Starting this for Greg.

Go Greg!

Or, how to ruin a perfectly good STX car;

ej205 to ej255 < - for those doing searches in the conversions forum.

First I'd like to thank Billy Brooks and Jason Wong they've been helping me and have committed to helping me through next year. You guys rock!

This will be part swap, part set-up, part R&D, part how-to. I probably could have put this in conversions or motorsports but thought it best fit projects.

In the effort of free information and transparency, for fellow auto-x enthusiasts, I thought I'd begin a new thread. As many know the car in question has had a good and successful life as a STX car. Although I believe it would have performed admirably next year and beyond, in STX, I was bored with it and ready for a change. I have not worked on the car in over 2 years more than basic maintenance and really missed throwing wrenches so I dived into something different. And putting it in *SP will guaranty that I'll probably have something to constantly wrench on.

I had thought about selling it but I could not bear to part with my car! It has served me well for 7 years and at around 78,000 miles it goes under the knife.

What began as a thought or idea on the drive home from Topeka this September has became a full fledged obsession sitting in my garage. If you're prepping a 350+ ft-lb of tq. engine with a stock 5 speed transmission you must have some level of commitment to the side effects that are bound to come along. :)

I first laid out a basic cost/component structure. Then I laid out a schedule to start around the 1st of November 2008 and get it out of the garage by the end of March 2009. I know I have the advantage of it not being a DD.

All of this begins with owning the service manuals to each year. The internet is your friend. I may seem to go back and forth on some sequences with the project but it will probably be dictated by the availability at the time of funds/parts.

Hopefully this is all KC approved. ;)

So follow along and have fun.

Greg

It's hard to update once the season starts.

For those who didn't tune in when the thread was started: We put a 2.5 out of a 2007 wrx in it , along with the complete wiring harness. Worked through some issues. Threw some diffs in it and some big old tires on it and went racing.

Car's current stats.

Sponsors:
ModeRacing (http://www.moderacing.com/)/PureTuning (http://www.pure-tuning.com/)

Vehicle Weight at Lincoln in May was 2933lbs. With about 3/8 of a tank
Engine:
2007 WRX engine
APS intercooler
Perrinn turbo inlet
K&N Typhoon intake
TGV delete
Grimmspeed 8mm intale spacers
Grimmspeed 3port BCS
Cobb AP tuned by Keith @ PureTuning
~230hp ~300tq

Trans:
2002 wrx Transmission rebuilt w/used gears......:eek: I do live dangerously
MFactory Helical front diff
Cusco 1.5 rs rear
Stock clutch PP and Flywheel

Suspension:
ZZYZX coilovers 12K fronts 6" 11K rears 6"
Stock front sway 17mm I think
24-27mm rear sway......may remove entirely
2006 WRX aluminium front LCA's
All suspension and chassis bushes have been changed.

Brakes:
328mm st 40 fronts w/endless pads
328mm st 20 rears w/hawk hp's

Wheels/Tires:
Rota grids 18x10 +35 bronze
Rota grids 18x9.5 +35 white
Enkei RPF-1'a 17x8 +45 orange
Hoosier A6's 285/30/18
Hoosier wets 245/40/17

Current pics
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/DSC_0330.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/DSC_0301.jpg

2009 Results:

Local: I try not to get to hung up on local events. I usually use them to play or test-n-tune.
Event #1 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e1_web_files/2009_e1_web_index.htm)
Event #2 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e2_web_files/2009_e2_web_index_r1.htm)
Detroit Memorial day event (http://detroit-scca.org/e107/e107_files/downloads/2009_memorial_day_solo_final_pax_index_results.pdf )
Event #3 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e3_web_files/2009_e3_web_index.htm)
Event #4 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e4_web_files/2009_e4_web_index.htm)
Event #5 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e5_web_files/2009_e5_web_index.htm)
Event #6 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e6_web_files/2009_e6_web_index.htm)
Event #7 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e7_web_files/2009_e7_web_index_r1.htm)
Event #8 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e8_web_files/2009_e8_web_index_r4.htm)
Event #9 (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e9_web_files/2009_e9_web_index.htm)
Event #10

National:
Lincoln Pro (http://scca.com/documents/resultfiles/13626_2009%20Lincoln%20ProSolo.pdf)
DC Pro (http://scca.com/documents/resultfiles/Sunday2.pdf)
Toledo Pro (http://scca.com/documents/resultfiles/13630_toledo%20Pro%20final%20results.pdf)

Pro Finale (http://scca.com/documents/resultfiles/13631_FINALE%20FINAL%20RESULTS.pdf)

Solo Nationals (http://scca.com/documents/resultfiles/2009%20Solo%20Nationals%20Final%20Resultsf3.pdf)


Ah the airport. I'm almost going fast, Jason hates the color of these wheels. IDK they're kinda growing on me.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/TEA_may_17_heat_4_55_50.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/TEA_may_17_heat_4_16_16.jpg


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/mccanceBSP-1.jpg

I made the decision to go with a helical front and a 1.5 clutch rear. I will be currently leaving the factory center diff in. In conversations with others they did not necessarily like the performance of the 35/65. It will be using either the top street clutch/pressure plate or the low end H-D version. I see no need to put unneeded load on the gearsets and would rather go through clutches instead. I will also be replacing the flywheel with lighter a street version.

I will be performing these projects myself because no good ESP/WRX build would be complete without an extra transmission and a small shop press. :p

Update 2/16/09
Got around to installing the cusco rear. I pulled the drain plug and got:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0397.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0400.jpg

I'd say I was very lucky last season to not have a failure. Probably even luckier that the pro-finale was rain. ;) There were actually (2) whole teeth and a bunch of shards from the spider gears.

The swap was pretty straight forward. It took about 2 hours to pull it from the car, swap it, and re-install it in the car.

Installed the helical diff this morning.
I already had the trans split that we blew 1st gear in at the dc pro in 2007. It has a new mainshaft, 1st and 2nd.

I made this by buying 2 $10.00 sockets. (1) 50mm and (1) 2.25" cut the top off of the 50 and welded them together.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0409.jpg

It's need for taking off and putting ~ 200 ft lbs on the pinion nut
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0411.jpg

Here's the internals of the trans with the new diff on left
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0412.jpg

I need to pull the bearings off of the old diff. You can use a bearing seperator on the right side one.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0413.jpg

The left side one is kind of recessed so you need to improvise, they're not that tight.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0414.jpg

Then transfer the bearings to the new diff. You could press or drive them on. An old T.O. bearing works great. Right side bearing should stay on the right, left on left.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0416.jpg

Transfer the ring gear and the pieces will be ready to go back in the trans.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0417.jpg

Drop them in......watch the alignment pins on the front mainshaft and pinion bearings.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0418.jpg

Seal and bolt the cases together. No I didn't forget the counterweight thing that hangs on 5th.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0420.jpg

Put the center and tail on and you have a it ready to go back in.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/reassembly/102_0421.jpg

Diffy goodness, I can't wait.

Couple things. I did not check backlash or anything. I think 1st or 2nd gear will blow up before anything else would go wrong. I wasn't concerned about being anal with it. I did replace te front and rear seals, however.

Yeah for the autopsy table and home made trans stand

Now I can drop the trans that's in the car and install this one.........sadbanana - banana

For the beginning of the year it will be using my existing sways which are Whiteline 22mm front and 27mm rear.

About 98% of the suspension bushings were changed long ago so everything’s good there.

It’ll be on zzyzx coil-over’s and more than likely have to play with spring rates.

For STX I was 10k front 12k rear so I would think it needs to be 12k front 14k rear, but I have no idea. I may need to address the lack of front bar. I like a car that has the tendency to spin on the way to the start line.

I will update the post as suspension is installed and adjusted.

So....I've pretty much gotten the suspension installed and I've been going through the process of checking clearance and spring combinations. I obviously had an issue with the fronts, w/8 " springs, w/no spacers. I could run spacers but I'm really trying to keep the car as narrow as possible. I borrowed some 7" springs from a local and tried them on the front, ultimately I need 6" to get the collar above the tire. I had contenplated removing the helper but didn't want to deal with the issues.

So I ordered some swift 12K 6" for the front and I'm hoping there are no coil bind issues. I'm going to move the 7" 14K to the back because they are the appropriate rate I'm looking to start with and I need somtehing a bit shorter on the back to get the collar over the tire. Even though there is no rubbing issue now in the rear, that may change if I have anything more than -.5 camber in the rear.

I'm not entirely sure if I'm on the correct the spring rates to start with. I don't know if they'll be a reason to keep the rear bias the same as an STX car. My thoughts are the car will still have the tendency to understeer, even with the diffs. I would much rather it be tail happy and have to tune it out then the other way around, I guess.

I also put the factory front bar back on and took the 22mm whiteline off. I'm hoping the car immediately swaps ends, big tires and all.:)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0508.jpg

So as I have the car now.
Front is at -2.5 camber with a 1/6" toe out Ride height = 13.75" Track = 71 1/4"
Rear is at -.5 camber with an 1/8" toe out Ride height = 14" Track = 68 5/8"

Track was measured outside of tire to outside of tire

I feel it's a good starting point and can adjust from there, once the car's actually been put to use.

Reserved

*reserved*

Ah, sweet sweet memories of the past......

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n209/rasmusson14/166581096-L.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n209/rasmusson14/166558987-L.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n209/rasmusson14/GregNats.jpg

Good Luck with the build Greg! You really should show the raftors of your garage, half of his car is stored right over head, haha.

I'm so jealous Greg..........
















Your garage is friggin INSULATED!!!!!! :D

Looks like you're having fun! Keep up the good work and let me know if I can be of any help!

Jay

I'm so jealous Greg..........

Your garage is friggin INSULATED!!!!!! :D

Looks like you're having fun! Keep up the good work and let me know if I can be of any help!

Jay

Thanks Jay, I'll be in touch.

I've had to many years of laying in a driveway changing parts in freezing temps to ever go backwards. I have a good size electric unit heater that brings it up to 55* easily, even when it's 0* out.;) About $600.00 in insulation and a couple days work, the rafters are done as well.

Believe me I know I have it good..........:banana: I've been out there since 5:00 am this morning cleaning/organizing <-----disturbes teh wifey less that way :lol:.

Cheers...Greg

Specs on the heater? :lol:

I can't wait to see the car in action!!!! Think it'll be done for the NWOR opener? If our Spinwerkes fit over your brakes, you're welcome to try them....Pat Lipsinic (PatrickL-Top_Dog) is trying to get something going with Rota for a 15x10.

Jay

I can't wait to see the car in action!!!! Think it'll be done for the NWOR opener? If our Spinwerkes fit over your brakes, you're welcome to try them....Pat Lipsinic (PatrickL-Top_Dog) is trying to get something going with Rota for a 15x10.

Jay

It should be ready for tuning mid-march, so it should make the 1st event. How well it's sorted is gonna be another issue.

I saw the group buy and was tempted but there's no way 15's are gonna clear the stoptechs. The rotors are 13 inches as it is:lol:. I want to keep them for the potential reality of getting back into track days.

I did start it yesterday without a glitch and it's solid and smooth past redline. No bad noises or stumbles.......:banana: Which was a big fear of mine.

Specs on the heater? :lol:

ceiling mount 208 v on a 60 amp double pull putting out ~ 25,600 btu's :disco: The garage is 20x24 so that's right there for an insulated space of that size in my region.

I did start it yesterday without a glitch and it's solid and smooth past redline. No bad noises or stumbles.......:banana: Which was a big fear of mine.

Congrats! Glad to hear it fired up and without issue.

Wow. I had no idea what you were up to. I'm suprised the Body/Paint section even exists. :lol: I've seen your fender rolling job, I didn't think you even cared about appearance. Is this going widebody?

Greg,

Looks like a nice winter project.

Darryl

Uber cool project. I'm a bit late to the party, but I'm still here to watch. I send you an email, but this question hasn't hit yet, are you going to use an 05+ steering rack and front crossmember? I know I would if I was doing this.

Also, probably not much I can help with, but let me know if I can.

Can't wait to see the finished product Greg. :devil:

Uber cool project. I'm a bit late to the party, but I'm still here to watch. I send you an email, but this question hasn't hit yet, are you going to use an 05+ steering rack and front crossmember? I know I would if I was doing this.

Also, probably not much I can help with, but let me know if I can.

Good catch.

Can't wait to see the finished product Greg. :devil:

Me either.....Hopefully there is a finished product. :lol:

0* this week and I'm having a hard time finding the ambition to turn the heat on.

Glad to see someone is finally prepping an 02/03 WRX chassis w/ 2.5L for ESP.

Nice work so far, and good luck w/ the rest.

Been wanting to see this for a while... especially w/ 15x10 275/35-15 setup.

Thanks - Jon

Since its so cold outside you could at least snap a few pics of it in the garage......:p

http://www.rallydecals.com/kcpics/kcapproved.jpg

http://www.rallydecals.com/kcpics/kcapproved.jpg

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Good luck Greg...:)..looks like its going to be tasty....oh and don't mind KC...he just shot his wad and is over in the corner cowering..:lol:

Yep..ESP is going to be interesting this year...esp since they opened up the Brakes and cooling....:)

Good luck ..if you need anything....holler....:)

(ESP with a great setup in a WRX and a Good driver is almost a shoe in...;))

Bill

Thanks for the words of encouragement fella's.

It's helpful as I begin to lose the fire during a long winter here. There is so much small, time consuming little crap it's annoying.


Cheers
Greg

Great thread Greg! Looking forward to seeing this in action!!

very nice:cool:

I love this stuff...b/c I can't take the time and effort to do it myself yet, however the end product is SaWEET...

Thanks for your time to post...

:subscribed:

I'm hoping to be able to update over the next week or so. I've been waiting on quite a few things. :)

If all goes well maybe I'll be able to scoot around the neighborhood next week or the week after.

This week I have to re-install the intake, make some mounts for the spearco intercooler, tiddy up some engine bay wiring, install (lca) offset bushings, install suspension (if I recieve it), have tires mounted, double check all fasteners. Still have to change the abs motor......that will be fun, er messy.

After that I can drop the trans and remove the rear diff.

Thanks fo rthe interest...I'l definetly be updating soon.

Greg

Can you talk about why you decided against the 35/65 and what the other people said. And why the 1.5 clutch rear?

Subscribing btw.

Can you talk about why you decided against the 35/65 and what the other people said. And why the 1.5 clutch rear?

Subscribing btw.

The 35/65 has been shown not to reduce front wheel spin. That would be one of the main attributes, for me, of wanting or running one. In addtion to not reducing front wheel spin, lap times dropped by going back to the factory center diff. That and cost are my main reasons for not pursuing it. These results/testing are not mine but someone I trust greatly. They also come from road racing tests. I believe the results would not improve due to auto-x's even quicker transitions. If you couple that with the fact that if you didn't have the correct dyno to tune you with a 35/65 (We do have a mustang locally that would work) it may make the decision easier. Not saying your car needs tuned for a 35/65 but it's something to think about.

The clutch style rear is just a compromise. I do not want decel lock-up that may induce corner entry push. Looking at the others that's what I opted for. I'm not sure it's the best decision but like I said compromise. I like the fact that you can add/reduce clutch plates and go either way you'd like. Once I'm able to do some solid testing I may just do that.

my.02

I have a question for you guys. How do I get the cruise to work through the standard 2002 dash switch?

I'll post the diagrams when I get the chance, but here's the deal. I don't know what model year they put the on/off switch in the end of the stalk but they did. My basic premise was to take the (2) wires that comprise the on/off portion, intercept them at the column, and run them back to the dash swithch.

There are a couple issues. The wires I'm dealing with are the GB and GL both the same for the 2002 and 2007. Both are powered from the same fuse. The difference is that the GL on the 2007 runs to the ecu while on the 2002 it runs to the CC unit.

The GB is constanly powered from the ignition and although the diagram shows 6 wires there is actually only 4 in the 2002 harness. V, OrW, GB, and GL. V and OrW are only for illumination. The way the switch used to work was if pushed in the "indicator" would illuminate until shut off by brake, etc. Now when I push the swith in it does not hold on. The GL wire will only be powered if you keep the switch depressed. The indicator light will never come on. I have not been able to test if it actually works if you hold the switch in yet, my assumption is that it won't.

Another issue is that even though the GB wire runs through the brake and clutch switch, it is not the one that breaks contact once the, brake/clutch, switch is open. Which tells me even if I could get it to work, hitting the brakes, etc would not turn it off. Weird. I have a feeling the 02 switch was powered in another manner as the GL ran through the Integrated Body Unit. I've tested the (2) open terminals to see how they'd react to being powered. Nothing

I could not graph the 2007 stalk into the 2002 wheel.

Why am I doing this. I don't like the 2007 steering wheels and I need the cruise to function so I can use the launch control through the AP. That and if I were to sell the car I want everything to function as though it was built that way, otherwise I'd just put a rocker switch in there.

I'm at a loss. I'll continue to search. Maybe I need to look to the dash portion of the 2007 wiring as that's where the indicator and set lights illuminate.

How does the launch control work on the AP? It's not a 2 step revlimiter is it?

Oh, and try to contact Steve (zzyzx) about the 35/65 center diff if you havent already.

See ya,
Jay
now running on a standalone

How does the launch control work on the AP? It's not a 2 step revlimiter is it?

See ya,
Jay
now running on a standalone

It's all clicks and buzzes to me. :p

I'm not sure how it works technically. It does use the cruise control function to set it however. There is a sequence you go through and then you can adjust your chosen launch rpm via the cruise stalk. Once set it is where it is until, I'd think, until the ecu loses power. Pretty sweet - building boost w/out having to use the bounce method that I actually quite like.

I actually installed the 2007 cluster they sent and guess what. Push switch and cruise light comes on in the cluster. Not having the stupid little light work on the dash switch is no biggie.

Yeah for ghetto engineering. :D

Ooohh.....it may use the cruise solenoid to hold the throttle at a certain point while retarding the timing to maximixe exhaust pressure and heat into the turbonium.....

Kewl stuff!

Jay

cars lookin good!

cars lookin good!

Thanks.

The helical diff is on it's way so maybe I'll have something to do this weekend. I'll post with updates.

Greg

Ooohh.....it may use the cruise solenoid to hold the throttle at a certain point while retarding the timing to maximixe exhaust pressure and heat into the turbonium.....

Kewl stuff!

Jay

I'm not up to date on my launch control, but I thought the V2 AP only did it for factory 2.5L engines with the DBW throttle. They might've updated it to work for cable TB's though.

Saw this car in person the other day. Very impressive work! This will be a beast on any auto-x course.... Road course as well... ;) :)

I gots some questions... :)


Front LSD brand? (you mentioned rear was cusco)
Wheels/tires? (you said no 15x10)
Total weight?
Did you reinstall all the sound deadening stuff inside? (no cheating now! :p j/k)

I was told by Jorge @ P&L that the launch control wasn't worth worrying about. I realize for prosolo it might be worth it, but he stated that over time (like a year or two of consistent usage) that it would eventually lead to a blown engine. I'm yet to run a course outside the central illinois group (my former region) where launch control would have added a benefit.

Oh, and you need one of these:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n230/digitalseance/013.jpg

"Project ESP" license plate. ;)

I gots some questions... :)


Front LSD brand? (you mentioned rear was cusco)
Wheels/tires? (you said no 15x10)
Total weight?
Did you reinstall all the sound deadening stuff inside? (no cheating now! :p j/k)

I was told by Jorge @ P&L that the launch control wasn't worth worrying about. I realize for prosolo it might be worth it, but he stated that over time (like a year or two of consistent usage) that it would eventually lead to a blown engine. I'm yet to run a course outside the central illinois group (my former region) where launch control would have added a benefit.

Oh, and you need one of these:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n230/digitalseance/013.jpg

"Project ESP" license plate. ;)

mfactory
secret <-not really
hopefully still ~ my 2900 STX weight. I'll have to see when I get it on some scales.
It's legal. I never removed any sound deadning stuff:p Will see what ends up being questionable.

I think LC would be advantageous only at pro-solos.

Greg

Nice plate. Mail it to me!!!!!!

Bump for some diff updates post #6

Wow, a very nice walk thru on the diff install. Now when are you going to come over and put my engine in?!?!?! ;)

Better read up on the launch control in SP. 2 step revlimiters are verboten if they act as a traction control device....as much as it pained me to leave the clutch switch wire off my standalone ECU for LC and flat-foot shifting. Thinking about it more.....LC in my car wouldn't necessarily be a traction control device. I don't make enough power to sit and smoke the tires.....but launching would be alot more consistant.

Big ol props for the tranny stand!!!! My peabrain never comes up with ideas like this until after the fact....


Jay

I'll be seeing you at a couple of pro-solos. Look for the slow blue ESP car with red numbers. :p

<-- Just registered for DC

I'll be seeing you at a couple of pro-solos. Look for the slow blue ESP car with red numbers. :p

<-- Just registered for DC

I look forward to meeting you. Did you get my pm awhile back?

I certainly don't think there are any guarantees with what I'm doing. I've been wanting to move for a few years.......so know I can build the car I've wanted for awhile. :cool: And get off those cheap street tires.


Hopefully my gearbox doesn't go boom at an important event. :sadbanana:

Sure did thanks!

ESP is a fun class. IMO, ESP is the near perfect balance of having a fully class prepped car that can win that is also daily driveable without too many sacrifices. ST* leaves out the fun of messing with boost and SM is too hardcore (at the fully prepped level) to be bearable for much long distance driving.

My trans has been fine for 2 years of AX, 1 year with R-comps. I launch it hard (the wheels chirp) but let out the clutch smoothly and evenly. A guy from Buffalo I've AX'd with a few times (sureshot007) uses launch control on his 02 and leaves some stripes and has been fine. He said to just let it out smoothly, but quickly, and you'll be fine. I'm with you on the apprehension of it breaking (especially because this is my only car :lol:).

I don't have diffs, and certainly could use them. We'll see what happens.

Rest assured that the trailer will be available again, should you need it, Keith!


Jay

I didn't see this thread until recently, cool build!

I'll be mildly prepped for ESP this season and will make it out to a few Pros this season. Looking forward to meeting everybody.

I actually installed the 2007 cluster they sent and guess what. Push switch and cruise light comes on in the cluster. Not having the stupid little light work on the dash switch is no biggie.

Yeah for ghetto engineering. :D

Hey Greg, I'm just getting caught up on your thread. FWIW you know how little I drive my car (since I store it winters and rainy days) and the little light burnt out on my dash button last year. You're not alone!

Yeah for Subaru interior quality. :(A burnt out dash light on a very rarely used Cruise button 4 years and 21,xxx miles after the car was new.

I didn't see this thread until recently, cool build!

I'll be mildly prepped for ESP this season and will make it out to a few Pros this season. Looking forward to meeting everybody.

Thanks......look forward to meeting as well. I don't believe a car is ever fully prepped anyways......there's always something else that could be done.

Hey Greg, I'm just getting caught up on your thread. FWIW you know how little I drive my car (since I store it winters and rainy days) and the little light burnt out on my dash button last year. You're not alone!

Yeah for Subaru interior quality. :(A burnt out dash light on a very rarely used Cruise button 4 years and 21,xxx miles after the car was new.

It's more of a by-product of the 2007 wiring harness and how the switch used to function with the 02 harness. The bulbs good it's just no longer powered when "on"

But yeah I can live without it. :)

Greg

It's more of a by-product of the 2007 wiring harness and how the switch used to function with the 02 harness. The bulbs good it's just no longer powered when "on"

But yeah I can live without it. :)

Greg

Well....in that case don't be surprised if next time you're out there fooling with it the bulb turns up missing. Lol. Good luck with everything else

ceiling mount 208 v on a 60 amp double pull putting out ~ 25,600 btu's :disco: The garage is 20x24 so that's right there for an insulated space of that size in my region.

its double POLE! haha not pull

its double POLE! haha not pull

[awkward pause] :huh::huh::huh: ".....thanks Marv......now back to the game...."

its double POLE! haha not pull

I'll have to correct that......:rolleyes: :p

Well I'll be putting in some updates this weekend. I think I'm to the point where I have enough components to be able to assemble and drive it.

I don't have every single component I'd wish to have but enough to make it workable and drive around any short comings.......

I've been in San Diego for the past few days so no real progress the past week or so. Ya, it's a rough life. :lol:

Cheers
Greg

See, I always thought the engineers called it a double pole, while the people who actually do the work call it a double pull....:p

Can't wait to see the car run Greg!!!!

Jay
I'll have to correct that......:rolleyes: :p

Well I'll be putting in some updates this weekend. I think I'm to the point where I have enough components to be able to assemble and drive it.

I don't have every single component I'd wish to have but enough to make it workable and drive around any short comings.......

I've been in San Diego for the past few days so no real progress the past week or so. Ya, it's a rough life. :lol:

Cheers
Greg

Bump for pics of it back on the ground with a very WIDE stance ;)


Its looking good greg, congrats on getting it back on the ground. Hope to have a "ride-a-long" in the near future! :D

Bump for pics of it back on the ground with a very WIDE stance ;)


Its looking good greg, congrats on getting it back on the ground. Hope to have a "ride-a-long" in the near future! :D

OK twist my arm
:banana:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0505.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0504.jpg
:taco:

This is with 15mm spacers on the front. I took them off yesterday to get a better idea of clearence. I also have the rear lateral links pushed way out, so I have romm to bring the backs in as well.

In case anyones interested they're 18x10 rota grids. I got them from a nasioc member. You don't want to know how litle I paid for them. Right now I have 295/30/18 take offs from a solstice driver I gave $100 for, they have about 40 runs on them. I'll probably end up on 285/30/18. I'll see what it drives like first. It may be $benificial$ to buy solstice takeoffs. Solsty' barely wear tires.

On a side note. coming from STX, my 17x8 Enkeis w/dunlops were ~ 46lbs per. The Rotas w/r-comps are ~43 lbs per. So:D:p on weight gain.

No Hellaflush sticker? :lol:

Please excuse me while I go change my shorts...... :)

Greg....the car certainly appears to be "right"......I have no doubt that you'll be grinning from ear to ear when you get that biyatch out on course!!!!

Jay

Wow, nice work Greg! I knew you were doing an ESP build but had no idea it was up to this level. Sweet! :D

All that Greg needs now, is a black cape and a red lightsabre to "fulfill his destiny"!!!!!

Jay

Awesome, that's a lot of tire past the fender, LOL.

My current setup is 275/40-17 A6 on 17x8.5" SSRs and that weights 38.4lbs per corner. My 17x8 Enkies w/ RE-01Rs was ~44lbs per corner.

I put a deposit on 18x10 Rotas SVN Rs +30 offset. They might come in May. I didn't know that there were used 18x10s on the market.

What's the offset on those grids?

Wow... You guys will spank me with my friendly little 245's. :lol: Though, word has it I just got a job and will be able to up those wheels a bit!

Awesome, that's a lot of tire past the fender, LOL.

My current setup is 275/40-17 A6 on 17x8.5" SSRs and that weights 38.4lbs per corner. My 17x8 Enkies w/ RE-01Rs was ~44lbs per corner.

I put a deposit on 18x10 Rotas SVN Rs +30 offset. They might come in May. I didn't know that there were used 18x10s on the market.

What's the offset on those grids?

There were only 2 sets in the country at the time, I think. I bought 1 set. I got lucky. They are +35

There is alot less tire out of the fender since I removed the 15mm spacers. I still have the alignment to do and I think I'm going to be adding a bit of
- camber as they appear to be standing straight up at the moment. My hope is they'll be nicely tucked in. I hope to have to do very little fender modification.

A little update. I went for a 1.5 mile putt yesterday, I never even went into
3rd. Every little noise made me nervous and I'm glad nothing fell off. :lol:
Couple things to note:

My abs light is on. I don't know why yet. I didn't think I'd need to change tone rings or wheel speed sensors with the 2007 wrx abs motor so I'll have to figure it out. For the first time ever I tried a one man bleeder vacuum. Didn't work for me.....so I had my neighbor help out. Even after I went around them again I still have a soft pedal so I need to bleed again. I don't think the abs light would be on for that reason though.

The rear diff whines....alot under acceleration. I don't know if somethings borked, misaligned, or if it's just that way.

The car pulls very nice though.:disco: Until I get comfortable and confident that the car's not going to explode every time I take it somewhere I'm going to be nervous with it.

Thanks for the comments guys.

Greg

The rear diff whines....alot under acceleration. I don't know if somethings borked, misaligned, or if it's just that way.
You didn't change gear ratios or anything, right? What about diff bushings that might transmit more NVH? If you're really nervous, drain the fluid and have a look for excess shavings.

Jay

You didn't change gear ratios or anything, right? What about diff bushings that might transmit more NVH? If you're really nervous, drain the fluid and have a look for excess shavings.

Jay

Diff bushings, gear ratios are the same as before.

Thought it may be a by-product of it not being broken in...clutch style. IDK

Or I need to pull it apart and check backlash and pre-load, before I break something $$$$$

S00per d00per c00l! I'm sure that thing is going to be a hoot to drive once you get it all squared away. I'll enjoy watching your runs this year.

The ABS codes are quite easy to pull using the diagnostic connect under the dash. Should tell you exactly what the issue is.

-Duncan

The ABS codes are quite easy to pull using the diagnostic connect under the dash. Should tell you exactly what the issue is.

-Duncan

I was having a hard time finding it. I have a complete 2007 wiring harness in the car if that makes a difference.

I'd hoped there'd be one, I'll look again.

The FSM procedures are different 2002, 2007. The former says use the data link wires, the latter says Subaru Select Monitor.

Thanks, though Dunk........I'm jealous of your car. Maybe someday when mine grows up.:)

Diff bushings, gear ratios are the same as before.

Thought it may be a by-product of it not being broken in...clutch style. IDK

Or I need to pull it apart and check backlash and pre-load, before I break something $$$$$
This gives me another reason to stop by this saturday......If you have a dial indicator at the house, we can try to get a reading through the drain hole.

Jay

This gives me another reason to stop by this saturday......If you have a dial indicator at the house, we can try to get a reading through the drain hole.

Jay

No dial indicator. I may pick one up though. I have 2 things to do today. Call Nukabe to ask them about the diff noise and their thoughts and order new bearings/shims from Subaru.

I'll take it back apart and go through the process to rule that out as an issue.


Oh yeah, I have a tune scheduled for March 27th.....woot. That makes me have to bust the diff apart, before then.

Oh yeah, I have a tune scheduled for March 27th.....woot. That makes me have to bust the diff apart, before then.

What time and at Pure Tuning?

^^^ Yeah, no doubt! Does Pure Tuning have an AWD dyno? If so, I may have to schedule an appointment as well......See if I can get EJ25 power out of this little EJ22!!!

Yes, they have an AWD mustang dyno.

What time and at Pure Tuning?

Yep, Pure Tuning. I don't really have a time. I'm taking the day off so Keith can just have it as long as he needs it.

I'm still waiting on that Grimmspeed boost solenoid (I think it's legal for *SP). So if I don't have it before then I'll need to cancel.

My little thread is taking off........:banana:

I'm still waiting on that Grimmspeed boost solenoid (I think it's legal for *SP).

Hmmm... I haven't really dug into the *SP rules enough to know, but it would surprise me at all if it was.

Hmmm... I haven't really dug into the *SP rules enough to know, but it would surprise me at all if it was.

15.10 C 4. f) :disco:

Greg...I must say...it looks mean, aggressive, and down to the business at hand...:)In otherwords....Great..:)....have you had a chance to put it on the scales yet????

I like what you did....ESP will be great to watch with you and Karen running the 'right' drivetrain..;)...you should see about 260 hp...and well over 300 torque for your beast...can't wait till you get it sorted..and it starts putting on camaros, firebirds, and mustangs...as part of the fighter "Kills" lol...

enjoy the off corner torque...:)

You should sign up at forced4s.com . . . It is a somewhat local (Cleveland) forced induction car club that we started. We just started it in November, but I would love to see someone with your background on there.

All I can say about your wheels/tires is :banana: Looks nasty and god how that thing is going to be on the track!!! I`m going to need a ride sometime this summer maybe!!!?

Greg...I must say...it looks mean, aggressive, and down to the business at hand...:)In otherwords....Great..:)....have you had a chance to put it on the scales yet????

I like what you did....ESP will be great to watch with you and Karen running the 'right' drivetrain..;)...you should see about 260 hp...and well over 300 torque for your beast...can't wait till you get it sorted..and it starts putting on camaros, firebirds, and mustangs...as part of the fighter "Kills" lol...

enjoy the off corner torque...:)

Thanks.....:D No scales yet but as I said I can only hope for my STX weight of 2900 flat. There are things I could do to reduce that, but $$$$$$$$$

I had a trick up my sleeve that the latest fastrack knocked out. :( Oh,well I'll have to fight them with a turbo that falls on it's face at ~ 4000 rpms. I think it's doable.

You should sign up at forced4s.com . . . It is a somewhat local (Cleveland) forced induction car club that we started. We just started it in November, but I would love to see someone with your background on there.

All I can say about your wheels/tires is :banana: Looks nasty and god how that thing is going to be on the track!!! I`m going to need a ride sometime this summer maybe!!!?

Another forum..... IDK. But you're welcome for a ride along anytime. I assume I'll be seeing you at some Toledo events.

Another forum..... IDK. But you're welcome for a ride along anytime. I assume I'll be seeing you at some Toledo events.
Ya I want to make it to a couple up that way this summer! You going to be out our way at all?

Ya I want to make it to a couple up that way this summer! You going to be out our way at all?

I'm sorry but it's doubtful this year. I run a pretty full plate with all the nwor locals and my 3 or 4 national events + nationals. I used to do 25 events + a year, I've toned that down to keep the peace at home.:o I'm lucky to have awesome sites in the backyard.

Verdict is in on the diff! Pull it and double check everything. :( This will be my Friday night project.

^^^ I can lend a hand reinstalling saturday if needed. I already googled directions to your place....... :)

Pure Tuning have any rates posted online that you know of? Lemme guess......search newb!!!

Jay

^^^ I can lend a hand reinstalling saturday if needed. I already googled directions to your place....... :)

Pure Tuning have any rates posted online that you know of? Lemme guess......search newb!!!

Jay

http://www.pure-tuning.com/pages/services/tuning.htm Newb.

I would hope it's either back in or ready to go back in by then. I experienced eye never hurts though.

My new bearings, o-rings and shims will be in Thursday.......

edit:

Cool...... we'll see how it goes! Thanks for the link, they're less expensive than Meade and a bit closer to me as well.....and they appear to have Link experience. win-win-win!!!

Now to pry some fundage outta the codriver..... ;)
Jay

I had a trick up my sleeve that the latest fastrack knocked out. :(

Curious what you had in mind. Shoot me a PM?

Awesome, that's a lot of tire past the fender, LOL.

My current setup is 275/40-17 A6 on 17x8.5" SSRs and that weights 38.4lbs per corner. My 17x8 Enkies w/ RE-01Rs was ~44lbs per corner.

I put a deposit on 18x10 Rotas SVN Rs +30 offset. They might come in May. I didn't know that there were used 18x10s on the market.

What's the offset on those grids?

I may be thinking of this backwards, but. With a +35 offset, and no spacers, I only have about 1/4" between the shock collar and the tire in the rear. In the front I have ~ 7/16" to the shock body because the collar sits above the tire.

This is with zzyzx's which may have a bit more clearence do to the lower mounts. (he made different style mounts I'm not sure which style I have) They could be identical to stock. :shrug:

I would think you may end up with spacers, especially in the back. Perhaps you already know this.

275/40/17 tires on a 17x8.5 SSR? hmm pictures??

275/40/17 tires on a 17x8.5 SSR? hmm pictures??

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee160/dodwrx/solo/IMG_1604.jpg

Rears tires (sometimes) rubbed on the inside fender well and trailing arm. Rear fenders are rolled. Picture of rubbage is in that album. I was running RCE Tarmac 2s w/ 500lb/in front 400lb/in rear with stock swaybars.

I may be thinking of this backwards, but. With a +35 offset, and no spacers, I only have about 1/4" between the shock collar and the tire in the rear. In the front I have ~ 7/16" to the shock body because the collar sits above the tire.

This is with zzyzx's which may have a bit more clearence do to the lower mounts. (he made different style mounts I'm not sure which style I have) They could be identical to stock. :shrug:

I would think you may end up with spacers, especially in the back. Perhaps you already know this.

Good to know. I had inside strut clearance issues w/ my 17x8.5" +48 SSRs w/ 275 A6. In the front I was rubbing against the collar, so I had to dial max positive camber using the factory bolt and get all of my negative camber through the plates. In the rear the tire would rub the trailing arm under deflection otherwise I had a few mm.

I have RCE Tarmac 2s. I've heard the zzyzx's have the best clearance due to their design. I was eyeing their EM Sport coilovers but I didn't get in on the 1st run. I imagine you have their competition coilovers?

I thought lower offset moved the wheel out and away from the struts. I hope so because that's one of the reasons I went with the +30 SVN Rs over the +35 DPTs. :)

I need to get my ARP wheel studs installed so I can run spacers if required. Installation is a bit beyond my mechanical skills. :(

Yes, I have the competition version of the zzyzx's.

The front studs are very, very easy to change. An impact makes it easier (less ratchet turning) to draw the new ones in, but is not necessary. The rears take a bit more time. I think I'm going to change my rears maybe I'll do the step by step in this thread.

I'll concede and say you're right on the offset. +30 should push the inside of the wheel further away from the chassis than +35. I'm sure a trip to the tire and wheel forum would clear it up, for me at least. :)

You may not need longer studs for any spacer under 10mm.

Greg

The front studs are very, very easy to change. An impact makes it easier (less ratchet turning) to draw the new ones in, but is not necessary. The rears take a bit more time. I think I'm going to change my rears maybe I'll do the step by step in this thread.

That would be cool. I have 75K miles on the car. I wonder how my bearings are doing. So far I'm on the original clutch and bearings w/ no problems.


I'll concede and say you're right on the offset. +30 should push the inside of the wheel further away from the chassis than +35. I'm sure a trip to the tire and wheel forum would clear it up, for me at least. :)
I think so, I'll double check. Stock offset is for the 17x7 wheel was +55.


You may not need longer studs for any spacer under 10mm.


With a 5mm spacer I only got something like 6-7? turns of engagement. I did not feel comfortable running it.

A big thanks to storm for dropping by today.

It appears the diff was fine and I have some crazy, weird boost related noise. I'm not sure if it's a leak or perhaps the turbo itself.

I guess we'll see.

I swear that the noise was not me holding back the inner child whenever the motor entered boost......I swear!

Someone didn't want to remove the hood and strap a passenger to the roof to watch for a source of the noise......but it was a little chilly for that anyway...... :) I give it 5-10minutes on the rollers and the source will be found. I hope it's a cheap fix!!!

My impressions: Good god this thing is going to be awesome!!! Greg's done an excellent job on the install and overall build thus far. I approve with 2 thumbs up!! :D

Jay

. The rears take a bit more time. I think I'm going to change my rears maybe I'll do the step by step in this thread.

Already done :)

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/replace_rear_wheel_stud-t4247.html?t=4247

In an effort to rule out the large TMIC I put the factory one on this morning. I haven't driven it yet so I'm not sure. I hope it's the Y-pipe or BOV that was leaking. The factory one will also make it easier to work around when it's on the dyno, in case it's still there when I go for a drive later.


We'll see.

^^^ Fingers crossed for you!

Jay

Try this:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1703459

That's how I tested my TMIC/Ypipe for leaks, and then everything post turbo. I found that hooking up a tester pre turbo is a PITA. Things that shouldn't see pressure do, you need to block off a lot of stuff, you can't see the Y-pipe, etc. I found several leaks using that setup.

Try this:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1703459

That's how I tested my TMIC/Ypipe for leaks, and then everything post turbo. I found that hooking up a tester pre turbo is a PITA. Things that shouldn't see pressure do, you need to block off a lot of stuff, you can't see the Y-pipe, etc. I found several leaks using that setup.

Thanks Mechie. I had seen that before, because I'm an e-stalker......:lol: :banana: I thought it would be helpful. Where did you pick up the bolt in stems? Local Auto parts store?

I didn't get a chance to take it out last night. Tonight I will.

My dad actually bought those stems for me 7 years ago when I was a college freshman making a potato cannon. :lol: I think you can just get them at an auto parts store. They weren't anything special.

Just read through. Looking good.

Well it appears I had more than a few problems. I guess that can be expected.

I went for a drive last night with the factory intercooler and it appears it was absent of the noise. I'm suspecting the BOV flange area so I reinstalled the APS unit last night and used RTV instead of the factory style gasket I had on there.

Issue one:
Some serious tire clearence issues. I corrected temporarily with spacers I had. I think the long term is to get shorter springs as I'm not interested in making the car any wider than absolutely necassary.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0509.jpg

Issue two:
Weird brake fade soft pedal issue. When I went for a drive the left front started making noise so I pulled it apart and found.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0510.jpg

Hmmm active, varying, pad thickness. That could cause the pedal to act funky:lol:. Luckily I had some hawk pads on the shelf. I prefer the bobcats, I'll have to order another set. This could also be the cause of what Billy and I was feeling at natioanls.

Went out for a drive brakes are solid and once again I can put the car on it's nose if I choose too.

So tonight I hope that what appears to be a boost leak is gone. Crossing fingers on the BOV.

Tomorrow I'm going to drive to the subbie dealer and have the service manager pull the ABS codes. He states that there's a potential that I'll have to change the tone rings/sensors. IDK the rear tones are the same part # 2002-2007. The rear sensors are the same part # 2002-2007. It appears the front sensors a different part # each succesive year after 2005. I have some 2007 sensors so maybe I'll change the fronts and see if that clears it out.

The only part I'm unsure of is the front tone rings. Being that they are part of the axle assembly, if you look them up you're bound to get a different part # because of the internal/external axle change.

I did move the tune to 9:00 a.m. April 3rd so woot for that. The season is quickly approaching and I want the car solid before then so I only have to focus on suspension/alignment/driving.:D

Cheers, thanks for reading
Greg

Sucks to have the issues, but sounds like you're all over fixing them...hopefully in time.

OOOOOOoooooo, Hoosiers went on a slight weight reduction program I see! :eek: I wondered how those were not rubbing. Hope there wasn't any damage to the sidewalls.


and for the sake of humor........how many times did you bleed the brakes? ;)



Glad to see you are getting everything sorted out.

and for the sake of humor........how many times did you bleed the brakes? ;)

Yeah, yeah, yeah. How was I to know the inner left front pad was non-existent.:o I don't technically need abs, but I do like it, especially in the rain.

No real damage to the tires thankfully, just slightly lighter.

I think it's because I checked clearence and then changed camber w/out checking again.

Come on. You know I'm not that bright.:lol::banana:

I'm beginning to stress. I guess I need to keep it in perspective.
1. I've literally dis-assembled/reassembled the car.
2. Some people that started projects in the fall are still working on shells and will miss part of the season. :(

I was specifically looking for tiresmoke too......how odd is that? I'm glad that the other noise was a faulty seal. That saves time in digging for the cause!!!! Ya think those pads were borked prior to our little test drive? Guess they needed replacing anywho..... Get the ABS codes sorted and the big IC sealed up! Not sure what to tell ya about the wheels. You can try to pull the hub out at the bottom of the strut and slide the plates back in....but it didn't look like you have too much room up top.

This is all progress.....fairly smooth progress at that. Just think that I spun a bearing at a T&T 2 weeks before nationals last year......your pace is going just fine!

Jay

Well it appears the boost leak was nothing more than the factory gasket acting like a reed in a flute, on the crappy casting of the APS top mount.:)

I know you like that description. I can say these things because I've been around musicians.:lol:

Up next.
Change front wheel speed sensors.
Order (4) 6" springs and (4) 7" spring sets

Actually I know a local who has some so I'm gonna see what he has available first.

Jay, I definetly think the pad was borked prior to our test drive. I actually think the piece shifted as I stepped on the brake leaving the driveway, which is why I was thought. "well that was weird"

I am really-really happy to know that the noise was the gasket singing in boost......No more gaskets from Jethro Tull....... a'ight??? :)

You'll make the first event, and I might have to come out and join y'all!!!

Jay

No real updates. Still chasing the abs thing, but got some good advice in the conversions forum.:)

I did however uncat my Cobb DP last night, that was fun.:rolleyes:
Not optimal I know but I'm not buying another one.

I also installed stiffer springs. 600 fr 700 rr, so we'll see about that. I still need to order some shorter ones, however, to correct the front track.

So on the horizon. There's a TNT in Peru, IN. at Grissom the 24 & 25th hosted by Detroit. Our season opener is the 26th. and then the following weekend is the pro-solo in Lincoln.

I'm really looking forward to the TNT. I'll actually be able to see what the new TQ, diffs, and r-comps are all about. I'm sure it will be a completely different car.

I'll probably have to get used to this :banana: when the car works.

What length springs do you need? I have some 2.5x8x600 Eibach coils in the garage.....

Jay

What length springs do you need? I have some 2.5x8x600 Eibach coils in the garage.....

Jay

6 or 7 ". There's a local with some I've just been too lazy to go see what rates he has.

So on the horizon. There's a TNT in Peru, IN. at Grissom the 24 & 25th hosted by Detroit. Our season opener is the 26th. and then the following weekend is the pro-solo in Lincoln.

Are you heading out to the Pro in Lincoln? I'm curious to know what you think of the surface compared to Toledo. I can't make the drive out to Lincoln, so I'm trying to use Toledo as my measuring stick.

I'm sure you'll have that little buggy worked out and fast as hell in no time.

That's the plan right now. I can tell you by description alone Lincoln sounds exactly like Toledo.

Low grip, high tire wear, void of dips/elevation changes.

Should be fun.

I can also tell you my car never, ever, ever..........ever, rotated at Toledo, in stx trim. For as fast (slippery) as my car was/is, last year at the pro I was seriously comteplating running + camber in the rear just so it would turn. :furious:

That one aspect is something I will work on with each Toledo local we have. Getting a fat, transition challenged car to turn well on concrete.

That was with your "spin on the way to the start line" setup? :p Well, I'm glad I am going to Toledo now.

You're welcome to mine if they can help you out. They're sitting in a box, destined for the DSP car, should it ever compete again......:rolleyes:

Jay
6 or 7 ". There's a local with some I've just been too lazy to go see what rates he has.

we want more pics greg

So a bit of a run down.

ABS issue: it appears that I may have been sent an abs motor for an auto. There is one latent code that will not clear (47) improper can communication. The manual procedure says I either have a dccd or a tcm and to start there. I have neither. So I'll do a bit of digging and I'm sure I'll end up swapping out the motor.:(

The tune: It went alright but what it did flush out is that I have an underlying mechanical issue with the car. Could be a damaged sensor/s, could be the air pump delete, IDK.

Basically, it seems, when the car gets to a certain temperature it will begin to hunt for idle, sometimes stall, and then when you restart it it's pig rich and stumbling all over. It will always restart and if you let it cool down it will be fine until you drive it, warm it up, again. This happens on any map you throw in it.

IDK I'm kinda stumped, pissed at the moment. It could be one thing or a few things in conjunction. I'll start by grounding out the air pump connectors (even though I think that's a STi thing) It has been said that the lack of grounds from removing the air pump solenoids can cause the ecu to flake out.

But that's a cheap item to do and I'll do it before I move on to buying $300.00 worth of engine sensors. Some have said that engines from damaged vehicles can have sensor problems, I guess I won't discount it.

Could also be a ground issue I suppose.

Well that's where I'm at 2 weeks or so to the first event and I'm still knocking out gremlins.:)

I also need to do some data logging as that would probably show more than anything if I can replicate the condition.

You didn't expect it to be that easy did you? :D

Good luck getting those gremlins sorted out. No fun having your car *almost* there with the season getting ready to start.

You didn't expect it to be that easy did you? :D

Yes, I did. I may have stumbled on to something. I posted this in our local thread.


It appears the abs motor I have is out of a STi which thinks I have a dccd.

My idle/potential sensor issue. I was trying to logically go through what I've done, swapped, touched, etc. In an effort to eliminate potential culprits. As we know I've touched just about everything on the car, some more intimately than others.:huh:

I remembered when both my engine where on engine stands I swapped front o2 sensors. Logic being I had just bought the one in the 2.0 and didn't want to let it go.

Well in cruising around part #'s earlier I realized that 2.5's and 2.0's are different o2 sensors or at least by part number appear to be.

The issue has some ties to a suspect o2 but I didn't because it's brand new. Not thinking it's the wrong part. Car warms up comes out of CL starts reading the front o2 for it's calculation and bingo bango freaks out. <- that may not be entirely accurate but you get the point.

Thoughts?

Well between changing the front o2 sensor, the crank position sensor, and cleaning the maf. It seems the idle hunt and bucking between shifts is gone.

I would like to think it was one of the (2) sensors that corrected it but in all reality I probably spent a couple hundred bucks to spray my 1 year old maf :rolleyes:. IDK. It never hurts to have a spare o2 with you.

We went out and did some datalogging and a bit of road tuning last night. One of the main issues of the car running bad was it was throwing the afr's around. With that, apparently, gone I will be handing it back over to Pure Tuning to spend some more time with it on the dyno. I obviously want everything possible rung out of it.

I actually asked that it spin to 12,000,000 rpm's and reach full boost (800 psi) in neutral. :lol:

Now I can work on suspension, fender rolling, etc.:banana:

Was the MAF visibly dirty? Maybe too much oil in that K&N. Either way, glad you got it and hope the tune goes better this time! ;)

Sweet, nice you got some of the bugs out. Still waiting in anticipation at the final product and how it does on course.

Was the MAF visibly dirty? Maybe too much oil in that K&N. Either way, glad you got it and hope the tune goes better this time! ;)

Not so much. It did sit (uncovered) in the garage all winter as I cut, ground, and generally dirtied the place up. K&N is dry.

I'm thinking front o2 but that's what I get for not doing things systematically as I have 0 patience.

Glad to hear you're well on the path to getting it sorted out. I'm curious to see how the 800 psi works out.

subscribed!

So here's a run down.

Car is back over a Pure Tuning as of last night. Keith's going to work on it over the weekend......spend some more time on the dyno with it.

I have some 6" 12K springs for the front on the way. When I get those I'll move the 7" 14K to the back. That should resolve spring/tire issues. I'm sure the front tires will quickly remove fender liners.

Silverline Automotive, where I got the engine assembly and abs pump from, is supposed to be sending me a 07 wrx abs pump.

Since I won't get the car back till Monday next week is going to be very busy. I still have to get the trailer to the house and give it the once over.

So here's a run down.

I'm sure the front tires will quickly remove fender liners.


More of your strategorie at work, weight reduction au natural! ;)

Thanks for the link to this thread Greg. Just caught up on all I missed over the last couple of months. This car will be awesome. I can't wait to see you in action this season!!!

I expect a full report monday morning.......I won't make it out to the chrysler plant to see for myself.....

If your launch control works anything like mine does.....you're going to need a wider helmet to contain the grin! :D
Jay

I expect a full report monday morning.......I won't make it out to the chrysler plant to see for myself.....

If your launch control works anything like mine does.....you're going to need a wider helmet to contain the grin! :D
Jay

I think the bigger bonus may be we have a full 2 day TNT in Peru. I'll make a good dent in getting it sorted. Even before the season opener.:lol:

I expect a full report monday morning.......I won't make it out to the chrysler plant to see for myself.....

If your launch control works anything like mine does.....you're going to need a wider helmet to contain the grin! :D
Jay

You were exactly right Jay. I couldn't contain my smile for the first 12 runs or so. Not because of the LC however.:D

It's amazing to have to refrain from inducing on throttle oversteer.:eek: Coming from ST* I may have to forget the way I drove and the car set up I used. There are some parallels but the car is very, very different.

First few runs were extremly loose.
Reduce rear air pressure, still loose
Remove some toe out, still loose
Lower ride height, front and rear, by 1/2" We were going to do this, do 3 runs and the add - rear camber. Well unfortunately the only set of tires, the used tires, are now corded.:( TNT over.

The only snafu was Jason coming back with the steering wheel 180* off. :confused: I say the only thing it could be is it slipped in the u-joint. I crawled under the car and both the upper and lower bolts were gone from the u-joint. :lol: Luckily I brought a hardware box and had 2 bolts that worked.

Other than that we have a very good baseline and although having all day tomorrow to run it would be extremely useful. We'll just have to deal with it and adjust as we can.

The car performed amazingly overall and I couldn't be more please.
One word............................weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeee:banana::taco: Bring on a dry Lincoln!

That does sounds fun! mumble mumble... Stupid street tires... mumble mumble. So far what do you think of the setup? Much does the setup differ from an STX setup?

That does sounds fun! mumble mumble... Stupid street tires... mumble mumble. So far what do you think of the setup? Much does the setup differ from an STX setup?

I think race tyres are going to be an extremely expensive hobby. I naively thought the tires I bought would last for a 3 day weekend. I guess you could use a brand new set up at a 2 day TNT if you aren't careful. :(

I ran on the same set of Dunlops april-august last year, all events, with some street driving.:lol: Something to be said for the ST classes.

The car feels quite a bit different from STX. It's pretty torquey and the diffs work very, very nice. I've never driven on r-comps until yesterday and I'm truly stunned by the turn-in and corner speed. The car just has some high speed oversteer and I think adding some - rear camber will tone that done. Rear spring rates may be a bit high, but I'll try the camber first......it's free.

I was spinning yesterday.....maybe the car is to loose.;)

I should also say that I need to get the ABS fixed this week.....neither Jason or I are very good threshold brakers.:lol: smoke everywhere.

Upsides:
Car is awesome..runs great, sounds great, and I think looks great.
Drove a SS elise yesterday....very fun and a lot of work.....no PS:banana:
Get to drive a BSP solstice today....:banana:

My LC works :banana: and has since I installed the AP. I just never put the clutch in and floored it until yesterday. It was at 4400 (default) I took it to 5600 and will probably put it back to ~ 4400.

I didn't use the LC but I did launch the car, ONCE, got a little wheel spin and took off. I was thankful enough for that. We'll use the LC next weekend though.;)

Oh yeah....sounds great Greg!!! If the high speed oversteer is the bulk of your issues, you're in good shape!!! The cording could've happened from the no-ABS-smokeshow, so I wouldn't worry too-too much about it. You know you've got the right parts coming to take care of that. The column U joint is just an anomoly....don't let that happen again!!! Loctite FTW!

I also had my LC at 4000rpm and got some wheelspin on the stone impregnated 13's. Once clean and hot, I got a little bogging so I adjusted the rate of clutch release and was able to find a happy medium. I didn't have time to hook up the laptop and bump it to 5000 until afterwards, so I'm planning to throw the big wheels on and do a few practice launches this coming week.

I'm torn between putting the tarmac diff in now, or wait until after Lincoln......

All in all, I'm very pleased to see the progress Greg!

Jay

All in all sounds like you had a great first trip out with the car Greg. +1 on what Jay said about the lack-of-ABS contributing to the cording.

1st event. :banana::banana::banana::banana:

I'll give it 4 bananas. Well the rear spring rates need to come down and I've come to terms with that. Through slow speed corners the back end was just bouncing and bucking trying to work but ultimately is just to stiff.:( No worries I have softer springs.:)

Impressions of the car is awesome it seems to do what I want. I, admittedly, am not capable of driving it.................................yet. The abs thing needs resolved quickly. I'm either locking up/releasing or braking early to avoid it. It's could easily be .500 on a 40 second course.

Yesterday course was a pretty open 40 sec course with just a couple pin cones and the rest was pretty brisk. It was dry for everyone.

I had a new set of tires to scrub for lincoln and with a light turn out we were going to do 5 runs. First run I just did ~ 7/10 and came in with what would've been a decent ST* time w/dnf (did I mention the car's loose). 2nd run was ~ 9/10 I spun before the finish lights and was still a second faster than the 1st run. 3rd run I tried to run 10/10 and I had alot of braking errors and a couple driver errors and did my best time of the day, I also had fuel cut.

4th and 5th run I just took people for rides at ~ 8/10 and we giggled and laughed.:disco: I didn't have any gas to put in the car to stop the fuel cut.

In the end I ended up 3rd on index. Usually I don't care and I'm only referencing it for the car's potential........the 2 drivers I was behind are in car's they've been driving for a while.;) I also fought with them all last year. index (http://www.nworscca.com/modules/event_results/results/2009/2009_e1_web_files/2009_e1_web_index.htm)

I got alot of compliments from the course workers.:lol:

I took some in car and if I have time this week I'll convert it to digital and post it.

I have alot to do this week before I leave Thursday..........:popcorn:

You'll get it sorted!!!!! We may meet up on the way out if you're leaving thursday night.

Jay

Awesome result Greg. Coming 3rd in PAX behind Braun and Raglin in your first true event in the car is simply amazing.

new rims/tires on the way to you sir...courtesy of Phil...;)
they will leave today for you...:)....a 2nd set of meats...is a good thing...congrats on the great result...


Bill

Nice to hear the first test went well! Are you going to be making it out to the DC Pro? If so, I'm definitely looking forward to seeing the car in action. Good luck tweaking the setup. :D

new rims/tires on the way to you sir...courtesy of Phil...;)
they will leave today for you...:)....a 2nd set of meats...is a good thing...congrats on the great result...


Bill

Thank you very much for sending them out. Yep you should definetely have a 2nd set of bolognas to tear up.

Nice to hear the first test went well! Are you going to be making it out to the DC Pro? If so, I'm definitely looking forward to seeing the car in action. Good luck tweaking the setup. :D

I'm registered for DC and unless something drastic changes I'll be there.

ABS fixed-check
600# rears installed-check
Alignment varified-check
Ready for Lincoln-check

Greg

Rolled front fenders-check mate ;)

Rolled front fenders-check mate ;)
Took ride height up a 1/4";)

Pushed or cut?

So the first national event has came and went. Lincoln NE. pro-solo.

All I can say is the car far exceeded my expectations. 1st place and driving there I had no idea if I'd even be contending.

The car really felt great, the first runs Sat morn. the car was a bit tight through the slow stuff (which was most of the corners/course) and felt good every where else.

Between the morning and afternoon sessions we added a bit of toe-out in the rear and we were going to lower it 1/4" because we didn't appear to be rubbing. When we pulled the rears we realized we were already dangerously close to the spring perches so we said f' it. The toe-out was noticeable on my first afternoon run, I almost spun. With a little less steering input it felt right.

The launches were good we set the LC at 5300 after taking 4 Friday practice starts. I think we were averaging 1.7-1.9 60' for the weekend. The only thing I was babying was the lights as I was leaving a couple tenths there each time. I have a good feeling for the transmissions longevity...it should be on par with a STX car. It's not like we're getting 1.4 60' all of a sudden. There's just the right amount of wheel spin and then off you go.:) The LC is a blessing the last 7 seconds at the tree is now mine....it's like all the time in the world to just think about the course, wait for the buzzer, hit throttle, profit.

Still have an issue with CEL after a hot start up, it idles super rich, IDK. We fumbled with the accessport more than once in the staging lane. For one run I actually reset the ecu in the burn-out zone as my shot clock began to count down, car wouldn't start, cycled key, cranked, cycled key, cranked, car started, stumbled into the beams, car stalled with ~ 7 seconds left, car started with 2 seconds left, whew, nail throttle, leave right side, thank goodness for LC. My point is I need to find and fix the issue.:lol:

What we found.. car is obviously good. Every run was an adventure, for me, in learning what race tires are actually capable of. The raw times acheived were ~ the limit of myself and the car I felt. I'm sure there are others who could have gone faster in it. The fenders need massaged, shorter shocks for the rear ordered. I have a feeling will only be able to go down another 1/2" because of the 18"s (the fronts are rubbing the tops of the fender liner). It can use another -.5 of camber all the way around as there's just a little too much roll over. We can now dig back in the car for weight.

It was 2933 on the tech scales @ lincoln, not bad.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/ESPWinnerMcCance.jpg

Still have an issue with CEL after a hot start up, it idles super rich, IDK. We fumbled with the accessport more than once in the staging lane. For one run I actually reset the ecu in the burn-out zone as my shot clock began to count down, car wouldn't start, cycled key, cranked, cycled key, cranked, car started, stumbled into the beams, car stalled with ~ 7 seconds left, car started with 2 seconds left, whew, nail throttle, leave right side, thank goodness for LC. My point is I need to find and fix the issue.:lol:

Holy carp! That's close.

It was 2933 on the tech scales @ lincoln, not bad.

What was your car in STX trim again?

A couple action shots:

http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/images/2009_autocross/05_02-05_03_pro_solo___lap/img_3914.jpg

http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/images/2009_autocross/05_02-05_03_pro_solo___lap/img_3951.jpg

http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/images/2009_autocross/05_02-05_03_pro_solo___lap/img_3952.jpg

Holy carp! That's close.



What was your car in STX trim again?

2900 at the heartland park scales....I'm sure there's some variance in both.


Thanks Chike......

No prob Greg. Here's a link to all of the pics: http://gotcone.com/pgallery/2009_autocross/05_02-05_03_pro_solo___lap/

Some good ones of Jason in there as well...like this one:

http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/images/2009_autocross/05_02-05_03_pro_solo___lap/img_3731.jpg

those are some meaty tires

those are some meaty tires
Thanks, Should I put it in the meaty thread?:p


I've been kinda beating the carp out of the fenders this week.:D

I really think the car is about as low as it can go on 18's......which is about as low as it would go on 17's. Tire diameters being equal. I may have massaged my front fenders for no good reason.:)

I do have some aluminium control arms off of a TR and offset bushings that Billy B. sent me to go on the car between now and DC.

Billy has started a new venture called moderacing and he sent this link, which I thought was cool and I am extremely appreciative of.

http://moderacing.wordpress.com/

Nice writeup by Billy, thanks for the link. Time to read through the rest of it, I had no idea this is what he's been up to!

Ha ha. I love the haircut pics at the end of Billy's blog!!!! :D

P.S. Awesome to see what Billy's been up. Pretty cool stuff!!! :devil:

nice writeup... 1st and 3rd? http://fc05.deviantart.com/fs32/f/2008/204/2/f/Shifty_Eyes_Emoticon_by_Canaan1.gif

I'll be changing my toe myself. I just could not get the car to rotate in lincoln. I have a local event this weekend and I'm planning to try some interesting things. How much rear toe did you end up at? Not that it'd work for my car since I got no diffs =(

nice writeup... 1st and 3rd? http://fc05.deviantart.com/fs32/f/2008/204/2/f/Shifty_Eyes_Emoticon_by_Canaan1.gif

I'll be changing my toe myself. I just could not get the car to rotate in lincoln. I have a local event this weekend and I'm planning to try some interesting things. How much rear toe did you end up at? Not that it'd work for my car since I got no diffs =(

I didn't even catch the 1st and 3rd thing. I'll mention it to him.

We were probably at ~ 1/8" total.

It will work diff or no diff. You can take it until it becomes an issue during steering correction and you're countersteering the whole run :lol:.

Ok. well I'll mess around with it between runs. Should be interesting.

I'm gonna toss on the caster plates too (I got some from Jason a long time ago and never put them on). We'll see if I can get them on in the right direction.

It will work diff or no diff.
+1 I ran a 1/4 toe-out on my former DS WRX. Yeah, it rotated! :p

nice writeup... 1st and 3rd? http://fc05.deviantart.com/fs32/f/2008/204/2/f/Shifty_Eyes_Emoticon_by_Canaan1.gif

I'll be changing my toe myself. I just could not get the car to rotate in lincoln. I have a local event this weekend and I'm planning to try some interesting things. How much rear toe did you end up at? Not that it'd work for my car since I got no diffs =(

Changed it. Sorry.

Changed it. Sorry.

No worries, Billy and thank you.

By the way I fell in love with the "blue steel" :lol:

Lincoln Left Side
YouTube - Lincoln Pro Left side

Lincoln Right Side
YouTube - Lincoln Pro Right Side

Awesome videos Greg. You make it look so easy... :p

Awesome videos Greg. You make it look so easy... :p

Thanks Chike, those videos do bring to light that I need a new camera. Desperately.

I always spend money on other things though.:sadbanana:

The lap dances are always worth it!!!! ;)

Jay

I know I haven't updated in a while.

I think when I get back from a detroit event tomorrow I'll spend sometime updating and reformatting the first few posts.

hope you did well Greg..:)

I've begun to update the intial posts with current set up/results, etc.

So I've got some down time between our last local and the DC pro, which I'm very excited for by the way.

I don't think it's rained the last 2 years @ DC so what are the chances of a completely dry event this year. Something, something swamp during the rainiest month of the year.

So on my little hiatus I've decide to tackle a small laundry list.

1. switch to the aluminum control arms from a TR Billy sent me
2. push new bushings,TiC sent me, into the front inner attachment point of the control arms
3. install the offset bushings Billy had sent me a while back.
4. switch the rear springs to the 6" Billy sent me
5. remove spacers from rears and check clearence
6. mount hoosier wets to enkei's
7. forgot I had some steering rack bushings to put in
8. change all fluids
9. if I have time, weld up the left rear fender well where it split during rolling. Don't roll rusty fenders.
10. take the time to take pics of the process'

I think next Friday I drop the car back off to see if we can clear out the hot/idle richness dealio.

:popcorn:

That's an awesome laundry list Greg. Definitely take your time to "take pics of the process"....and sip some beer while you're at it! ;)

Looking forward to seeing the car in action @ the DC Pro in 2 weeks.

**double post**

3. install the offset bushings Billy had sent me a while back.

You didn't have this done back from your STX days? If you haven't done it before, drill into the rubber part around the center and then cut the metal sleeve with a sawzall to get the OE bushing out.

I'm quite looking forward to seeing the car at DC. I'll see you there. :)

You didn't have this done back from your STX days? If you haven't done it before, drill into the rubber part around the center and then cut the metal sleeve with a sawzall to get the OE bushing out.

I'm quite looking forward to seeing the car at DC. I'll see you there. :)

I had super pro bushings there that I'm replacing with the offset ones.:)

Control arm swap.

Get car in the air and remove the air tray and sub-frame.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0593.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0593.jpg)

You'll have more access to everything if you pull the caliper and rotor you don't have to but it's only a couple bolts.

You'll need to seperate the ball joint, this generally damages the boot.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0601.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0601.jpg)

Undo the sway bar and the other 2 means of attachment to the chassis, front and rear.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0599.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0599.jpg)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0598.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0598.jpg)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0600.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0600.jpg)

I've had my control arms off a couple times. Both times I ended up opting to seperate the ball joint from the control arm rather than the ball joint from the hub. I never wanted to mess with the pinch bolt in the cast hub I always thought it would break. This time I have to change the ball joints because they are different for the aluminum arms. I soaked the bolt for 2 days with pb and .........
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0596.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0596.jpg)
Now I get to deal with this....ah well.

You should be able to rotate the arm out and have...
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0609.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0609.jpg)
This is much easier than fighting this bolt while it's attached to the car. All you have to do is stand on the arm and stomp on the breaker bar.....easy.

I pulled off the end piece and pressed out the super pro bushing.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0606.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0606.jpg)

Then orientate the offset bushing so it is as far to the outside of the car as it can be, with the conical section facing the front of the car and press it in.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0608.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0608.jpg)

Done. Except getting the broken pinch bolts out.....:furious:

Damn, best of luck with the pinch bolt. That offset bushing will also push your front wheels slightly forward in the wheelwell.

Yeah.........:rolleyes:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0611.jpg

Had to give up and pull the hub.

Awww man! Sorry to see that greg. :mad:

Weak.

Sucks on having to pull the hub. You going to just drill it out now or just swap hubs? FWIW I always anti-seize the crap out of the top of the ball joint and the pinch bolt so that I can pull it easily instead of pickle-forking the ball joint and damaging the boot. Granted, looks like yours had been fairly frozen up/crusty? Mine has been in and out plenty of times so it's easy now.

Love the build man. :)

-Biggly

Sucks on having to pull the hub. You going to just drill it out now or just swap hubs? FWIW I always anti-seize the crap out of the top of the ball joint and the pinch bolt so that I can pull it easily instead of pickle-forking the ball joint and damaging the boot. Granted, looks like yours had been fairly frozen up/crusty? Mine has been in and out plenty of times so it's easy now.

Love the build man. :)

-Biggly

Thanks Biggly

After ~ an extra 4 hours and breaking off 2 drill bits and 1 extractor........I win. There were a couple times I almost gave up.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0620.jpg


My car was a dd until Spring 2005 so it had more than a few mid-west winters on it. I was going to deal with the ball joints sooner or later anyways.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0615.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0615.jpg)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/th_100_0614.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/?action=view&current=100_0614.jpg)

I got a couple days off so I'm going back to my to do list. Is it afternoon yet, I need a beer.:banana:

It's afternoon somewhere Greg. Drink up! :D

This looks pretty sick

Interesting width comparision between Kuhmo 285/30/18's and Hoosier 285/30/18's

hoosiers are on 10" wide rims, kuhmos 9.5" wide rims. Still a huge difference. Kuhmos are ~ 7/8" narrower, the unmounted hoosiers are only ~ 1/8" wider than the mounted versions. I will compare again when I eventually put some hoosiers on the 9.5" wide rims.

There was never any doubt that I'd run the Hoosiers. I just had these side by side in the garage.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0635.jpg

great read, thanks for sharin...

So I've got some down time between our last local and the DC pro, which I'm very excited for by the way.

I don't think it's rained the last 2 years @ DC so what are the chances of a completely dry event this year. Something, something swamp during the rainiest month of the year.

So on my little hiatus I've decide to tackle a small laundry list.

1. switch to the aluminum control arms from a TR Billy sent me DONE
2. push new bushings,TiC sent me, into the front inner attachment point of the control arms DONE
3. install the offset bushings Billy had sent me a while back. DONE
4. switch the rear springs to the 6" Billy sent me DONE
5. remove spacers from rears and check clearence DONE
6. mount hoosier wets to enkei's DONE
7. forgot I had some steering rack bushings to put in DONE
8. change all fluids DONE
9. if I have time, weld up the left rear fender well where it split during rolling. Don't roll rusty fenders. Not done
10. take the time to take pics of the process' Partially done

I think next Friday I drop the car back off to see if we can clear out the hot/idle richness dealio. It's there, I pick it up Wednesday.

:popcorn:

I even found time to throw a coat of rustoleum on the deck of the trailer.

If we can just keep the rain away from the DC pro.....it should be a good weekend.

You sure do have alot of people "giving" you stuff..... Care to share?

Nice man....see you in DC!!!!

You sure do have alot of people "giving" you stuff..... Care to share?

Nice man....see you in DC!!!!

No joke.

See everyone in DC.

Well as most know the DC pro has come and gone. I had written a long detailed list on my experience there but think I'll summarize.

First DC's always a great event (I don't like the city) It's great to see the extended auto-x family and it's weird how you feel adopted by other region members. I feel at home with the majority of the philly crew and enjoy just hanging out and laughing.

After first runs Saturday I was in 7th place and there were some in grid who were so proud of being faster than an awd car in the rain. It's too bad that trophies aren't awarded for Sat. morning runs........:) Oh well they enjoyed it for at least a little while. I guess they never got the memo that saturday morning runs didn't matter and I didn't care.

After Saturday afternoon I had a 1.4 second lead over 2nd, after Sunday it was wittled down to 1.1 seconds. I have a feeling it would've been closer with a certain white T/A. They were definetly HP courses.

Made it deep into the challenge where I was out driven for 2nd/1st and drove myself out of 3rd for 4th. :(

Notes on the car....the camaro's were next to me at the turn in at the end of the start straight. Any launch advantage I had was quickly taken back going up the hill by their HP.

I had adjusted the LC as the start rubbered in a couple times, and should've during the challenges, but the car really felt anemic going up the hill. I need to find some HP

Also I started getting some clunking from the right front at the end of Saturday into Sunday. Monday I pulled all 4 tires and inspected. It appears the offset bushings have twisted in their mounts. Not rotated, twisted/distorted. I guess I'll have to look at replacing or dealing. Active alignment.......:cool:

So on deck is switching to the plastic manifold from an 08 to see if we can reduce intake temps and of course they're much lighter. I also may move to c16 to see if any HP gains are possible.

I had originally bought the plastic manifold as I was going to run a vf52 from an 09............;)

Nice runs Greg! It was great to see the car running in person, it's a beast, and you drive it fantastically. I couldn't believe how much and how often I saw that rear end step out, just to be brought back in line like it was nothing.

Also great to talk to you as well and appreciate your feedback and insight. ;)

Nice runs Greg! It was great to see the car running in person, it's a beast, and you drive it fantastically. I couldn't believe how much and how often I saw that rear end step out, just to be brought back in line like it was nothing.

Also great to talk to you as well and appreciate your feedback and insight. ;)

Thanks Josh, It's appreciated.

I had written a blow by blow of the event kinda in the vein of yours and BD's thread......but just couldn't post it.

Anytime on the advice, too bad you're not coming to Toledo.

^^^Echoed. Not only is this car being built the right way, it's being driven for all it's worth. If there's ever an opportunity for me to build something for ESP....this is the path I will take. Thanks again for sharing the nuts and bolts of the process Greg.


Jay Storm

Wish I could make Toledo, but at this point that could push me into those divorce statistics. ;)

I also may move to c16 to see if any HP gains are possible.

E85........:popcorn:

E85........:popcorn:

Still not sure if that's the best solution for some one who doesn't use alot of gas. :)

I know i know.......was just looking for you to be the local guinea pig! ;)

DC vid....I'm so getting one of those Kodak HD cameras.

This is my 2 fastest which is also teh last runs of competition.:)


YouTube - My Movie

I want one of those...the car that is. :D

The end of your left side run was awesome.

wicked ass ****ing video dude.

I feel your pain on the ball joints they are the biggest pain in the butt. I ended up cracking a knuckle the first time working on my friends car.

Had some 285 hoosiers put on the 9.5 inch wheels. There is only ~ 1.25" difference in a stack of 4 which is ~ 5/16" per tire. After talking to Winchester the past weekend he states the Berry camp says there's no quantifible speed difference between 10's and 9.5's.

Phycologically I'd always prefer to be on the 10's

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0641.jpg

Greg,

You can wheel that car like no other. It was a real treat watching you run @ the DC Pro. Onwards to the Pro Finale & Nats!!!! :devil:

Greg,

You can wheel that car like no other. It was a real treat watching you run @ the DC Pro. Onwards to the Pro Finale & Nats!!!! :devil:

Thanks Chike, That's a real compliment.

So yesterday we had a one day divisional @ the airport......I had been asked to do the course a while ago. And as the entry list grew to ~ 250 and ESP alone was around 14 or so I thought I'd switch from pro to open. ESP had ~ 5-6 hitters and thought it would be an opportunity to see where the car is outside of a pro solo.

I intentionally tried to make the course defeat any advantage of awd. No straight away launch, no point and squirt sections. I actually tried to make it as I think a big, open nationals course may be. A bit like a road race course.

Due to the size of the event we went with a 3 run format, perfect. Luckily the weather turned out to be beautiful so that wouldn't be a factor and the course I thought should give the advantage to the pony cars.

At the end of 3 runs I was 2nd .086 behind first, .437 in front of 3rd. I'm writing a letter. :) We were both in the 50.xxx range at the top of 2nd gear most of the time.

I could give some excuse, like the 100 run hoosier not feeling the best, but I don't truly care. This is why I switched classes. For 4 years I wondered if I could make up 2 seconds on a 60 second course. Truth is it's a tall order. I lost to the guy who took 8th at Nats last year, and has been on fire locally at least this year. It was a good gauge.

What I do take away is if I'm close enough on the fast course at nationals, I should be in contention switching to a tighter course. I also would like to find a few more ponies so I will be switching to 100 to see what we get.

I have no intentions of winning nationals, I'll just go and drive the best I can.

So I bought a plastic intake when I started this because I was going to run the vf52 in esp via UD/BD. Bolt turbo to 2007 engine, it becomes a 2009 assembly. All the internals are the same so there would be no real way to seperate what they bulit from what they could've built from the parts bin. If the head is fualty on your 09 there's nothing to prevent the dealer from putting on a 2006 head. This was before the march fastrack....there's a reason I was waiting to buy the turbo.

Since then I've been thinking about using it anyways. It's lighter, I've been told it flows better, and it should keep the intake charge down. Seems win/win.

So I've gotten around to trying it. I know there are those who say you need different TGV's, I'm gonna say they're wrong for now. I did test fit this when I had my intake apart. I know it will take work but it's not impossible. The center holes are off by ~ an 1/8".

So I started by draining a couple quarts from the radiator, then pulling the intake, intercooler and air seperator.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0643.jpg

Then I pulled the altenator and shifted the P/S pump out of the way.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0644.jpg

After that I undid all the elec. connectors that connected the mani to the chassis or engine. I'm choosing to leave the TGV's on the engine at this time. I undid the mani from the TGV's, I undid the fuel rails from the TGV's, slipped out the turbo inlet and pulled the intake off of the TGV's.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0646.jpg

The picture on top is the 2007 crossover piping on the bottom is the 2008 up. Due to the off center throttle body you have to either murder out the existing piping or switch to the 2008 for around $40.00. It's much cleaner packaging if you use the factory piece. You'd have a bunch of hose clamps and thick rubber tubing under everything to accomplish the same goal. In the picture above you can see some of my murdered out coolant hoses from when I originally test fit this back in December, like I said it makes a packaging nightmare.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0648.jpg

About 1.5 hours later,
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0649.jpg

Now the hard part making it work, I'll save that for the rest of the week. I'll have to cut apart the other wiring harness to make it work. Thought about ordering an 08 one but there like $250.00 and I haven't seen any cheapo's for sale.

The only real difference, apart from the obvious shape and material, is the absolute manifold pressure sensor location. Luckily the abandoned 3 wire TGV connector fits perfectly.:)

You may say WTF, but why not. If it works it will be slick and it will give me the felxibility to pick up a cheap vf52 and see what kinda power the car would make.

I paid $100.00 for the intake w/throttle body, fuel rails and sensors and $50.00 for a leggy intercooler. :sweet:

To quote Tim Gunn from Project Runway: "Make it work!" :lol: :lol: :lol:

Btw, any idea what the weight savings are going from the aluminum intake manifold to the plastic one?

Btw, any idea what the weight savings are going from the aluminum intake manifold to the plastic one?

I would guess around 5-10lbs. I will weigh them both tonight on my ever so accurate bathroom scale.:lol:

:fierce:

Hey Greg, Didn't see you anywhere at the auto-x, but I did see your car make a couple of runs. Very nice looking runs! Car looks great as well!

Nice project on the manifold!

I'm knida on a deadline with the intake as I would like to get it to Pure before we go out of town thursday. I alloted my self 6 hours to get it done, unfortunately I don't know if I'll have 6 hours this week.

Chike, the manifold is 4lbs lighter. I haven't weighed the intercooler yet.

Here's what the top looks like with the other water pipe. Alot cleaner than the alternative. You can see I opted to bypass the throttle body coolant loop.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0650.jpg

To get this thing on it will be easier to remove the fuel lines, to do that you'll need to remove the throttle body.

Set the manifold on and start the 4 outside bolts, these holes line up relatively well. You'll see the center holes are ~ an 1/8" off.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0655.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0651.jpg

Grab a C clamp and something to spread the gap in the TGV and pull the center over.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0658.jpg

Then you can get the center bolts started and tightened down.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0657.jpg

Done. I know there's no gasket issue and the manifold runners are smaller and sit centered over the TGV openings because I did this same exercise with the TGV off of the car. They dump unobstructed into the tgv's

Now fishing the fuel lines back through, tightning them up and bolting the bracket to the bottom of the manifold with the manifold affixed is a bit of a pain but completely doable.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0659.jpg

As I was messing with the injectors I dropped one of the lower gaskets into the infernal abyss, never to be seen again. So after a run over to Pure for another one I was back in buisness. They way I left it last night was everything was mechanically done and bolted up. So I still need to hack up the wiring harness and make the intercooler work with the td04.

As you can see, in one of the pictures in the other post, the top of the runners are in line with the fuel lines. If you measure the old mainfold, mating surface to fuel lines, they are the same. It's just the runners and center section is that much taller on the plastic one. Because of that I'll pull the left front headlight and look through the opening as I close the hood. Make sure there's no issues with clearance.

I'll see what I can accomplish tonight.:)

Hey Greg, Didn't see you anywhere at the auto-x, but I did see your car make a couple of runs. Very nice looking runs! Car looks great as well!

Nice project on the manifold!


Sorry I missed you Jacob. I bailed a little early because I had the opportunity to, which is rare.

Thanks..........................for the compliments.:)

Chike, the manifold is 4lbs lighter. I haven't weighed the intercooler yet.
Thanks Greg.

Taking the weekend off racing? Have a good 4th of July holiday! :)

Taking the weekend off racing? Have a good 4th of July holiday! :)

Yep. I was registered for Peru, then I cancelled cause I don't really like tours and we made plans to do somthing that doesn't involve parking lots........:) Same to you Chike.

The manifold as it sits now.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0660.jpg

I had gone through previously and labled everything on the manifold wiring harness. Most of them you get to know but things like the injectors connectors are all the same and you probably don't want to mistakingly get them mixed up so just label them.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0661.jpg

It's mainly the left side portion that needs some adjusting so I just seperated everything I could on that side. I really needed to split off the throttle body, knock sensor, pressure sensor, cam posistion sensor, and the fuel injector connectors. It looked like:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0665.jpg

After I had what I thought was workable I loomed everything to and through the manifold to make sure everything would reach and nothing was going to interfere. While evertything was in it's new locations I taped the areas of wires that would be new split offs or branchs. Then I pulled it back off the engine and re-taped and covered those sections to get this: The one connector that is not taped is the left side TGV connector. I will be using that 3 wire connector, to clip to the different manifold pressure sensor sense I obviously do not have TGV's.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0666.jpg

I'll cut off the tgv connector and splice it in behind the existing 3 wire pressure sensor connector on the 2007 harness. I could go back and for between manifolds more easily that way. On the 2007 the pressure sensor resides on the top of the throttle body on the 2008 they took it off the throttle body and it resides on the front side of the manifold.

That may be it for the weekend. If I get home early today enough I may connect everything, hook the battery up and insure the gas pedal still functions the throttle body. Other than that I threw the intercooler in the truck and I'll dorp it off at Pure so Keith can begin roughing out a flange and a different connection. I guess everything else will wait till Monday.

Oh and I'm at ~ 4.5 hours of labor right now.

Cheers

Hey Storm any legality issues thus far, that you see?

And couldn't I technically strip everything uneeded out of the manifold wiring harness or not?

Thanks

How funny....I just came across the pics and was wondering why the cutters were there in a pic posted nationally!

You can relocate or repurpose....but not remove unused parts of the harness. I'd love to trim mine of the multitude of unused wires too....alas, we can't. Personally, I see nothing wrong with stripping anything not needed and stuffing it all in a plastic bag, then (securely) placing it elsewhere in the car....like the spare tire well or something. ;) It's still moved, but not removed.......as is the letter of the rule.

Jay

How funny....I just came across the pics and was wondering why the cutters were there in a pic posted nationally!
Meh, I was going to gnaw through the cable ties and shielding. Then I decided to mis-use the snips for it. I'm not worried about the cars legality. :) If it's not it would be for something stupid or unintentional.

In the effort of free information and transparency, for fellow auto-x enthusiasts, I thought I'd begin a new thread.


You can relocate or repurpose....but not remove unused parts of the harness. I'd love to trim mine of the multitude of unused wires too....alas, we can't. Personally, I see nothing wrong with stripping anything not needed and stuffing it all in a plastic bag, then (securely) placing it elsewhere in the car....like the spare tire well or something. ;) It's still moved, but not removed.......as is the letter of the rule.

Jay

Kinda what I thought and way to much work. Maybe if I get really, really bored.

I've ran into a couple problems with the install.

1. 3 injectors leak at the top. They've been re-used a few times and I hope it's just the o-rings that need replacing. I have some coming. They are the same part number 2008 and 2007 so the fuel rails are the same size. It may be that the fuel rail is not being drawn down enough to seal (different tgv). But I'll try the new o-rings first, it's not like I can move the injector up and down when it's assembled plus 1 injector is golden, so......... The car starts and idles. Throttle body works and all that.

2. The intercooler fitment is a PITA. I even split the inlet end tank and turned it around.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0673.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0672.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0671.jpg

Either way you go is a PITA so I just conceded and removed the endtank and took the intercooler over to Pure-Tuning to have them make a custom endtank with a 2" inlet on the bottom rear. It would be possible with a few 90* couplers but in the end I decided if I was going to spend money I may as well have something made that solves all the problems.

Since the car is basically at stage 2 output I'm not all that concerened with the size of the intercooler. It should be plenty efficient and when it's back on the dyno we'll be able to see if it's a restriction or not, compared to the APS. I think it should be fine, if it's not I'll have a custom intercooler made.

When I can get the car back to Pure were going to rig up the APS to it and see if there's a noticable difference in intake temp. It was originally tuned with the APS on it. I say there will be without testing. I know I should be able to put my hand on the intake no matter how hot the engine gets.

Then will put the other intercooler on, re-tune, and make sure there's no issue with it.

Another big side effect is the APS is 25# the legacy one is 5#. I will have to re-weigh the legacy one after the endtank is on. I don't think it'll be much different. I've basically shed 30lbs off the nose...that's huge.

I'm trying to get it back together for a local this Sunday. I figure it should be alright to run with out tuning. I should be able to pick up the intercooler tomorrow.:)

We'll see..................

I think I have it. I changed injector o-rings and no leaky leaky. It starts, all that good stuff.

I also stopped and picked up the intercooler. :) I think having a hard pipe made with a tight radius 90* elbow at the intercooler would be good. That way there would only be one silicone elbow at the turbo. But for a quick install this did the trick.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0675.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0676.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0677.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/100_0678.jpg

It's obvious I do nothing for looks.(:lol:Have you seen me?:alien:) However a big thanks to Aaron over at Pure for turning it around. I litterally handed it to him at 11:30 yesterday afternoon and it was done when I stopped by at 4:00 pm today.:D He knew I wanted to attend the event this Sunday.

So Keith offered to make room on the dyno if I could get it to him quickly, so I hustled to get it together tonight.

I'll go back through the first intake post and list what I did/changed to work this out, my posting has suffered just out of need to get it together.



I don't even know if people are interested in this intake????:confused: Oh well more later.

I know I know heat shield above the turbo......i:)

Cheers
Greg

Looks really good Greg, especially for someone who's not into that sort of thing. ;)


Interested to hear how much of a performance change there is with the intake/intercooler setup. The weight savings are great, hopefully the perforamance is still where you need it. Good luck and looking forward to the update from the weekend.

So do you have a 25lbs alum. brick for sale then?!?!?! ;)


Looks good greg.........and more work then I thought you'd go into with that manifold. Kudos for the re-engineering. I'll have to swing by some evening and have a look-see!

So do you have a 25lbs alum. brick for sale then?!?!?! ;)

If you want it, you'll have first dibs. I'll even throw in a couple sticks of butter to get it in the engine compartment.:)


Looks good greg.........and more work then I thought you'd go into with that manifold. Kudos for the re-engineering. I'll have to swing by some evening and have a look-see!

Meh...work is good for you.

I dropped the car off last night to be tuned. Now I personally didn't feel it was going to be necassary and I also didn't want to put the guys out because I was ~ a week behind.

Keith was a little less than comfortable with the idea of not at least checking it out (possibility of change in air intake) before beating on it. I said lean must be faster :) but what do I know. He convinced me.

I do not expect a large increase in HP/TQ, in fact I expect none.:( The only change, I would think, would be temp and weight. That and the process of actually doing it is the only reason for doing it at all. The 8mm spacers under the tgv's should do a good job of isolating/insulating them from the heads. So the entire manifold may be quasi composite.:) Who knows though the runners are quite a bit different than the metal ones...maybe we'll be surprised.

Side note: It wouldn't idle at all when I pulled it out of the garage, onto and off of the trailer at the shop. I was thinking if this doesn't run on the dyno due to an installation issue I'm f'd. After a little thinking I remembered un- hooking the right side sensor ground to do the injectors.......It's amazing how important these grounds are.;) Bolted it up and it went right back to normal. :sweet:

More than anything I wanted to thank Kieth and Aaron for moving somethings around for me to get the car in today or tomorrow.:D More later

Greg,

Is this a race gas tune you'll be getting this time around?

Greg,

Is this a race gas tune you'll be getting this time around?

For control/time purposes it will be on 94, which is not a change. Since everyone's kinda tight on time I will be bringing it back to do the APS comparison and at that time we'll do a 94/100 comparison. I guess it will depend on how much head room in given for timing by 100.

Hopefully this happens before the Toledo Pro........but I also commited to pulling the trans and putting the diff in the spare one before then :confused::confused::furious: Oh that's right I wanted something to work on.:lol:

I don't think it will be on the dyno very long this time around.;)

I'll let you guys interpret it.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/SCAN0001.jpg

This is from changing the intake, intercooler and bov. I can't really say if it's one thing. It needed fuel added. I'd feel confident the manifolds the change but who really cares. More power earlier and later, minus the small hiccup at 3600 which could probably be massaged out. Seems well worth while to me.

We may not get to test the APS as I'm gonna sell it asap and the schedule's pretty full at the shop. I doubt the APS was a restriction so you can draw your own conclusions on the results. It's obvious I'm not going back the other way.

Keep in mind it's was ~ 60* in April and ~90* today with crippling humidity. I guess it could be partially a bov difference???

So I guess - 30lbs :D, less heat soak :D, and moving the lines to the left and up :D.

Thoughts? Worthless info? Worthless data? :popcorn:

Oh the ugly, ugly non-existent tq curve of a 2.5 w/a td-04 :facepalm:

Greg, who custom fabbed your intercooler? I think you should just sell that one to me or atleast make me one.


EDIT: nevermind, just read that Pure Tuning fabbed that. Can I ask you how much they charged you for that mod? I want to run a vf series turbo on the LGT

Had a couple interesting issues at the event Sunday.

1. I was only able get 2 runs before the intercooler hose pipe began popping off due to not being beaded at the ends. Even though Aaron suggested I bring it back to him after I cut it to length.:lol: Also I didn't have time to make a bracket for the intercooler, to keep it from shaking around. One or the other probably would've prevented it from happening, it was a bumpy lot. Both will insure it doesn't happen.

2. Even though the vacuum hose that connects the manifold to the brake canister came with the manifold and is for turbo......it did not have a check valve.:lol: Boost in the canister meant stepping on the brakes was like stepping on a brick.:lol: I didn't check when I installed it......even though I knew it needed it. I'll use my other line or cut the check valve out of it.

Both issues are my fault, just complete disregard. This is the first time a mechanical has ever affected me at an event. Embarassing (course workers pushed my car off 3 times. I tried to re-attach the pipe but everything was like a thousand degrees and I couldn't get it to stay on long enough to complete another run.) and a good lesson.

I managed to barely index out on my second run so I guess it wasn't all bad.

If you decide to hate that TMIC, you can always sell it to me. ;)

Greg,

Its all about area under the curve and you got the curve to move in the right direction with those mods so i would say it was well worth it. Peak values are for dyno queens... Im still surprised at the lack of hp the car makes (remember talking to you about it at D.C.) though.

Interms of the IC switch, are you making a custom wind deflector in the hood scoop for the new one? I think that is crucial.

Also, did you gut the TGV's? Pretty sure you know what im talking about but just in case:
http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=60_33_36_52&products_id=35
Is this even legal for SP?

Good ish at any rate!

Greg,

Its all about area under the curve and you got the curve to move in the right direction with those mods so i would say it was well worth it. Peak values are for dyno queens... Im still surprised at the lack of hp the car makes (remember talking to you about it at D.C.) though.

Interms of the IC switch, are you making a custom wind deflector in the hood scoop for the new one? I think that is crucial.

Also, did you gut the TGV's? Pretty sure you know what im talking about but just in case:
http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=60_33_36_52&products_id=35
Is this even legal for SP?


Good ish at any rate!

TGV's are gutted and yes it's legal for *SP, under a couple of different rules (emissions and intake).

The butt dyno and results tell me the car works, I just posted the graph for others to see. I've been told by other car owners to add ~20% for this particular dyno. But whatever, I wouldn't complain about more power though.

Funny you should mention the intercooler deflector thingy. Yesterday I stopped and bought a 2'X3' piece of aluminium sheet to do just that. The rules say I can't touch the scoop or splitter but the intercooler's unrestricted. ;) I guess it has to be part of the intercooler then.

:disco:

I'll post some pics as I make it.

Thanks for the input.

Cheers

One week till the Toledo Pro.....I'm pretty stoked.:) I have the week off so I should be prepared.

Well I got around to making a bracket for the frankencooler. I just bought some 3/4'' flat stock used the vice, a hammer, and a pipe wrench to bend and twist into shape.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0694.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0693.jpg

Then took a piece of 2" aluminium angle and notched it to match the factory stuff so I could use the rubber mount. Marked the intercooler and took it to the shop to have it welded. I pick it up and Aaron had painted it and threw a logo on it......I thought that was a nice touch.

And it turned out pretty slick, I think.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0695.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0696.jpg

Pretty simple stuff but the end results looks alright. The bigger bonus is the hoses shouldn't pop again. I'm still working on a splitter that's attached to the intercooler. I've screwed up a couple times already. It's not like I can get in the engine bay, close the hood, and take measurements.....:lol:


More later

That's what play-doh is for......

See you Friday!
Jay

Greg,

Hope the car runs problem-free this wekeend. Best of luck!!! :devil:

Greg,

Hope the car runs problem-free this wekeend. Best of luck!!! :devil:

:huh: For some reason I thought you were attending.

Anyways, thanks. I'll do my best. The car should be fine, I hope. It will have 3drivers.........fingers crossed.

:huh: For some reason I thought you were attending.
With BS running Thurs/Fri this year at Nats, we nixxed the idea of going to the Pro Finale. So we just did the DC Pro for the competition. See you at Solo Nats!

Which reminds me, I need to start a thread for that asap... :p

This is by far the most rudementary thing I've done to date. Since the 02 hoodscoop and splitter doesn't necassarily line up with the ghetto fabulous intercooler setup. I thought I'd make a funnel to attach to the intercooler it's self. Since the intercooler is wide open in ESP I can modify it. The hood scoop and factory splitter I cannot touch. Thems the rules, as stupid as some are.

You can see the air space around the intercooler with the hood closed. Is all the air that enters the scoop going through the intercooler?
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0683.jpg

I used a t-bevel square to get the angles needed, I just closed the hood on it. A useful little tool. It just copies an unknown angle.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0686.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0688.jpg

Tranferred the different angles onto a piece of cardboard, for later use.


I also was being economical with money and time. I bought a piece of .019 aluminum sheet from the hobby bin for $4.00. Made some initial guesstemations on what size pieces I needed. Then cut the front and rear pieces.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0729.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0731.jpg

After I had them how I wanted I pop-riveted them to the intercooler. The ends are basically just an aluminum frame to hold the core. It's ok to penetrate as long as you don't puncture the first true runner. Now you know how I keep my car looking so good. I use it as a work bench.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0730.jpg

Then just filled in the sides and pop riveted them to the front and rear.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0733.jpg

The end result is not going to win any car shows, but absolutely fits the bill.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0734.jpg


As far as practicality, I leave it up to the peanut gallery here. Was it a useful 2 hours and $4.00? It has to be more effective right? It may even act as a bit of a heat sink???

The extra cover piece on the drivers side is because I had to cut a large notch around the BOV hose to make it easier to mount/unmount the intercooler. All very utilitarian.


I need to make a warning sticker as you could easily slit your wrists whilst under my hood.:eek:

Now thats custom lol nice work though.

The only way that could be any better is if you made it in the parking lot of a Home Depot at 3AM the night before the Pro Finale!!!!!

Well done Greg. Aesthetics can come later.....Function over form!

Jay

we want more pics greg

I really had nothing to do today. So I took the car out to do a shake down and see if any thing would fall off of it. Nothing did.:) I stopped by the shop and Tcal was there with his 08 sweetness.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0745.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0750.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0747.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0752.jpg

Aaron seemed thrilled with me covering his handy work on the intercooler. I told him I made it better. :lol: I got bored so I went home. I had to change wheels to the ones with the better tires for this weekends event.....then I went and took some more pics.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0766.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0764.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0761.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0759.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0764.jpg




Hellaflush yo, you're the illest! :banana:

Nice work, nice pics! :)

Hellaflush yo, you're the illest! :banana:

Thanks Brah :lol:


Found these while digging through some stuff.

O.G.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/MKS_6766.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/MKS_6217.jpg

Excellent thread. Thanks for sharing. :)

Thanks Brah :lol:


Found these while digging through some stuff.

O.G.

:cool:

I have a few of those...

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/jimmybikerider/Car%20pics/10469_023.jpg

Thanks Brah :lol:


Found these while digging through some stuff.

O.G.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/MKS_6766.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/MKS_6217.jpg

Oh the days of your BBS wheels and rocking 7" wide rubber.........How things have changed. :)


You still have the picture of me nose diving on my stock suspension down at that test n' tune in C-bus? Wow, that was like 4 years ago!

http://www.buttdynoracing.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=3130
1st event ever, April 27 2003. RE92 pwr!!

. Embarassing (course workers pushed my car off 3 times. I tried to re-attach the pipe but everything was like a thousand degrees and I couldn't get it to stay on long enough to complete another run.) and a good lesson.

Better it happen at Fostoria than at the Pro this weekend. At least you only got pushed off once ;)
And Greg I don't think you mentioned that cool thing you did to your trunk haha

Hey i have a question about your rotors because the cross drilled and slotted i got and the slots go the opposite direction of yours. You think if i reversed them left to right it would brake better? or is going against what the box said a bad idea?

Hey i have a question about your rotors because the cross drilled and slotted i got and the slots go the opposite direction of yours. You think if i reversed them left to right it would brake better? or is going against what the box said a bad idea?

This thread has derailed..:( Get you ugly, stock fitment, non-flush heaps out of my thread. :lol:

I'll tell you what I think about the rotors. The vains inside are probably more important than the direction of slots or holes. However the usually mimic one another.

That is the way stop tech delivered them and it's also the way they suggest installing them if you do swap out rings.

There's alot of info on stoptechs site. The cooling vains should be like this: \\\\\
not ////// looking at the rotor. page 13 (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/manuals_bbk/Installation%20Manual_Subaru%20WRX_Front_98-836-1430_Rev.%20G_08-19-05.pdf)

Speaking of brakes I got the bug to measure my caster this morning.

I had added those offset bushings awhile ago and I've been curious as to what the results are. Believe me I noticed the heavy steering, which I like, so I knew it had an effect.

So how do I measure caster and what is it. I guess it's the difference, vertically, between the upper and lower ball joint. I inspected my car and was surprised to find out I had no upper ball joint.:p Kidding. For our cars it must be the difference vetically in the centerline of the shock or strut.

How do I measure it? Well I pulled the car on my 40K hunter alignment rig and let it tell me what it was.

Oh wait I don't have one of those. :lol: So, instead I grabbed something that would reach across the front of the car and stick out past the fenders and tires. I lined it up so that the top side of the level was center of the shocks.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0767.jpg

Then I grabbed something that would reach between the ground and the level. I lined it up so it was center of the axle.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0768.jpg

Then I grabbed the thing I've used for alignments for about 3 years now. Well it and a tape measure and occasionally jackstands and a chalk line.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0769.jpg

It appears I have ~ 7.2 degrees of positive caster. :) can we say bmw like caster.

You would not believe the accuracy you can acheive with these simple tools.
I'll tell you that last year at the pro finale I re-did the alignment after each run group. I was driving Billy nuts. But it was raining for the finale and the car just didn't want to rotate. In hindsight I doubt anyones car was turning well due to lack of front end bite. It was a monsoon.

Now all things being equal few people are going to outdrive Billy in the wet. He's part fish. I think the point is I had to re-do the alignment back to where it was for nationals. I did that with my $35.00 worth of tools and then borrowed a smart camber tool and drove down to the set-up pad to check it. it was dead-on perfect.

If you mess with your alignment alot you can save alot of money and especially time by not visiting the alignment shop everytime you want to adjust or check something.

Just do it and practice it.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/mccanixx/102_0769.jpg


Where would I be able to obtain one of these tools?