Any ideas what is causing this? As far as electrical goes, I didn't really do much.


Boost and EGT gauge
Standard Pioneer head unit
Hooked up Hella Supertones without the resistor box
Swapped my gauge cluster bulbs to LEDs
Disconnected my seat beat chiming alarm
Disabled day time running lights
Performed the fog light stand alone trickAll of this was AFTER this issue sprout however. I've been having this issue for about a year now and it's bugging the hell out of me. That and when the ABS light comes on and clicks off, mine will stay on some time WITH the brake light. Any idea what the hell is wrong?

Sometimes I will turn the key, all the status lights come on and go off. The ABS sometimes stays on as well as the BRAKE light (even with the brake handle down) and stays on the whole time. If I pull in somewhere and run inside while the car idles with the E-Brake on (No lights, radio normal) and after about 5 -10 minutes that car will start to idle very oddly. If I push the gas, the car cuts out or dies. Then I have to jump start it to get it to kick on.

I suggest you have the alternator checked to see if it has the proper output. Also check to see if there is any AC at the output, indicating bad diodes.

Clean the battery connections using a battery cleaning brush. Clean and check the grounding to the chassis.

Alternator was replaced, clean the battery terminals with water and baking soda and reconnected them with vaseline. I bought a grounding kit, maybe that will help, but I'm going to go in through the console and check any wires I find.

I see you cleaned the battery terminals but did you clean the contact surfaces of the battery posts and cables using a battery post cleaning brush? This is important since it removes any surface layer on the connections that can cause trouble. I assume you didn't put any vaseline on the contact areas as this acts as a insulator.

If the E-brake light is coming on while the ignition is turned OFF then there is a back feed coming from somewhere. If this is so you can pull fuses to help you locate the source of trouble. My first check would be to remove the small wire connector on the alternator to see if that is where the trouble is coming from. I have seen that happen to others in the past.

So i got my Access Port finally and I've been cruising around with it running some live displays for me. I used the volt meter to check my battery. During normal driving and sitting at a light, it sits around 13.8 - 13.4 volts. If I stop anywhere and just let the car sit, it stays in the values. As soon as I pull the E-Brake my output drops to 12.0 then to about 11 flat. This can't be normal.

Just parked, no E-brake, A/C on full blast it's still getting 13.2 to 13.5 consistently. Apply the brake and it drops immediately to 11.5ish and then sits around 11.1 to 11.

What's my issue? Battery? Alternator was replaced about 1000 miles ago.

It sounds like there is a real high load being put on the electrical system when the E-brake is on. It would be good to know what the voltage is directly at the battery when the brake is on just in case there is a problem with the circuit to the E-brake.

Do you know what shape the battery is in? If not, I suggest you get a load test done on it. The trouble may also be with the brake causing the alternator charging circuit to fail. There may be a bad blocking diode. I will have to look at a diagram to see about that.

Battery is original :eek:

Time for an Optima?

I would have the battery tested before doing anything with it. It may be ok but just needs charging. As far as Optima batteries go, I don't see why spending so much on a battery makes a real difference for most folks that get them. You can purchase two very good Die Hard batteries for the price of one Optima. I have a Die Hard battery that is over 12 years old in my truck. That is just my opinion though. You could purchase a nice voltmeter with the money saved on the battery, if you don't have one.

BTW, what is the year and model of your car?

I looked at some data for a '04 WRX and it shows that a diode located in the dash combination meter isolates the E-brake and alternator circuits. The data shows that a blk/wht wire going to the alternator has a diode in the circuit to stop voltage backfeeding to the E-brake. If you see that wire on the alternator, disconnect it and then see if the voltage drops when the brake handle is up.

did u buy used? could have been prev turbo timer

Check your battery connection (+/-) make sure - is grounded tight to the chasis.

I looked at some data for a '04 WRX and it shows that a diode located in the dash combination meter isolates the E-brake and alternator circuits. The data shows that a blk/wht wire going to the alternator has a diode in the circuit to stop voltage backfeeding to the E-brake. If you see that wire on the alternator, disconnect it and then see if the voltage drops when the brake handle is up.

Wow, thanks for that info. I would've never found it otherwise.

Wow, thanks for that info. I would've never found it otherwise.

This is what I came up with. This is the only thing that had a black and white wire running to the alternator.

I pulled off the entire unit as pictured and started the car. It idled at around 12.0 - 12.4 volts. I dropped the E-Brake and got no change whatsoever.

I popped it back on and started the car again. It idled again around 12.0 - 12.4. I dropped the E-Brake and it instantly spiked to 13.1 then 13.6 then 14.0

What's the deal here? Do i have to pop that white wire out somehow? I don't think my car should only run at 12.5 volts though... This was all measured at idle though.

The measurements you took seem to verify that there is a problem with the blocking diode in the brake light warning indicator. When you pulled the brake handle it closes the brake switch and makes a ground connection. This will ground the blk/wht wire going to the alternator, if the blocking diode is shorted, through another diode in the ciricuit. To verify that another way you could measure the voltage on the blk/wht wire going to the alternator and everything connected normally while the car is idling. First measure the voltage on the wire with the E-brake off and then with the E-brake on. I suspect the voltage will drop to around .7 volts with the brake on. This would mean the blocking diode is bad. You will most likely have to replace the warning light module unless you can get to the inside of it and replace the bad diode.

Test it by taking that clip back off? Test the pin with the Brake on and off and it should change? Or hows the best way to test it? And how would I change the warning light indicator and/or the diode? :confused:

Check the voltage on the blk/wht wire, on the back side of the alternator, using a voltmeter. Leave everything hooked up as it should be. If you can't place a meter probe on the back side of the connector to make connection you will have to pierce the insulation of the wire. You should cover the hole afterwards with some silicone if you do that. Start the car and leave the E-brake off. Measure the voltage on the blk/wht alternator lead. Then apply the E-brake and measure the voltage again. Write down the voltages you read for both measurements and let me know what they are. The voltages readings are of course taken with reference to a good ground point, like the alternator case.

The data I looked at seems to indicate that the brake warning light is a module with more than just a light in it. If that proves to be bad you will need to replace the small module.

What kind of Pioneer Unit? Standard meaning cd player only?
What year car/model?
What was the result of Cougars test recommendation?

Ok, I jacked a volt meter from work (PC Tech, lol).

Car was at idle sitting in my driveway. No lights, door open, radio on average to low volume. I used as a ground the alternator case, ground terminal on battery, and car frame. I used all three ground points for ALL FOUR readouts to ensure accuracy.

E-Brake OFF:



14.1v at the battery terminals



13.45v at the wire where it connects to the alternator


E-Brake ON:



12.5v at the battery terminals



0.65v at the wire where it connects to the alternator


So the results show that when the ground is made from my E-Brake, it kills the voltage! :diaf: What now?

Good job on the voltage checks. From looking at the results it appears I may have been correct about the shorted diode in the brake warning light section of the combination meter. I suggest you replace it and then see what the voltages are when the brake is ON. You will notice that the voltage reading at the battery goes down to the battery voltage when the brake is ON, the alternator isn't charging at all.

One thing you could do in order to use the brake until this is repaired is to disconnect the wire going the the E-brake. This should break the ground path and keep the circuit isolated from ground. You can prove it by rechecking the battery and wire voltages after removing the wire to the E-brake. The charging voltage should stay up when the brake is ON. Of course there will be no warning light to show the brake is ON if you do that, so you need to keep that in mind if you do this. You can also just not use the E-brake.

Another alternative I just though of is you could install a diode in series with the blk/wht wire going to the alternator to block the current path. This will be a small modification which I don't normally recommend doing but it would probably save you a lot of money. The diode would have to be placed so the anode (the arrow head) points towards the alternator. I would guess a 1N4001 diode would work ok. This is just a general purpose diode and can be purchased at any electronic parts store.

After thinking about this problem and reading your original post again I think it would be wise to do one more test to verify that the blocking diode is bad in the combination meter. You will need the digital voltmeter to perform the test and set to the diode test function. I would like to verify that the diode is shorted. Here are the steps you need to do to make the test:

1. Ignition switch is OFF
2. Remove the connector at the alternator that has the blk/wht wire going to it.
3. With the meter set to the diode testing function, place the red lead of the meter on the connection to the blk/wht wire. Place the meter common lead on the alternator case ground. If the diode is bad you should see a reading of about .70 on the meter. If the diode is really ok then the reading will show 'OL' or perhaps 1.5.

Haven't gotten to check it yet. What if it's the same issue? Change the Diode? Am I going to have to have the dealer do this? And is it going to be an expensive fix ya think?

I would like you to follow the instructions in post #20 when you get a chance just to make sure that the alternator isn't causing the trouble somehow.

I suspect you will verify that the trouble is with the diode in the combination meter and if so you would most likely have to replace the whole meter assembly. I'm sure it would be expensive. If I was working on this I would try getting into the meter and replace the diode itself. This would not be a job that all would be comfortable in doing but isn't real complicated either. The simple solution to this would be to follow the instuctions in the last paragraph of post #19.

Results are in. I used 2 digital volt meters. I test the battery each time with each volt meter on each test.

With the E-Brake off, I consistently got 12.4 volts at the battery, 11.9 volts at the wire, while unplugged from the alternator.

With the E-Brake on, I consistently got 12.3 volts at the battery, 0.9 volts at the wire, while unplugged from the alternator.


So, the diode is bad? And idea where I can read up on how to replace it? If not, what do I tell the repair center at Subaru?

Question. Do you know how to set up the meter to test in the diode test function?

The last results you gave isn't what I wanted you to do exactly. In order to prove without any doubt that the blocking diode is bad in the combination meter I wanted you to do a diode test and that is why I ask you that question. It is easy to set up if you don't know how. It is like checking for resistance but the meter displays differently. If you need help with it I can tell you how to do it.

yea, I dont kno how to do that

Ok. Here is how you do that.

Most all digital meters that I have seen have a diode function test to check the forward and reverse bias of a diode. When the meter is set to this function it will show if the diode being tested is working as it should be. One way the diode will be forward biased and will usually have a reading between .5 and .7 . The reversed bias direction will usually show up as 1.5 or OL possibly.

To set the meter to the diode function you select the spot on the meter that shows the symbol of a diode. It looks like a arrowhead pointing perpendicular to a straight line. I don't know if your meter uses a dial or pushbuttons for selecting the function.

When doing this test make sure the black lead of the meter is tied to the common meter connector so we keep the polarity straight. Follow the instuctions I gave in post #20 and let us know what the meter reading was.

I had my car checked out by the local Subie dealer and after checking it out myself, it appears to be the Diode.

The question I have is, would it have anything to do with me disabling my DTRL? The E-Brake lever engages / disengages the lights, so maybe unplugging the lights caused it to malfunction?

Regardless, where is this damn thing located and how do I replace it? I have no issue buying a diode and soldering it in if thats the case. I pull computers apart all day for fun so I don't mind doing it myself, I just have no damn clue what I'm looking for.

Thanks all, especially you Cougar

You are welcome for the help.

The diode is mounted inside the combination meter. Look for the E-brake warning light. It is mounted inside the meter with it. There are two diodes in there but the one you need to replace is the one tied to the blk/wht wire. You could also just splice in a diode to the wire. Here is a copy of part of the posting in post #19:

Another alternative I just though of is you could install a diode in series with the blk/wht wire going to the alternator to block the current path. This will be a small modification which I don't normally recommend doing but it would probably save you a lot of money (over replacing the whole combination meter). The diode would have to be placed so the anode (the arrow head) points towards the alternator. I would guess a 1N4001 diode would work ok. This is just a general purpose diode and can be purchased at any electronic parts store.

I doubt anything you could have done caused the diode to fail.

Combination meter in the warning light? Where the "BRAKE" light is on the gauge cluster is a combination meter? I haven't gotten a chance to look into it yet, but I have had the cluster out and apart and am not sure what you are talking about.

The manual calls the gauge cluster a combination meter, so you need to open the cluster up and find the diode inside it. I have never done this so I can't offer you any help there. One of the leads to the cluster should be b/w and it is tied to pin B1 on the cluster. That pin ties to the bad diode inside the cluster.

The manual calls the gauge cluster a combination meter, so you need to open the cluster up and find the diode inside it. I have never done this so I can't offer you any help there. One of the leads to the cluster should be b/w and it is tied to pin B1 on the cluster. That pin ties to the bad diode inside the cluster.

Baller! My far right light has been blinking on and off randomly so it'll give me another reason to get in there. Sounds good. I appreciated it, I will report back with my findings and results as I get to it. :disco:

Got a question for anyone out there:

Could disconnecting my DRL connection by the glove box trigger this diode to fail?

No, it wouldn't. What will usually damage a diode is if the forward current that it is rated for is greatly exceeded or a large reverse bias voltage hits it. I wouldn't worry about this happening again.

I checked the diodes and had one that sort of stood out. I'm assuming this may be the problem diode.

DR413 is a little navy blue diode near the large green connector plug on the top of the cluster. I checked both ends of the diode with the e-brake on and off.

The diode is the top image. the dashes are the leads in and out. The ) on there is a black half circle drawn around the hole, The first | is the start of the diode, the space between the first | and the rest shows a light colored part of the diode, the |||| is the solid navy part. The diagram below the diode illistration is the direction I suppose. It's drawn underneath the diode on the board and also right below the diode where another would be. I wrote the results for the diode under each side I tested."Off" is e-Brake off, "On" is e-Brake on.

-)-| ||||--
--|<------
Off: OL Off: OL
On: .098 On: OL

I did not test the diode with the Alternator connection off, I just left it on. Is this enough to help?

Also, testing these, my CEL came on. Maybe I accidentally touched 2 resistors together? Just reset the ECU?

Did you ever undo the DRL mod to see if the problems went away?

Ok, I jacked a volt meter from work (PC Tech, lol).

Car was at idle sitting in my driveway. No lights, door open, radio on average to low volume. I used as a ground the alternator case, ground terminal on battery, and car frame. I used all three ground points for ALL FOUR readouts to ensure accuracy.

E-Brake OFF:



14.1v at the battery terminals



13.45v at the wire where it connects to the alternator


E-Brake ON:



12.5v at the battery terminals



0.65v at the wire where it connects to the alternator


So the results show that when the ground is made from my E-Brake, it kills the voltage! :diaf: What now?

What you have shown above is the alternator is being disabled.


The black wire with a white tracer is what turns on the alternator warning light. Ground turns on the light emmiting diode
13-14.5 is what the voltage should be on the battery if it is cahrging.
this is also close to the system voltage seen on the black wire with a white tracer. (13.45v)

12.6 is a fully charged battery with a light load i.e. not being charged.
0.65v on black wire with a white tracer means the logic in the alternator that turns on the light is active.
I bet the alternator light comes on with the E brake.
I doubt the problem is in the combination meter
Pull the codes to see what is screwed up in the ECU
From the service manual
When any of the following problems occur, the charge lamp illuminates.
a. No voltage generation
b. Excessive output
c. Terminal B disconnection
d. Terminal S disconnection
Brush wear exceeds specified wear limits, field coil circuit is broken, etc.
Output voltage is greater than 16 volts (approx).
Harness is disconnected from alternator terminal B.
Harness is disconnected from alternator terminal S. In this case, voltage is slightly greater than
specified regulated voltage; however, voltage regulation is still controlled and the battery is
prevented from becoming overcharged

How come no one thinks the voltage going into the regulator on the blue red wire is important to check out?

How come no one thinks the voltage going into the regulator on the blue red wire is important to check out?

The reason is, through previous testing we have proved that there is a shorted blocking diode inside the cluster that ties between the alternator charge warning light line and the emergency brake switch line.

WRBlueGD2,

From your measurements I don't think you are on the correct diode. The info I have shows there are several diodes tied to pin B1 of the cluster. We are interested in the one that connects to another diode on pin B19. Using your meter in the diode measurement function you should see a low resistance when you place the probes across the bad diode. Reversing the probes across the bad diode will show about the same results.

How come no one thinks the voltage going into the regulator on the blue red wire is important to check out?

The reason is, through previous testing we have proved that there is a shorted blocking diode inside the cluster that ties between the alternator charge warning light line and the emergency brake switch line.

You don't think you should check and see if the device that is capalable of turning the alternator on and off is supplied with power???? :confused:

Do you agree with the assesment in my previous post the alternator is shut off with the e-brake on????

Is there more to this story? At any time during those mods did you blow a fuse? See sparks or smoke?

You don't think you should check and see if the device that is capalable of turning the alternator on and off is supplied with power???? :confused:

Do you agree with the assesment in my previous post the alternator is shut off with the e-brake on????

The regulator line doesn't really turn the alternator on and off, at least in my opinion, it controls how much current is supplied to the battery as the load changes. The line we are working on and has the trouble on it is the "lamp" lead for the alternator and can turn off the charging action of the alternator since it supplies current to the field of the alternator. Without an exciter field, the alternator is just spinning around.

As far as your assesment about the E-brake causing trouble, yes indeed I agree and is the title of this thread. There is a blocking diode located in the cluster, tied between the alternator "lamp" lead and the E-brake warning light line. From previous testing we have determined that the diode is shorted. So when the E-brake is pulled up and the brake warning switch closes to ground to turn on the E-brake warning light, it also grounds out the "lamp" lead since the diode is shorted. That kills the field inside the alternator and you know the rest of the story when that happens.

The regulator line doesn't really turn the alternator on and off, at least in my opinion, it controls how much current is supplied to the battery as the load changes. The line we are working on and has the trouble on it is the "lamp" lead for the alternator and can turn off the charging action of the alternator since it supplies current to the field of the alternator. Without an exciter field, the alternator is just spinning around.

You should read the Generator section under Starting / Charging in the Car Information Manual (#8) and see if your opinion changes. :)

If you are talking about the following, it doesn't really change my opinion. Notice what is stated under line 1, about voltage regulation. What is the transistor turning on and off? The field circuit, and this is what the line ties to that we are working on. The regulator circuit has nothing to do with the E-brake line from what I have seen.


2. Generator
The generator has a built-in regulator which provides diagnostic functions in addition to a voltage regulating function as follows:

1) Voltage regulation
The on-off operation of transistor connects and disconnects the field current circuit, providing a constant level of output voltage.

2) Diagnosis warning
When any of the following problems occur, the charge lamp illuminates.

(1) No voltage generation
Brush wear exceeds specified wear limits, field coil circuit is broken, etc.
(2) Excessive output
Output voltage is greater than (approx) 16 volts.
(3) Terminal B disconnection
Harness is disconnected from generator terminal B.
(4) Terminal S disconnection
Harness is disconnected from generator terminal S. In this case, voltage is slightly greater than specified regulated voltage; however, voltage regulation is still controlled and the battery is prevented from becoming overcharged.

If it were my car and I determined the alternator shut off when I pulled up on the e-brake handle I would ask myself WHY? And I would look at the inputs and outputs of the alternator.

First I would assure myself I understood how the alternator works. Apparently this isn't going to happen here. Let me ask you some questions;

If you look at the schematic in Starting / Charging in the Car Information Manual (#8) (it is all we have to go on) why do you think they run two wires out of the alternator from terminals S and B, they go to the same point?
Why would you consider the open collecter NPN transistor (Tr2) shown as an input?
looking at the schematic how would you verify the alternator has everything it needs to work? Would the reference voltage that turns on the field winding be one of them?


I used to think Uncle Scotty was just grumpy.

If you are talking about the following, it doesn't really change my opinion. Notice what is stated under line 1, about voltage regulation. What is the transistor turning on and off? The field circuit, and this is what the line ties to that we are working on. The regulator circuit has nothing to do with the E-brake line from what I have seen.

If it were my car and I determined the alternator shut off when I pulled up on the e-brake handle I would ask myself WHY? And I would look at the inputs and outputs of the alternator.


Ok Rick-l. I'm listening. Please tell us what is really happening here, where the problem is and how the E-brake will disable the alternator from charging. (Also note, as far as I know, this is not an STi model and there is only two leads to the back alternator.)

Ok Rick-l. I'm listening. Please tell us what is really happening here, where the problem is and how the E-brake will disable the alternator from charging. (Also note, as far as I know, this is not an STi model and there is only two leads to the back alternator.)
I don’t know what has happened here (and neither do you). I would suggest a more systematic approach than tearing into the instrument cluster.

The wiring diagram shows 3 used terminals on the alternator

A ring tongue terminal on the large bolt (output goes to the battery)
A reference for the regulator on pin 2 of F26 (also goes to the battery)
An output to the indicator on pin 1 of F26
What is the problem with measuring these and seeing what is wrong, if there are any anomalies?

I totally agree with you about checking things out before you go and tear into areas looking for trouble. In regards to that, I don't know if you have read through all the previous posts on this problem and if you haven't you should do that. They will explain why I feel the trouble is within the cluster and apparently the service shop that the OP took it to agrees with that advice. There is a bad diode in the cluster.

I will disagree with you on your statement about what you said about I don't know what is going on with the problem here. I believe I do know what the problem is, but that isn't saying I never have been wrong. I have been wrong on a lot of things.

We have already done testing on pin1 of the B/W wire on the alternator and found that with the E-brake off there is battery voltage there and there isn't a problem. With the E-brake on the voltage drops down to .65 volts. That is the barrier voltage across a diode in the circuit. That diode along with another one (the bad one) is inside the cluster. Check out page WI-65 for the combination meter pdf for further reference.

We have already done testing on pin1 of the B/W wire on the alternator and found that with the E-brake off there is battery voltage there and there isn't a problem. With the E-brake on the voltage drops down to .65 volts. That is the barrier voltage across a diode in the circuit. That diode along with another one (the bad one) is inside the cluster. Check out page WI-65 for the combination meter pdf for further reference.:confused::confused::confused::confused:
Let me get this straight:

You measure the OUTPUT on the alternator that indicates a FAULT and when you put the E-Brake on that FAULT
is present?

How is that normal operation???

And that diode between the brake and alternator FAULT light ... Since I didn't design the circuit so I wouldn't know for sure, but I am pretty sure it is put in there just to perform a lamp test of the BRAKE indicator with Key On Engine Off. And if you belive that schematic in the manual shouldn't that pin have Vce sat of Tr2 on it?

Since the original subscriber is no longer listening anyway I will defer to your mystic troubleshooting ability.

What I stated was, when the E-brake handle is down there is no problem with the charging system. It works like it should. When the E-brake is UP, the charging system DOES NOT WORK.

I think the best way to show you what is happening here is to refer to post #23 in this thread. Check out the voltage level taken on the wire (b/w wire) when the brake lever is up, or on. Please note, that when the OP took the voltage readings the connector to the alternator was disconnected from the back of it.

BTW; your thought about the test function of the warning lights is correct.

Could you describe your DRL mod? The alternator warning light signal also goes over there.

DTRL mod was pull apart the connector behind the glove box. Also, while changing the alternator last year, I dropped the wire on top of the alternator on the housing and a large spark causing the main fuse in the vehicle blew. HOWEVER, this has been happening for a very good chunk of time before either of these here events..

It started one random morning, it was cold and windy as hell, maybe 10 below with the wind chill factor and I came out to warm my car. I started it, went inside, came out and it was sputtering to stay on, the dash lights were dim and when I pressed the gas the gas would die. Later, I would let it sit while the ebrake was on and my car would completely shut off. All of this resulted in me jumping the car an it running fine afterwards.

The charging function is clearly disabled when the e-brake is engaged. That's plain and simple. When my car is running, if I have lights on, I can see a large difference in brightness when the ebrake lever is dropped.

If I turn the key on but do not start the car, the ebrake light is on with the handle up (duh) but if I drop the handle, you can notice a small flicker in the light like it wants to turn off but it remains on. So the ignition key is on, ebrake down, the BRAKE light is on. When I start the car, the light shuts off.

A rare occurance also takes place, not 100% sure if they are related... Sometimes, the ABS light fails to turn off in which case, the BRAKE light also fails to turn off. Both lights will sometimes remain on together until the key is turned off. They stay on while I'm driving sometimes.

Here's why I mentioned this... Before I changed my alternator I was having a lot of issues with the alternator, pulley, belts. I changed it all out with new. But the bekts would squeal and my power steering would be hard as hell. Somehow, lifting the ebrake even a notch stopped all squealing and relieved the tension on the steering wheel. However, the BRAKE light being on in this case, my car would start to act strangely, lights would dim and revs would drop. After a long enough time, the dash lights and exterior lights would be very dim and the ABS light would come on. To get my car to run normally again, I would drop the ebrake and it would go back to squealing and hard turning.

Btw, I'm still listening. :D

Somehow, lifting the ebrake even a notch stopped all squealing and relieved the tension on the steering wheel. However, the BRAKE light being on in this case, my car would start to act strangely, lights would dim and revs would drop.

This is a lot more info to ponder. You did check fuse #3 in the Main Fuse box after the alternator incident right?

Did the squealing hard steering start immediately after the new alternator installation.

p.s. there is a reason this is the first instruction in electrical repairs but as they say the cows have already left.1 ) Disconnect the ground terminal from battery.

WRBlueGD2,

The reason the squealing stopped when you pulled up the E-brake handle was because when you did that it killed the charging action of the alternator. The drive belt wasn't fighting the torque of the alternator rotor that happens when the alternator is functioning as it should be.

We need to look at a different diode in the combination meter, or cluster. The one you checked earlier was not the correct one. Please refer to post #39 and check the resistance of the diode that connects between pins B1 and B19 of the meter. There is a another diode directly connected to pin B19 but that one should be ok. The one we need to check is tied to the other end of that diode on B19 and then ties to pin B1.

The reason the squealing stopped when you pulled up the E-brake handle was because when you did that it killed the charging action of the alternator. The drive belt wasn't fighting the torque of the alternator rotor that happens when the alternator is functioning as it should be.
Cougar,

My new belt doesn't squeal and slip when I'm charging the battery. Is squeal and slip normal operation?

This is the second car on the forum where when the 80 amp fuse blows the electrical system is hosed. Maybe having the fuse blow and not burning the car to the ground is a false reward.

The diode you are looking at has a base failure rate of 0.001 Failures per 10^6 Hours. If I gave you a "combination meter" and a 12 volt battery how would you elctrically abuse the diode to where it didn't work?

What? Your new belt doesn't slip and squeal? That is very surprising! LOL.

You seem to have a pretty good understanding of electrical systems Rick-l. I do also and like to get on these forums to help others that are asking for assistance with problems they are having with their vehicles, especially with electrical items since I have a pretty fair understanding of electronics and how vehicle systems work. I also like to learn new things myself and working with others in forums like this has helped me do that.

You also seem to have a know-it-all attitude and are not helping here, at least in my opinion. I have tried to show you what I feel is going on with this problem and you have your own ideas so I will leave you with that. Instead of trying to poke holes in other posters' suggestions that are trying to help someone, I think you ought to focus on trying to give some constructive advice to those that are asking for it.

You also seem to have a know-it-all attitude and are not helping here, at least in my opinion. I have tried to show you what I feel is going on with this problem and you have your own ideas so I will leave you with that. Instead of trying to poke holes in other posters' suggestions that are trying to help someone, I think you ought to focus on trying to give some constructive advice to those that are asking for it.

Cougar,

Au contraire..

When I suggested other measurements or avenues I perceived your replies as “THAT’S STUPID - WHY TRY THAT”.

Now that more vehicle history information is available I would suggest broadening the search past the diode in the cluster.

Let me recap the symptoms to see if I have them correct and if there are any good ideas


Parking brake down the alternator requires enough torque to slip the belt on the crankshaft pulley
Power steering weak due to belt slip
implies a huge electrical load or fault in alternator

Parking brake up the car dies due to a discharged battery in 5 minutes.

Brake light flickers when parking brake is release Key On Engine Off.
should stay on regardless of brake switch position

ABS light sometimes stays on. (pull codes, supply low??)
When changing the alternator there was a fault that blew the 80 amp fusable link

My user name somehow changed in 7 months? Strange... But this is me, I am WRBlueGD2...

I've just recently moved to Florida and I noticed on the way down that when I'd stop and put the e brake on, it would start to cut out in like 5 minutes. The radio would shut off, the lights would dim, if I dropped the e brake, it would spring back to life.

In the past 2 months, I've noticed the battery taking even less time to die, I mean, can't walk away from it with the e brake up and running. Then it got worse. Not related incident, I hit a huge puddle and it got sucked into my intake slightly, ( I have the snorkel delete and a crack in my fender liner :O ). I knew it was just moisture being read by the MAF sensor or something stupid so I let it all dry out and after I drove the car for an hour or so, I got out, pulled the + terminal off for about 30 seconds and popped it back on to clear the code. Got in, turned the key, it wouldn't kick over. The car was completely dead from just pulling the terminal off and putting it back on.

After this incident, I thought it absolutely necessary to replace the factory Subaru battery that has plagued my car for years. I got an Optima D35 (I believe) Yellow Top for a stellar deal, popped it in, the car cranked crazy fast and immediately kicked over. I don't remember the car ever starting like that.

SO, with it being hot as hell, I decided to check out the new battery. I put up the windows, cranked the stereo, AC on full blast and yanked the e brake. I knew the first indicator would be the stereo shutting off and the AC blower slowing down. I actually fell asleep for about 20 minutes and woke up to the stereo and AC blasting, no dimming and no ABS light (When the car starts to die, this light flips on) The car was running just fine with the e brake on and all electrical components going. Just to top it off I put the lights on just for fun, nothing after another 5 minutes.

I've pulled this experiment 3 times today at about 15 minutes each time with absolutely no issue. My question is, is this Optima battery just that beast that it stays charged like that or it holds a charge longer because it's new? Or could it be the battery?

I'm assuming the bad diode killed the last battery to where it wouldn't hold a charge for long at all and that battery was just crap. SO with a little bit of time, the diode can wear down the charge on the Optima and just completely kill that as well correct? I'm currently shopping for a cluster, I'm just going to get an STi cluster but want to make sure it's the cluster 110% before I buy one.

If anyone has any ideas or we are all still on the bad diode in the cluster, let's hear it! Thank you so much guys.

Oops.

Oops again.

I suggest you get a voltmeter and check the voltage of the alternator output again while the E-Brake is in the down position and then in the up position. If things are ok you should see no change in the voltage. If there is a problem still the voltage will drop again like the previous testing showed.

I did notice this morning heading to a lecture today, something that may have answered my own question. I turned the AC to 3 right after getting in the car and starting it. As soon as I dropped the e brake, it felt like it went from 2 to 3. This obviously shows a significant change in current output no? I shouldn't even have to check it with a voltmeter to know that it shouldn't do that? I will check when I can but I need to pick up a voltmeter and get a chance to check it (Moving's a bitch...).

Did you ever go back and undo the Daylight Running Light Mod?

You could try disconnecting the Daylight Running Light Controller and see if that makes a difference to your e-brake discharge symptom.

I didn't do that, no. Where can I locate the DTRL Controller? Is it going to ruin anything else by disconnecting it?

My guess is the car had a turbo timer or an alarm before you got it. It was taken off (quickly and maybe not properly) prior to selling it and something is running a drain when the e brake is on. Just a guess. My e brake is tied in with my turbo timer. I'd pull off the cosmetics around the e brake and see if any suspicious wires are running to it.