I just bought some perrin headers and uppipe, I been searching threads on here for people with a similar setup and I notice they have trouble with leaks. So how can I keep mine for leaking? should I use double gaskets?

Also I plan on getting both parts ceramic coated, should I get them coated inside and out?

thanks

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

i wouldnt coat the inside.

I have installed several sets of these parts with no leaking issues.
Of course, I use new OEM gaskets.

With big power setups (425whp+), the Perrin headers can/will leak and even sometimes blow apart at the slip joint. That's the only problem I've ever heard of, and it has a simple solution: weld 'em up. If you're well below that number, the slip joint will hold and carbon up to seal off over time (as is the case with all slip jointed headers).

New OEM gaskets will do fine. I've had poor luck with anything other than OEM, especially where the head/header gasket is concerned.

Only leaks I've had (not crappy gasket related) were the slip joints. I've had them welded up and they've been holding strong for 6 months so far.

I have some leaks on the slip fit joins, I bought some regular screw clamps from AutoZone and I tight them a lot and I can still feel the leak from the slip fit joins. I try to tight the clamps a little more but the broke :unamused:, I am going to order some T-bolt clamps from Perrin to see if it helps. I know many people just weld the slip joins to fix the problem but I was thinking on putting some JB weld on it. Do you think I can use JB weld on the header? My cars AFRs at idle went from 14s to 16s is the leak causing the problem?

Thanks

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

Do you have any idea how hot your header gets... no you cannot use JB-Weld on it.

Do you have any idea how hot your header gets... no you cannot use JB-Weld on it.

I really have no Idea how hot they :o. They are ceramic coated if that helps. So how hot do they get?

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

well your egts are can be from 1200 to say 1700 if that gives you an indication.

The t-bolt clamps will probably work since they are thicker material. But they might eventually crack(break) from the heat

well your egts are can be from 1200 to say 1700 if that gives you an indication.

:unamused: that sucks JB weld can only take 500 and 600 for 10 minutes :lol:. Is there any other heat resistance cold weld that I can use?

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

find someone to just tig weld the joints. Only takes 5 min with cleaning and wiping down the material.

find someone to just tig weld the joints. Only takes 5 min with cleaning and wiping down the material.

Yeah I am going to that tomorrow

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

so are you really going to weld your slip joints because of a problem of leaking Perrin headers that you only heard about...
your headers aren't even leaking yet?

the slip joints are there for a good reason, I wouldn't go welding them

I believe the slip joints reduce pipe expansion/contraction stress and will prevent leaking...

a lot of leaks come from poor fitment issues
check your header pipe gasket surfaces are flat and level first

also check that the turbo position is not off and causing the header pipe to twist and bend when you are tightening the bolts up

tighten all bolts gradually in stages (all bolts should be tightened finger tight then torqued up in 2 stages) this makes everything line-up a lot better
ideally all bolts should tighten down without a lot of force

ceramic coat on the inside would be far better than on the outside.. this will keep the heat inside the header and keep the header pipe temperature lower

the only worry is that ceramic could come off and then damage the turbine blade..
this would all depend on the type/quality of the ceramic coating
if the coating specialist can guarantee it is suitable for this application, it should be a good option

I followed perrins directions exactly and used new gaskets.

I coated all the gaskets with PERMATEX Copper SPRAY-A-GASKET Hi Temp Adhesive Sealant ... then I sprayed a light coat of it on the slip joints just to make them a bit more sticky and promote carbon build up. so far so good. If they ever do become a problem I will probably go to a hydraulic supply shop and buy some Bad-Mutha-F T-bolt clamps and give that try. The heavy duty ones are no joke.

so are you really going to weld your slip joints because of a problem of leaking Perrin headers that you only heard about...
your headers aren't even leaking yet?

the slip joints are there for a good reason, I wouldn't go welding them

I believe the slip joints reduce pipe expansion/contraction stress and will prevent leaking...

a lot of leaks come from poor fitment issues
check your header pipe gasket surfaces are flat and level first

also check that the turbo position is not off and causing the header pipe to twist and bend when you are tightening the bolts up

tighten all bolts gradually in stages (all bolts should be tightened finger tight then torqued up in 2 stages) this makes everything line-up a lot better
ideally all bolts should tighten down without a lot of force

What are you talking about? :huh:. Even some times Perrin will get the headers welded for you.

ceramic coat on the inside would be far better than on the outside.. this will keep the heat inside the header and keep the header pipe temperature lower

the only worry is that ceramic could come off and then damage the turbine blade..
this would all depend on the type/quality of the ceramic coating
if the coating specialist can guarantee it is suitable for this application, it should be a good option

I ask for coating on the outside only but it looks like inside was coated as well. The ceramic flakes will not damage the turbo blades :unamused:.



I followed perrins directions exactly and used new gaskets.

I coated all the gaskets with PERMATEX Copper SPRAY-A-GASKET Hi Temp Adhesive Sealant ... then I sprayed a light coat of it on the slip joints just to make them a bit more sticky and promote carbon build up. so far so good. If they ever do become a problem I will probably go to a hydraulic supply shop and buy some Bad-Mutha-F T-bolt clamps and give that try. The heavy duty ones are no joke.

I didn't follow Perrin instructions, I follow Vishnu instruction. I also use new gaskets. I don't think I have leaks on the gaskets just a massive leak between the slip fit joins.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

just trying to offer some engineering advise
I ask you this, then why did Perrin put slip joints there in the first place??

why do they leak? maybe the tolerances are to sloppy and/or they have a simple one pipe inside the other interface

steel pipe expands and gets longer when it is heated especially with a 800degC+ temperature rise

just trying to offer some engineering advise
I ask you this, then why did Perrin put slip joints there in the first place??

why do they leak? maybe the tolerances are to sloppy and/or they have a simple one pipe inside the other interface

steel pipe expands and gets longer when it is heated especially with a 800degC+ temperature rise

they have slip joins because no car and no header are the same. I just got my header welded :lol:.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/juanmedina/sombreroface1.jpg

how can you tell if the slip joints are leaking? i have a perrin header and up pipe and something just doesnt sound right.... ive just recently replace some of the exhaust gaskets on the downpipe and turbo back and i still have some what of a raspy noice and i didnt know if that could just be the header itself. it more when im at idle and i tap the gas a bit then let off as the revs come down i can hear the raspy noise.... car seems to be boosting fine and still pulling hard.....

how can you tell if the slip joints are leaking? i have a perrin header and up pipe and something just doesnt sound right.... ive just recently replace some of the exhaust gaskets on the downpipe and turbo back and i still have some what of a raspy noice and i didnt know if that could just be the header itself. it more when im at idle and i tap the gas a bit then let off as the revs come down i can hear the raspy noise.... car seems to be boosting fine and still pulling hard.....

I run a leak test at 14psi and block the exhaust with a cap, so I pressurize the whole system (some gurus told me it was not possible :rolleyes:). Then
I sprayed the slip fit joins with soap and water. If you have a leak you will see bubbles.

I am really disappointed with Perrin's customer service, I got a PM from them telling me that they will talk to the technician to see how they can help me, to this day I have not receive a PM. I spend almost 1k on a header and uppipe and they cannot even send a PM :furious:. I will never buy from them again, next time I will buy a Full-Race header.

i went under the car and checked the slip joints and i can feel some air coming from the top of the top slip joint.... i tightened the clamp as tight as i could and still same thing.... the raspy noise i hear tho isnt from that joint it appears to be the header itself that has the raspy slight ticking noise.... gaskets all seem to be good. dont know what to do now.... if i get the header welded ill have to replace all 3 of those gaskets too which sucks


kevin

A tube of copper RTV will work just as well gaskets. For a while I didn't have a single exhaust gasket on my 05 with no leaks other than that stupid slip joint.

A tube of copper RTV will work just as well gaskets. For a while I didn't have a single exhaust gasket on my 05 with no leaks other than that stupid slip joint.

copper RVT is not rated for that kind of heat, and it will just melt away. Don't waste your money on that crap, the copper spray seems to work fine on gaskets.

Get the slip joins welded, make sure they use STN STL filer.

GL

im gonna see if the shop i got to can weld it while still on the car.... as far as the header does should it have some what of a raspy noise when reving it a bit as the rpms come down?

im gonna see if the shop i got to can weld it while still on the car.... as far as the header does should it have some what of a raspy noise when reving it a bit as the rpms come down?

Idk man my car is so loud that I just disregard odd noises most of the times. If you are boosting, spooling and making good power I wouldn't worry

im just stressing out over all this cuz its raspy and sounds weird but its probably just normal and im anal lol.... and now with all my brake issues im pissed.... maybe ill just leave the slip joints alone cuz car seems to be boosting and pulling fine.... i just hope the header is ok