I'm looking for a wide band installation steps with pics, I been searching here and in other forums :o but I have not been able to find anything.
Can someone help me?

thanks

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

Good forum to post this in. Electrical and Lighting wouldn't have been right.

It's pretty easy to do IIRC. Tap your gauge for Ill. and power and the connection to the LC1. The manual gives instructions, but there are two wires that you need to solder ring connectors on (preference) or whatever to ground to the chassis. Do that, plus actually threading in the O2 sensor into your DP (if you don't already have a pre-threaded bung, you're going to have to get one welded on) is about all you have to do.

The LC-1 manual is actually pretty decent and explains what to wire and where.

Good forum to post this in. Electrical and Lighting wouldn't have been right.

It's pretty easy to do IIRC. Tap your gauge for Ill. and power and the connection to the LC1. The manual gives instructions, but there are two wires that you need to solder ring connectors on (preference) or whatever to ground to the chassis. Do that, plus actually threading in the O2 sensor into your DP (if you don't already have a pre-threaded bung, you're going to have to get one welded on) is about all you have to do.

The LC-1 manual is actually pretty decent and explains what to wire and where.

Thanks

My only question is where it says:


Find a suitable location under you vehicle where the LC-1 body can be mounted. Using zip ties or other suitable method, fasten the body of the LC-1 device securely to the frame-rails or other mounting points as far away from the head of the exhaust system as the sensor cable allows.


I'm just wondering, where eveybody is placing the body?

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry8310/4.5.0.81 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/107)

Mine is mounted, via zipties, to an existing non-functional bracket around the passenger front fender.

It's pretty much wherever you can secure so that it's not right on top of the turbo/DP and also where the O2 line will reach.

^ +1 to that. I've installed two on my car and a friends sti and they are in that general location.

sry for the thread jack but i've installed 3 gauges so far and i'm a little afraid to get anymore cuz i really don't know where else to splice into to get power. so far i have 1 in the clock harness, and 2 connected to the cig lighter. i would like to get 2 more gauges so does anyone have any recommendations on easy places to splice into for power???

The same places you got power before.... Gauges dont use much power.... You can always run a new fused line from the battery...

To the OP: Mine is mounted with a homemade bracket on the passenger strut tower, where the bracket for the stock BCS goes,

To tallterror: you might look int investing some time and building an auxilary power source system which would run a new power wire into the car and be on a relay to turn on with the ign.

thanks everyone, can some post a pic?

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

I mounted mine inside the cabin near the firewall. As for the wiring issue, just connect everything to the same source. I have all 3 of my gauges and the wideband tapped into the same source, with zero problems.

Here are some pictures and info on my install: http://www.cgbagne.com/wrx/?p=172
It's probably not really what you're looking for, but it may be helpful in some way.

To tallterror: you might look int investing some time and building an auxilary power source system which would run a new power wire into the car and be on a relay to turn on with the ign.

anyone know of a good thread that shows how to do this??

sry for the thread jack but i've installed 3 gauges so far and i'm a little afraid to get anymore cuz i really don't know where else to splice into to get power. so far i have 1 in the clock harness, and 2 connected to the cig lighter. i would like to get 2 more gauges so does anyone have any recommendations on easy places to splice into for power???


Add a relay somewhere under the dash, with its own power/fuse/ground, and tie the trigger into Accessory.

Add a relay somewhere under the dash, with its own power/fuse/ground, and tie the trigger into Accessory.

:lol: you are mod now, yikes. I installed the wideband today but It didn't work correctly, for some reason it didn't run the header calibration and the gauge read 24.1 AFR or something. I think I forgot to ground one of the wires :unamused:, I will check my wiring tomorrow. I will post some pics tomorrow.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

I think my problem is with led and pushbottom connection. The red wire on the led goes to the black cable of the LC-1, the black one the (Cathode) goes with the (Cathode) from the pushbottom and both wires are than connected to the ground header LC-1 blue. Also the the white system ground and the black wire from the DB gauge are connected to the same ground.

So LC-1 blue, white, DB gauge black, led black, pushbottom (Cathode) are connected on the same grounding point!, right?

Now my question, What that hell do I do with the (Anode) from the pushbottom? :unamused: I know that the (Anode) from the led red goes to the black LC-1.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

never mind, I got it

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

for everyone's power issues, buy some add a fuse lines from advance auto... I believe the part number is HHH or HHA. They plug into where your normal fuse goes, lets you add an additional fuse for your added accessory and has a wire coming off of it for the added accessory. They are about 3.50-4.25 a peice.



BTW juanmedina, did you get that working okay? calibrated and all?

If you are running catless you can install the sensor in the secondary O2 location and then run the wires up through the shift boot which lets you locate the LC-1 unit neatly next to the radio.

for everyone's power issues, buy some add a fuse lines from advance auto... I believe the part number is HHH or HHA. They plug into where your normal fuse goes, lets you add an additional fuse for your added accessory and has a wire coming off of it for the added accessory. They are about 3.50-4.25 a peice.



BTW juanmedina, did you get that working okay? calibrated and all?

Yeah I got it to work and it seams calibrated, when I compare it to my O2 AFR from AP is really close to what my DB AFR gauge display.

I currently have and ebay TBE the bung for the wideband is here \/ the LC-1 is gonna be place on that black bracket

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture012.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture013.jpg

I bought a Buschur racing TBE to replace my ebay TBE :devil:, but the bung for the wideband is almost where the catback mates to downpipe

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture009.jpg


http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture010.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture011.jpg

My question is, should I use that location? If you think thats fine where can I get a longer cable? or should tap the downpipe somewhere else?. Can you guys use paint brush to point the location so I know where to get the downpipe tap and get the bung weld it?

thanks

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

My question is, should I use that location? If you think thats fine where can I get a longer cable?

If you are running catless you can install the sensor in the secondary O2 location and then run the wires up through the shift boot which lets you locate the LC-1 unit neatly next to the radio.

I think you missed my post.

I think you missed my post.

:lol: I did, the problem is that I already run the cables through the fire wall and welded everything and I don't feel like do in it again :diaf:. I run the power from cigarrete lighter

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture006-1.jpg


http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture003.jpg

Do you have pics anyways? I would like to see them, maybe I decide to do it your way

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

The pics wouldn't show much. Everything is hidden behind the dash. I like the sleeper look.

One note - The sensor included with the LC-1 must have airflow through its heatshielding. Meaning you cannot crimp or compress the wirharness except for at the plastic junction point. Luckily the rear 02 sensor mount gives just enough cable length for this junction to match up to the shift boot so airflow is unaffected.

Power and grounding are mated to the gauge I have mated to it. I then drilled a hole into the top of the glovebox so that the two stereo plug wires live inside. I went through all this trouble because I don't like electronics outside the car if its possible to protect them.

Your wiring looks scary. I hope you plan to replace that electrical tape because it does soften up with age and will fall off causing shorts.

The pics wouldn't show much. Everything is hidden behind the dash. I like the sleeper look.

One note - The sensor included with the LC-1 must have airflow through its heatshielding. Meaning you cannot crimp or compress the wirharness except for at the plastic junction point. Luckily the rear 02 sensor mount gives just enough cable length for this junction to match up to the shift boot so airflow is unaffected.

Power and grounding are mated to the gauge I have mated to it. I then drilled a hole into the top of the glovebox so that the two stereo plug wires live inside. I went through all this trouble because I don't like electronics outside the car if its possible to protect them.

Your wiring looks scary. I hope you plan to replace that electrical tape because it does soften up with age and will fall off causing shorts.

That was the final product, those are just some progress pictures that I took for write up.
:lol: everything was seal with rubber thingys, It looks almost professional ;).

Anyways how do you like the location of the sensor on EBAY downpipe?, maybe I tap my Buschur downpipe on the same location.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

Here's the way I got it installed:

Unit location
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/tombober/DSC01944.jpg

Though the firewall
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/tombober/DSC01945.jpg

Hiding the connections (pulled them out for pic)
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/tombober/DSC01946.jpg

Power connection
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/tombober/DSC01948.jpg

Switch mounting
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/tombober/DSC01947.jpg

Anyways how do you like the location of the sensor on EBAY downpipe?, maybe I tap my Buschur downpipe on the same location.

Which is the Ebay DP? If its the one of the left of this image
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture009.jpg
then I think thats the factory location of the second 02 sensor.

Heres some pics of my zip tie ghetto-niss.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk276/gt30wrx/IMG_0567.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk276/gt30wrx/IMG_0468.jpg

Which is the Ebay DP? If its the one of the left of this image
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/Picture009.jpg
then I think thats the factory location of the second 02 sensor.

this one is the Buschur downpipe the one in the car is the EBAY downpipe.
If you look closely to the other picture the 02 sensor and wideband bung are on opposite sides.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

hmmm my v2 invidia dp came with two bung holes..

hmmm my v2 invidia dp came with two bung holes..

mine also

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

Be careful using the sensors in the downpipe directly after the turbo. The sensor is designed for a certain heat range. It will significantly shorten sensor life if it gets too hot or it will read wrong. At least the LM-1 systems have some sort of error message when the temp is too high. I'm not sure if the LC-1 has this feature. Being that close to the turbo is probably heating the sensor a lot more than it should be. If you read your manual it explains this. Its probably a good idea to buy their heat sink insert or make a copper sheet metal heat sink like it talks about in the manual.

Be careful using the sensors in the downpipe directly after the turbo. The sensor is designed for a certain heat range. It will significantly shorten sensor life if it gets too hot or it will read wrong. At least the LM-1 systems have some sort of error message when the temp is too high. I'm not sure if the LC-1 has this feature. Being that close to the turbo is probably heating the sensor a lot more than it should be. If you read your manual it explains this. Its probably a good idea to buy their heat sink insert or make a copper sheet metal heat sink like it talks about in the manual.

thanks yeah I read about that on the manual.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/wideband.jpg

If I locate the bung on the blue dot it will just like my current downpipe, If place it on the brown dot it will be like the cobb downpipe. Which one is better? I heard that you should place the bung between 9-3 O'Clock. What that hell those that mean? do they mean on the x-axis, y-axis, z-axis? If is the z-axis 12 O'Clock will point to the front of the car, right?

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

The brown dot is probably ideal. It is 12 o'clock, the blue dot is either 3 or 9 depending on how you look at it. The reason they tell you to not put it at 6 is for condensation concerns. The sensor needs to stay dry. Since the location you have pictured is in a turn in the pipe. There may be some flow separation. There will be less separation at 12 than at 3/9. I'm not sure if this is a major concern with o2 sensors or not but logically it seems it might cause some problems. However at 12(brown) are you going to be hitting the fire wall? So if it will fit without clearance problems put it at 12 o'clock(brown).

The brown dot is probably ideal. It is 12 o'clock, the blue dot is either 3 or 9 depending on how you look at it. The reason they tell you to not put it at 6 is for condensation concerns. The sensor needs to stay dry. Since the location you have pictured is in a turn in the pipe. There may be some flow separation. There will be less separation at 12 than at 3/9. I'm not sure if this is a major concern with o2 sensors or not but logically it seems it might cause some problems. However at 12(brown) are you going to be hitting the fire wall? So if it will fit without clearance problems put it at 12 o'clock(brown).

I have no idea? I have to test fit it

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

I think I would just use the location close to stock o2 sensor.

if it's too close to turbo, it would response better but won't last long since too hot.

I think I would just use the location close to stock o2 sensor.

if it's too close to turbo, it would response better but won't last long since too hot.

The pics wouldn't show much. Everything is hidden behind the dash. I like the sleeper look.

One note - The sensor included with the LC-1 must have airflow through its heatshielding. Meaning you cannot crimp or compress the wirharness except for at the plastic junction point. Luckily the rear 02 sensor mount gives just enough cable length for this junction to match up to the shift boot so airflow is unaffected.

Power and grounding are mated to the gauge I have mated to it. I then drilled a hole into the top of the glovebox so that the two stereo plug wires live inside. I went through all this trouble because I don't like electronics outside the car if its possible to protect them.

Your wiring looks scary. I hope you plan to replace that electrical tape because it does soften up with age and will fall off causing shorts.

I need some pics guys :diaf:, I am using the power from the cigarette lighter so if I run the wires through the shift boot :confused: I will be able to reach the secondary bung sensor. Which one is the secondary o2 sensor the one on the buschur downpipe?

What got me confuse is, how do I run the cable under the car? The cables that I use to connect to my computer are under the shifting thingy. Also, would heat of the downpipe burn the cable and kill the sensor? I heard that the Buschur TBE fit really tight under the car. My catback is ceramic coated but my downpipe is not :unamused:, I am having trouble finding a ceramic coating service around here


http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

I have a question: is the "switch" from the LC1 to TEMPORARY calibrate the sensor or its better to look for a place to leave it permanent?

I think my problem is with led and pushbottom connection. The red wire on the led goes to the black cable of the LC-1, the black one the (Cathode) goes with the (Cathode) from the pushbottom and both wires are than connected to the ground header LC-1 blue. Also the the white system ground and the black wire from the DB gauge are connected to the same ground.

So LC-1 blue, white, DB gauge black, led black, pushbottom (Cathode) are connected on the same grounding point!, right?

Now my question, What that hell do I do with the (Anode) from the pushbottom? :unamused: I know that the (Anode) from the led red goes to the black LC-1.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

Juan, what did you do to solve it? I have the same question... the red wire from the led + the black from the switch goes to the black LC1 but does that goes to the 12v switched current? Cuz the other ones (black led and black switch) are connected to ground :confused::diaf:

Juan, what did you do to solve it? I have the same question... the red wire from the led + the black from the switch goes to the black LC1 but does that goes to the 12v switched current? Cuz the other ones (black led and black switch) are connected to ground :confused::diaf:

I am sorry I can't remember, just thinking about it give me chills :lol:
email Felipe@Innovate-tech.com (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/Felipe@Innovate-tech.com) he was really helpful and....

The best way to calibrate the LC-1 :banana:
1. Remove the sensor from the exhaust. Leaving the car sit over night will not give you a proper calibration.
2. Connect the LC-1 to the computer and launch the LM Programmer software.
3. Click the Reset Calibration button.
4. Exit of the software and power OFF the LC-1.
5. Power on the LC-1 and launch the LogWorks software
6. Verify that the LC-1 does a heater calibration. At the end of the heater calibration do a free air calibration by pressing the calibration button (if installed) or grounding the LC-1's black wire. Confirm that the unit does a calibration in LogWorks (it will say "calibrating" in the screen.)


GL