Hi , a couple of members have sugested i start a new thread on a little project I'm undertaking at present, so for those that are interested here goes.
As i have just joined the forum i wont bore you with to much detail at this stage, but what i'm building is a copy of the 96-97 LeMan winning Porsche LMP1 WSC car of Joist racing.
it will be powered by an EG33 with a modified WRX gearbox, layout is Mid engined, weight will be approx 600-650 kg.
suspension is custom, inboard front, outboard rear, front uprights and brakes are from a Mk4 RX7 Mazda, rear brakes are R34 Skyline rotors with Willwood 4 pot calipers, tyres are 10" front, 12" rear Hoosier Slicks.
a couple of pics to give you an idea.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/07joest.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/chassis5.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/chassis8.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/chassis6.jpg
a photo bucket site with plenty of pics of of the build so far
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/?start=0
if anybody has any questions , feel free
cheers John

Wow, very deep project. Good luck and keep updating the OP!

The car doesn't even have a shell and it already has a spare tire on it? :lol:

Looks like an awesome (EXPENSIVE) project. Good luck with the build up. Definitely want to see how it turns out.

I would so rock that around chicago.

Very nice.

The car doesn't even have a shell and it already has a spare tire on it?

Mate thats not a spare but the latest tyre technology From dunlop, as my home track is prodominitly RH cnrs, i thought id save myself $600 on a slick .

as for expensive, if it was i wouldnt be building it, to date it owes me $6000 and thats with everything you see in the bucket site including engine and gearbox.
Goal is to have it on the track, racing for around 20g.

"I would so rock that around chicago".
there is one being built in Michigan as we speak, and another in California, not sure what power plant they have decided on as yet though.

glad you all like it
cheers John

finaly got the gearbox and engine bolted together and trial fitted for the first time, its tight but it fits, about 5mm clearance each side between rocker covers and top chassis rail.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P2190001_edited.jpg
will have to modify side diagonals and make them removable to allow access to rear spark plugs.
looking foward over the gearbox. not a lot of room but its in there
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P2190002_edited.jpg
now the fun starts , custom sump, custom headers etc, let the games begin
cheers Kaspa

uh...isn't a mk4 a supra or v dub?! are you sure you didn't mean FC3S or FD3S rx7?

for the purists, over here in NZ the Fc is comonly called a MK 3 and Fd is a MK 4 batmobile.
so front end is FD3S, if your that way inclined
cheers kaspa

mmmk.

how much for you to build me one? lol. looks freakin sweet!

how much for you to build me one? lol. looks freakin sweet!

hi bloke glad you like it, i wont be building another sorry, but i can sell you all the plans, for complete car, including body etc, in CAD on disc
theres two being built state side at present.
cheers Kaspa

wrong forum, this def isnt newbie. sick car.

There seems to be alot of debate on other forums i've looked at as to what gear box will fit onto the EG33, so heres what ive done .
the box in the pic is a 92 legacy 4WD box thats been converted to 2WD and bolts straight up, i also have a 90 legacy 2WD box sitting on the floor and that bolts straight up as well, i also have been informed by a reliable source that all gears etc are interchangable between the 2WD box and the 4WD box, as my 2WD box has late model WRX close ratio gears installed, with early 3.9 final drive LSD.
i will be useing the 2WD box in final assy as it will allow for a rh gear change mechanisim to be fitted a lot easier than the 4Wd box, as it has a shorter rear housing and the bonus ,its a few pound lighter,
as soon as i sort out the new mounts to fit the 2WD box and get it fitted, ill post a pic
cheers Kaspa

WOW, kudos to you and your hand fabricated space frame.
I have made frames and body panels from scratch and it takes hours of work on a jig table, measuring and checking and re-checking for symmetry and square.
What did you use for the frame, chromoly 4130?
Mid-engine RWD, double wishbone w/toe rear and a Pushrod/bell crank front suspension. The only thing missing is the sequential gear box. :)
That is some serious sickness.
Are you making all of the body panels yourself from scale?

Hi Bloke, roll cage and associated braces are chromoly, the main chassis is just MS 1.6mm tube.
and yes i will be making all the body panels from scratch, but at least i have all the profiles on CAD to get cut out, so all i have to do is stich them all together
hopefully the EG33 will push her along at a decent rate of Knots
cheers John

^^^and if it doesnt...BIGGER TURBO:devil:

Awesome job, beautiful work. Keep the updates coming, I can't wait to see that on the road... :)

Beautiful work. I would LOVE to build something like this. The tube frame/cage looks amazing. I will be folowing this build for sure.

Thanks mate i sincerley hope every one else follows it as well, especialy after its finnished:banana:
cheers John

things have been cold wet and miserable down here lately, so havnt managed to get a lot done, and as i cant do much engine wise for a while [lack of funds] i've been consentrating on getting all the panaling done, cockpit is almost finnished just the pasengers seat to do which i hope to get done this week end, as you will notice by the pic, i have made the seats an integral part of the cockpit which will add substantial ridgidity to the area.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/theoffice.jpg

a better veiw of the drivers seat
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/driverseat.jpg

the two levers you see on the center consul are for the front and rear adjustable sway bars, in case your wondering. and before you ask the gear shift will be on the right, mounted on the side panel by the steering wheel.

cheers and thanks for looking
John

heya, awesome. Are you going to make it legal? how are you going to run your shift linkage? I built this and drive it to work everyday it isn't raining, I have been thinking about putting a manual in it but it is a bit of a pain in the ass.

Here are some videos of the car, as well as some pics;
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3088011
http://video.cardomain.com/armigerlives

Hi bloke, although it could be built to street legal specs easily enough , i'm building it as a race only car, its just a toy for an ole man to have some fun with.
glad you like it
cheers John

The weather has finaly changed for the better, the rain has stopped for now but its still bl##dy cold, but braved the elements and got the seats finnished finaly

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P2270001.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P2270002.jpg

just the gearshift left to make and fit

the whole thing has turned out much more roomy and alot more comfortable than i ever would have imagined, i must admitt to being quite pleased with myself.
cheers John

Nice work! :)

thats fantastically awesome!:banana:

Thanks guys appreciate the Kudo's.
Do, havnt heard back , have you made a decision.
cheers John

What do you plan to do in the way of engine management?:cool:

Hi Mate, probaly a LInk pluss, i have used link on my old car and although it was a very early model ECU , as engine got upgraded they [link] were only to happy to upgrade it to suit, and i had exellent dealings with them, and the Bonus of course is their local .
cheers John

A question for the knowlegable masses.
a good freind of mine is seriously considering joining me with my project, and as such we have been discussing all sorts of options etc and talking about the opposition we will be encountering track side.
now i have heard that
1/, the EG 33 shares same piston rod combo as the EJ 22, is this 100% correct
2/, if so can we fit said EJ 22 pistons rods etc to the 33 to lower comp to allow for a turbo set up.
3/ would it be more expediant to go after market forged pistons and better rods, if so where can they be purchased from
and finaly
4/ what sort of numbers can we be expected to acheive without going mega stupid.
it is a race car, but to win first you must finnish, so reliability is of a high priority, no point in having huge hp if you can only last half a race.
look foward to some constructive ideas
cheers John

You can drop EJ22 lower compression piston and any turbo EJ rod in as well...of course asking me I'll say to go with custom pistons, and a longer rod...or do like one customer I have right now and sleeve and stroke it ;)

A reasonable, easy 600whp with a broad tq curve shouldn't be an issue at all! I would actually leave the CR a bit higher and run less boost. To help maintain a flatter tq curve, higher combustion/fuel efficiency and keep stress somewhat minimized on the engine.

Regardless, it will be easy to shatter those factory gears :devil:

I like the project and thanks for sharing!

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

Still cold wet and miserable, god i hate winter, still it means i cant mow the lawn so might as well spend the time in the shed doing proper work.
got the gear shifter all installed, still have to mount the rear of the main rod and fit a uni to transfer angle back to rear of trans but thats the easy bit, just have to get a length of rod and another rose joint and thats it, to
easy

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/Gearshift.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/shifterposition.jpg

The shifter is a copy of a McLaren one, from a M8 CanAm car, very simple and direct, should do the job admerably well.
cheers John

well its been quite a productive weekend , sorted the gearshift out yesterday and today i fixed a problem that has been bugging me for weeks, and that was, with the engine in place with the half shafts square with uprights, i couldnt get No 5 plug out with out either 1/ pulling the engine out, or 2/ making the LHS diagonal removeable, what i wound up doing was moving the whole engine box assy foward 50mm and all problems fixed. its still tight but it dose come out freely. added bonus is it will transfer a little more weight foward, probly not alot but evey little bit helps.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/problemsolved.jpg

it means i will have to fabricate new engine mounts , but was going to have to do that anyway as they differ slightly from the EJ mount pattern.
and as i have changed from a 4wd box to a 2wd box which has a smaller rear housing, [no extra diff] i had to re engineer the rear mount to one at the rear of the box, instead of the two , one on each side as for the 4wd box.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/gearboxmount.jpg

the only concern is i now have approx 4 deg of angle on my half shafts but from what i've heard that shouldn't pose to much of a problem.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/driveshaftangle.jpg

any thoughts
Cheers John

oops....

whats different about the eg33 mounts? where if bolts to the crossmember or how the mounts bolt to the motor? i was under the impression that they bolted right up to normal EJ series crossmembers.

The difference between the two is where they bolt to the engine, the EJ has two bolts and the EG has three, and as mine is solid mounted i am only using the top plate off the mount with a solid fixture welded to it supporting it, instead of the rubber block.
cheers John

This is an amazing build...great job and look forward to more updates.

-Ryan

Thanks Ryan glad you like it, i will endeavour to keep you all updated as work progresses, but at the moment its at the stage where a lot of time is spent, with little to show for it.
cheers John

Very interesting project! I have aspired for some time to build an EG33 powered mid-engined space-frame style race car weighing under 550 kg, but time and money are always an issue for me. I look forward to seeing the progress on your project.

Eventually when I build mine I will keep it naturally aspirated just for the aural experience alone! It's an amazing sounding engine...

Bob

Bob, hi and thanks for the kind words, we have bantered around the Turbo option but i tend to think like you and keep things natural, as a good freind of mine often says " turbos are like silicon T#ts yeh sure there impressive, but you no there not real".
i have had a good long talk to Kev down at Kelford cams, and he beleives with some more compression , some head work and the right cams 300whp is not impossible, and that would make this thing a rocket ship sounds good to me
BTW when you get around to building something give me a call, i have everything for mine on CAD if your interested.
cheers John

I have had a good long talk to Kev down at Kelford cams, and he beleives with some more compression , some head work and the right cams 300whp is not impossible, and that would make this thing a rocket ship sounds good to me
BTW when you get around to building something give me a call, i have everything for mine on CAD if your interested.
cheers John

About 2 years back we shipped some EG33 cams to Kelford from the states. They said there wasn't much they could do with them in terms of aggressive regrinds, but unfortunately billets were not cost-effective to produce either. So we ended up sending them to Web cams, and they welded and re-ground them based on the flow test results from the heads. The inlet ports flow very well in stock form BTW, but the exhaust side needs some work! And they love high valve lift, we're running over 11mm on both sides. If you invest in decent headwork and cams, plus higher compression, you should have no trouble hitting your mark. We got 292 whp from an EG33 with a stock shortblock, custom exhaust, and Autronic management. Shift points at 8200 rpms BTW...

The Web cams are admittedly quite aggressive, but they really woke things up! If you want more details on the exact combination, let me know.

Regards,
Bob

Thanks for that Bob , i will be in touch, re Cams when the time comes.
cheers John

Get a set of any of the forged pistons (wiseco, cp, je whatever, all about the same price.)

As for rods, STI rods are plentiful and plenty strong, and are the same as the stock ej22 rods.

As for rods, STI rods are plentiful and plenty strong, and are the same as the stock ej22 rods
sounds good, what year and model STI do i look for.
cheers John

ECU tune sells complete eg33 Long Blocks with forged internals.
http://www.ecutune.com/svx_longblock.htm

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After much trial and error i can now change gears from the cockpit , its not 100% but it dose work, i used a couple of old uni joints out of a 1/2 inch drive socket set, and they work fine but unfortunately have a little to much side movement in them, so will have to try and source some small steering uni;s from somewhere.
but at least the concept works

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P3130006.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P3130002_edited.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P3130009.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/P3130008_edited.jpg

i might wind up upgrading the control tube to 5/8 or even 3/4 just to give it some more strength and a more positive feel
cheers John

nice work

Have you thought about replacing those with trunnions with needle bearings? IIRC you can pick some up cheap, and coupled with a few bolts and saddle washers you'd be set.

Have you thought about replacing those with trunnions with needle bearings? IIRC you can pick some up cheap,

mate thats exactly what i'm searching for , and if you can tell me where i can get them cheap i'll be indebted to you, as down here they want an arm and both legs for them, because there imported from over there.
i only need two
cheers John

cheers John

That thing needs a PPG FWD Dogbox!

That thing is SICK!

mate thats exactly what i'm searching for , and if you can tell me where i can get them cheap i'll be indebted to you, as down here they want an arm and both legs for them, because there imported from over there.
i only need two
cheers John

cheers John

I believe McMaster has them. Take a look at mcmaster.com page 1152 of the online catalog. If that price is more agreeable to you, but you have trouble getting them then just shout and we'll figure out a way to get some to you.

Thanks for the lead mate , thats exactly what i'm after part no, 2455K23 whats your thoughts , or is there a better option, i looked at pin and block style, but concened about play, thought the needle roller would be a better bet.
cheers John

Thanks for the lead mate , thats exactly what i'm after part no, 2455K23 whats your thoughts , or is there a better option, i looked at pin and block style, but concened about play, thought the needle roller would be a better bet.
cheers John

yep - that's exactly what I was thinking.