Hey guys, a few questions.

I have everything in my engine bay ripped apart and though I might as well move my battery and my washer bottle to the trunk.

Few questions:

What gauge wire for washer bottle wire?

What gauge wire for battery positive/negavite?

Thanks, RYan

for the battery i would just run 2ga wire and as for the washer, 16ga should be good.

Shane

....d000000000000d....ya only really need the POS run up to the front of the car

my battery has been under my passengers seat for 4 years.....and only the POS is run to the underhood fusebox....the NEG is bolted to the seat mount bolt.

works great....same pc680 battery since SEP03 :D


:lol:

:lol: I kept reading POS as "piece of S" and not "Positive".

Scotty, I just picked up a used PC680 with an open top metal tray. I've heard conflicting opinions about whether or not the sealed batteries need a completely sealed battery tray for trunk mounting. I know yours is in a lunchbox under the passenger seat. What do you think?

Also, do you have pics of the connection in/on/at the fusebox? Just wondering what you did with the extra wires. I'm planning on trunk mounting the PC680 and in the winter, putting the stocker back in and removing the lightweight.

:lol: I kept reading POS as "piece of S" and not "Positive".

I did too and got really confused..

:lol: I kept reading POS as "piece of S" and not "Positive".

Scotty, I just picked up a used PC680 with an open top metal tray. I've heard conflicting opinions about whether or not the sealed batteries need a completely sealed battery tray for trunk mounting. I know yours is in a lunchbox under the passenger seat. What do you think?

Also, do you have pics of the connection in/on/at the fusebox? Just wondering what you did with the extra wires. I'm planning on trunk mounting the PC680 and in the winter, putting the stocker back in and removing the lightweight.

...beware that used battery....if it has been dropped---easy to do if ya underestimate the weight of the battery for its size!!!!....or if it has been overheated.....heat is bad juju for these AGM batteries.......and as far as sealing them.....they will only vent if severely abused/shorted/improperly used.....they are REALLY sealed, and I have never seen ANY evidence of any gassing/leaking with mine.

...and no pics of the POS in the fusebox....but I just followed the POS to the POS terminal in the fusebox and attached the cable---i soldered ring terminals on the associated cables and just bolted it on and done

Hey guys, a few questions.

I have everything in my engine bay ripped apart and though I might as well move my battery and my washer bottle to the trunk.

Few questions:

What gauge wire for washer bottle wire?

What gauge wire for battery positive/negavite?

Thanks, RYan

Uhh why would you move your battery and washer bottle to the trunk? Their an actual reason or just cause?:huh:

Uhh why would you move your battery and washer bottle to the trunk? Their an actual reason or just cause?:huh:

free up engine bay space?

I relocated mine and made a smaller reservoir for a while because I needed room for some stuff I was testing out..

Uhh why would you move your battery and washer bottle to the trunk? Their an actual reason or just cause?:huh:

....d000000000000000000000000000d....

mebbe ya just don't understand that taking that ~35 pounds of the battery and ~10 pounds(full) of the washer bottle OFF the front of the car(and all the rest of the garbage ya don't really need) makes a

H U G E

difference in how the car handles :banana:

Our cars are like 59%F/41%R, so moving weight to rear = win. Might help with rear-inside tire lift a bit. OP, from what I've read, you're going to want the battery as close to center and back of the rear seats as possible. If you have to pick a side, pick the passenger side, IIRC, the driver's side is a bit heavier in the front and back, but it may depend on how much gas you have.

....d000000000000000000000000000d....

mebbe ya just don't understand that taking that ~35 pounds of the battery and ~10 pounds(full) of the washer bottle OFF the front of the car(and all the rest of the garbage ya don't really need) makes a

H U G E

difference in how the car handles :banana:
Indeed.

I thought about deleting the washer bottle, but I want to keep it as functional as possible. So I am rigging up a bracket to hold it.

Our cars are like 59%F/41%R, so moving weight to rear = win. Might help with rear-inside tire lift a bit. OP, from what I've read, you're going to want the battery as close to center and back of the rear seats as possible. If you have to pick a side, pick the passenger side, IIRC, the driver's side is a bit heavier in the front and back, but it may depend on how much gas you have.
So you are saying passenger side, as forward as possible. I have no liner or anything in my trunk at all. I was planning on mounting it by the tail light, as there is a section there. And I can drill through the trunk and get underneath with easy access.

That puts the weight behind the rear axle with a large moment arm (think arm of a see saw). You either want to place it in front of the axle (most likely inside the car for us to do that) or as close to the axle as possible.

That puts the weight behind the rear axle with a large moment arm (think arm of a see saw). You either want to place it in front of the axle (most likely inside the car for us to do that) or as close to the axle as possible.

What he said.

You want as little weight that's not between the axels as possible.

Yo, ryan.
My battery is located behind my passenger seat.
www.summitracing.com.
And switch to a optima red top.

Your looking for 100-200$ for a kit, but they are everything you need.
They include:
Battery Relocation Kit, Aluminum Box, 2-Gauge Cables, Terminals, Hold-Down Hardware, Gommets, Cable Clamps,Kit

Kits vary. But they are nice!

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TAY%2D48101&view=64&N=700+4294912629
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG%2D6279&N=700+4294912629+115&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1200A&N=700+4294912629+115&autoview=sku

Check it.

If you autocross the battery can't be in the passenger compartment (ie, must be behind the rear seat.

If you autocross the battery can't be in the passenger compartment (ie, must be behind the rear seat.

...depends on class

^^ Right, forgot to mention that. In ESP it has to be behind.

Found this yesterday:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1384221

....d000000000000000000000000000d....

mebbe ya just don't understand that taking that ~35 pounds of the battery and ~10 pounds(full) of the washer bottle OFF the front of the car(and all the rest of the garbage ya don't really need) makes a

H U G E

difference in how the car handles :banana:

Uncle Scotty lol it seems as though you hold a wealth of information, but every time you post it seems like it's sarcastic mostly cause you always start of with doooooooooooooooood lol maybe it's me i dunno. But since everyones agreeing with you i assume your not being sarcastic :lol: that being said I assume removing weight is mainly for non-street purposes. Then again, to each his own. :devil:

It makes the car handle better on the street and off the street. Of course your gas mileage will be slightly, ever so slightly better. It just makes the car more enjoyable. For those of us that AX, we look to drop extra weight and, when possible, change the front biased weight distribution. Figure, take 35 lbs off the front, add 4lbs of wiring from the front to back and a 15 lb battery and overall you've dropped 16 lbs, but removed 35 from the front. Braking won't nose dive as much, and turning will be tighter.

US knows his stuff. He usually goes DOOOOOOD! when he's said the same thing over and over and.....hehe.

It makes the car handle better on the street and off the street. Of course your gas mileage will be slightly, ever so slightly better. It just makes the car more enjoyable. For those of us that AX, we look to drop extra weight and, when possible, change the front biased weight distribution. Figure, take 35 lbs off the front, add 4lbs of wiring from the front to back and a 15 lb battery and overall you've dropped 16 lbs, but removed 35 from the front. Braking won't nose dive as much, and turning will be tighter.

US knows his stuff. He usually goes DOOOOOOD! when he's said the same thing over and over and.....hehe.

lol nice. I know you know alot about things as well Mech. I've seen your post somethings before and it looked like you knew what you were talking about:) anyway Doing all this is pointless unless you have a motive for your car other then a DD right lol. I don't plan on doing this but then again who knows I think i wana try some type of races with my car something off road maybe i dunno. Not sure what different races their are blah blah. Anyway GOOD LUCK WITH THE MODS! :banana:

It is a little pointless for a DD. For AX it's a good mod, and if you're trying to clean up the engine bay it's a good mod. Even if you're bored and want a bit of a DIY project it can be fun. Just for the cost (~$100 for a battery, ~$50 for wires/connectors, and extra for a box, etc) it's a lesser done mod since it's a decent investment. For DD, simply swapping out the battery for a lightweight is typically all that is done (just make sure you get a heatshield/wrap for it).

I need to figure out how to make the I/C spray reservoir double-function as the windshield water reservoir so I can just take the windshield washer reservoir out and just spray water with a tiny bit of alcohol on the windows :D

I need to figure out how to make the I/C spray reservoir double-function as the windshield water reservoir so I can just take the windshield water fluid out and just spray water with a tiny bit of alcohol on the windows :D

....d0000000000000000000d....ya ARE aware that winshield washer fluid HAS alcohol IN IT and many have used the -25° variety of winshield washer fluid AS ALCOHOL INJECTION FLUID with good results

the alcohol is GOOD for cleaning windows ;)

....and ya need a solenoid activated valve for that one ;)


....and anyone that thinks that moving the battery and removing weight off the front of a car for DD use is just NOT an enthusiast at heart and cares nothing for performance as removing weight off the front(and stiffening it) is one of the BEST POSSIBLE EVER THINGS TO DO FOR THE GD CHASSIS.

Don't blow sunshine up your own ass on this one.......take 100 pounds(REAL easy to do) off the front of the car and THEN tell me that it isn't worth it.


.......I'll wait

I need to figure out how to make the I/C spray reservoir double-function as the windshield water reservoir so I can just take the windshield washer reservoir out and just spray water with a tiny bit of alcohol on the windows :D

Take your pump out of your washer fluid reservoir, take the grommet too.

Drill a hole in the IS res, pop the grommet in, and snap the pump in. Extend wiring from engine bay to trunk, and presto. Your buttons will still work properly.

No need for a 'noid valve...you already have everything you need.

....d0000000000000000000d....ya ARE aware that winshield washer fluid HAS alcohol IN IT and many have used the -25° variety of winshield washer fluid AS ALCOHOL INJECTION FLUID with good results

the alcohol is GOOD for cleaning windows ;)

....and ya need a solenoid activated valve for that one ;)

I know alcohol is good for cleaning windows. It's why I mentioned it in my post (and partially because I already mix in 2-3% alcohol in my I/C tank) . But I'm not going to spray blue **** all over my intercooler. The Alcohol serves a dual purpose, some quick energy evaporation for I/C and the water can take care of the longer term energy transfer. Once I get wiring taken care of, I'll be all ready to go. (Ninja edit: actually 3 purposes as it can keep the water from freezing in the winter)

I think in your rush to be an ass, you didn't read what I said. I guess my sentence could have been more clear, as well. So, my bad on that.

It should have read:

I need to figure out how to make the I/C spray reservoir double-function as the windshield water reservoir. So, I can just take the windshield washer reservoir out of the car and just spray water with a tiny bit of alcohol on the windows from the I/C reservoir.

Again, my bad, I forget you have to spell everything out in extreme detail on the internet.

Take your pump out of your washer fluid reservoir, take the grommet too.

Drill a hole in the IS res, pop the grommet in, and snap the pump in. Extend wiring from engine bay to trunk, and presto. Your buttons will still work properly.

No need for a 'noid valve...you already have everything you need.

I'd also have to get lots of tubing for the water, right? Or am I missing some basic concept?

Yea, you'll need to tube the water to the front. I forgot about that. :lol:

Yea, you'll need to tube the water to the front. I forgot about that. :lol:

Yeah, shouldn't be too hard though. I could just follow the same path the I/C spray tank takes -- down the driver's side rear seats.

So I bought some stuff today.

-1inch flat bar - using it for a mounting setup for the washer bottle
-16ga wire - resevoir pump
-Battery terminals - cause I am radical
-Connecters.

What I need still:

-2ga wire - need to measure how much i need. 1.99 a foot.
-washer bottle hose to run to the front of the car


I am totally new to wiring so this is an expirament for me.

1. So, there is a positive from the fuse box. Can I run that to where the positive goes to the starter?

2. Do I have to ground the starter also?

I have a paranoid fab grounding kit too that I am goign to throw on to help the ****ty subaru grounding problems.

=Ryan

http://wgbuckley.com/projects/battery.html

This is a great link to exactly what I am doing for the battery.

:banana:

http://wgbuckley.com/projects/battery.html

This is a great link to exactly what I am doing for the battery.

:banana:

.......lota wasted time on that install......but, I guess it works for some

Ya no doubt.

Couple questions...

Talked to a buddy at a car audio shop and he said to use nothing but 0 ga wire. Others say 4ga will be more that sufficient. I am going to use a distributer box like the link.

Can i use 4ga?

...from the trunk....2ga or bigger.

My setup with the battery under the passengers seat has been fine with 4ga in use since SEP03

why should it be different with th length?

why should it be different with th length?

i'm pretty sure that the longer the wire is the higher the resistance gets so the further you need to travel. The lower the over all resistance of the wire needs to be to combat this so longer the wire the thicker the wire need to be for similar resistance.

Hmm okay i think i understand.

Thanks.

Hmm okay i think i understand.

Thanks.

I'm almost positive that is the reason but i would wait for someone else to verify but i know that when i relocated my battery to the trunk of my car in my vw i had to run at least 2 gauge because of the distance that had to be traveled.

V=IR (voltage = Current x Resistance)

The longer the wire, the greater the resistance (think about running, the farther you go, the more work it takes).

The greater the cross sectional area, the less the resistance (think about a small hose and then a large hose, the large one can flow more).

For a battery with a set voltage, the available cranking amps are determined by I=V/R. The higher the resistance, the more energy required to transverse the distance to the starter and the less energy (amps) available to actually start the car.

Okay thanks again!