I am trying to make my own step 2 launch control but don't know how with the program ECUFLASH. I know Enginuity (http://xpttuning.com/osecuroms/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=968) has a feature for it but their site is down and I know noone who has the program. My brother did it to his EVO VIII but attempted on mines and became clueless. Help?

Hmm.. Ive never seen FTL feature in Enginuity.. But that definitely doesn't mean that there isnt.. Im just unaware of it.:confused:

Teacups has said quite clearly, and I quote:
"There's no version of Enginuity that comes with launch control."

He did mention that it had been tested, and I quote:
"We've tested it, however no ETA at this time and it is not planned for the next release."

So for the time being, if you want 2-step rev limit (launch control) you will need to buy the Bee*R Limiter, or get a COBB AP, or an aftermarket ECU that has it.

The Bee*R is what I will be using, and it is fairly cheap.

Alright well thanks!

the Bee*R is launch control? i thought it was a misfiring system more like anti-lag. or is there even a difference?

I don't even know what a Bee*R is. But the Cobb kills ignition so I don't think I want to try anymore.

Teacups has said quite clearly, and I quote:
"There's no version of Enginuity that comes with launch control."

He did mention that it had been tested, and I quote:
"We've tested it, however no ETA at this time and it is not planned for the next release."

So for the time being, if you want 2-step rev limit (launch control) you will need to buy the Bee*R Limiter, or get a COBB AP, or an aftermarket ECU that has it.

The Bee*R is what I will be using, and it is fairly cheap.

A company called gizmo also makes a launch control module and it also allows flat foot shifting. According to the website, it cuts ignition like most other units to achieve the result. It goes for $149 on eBay but I think you have to have the tach they sell to use the LC interface.

A company called gizmo also makes a launch control module and it also allows flat foot shifting. According to the website, it cuts ignition like most other units to achieve the result. It goes for $149 on eBay but I think you have to have the tach they sell to use the LC interface.
Cool, cheers for that. I didn't know of any others apart from the Bee*R limiter that were only ignition cut :)

I had a squiz at the Gizzmo website, and it said you need the "Gizzmo Tach Recall" shiftlight to operate the "Gizzmo Launch Interface". Basically the tach/shiftlight has the dials required to actualy set the rev limit you want to enforce ;)

I also had a look for places to purchase and found that Apexi USA sell the Gizzmo range of products (see here (http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_gizzmo.asp)) :)

I run the Gizzmo LC and 2 stage shiftlight on my car... keep in mind this is ignition cut 2-step so if your'e shim over bucket still you could potentially run into problems with cracked shims... I never had any problems on my stage 2 ej205, but that's no guarantee you won't!! Also, someone posted above that cobb was ignition cut... to the best of my knowledge cobb is actually fuel cut (which is safer, although way less fun :banana:)


Hope that helps :)

you can get a used UTEC for the same price as those 2 items and have launch control AND flat-foot shifting. i'm actually thinking about doing it for the launch control myself.

yeah, unless you buy the light and launch control interface used... which is what I did. I'd buy Utec though simply because it offers fuel cut if you decide to run that instead of ignition cut :)

Found a new one almost by accident and it looks great. Cuts both Fuel and spark, is pretty cheap compared to the others and it's less crap to install meaning a more stealth/factory look. I think it allows flat footed shifting as well seeing as how it uses the clutch switch like almost every other type. I may just pick one up.

Link - http://www.importintelligence.com/FMPro?-DB=cart.fp3&-Format=PLaunch.html&-Token=12860330&-RecID=12860330&CustID=PerfectLaunch&-Edit

Found a new one almost by accident and it looks great. Cuts both Fuel and spark, is pretty cheap compared to the others and it's less crap to install meaning a more stealth/factory look. I think it allows flat footed shifting as well seeing as how it uses the clutch switch like almost every other type. I may just pick one up.

Link - http://www.importintelligence.com/FMPro?-DB=cart.fp3&-Format=PLaunch.html&-Token=12860330&-RecID=12860330&CustID=PerfectLaunch&-Edit

That is one really nice 2-step launch control unit

Cuts both Fuel and spark,
I'm sure it will be fine as a a rev limiter - but it will not offer the advantages of an ignition-cut only limiter.

With an ignition-cut only limiter, you have the added bonus of a simple anti-lag system when the excess fuel ignites in the exhaust :)

This is generally what most are seeking in a two-step, so when they are hitting the lower limiter ready to launch, they start to build boost.

It doesn't work like those proper anti-lag systems, but it does a good enough job of assisting to build a few pounds of boost while stationary - a bonus at the track for sure :)

Check out THIS (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHo8Hfn-8mA&feature=related) youtube video, it shows the Cobb AP ignition-cut launch control on a wrx which is building about 6psi while stationary :P

That's fuel cut launch control actually :) and it's on my friends 2005 sti, not a wrx... Both ignition and fuel cut will build boost at idle but ignition cut tend to build a touch more...

Basically the trade off is as follows:



Fuel cut: safe for valvetrain but builds marginally less boost

Ignition cut: builds marginally more boost, shoots sweet fireballs, can damage the valvetrain/crack shims



(I personally have had good luck with my ignition cut system and am very happy with it.. however this is not everyone's experience...)

Maybe COBB will develop (if they haven't started it already) a new software version that would allow one to run whichever type of LC or FFS they choose... Ignition cut, fuel cut, or both. I am a APv1 owner and have been debating over if I should pick up a used APv2 or not. I'm not sure if there are any huge benefits of the APv2 as far as OTS maps go but if COBB continues to develop new features such as LC, FFS, and a type of Anti-Lag, that may push me more towards getting one.

Looks like FFS stands for something completely different on this forum compared to the Australian WRX forum I spend my time on. :)

I'm not sure exactly what approach Ecutek use for LC but I was seeing up to 10 psi boost with the engine under zero load. It was quite a soft limiter with no backfiring so I assume it was both fuel and ignition cut. Worked pretty well.

....then I got fed up with ridiculous retuning charges so I got a new ECU and a Tactrix cable. :)

BTW you guys are spoiled for choice over there. I'm very jealous.

...Ben

lol Ben, agreed. Back here in oz ffs is something you say in frustration ;)

So did you use Enginuity to retune?

lol Ben, agreed. Back here in oz ffs is something you say in frustration ;)

So did you use Enginuity to retune?

I haven't bothered yet. I'm running a VF34 as an interim setup. Once I get all the twin-scroll bits together then I'll start concentrating on getting the tune just right. I'm getting some good help from a guy who helped out with the STis that won Targa Tasmania. ;)

Cheers,
Ben

nice. once you know what you're doing - teach me :P

pm 555motorsports for no lift shifting on the stock ecu, its $50 i believe

.....and then share the secret with us poor sods down under as no-one here has any idea. In the spirit of open-source tuning, of course. :)

I happened to see this thread so i figured i'd answer a few things.

pm 555motorsports for no lift shifting on the stock ecu, its $50 i believe

Actually it's part of an internet tuning or tuning package that can be purchased from me. You have the option of $60 to cover 30 days of internet tuning and support to follow, which, yes does include the flat foot shifting.


.....and then share the secret with us poor sods down under as no-one here has any idea. In the spirit of open-source tuning, of course. :)

There isn't one big secret, there are quite a few parameters that have to be set-up correctly in order to achieve this. :)

So is that only for the "no lift shift" or can you also do launch control via internet tuning?

launch control is not something that is available with open source as of right now, no lift shift is the only addition I can put on your tune. My honest opinion on launch control is that it's not something that is needed until you get into cars with GT35's, GT40's and big turbos of that nature. At that point I feel it can be a benefit.

I've found that most of the time I can launch better myself than a car running a launch control system.

Problem. My best 0-60ft time = 1.889 All day at the track. I just am really bad at launching and needed some artificial help:D

Problem. My best 0-60ft time = 1.889 All day at the track. I just am really bad at launching and needed some artificial help:D

well, as far as open source tuning I don't offer launch control. However I can offer driving (drag racing) schools

1.6x-1.72 : 60' with an '07 WRX on stock RE92s and stock suspension :banana:

Here is the trick to launching / shifting and not using launch control:

First setup your map (if you have DBW) to not cut boost or throttle completely at redline (I use 50% throttle cut for safety) (make sure you have plenty of fueling headroom as well). You have to adjust several paramters in the ETC tables to do this. Next, Make your 80% DC in the low RPMs very high. So now you should be able to mash the throttle at idle and it will rise to 6-9 PSI. This is the trick. At staging let it idle. When the countdown begins, floor the gas, dump it when it builds boost around 5k or so. You will rip off the line, wheel hop, or spin the first time you try it. If you wheel hop, let off, run over. If you spin, modulate the throttle so the tires catch (you can still get a 1.7x spinning). Powershift to 2nd gear is the most important shift. Be preapered for when you get it just right and rip that 1.6x 60 ft because 2nd comes very fast. ;) Powershift all the way down the track, the ECU will cut to 50% throttle at redline and you won't get knock or lose much boost compared to lift shifting.

Gabe

Here is the trick to launching / shifting and not using launch control:

First setup your map (if you have DBW) to not cut boost or throttle completely at redline (I use 50% throttle cut for safety) (make sure you have plenty of fueling headroom as well). You have to adjust several paramters in the ETC tables to do this. Next, Make your 80% DC in the low RPMs very high. So now you should be able to mash the throttle at idle and it will rise to 6-9 PSI. This is the trick. At staging let it idle. When the countdown begins, floor the gas, dump it when it builds boost around 5k or so. You will rip off the line, wheel hop, or spin the first time you try it. If you wheel hop, let off, run over. If you spin, modulate the throttle so the tires catch (you can still get a 1.7x spinning). Powershift to 2nd gear is the most important shift. Be preapered for when you get it just right and rip that 1.6x 60 ft because 2nd comes very fast. ;) Powershift all the way down the track, the ECU will cut to 50% throttle at redline and you won't get knock or lose much boost compared to lift shifting.

Gabe

Worth saving.

:)

Which table are you changing? The target throttle plate position or the requested torque(accelerator pedal). I would take it your just changing the target throttle position to 50 in the rpm ranges where you want ffs. What do you do about the launch control? How are you changing the tables there in order to keep it at the certain RPM?


Here is the trick to launching / shifting and not using launch control:

First setup your map (if you have DBW) to not cut boost or throttle completely at redline (I use 50% throttle cut for safety) (make sure you have plenty of fueling headroom as well). You have to adjust several paramters in the ETC tables to do this. Next, Make your 80% DC in the low RPMs very high. So now you should be able to mash the throttle at idle and it will rise to 6-9 PSI. This is the trick. At staging let it idle. When the countdown begins, floor the gas, dump it when it builds boost around 5k or so. You will rip off the line, wheel hop, or spin the first time you try it. If you wheel hop, let off, run over. If you spin, modulate the throttle so the tires catch (you can still get a 1.7x spinning). Powershift to 2nd gear is the most important shift. Be preapered for when you get it just right and rip that 1.6x 60 ft because 2nd comes very fast. ;) Powershift all the way down the track, the ECU will cut to 50% throttle at redline and you won't get knock or lose much boost compared to lift shifting.

Gabe

Which table are you changing? The target throttle plate position or the requested torque(accelerator pedal). I would take it your just changing the target throttle position to 50 in the rpm ranges where you want ffs. What do you do about the launch control? How are you changing the tables there in order to keep it at the certain RPM?

the way he is talking about launching is not a form of launch control it is merely the way he launches the car, no special settings in the ECU for launch control. Launch control in this case is YOUR FOOT :) its a little more involved than just nailing the gas and dumping the clutch, as there are a few tricks to doing it. There are many different methods.

Here you can see the one I use....very minimal wheel spin as you take off

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/mxturboracer86/th_12.jpg (http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/mxturboracer86/?action=view&current=12.flv)

Which table are you changing? The target throttle plate position or the requested torque(accelerator pedal). I would take it your just changing the target throttle position to 50 in the rpm ranges where you want ffs. What do you do about the launch control? How are you changing the tables there in order to keep it at the certain RPM?

Just go look at my free stage 1 07 STI map on osecuroms.org.

Gabe

the way he is talking about launching is not a form of launch control it is merely the way he launches the car, no special settings in the ECU for launch control. Launch control in this case is YOUR FOOT :) its a little more involved than just nailing the gas and dumping the clutch, as there are a few tricks to doing it. There are many different methods.

Here you can see the one I use....very minimal wheel spin as you take off

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/mxturboracer86/th_12.jpg (http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/mxturboracer86/?action=view&current=12.flv)

Launch control just allows you to concentrate on modulating the throttle. They key is building boost when stationary. You can build boost w/o LC is my point. ;)

As far as FFS goes, you don't need it if you can control the ETC settings (DBW ECUs). You can set it up so it powershifts w/o knock.

Gabe

06 WRX (On my free Stage 1 map when in dev):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyLGAeAMqe0

07 STI (only ran it once so far, this was on one of my dev Stage 1 maps)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4mIk6koXHo