So after a long 2 1/2 months my car will finally be done tomorrow.... Ugh, it feels like it's been a year. But Here's a list of everything i've put in it with pics, lemme know what you think! Thanks! :banana:
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Cosworth Bearings
Wiseco 99.75mm pistons
Ported Heads
TGV Deletes
ACT Clutch
ACT Street Lite Flywheel
New GT35R Rotated Turbo
Sparco Bar With 4-Point Harness
09 STi Oil Pump
ARP Head Studs
Gates Timing Belt

Before it blew up
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment20.jpg
One shytty night
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment5.jpg
Gettin ready to pull the motor
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment8.jpg
Number 4 piston
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment1.jpg
The Porting
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment9.jpg
The Goodies
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment90.jpg
Ready To Drop In!!!
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment21.jpg

What headers and radiator were you using when #4 let go?

i was/still am using stock headers and stock radiator. The only thing that i am putting on to cool it down is a massive oil cooler. I guess that the oil runs way hot on these....

The reason why it's mainly #4 and sometimes #2 to let go, is because those cylinders see higher tempertures then the others. EL headers has shown to equalize tempertures across all 4 cylinders. A good aftermarket radiator such as PWR will also help.

I would also parallel the fuel feed lines as well since you are already knee deep, and please tell me that you had the block machined to accommodate the new pistons

Yeah, one of the better machine shops here in SLC did it for me... I was real fortunate to still have a salvageable block. But when you talk about paralleling the lines, please elaborate? Sorry, i'm still learnin :unamused:

Yeah, one of the better machine shops here in SLC did it for me... I was real fortunate to still have a salvageable block. But when you talk about paralleling the lines, please elaborate? Sorry, i'm still learnin :unamused:

if you look at the stock routing, it is run in series...the one closest to the feed has the most pressure and then I think #3 is the last in the line. This is almost always the reason for #3 taking a dive when you run lean. In other words, you would wanna "t" it off at the feed and send it to both fuel rail at the same rate. make sense? I hope so, cus I am teh suxors on the computer and cannot draw a pic :lol:

also, I give you credit for askin for help instead of acting like you know what you are talking about like so many others do

The reason why it's mainly #4 and sometimes #2 to let go, is because those cylinders see higher tempertures then the others. EL headers has shown to equalize tempertures across all 4 cylinders. A good aftermarket radiator such as PWR will also help.

Interesting, can you point me to a thread / web page / whatever about that?

Thanks!

The reason why it's mainly #4 and sometimes #2 to let go, is because those cylinders see higher tempertures then the others. EL headers has shown to equalize tempertures across all 4 cylinders. A good aftermarket radiator such as PWR will also help.


I'm sorry but you are very incorrect.

Cylinders 4 and 2 have more timing than any other cylinder, with #4 getting the most. Sometimes up to 2 degrees more timing. This is done by Subaru because the knock sensor is right above cylinder 4. The Subaru knock strategy is a "reactive" system that responds to knock as it occurs with some learning. The idea is that if they can keep knock out of cylinder 4 (the one with the most timing), then the other cylinders are going to be knock free. THAT is why #4 fails the most and sometimes #2.

Flow tests of the factory intake manifold show cylinders #2 and 4 getting almost 20% more air than the other two. This would normally raise an eyebrow, BUT the factory exhaust manifold is longer on that side and also more restrictive. These differences balance the flow to the cylinders.

Paralleling fuel lines can be troublesome. If the fuel rails are not designed properly, a parallel system can create air pockets and cause misfires at idle and low loads as well as 'vapor lock' issues one on injector bank. I have had better results with the series setup and larger lines/rails. This ensures that the flow in the system doesn't cause any pressure variances at the injectors and eliminates the possibility for vapor lock on one side of the engine.

-Dominic

Cylinders 4 and 2 have more timing than any other cylinder, with #4 getting the most. Sometimes up to 2 degrees more timing. This is done by Subaru because the knock sensor is right above cylinder 4. The Subaru knock strategy is a "reactive" system that responds to knock as it occurs with some learning. The idea is that if they can keep knock out of cylinder 4 (the one with the most timing), then the other cylinders are going to be knock free. THAT is why #4 fails the most and sometimes #2.

-Dominic


If this was true, then all that is needed is to reduce timing in 4 and 2. Or is it?

What is the result of more timing in those cylinders? Hotter, leaner, and higher cylinder pressure?

Paralleling fuel lines can be troublesome. If the fuel rails are not designed properly, a parallel system can create air pockets [....]

Where do the air pockets hang out? What kinds of rails have you see this problem with, and what rails do you trust to work well?

I need to at least replace the hard fuel lines that come up through the driver's side of the intake manifold on my Legacy, to make room for a larger charge pipe from my FMIC. I figure as long as I'm doing that I might as well redo all the lines under the manifold, and I was planning to go parallel.

Thanks!

If this was true, then all that is needed is to reduce timing in 4 and 2. Or is it?

What is the result of more timing in those cylinders? Hotter, leaner, and higher cylinder pressure?

let's not totally thread jack here. If you want to start another thread, shoot me a link to it and we'll chat about it there. However, I think the timing thing is covered in the tuning section already.

Where do the air pockets hang out? What kinds of rails have you see this problem with, and what rails do you trust to work well?

I need to at least replace the hard fuel lines that come up through the driver's side of the intake manifold on my Legacy, to make room for a larger charge pipe from my FMIC. I figure as long as I'm doing that I might as well redo all the lines under the manifold, and I was planning to go parallel.

Thanks!
Agency Power's original side feed fuel rails had this problem. Let's continue this in another thread.

to much money for my pocket lol

to much money for my pocket lol
Yeah, tell me about it :eek:.... It's almost like having an overpriced girlfriend :rolleyes:. But She is runnin! I started her up yesterday and she will be tuned and runnin clean at noon sharp today! Can't wait!!!! Now the pain staking 1300 mile break in.... UGH!!!! I did have to sacrifice the passenger horn to run the oil cooler but it's a small price to pay for a potential oil overheating issue.... After spending this much, the last thing i wanna hear is a rod knock. BTW, if you paint it red, it makes it go faster :lol:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/streetdemon20_2007/GetAttachment10.jpg

So we now have the break in map on the car and it's finally driveable :taco:. When we were putting the base map on it, it saw 30% load, only 14 pounds of boost, and revved to 5k rpm... With that in mind it was putting down roughly 310 whp... So once we are all broken in, the car should be seeing upwards and around 500 whp, which may not seem worthy compared to many on this site, but for me it's exciting:D, especially since we're at 4500 feet in elevation...

nice. I think I"m going to build mine too. could you tell me where you got the specs for the assembly and where you bought your parts from :) (i'm researching and looking for best options)


THREAD ON FUEL RAILS/LINES:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=27071376#post27071376

I bought pretty much all the parts from a local shop here called rally sport direct, they are online www.rallysportdirect.com (http://www.rallysportdirect.com). But as far as the specs go, i didn't do the build myself unfortunately :rolleyes:, i had one of the master tech's at subaru do it for me on the side. I know you can get all the specs from alldata, but that is a dealer only item so i am no help there sorry :(...

i rode in this last night!! i want another ride after you get the tune

i rode in this last night!! i want another ride after you get the tune
Definitely man, I should have the tune on it in about 2 weeks or so, but we are all plannin on goin out to rmr to run when i break it in if you wanna come out and run with us? I am kind of concerned about running it cause of those stock axles so i might havta baby it off the line :huh: but should be a good time if you wanna come out with us?

Definitely man, I should have the tune on it in about 2 weeks or so, but we are all plannin on goin out to rmr to run when i break it in if you wanna come out and run with us? I am kind of concerned about running it cause of those stock axles so i might havta baby it off the line :huh: but should be a good time if you wanna come out with us?

I would leave the weak link in the axles, they are cheaper than a differential. As long as you dont side step the clutch, they will be fine. My buddy has stock axles in his car and it lays down 535wtrq...