I have read through the threads on here about things to make the 08 STi handle better, but most of them would put me right out of AS. Is anyone running AS and have any suggestions on how to fix the understeer?

I am going to be running a set of RE-01Rs that I picked up from the TireRack sale, but other than that, the car is bone stock right now. When I get the tires mounted I will be getting a good alignment to help. My first event is at the end of April, so I have a while before I turn a wheel in anger and see how the car handles for me.

Last season I ran an 03 Acura TL Type S in STX and just showed up and ran, no changes to the car all season, so I am not 100% on how each change is going to feel yet.

Well you probably won't be competitive in AS without r-comps unless there aren't any fast drivers in that class in your region. Other wise all you can really do is find some aftermarket struts if there are any yet and a big front sway bar.

Unless you get a very good deal or are 100% sure you plan to stay in AS, I wouldn't run out and buy struts yet.

IDK about the STi but on the WRX, driving style can minimize the understeer issues, as can some tweaking of tire pressures. A big FSB is a cheap improvement on the WRX, so I assume the same for an STi.

The idea with tire pressures is to go with the optimum pressure for good grip at the front and to go either above or below optimum to dial in less grip at the back. I believe there is a difference between going high and low at the back, but it's beyond me.

the 08 STi is very good as it is for AS class. I came in first place in my 07 STi 2 years in a row up here in the alaska SCCA chapter. My wife has an 08 STi but she can't leave well enough alone lol. She was AS for like one event and then switched to STU(ladies). I did get a chance to drive it for one run during fun runs and I was off my best time in my 07 by less then a second.

So if people wanna say you can't be competetive with an 08 STi in AS. I say your wrong. Your really only being held back by yourself.

I won't argue though that a modified car is better. I'm going BSP this solo year. My wife's going to SM(ladies) class with her 08. I'm going to do all I can without having to be classed in SM.

Smooth is fast. :D

My wife and I are running our '08 in AS this year. We have a bigger front bar (32mm Niles bar) and have done an alignment as well. We've only ran one event so far, and it was on the stock tires, but I thought the car handled pretty well. That's really all we are going to do to the car this year except that we'll eventually be running on r-comps, but I plan on at least one more event on the street tires.

My wife and I are running our '08 in AS this year. We have a bigger front bar (32mm Niles bar) and have done an alignment as well. We've only ran one event so far, and it was on the stock tires, but I thought the car handled pretty well. That's really all we are going to do to the car this year except that we'll eventually be running on r-comps, but I plan on at least one more event on the street tires.

first time my wife ran her 08 with my race rubber, I thought she was going to die. guess I should have warned her about needing to warn them up first :devil: but it was to funny.

Why not run in STU? Better pax index.

I codrove an '08 STi in AS at Nationals this past year. The car was fully prepped: custom double adjustable shocks, Niles front sway, custom alignment, 295/35-18 Hoosiers.

While I didn't have too much involvement with the setup, as it was the car drove great! The '08's rotate much better so I didn't really feel a whole lot of understeer. At least, not as much as in my '06 STi that also fully prepped for AS.

Justin

I codrove an '08 STi in AS at Nationals this past year. The car was fully prepped: custom double adjustable shocks, Niles front sway, custom alignment, 295/35-18 Hoosiers.

While I didn't have too much involvement with the setup, as it was the car drove great! The '08's rotate much better so I didn't really feel a whole lot of understeer. At least, not as much as in my '06 STi that also fully prepped for AS.

Justin

How did the car do compared to the class winners?

I think raw times were pretty close to the top times. Couldn't have been more than 0.5 - 0.6. We also did not have a lot of setup time with the car.

*EDIT - that's for the east course, I don't remember the west course times.

I codrove an '08 STi in AS at Nationals this past year. The car was fully prepped: custom double adjustable shocks, Niles front sway, custom alignment, 295/35-18 Hoosiers.

While I didn't have too much involvement with the setup, as it was the car drove great! The '08's rotate much better so I didn't really feel a whole lot of understeer. At least, not as much as in my '06 STi that also fully prepped for AS.

Justin

Was that this one?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Getagrip777/2008%20SCCA%20Solo2%20Nats%20in%20Topeka/20080916_XTi_001017.jpg

my co-worker Jake was there last year. This is him.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Getagrip777/2008%20SCCA%20Solo2%20Nats%20in%20Topeka/20080918_Reb_015948.jpg

Was that this one?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Getagrip777/2008%20SCCA%20Solo2%20Nats%20in%20Topeka/20080916_XTi_001017.jpg
^Yep, that's me driving actually. :)

I got to watch a couple of your friend's runs before I took off. Man those SM2 cars haul some serious arse! :eek:

I'm actually running the street tire class of AS, so I will not be racing up against people on A6s. I want to stay in stock so that the focus is on driving more than what was done to the car. This is my second season and I know I have a lot to learn, so I want to focus on getting better personally.

I want to get a few races in with the stock bar on it so that I can feel the difference when I put a new one on. I have heard a lot of different comments about the size of the new bar, from 24-34, solid and hollow, I guess it is all down to personal preference and driving style, but as of right now I have no idea what size to go with.

Other than that, I am thinking about exhaust, short throw shifter, filter, and a MaxQ. Probably will do the MaxQ first and the rest as cash allows. I will prolly not mess with the shocks at all this year, maybe for 2010.

295? WTF? Seriously? I can't believe those fit under the car! Do they rub all over the place?

I'm actually running the street tire class of AS, so I will not be racing up against people on A6s. I want to stay in stock so that the focus is on driving more than what was done to the car. This is my second season and I know I have a lot to learn, so I want to focus on getting better personally.

I want to get a few races in with the stock bar on it so that I can feel the difference when I put a new one on. I have heard a lot of different comments about the size of the new bar, from 24-34, solid and hollow, I guess it is all down to personal preference and driving style, but as of right now I have no idea what size to go with.

Other than that, I am thinking about exhaust, short throw shifter, filter, and a MaxQ. Probably will do the MaxQ first and the rest as cash allows. I will prolly not mess with the shocks at all this year, maybe for 2010.

295? WTF? Seriously? I can't believe those fit under the car! Do they rub all over the place?

1st fill out the rest of your profile please.

That would avoid me asking what region you are running in.
I am basically doing the same thing you are here with the Milwaukee Region SCCA. I picked up a set of closeout RE01R's in 265-35-18 that I will run with an AS index in our Street Tire Class.

Bart

What's this street tire AS class? I'm planning on running my stock '08 STI in STU since PAX is more favorable, and I don't plan to spend money on R-compounds.

What's this street tire AS class? I'm planning on running my stock '08 STI in STU since PAX is more favorable, and I don't plan to spend money on R-compounds.

A lot of local regions offer an indexed class where you can run your stock class index, but have to run on street tires. We have very well subscribed street tire indexed classes here in the northwest.

yeah check your local SCCA chapter on tire allowance rules for class.

local chapter here, I doubt I could run P295 wide tires in AS here. I had to make sure the tires I ran were street compound tires in stock tire size.

yeah check your local SCCA chapter on tire allowance rules for class.

local chapter here, I doubt I could run P295 wide tires in AS here. I had to make sure the tires I ran were street compound tires in stock tire size.

If you are in a class running with a stock class index, tire width is free, but you have to be running wheels that are the same diameter and width as stock and an offset +/- 1/4"

I'll be running the same 295/30R18 R-compound tires as the previous poster as well.

If you are in a class running with a stock class index, tire width is free, but you have to be running wheels that are the same diameter and width as stock and an offset +/- 1/4"

I should clarify that. Those are the SCCA rules. It is my understanding that local chapters are free to have classes that serve their membership, so it is possible that tire width would be restricted, but I think that would be rare.

What region is the op running with?

You can't change much hardware and still stay in A-stock. Front sway-bar is about it. You can also change to other wheels but they must be close to the same size as stock and of course, there are the tires. But the biggest performance factor is the person behind the wheel. Once you can get to within 10 seconds of the leaders, I think that you can then use $$ to help close the gap. R compound tires will be good for 2 seconds. Front sway bar might get you another 1-second gain. And a better alignment might get you yet another. I think that the key is driving style. Here are two perspectives on how to drive this car.

1. First is from a German TV show, DMAX but it has english subtitle.s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sowNOfZcKTQ

2. Second is from EVO magazine, an excellent UK based magazine. Here is what they say and the link as well.

"There’s a certain amount of roll as you turn into a corner too, so there’s a moment before you really feel the chassis start to bite and the steering start to feed back. If you’re timid or just ambling along, then the Subaru can seem slightly reluctant.

What you need to do is be bold; turn in hard and, once into the meat of the steering, you’ll feel the front Dunlops grip and possibly scrub a little into understeer if you’re carrying good speed. As soon as you’re into the corner you should be thinking about getting back on the power. With 300lb ft you’re not short of urge whichever gear you’re in, so it’s just a case of how you deploy it. The slightly slow-acting viscous coupling of the central diff works best if you progressively squeeze the throttle to the carpet rather than just jumping on it. This way you’ll feel the tail move round before the front pulls you out of the corner in one smooth flow.

There is of course another way to approach a corner, which is to trail-brake as you turn in. The brakes make a slightly odd sound (like a huge computer powering down) but with the weight over the front axle the steering weights up instantly and the rear swings round nicely as you turn in."

http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/cargrouptests/220788/subaru_impreza_wrx_sti_type_uk_versus_mitsubishi_e vo_x_fq300_sst.html

PS: I will be competing in A-stock this year as well. I want to spend the first part of the season working on my driving form and then see if I need to spend more money and if so, where. Good luck and keep us all posted on what works for you.

Ok, so something that is odd here is that people are saying to put a fat bar up front (only legal bar in AS) and that would make it understeer more, wouldn't it?

Thanks for posting the articles and video, those say pretty much the same things that I have heard all over, you have to really just chuck the car into the corner to get it to handle the way you want.

I am going to be running the Minneapolis Autocross Club (MAC) again this year, and might run to an event in the Milwaukee region. MAC runs the street tire cars independent of the cars that are running on slicks.

Ok, so something that is odd here is that people are saying to put a fat bar up front (only legal bar in AS) and that would make it understeer more, wouldn't it?

Thanks for posting the articles and video, those say pretty much the same things that I have heard all over, you have to really just chuck the car into the corner to get it to handle the way you want.

I am going to be running the Minneapolis Autocross Club (MAC) again this year, and might run to an event in the Milwaukee region. MAC runs the street tire cars independent of the cars that are running on slicks.

Our front camber curve sucks, so reducing body roll tends to increase grip.

Ok, so something that is odd here is that people are saying to put a fat bar up front (only legal bar in AS) and that would make it understeer more, wouldn't it?

Thanks for posting the articles and video, those say pretty much the same things that I have heard all over, you have to really just chuck the car into the corner to get it to handle the way you want.

I am going to be running the Minneapolis Autocross Club (MAC) again this year, and might run to an event in the Milwaukee region. MAC runs the street tire cars independent of the cars that are running on slicks.

Well I am not planning on running a front bar, so if you come down and race in Milwaukee we can compare if you do. I will be running the Street Tire class with the AS index.

Our front camber curve sucks, so reducing body roll tends to increase grip.

I appreciate the information, but at the risk of sounding like an idiot, what does 'Our front camber curve sucks' mean?

Also, I am going to go get the car aligned, and recommendations on how to set this thing up? I have to daily drive it, so it can't have too aggresive of a toe or camber. I just ran my last car with a stock alignment, so I have no idea on where to start here.

I appreciate the information, but at the risk of sounding like an idiot, what does 'Our front camber curve sucks' mean?


Its how the camber is maintained during shock travel (like when the car body rolls during cornering).

Oh yea, and HI everyone :)

My name is Matt, and I'm actually co-driving the OP's car this year with him... so will be lurking this board a lot to help get the car sorted this year.

Josh pretty much hit at my main question in his last post. I haven't seen any definitive alignment setups with reviews posted so far...

I come from an AS s2000 where we run really off the wall settings (camber:-1.5f/2.5r, toe: 0front, 1/4 in rear, caster: maxed). I have some autox experience but I am a total freshie to this drivetrain. Is it typical to set some rear toe out or front toe in to get an STi to rotate?

Big bar and lots of camber (as much as you can get in front) is where I'd start. My car ATE tires before we put the front bar on.

Also, if anyone has good experience in an STi in AS form... when do they typically understeer? entry/exit/steady state?

I confuses me why people add a bigger front sway bar to fix understeer due to a bad camber curve. Why no just add more camber to keep from getting close to positive, and give up the straight line grip? its all wheel drive so I cant imagine it would be that bad. Maybe quick transitions go to crap like slaloms?

Edit: just realized also, stock camber adjustment is pretty limiting maybe?

You can only get about -1.5 in stock form. Sometimes more, sometimes less.

It understeers everywhere :)

Man, you make this car sound like it handles so well! :)

It would handle better in STU :)

Yeah, but STU prep is a lot more $$$ than AS prep. As was noted earlier, all you can really do in AS is a FSB, wheels and tires. Legally you can also do shocks and a CBE, but unless you are dropping some serious pounds on the CBE, there's no performance advantage. Shocks kind of make the AS as a cheaper alternative argument moot.

It would handle better in STU :)

All those mods to make your car less streetable and slower on the autocross course.....

AS Pax: .843
STU Pax: .836

It may be argued that the car is more competitive in STU, but I'll stick with being able to drive faster on the course and keeping some money in my pocket.

I'd have to do the math, but with the tire appetite my car had, I think it would have been cheaper to run STU.

I'd have to do the math, but with the tire appetite my car had, I think it would have been cheaper to run STU.

Without a larger FSB, I'd certainly buy that. I think the theory behind the larger FSB is multiple: It helps eliminate body roll, thereby helping in transitional elements, and by keeping the camber curve more favorable, it ends up helping in the sweepers as well. Also, as a side effect, less body roll (better camber) = less tire wear.

I'm running the 32mm Niles bar, but I'm going to be using R-Comps. If I was running AS on street tires, I'd think about a 29mm Niles bar, or maybe a 27mm. I couldn't believe how small the stock swaybar was.

As for alignment, I think mine is somewhere around 1/8" toe out front and back - maybe slightly more. It seems to handle pretty good on the stock tires - hopefully that translates to the r-comps.

So I have occasionally seen some STi's up in national level competition in AS. Anyone know what they usually do? My guess would be a big front bar and custom valving for ultra stiff rear shocks?

It seems like you could minimize how much steady state sweeper time you have with a front end thats too stiff by doing that.



Hopefully all of this will be less of an issue with the lower grip of street tires.

So I have occasionally seen some STi's up in national level competition in AS. Anyone know what they usually do? My guess would be a big front bar and custom valving for ultra stiff rear shocks?

It seems like you could minimize how much steady state sweeper time you have with a front end thats too stiff by doing that.



Hopefully all of this will be less of an issue with the lower grip of street tires.

I've heard talk about steady state sweepers in autocross - it seems like the actual time spent in "steady state" on an autocross course sweeper is very, very minimal. Certainly nothing like you'd see on a road race course. Is it even worth thinking about that much? Maybe the real definition of steady state sweeper is different than the one in my head.....

I've heard talk about steady state sweepers in autocross - it seems like the actual time spent in "steady state" on an autocross course sweeper is very, very minimal. Certainly nothing like you'd see on a road race course. Is it even worth thinking about that much? Maybe the real definition of steady state sweeper is different than the one in my head.....
I could see that impression coming from certain regions... like maybe steel cities back when I was there, but there several locations here in the Twin Cities area where we often have 70+ second courses with long sweepers resulting in a couple seconds of steady state. It makes a difference since it heavily dictates how you need to plan you corner entry and exit and transitions too/from other elements.

Regardless... I dont think it matters much since shocks arnt really in the budget AFAIK. I was just kinda curious, cuz I know I've seen national level STi's that are on par with the s2000s in AS.

All those mods to make your car less streetable and slower on the autocross course.....

AS Pax: .843
STU Pax: .836

It may be argued that the car is more competitive in STU, but I'll stick with being able to drive faster on the course and keeping some money in my pocket.PAX is set off of the fastest car(s) in the class... and in AS, that is not the STi.

ProSolo, different story :)

So I have occasionally seen some STi's up in national level competition in AS. Anyone know what they usually do? My guess would be a big front bar and custom valving for ultra stiff rear shocks?Ohlins fixed-perch struts, Whiteline or Niles front bar, 275/40-17 Hoosier A6's, catback, alignment. For the Ohlins, they ran the front soft and rears at or near full stiff. This in conjunction with toe-out all around. The shock and alignment settings will change depending on driver preference and driving style, but that's pretty much it.

It seems like you could minimize how much steady state sweeper time you have with a front end thats too stiff by doing that.I was never able to fully eliminate steady state understeer, but it was definitely minimized with the above setup. It's important, though, to run the front shocks relatively soft. Too stiff and the front wants to wash out. You have a big bar, let it do it's job! ;)

Justin
PS - It wasn't my STi at the top 'o Nationals :( but my setup is virtually identical to theirs.

Does Ohlins have a fixed perch setup for the GR (I don't think they do)?

Vorshlag can convert either their single or double adj AST's into a Stock class- that's what you guys ran wasn't it?

Also another option for dampers would be Koni- there are a couple of guys running custom Koni setups for A Stock

yet another option for the 08/09 STi would be using the Koni Sport LGT front inserts in the STi housings- a little more work involved as it's a inverted strut, but doable. The LGT Koni rears should work as well (might have to swap the shock bushings out)

bigger front bar is a given IMO, Nyles makes nice bars (practically any size you want)- Whiteline also has a couple of mid sized front bars

max out the front camber (it's not much, but you want every 1/10 th you can fight for)- there are a few tricks to eek out a little more

I think in the right hands, the GR could be very competitive in AS :)

[...]Here are two perspectives on how to drive this car.

[...]

2. Second is from EVO magazine, an excellent UK based magazine. Here is what they say and the link as well.

"[...]

What you need to do is be bold; turn in hard and, once into the meat of the steering, you’ll feel the front Dunlops grip and possibly scrub a little into understeer if you’re carrying good speed. As soon as you’re into the corner you should be thinking about getting back on the power. With 300lb ft you’re not short of urge whichever gear you’re in, so it’s just a case of how you deploy it. The slightly slow-acting viscous coupling of the central diff works best if you progressively squeeze the throttle to the carpet rather than just jumping on it. This way you’ll feel the tail move round before the front pulls you out of the corner in one smooth flow.

[...]"

[...]
Wow.. EVO usually does a decent job of reporting.. but this is just crap. Subaru hasn't put a viscous diff in the STI since the 90s.

We were thinking square in the front, and some toe out in the back originally.

Whats the reason for toe out up front? Is it manageable to do less than 1/4 toe out front and rear? This car is still daily driven...

We were thinking square in the front, and some toe out in the back originally.

Whats the reason for toe out up front? Is it manageable to do less than 1/4 toe out front and rear? This car is still daily driven...

My understanding is that toe out in front gives you quicker turn in, and also probably having some effect of the inside tire being turned more than the outside tire allowing the tires to roll around a common point in a turn (see ackerman), which is helpful in turning.

We daily drive ours and have somewhere around 1/6" toe in the front and don't see too much issue - Tire wear may eventually be a problem, though.

typically w/ the low camber numbers offered by the stock hardware- toe is less of an issue (than w/ higher camber numbers)

toe still remains the most likely culprit in tire wear, but higher camber number seem to exacerbate it- I found out the hard way w/ my old STX car- running ~ -2.5 up front I got away w/ ~ 3-4 mm toe out f/r w/o too much extra wear, increasing the camber to -3.0-ish (w/ the same toe numbers) ruined a couple of tires before their time :(

^^ yes toe out front helps w/ turn in

I was recently told to check out the factory service manual for something called 'crash bolts' to try and get a bit more front camber, anyone know if the STi has these?

I was also advised that I should reduce my camber to -1 in the rear and go with 1/8in toe out, anyone have anything to say about either of these things?

Rear camber is not adjustable in stock form.

In the front, the stock upper strut bolt is adjustable for camber, so dial that in for the max you can get...it won't be enough anyway.

Rear camber is not adjustable in stock form.

In the front, the stock upper strut bolt is adjustable for camber, so dial that in for the max you can get...it won't be enough anyway.

Are you talking about the 08? I had it adjusted a few weeks ago, and I was able to watch the guy make the adjustments... So either he was just going through the motions and dicking with me, or the 08 is adjustable...

Are you talking about the 08? I had it adjusted a few weeks ago, and I was able to watch the guy make the adjustments... So either he was just going through the motions and dicking with me, or the 08 is adjustable...

According to this thread (http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspension-handling-stiffening/161786-adjusting-camber-noob-question.html), the rear suspension is not adjustable stock, but I can't verify that myself.

As waktasz said, the front struts have the adjustable bolts already in place, but you can only expect to get -1.4 degrees give or take. If you want to see how it works, just pull out the bolt and you can see how it changes the camber as it turns. I set it to the maximum camber myself and aligned the toe using the string method. I have about 1/8" toe out rear and about 5/16" toe out front.

I'm not sure about the camber not being enough. I guess it is all relative, because with a stiff front swaybar, tires heat cycle out before the cord. If it is a general performance complaint, I guess I would say there are limitations with most stock class cars. Personally I think the STi is a blast to drive in Stock class.

String alignment method

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1093484

Are you talking about the 08? I had it adjusted a few weeks ago, and I was able to watch the guy make the adjustments... So either he was just going through the motions and dicking with me, or the 08 is adjustable... You had Jeff do the alignment, right? Sorry to ask the obvious, but are you sure it was camber he was adjusting in the rear, not toe? If you are watching the readout while he's doing it, the camber will move slightly as the toe is adjusted. The rear setup is entirely different than my '05 was, but afaik, there is still no way to adjust camber from the factory. Maybe loosen some bolts and pull on the wheel to try to tweak it a tenth or two. Do you have a printout from your alignment showing before and after settings?

From the 08 service manual:

• Front and rear toe-in and front camber can be
adjusted. Adjust if the toe-in or camber tolerance
exceeds specifications.
• Other items indicated in the specifications is not
equipped with adjustment mechanisms. If other
items exceed specifications, check the suspension
parts and connections for deformation, and replace
with new parts as required.

ie, front toe, rear toe, and front camber are adjustable. Not rear camber.

I was recently told to check out the factory service manual for something called 'crash bolts' to try and get a bit more front camber, anyone know if the STi has these? Crash bolts are basically a camber bolt that is intended to adjust camber beyond the typical factory range. Used to correct for bent suspension parts after crashing (hopping a curb, whatever.) Some manufacturers list this as an approved service procedure, making it stock-class legal, unfortunately Subaru is not one of them.

All those mods to make your car less streetable and slower on the autocross course.....

AS Pax: .843
STU Pax: .836

It may be argued that the car is more competitive in STU, but I'll stick with being able to drive faster on the course and keeping some money in my pocket.

That's not true. STU cars are surpassing AS in results in some events.

You had Jeff do the alignment, right? Sorry to ask the obvious, but are you sure it was camber he was adjusting in the rear, not toe? If you are watching the readout while he's doing it, the camber will move slightly as the toe is adjusted. The rear setup is entirely different than my '05 was, but afaik, there is still no way to adjust camber from the factory. Maybe loosen some bolts and pull on the wheel to try to tweak it a tenth or two. Do you have a printout from your alignment showing before and after settings?

Yup, Jeff did the alignment for me, and yes, I have the printout. My settings are:
Front
Camber -1 -1.2
Toe -.04 -.06
Caster 5.1 5.3

Rear
Camber -1.4 -1.1
toe .01 -.01

I guess the only way to solve this is to ask Jeff to adjust the rear to a certain setting and see what he can do. Everyone seems to have anecdotal evidence from their pre-08 version of the car, and also acknowledges that the 08 and 07 are different.

The rear camber is not adjustable.

Here is my alignment specs (with me in the car).
Front toe 0
Front left camber 1.4
Front right camber 1.8

Rear toe 0
Rear left camber 1.1
Rear right camber 1.2

I am running the local AWD Street Tire class on an AS index. This car is very competitive in stock form, and dominates in the rain.

Must not be any S2k's or Solstii's in your region :p

I'm not sure about the camber not being enough. I guess it is all relative, because with a stiff front swaybar, tires heat cycle out before the cord. If it is a general performance complaint, I guess I would say there are limitations with most stock class cars. Personally I think the STi is a blast to drive in Stock class.

Not in my experience. The tire were clearly wearing at a much faster rate on the outside edge. Our Hoosiers lasted 5 events (with codriver) before cording in front...granted that was on some nasty asphalt/concrete events, but still. The 710s looked to be lasting much longer, but I didn't keep the car for long enough to find out how long because it was burning a quart of oil a week.

When the car rolls like this, even with a big front bar, you need all the camber you can get.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/waktasz/IMGP8568.jpg

Not in my experience. The tire weres clearly wearing at a much faster rate on the outside edge. Our Hoosiers lasted 5 events (with codriver) before cording in front...granted that was on some nasty asphalt/concrete events, but still. The 710s looked to be lasting much longer, but I didn't keep the car for long enough to find out how long because it was burning a quart of oil a week.

When the car rolls like this, even with a big front bar, you need all the camber you can get.


Hmm, I'm not seeing that kind of body roll....

http://photos.juniormonkey.com/photos/506475869_MPTWS-M.jpg

I'm going faster than you ;)

I'm going faster than you ;)
:lol:
:lol:
:lol:

When the car rolls like this, even with a big front bar, you need all the camber you can get.c'mon, I thought that pic was before the bar... ;)

I have the printout... Everyone seems to have anecdotal evidence from their pre-08 version of the car, and also acknowledges that the 08 and 07 are different. Would need a "before" printout to see what he changed in the rear. Some shops give you this automatically, but looking back I guess I only have "after" printouts from him as well.

Yes the '08 rear is a completely different setup than prior years, and I personally have not poked around at it much yet. Not wanting to accept anecdotal evidence, I went to the service manual to look it up (and quoted above.) Beyond that, nationals-level autocrossers have been driving and doing alignments on the '08 since it came out a year and a half ago. Yours would be the first report of rear camber adjustment. To tweak the rear you would need something like the Whiteline rear camber kit - http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/162-%20P28.pdf - page 3, KCA326

To tweak the rear you would need something like the Whiteline rear camber kit - http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/162-%20P28.pdf - page 3, KCA326

And that would put me out of AS, right?

And that would put me out of AS, right?
Correct.

I'm going faster than you ;)

Ha! I should have seen that coming ;)

Sorry for the random question guys, but would the whiteline ALK put me out of STU? It usually does because it mounts the suspension in a different place, but is this the same with the 08 STI? Sorry for the stupid question and I do realize that the ALK usually puts you out. Thanks.

for the 08/09's it does not bump you- the rear bushing is simply replaced w/ an offset one
(they do make a "race" version that is pillowball- that one would not be ST legal)

Not in my experience. The tire were clearly wearing at a much faster rate on the outside edge. Our Hoosiers lasted 5 events (with codriver) before cording in front...granted that was on some nasty asphalt/concrete events, but still. The 710s looked to be lasting much longer, but I didn't keep the car for long enough to find out how long because it was burning a quart of oil a week.

When the car rolls like this, even with a big front bar, you need all the camber you can get.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/waktasz/IMGP8568.jpg

who do you run with? ive been running my 08 in AS with philly region and havent seen you once?

That's because I sold that POS last year and bought a real car :p

Is yours the white one?

Any others run this year?