Just got back from Yimi sport. Great guys would go back to them in a heart beat. Any way heres my build

fp20g 8cm
JDM STi TMIC
255 lph fuel pump ( Or something like that)
deatschwerks 750cc injectors
Cobb TBE
Cobb APv2
Sti splitter and bellows
Thats it all stock other then that. It's a daily driver and I make frequnet long trips in it. But not a racer, no drag or auto x I just wanted a bit more pep up top for the freeway.

This is on ca 91 piss gas.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/-GOs-thrice/wrxdyno4108.jpg
Paul seemed to think he could get more out of it but i was just happy right here for now. It's what he called a conservative tune. But i think it's a ******* blast to drive.

I put it together myself then drove it 30 miles down there so no dyno pulls prior to the trubo swap.
Sorry. Oh but he did say a stock 06-07 WRX makes about 190-200 hp on their dyno So thats what like 130 more hp then stock? not bad.

I know I know "you better start to save for a trans." Thanks

Glad you are enjoying the car. I definitely could have squeezed a bit more power out of your car, but since we already hit your power goals and your car never even hinted at knocking I figured we'd leave well enough alone :) Definitely not bad for such a mildly modded car running with a catted DP.

nice numbers, though a little on the conservative side...i have nearly identical setup as yourself, but tuned with enginuity....going to get dynoed soon....

:lol:you should probably start saving for a trans...:lol:

nice numbers....

My goal was 325, 325, I wanted conservative. You guys (nasioc) got me freaked over my trans. So yeah got exactly what I wanted plus a little bit extra torque. Truthfully I don't really care about numbers. They vary quite a bit from car to car dyno to dyno day to day. I use numbers to help understand what the car will feel like. I just put this up because when I searched for similar set ups I found very few posted. I was concerned with lag. But now I see that was silly. It feels just like my stg. 2 till 3500 rpm then it's a whole other beast. So maybe some one can see this and know a little more about what to expect from a similar set up.

Oh and this was all pretty cheap too. Top Quality parts but selectively chosen.

Except for my ebay y-pipe heh. I could not bring myself to pay $200 for what basically is a rubber tube. Silicone what ever it's a glorified radiator hose.:lol:

My motors happy, I'm happy, but my girlfriend won't ride in my car anymore:devil:

My motors happy, I'm happy, but my girlfriend won't ride in my car anymore:devil:


More room for other women.....:devil::banana::devil:

im glad you posted this and you are absolutely correct: there ARENT many 20g threads in here and when i was buying mine my search for power threads was very limited. this would have helped me quite a bit, but i ended up going that route anyways and couldnt be happier:)

How is the heat soak with that turbo?

It's was a nice cool day today so yeah so far so good. After I dunno 10+ dyno runs The IC was fine. Sprayed it with some water once towards the end. I asked Paul about is he said he had no complaints, was working fine. My intake temps were 10 degrees above out side air on the way home after pushing it pretty hard on the freeway. I might wrap the turbo if the IC gets hot during the summer. I think the Sti splitter helps a lot too. It's much bigger then the WRX one and bolts right up.

nice numbers, that's basically the same setup i'm planning on doing...also gonna have it tuned at Yimisport


Laz

td05 or td06 turbine wheel? Very nice #'s and it looks like it spools very quickly also.

Oh and this was all pretty cheap too. Top Quality parts but selectively chosen.

Except for my ebay y-pipe heh. I could not bring myself to pay $200 for what basically is a rubber tube. Silicone what ever it's a glorified radiator hose.:lol:


And 3" stainless steal is 3" stainless, but yours has a Cobb stamp on it so it costs $1200 instead of $150 ;) :devil: ;)

Nice tune paul. Whats the boost look like on this thing? 23psi all the way to redline? Thats conservative, right? :)

And 3" stainless steal is 3" stainless, but yours has a Cobb stamp on it so it costs $1200 instead of $150 ;) :devil: ;)

Nice tune paul. Whats the boost look like on this thing? 23psi all the way to redline? Thats conservative, right? :)

Naw man ;) 20.5 psi tapering to 17.5 psi up top. 10.5* of timing at torque peak ramping to 20.5* at redline. I know every tune in PPB is "conservative", but IMHO this one really was. Heck, the OP asked me if I could dial down the torque a bit. I could have, but when we hit the load to log it and the car came up on boost he was like "Whoa!" :banana: I'll consider that a job well done :lol:

I believe it was more explicit then whoa:D
Damn thing is scary when it comes on boost. You should of seen my gf and dad when they went for a ride though haha. He wants me to build him a turbo slant 6 Dart now:lol:

nice tune and build good choice OP. Meth is next ;)

Phatron is pretty smart and he thinks a TMIC is ok. sure you won't win the 24 hours of LeMans with it but for most street driving it is ok

How much boost?

I know you didn't mention this but did you use the stock inlet and intake?

How much boost?

20.5 psi tapering to 17.5 psi.

I know you didn't mention this but did you use the stock inlet and intake?

Stock intake. Stock turbo inlet. No TGV deletes. No headers.

Just the 20g, a catted turboback, an STi TMIC, pump and injectors. It was a very minimally modded car, just about as little as you can change and still effectively run a 20g. Worked great though. Sometimes less is more :D

I've been reading and I found mixed results. Does the Cobb TBE taper down to 2.5"?

The reason I'm asking is because I'm going to be running a similar setup with a MadDad Catted Stealthback that tapers down to a 2.5" Whisper axleback.

If I can get similar results with my planned setup I'd be happy....:disco:

Thanks.

The DP to mid pipe tapers down to use the stock doughnut gasket, but it goes back to 3 inch after that. It's just at the gasket.
So like this
=======><======

Oh and to the guy that asked about the turbine wheel.

It's a used FP and i did not ask. So i don't know if it's the wheel FP used to use or TDO6SL2 turbine wheel. They changed recently iirc.

Whats your mileage like on those long trips with this setup?

Well like I said i got it done yesterday so, don't truly know yet but i can tell you this below 3500rpm it's better then stock above it's umm worse. Cruising at 70 on the way home I was seeing trip averages of 32 mpg going up hill on the the access port. I will update the long term affects like heat soak and mpg more accurately latter. Because I know those were question i had when I was planing this and again there was not much info out there.

wow, thanks for posting, I too am going to do a conservitive tune on a 20g. I'm sure I'll be happy with the results!

you got 32mpg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats settled, im going for a 20g. Ill just stay outta boost when i want better mileage.

why are you at 13.0 - 1 when going into boost?

Nice!!! Im getting ready to tune my 07 with a ton of stuff installed. Save the best for last right? Injectors on the way and have to call deadbolt for a conversation. Thanks for posting!! Very helpfull to me.

you got 32mpg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats settled, im going for a 20g. Ill just stay outta boost when i want better mileage.
LOL well don't go on that yet, wait a few days and I will post more accurate results. That was a short trip of all freeway. Around town will probably be much worse.
Cruising at 70mph it was just like my cobb stage 2 mpg wise.

Paul said on the phone he could do a economy map for me, but the day of he was having so much fun making power I just let him do his thing.

In terms of the A/F ration question tuning is a mystery to me. I have no idea what goes on lol. I just sat there and enjoyed the music of the motor. So don't ask me. All I know is Paul took his time, was having fun doing it, and the motor is happy. So in that sense it was great tune to me.

Nice!!! Im getting ready to tune my 07 with a ton of stuff installed. Save the best for last right? Injectors on the way and have to call deadbolt for a conversation. Thanks for posting!! Very helpfull to me.
If you are going to install the injectors yourself. It's sort of a pain but doable. The passenger side bracket is easy, but the drivers side one sucks. The good news is you don't need to re-install the drivers side bracket. I left mine off and I plan to destroy it violently..... It's how I deal.

why are you at 13.0 - 1 when going into boost?

Running leaner AFR's on the transition to boost allows EGT's to be kept higher and spool the turbo faster. As you can see the second the car really gets in to significant boost the AFR's drop smoothly to about 11 to 1. You can run the car a bit richer on spool-up and run a more timing and I sometimes do that. Just depends on what the car likes. Typically on the smaller turbos I will spool them up a bit richer as the transition to higher boost levels is quicker.

BTW, with the cat in the DP, the actual AFR's are skewed leaner by around .3-.5. so in reality the actual AFR's are more like 12.5 to 1 on spool and 11 to 1 in the powerband.

Running leaner AFR's on the transition to boost allows EGT's to be kept higher and spool the turbo faster. As you can see the second the car really gets in to significant boost the AFR's drop smoothly to about 11 to 1. You can run the car a bit richer on spool-up and run a more timing and I sometimes do that. Just depends on what the car likes. Typically on the smaller turbos I will spool them up a bit richer as the transition to higher boost levels is quicker.

BTW, with the cat in the DP, the actual AFR's are skewed leaner by around .3-.5. so in reality the actual AFR's are more like 12.5 to 1 on spool and 11 to 1 in the powerband.

I guess I was expecting it to be a little bit richer about 500 rpm's sooner. I also do realize leaner afr's can help improve spool.

he had to hit peak boost at around 3500 rpms and was most likely at least at 16-18 psi by 3000, even if we account for the cat 12.5 seems a bit lean for my tastes, especially on what the guy said was a conservative tune, and this is on pos 91.

Running leaner AFR's on the transition to boost allows EGT's to be kept higher and spool the turbo faster. As you can see the second the car really gets in to significant boost the AFR's drop smoothly to about 11 to 1. You can run the car a bit richer on spool-up and run a more timing and I sometimes do that. Just depends on what the car likes. Typically on the smaller turbos I will spool them up a bit richer as the transition to higher boost levels is quicker.

BTW, with the cat in the DP, the actual AFR's are skewed leaner by around .3-.5. so in reality the actual AFR's are more like 12.5 to 1 on spool and 11 to 1 in the powerband.

Help me understand this Paul. The O2 sensor (wideband or narrow) is only responding to the presence of O2. The only function which the converter will liberate or "increase" the amount of free O2 is during the reduction of NOx releasing N2 + O2. The converter will reduce the the amount of free O2 during the oxidation of HCs and CO. I would think that if anything a WB located after the converter would indicate richer since I expect CO and HC emissions to consume free O2 during the oxidation process. I wouldn't think the reduction of NOx would liberate signicant quatities of O2 in relation.

FWIW at closed loop idle (14.7) my tailpipe emissions will saturate a 50ppm CO sensor and I have a high-flow Cat.

Thanks,
Jacob

While I understand your reasoning Jacob, for some reason it seems to work the other way in practice. I have a cat in my car and my tailpipe readings are consistently .4 higher at the tailpipe compared to the wideband in my downpipe. I have observed the same thing in other cars as well. Feedback from other tuners reflects the same experience.

With regards to the tune, the car never even hinted at knocking. It never pulled even .5* of timing during the whole tune session even on quick back to back runs. I only stopped pushing it more because the OP feared for his tranny and I had already reached his power goals.

I like it can't wait to get my 20g that's on 91oct to great #'s.

Help me understand this Paul. The O2 sensor (wideband or narrow) is only responding to the presence of O2. The only function which the converter will liberate or "increase" the amount of free O2 is during the reduction of NOx releasing N2 + O2. The converter will reduce the the amount of free O2 during the oxidation of HCs and CO. I would think that if anything a WB located after the converter would indicate richer since I expect CO and HC emissions to consume free O2 during the oxidation process. I wouldn't think the reduction of NOx would liberate signicant quatities of O2 in relation.

FWIW at closed loop idle (14.7) my tailpipe emissions will saturate a 50ppm CO sensor and I have a high-flow Cat.

Thanks,
Jacob

I'll throw in the data that I collected on my car, which has the Cobb Cat'd DP. The AFR numbers are logged simultaneously, with one in the DP bung and the other clamped to the tail pipe.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5646/postcatafrcomparesq4.gif

I'll throw in the data that I collected on my car, which has the Cobb Cat'd DP. The AFR numbers are logged simultaneously, with one in the DP bung and the other clamped to the tail pipe.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5646/postcatafrcomparesq4.gif

Thanks for the data. That's great info! While there doesn't appear to be as large a difference as I have experienced on the cars I've seen, the general trend is definitely for the AFR before the cat to be lower than after the cat.

Looks great Paul! OP, enjoy your new set-up. Cheers...

32 mpg????

you're stoked. great numbers. any plans to upgrade the drivetrain at all?

Sounds like an excellent set-up.


But let's keep in mind that mpg is all relative to your driving style.


In my old STI with fpred, ewg, tbe, 740cc, fp, etc. I was seeing 350-360 miles to the tank driving cross country for a rally. Much of this was staying out of boost but some spirited moments as I was driving with a rotated rs swap, evo, cayman s.


Stay off that throttle and gas mileage goes way up.

Unfortunately, I highly doubt that Hayduke is getting 32 mpg. IIRC the fuel economy display on the AP calculates mileage based on injector duty cycle and vehicle speed. Since the car has larger injectors, the IDC's are obviously lower even though the same amount of fuel is being injected. As such the MPG reading on the AP is basically useless.

My LGT has a OEM MPG display and with the 850 injectors in there, I've seen 55 mpg on a steady all freeway trip. Obviously not accurate.

Lmao I kinda had a feeling something was going on. I was getting better mpg then before.
I will go threw a few tanks, and let you all know, the old fashion way.