currently i'm street pro tuned with enginuity by Ray@ Turbotektuning.
everything is fine but i just wanna know if AP or Hydra or Utek is any better or more benefited over the enginuity.
I have never been dynoed after the tune...so i don't even know what hp i'm pushing... and i get a bad MPG.... maybe 16-18 mpg......it sux....

here is list of my mods:
Blouch EvoIII16G turbo
Perrin Turbo inlet hose
Perrin Short Ram intake
Perrin Fuel Rail V.2
Deatchwerks 650cc injectors
Walbro 255lbp fuel pump
AEM alcohol injection @10psi
Invidia V4 divorced wastegate Downpipe
Perrin Up pipe
Perrin EL header
SSAC FMIC
Perrin Light weight Crankpulley
Apexi EBCS

If you don't like the tune, blame the tuner, not the EMS, they're all capable of very nearly the same things.

Take the money you would spend buying another form of engine management and get another tune.

There is nothing wrong with Open Source tuning. I'm not sure what you would expect to gain switching to an AP, since an AP and Open Source do the same thing. Hydra is a big and expensive step and to go to a Utec you would still want a good tune on the stock ecu for when the Utec isn't in control yet.

ok thanx
how about street tune vs. dyno tune?

Street tunes can be very good, but I would prefer to see a car get on a dyno if for nothing else just to finalize the street tune and clean it up.

Street tunes can be very good, but I would prefer to see a car get on a dyno if for nothing else just to finalize the street tune and clean it up.

Other way around. Street tune to clean up the dyno tune.

I've actually done it the other way around, but it was for different reasons. Having an EWG makes it tricky to do full pulls around here, so I was able to do most of my own tuning and then I handed it over to a tuner to finish on the dyno and clean up the high rpm and high load cells.

But yes most of the time you would want to take a car out on the streets to validate your work on the dyno and test the tune under real conditions.

After having spent a year screwing around with my tune: Dyno first to work to the little details like what AFR your engine actually likes, where MTBT is, etc so you have maximum power and efficiency. Then take it out on the street to actually make it drivable and survivable.

They all take you to the same place, its just what gadgets come with it (although COBBs new SD **** will be interesting on an AP)

I know Pirouz @ DPS does dyno then street, but thats only if the customer really wants a dyno. Otherwise its just his regular street terror tunes :devil:

Also, I didn't know people even called it enginuity anymore

If you take it somewhere that can steady state tune your car then you won't need to street tune it to clean things up. You can hold the dyno in whatever cell you are tuning for real time tuning.

If you take it somewhere that can steady state tune your car then you won't need to street tune it to clean things up. You can hold the dyno in whatever cell you are tuning for real time tuning.

All my dyno tuning has been on a Dyno Dynamics which is a loadable dyno. It is nice to get to experience how it works and how easy it makes tuning. When I brought my car in last time to finalize the tune he showed me an example of the loading system and did a 3rd gear pull that lasted quite a while, similar to when I would do a 3rd gear pull up a 15% grade.

I'm doing a build somewhat similar to that... I'm going aem ems... for the simple fact that I already understand how it runs mostly and my tuner is most comfortable with it...


Also I wanna learn how to HARD TUNE aem.... like startup procedures and all

Unless the mods/setup NEEDs it (IE parts that can't be controlled by the oem ECU like per cylinder AFR and per gear timing, WGDC, fuel), you're pretty much wasting time and money. There are so many beneficial and tweakable features on the OEM that its kind worthless going after market.

+1 for Pirouz too. The guy is good and honest. ALWAYS log street after dyno as the air dynamics and real world loading is so different than a standstill on rollers.

Per Cylinder AFR is called Per Cylinder Pulse Width Compensation and can be handled by RomRaider.

Yeah I know, I use it (based on a very caveman approach of reading my plugs) but RR can't monitor 4 afr's and then use the ECU to provide correction, that's what I meant...

you'll get better mpg if you stay out of boost (:

IMO theres no reason to go standalone unless you're going in upwards of 500 whp

And then only if you really have a need that is not being met.

you'll get better mpg if you stay out of boost (:

IMO theres no reason to go standalone unless you're going in upwards of 500 whp