I thought I would start a thread just on the progress (or lack there of :huh:) of my 2 year build...

Just to bring everyone up to speed, I will go over the basics...

2005 STI

Bottom end:

Custom JE 2618 T6 pistons, rings ,and wrist pins...
Eagle rods...
Lightened and reworked factory crankshaft...
Custom bearings...
And various other mods

Top end:

Ported, polished, and raised chamber; factory castings, all port work done by myself...
Brian Crower springs and titanium retainers...
Brian Crower Valves...
Custom Valve Guides...
Cosworth 284/278 cam set...
Custom lighweight buckets...

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/seatscut.jpg

There is a thread on my heads, but I will move the important parts from it over to this one.... Porting Question Thread... (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=973620)

Induction setup:

Garrett GT4094R .95ar...
Ultimate Racing Twin Scroll header, uppipe setup, 38mm wastegates, externally vented... On order at this time, should have it within a week or so...
2 injectors per runner, unsure how big final ones will be, read on...
Factory intake for now...

Other Stuff:

Hydra EMS MAP based tune...
Apexi Boost controller...
APS tumbler deletes, port matched to heads and intake manifold...
APS 725 intercooler...
APS 3.5" exhaust...
Snow Performance meth injection...
Exedy Twin Disk, which I pray can hold this much power....

And tons of other supporting mods required for this power level....

All of this is just about ready to be assembled and put into the car...

Then I will break it in at 7 psi of boost...

I plan on setting this up as a dual fuel setup...

Primary (sequential) injectors will use factory tank and 93 octane, meth/water injection, so I can drive it on the street with easily available gas...

Secondary fuel system will be for E85 and be batch fired by the hydra...
There are only about 4 places to by E85 within 100 miles of here...
I have considered Methanol as well :D

Power goals are 500 whp with just the primary (93 octane) fuel source, and as much as I can get out of it with the E85 system on top of it...

I think I can get 700 whp without to much trouble and still be safely tuned...

I will post some more pictures of all of this crazyness later...

I cant wait to get this thing running... :devil:

I thought I would start a thread just on the progress (or lack there of :huh:) of my 2 year build...

Just to bring everyone up to speed, I will go over the basics...

2005 STI

Bottom end:

Custom JE 2618 T6 pistons, rings ,and wrist pins...
Eagle rods...
Lightened and reworked factory crankshaft...
Custom bearings...
And various other mods

Top end:

Ported, polished, and raised chamber; factory castings, all port work done by myself...
Brian Crower springs and titanium retainers...
Brian Crower Valves...
Custom Valve Guides...
Cosworth 284/278 cam set...
Custom lighweight buckets...

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/seatscut.jpg

There is a thread on my heads, but I will move the important parts from it over to this one.... Porting Question Thread... (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=973620)

Induction setup:

Garrett GT4094R .95ar...
Ultimate Racing Twin Scroll header, uppipe setup, 38mm wastegates, externally vented... On order at this time, should have it within a week or so...
2 injectors per runner, unsure how big final ones will be, read on...
Factory intake for now...

Other Stuff:

Hydra EMS MAP based tune...
Apexi Boost controller...
APS tumbler deletes, port matched to heads and intake manifold...
APS 725 intercooler...
APS 3.5" exhaust...
Snow Performance meth injection...
Exedy Twin Disk, which I pray can hold this much power....

And tons of other supporting mods required for this power level....

All of this is just about ready to be assembled and put into the car...

Then I will break it in at 7 psi of boost...

I plan on setting this up as a dual fuel setup...

Primary (sequential) injectors will use factory tank and 93 octane, meth/water injection, so I can drive it on the street with easily available gas...

Secondary fuel system will be for E85 and be batch fired by the hydra...
There are only about 4 places to by E85 within 100 miles of here...
I have considered Methanol as well :D

Power goals are 500 whp with just the primary (93 octane) fuel source, and as much as I can get out of it with the E85 system on top of it...

I think I can get 700 whp without to much trouble and still be safely tuned...

I will post some more pictures of all of this crazyness later...

I cant wait to get this thing running... :devil:

This sounds like a great build. Interesting to see. Tim Bailey is doing a build on his car that is very similar... 4094, dual injectors, pump and E85. I am most curious to see how the E85 turns out. Keep us updated.

Jeff

finally you have started a thread!!
wow, now I see 4 of us are doing ethanol builds...should be interesting.

I guess that means that 4 of us are just taking the next logical step with these setups...

If you look at some of the other forums on the net, using multiple fuel systems is not a new idea...

Programming the Hydra for this setup will be a learning experience for me...

I'll just have to take my time in the transition area to get it where it is seamless...

Speaking of the Hydra, they are available tomorrow... :D

speaking of the hydra, mine showed up yesterday :D

how are you planning to run your dual fuel system? as I know of several ways to do it/its been done.

Here is my idea for a dual fuel system, and it is similiar to other setups...

I am going to use the stock tank and primary injection system for the 93 octane setup, along with meth/water injection...

The secondary fuel system will be entirely seperate from the primary...
It will have its own fuel cell, pump, regulator, and injectors...

If the secondary system can be scaled for different size injectors, it will make programming a lot easier...

I plan on using 800 or 1000cc on the primary (93) side, and 1600cc on the secondary (E85) side... The secondary (E85) side will probably run higher pressure than the 93 side....

The only downfall I see to this, is determining the proper mixture during the transistion period... I know what is should be in theory, but that might not be right in application...

I will probably set the system up with 2 maps, one just for 93, and a second map that phases in the E85 long before the 93 octane injectors have maxed out... This transition will be based on octane demand versus engine load...

I am sure it will take some experimenting to find these spots in the maps, and I am not sure of the programming limitations that the Hydra will present for setting up such complex maps...

But I am up for the challange...

I am sure that using the 2 fuels together in a octane on demand setup will make for a very interesting power curve...

yeah, using the straight 93 downlow will help with spool up vs. the e85 and then of course as you gradually go to complete E85, assuming 1600cc is enough (doubt it), you'll have all the perks of increased latent heat of vaporization and 105 octane.
Should be interesting.

I am not sure if 1600cc will be enough either, at 43psi...

At 55 psi base pressure, they are 1800cc...
At 70 psi base, they are over 2000cc...

The pump I am considereing can push 120 psi at the flow level I need...

These numbers are based off of actual flow data from Bosch part number 0280150846 1600cc injectors...
They injectors don't like operate much over 100 psi working pressure, so 70 will leave room for 30 psi of boost...

30 psi of boost out of a 4094r is a lot of air, requiring a lot of fuel...

Hopefully ~8000cc at 100%dc will be enough.... :eek:

wow what a great build....the ur twin scroll is a great kit!!

wow what a great build....the ur twin scroll is a great kit!!

We will have to compare our cars, I live in Lebanon...

I keep harping on it.. but what about sleeves as a minimum to keep the bores from warping??/

What kind of guides did you end up going with?

What kind of guides did you end up going with?

A friend of mine that works at a local machine shop found me bronze guide blanks that could be machined down to use in the Subaru heads...

I am not sure what they were actually intended for, I'll have to ask him next time I see him....

And to answer tino's question...

This block still has the factory sleeves in it...
I am working on redoing another block to machine for wet sleeves for the backup bottom end...

That bottom end will have a bigger bore, a smaller stroke, and longer rods as compared to a normal 2.5...

I am still working with a few companies to get the parts I need for that bottom end made...

david, shoot me a pm on those wanted bottom end parts ;)

Is the answer to the 'why' question 'because'?

I don't really understand going through the difficulty of fabricating/designing and entirely seperate fuel system to run a 93/ethanol mix. The octane level of that is lower than running racegas. Why not just run 1600cc primary injectors and then c16 or something along those lines?

I know that some people like to come up with different types of setups, but as someone who is fabbing up a 42r build as we speak it's hard enough without making an elaborate, but unnecessary, auxillary fuel system. Just because the Hydra can control up to 8 injectors doesn't mean it needs to. My $.02.

I look at it this way...

E85 is less than 3 bucks a gallon
vp is 8+

I have to make a decent fuel system either way, and the setup could be used/tuned for any secondary fuel...

I have set up many cars with on demand octane and that is why I am choosing to do it this way...

Setting it up and tuning it this way gives the best of both worlds...

You can cruise around on 93 octane, and just press the gas down for high octane power...
No mixing fuels, no worry about not being able to get gas when you need it...

A friend of mine that works at a local machine shop found me bronze guide blanks that could be machined down to use in the Subaru heads...

I am not sure what they were actually intended for, I'll have to ask him next time I see him....

And to answer tino's question...

This block still has the factory sleeves in it...
I am working on redoing another block to machine for wet sleeves for the backup bottom end...

That bottom end will have a bigger bore, a smaller stroke, and longer rods as compared to a normal 2.5...

I am still working with a few companies to get the parts I need for that bottom end made...



Fair enuff, as i just dont think the factory bores are up to the task in the longer term.. And may destroy a very built engine

Fair enuff, as i just dont think the factory bores are up to the task in the longer term.. And may destroy a very built engine

That is very true...
The factory liners will eventually crack at the power level that I am looking for, thats a given...
On the oppisite side of that is the cylinder wall overheating problems that can happen with dry sleeved engines...

I am currently designing wet sleeves that have about 3 times the surface area that the factory block has to the coolant...
What I mean by that, is a sleeve that has raised (think wavy) edges protruding into the cooling system to increase the area that is actually in direct contact with coolant...
The biggest problems I am running into is keeping them sealed, and keeping them located...
I know, and have seen, how other companies put wet sleeves into the blocks, but those do not have true floating sleeves...
My sleeves will be floating, similar to what is in a caddy aluminum block V8...
You might ask why I would design floating ones over pressed....

Have you ever seen floating sleeves that blew head gaskets???
Probably not would be my guess...
Once I figure out how to machine the top of the factory block so the sleeve can not move during heat cycling, I'll be set...
But that is not as easy as it sounds...

There is another huge plus to having a true floating sleeve...
You don't need that wristpin hole (which causes the sleeve to warp when expanding) in the sleeves.....

When assembling the engine, the pistons can be installed into the sleeve with just enough sticking out that you can put the pin in, then seat the sleeve the rest of the way into the block, and put the head on...

I keep telling a friend of mine that I am just going to break down and buy some billet, then machine my own block that can use all of the ideas I have come up with since I started this build...

He keeps telling me that there wouldn't be much of a market for high performance Scooby blocks...

I'm not so sure about that.........

Here are a few pictures of the twin scroll stuff...
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1330.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1331.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1332.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1333.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1334.jpg

4094r .95ar


http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1335.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1336.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1337.jpg

I need a kleenex...

can't quite make out the manifold's manufacturer david...who made it?

edit: yup see the ultimate now.

Looks like ultimate racing.

I read in a magazine that Darton has new MID sleeves for the EJ25 and new VQ 350Z engines. Can't find that info anywhere else though. Anyone else hear of this rumor?

Looks like ultimate racing.

I read in a magazine that Darton has new MIG sleeves for the EJ25 and new VQ 350Z engines. Can't find that info anywhere else though. Anyone else hear of this rumor?

I think you mean MID sleeves... :D

Haha whoops, they are too close together on the keyboard.

I dont think they are out yet because I was waiting for the 1st set,but every time we (phillips racing engines in grove city,oh and me(john schroeck) ) checked they said they ran into a design problem.hopefully they will be out soon.

I dont think they are out yet because I was waiting for the 1st set,but every time we (phillips racing engines in grove city,oh and me(john schroeck) ) checked they said they ran into a design problem.hopefully they will be out soon.

you keep getting the same story I get than too...how badly I want a set!!

Here is a picture of my bottom end...

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/bottom.jpg

More pics to come...

Assembly of the rest of the engine should start very soon...

I still need a few other things before I fire it up....

The biggest being EM... Hydras don't seem to be available right now... :confused:
I want to run a map based EM, I am considering other options on EM... Any suggestions???

I think I am going to put a second pump in the tank as well...

Does anyone make 1000 or bigger cc side feed injectors???

I've heard great things about the autronic sm4. Problem is it's about twice the amount of a hydra.

AEM...?...made by Gems just like the Autronic, although I've heard the autronic interface is much more user friendly.

I like my Autronic which is the PnP Subaru version. I've also tuned the SM4 version in another STi with great results. Once you get to know the quick keys in the Autronic interface tuning is easy. Dynamic autotune and log based autotune for fueling works very well.

Downside, no drive by wire & knock correction.

I have a brand new hyra with o2 sensor I am not going to use, interested?
contact Andy forrest for 1100cc side feeds :)

I wrapped my header and my up-pipe today...

Nothing better than playing with fiberglass, and heat paint.........

Here is the header....

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/wrap1.jpg

And the up-pipe

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/wrap2.jpg

I used exactly 100 feet of 2" wide heat tape... The copper stuff...

And 3 cans of heat paint to seal it up....

I need to put the bottom end on a stand and put the heads, oil pump, etc on it...

Then pull my other motor out and transfer the rest of it over to it...

I am going to have to make some new intercooler pipes for my APS core...

More fun..........

More to follow....... :D

You didn't itch afterwards did you;-)

AEM...?...made by Gems just like the Autronic,

WTF.... were did you get that from :confused::huh: Gems DO NOT MAKE AUTRONIC.

WTF.... were did you get that from :confused::huh: Gems DO NOT MAKE AUTRONIC.

If I recall I got that from autronic, at least for there older units (over two years ago though when I was shopping autronic for FSAE)...

I could be wrong or it may just be dated info. Regardless both are highly regarded units. I've never had an issue with any car that I've been involved with on AEM.

100 ft of wrap!!! just a bit itchy?

100 ft of wrap!!! just a bit itchy?

That would be an understatement...

I can hardly wait to do the down-pipe and the dump tubes... :huh:

Looks like I will need about 100 more feet of wrap....

I am still debating EM, not sure which way to go now....

Have you thought about Link's new G3 system? That's what Clark recommended that I use for my 42r car.

I am getting a Hydra... Phil says that they will be ready to ship out next week...

If everything falls into place I should have it running in 2 weeks....

I can hardly wait... I have only been working on it for about 2 years now...:huh:

Then I get to break it in, and due a little tuning to it....

I will probably put about a 1000 miles on it then put it on a dyno and see what it will do on pump gas...:D

^^^awesome!!!

I will probably put about a 1000 miles on it then put it on a dyno and see what it will do on pump gas...:D

1000 miles in one day I hope :D
It'll be nice seeing a FAST car at a PA track!

looking good mate.. cant wait to see how urs compares to mine with the 1.06 rear housing, and smaller headers and exhaust (even though ill prolly change the dump pipe to 3.5 mating up to my 3 " exhaust..

What have u decided with the manifold? Are u sticking with stock??

looking good mate.. cant wait to see how urs compares to mine with the 1.06 rear housing, and smaller headers and exhaust (even though ill prolly change the dump pipe to 3.5 mating up to my 3 " exhaust..

What have u decided with the manifold? Are u sticking with stock??

I am going to use the stock to for now...

After I get a decent tune worked out, I will examine the torque curve, then experiment by modifying the factory intake manifold...

I have some ideas for an intake that I have never seen anyone try on our boxers that will help with air distribution...

I pulled the old engine out this morning, and clean up the mess it made... (Oil everywhere) :huh:

I inspected my clutch and it looks fine... (Exedy twin disk)

I will put the long block together next week, then transfer all of the stuff from the old engine to the new one...

After I put the new engine in, I need to fab up some intercooler pipes, an air intake setup, IAT in the charge tube, move some brake lines, run 4 larger fuel lines, and do a few other minor things to tidy the engine bay up....

I am also going to put another pump (daul) into tank, just to be sure....
Does anyone know how many amps a walbro draws???
I was considering setting it up where the factory controller runs both of them by using power transistors between the factory controller and the pumps...
That way it wont burn up the controller, and simplifies the installation...

Another question... What fuel pressure regulator can flow/bypass what 2 pumps put out???

At the rate I am going, I should have everything else done, then be waiting on the Hydra... :D

I'm getting there.... :banana: Still shooting for 2~ weeks untill it runs again... :)

As I am breaking it in I will start to install of the rest of secondary fuel system, wiring for it, and a few other additions...

The cam gear bolts on the exhaust cams are a real pain in the .... to get off.....

I had to drill them out... :huh:
I ordered 2 new ones today... They will be here Friday....

I have the new heads on the new longblock, still swapping parts over... more to follow.......

I promise, i'll post some pics of my progress.... :D

^^^^^heard that.

I hope I don't have problems removing mine when the time comes :rolleyes:

Do yourself a favor... Just order 2 new exhaust gear bolts and drill the old ones out...

Another question... What fuel pressure regulator can flow/bypass what 2 pumps put out???

You might want to look at this one, it should handle just about anything you are likely to flow through it.

Aeromotive P/N 13101 adjustable fuel pressure regulator

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?cat=2&catsub=1&prod=11

Larry

Do yourself a favor... Just order 2 new exhaust gear bolts and drill the old ones out...

or you can grind off the flange as that is what causes the pressure....both methods work well.

turbosmart, sx performance and aeromotive have regulators that can do the job.

100 ft of wrap!!! just a bit itchy?

Ummm, not if you soak it in water first. Cuts down on EXTREMELY HARMFUL fiberglass dust in the air and it keeps you just about 100% itch free. Also makes it super easy to work with and allows alittle bit of stretch so you can get it nice and tight.

Ummm, not if you soak it in water first. Cuts down on EXTREMELY HARMFUL fiberglass dust in the air and it keeps you just about 100% itch free. Also makes it super easy to work with and allows alittle bit of stretch so you can get it nice and tight.

Soaking the copper based wrap in water is counter productive...
You will loose most of the copper if you do that way...

You will be better off running a dedicated power source to the tank with a 70amp relay and only use the factory wire to energize the relay and bypass the controller.The aeromotive fpr a1000 will work just fine.

Homemade wrx just to let you know darton has supposedly scrapped the ej MID sleeve project-sorry for both of us.

Homemade wrx just to let you know darton has supposedly scrapped the ej MID sleeve project-sorry for both of us.

I know they had been working on it and scrapped it...I thought you were bringing new hope again...oh well :(

so, how's the build coming along?

I am still waiting for the exhaust cam bolts to come in....
Then I am going to degree it to see if I need to adjust the cams...

why not change to topfeed inj? Bigger selection and bigger period.

why not change to topfeed inj? Bigger selection and bigger period.

I probably will after I break it in...
I need to know a little more about the Hydra before I make my final decision...

I am still waiting on the Hydra and Phil has not returned my emails on when it will be shipped out...

He might still be working on the 08 Sti...

Phil emailed me today...

The Hydra is in...:D

The wideband sensor isn't....:huh:

Hopefully I will get all of it very soon...
Phil told me that the sensors should be there (to him) Wednesday at the latest...

I am still waiting on the cam bolts, I must have just missed the cutoff time on the order... They should be in later this week...

If all goes well, I should have the engine back in the car by early next week... :banana:

I don't have much to do before I put the motor back in...
Just waiting on parts..................................:furious: :confused:
Then I get to fab up the intercooler plumbing and air intake.........

Set up the Hydra, then fire it up... http://www.icone-gif.com/gif/emoticones/content/emoticones-content-072.gif

^^^^ nice mate..

Cant wait to see ur gains with the 90 over the 88...

Here it is, waiting on parts............

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1014.jpg

still with AC!!
I'm getting excited for you :banana:

ohh thats looking good on the stand...im excited for ya, i can't wait to get mine back and hit up the track and bust some evo's with ya!!!!

still with AC!!
I'm getting excited for you :banana:

There is no reason to get rid of it.... :D

lookin' good! it's about time we got a "build" thread from you! :)

ken

I got my bolts today and put the belt on...
The cams are ground very close, no need to degree them in yet...

After mocking up my Turbo on the up-pipe, I have decieded to do a rotated intake setup...
That will allow for a few benefits in my setup...



I can retain some of my intercooler pipes going to the intercooler...
The exit to the compressor wont be right up against the up-pipe...
It will leave me more room for the oil seperator system I want to make...


I need to do a little playing around to see what pipes I will have to fab up, and what mods need done to the alternator, and the adjustment bracket to make enough room...

I read some of the threads on rotating the intake, and it looks fairly strait forward...

^^^

David i had done it with my old setup using the standard sti manifold.. its works but is a very very tight squeeze and u can only fit 2.5inch piping otherwise it contacts with the bonnent..

I really want to see how your build turns out! I like your attention to detail the heads look incredible.

tino

I am going to try and get the 3 inch to work... I am not sure if it can be done or not...
Only time will tell...
If it cant be done with 3, it wont get rotated...

sperry7

Thanks, the heads only took me about 2 years to do... :huh:
I did a lot of experimenting with them until I was satisfied with the final port shapes...
They are probably not the highest flowing heads around, but the flow very thru out the lift range...
Lots of little steps to get where they are now...

Just as a recap...

Here are some pictures of my heads...

Posted 3/31/06 :huh:

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/chamber1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/chamber2.jpg

Posted 4/9/06

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/intrunn.jpg

Posted 4/13/06

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/all4.jpg

Posted 6/28/06

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/quartport.jpg

Posted 7/12/2006

http://geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/portt.jpg

Posted 7/15/06

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/3.jpg

Posted 8/05/06 I thought I was about done here, then found a problem with them...

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/final.jpg

Posted 9/16/06

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/images/intfinal.jpg

Posted 3/6-8/07

http://www.shvrdavid.com/intff.jpg
http://www.shvrdavid.com/e1.jpg
http://www.shvrdavid.com/e2.jpg
http://www.shvrdavid.com/e3.jpg

Posted 10/12/07

http://shvrdavid.com/13.jpg
http://shvrdavid.com/10.jpg

Posted 2/05/08

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/seatscut.jpg

And there are a ton of them that I did not bother to post....... :huh:

^^^how much you charging to port my heads! :lol:

^^^how much you charging to port my heads! :lol:

Dunno yet... Lets see how they do first... I had these mapped... :D

Dunno yet... Lets see how they do first... I had these mapped... :D

smart man...curious, what machine did you ues to digitize them?

smart man...curious, what machine did you ues to digitize them?

Microscribe (http://www.immersion.com)

I can't get the direct link to the digitizer I have from here (work blocks most sites)...

I have everything mocked up for the turbo, wastegates, etc...

Here are 2 pictures of it...

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1106.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1107.jpg

I am still waiting on the Hydra......

What kind of coating is that on the exhaust housing?

Is that copper spray on everything or just a bronze/copper ceramic coating?

It is high temp copper paint (supposedly withstands 1400 degree on metal, 2000 on coating on headers), it will get a blanket over it...

I painted it so it doesn't rust under the blanket...:)

What brand? Rattle can like VHT stuff?

Well, it is a least sitting in the car now.... :D

Now the fun part of getting everything where I want it....

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/1704.jpg

I don't remember what type of paint it is, I will have to try and remember....

I fired it up today to break in the cams... :banana:

I let it run for about an hour at 2000 rpm...

I am still waiting on the Hydra....

I have it running in limp mode right now with the oe computer...

I don't have the MAF,IAT,either o2 on it and I had to tweak the map alittle to get it to idle...

It idles well at 800rpm.... (lopes a little bit as well

I have to make some new pipes for my intercooler, finish a few odds and ends, then wait till My Hydra shows up.... :huh:

OMG that turbo looks gigantic with it mounted under the hood.

Awesome job :)

Very Noice -Said in my best British accent

then wait till My Hydra shows up.... :huh:

I think I'll be having the same dilemma with my build. Having an issue getting my cams too.
You're making great progress though!!

May I suggest a nice break-in drive to Pittsburgh once it's up and running? ;)

Looking great!

A little FYI for anyone that gets the Ultimate Racing 40r setup...

The AC lines will need modified where they go into the evaporator...
The low side line is right up against the downpipe...
The way they are run, you will have to shorten them about the same length...
I am going to have to take them off, and shorten the leg where it goes into the evaporator by about an 3/4" on the high and low pressure lines...
I am just going to cut the lines and tig weld them back together...

If you have APS 3.5" exhaust, you can cut your original down pipe, then cut the 3.5" flange off the 3.5 to 3 reducer that comes with the UR downpipe...
Weld it up, and your done... :D

I also moved the exhaust back about 1/2 an inch, the hangers are pointed back at about a 30 degree angle, that should help the paint on the rear bumper out...

The Wastegate furthest away from the engine has to be taken apart and rotated, so you can put the fitting into it, it is pointing right at the turbo flange right out of the box...
I think they should put a little more loctite on the screws holding the valve in... :huh: They were really tight........
Put that wastegate on first, then the down pipe, then the other wastegate...
If you do it in that order, you can get to the bolts easily...
(I figured all of that out when I mocked it up, and it was a breeze to install...

When I installed the engine, the header, up-pipe and turbo were all on, and plumbed...

I had to unbolt the brake lines from the passengers strut tower, unclip the lines going to the ABS from the first set of clips, and lift it up onto the top of the strut tower... You can get it back into all but the same spot after the engine is in...

Oh, and if you have AVCS, you will have to trim the inboard mounting tab for the up-pipe because of the oil passage in the head...

Other than that, the Ultimate Racing setup went on without any problems...

There welds and fabrication skills are top notch...
The header and the up-pipe fit very well, and leave plenty of clearance around everything....

Very nice build you have going, can't wait to see your results. Any reasons why you chose to go with a Ultimate Racing Twinscroll Kit Vs. Full-Race Twinscroll Kit? Both companies make good products, was curious to why you chose one over the other.

I have never seen Full-Races work, I have seen a lot of Ultimate Racings work, thats why I went with there twin scroll setup...

Fullrace seems to be a rumor I haven't seen one full race setup actually perform just lots of talk from them, I would love to see otherwise. Has anyone actually received their product?
UR have installed, ran and results, delivery within 14 days quality good and product design good.
Post those full race dyno plots and lets do the UR/full race comparison. I think a lot of people want to see this!!!

I have their product, and the quality is good. However I am in a dispute with my insurance company, and have no car to put the kit on.

I guess that I have about 6 hours of run time on the motor now...
I haven't driven it much, just putsing it around mostly, the maps in my factory computer are no where near close under load in limp mode...
It idles rich, then starts to lean out about 5 grand, but not bad enough that it will fry it...
I am not running any boost at all yet, the intercooler isn't even plumbed yet...

Still no word form Phil on my delivery of my Hydra and Wideband setup for it...:huh:

Oh well, I still have a lot more to get done to it in the mean time...

I now have a coolant leak (drip) at the turbo coolant outlet fitting, I guess I need to use a little more sealant on the threads...
I thought I used enough, but apparently I didn't...:huh:

I need to run vacuum lines for the boost controller, and reset the controller not to have any maps programmed into it...

Tomorrow I am also going to do some measuring for the new intercooler pipes I need to make...
I am going to run 2.5" to the core, then 3" to the throttle body...
3" wont work with a reversed intake and ac, the intake will just have to stay the original direction... Ac is a must have... :D

I also need to measure how much fuel line I am going to need, and figure out what I need to due to the trunk so all of this will fit in there...

I'll take my digital camera with me and take a few more pics of how things are moving along...
Maybe even make a few movie clips as well....

I am sure that I will find a few other things that need done to it as well...
That seems to be the way things like this go...:p

More to follow....

My Hydra and the wideband for it showed up today...:banana:

need moAr pics of the engine bay!

I think I'll be having the same dilemma with my build. Having an issue getting my cams too.
You're making great progress though!!

I was surprised to see your block still sitting on the floor today, hopefully it all comes together here shortly and that block gets a real home!

shvrdavid, this thread was very well done and the build looks incredible! I'm looking forward to seeing that big turbo breath!

...shvrdavid, this thread was very well done and the build looks incredible! I'm looking forward to seeing that big turbo breath!

I am looking forward to it as well... :p

I wired up my Hydra and the wideband for it today, I still need to go thru it and set it up, then make sure everything is set right in the map...

I asked Phil for a 800cc map, when I downloaded the map it was titled 1000cc...
I need to check that as well...

...need more pics of the engine bay!

I took my camera today, but spent most of the time I worked on the car installing the Hydra...

I'll take some and post them up sooner than later...

I know, still no pictures.....

I have been slowly tuning in the drive ability part of the base map...
I still need to add a little more to cold start... I hate that part of the tune, it takes a while to get it right....

I got it to Idle at 700 rpm (yes it lopes), and it drives decent up to about 4000rpm now...

It goes way lean after that, and 4000-5000 will be my next area to tune...
I guess that says something for my port work....:p

I am still waiting on the rest of the stuff to finish the intercooler plumbing, should be here this week...

Then I will road tune it up to 7psi, then fix the driveability part of that area as well....

I can say this much, there is no hiding the fact that it is turbocharged, even without it hooked to the intercooler..

The compressor is very loud....:D

I'll get some pics and vid clips up this week....

I have my non boost part of the map about done now...
I still have a little light load flutter in a few spots, but I am not sure if I will ever hit those cells once the intercooler is hooked up...
But at least those cells will be tuned to the proper load mixture....

I hope my intercooler stuff shows up soon....

For all the complaining I have heard about the Hydra, I can relate to one of them...

The interface takes a while to get used to...
Interface aside, it is a very well planned out system...
All in all, I would have to say that it is actually a better system than some of the other ones I have tuned in the past...

As far as actually tuning it, it is actually nice to have such large maps...
I have read more than a few posts about the resolution the hydra has, and I would rather have maps that are this size than ones that are to small....

More to follow...............

^^^^very exciting....now pics and vids or ban!!!

^^^^very exciting....now pics and vids or ban!!!

:devil:

Here are some teaser pictures...

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/turbo1.jpg

You can see here where the low side AC line hits the down pipe...
That is still on the list of things to do to it...

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/turbo2.jpg

The filter will get moved away from the turbo when the rest of my stuff gets here for the inter cooler plumbing....

Here is a short teaser video... (http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/scooby.html)

I turned the idle up to about 950 to smooth it out....

^^^^ car porn!

What kind of numbers are you expecting from this setup?

What kind of numbers are you expecting from this setup?

A lot....:D

David,

u should have relocated ur coolant resivoir as it would have given u a bit more room to room around..

The dumpipe is very close to that condensor tubing...

But looking good...

David,

u should have relocated ur coolant resivoir as it would have given u a bit more room to room around..

The dumpipe is very close to that condensor tubing...

But looking good...

I may move the coolant tank, but I have held off until I finish the intercooler pipes and the air inlet...
After I get those done, I will look at it again to see if it would be better off on the strut tower...

Yes, the ac line is actually touching the downpipe...
That is somewhere on the list of things to fix, modify....:huh:
Nothing that cant be fixed with the tig welder....:D

omg, you definately have a killer build there man. Can't wait to see the end results. :)

I want to see a pic of your header ;)

I want to see a pic of your header ;)

Ok, here you go....

The header wrap is about backed on now, it doesn't smell anymore when it gets hot....

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/947.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/948.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/950.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/954.JPG

You can see that the one up-pipe mounting tab has to be cut iff at an angle to clear the oil passage in an STI head here....

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/956.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/957.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/958.JPG

I am trying to figure a few details out today...
I am going to make an oil separator that mounts right to the block where the breather/pcv is from the factory...

Did you exhaust get about 100000 times louder like mine did after I did my p&p work + cossi cams? Unbearably loud, but sounds so good! So loud that I switched back to my stocker, lost 3psi and feel like my gt35r 1.06 is a gt40r spooling at like 6k lol.

The header pic is still screaming ITCHY at me lol.

Yeah, it is a lot louder under slight load, but quieter at cruise...
I am sure that the equal length header is why it is quieter at cruise...
I would imagine that it will be worlds louder when I put boost to it...
But then again, 3.5" exhaust isn't known for being quiet.... :D

I have already out about 250 miles on the engine, and I can hardly wait to finish my intercooler plumbing so I can tune in the low boost area of the maps...

Then I should know how much louder it is at low boost...
My wastegates have .7 bar springs in them, I am sure that will be very loud when they open... :eek:

Once the intercooler is hooked up, I am going to have to take some time and do a lot of road tuning to it...

Does anyone have an excel spreadsheet that is already set up to edit the Hydra maps in???
That would help me out a lot, I hate setting up spreadsheets...

And does anyone have a pin out diagram of the Hydra???
I have read most of the manual that is on the CD, and I have yet to come across one...

I think I have figured out how to make an oil seperator system that will return most, if not all, of the oil to the crankcase that finds it way into the breather system...
I will probably be fabbing that up in the next week or 2....
Along with the never ending list of other things that need fabbed...:huh:

I'm getting there.... :banana:

I spent a few hours tweaking my AFR map today...
The base AFR map Phil has, is a little lean in a few load columns on my setup..

I have it learned up to 0 vacuum, all the way up to 6000 rpm...
I guessed it from 6000 rpm up based on the curve of the map...
It is a little to early in the breakin for much over that...
The only valley in the map is right around the idle cells, the auto tune in the Hydra works very well...
Just keep in mind that you have to check what the AFR map is aiming for in the cells you are having problems with...
Chances are that the Hydra has auto learned that cell, but the AFR map needs tweaked to get you closer to what it needs to be on your setup...

On another note, you can actually see the points of order of the intake when you are autotuning it without boost...
I actually hit a few boost cells in the tuning process...
I am running a fabed up airfilter intake setup that is on the throttle body, and apparently I got a little ram effect out of it...

It runs really good right now once it is warmed up, and I am getting closer on the cold startup part of the maps...
I am actually suprised how well it runs without any boost...

I am up to about 350 miles on it now...
The oil is still very clean, you have to look close to see where the level is on the stick...
Maybe it is just my old eyes....:huh:

More to follow..............................
It is time for some boost now......:D

All of the stuff to hook up my intercooler is supposed to be here tomorrow...

Looks like I will be boosting this week...:banana:

Shvrdavid on wittmer 25's sti I made a mount for the reservoir that puts it over the tranny pretty close to the firewall and under a truss for the towers. It seems to be out of the way there. It's a little tight to get the cap off. We used the provent to do the pcv and breather setup with a drain to the pan. I don't think any thing has drained to the pan and when we check it it has moisture in the top but none in the bottom. It has a seal to seperate the filter from the bottom. I think it cannot be improved on. The provent is pretty big so I mounted it on the truss bar on the drivers side but closer to the center. It's bearly below the hood. It's really easy to take apart and check. We removed the inner scoop metal part. I also redid his fmic and intake tubes to clean it up, we straightened some of the bends out. Twisted turbos on subies are hard to make look good.
Charliew

^ not to take this thread off topic, but watch out for the seals on the provent, on mine the seals swelled up from the oil and fuel vapors, and made it a big leaky mess.

Awesome setup man, goodluck and let us know what she throws down on the dyno!

I drove my car for the first time with boost....:banana:

I am getting 10 psi by 4000rpm and still tuning it in...:p

My wastegate springs open about 10~11 psi....

I will have to work on the map a little more, then turn up the boost.....

non avcs right?

So happy for you. What's next for it?

non avcs right?

AVCS is on, but it isn't tuned agressive, and I am not running a rich ramp up yet to aid in spool...

I am focusing on drivability and matching the base AFR map right now...

I will experiment with both the AVCS and a rich ramp up after I get a decent base tune done...

I think 10 psi by 4000 (3rd gear) is actually good for a 4094r, it will hit it by 4500 in first gear...
To listen to the turbo whistle at 10 psi, it isn't working very hard at all, and probably is not very efficient ...
It is actually violent in first gear, comes on like a light switch...
As soon as you feel the power come in, the wastegates open...
There is plenty more there, I just have to tune my way up to it...

Keep in mind that the 4094r is a 40r turbo with a 42r compressor wheel....
I guess it classifies as a hybrid turbo in that respect, and I can wait until 4000 rpm for the power to come in....

I took it to 7000 rpm today, and it was pulling harder the higher it went, but it started to go lean...
I have added fuel to the map up there, but I haven't driven it that way yet...

My VE is very different from the base map I got...
It was lean at idle, rich in the middle, and way lean up top....

But I am getting there.... :D

Sounds awesome! I like that you are taking the time to work out the low load areas of your map. That is definitely the biggest PITA. I am still fine tuning the light throttle areas of my map to get them perfect but it's a labor of love. ;)

+1 on jays comment regarding the provent. It's a really great unit, however once I removed the filter for the first time I also noticed that the rubber seal had stretched and lost most of it's elasticity. I have about 2000 miles on mine. I am still using it though because I am running mine VTA so the seals aren't critical and any blow-by draining back to the oil burns off anyway.

When the seals in my provent failed, it filled the center of the filter up to the top with white frothy goop, and barfed it into the engine compartment all over everything below it.

...Sounds awesome! I like that you are taking the time to work out the low load areas of your map. That is definitely the biggest PITA. I am still fine tuning the light throttle areas of my map to get them perfect but it's a labor of love. ;)....


One thing that I noticed real quickly is that the IAT comp maps have to be very close before you can get it spot on in some of the low load sites...

My IAT is in the right front fender right now, and it messes with the low load sites...
With it in the fender, it gets to much other air on it, ie, heat from cooling system, etc...

I am going to put an IAT sensor in my intake or charge pipe and redo the maps to get the slight throttle part right everywhere...
Thats the only way I can see getting all of the low load cells to act right all of the time....

My list of things to do keeps getting bigger, even though things are get done on it....:huh:

One thing that I noticed real quickly is that the IAT comp maps have to be very close before you can get it spot on in some of the low load sites...

My IAT is in the right front fender right now, and it messes with the low load sites...
With it in the fender, it gets to much other air on it, ie, heat from cooling system, etc...

I am going to put an IAT sensor in my intake or charge pipe and redo the maps to get the slight throttle part right everywhere...
Thats the only way I can see getting all of the low load cells to act right all of the time....


I had the same issue, my temp sensor was in the fender and I relocated it to sit directly in front of my air filter with good results. Ideally I'd like a sensor with quick response in the charge pipe just before the TB. Unfortunately my EMS has very coarse (3 point) IAT comp maps for fueling/ign but I should stop before I go on a rant about the shortcomings my setup!


My list of things to do keeps getting bigger, even though things are get done on it....:huh:

:lol:

Picture Update....

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/0960.JPG

I know, the car needs a bath.............:huh:

More pics of the car itself? How much of a sleeper is this going to be?

Is that a "Pep Boys Special" filter I see? :D

More pics of the car itself? How much of a sleeper is this going to be?

The only changes things you can see from the outside of the car are, the exhaust and the intercooler, and all the emblems are removed....

So yes it is a sleeper....

http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/0961.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/0962.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/shvrdavid/0963.JPG

Is that a "Pep Boys Special" filter I see? :D

Yep, open box buy.... Couldn't pass it up for the price... :p

I had to make a new gasket for it to mount it to the inlet pipe....

Yep, open box buy.... Couldn't pass it up for the price... :p

I had to make a new gasket for it to mount it to the inlet pipe....

I run one on my car too. Supposedly flows 850+CFM. ;)

The only changes things you can see from the outside of the car are, the exhaust and the intercooler, and all the emblems are removed....

So yes it is a sleeper....


^^^your a mean mean man debadging and making it seem like a normal STi....tisk tisk tisk

:lol::lol:

^^^your a mean mean man debadging and making it seem like a normal STi....tisk tisk tisk

:lol::lol:

:devil:

Sounds awesome! I like that you are taking the time to work out the low load areas of your map. That is definitely the biggest PITA. I am still fine tuning the light throttle areas of my map to get them perfect but it's a labor of love. ;)

+1 on jays comment regarding the provent. It's a really great unit, however once I removed the filter for the first time I also noticed that the rubber seal had stretched and lost most of it's elasticity. I have about 2000 miles on mine. I am still using it though because I am running mine VTA so the seals aren't critical and any blow-by draining back to the oil burns off anyway.

Wittmer 25 is running 5w30 pennsoil at the moment what are you other guys using on the provent? It's a diesel filter so the o rings should be good unless it's the fuel thats screwing them up. I'm sure Wittmer 25 is past 2500 miles now and no problems that I know of. I'll see this weekend we're going to try motul gear 300 on his tranny for a scratch in 5th at 7k.

I hooked up my Boost Controller yesterday, and set it to 26%... That gives me about 1 bar of boost...

It took as little bit of experimenting to get the fuel map right at the level, but I think I have it very close now...

I won't be able to raise the boost much more than that until my secondary fuel system is installed...

The 800's are at about 85% duty cycle by 7500rpm...

The but dyno say that it pulls much harder than my modified 30r ever did....

Here is the real kicker...

Now that I have played around with the AVCS map and added a little fuel to where it spools up... The 4094r starts to spool about 750~1000 rpm later than the 30r did...

In the higher gears, 3rd and up at 1 bar, the wastegates open about 4200 rpm at 1 bar... :p

The turbo hold boost so well that there is basically no spool down during normal shifting...

A few people told me that the 4094r was too big of a turbo for my setup...
Well, they were obviously wrong....

I am so glad that I didn't listen to them... I can hardly wait to be able to turn the boost up some more... :D

During normal driving it makes positive pressure, it doesn't surge at all when it comes in...

At 1 bar of boost this tubro is just getting started, but still moves 70+ lbs/min at that level....
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/images/catalog/Turbochargers/gt40_images/GT4094R_Comp_large.gif

If you are building a motor and think that the 4094r is too big, think again...

As good as mine runs at 1 bar, I can imagine how well it will run at 2 or more....

I can has 2 bar?

ttiwwomp.

Well, I am officialy out of injector... :huh:

I made it to about 17psi, and there just isn't any more injector pulse width left...

Time for some bigger injectors... Then I guess I can start over in the tuning department...

At least I have a decent base map to go from now...

How big do you think I should go??

I may just break down and get 8 bosch 1600cc injectors and call it a day...

I must have missed what type of fuel you're going to be running, is this running E85?

*edit*
Just went back and re-read the first post where your fuel plans are. It's been awhile since I read that :lol:

david, so what fuel are you on now? what pressure and what size injector?

a refresher please ;)

david, so what fuel are you on now? what pressure and what size injector?

a refresher please ;)

Pump gas, 800cc @43 psi, running 50 psi base....

I guess I should add that I bumped that base pressure up to get where I am at now...
I don't want to bump it up anymore...

The secondary fuel system is still in the works...
That will be the E85 part of the setup...
I am still unsure of a few details relating to the Hydra on the E85 part...
I need a pin out diagram for the Hydra as well, I guess I will have to email Phil for that....

I will be putting some more miles on the engine at 14 psi, I think I have about 550 miles on it so far...
Tomorrow I am going to change the oil and disect the oil filter...
I doubt that there will be anything to worry about in the filter, but I am going to look anyway...
Better safe than sorry....

I have an exhaust leak when it is cold, I need to find that asap, it sounds like it is at the head on the passengers side...

My list is still getting longer, and yet, I am getting things done at the same time.... :huh:

My list is still getting longer, and yet, I am getting things done at the same time.... :huh:

Trust me...the list will keep growing.... it never seems to end...:furious:

Trust me...the list will keep growing.... it never seems to end...:furious:

I can relate to that...

It seems to be an endless cycle....:huh:

keep the updates son! (lol, you're probably older than me)

f5 f5 f5 f5 f5 f5 f5 f5

Tomorrow I am going to change the oil and disect the oil filter...
I doubt that there will be anything to worry about in the filter, but I am going to look anyway...
Better safe than sorry....


I cut apart every oil filter after my bearing failure. 5-10 mins and an oily mess is worth the peace of mind IMHO.

Had I not found the flakes in the filter when I had the failure, I would have surely done more damage as I was in the process of WOT tuning.

I cut apart every oil filter after my bearing failure. 5-10 mins and an oily mess is worth the peace of mind IMHO.

Had I not found the flakes in the filter when I had the failure, I would have surely done more damage as I was in the process of WOT tuning.

I cut my filter open today after I changed the oil...

Nothing to worry about in it... :D

shvrdavid

great project you have going on here.

I am seriously considering a GT4088R for my 2.35 classic STI RA build for my Time Attack car.

Whilst I appreciate yours is a new age car and so some dimensions will be different to my classic, I just wanted to ask what you have done with your brake master cylinder, etc - as i can't see one in your pics and it is my worry that the GT4088R simply won't fit in the normal rotated position.

Your response would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Terry :D

It wont on a RHD car, dump the brake and clutch master cylinder and install a pedal box

It wont on a RHD car, dump the brake and clutch master cylinder and install a pedal box

It fits on my RHD but just :D

I guess Im talking about a kit install, you're right Tino anything is possible if you are willing to go custom.

^^^^

Apparently full face are working on a RHD version but not sure how far they are going with the R&D

shvrdavid

great project you have going on here.

I am seriously considering a GT4088R for my 2.35 classic STI RA build for my Time Attack car.

Whilst I appreciate yours is a new age car and so some dimensions will be different to my classic, I just wanted to ask what you have done with your brake master cylinder, etc - as i can't see one in your pics and it is my worry that the GT4088R simply won't fit in the normal rotated position.

Your response would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Terry :D

My car is Left Hand Drive...

Like the others have said, relacation of the master cylinders to the inside of the car with a Tilton or similar setup will solve that problem on RHD...

Ah of course - silly me never thought of that :D

The pedal box is certainly an option I'm considering :D

Cheers

Terry

shvr, are you concerned at all that having to do so much initial tuning is not allowing you to put enough load on the rings to get a tight break in?

ken

shvr, are you concerned at all that having to do so much initial tuning is not allowing you to put enough load on the rings to get a tight break in?

ken

I took that into consideration during the tuning process...

Once I had the 10psi cells close I put about 100 miles of "high load" driving on it to pressure seat the rings... I actually did that before I had a decent idle, I didn't want the rings to seat under "low load"...

I have one of the breathers open to the air so it will spray oil on the hood if I get too much blowby, so far the blowby is normal, actually less than the stock engine was... There is very little oil consumption, even with the loose piston to wall clearances that I am running...

I am going to do a leak down and compression test to it this coming weekend to know how well the rings have actually seated...
I will also look around in the cylinders with my bore scope to see if there are any problems that the compression leak down don't show yet...

Any updates? This build is most excellent :)

Any updates? This build is most excellent :)

Nothing major to report, other than a few setbacks...

The lr wheel bearing went the other day...

I discovered that the axle nuts were never staked from the factory...

All 4 of them were loose, and the lr was really loose...

It chewed up the rotor and did a little cosmetic damage to the caliper...

It is back together now....

bummer...small set backs all add up and suck :sadbanana:

Sick, its going to be a beast

cant wait to see the #'s she puts down:devil:

come on david... we want to see a run :D

come on david... we want to see a run :D

I know...

I am still slowly working my way thru the maps...

As I increase the boost, I am having to pull a lot of timing in the base map that I have...

The base map was for the Elemement turbo, that doesn't flow anywhere near this much much air...

I know that may sound strange, but I am going on the "better safe than sorry route" in the tuning department... The weather hasn't helped a bit around here either... We have had a lot of rain, and I can't tune it when it is raining, or the humidity is high...

This has been a real learning process for me since most of my high flow, high boost tuning experience is with N-alpha... And you can only use that with "fixed boost" , not with turbo's...

Without looking at the logs I have now, I would guess that I am able to reach positive pressure by 2000 rpm .4 bar by 3000 and 1.7 by 4500rpm, anything above that will make what ever you set the controller to...

I may be over complicating my tuning a little, but like I said before...
"Better safe than sorry"...

That, and I might hook up my water/meth injection and tune that out on different maps so I can see the difference it makes on the dyno

I have about 2000 miles on it now, and everything with the build seems to have been a complete success...
(Due to the inspection, emissions laws around here, I can only put 4999 miles on the car a year) and It is due for inspection in October... :huh:

It is all the little things that have happened afterwards that are a pain...

Wheel bearing for one, and a few other gremlins have appeared as well...

I guess that is to be expected at this power level... :D

But on another note, I am getting there, slowly.......

To much to do, not enough time to do it..... Can you relate ????

4999 miles a year...man I'm glad southern VA and FL don't have emissions :D

I have about 2000 miles on it now, and everything with the build seems to have been a complete success...
(Due to the inspection, emissions laws around here, I can only put 4999 miles on the car a year) and It is due for inspection in October... :huh:



You don't have a hook up to fix that?! PM me come October and you'll be legit.
Now that that problem is taken care you have no more excuses other than weather and stupid small setbacks!

I know...

I am still slowly working my way thru the maps...

As I increase the boost, I am having to pull a lot of timing in the base map that I have...

The base map was for the Elemement turbo, that doesn't flow anywhere near this much much air...

I know that may sound strange, but I am going on the "better safe than sorry route" in the tuning department... The weather hasn't helped a bit around here either... We have had a lot of rain, and I can't tune it when it is raining, or the humidity is high...

This has been a real learning process for me since most of my high flow, high boost tuning experience is with N-alpha... And you can only use that with "fixed boost" , not with turbo's...

Without looking at the logs I have now, I would guess that I am able to reach positive pressure by 2000 rpm .4 bar by 3000 and 1.7 by 4500rpm, anything above that will make what ever you set the controller to...

I may be over complicating my tuning a little, but like I said before...
"Better safe than sorry"...

That, and I might hook up my water/meth injection and tune that out on different maps so I can see the difference it makes on the dyno

I have about 2000 miles on it now, and everything with the build seems to have been a complete success...
(Due to the inspection, emissions laws around here, I can only put 4999 miles on the car a year) and It is due for inspection in October... :huh:

It is all the little things that have happened afterwards that are a pain...

Wheel bearing for one, and a few other gremlins have appeared as well...

I guess that is to be expected at this power level... :D

But on another note, I am getting there, slowly.......

To much to do, not enough time to do it..... Can you relate ????



Yep mate, i know exactly how u feel.. big power that we are chasing always has more setbacks before u get to move forward..

bump for updates?

I'll second that bump:p

I'll second that bump:p

I haven't done much with Subaru recently... At least not that is worth posting...
I did order some more goodies for it, but they are all not here yet...
Mostly I'm just driving it around here and there to fine tune it (driveability) and further seat everything in...
I have developed an exhaust leak on the car, and I need to find/fix that...


I have done more to my bike, than anything else... (ZX14)
I might turbocharge it, as well...
I have a few turbo options that would look good sitting under the radiator of the bike.... :eek:


I have also been helping out with a few other friends projects...

I will get back to the Subaru soon, I promise.... :D
I just need a few more parts to wrap it up...
Then I need to decide who to take it to so it can be dyno tuned on the top end...

can you tell me did you have the wastegates on the uppipe when you dropped it into the car?

can you tell me did you have the wastegates on the uppipe when you dropped it into the car?

Nope, I took them off to put it into the car...

It might have been easier if I had left them on....
They are not real easy to put on in the car....:huh:

Bump for update.. Car still running? Tunning coming along?? I'm using the same turbo so I'm very interested on this build. Still in the building engine up to handle this turbo... :devil:

Bump for update.. Car still running? Tunning coming along?? I'm using the same turbo so I'm very interested on this build. Still in the building engine up to handle this turbo... :devil:

Yep, car runs fine... I am in the process of fabbing up a few more things for it right now...

Hopefully I can turn it up after a few more upgrades are put on...
I have most of the maps worked out to about 24 psi...
I can't go past that until the fuel system and a few other things are replaced...

Are you still running the 850cc injectors?? And 24psi is maxing them out or very close to it?? What are you Fab'n up???

my tial 38mm failed on me when using race gas(even though it was unleaded vp109, they say on the box that you and i have not to use leaded gas(i have no idea the properties of the fuel you are running or e85), now tial has come out with the 38mm Vband ewg...you might want to look into it(if its not to late)

Are you still running the 850cc injectors?? And 24psi is maxing them out or very close to it?? What are you Fab'n up???

Yep, 850's with the pressure bumped, ran out of injector and pump, and that is with the water/alcohol injection....

I am designing a fuel system and tossing around some intake designs...


soon2bblackongold, my setup has two of the 38mm vband ones on it...

sorry to crap in your thread, but do you guys have a link to the 38mm vband wastegates or any info at all? Couldn't find anything on tialsport.com

Correction, mine are bolt on ones... Brain fart...:huh:

What's the latest on this build?

yah!!! ;):)

zx14 with a turbo? My dad has that bike 08 Kawi zx 1400 and it runs 9.0 sec quarter mile. its the fastest street bike...203mph you wanna turbo it? Im in shock for what, you might fall of the back of that *****, you cant turn the blinker off getting on the highway on one of these bike the acceleration is to much...Thats like a sore neck after one pull kinda deal with a turbo... Bad ***

Turbo bikes are insane. I got a ride about a year ago on a GSXR with a built 1200cc motor (think it came out of a bandit originally) and a 30r turbo and it was completely nuts. I had trouble keeping my vision straight under full throttle.

bump... it's been too long, what's going on!? Everything working ok?

bump... it's been too long, what's going on!? Everything working ok?


Actually, no... :diaf: I am sure I pushed it a little to far......

The engine lost oil pressure, not for long, but long enough that it has a few slight knocks...
I am not sure what went wrong...
The pistons aren't hitting the heads, but the thing needs torn down and inspected...

Hopefully I can just swap in a new crank and resize the rods...
I am not sure when I will tear it down, probably after the Holidays...


Speaking of that, Happy Holidays to Everybody out there...

Speaking of that, Happy Holidays to Everybody out there...

Same goes to you and yours!

Best of luck with your build.