As some of you may or may not know, we here at PERRIN have taken on a little project called Project $15K (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1371832). This is where we take a 2002 WRX and build the ultimate daily driver. After washing it and cleaning everything up it was time to change out all of the fluids. While doing this we decided that we should install our SLS.

Adding the PERRIN Subframe Lockdown System adds rigidity and stability to the rear end diff. This kit eliminates all driveline slop and the annoying thud that can be heard shifting from first to second. The results can be felt the first time you take off from a stop light at almost any speed. I have to say that this has to be one of the best “bang for your buck” mods I have ever done. For more information click here (http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/278).

Needed tools:
1) 12mm socket or wrench
2) 17mm socket or wrench
3) Jack and Jack stand

Step 1) Raise the vehicle to a desired height allowing you enough room to move freely. For this you will want to use jack stands to support the vehicle while working on the cross support. NEVER WORK ON A VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK.

Step 2) Time to remove tension from the differential, this will allow you to lower the differential stabilizer. You’ll need to get a floor jack for this next step. Placing the jack under the differential you’ll want to raise the differential roughly .5”.

Step 3) Using a 17mm socket remove the 17mm nuts securing the differential to the cross support. Remove the studs from the differential and the cross support by using the “Jam-Nut” method. (this is where you “jam” two 17mm nuts together on one stud. Then you can remove the stud by unscrewing the nut closest to the differential). Repeat this process on the remaining stud. If this method doesn’t work you’ll have to use a stud-extracting tool.

Step 4) Once the two studs are removed from the differential and the cross support you will remove the two 17mm bolts and nuts securing the differential stabilizer to the rear sub frame. Its now time to lower the differential, you will only need to lower it slightly to allow for clearance. If needed you may want to remove or lower the exhaust system allowing your self even more working room.

Step 5) Remove or lower the differential stabilizer from the sub frame. After you have done this you can install the 4 smaller red urethane bushings around the OEM Bushings center mounting points. (2 bushings installed on each side)

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/PERRIN_Ken/Project%2015k%20Rear%20Diff/Project15K030.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/PERRIN_Ken/Project%2015k%20Rear%20Diff/Project15K031.jpg

Step 6) After all 4 of the PERRIN bushings are in place you can now reinstall the differential support brace into the chassis. (Don’t fully tighten just yet)

Step 7) Raise the differential back into the car, line up the stud holes with the differential support holes and reinstall the studs.

Step 8) Tighten the differential stabilizer support bolts to 70ft-lbs. Now go back and tighten the nuts on bolts on the sub frame to 70ft-lbs.

Step 9) Time to install the rear sub frame lock out bolts. You’ll want to locate the empty threaded holes on the rear sub frame. Screw the bolt and bushing into the empty hole on each side of the car. Tighten the bolts down to 60ft-lbs. (BOLTS AND SPACERS MAY MAK SOME POPPING SOUNDS WHILE THE BOLTS ARE BEING TIGHTENED INTO THE CHASSIS, THIS IS NORMAL)

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/PERRIN_Ken/Project%2015k%20Rear%20Diff/Project15K017.jpg

Step 10) Locate the differential front support beam and the 2 outer bolts securing it to the chassis. Remove the passenger side large bolt securing the front support beam to the chassis, and the two bolts securing the plate to the chassis.

Step 11) Pull down the front support brace until there is enough room to place the new bushings on top of the OEM bushings. Make sure to install bushings between steel flat washer and OEM bushing.

Step 12) Reinstall the plate back onto the chassis and tighten the 12mm bolts to 25ft-lbs. Install the large 17mm bolt through the bushings and tighten to 100ft-lbs.

Step 13) Repeat step 10, 11, and 12 on the drivers side.

Step 14) Lower vehicle and test drive.


Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance™
AIM: perrinsales4
1-503-693-1702 Ex. 113
WWW.PERRINPERFORMANCE.COM (http://www.perrinperformance.com/)

kk i failed miserably at installing the screws, i wasn't able to loosen the 2 bolts. do i need to have the car lifted or can I use ramps?

i used a ramp and couldn't loosen it.

Hey there
I hope this can be of some help? First off you don’t have to place the vehicle on jack stands. You can park it on ramp’s, however I personally feel a little more safe if the vehicle is being supported by stands.

Once you remove the studs on the differential and remove the bolts on the cross support everything should be loss allowing you to lower the diff and the differential stabilizer. If you have any questions feel free to give me a call.

Happy Holidays

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance™
AIM: altaperrinsales4
1-503-693-1702 Ex. 113
WWW.PERRINPERFORMANCE.COM (http://www.perrinperformance.com/)

subscribe:

You should do something similar for Legacy. In low temp there is a growling noise from the diff bushings flexing. There is a long thread about this on legacygt.com:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48567

not trying to knock the product at all, actually thinking of purchasing it for my dd legacy wagon, but I am interested in the effectiveness of a insert ring bushing support design vs a full bushing replacement (which I have on my WRX along with whitleline subframe locks)

updates?

not trying to knock the product at all, actually thinking of purchasing it for my dd legacy wagon, but I am interested in the effectiveness of a insert ring bushing support design vs a full bushing replacement (which I have on my WRX along with whitleline subframe locks)

Jeff tried both on his personal WRX's. He found little performance improvement when he made them completely solid but had higher levels of NVH. Hence the reason he designed the kit in this fashion. Should work great on strip, street or rally. I am personally amazed at how differently the car FEELS when driving it with this inexpensive mod. I hate that clunk from 1/2nd and that is gone with this installed.

Thanks for asking!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

updates?

Thanks for asking. If you mean to Project 15K, then CLICK HERE! (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1371832&page=3)

If there is something else we can update you on. Just let me know!

Thanks again for asking!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

Also as a special treat to those following the Project 15K saga, I am offering a 15% discount on the SLS system when ordered directly from our website.

CLICK HERE! (http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/278/Subframe-Lockdown-System-SLS-)

During checkout apply coupon code SLSRULES (must be caps no spaces) to get 15% off the item! This is a great deal on a great product!

Thanks again NASIOC!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

mine went on without a hitch:D

I used Tic rear bushings
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Crazykevwrx/Picture1298.jpg

Upgraded to an 07Sti R180 while I was at it and an alum driveshaft
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Crazykevwrx/Picture1301.jpg

Thanks for the price break! I just ordered my set. I am in the process of tightening the car up. Last week a front strut brace and steering rack bushings. Looking forward to the SLS system firming up the rear.

Jeff tried both on his personal WRX's. He found little performance improvement when he made them completely solid but had higher levels of NVH. Hence the reason he designed the kit in this fashion. Should work great on strip, street or rally. I am personally amazed at how differently the car FEELS when driving it with this inexpensive mod. I hate that clunk from 1/2nd and that is gone with this installed.

Thanks for asking!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

thanks for the response, I will have to give them a try when the wife hits the approval button lol

Thanks folks! Appreciate it! nice photos above btw!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

Just out of curiosity, in general what is the install time for this kit? My free time on the weekends is at a premium, and it helps my marital relations if I can at least give the wife a schedule of when I will be in the garage.

Thanks.

Just out of curiosity, in general what is the install time for this kit? My free time on the weekends is at a premium, and it helps my marital relations if I can at least give the wife a schedule of when I will be in the garage.

Thanks.

Assuming you have the right tools and oil ready to go. Most clients would be done within an hour or two MAX. Very straightforward to install.

Hope that helps!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

Thats about what I figured. Parts showed up last night. Cant wait to get them on this weekend.

Kool! keep us posted!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

Thats about what I figured. Parts showed up last night. Cant wait to get them on this weekend.

If you have any questions about the install just let me know, I'm here to help.

Thanks

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance™
AIM: perrinsales4
1-503-693-1702 Ex. 113
WWW.PERRINPERFORMANCE.COM (http://www.perrinperformance.com/)

Just ordered mine, good lookin' out on the discount. That 1st-2nd thump drives me nuts!

Just ordered mine, good lookin' out on the discount. That 1st-2nd thump drives me nuts!

Thanks for the biz-nez! Keep us posted on the results once you get things in!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

had mine on my sti for about 3 months, really can feel a difference in the rear, excellent product, thanks perrin!!!!!

Just ordered one for my wagon. Can't wait to give it a try, thanks for the price break!

had mine on my sti for about 3 months, really can feel a difference in the rear, excellent product, thanks perrin!!!!!

Thank you!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

Just ordered one for my wagon. Can't wait to give it a try, thanks for the price break!

Anytime! Thanks for the biz-nez!

Adam

Just ordered one as well awesome pricing. Thanks Perrin!

Excellante'

Thanks again!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

Also as a special treat to those following the Project 15K saga, I am offering a 15% discount on the SLS system when ordered directly from our website.

CLICK HERE! (http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/278/Subframe-Lockdown-System-SLS-)

During checkout apply coupon code SLSRULES (must be caps no spaces) to get 15% off the item! This is a great deal on a great product!

Thanks again NASIOC!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

Coupon doesn't work anymore?

Coupon doesn't work anymore?


I'll get that fixed ASAP, feel free to PM me your order and we'll get it to you.

Sorry

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance
503-693-1702 Ex.113
ken.jubb@perrinperformance.com

Fixed!

SLSRULES is working until the end of the month! Sorry for the confusion!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

Time is running out, only a couple more days for the sale.

Just PM or call with questions

Thanks

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance
503-693-1702 Ex.113
ken.jubb@perrinperformance.com

is it me or does the perrin and whiteline subframe kits look the same but they install differant?

is it me or does the perrin and whiteline subframe kits look the same but they install differant?

What do you mean?

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

How long is the sale for?

How long is the sale on?

How long is the sale on?

It was extended through the end of February for now. Let me know if I can help with the order!

Thanks for asking!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

i mean i am looking at both installs and the perrin loks like it is for the rear and the whiteline and kart boy are for the front it seems to me cause on the whiteline install guide it says nothing about the rear diff its all for the front

i mean i am looking at both installs and the perrin loks like it is for the rear and the whiteline and kart boy are for the front it seems to me cause on the whiteline install guide it says nothing about the rear diff its all for the front

Got it now! Different product. The PSRS from PERRIN goes on the front. Click HERE (http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/274/Positive-Steering-Response-System?category=8&model=18)!

VS.

The subframe lock down shown in the DIY above.

Each product does a different thing. The PSRS is an anti-lift system for the front suspension under braking and hard acceleration. Plus with the additional caster angle it dramatically improves steering response. (Hence the name Positiver Steering Response System.)

The rear subframe lockdown system prevent axle trounce, driveline lash, improves throttle to drivetrain control etc.

Thank you for the follow-up question!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

oooo so the whiteline and kartboy kits are just a step blow the psrs system? instead of the psrs peice they use bushings? is that what you are telling me? and would it be wise if i made my own bushings for the rear diff bushings inserts because i have left over polyurethane bushgings from my energy suspension kit i got for my old car and im pretty sure if i trimmed them down i could make them fit do you think this would be wise?

Finally got around to installing mine last night. I love it!!! Easy install and small investment for a huge return in the feel of the car. Infreakincredible.

oooo so the whiteline and kartboy kits are just a step blow the psrs system? instead of the psrs peice they use bushings? is that what you are telling me? and would it be wise if i made my own bushings for the rear diff bushings inserts because i have left over polyurethane bushgings from my energy suspension kit i got for my old car and im pretty sure if i trimmed them down i could make them fit do you think this would be wise?

First part yes that is correct.

Second you should be just fine. As long as you can get it to fit that is ok. You will be missing all of the metal piece to lock the subframe, but other than that you are a-ok!

Let us know how we can help further!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

Finally got around to installing mine last night. I love it!!! Easy install and small investment for a huge return in the feel of the car. Infreakincredible.

NICE! Thanks for the post and the biz-nez!

Adam

Are you going to offer this for 2008+ Impreza? If so it should also fit 2005+ Legacy. Supposedly all the bushings are the same.

ive had a list of parts of parts im working twords. its large. this rear subframe lockdown was on the list and now that its on sale i ordered it . let the suspension work begin . this is my first step in rear . next comes larger sway bar , end links , mounts, lateral links, trailing links , assorted chassis stiffening bars ,well see how it feels after all that in the rear if its too loose still ill look at coilovers. i just cant see swapping out the stocker struts and springs yet cause they still work . once they go bad ill upgrade , but we will see how other mods affect performance first.

Are you going to offer this for 2008+ Impreza? If so it should also fit 2005+ Legacy. Supposedly all the bushings are the same.

I will have Jeff make a new kit for the 08. It is different!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

ive had a list of parts of parts im working twords. its large. this rear subframe lockdown was on the list and now that its on sale i ordered it . let the suspension work begin . this is my first step in rear . next comes larger sway bar , end links , mounts, lateral links, trailing links , assorted chassis stiffening bars ,well see how it feels after all that in the rear if its too loose still ill look at coilovers. i just cant see swapping out the stocker struts and springs yet cause they still work . once they go bad ill upgrade , but we will see how other mods affect performance first.

First THANK YOU for the purchases. I agree you should build your car in the manner you want to do it. Choose as you want the upgrades to go. Let us know how we can help with any of the planing etc.

Thanks again for choosing PERRIN!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

I will have Jeff make a new kit for the 08. It is different!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

I know it's different from older Imprezas. But it should be the same or very similar to Legacy. Please offer this for Legacy as well. Legacy suffers from driveline vibrations even on stock cars in cold weather!! And almost always on modified cars. See this thread:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1015596

I know it's different from older Imprezas. But it should be the same or very similar to Legacy. Please offer this for Legacy as well. Legacy suffers from driveline vibrations even on stock cars in cold weather!! And almost always on modified cars. See this thread:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1015596

We are ON IT! Already chatting with Jeff as I type!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

i ordered my kit and its on the way . ok the bushing upgrades i understand and im down. but the lock out bolts? ok do these lock out the rear diff??? like make it useless and make my rear axles act as one?this is what i understand a diff lock out to be . or does it just tighten up the suspension? im curious because i would love to lock my rear diff on the dirt , but on a road i like the function of the rear diff . can you please clarify what exactly the " lock out " bolts accomplish?

We are ON IT! Already chatting with Jeff as I type!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

Good. If you will be first to market a solution for the noise in Legacy, I guess like half of the site members will buy a set from you. Hurry!

i ordered my kit and its on the way . ok the bushing upgrades i understand and im down. but the lock out bolts? ok do these lock out the rear diff??? like make it useless and make my rear axles act as one?this is what i understand a diff lock out to be . or does it just tighten up the suspension? im curious because i would love to lock my rear diff on the dirt , but on a road i like the function of the rear diff . can you please clarify what exactly the " lock out " bolts accomplish?


anyone know the answer to this????

From what I understand, this is the bolt you're talking about. I'm pretty sure the bolt just locks down the subframe and doesn't allow the diff to clunk around.

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/PERRIN_Ken/Project%2015k%20Rear%20Diff/Project15K017.jpg

What can I do if the threads that the subframe bolts are screwed into are rusted off?

ATK: That is correct. That is bolt / shim combo right there. Prevents the subframe from jouncing around!

Spike700: I may be missing something in the question, but my opinion would be to clean them and re-tap them. Should be a relatively easy affair. Let me know if I missed something!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

sweet , thats exactly what i thought it did . so what the bolts are . they are lock down bolts. i was just concerned they locked the rear diff . but i think welding is the only way to hook that up. just trying to be as informed as possible thanks for the clarification.

Thanks Adam,

No you didn't miss anything. The threads are rusted out on my car so I was just wondering if there was something I could do. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks Adam,

No you didn't miss anything. The threads are rusted out on my car so I was just wondering if there was something I could do. Thanks for the advice.

Koolio! No problem! Keep me posted!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

"Locate the differential front support beam and the 2 outer bolts securing it to the chassis. Remove the passenger side large bolt securing the front support beam to the chassis, and the two bolts securing the plate to the chassis."

I have the parts on order. Is this step pretty obvious? I didn't see anything picturing this?

"Locate the differential front support beam and the 2 outer bolts securing it to the chassis. Remove the passenger side large bolt securing the front support beam to the chassis, and the two bolts securing the plate to the chassis."

I have the parts on order. Is this step pretty obvious? I didn't see anything picturing this?

Yeah I wouldn't stress just yet. It is pretty easy once you have the parts and car in front of you. However, if you DO get into a pinch, then let us know. Always happy to help!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

installed this this past weekend. There is a circular piece of metal above the forward crossmember/brace, in between the stock rubber and the chassis....

Its not described/referenced in the instructions.. is this removed, or does the urethane bushing go on-top-of or below?

same thing here man . on one side i put the plate underneath. on the other i put it on top.

when i put the second side together it was obvious the metal plate goes on top of the red bushing. i went back to the otherside and the metal plate was all bent up cause i put it on wrong. after fixing it and tightening everything up im pretty sure it bent back into place. it feels fine. next time i hae the car up on ramps or stands ill recheck everything.

YES the metal plate goes on top. Good point on the instructions, thanks.

I'll have our instruction man look at it to see how we can illustrate that.

From what I understand, this is the bolt you're talking about. I'm pretty sure the bolt just locks down the subframe and doesn't allow the diff to clunk around.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/PERRIN_Ken/Project%2015k%20Rear%20Diff/Project15K017.jpg
Ya, those bolts, need to be tightened. In that position the subframe will not be locked down. Just crank'em down!

YES the metal plate goes on top. Good point on the instructions, thanks.

I'll have our instruction man look at it to see how we can illustrate that.



Dammit! I just got around to installing this weekend, and was asking myself the same thing. I put bushing on top of plate because it didnt seem like the plate was going to sit flush against the chassis (I didnt notice it was there until it was fully disassembled).

Luckily though the install was very easy. My wife was amazed as it was the first time I told her I would be back in from the garage in an hour, and I actually was.



As a tip, I know a lot of people talk about the lockout bolts not threading in correctly. I took a tooth brush, which fits up there perfectly, and some cleaner and scrubbed the threads out well, and then blew them out with some air just to be sure. I also put a bit of lithium grease at the start of the bolt threads to ease the start. Both bolts went in nice and easy (finger tighten first for sure).

how much does NVH does it make?

how much does NVH does it make?

Very little. The biggest change you might notice is on expansion joints in the road. Others in this thread may be able to better relay their experiences now that they have the system installed.

Thanks for asking!

Adam.taft@perrinperformance.com

I have only been on it a few days, but what I can say is that overall NVH is minimal. However, if you hit a pothole or something else in the road with the rear wheel, the sound transmission is much greater than stock.

Just installed this kit. Only kind of hard part was aligning the bolt holes after installing the bushings on the differential stabilizer. Overall not a hard install at all.

I installled this kit on my 05 wagon last spring and I love it. The install was easy with jack stands and hand tools. The car immediatly felt much more solid. You really feel the acceleration and it's much easier to be very precise with steering, braking, and acceleration. I highly recomend it. The NVH isn't that noticeable and it's kind of nice to hear the car.

I have only been on it a few days, but what I can say is that overall NVH is minimal. However, if you hit a pothole or something else in the road with the rear wheel, the sound transmission is much greater than stock.

Thank you for the honest feedback. That is what can make NASIOC GREAT!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

Just installed this kit. Only kind of hard part was aligning the bolt holes after installing the bushings on the differential stabilizer. Overall not a hard install at all.

KOOL! Thanks for the business!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

Here is a little help for you weekend warriors

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance
503-693-1702 Ex.113
ken.jubb@perrinperformance.com

I really like the idea of this kit... I drive an '00 RS, but I drive it hard as hell and beat it into the ground off road....sometimes litterly, that's why I keep a winch.... So after 150K, it's easy to understand why I get those jolts not just in first and second, but also third... I've always known there to be alot of unwanted slop in the driveline, but I also know there's alot of rust....So I guess I'm just skeptical about doing this mod, because my rear end is held together by frozen bolts.

Uh, I guess my two questions are, after seeing this thread just now, is that sale still active, and also....You guys have any suggestion for if I break/ and forced to destroy bolts? Like, can you guys at least supply me with some dimensions so I can run by the hardware store and get new ones?

IM sent

Have a good night

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance
503-693-1702 Ex.113
ken.jubb@perrinperformance.com

nice writeup

nice writeup

Hey thanks! Anytime we can help you out, let us know!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

im not sure i understand what everyone means by "difference" does this kit just eliminate that "clunk" from 1st to 2nd? or does it help with acceleration? please explain, i'm very new to subies but at the same time very curious.

im not sure i understand what everyone means by "difference" does this kit just eliminate that "clunk" from 1st to 2nd? or does it help with acceleration? please explain, i'm very new to subies but at the same time very curious.

Well both and then some. The clunk is a biggy for sure that is eliminated. The throttle control is the next thing in my mind, as the slop is gone, thus the throttle input is more immediately felt through the car. Finally the control of the rear suspension is improved.

Hope that helps! Let me know!

Adam

thanks! that did clear things up for me. since i don't have a shop or the tools to do any thing to my car myself, how much do you think it should cost to install?

thanks! that did clear things up for me. since i don't have a shop or the tools to do any thing to my car myself, how much do you think it should cost to install?

A good shop shouldn't charge more than for one hour of installation time. It is VERY straightforward to install.

PLEASE let me know if I can help in anyway further.

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

what area of work would this kit be placed under? should i take it to a tranny shop or the average "all around" shop

what area of work would this kit be placed under? should i take it to a tranny shop or the average "all around" shop

I would suggest someone that is proficient in suspension work. Midas wouldn't be my ideal choice.:lol:

really? finally! someone states a shop that is actualy in my area. thanks again!

ive had a list of parts of parts im working twords. its large. this rear subframe lockdown was on the list and now that its on sale i ordered it . let the suspension work begin . this is my first step in rear . next comes larger sway bar , end links , mounts, lateral links, trailing links , assorted chassis stiffening bars ,well see how it feels after all that in the rear if its too loose still ill look at coilovers. i just cant see swapping out the stocker struts and springs yet cause they still work . once they go bad ill upgrade , but we will see how other mods affect performance first.

Also as a special treat to those following the Project 15K saga, I am offering a 15% discount on the SLS system when ordered directly from our website.

CLICK HERE! (http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/278/Subframe-Lockdown-System-SLS-)

During checkout apply coupon code SLSRULES (must be caps no spaces) to get 15% off the item! This is a great deal on a great product!

Thanks again NASIOC!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com
i tried but didn't work, is 15% off still available?
Thanks

I installed the kit and I have one concern. I can feel the ring and pinion gears meshing in 2nd and 3rd gear right around 3500 rpm. I am wondering if this is normal.

I am wondering if I have installed the front bushings correctly (the 2 largest bushings in the kit. I installed the bushings on top of the support beam and mounted the plates on top but the bushings never seemed to seat flush in the mounting location. They seem to be bulging out. Does anyone think this is causing the gear vibration I am experiencing?

Other then that I love the Perrin SLS!

i tried but didn't work, is 15% off still available?
Thanks


That promotion ended last month! But shoot me an e-mail and I will see what I can do! Ok?

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

I installed the kit and I have one concern. I can feel the ring and pinion gears meshing in 2nd and 3rd gear right around 3500 rpm. I am wondering if this is normal.

I am wondering if I have installed the front bushings correctly (the 2 largest bushings in the kit. I installed the bushings on top of the support beam and mounted the plates on top but the bushings never seemed to seat flush in the mounting location. They seem to be bulging out. Does anyone think this is causing the gear vibration I am experiencing?

Other then that I love the Perrin SLS!

How do your photos compare to those in the DIY? If you matched those, it should be fine.

PLEASE let us know how we can help further!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com

I too just tossed in the Kit.

Install wise, all went well on the bushing part of the task, but when it came time to throw the bolts in....things changed.

I finished up the rear diff bushings, tightened the nuts back up, and went onto installing the two "Lock-down Bolts" (the Grade 12+ Monsters included with the kit.). I put one in the proper hole, tightened by hand for a turn or so, then moved on to handtools. After a few turns I noticed there was no more tightening, just spinning.

So, something broke. I know the hole is not stripped as I had threads going in, and I cannot remove the dangling bolt now. My questions are: were the threads we were utilizing for this kit (the inside of the Factory hole) simply a nut welded onto the other side of the frame? Also, were do I go from here?

Im left with all the bushings installed. One lockout bolt in my hand, and the other dangling(yet not coming out) halfway into the frame.

I too just tossed in the Kit.

Install wise, all went well on the bushing part of the task, but when it came time to throw the bolts in....things changed.

I finished up the rear diff bushings, tightened the nuts back up, and went onto installing the two "Lock-down Bolts" (the Grade 12+ Monsters included with the kit.). I put one in the proper hole, tightened by hand for a turn or so, then moved on to handtools. After a few turns I noticed there was no more tightening, just spinning.

So, something broke. I know the hole is not stripped as I had threads going in, and I cannot remove the dangling bolt now. My questions are: were the threads we were utilizing for this kit (the inside of the Factory hole) simply a nut welded onto the other side of the frame? Also, were do I go from here?

Im left with all the bushings installed. One lockout bolt in my hand, and the other dangling(yet not coming out) halfway into the frame.
Well that about stinks! But it is a good lesson. These threaded holes are uncovered at the factory and thus subject to all kinds of crud and junk going in there. It is an EXCELLENT installation procedure to clean and possibly chase these threads prior to installation of the supplied bolts. Also, double check them against those supplied in the kit to be sure they match. There can always be an error made, or change in the vehicles as well.

I hope you can get that out of there, cleaned up and back in business ASAP.

Ring Jeff or I tomorrow if we can help in anyway. Thanks again!



ADAM TAFT
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Adam Taft
CEO
PERRIN Performance™
503.693.1702 Ex. 110
WWW.PERRINPERFORMANCE.COM (http://www.perrinperformance.com)
Website (http://www.perrinperformance.com) • Blog (http://www.perrinperformance.com/blogs/index/8) • Myspace (http://myspace.com/_perrinperformance) • E-mail (adam.taft@perrinperformance.com) • AIM (aim:goim?screenname=salesalta&message=Hey+I+saw+y ou+on+NAM)
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Hmmm... I guess the whole rear is coming off then.

Wish me luck!

Hmmm... I guess the whole rear is coming off then.

Wish me luck!


GOOD LUCK!


ADAM TAFT
************************************
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Adam Taft
CEO
PERRIN Performance™
503.693.1702 Ex. 110
WWW.PERRINPERFORMANCE.COM (http://www.perrinperformance.com)
Website (http://www.perrinperformance.com) • Blog (http://www.perrinperformance.com/blogs/index/8) • Myspace (http://myspace.com/_perrinperformance) • E-mail (adam.taft@perrinperformance.com) • AIM (aim:goim?screenname=salesalta&message=Hey+I+saw+y ou+on+NAM)
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I still dont understand why this happened. The only reason I can guess is that the Subaru factory threads arent always welded to 100% potential on something they didnt plan on using. I know a weld broke in there, that has to be the situation, but I cant see why other than poor manufacturing. The threads were cleaned with PB Blaster, Simple Green, Brushes and Compressed air. The Bolts threaded in easily until they stopped tightening. Am I losing faith in Subie now...?

I still dont understand why this happened. The only reason I can guess is that the Subaru factory threads arent always welded to 100% potential on something they didnt plan on using. I know a weld broke in there, that has to be the situation, but I cant see why other than poor manufacturing. The threads were cleaned with PB Blaster, Simple Green, Brushes and Compressed air. The Bolts threaded in easily until they stopped tightening. Am I losing faith in Subie now...?

Yeah that is just weird. Sorry you had that happen at all!



ADAM TAFT
************************************
http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/images/forums/signatures/sigadam.gif

Adam Taft
CEO
PERRIN Performance™
503.693.1702 Ex. 110
WWW.PERRINPERFORMANCE.COM (http://www.perrinperformance.com)
Website (http://www.perrinperformance.com) • Blog (http://www.perrinperformance.com/blogs/index/8) • Myspace (http://myspace.com/_perrinperformance) • E-mail (adam.taft@perrinperformance.com) • AIM (aim:goim?screenname=salesalta&message=Hey+I+saw+y ou+on+NAM)
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Any chance of this fitting older Foresters? Say, a 2002?

Any chance of this fitting older Foresters? Say, a 2002?

Kurlon,

The rear diff cover should fit, but the subframe lockdown won't because the subframe is different. Thanks!

Ok, so I was under my car today and it seems my rear subframe is a little different. I have a 2000 2.5RS with a diff. cover that was there when I bought it. I don't know if that makes a difference, but basically, mine varies, for whatever reason, from both your and my manuals pictures of what it should look like. Where those two center holes in the subframe that are close together are, that's where my bushings are, and how the diff connects to the subframe. I don't have that little "arm" that holds the bushings AT ALL. I'm wondering if these bushings will work for me and was wondering if I back that nut off on mine, is it just a stud that goes into the diff, or what? if so, how do I get your inside rear bushing on the stock bushing? Finally, would anyone be willing to measure those bushings for me so I can see if they'll fit?

That nut is rusted on there dame good, so I kinda want to know what that stud it's holding connects to on the diff, and how... Thanks...

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6922/rearog8.jpg

Ok, so I was under my car today and it seems my rear subframe is a little different. I have a 2000 2.5RS with a diff. cover that was there when I bought it. I don't know if that makes a difference, but basically, mine varies, for whatever reason, from both your and my manuals pictures of what it should look like. Where those two center holes in the subframe that are close together are, that's where my bushings are, and how the diff connects to the subframe. I don't have that little "arm" that holds the bushings AT ALL. I'm wondering if these bushings will work for me and was wondering if I back that nut off on mine, is it just a stud that goes into the diff, or what? if so, how do I get your inside rear bushing on the stock bushing? Finally, would anyone be willing to measure those bushings for me so I can see if they'll fit?

That nut is rusted on there dame good, so I kinda want to know what that stud it's holding connects to on the diff, and how... Thanks...



I'm 99% sure your car is just like the WRX, but if you could take a few pictures of your car under there we can help you out from there, thanks!

Is that 15% still available? Just curious.

Thanks :)

Any update on the Legacy GT kit?

Ok, so I was under my car today and it seems my rear subframe is a little different. I have a 2000 2.5RS with a diff. cover that was there when I bought it. I don't know if that makes a difference, but basically, mine varies, for whatever reason, from both your and my manuals pictures of what it should look like. Where those two center holes in the subframe that are close together are, that's where my bushings are, and how the diff connects to the subframe. I don't have that little "arm" that holds the bushings AT ALL. I'm wondering if these bushings will work for me and was wondering if I back that nut off on mine, is it just a stud that goes into the diff, or what? if so, how do I get your inside rear bushing on the stock bushing? Finally, would anyone be willing to measure those bushings for me so I can see if they'll fit?

That nut is rusted on there dame good, so I kinda want to know what that stud it's holding connects to on the diff, and how... Thanks...

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6922/rearog8.jpg

Your setup is different from the WRX in that it uses the old style of "bushing directly in the subframe." The rear diff bushings pictured here will not work. The outrigger bushings, and lock bolts will.

As for replacement bushings you'll need something different. The only that I know of on the market are either inserts or replacements. The replacements are a pain to put in as you need to drop the rear diff to press out the old ones, and press in the new ones.

Ironically, the new 08's use the old style of "bushing in the subframe." For some reason Subaru keeps flip flopping between that and the dog bone as years go on.

Any update on the Legacy GT kit?

Thanks for your question, we are actually working on a kit of the Legacy GT, and it should be out by the end of the year, thanks!

Awesome. I'll be one of the first customers for that part.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Do you know where I can get inserts, like this kit has? I assumed the bolts and bigger bushings would work, because they seem to be the same. Looking at the bushings, they looked a similar size....but didn't know. Thanks for the clarity.

Anyone know then where I can get the subframe/diff bushings for my kinda of rear end? Perrin, you guys making a kit for the new ones, or what? : D Sounds like I'll need that one.

Your setup is different from the WRX in that it uses the old style of "bushing directly in the subframe." The rear diff bushings pictured here will not work. The outrigger bushings, and lock bolts will.

As for replacement bushings you'll need something different. The only that I know of on the market are either inserts or replacements. The replacements are a pain to put in as you need to drop the rear diff to press out the old ones, and press in the new ones.

Ironically, the new 08's use the old style of "bushing in the subframe." For some reason Subaru keeps flip flopping between that and the dog bone as years go on.

same thing here man . on one side i put the plate underneath. on the other i put it on top.

when i put the second side together it was obvious the metal plate goes on top of the red bushing. i went back to the otherside and the metal plate was all bent up cause i put it on wrong. after fixing it and tightening everything up im pretty sure it bent back into place. it feels fine. next time i hae the car up on ramps or stands ill recheck everything.

I found this thread today after doing a search as I found it hard to believe that this problem was not experienced by many others.
Well I purchased my kit last February and just did the install as I had carpal tunnel surgery last spring and have had complications. I followed the included instructions to the letter as I have always believed Perrin products to be of the highest quality and thoroughly sorted out.
Well as I torqued the subject mentioned bolts to the required 100 ft. lbs. the problem became obvious. What pisses me off the most is that I assessed the situation with the bushing installed on top of the original, as instructed in the supplied instruction sheet, before torquing down and I was a little concerned as I could see that a portion of the bushing was overhanging. But I put my faith in Perrin instructions before my own common sense.
(lesson learned) Well I disassembled everything when it became apparent that something was wrong and then discovered that the plate on top of the stock bushing was removable.
I straightened the distorted plates and reassembled everything.
This should have never happened.
While doing the Rear Diff Lockout installation I also installed my Perrin rear Differential cover. Never was the removable vent mentioned in the included instructions. Additionally, I suspect that when I do the next fluid change I will be removing the cover in order to fabricate a proper vent shield/fluid deflector.
I write lesson plans to be used in firearms and armorer instruction and fully understand the importance of accuracy in the details.
I have spent a lot of money on Perrin products along with recommending these products over other brands to many other enthusiasts.
My confidence in Perrin products has been substantially reduced due to this experience.

I found this thread today after doing a search as I found it hard to believe that this problem was not experienced by many others.
Well I purchased my kit last February and just did the install as I had carpal tunnel surgery last spring and have had complications. I followed the included instructions to the letter as I have always believed Perrin products to be of the highest quality and thoroughly sorted out.
Well as I torqued the subject mentioned bolts to the required 100 ft. lbs. the problem became obvious. What pisses me off the most is that I assessed the situation with the bushing installed on top of the original, as instructed in the supplied instruction sheet, before torquing down and I was a little concerned as I could see that a portion of the bushing was overhanging. But I put my faith in Perrin instructions before my own common sense.
(lesson learned) Well I disassembled everything when it became apparent that something was wrong and then discovered that the plate on top of the stock bushing was removable.
I straightened the distorted plates and reassembled everything.
This should have never happened.
While doing the Rear Diff Lockout installation I also installed my Perrin rear Differential cover. Never was the removable vent mentioned in the included instructions. Additionally, I suspect that when I do the next fluid change I will be removing the cover in order to fabricate a proper vent shield/fluid deflector.
I write lesson plans to be used in firearms and armorer instruction and fully understand the importance of accuracy in the details.
I have spent a lot of money on Perrin products along with recommending these products over other brands to many other enthusiasts.
My confidence in Perrin products has been substantially reduced due to this experience.


Hi Steve,

Sorry you had any issues at all. I honestly don't understand the whole concern as I PERSONALLY haven't done this installation. BUT, we take all feedback and criticisms seriously and I know Jeff (Perrin) will be most interested in addressing these concerns ASAP. He is out until Monday but I am sending him a link to this post right now.

These parts (LockDown Kit and Rear Differential) are very popular items and fully worth their monetary value in improved performance. I don't want a minor issue to tarnish the benefits of these products.

Thank you again and in advance for the patience on Jeff's reply.

http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/images/forums/signatures/sigadam.gif

Adam Taft
CEO
PERRIN Performance™
503.693.1702 Ex. 110
WWW.PERRINPERFORMANCE.COM (http://www.perrinperformance.com)
Website (http://www.perrinperformance.com) • Blog (http://www.perrinperformance.com/blogs/index/8) • Myspace (http://myspace.com/altaadam) • E-mail (adam.taft@perrinperformance.com) • AIM (aim:goim?screenname=salesalta&message=Hey+I+saw+y ou+on+NAM)

wait so on the differential cover install you have to remove a fluid vent and reinstall it with the new cover?

I found this thread today after doing a search as I found it hard to believe that this problem was not experienced by many others.
Well I purchased my kit last February and just did the install as I had carpal tunnel surgery last spring and have had complications. I followed the included instructions to the letter as I have always believed Perrin products to be of the highest quality and thoroughly sorted out.
Well as I torqued the subject mentioned bolts to the required 100 ft. lbs. the problem became obvious. What pisses me off the most is that I assessed the situation with the bushing installed on top of the original, as instructed in the supplied instruction sheet, before torquing down and I was a little concerned as I could see that a portion of the bushing was overhanging. But I put my faith in Perrin instructions before my own common sense.
(lesson learned) Well I disassembled everything when it became apparent that something was wrong and then discovered that the plate on top of the stock bushing was removable.
I straightened the distorted plates and reassembled everything.
This should have never happened.
While doing the Rear Diff Lockout installation I also installed my Perrin rear Differential cover. Never was the removable vent mentioned in the included instructions. Additionally, I suspect that when I do the next fluid change I will be removing the cover in order to fabricate a proper vent shield/fluid deflector.
I write lesson plans to be used in firearms and armorer instruction and fully understand the importance of accuracy in the details.
I have spent a lot of money on Perrin products along with recommending these products over other brands to many other enthusiasts.
My confidence in Perrin products has been substantially reduced due to this experience.

Lets start with your subframe lockdown bushing install. It looks like all went well, except for the "monkey bar" bushing install. You are correct in that the bushing goes on top of the OEM bushing and under the steel plate. Our instructions do mention this in step #3 and even has a special note about it in parenthesis. I am sorry you missed this in the instructions, and maybe we need to make this a bolded item, or something so others don't miss it.

On the differential cover install again for 100% you do need that breather plug in the top installed into our diff cover. Our DIY did miss this step!! OOPS got to fix that! Our instructions do miss this step also! We screwed up on that one!

We have had this part for sale for almost 2 years now and never had a call about how they are installed or any thing relating to the plug missing from the instructions. Its a pretty obvious to be transfered from one to the other, which might be why. Even so its no excuse for not having it in the instructions!

The good news is that the breather plug can be removed from the old diff and installed into the old cover with out any issue at all. It is a tight fit but it can be done!

Again sorry for the issues you had, if you need a new diff breather plug we could get one sent out to you no problem! Just let us know!

if anyone reads this between now and Monday (maybe tuesday depending our snow issue) please make sure to either follow the above instructions not the ones downloaded from our site.

Thanks!

Lets start with your subframe lockdown bushing install. It looks like all went well, except for the "monkey bar" bushing install. You are correct in that the bushing goes on top of the OEM bushing and under the steel plate. Our instructions do mention this in step #3 and even has a special note about it in parenthesis. I am sorry you missed this in the instructions, and maybe we need to make this a bolded item, or something so others don't miss it. (Quote)

Please Sir, Don't insult my intelligence. I followed the exact instructions that were provided with a purchase that I made in February of 08. There was no special note in parenthesis. I would be happy to scan my instruction sheet that was provided with the kit in order to prove a point.

We have had this part for sale for almost 2 years now and never had a call about how they are installed or any thing relating to the plug missing from the instructions. Its a pretty obvious to be transferred from one to the other, which might be why. Even so its no excuse for not having it in the instructions! (QUOTE)

The good news is that the breather plug can be removed from the old diff and installed into the old cover with out any issue at all. It is a tight fit but it can be done! (QUOTE)

I agree that this step is quite obvious and I indeed did transfer the vent cover.
I am the one bringing this issue to your attention, and making an issue of it, I have to admit that I am very particular. Maybe excessive compulsive to a point.
I am a perfectionist and this the reason that I have been drawn to Perrin products in the past. The deeper that we venture into this situation, the more I am losing confidence.
Steve

I am not insulting anything, i looked at our instructions and this is what it says. Its possible if you had one packaged in Febuary of this year, that the instructions were made clearer. We are always changing instructions to make them more clear, or to help eliminate questions with an installation.

A simple answer back of, " the instructions i have do not have this info on there" would have sufficed. And my reply would have been just like above. I understand you are upset, but your tone seems way out of line, when mine was being helpful.

I guess more smiley faces would have been a good idea. But my response was not insulting in the least. We all miss things when reading them and i even offered to make them more clear by bolding them. I could understand you being upset had my answer been a simple, "Re-read step #3"

On the second issue with the diff i answered the same tone, saying you are correct, and that it was our mistake and we needed to fix it.

Did i miss something??

I am not insulting anything, i looked at our instructions and this is what it says. Its possible if you had one packaged in Febuary of this year, that the instructions were made clearer. We are always changing instructions to make them more clear, or to help eliminate questions with an installation.

A simple answer back of, " the instructions i have do not have this info on there" would have sufficed. And my reply would have been just like above. I understand you are upset, but your tone seems way out of line, when mine was being helpful.

I guess more smiley faces would have been a good idea. But my response was not insulting in the least. We all miss things when reading them and i even offered to make them more clear by bolding them. I could understand you being upset had my answer been a simple, "Re-read step #3"

On the second issue with the diff i answered the same tone, saying you are correct, and that it was our mistake and we needed to fix it.

Did i miss something??

What you are missing sir, is a returning customer.

Thank you for your time,
Steve

I agree that this step is quite obvious and I indeed did transfer the vent cover.
I am the one bringing this issue to your attention, and making an issue of it, I have to admit that I am very particular. Maybe excessive compulsive to a point.
I am a perfectionist and this the reason that I have been drawn to Perrin products in the past. The deeper that we venture into this situation, the more I am losing confidence.
Steve

I missed this while responding. Sorry.
Obsessive Compulsive is a good thing to be when it comes to things like this. Its a great way to perfect things like instructions. When we make them, we are the ones installing them, look at them everyday and take certain steps for granted because of it. Getting feedback from customers is how we improve things. If no one ever said anything about anything to us, we wouldn't have products like we do today. We listen to customers to help perfect things.

But what i dont understand is the way you did it. You sound like a reasonable person and an email, a call, a post with a better tone would have gotten the same thing done. HEll! We may have even sent you a shirt or something for your trouble!



What is your shirt size?

What you are missing sir, is a returning customer.

Thank you for your time,
Steve
Missed this one also. while typing.
Sorry it has come to that. I guess being helpful doens't always win customers back. I know what it is like to upset and mis some of what is said. Like most people when upset, i get hard of hearing/listening.

I am not insulting anything, i looked at our instructions and this is what it says. Its possible if you had one packaged in Febuary of this year, that the instructions were made clearer. We are always changing instructions to make them more clear, or to help eliminate questions with an installation.

A simple answer back of, " the instructions i have do not have this info on there" would have sufficed. And my reply would have been just like above. I understand you are upset, but your tone seems way out of line, when mine was being helpful.

I guess more smiley faces would have been a good idea. But my response was not insulting in the least. We all miss things when reading them and i even offered to make them more clear by bolding them. I could understand you being upset had my answer been a simple, "Re-read step #3"

On the second issue with the diff i answered the same tone, saying you are correct, and that it was our mistake and we needed to fix it.

Did i miss something??

What you are missing sir, is a returning customer.

Thank you for your time,
Steve

[QUOTE=PERRINJeff;24829998]I missed this while responding. Sorry.
Obsessive Compulsive is a good thing to be when it comes to things like this. Its a great way to perfect things like instructions. When we make them, we are the ones installing them, look at them everyday and take certain steps for granted because of it. Getting feedback from customers is how we improve things. If no one ever said anything about anything to us, we wouldn't have products like we do today. We listen to customers to help perfect things.

But what i dont understand is the way you did it. You sound like a reasonable person and an email, a call, a post with a better tone would have gotten the same thing done. HEll! We may have even sent you a shirt or something for your trouble!

I have enough shirts.
Thank You.
I brought this to your attention the way that I did because I have always felt that Perrin products were a cut above.
The best available.
I have been modifying Japanese cars since 1985 and have pretty well sorted out the also ran company's based on my experience.
Both of my Supra's are loaded with HKS and Greddy products.
Top shelf.
When I purchased my WRX I did an incredible amount of research and soon discovered that this was a different animal and required a different approach.
In the early times I called, and spoke personally with you Jeff.
Your input was extremely accurate and was the basic guidance that I used while sculpting my WRX.
Maybe I am being unfair in the standards that I hold Perrin products to.
My perception, based on my experience, is that Perrin products encompass all of the ingredients to indeed always be a cut above as long as the commander of the watch does not become complacent.
Steve

The initial post and instructions are all fixed up and uploaded to our site!
CLICK HERE FOR DIFF COVER (http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/321/Diff-Cover-High-Capacity?category=68&model=29)

I did look at our subframe lock down instructions and they were updated early July this year. Which does mean that there are some customers got the bushings without this added note. If anyone did and there washers got bent, give us a call or email and we can get you taken care of ASAP!

I did look at our subframe lock down instructions and they were updated early July this year. Which does mean that there are some customers got the bushings without this added note. If anyone did and there washers got bent, give us a call or email and we can get you taken care of ASAP!

I guess that it is just my luck.

I wish to apologize to all at Perrin for my aggressive approach to what was an unfortunate experience.
I had no idea that the subframe lock down instructions had been amended, nor have I ever had this portion of the subframe apart. I relied on the included instruction sheet and when I ran into the problem I became furious.
I still remember 5 yrs. ago when I opened the box that contained my Perrin up and downpipes. The quality and high polish really set me back. I almost declined to Swain Tech ceramic coat the parts because they were beautiful.
I did though as performance comes first with me. I was also very pleased with my Perrin catch can and radiator plate.
I've dealt with company's over the years that started out with incredible quality and service only to let things lapse as the demand grew and the bean counters became greedy. At that point I would move on and find other option to suit my needs as I am particular and my cars come second only to my family. Based on my recent experience I jumped the conclusion and made the assumption that Perrin was at that point. I was so pissed off that I brought the complaint here. I don't know if this was the best way to air my frustration or not but it's a little late now.
In addition to my offering an apology I would like to retract my statement that I would not be using Perrin parts in the future.
The correspondence that took place last night get pretty aggressive but maybe that was a good thing for all.
I'm ready to put this subject rest.

Steve

Does anyone know what the easiest way to remove the rear lockout aluminum bushing, seems like mine are completely pressed in. tried prying for hours and no luck. Bolts are out just the bushing is still pushed thru. I need to remove them because i went back to stock and im sick of the noises.

great kit btw, worked well for me

i just put the rear diff. subframe lockdown system in from perrin and its feels much better from 1st to 2nd.....concerning the noise its not bad at all for a daily its very little!!!! Also everyone who got the 4 bushings into the differential support brace, how were you able to remove the studs off the rear diff. i tried doing the jam nut method but it wouldn't budge!!!

just double nut it and use an open end wrench on the nut that is sandwiched and if you need more leverage take another wrench and use the box end by wedge it to extend the first wrench (mechanics trick) I got lucky and the studs just came out when i tried to break the nuts loose

GL

just double nut it and use an open end wrench on the nut that is sandwiched and if you need more leverage take another wrench and use the box end by wedge it to extend the first wrench (mechanics trick) I got lucky and the studs just came out when i tried to break the nuts loose

GL

i'll try that out, i was able to get everything from the kit on except for those 4 bushings.....what changes if you install those 4 bushing

well i Just put mine in yesterday...I havent had a chance to test it out yet cause of the weather, but It should stiffen the movement of the differential during on/ off throttle and shifting. what changes is you might now hear a bit of NVH. but your 1-2 shift should be more firm and you wont hear that clunk in the rear during hard shifts.

yeah the clunk went away with the bolts...surprisingly the lockdown bolts were in on first try i sprayed the holes with wd40 like 10 mins before, the passenger side bolt wasnt going in at first so i removed it cleaned up the threads on the bolt and hole and it was in!!! the NVH noise is bearable its not loud/annoying if you have music playing at a low volume you cant ever hear the noise!!! but you do feel a little bit of vibration, its not enough for me to start complaining, rather the really low NVH than the 1-2 clunk :)

yeah the clunk went away with the bolts...surprisingly the lockdown bolts were in on first try i sprayed the holes with wd40 like 10 mins before, the passenger side bolt wasnt going in at first so i removed it cleaned up the threads on the bolt and hole and it was in!!! the NVH noise is bearable its not loud/annoying if you have music playing at a low volume you cant ever hear the noise!!! but you do feel a little bit of vibration, its not enough for me to start complaining, rather the really low NVH than the 1-2 clunk :)

Yea I just tested mine this morning....I very much like it! The NVH wasnt too bad and since I straight cuts its not like it matters haha. Man what a Biotch those lock down bolts were, i got the drivers side in but for the passengers side i had to go out and buy a tap to clean the threads...after i did that it went in very nicely.

^^^ hey guys thanks for the business and for the honest comments here. Really helps other members here on NASIOC!

Let us know if we can ever help further!

PERRIN Performance (http://www.perrinperformance.com)

Yea I just tested mine this morning....I very much like it! The NVH wasnt too bad and since I straight cuts its not like it matters haha. Man what a Biotch those lock down bolts were, i got the drivers side in but for the passengers side i had to go out and buy a tap to clean the threads...after i did that it went in very nicely.


hahah i had the same thing for somereason my driver side went in...but my passenger side took 2 tries!!!

im still stuck with one stud still in my rear. other came out by hand no problem.

passenger sige the jam nut tecnique wont work , i heat it up nothing. put visegripson it nothing. im a big guy and ive pretty much exhausted myself to the point of when i try to twist it off it just smears metal. there are no threads left on it, i fabbed up 2 bolts to go in place of the stud but im stuck.

when i head over to my garage today ill give it a fourth try, if it dont come out i might have to drop the rear

im still stuck with one stud still in my rear. other came out by hand no problem.

passenger sige the jam nut tecnique wont work , i heat it up nothing. put visegripson it nothing. im a big guy and ive pretty much exhausted myself to the point of when i try to twist it off it just smears metal. there are no threads left on it, i fabbed up 2 bolts to go in place of the stud but im stuck.

when i head over to my garage today ill give it a fourth try, if it dont come out i might have to drop the rear
....wow that stud just won budge huh? have you rounded off the double nut on there? as a last resort, before you drop it, you can weld a nut on and use a long wrench to get some good torque and break it loose, of course you will have to purchase a new stud. So heat didn't even work huh?

dude nothing worked. nothing. i tried everything it stripped out the one nut when i did the jam nut thing. i think im gonna try and weld one on and get a box end on it like you stated. ive got 2 bolts that work.

ok update.

lockout bolts took a few tries battery impactin em in and back out and some pb blaster but they went in. the 2 big red bushings were by far the easiest thing ive done lately with my car. 3 bolts drop the plate (luckily for me the 2 very top plates stuck to the car) put em in and done deal.

overall im pleased with how easy it was.
now just my 0.02$ i think they should include a small wire brush with the kit to clean out those holes.

i used a toothbrush it didnt do jack.

wrxej205: Glad you were able to get everything done. Please feel free to PM me with any other questions in the future. Have a great weekend!

update: I was thinking that NVH was bearable but it turns out that the noise and the vibration was coming from my rear passenger side tire which had a massive bubble in it, i never realized this until i went for an alignment...so once i got the tire replaced there was absolutely no noise whatsoever....basically there is very little vibration and harshness but no noise at all, and the vibration is only felt in the gas pedal other than that not that much vibration......good job perrin with this kit, so far i have been blown away by all the perrin parts i have, the subframe lockdown and a perrin catless uppipe

update: I was thinking that NVH was bearable but it turns out that the noise and the vibration was coming from one my rear passenger side tire with had a massive bubble in it never realized this until i went for an alignment...so once i got the tire replaced there was absolutely no noise whatsoever....basically there is very little vibration and harshness but no noise at all, and the vibration is only felt in the gas pedal other than that not that much vibration......good job perrin with this kit, so far i have been blown away by all the perrin parts i have, the subframe lockdown and a perrin catless uppipe
Thanks for the love jaypt802! We always enjoy hearing how much people enjoy our parts. Let us know if we can be of any help!

Great Write-Up. I'll need to install my set of these at some point as they don't look THAT difficult to install.