it's freezing and im getting desperate...

blower was working this morning, but didn't work after work (at any level). heater still seems to be working as when i go above 60km or so, i can feel a bit of heat coming out of the vent.

i took the heater blow out and put power to it and it works.

i don't have a manual so i have no idea which fuse is for the motor..

another idea could be the relay (which im still looking for the location..i think it's near/behind the fuse box).




My question is, when i turn the heater on, i hear a click. does that mean its still good? how can i tell if it's good or bad. seems like this is my last hope but i need to know if im going in the right direction.

thx

Relay is probably ok. I would check the fuse first.

You prob have a bad blower resistor. Hope this helps ya.

I assume that the blower motor doesn't work at any speed, including high. If the speed resistors were at fault the motor would work on high most likely except for one possible trouble. There may be a protector in the resistor block and that may be bad and if so you would have to replace the unit.

The relay may be working (clicking) but it is still possible that the switched contacts are not making good contact. You can measure the voltage across the contacts while the blower should be on. If you have more than 0.5 volt across the contacts while the blower should be on then the contacts are bad and you need to replace the relay. You can also jumper the contact wires to see if that helps. I think the relay is up in the left side of the dash.

I'm having the exact same problem. Heater fan will not turn on, fuses are good. The relay clicks when i try the fan. The fan does not work at any speed. Should I just replace the blower resister?

I wouldn't replace anything until you find out what is really causing the trouble. This will mean you have to test some things using at least a test light probe to check for voltage. Use the probe to see if you are getting voltage to motor with the blower speed selector set to high. Check both wires going to the blower motor. If the motor is ok you should see a light turn on when the probe is clipped to ground and check each wire. If that is ok there then the trouble is most likely with the protector inside the resistor block. If that is the case you may want to have the current draw of the blower checked to see if it is excessive. You could also bypass the resistor block with a jumper wire to see if that will get the motor going. That would prove it is bad also.

1996 Impreza 2.2L wagon here. I am having the same problem. Turning the switch for the HVAC fan does nothing. I can hear some relay click, but the fan does not turn on.

I applied direct current to the fan, and the fan works fine. There is no current at the plug for the fan.

Fuses in engine bay and in near the kick panel appear to be fine.

My test light shows a constant current to one of the leads in the plug below.
The pic isn't the best, but this is what I believe is the blower motor relay(the red relay). This is taken basically right behind the diag port, and is located slightly above the fuses inside the car.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3221/relay.jpg (http://img215.imageshack.us/i/relay.jpg/)



The manuals I have aren't that good at all imo. This is the blower motor relay right? I tried a few times unsuccessfully getting the thing out of the car.

Second question is, can anyone give me an accurate description where the power goes at this point? I see that the wire heads into the loom. I know the fan connector has two black wires, so I'm trying to find what's between them. Does it go back to the HVAC control console?

Any help at all would be great! :)

To verify that the red relay is the correct one for the blower you should be able to feel it turn on by touching it and turning on the blower. If it is the correct one you could jumper the two larger wires going to the socket to see if that changes things. The relay contacts may be bad and even though the relay is working it may not be making connection inside. It is just a electric switch.

It would be good to have a test light probe to check and see where power is getting to. They are cheap and can be real handy in situations like this to see what is happening with the circuit wiring.

Thanks Cougar. I'll take another look at it this weekend if I get the chance. I do have a cheap multimeter kicking around somewhere, but since I couldn't find it, I was just using a battery test light at the time.

There is indeed voltage to one of the red wires in the pic, I don't remember which one at the moment. I'll try jumping the terminals this weekend and see what happens.