the Facts.
NUMBER UNO. :lol: My favorite this is a message board. People will tell you what they want and leave out vital details.
They don't want to make them self look stupid. They blame everything but them self.

The car doesn't blow a bearing without some chain of events leading to a catastrophic failure.
Also, if you never heard this. There is always a chain of failures that lead to a catastrophic event. (Hey i remember that from MMI).




The start of the point of failure below his mom should of swallowed him. J/K
He was low on oil.

"Oh i blew my rod through the block. I don't know how it happened. Everything was good. Nothing wrong with it at all. DAMN SUBARU! ..........................................The mechanic told me the oil pickup unit failed from the pan squishing it? That dosen't make sense. I seen it smoking but continued to drive for 5 miles to make it home to check it out. Then tried to rev it and see what happens than boom. Oh, and i was 2 quarts low"
:confused::rolleyes::lol:
This is a recreation brought to you from TampaRacing.com
There was like 6 things wrong i counted. Freakin great, if your low enough to pancake you oil pan please slap yourself. Its looks cool at HIN, but sorry to tell you those cars aren't driven on city streets.

2. Most of them were least a quart low on oil??
3. Bad bearing design from Subaru doesn't help among other things.
4. Severe to me if your 70yo and never take it past 4k rpms then run 5w-30.
5. If you ever hit full boost, plan to modify (your in the mindset of not content with stock), or modified your "turbo" scoobie you should be running a 40w regardless. Thats considered severe. Because, i bet you beat your scoobie more than the average old lady.
6. Subaru only says 30w oils because of the EPA's fuel consumption BS. Also, so the sticker doesn't say 19mpg city.
7. Most people were running thin thin oils. 0w 5w-30 even 20-25w??? :confused:
8. Name one OA that have came back from M1 looked like crap? ie. Royal Purple.


Thanks you for listening. You may bring your arguments. :banana: