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mike270
06-03-2002, 01:10 AM
There have been so many posts on this I don't know what is going on.

I have a lot of hesitation while cruising (I can tell when compressor switches on and off) so I was going to do the Grounding Mod. I don't know where to do it thought.

1. I was going to do one of the three screws by the suspension and then the two screws holding in the air box.

Does the three grounding spots sound good. Would that help me a lot???

Also where in the engine do I not want to do a grouding. Can I do a grounding directly onto the engine itself??

2. Also I was going to use 10 guage speaker wire. Is this big enough and what about the heat from the engine melting the wrapping. Would it get hot enough to melt the surrounding on the wire???

Thanks a lot

PntBllRS
06-03-2002, 01:28 AM
I did mine ummm...

one on the driver side strut tower,
another on a bracket that is on the drivers side of the exhaust mainfold i think,
and added another one to the stock ground just in front of the battery (one of the ones you scrape the paint from).

I think your spots are fine.

Oh yeah I added a 4th one to another bracket that hold the fuel lines in place. I dont have pics so I hope my descriptions are good enough. So I guess ones on the engine are alright. I dont think the wire covering will melt. It should be alright. Mine didnt anyway. I used 8 guage but a lot of ppl have used 10 guage so Im sure thatll work just fine too.

A lot of people didnt notice much change in the 02's though. I didnt either. A little though. I guess its worth it since you only spend like $3. ;) Good luck.

PntBllRS
06-03-2002, 01:29 AM
By the way I used to have a MY02 before it got totalled.

IggDawg
06-03-2002, 10:31 AM
The only points that I found really helped were ones on the engine. The theory is to get cleaner curruent to teh sensors, all of which are engine mounted. If you run a strap to the strut tower, the current from that point still has to travel through the engine mounts and whatnot. Try using these:

1) Put one under the bracket that holds teh fuel lines to the ontake manifold, just downstream of the filter. Slip the ring under the bracket, don't just screw it in on top.

2) There's a bracket that holds somje stuff coming from teh map sensor to the intake manifold. Just to the left (or the car's right)of the ignition coil pack. Again, slip a ring under the bracket.

That's all I got.

-IggDawg

GooseMan
06-03-2002, 10:50 AM
I can vouch for IggDawgs methods.....we did this on my car, using ONLY black wire (no ring connectors) and my car runs much happier now....no more hesitation, its smoother and *feels* more low end torquey (I know its not, it just feels that way cause the power is more linear now). And, I must be crazy, but I think I'm getting better mileage now! My last two tanks I've been squeezing out maybe 20-30km more (like 15 miles more)....:D

IggDawg
06-03-2002, 11:27 AM
Glad its workin for ya goosie. Next time you get your hairy arse down here, I'll do it up right for you.

I'm happy I did it on mine. I'd certainly reccommend everyone to try it. Unless you bolt it directly into the positive inlet to something, you really CAN'T hurt anything with this. you're just carrying current to osmeplace there's already current. You really have to screw up pretty hardcore to damage anything with this mod. I say skip the cleaning of the old ground points and just add new ones. cleaning the old ones didn't do much for me.

-IggDawg

rupteur7000
06-03-2002, 02:27 PM
did it, went to Ace hardware store to pick up a battery wire 4 gauge, big but bolts right up to the terminal and then the other side to the intake manifold, great $2.00 mod.

thanks IggDawg.

beethoven
06-04-2002, 11:03 AM
Originally posted by IggDawg
The only points that I found really helped were ones on the engine. The theory is to get cleaner curruent to teh sensors, all of which are engine mounted. If you run a strap to the strut tower, the current from that point still has to travel through the engine mounts and whatnot. Try using these:

1) Put one under the bracket that holds teh fuel lines to the ontake manifold, just downstream of the filter. Slip the ring under the bracket, don't just screw it in on top.

2) There's a bracket that holds somje stuff coming from teh map sensor to the intake manifold. Just to the left (or the car's right)of the ignition coil pack. Again, slip a ring under the bracket.

That's all I got.

-IggDawg

All I did was add a 10 gauge wire to the stock grounding point on the front chasis and one to the strut tower. No paint scraping, just ring connectors and a little dielectric grease, and it made a HUGE difference.

I had bad off-idle hesitation when the engine was cold. Now it has almost completely disappeared. It also runs through 3500-4000 RPMs much smoother (I've got to watch my speed now ;) ).

I did not do an ECU reset, nor did I do anything else to the car besides the SPG. I wanted to be sure that it was the SPG making a difference in the car, and not just the ECU reset. Sure enough...it works!

cammy712
06-04-2002, 08:56 PM
Its a pretty easy and cheap mod to do. It helped me lose hesitation around 3500. Just go to radioshack and get some 8 gauge wire and hook up a few connections it might help and it wont hurt.

Stealthbmbr
06-05-2002, 05:45 PM
You can try here too, on ours Igg.

netZ
06-10-2002, 03:51 PM
We found 4 grounding points that work best with our Ground Mod Kit. Driver shock tower, Intake Manifold, Ground Point near battery and the Firewall ground point.

http://www.dreamspeedonline.com/html/groundmodinstallation.htm


Originally posted by STEALTHBMBR
You can try here too, on ours Igg.