According to what I've been reading I should be able to easily break 14. Hell, there are people close to breaking 13's with fewer mods than I do.:mad:
I know I suck but I didn't know I was this bad...
Anyway, here's my time slip. ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated!

R/T... 1.766 (yeah, yeah)
60'... 1.967 (I really tried...:( )
330... 5.787
1/8... 8.983 @ 77.73
1000... 11.693
1/4... 14.017 @97.22

I have M2 turboback, Stage with Perrin Uppipe, Samco IC hoses and mbc at around 15 psi.

Now, I had blinking CELs on the way to the track for the first time when accelarating hard in 3rd but thinking that it's misfire code for having the Unichip, I just ran like usual. Could that have caused any problems other than me driving like miss daisy?
Launching was mostly done slipping around 5K.
Help wanted!

Doug

Originally posted by Dougeefresh
According to what I've been reading I should be able to easily break 14. Hell, there are people close to breaking 13's with fewer mods than I do.:mad:
I know I suck but I didn't know I was this bad...
Anyway, here's my time slip. ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated!

R/T... 1.766 (yeah, yeah)
60'... 1.967 (I really tried...:( )
330... 5.787
1/8... 8.983 @ 77.73
1000... 11.693
1/4... 14.017 @97.22

I have M2 turboback, Stage with Perrin Uppipe, Samco IC hoses and mbc at around 15 psi.

Now, I had blinking CELs on the way to the track for the first time when accelarating hard in 3rd but thinking that it's misfire code for having the Unichip, I just ran like usual. Could that have caused any problems other than me driving like miss daisy?
Launching was mostly done slipping around 5K.
Help wanted!

Doug

With a little work you should get to 13.7s or 13.8s. Try this:
1) Drive car and when tires are "hot" check pressure. Fill them per instructions inside door but add 3 lbs to each tire. The door panel is "cold" tire pressure.

2) Go to a paint store and purchase two gallon of Taulene. Go to filling station and add the two gallons of Taulene (don't spill it on your paint) and then fill up tank with highest octane gas they have. The Taulene will increase your octane rating since it is 114 octane. Two gallons of Taulene to a full tank 15.9 (13.9 gals gas) will equate to 95.6 octane if you added 93 octane and it will be 96.5 octane if you added 94 octane.

If you wish to only purchase one gallon of Taulene at about $5 or $6 that is fine to but only fill your tank 1/2 full. This should give you the same ratio.

3) Lower your boost to 13.5-14 psi

4) Reset ECU

5) Run car hard and do 2 or 3 WOT runs. Shut off car and then repeat. Part of the key to "tricking" the ECU is to go through 5 or 6 on-offs of the car while doing WOT runs.

6) Try and be as close to empty as you can be when you get to the track. If need be carry a gallon or two of gas in trunk with you just in case :) (higher octane with Toulene preferred).

7) Pick up a bag of ice at a store on the way to the track.

8) At the track purchase 2 or 3 gallons of the highest octane UNLEADED fuel they have in the car.

9) Put ice on intercooler to chill it. My preferred way is to lightly pack some ice through the hood scoop. You will need to get a feel for this as to how much to use. It will probably be a good idea to only use a little at a time and add more as needed. You will probably need to open the hood and knock the ice off right before your ready to stage as dripping water on the track will get you in trouble :)

10) Adjust boost up to 15.5 or 16 psi (you'll have to play to see what works best for your car).

The car should be good to go. If you get a good launch you should have a pretty good run. What I've described above is a rough overview of how to trick the ECU a little so that it doesn't pull timing from you. By running slightly higher octane with slightly lower boost prior to track day the ECU will settle itself in with something semi-agressive because it doesn't have a reason to pull timing. At the track with higher octane and slightly more boost and a chilled intercooler you shouldn't get timing pulled either.

This like I said is only a rough guide to what I found that worked for me. You can try smaller boost increases during each run.

Of course you will probably want to remove the spare tire and jack before racing and you can pull the floor mats and covers in the trunk prior to going to the track unless your goal is to run it like you drive it and then you can probably forget everything I just went over :)

Good Luck,
Carlo

PS Let us know how you make out next time.

You don't suck.

There is no substitute for practice,

Feather, don't drop the clutch unless you have spent enough time practicing (see above) to know when to drop and not bog, bogging kills 60 ft times and ultimately.....ET's!

If youre out for the fastest time possible keep your gas foot down while you clutch and shift (and please shift quickly), if you care about having your clutch last for long periods of time or just have mechanical empathy, completely ignore that last one...

Oh and a garden mister connected to your windshield wiper nozzle line severed with the tank filled with ice water makes a poor mans ghetto IC spray...:D Worked for ESX....

-DE

Just some ramdom points worth noting, your mileage (or E/T's) may vary...

Thanks for the tips guys!
One thing I found at the track was that I kept turning up the MBC to keep the same boost every run. On the way back from the track I was hitting over 18psi with the same MBC setting. With the same setting I was hitting only 15psi.

I ran full-trim with spare, jack, a sub and more with pump gas. I am not really interested in using race gas or taking out spare/jack to get lower ETs though.
My car feels slower now since I added a CAI:(
But it sounds much cooler:lol:

Doug

Originally posted by Dougeefresh
Thanks for the tips guys!
One thing I found at the track was that I kept turning up the MBC to keep the same boost every run. On the way back from the track I was hitting over 18psi with the same MBC setting. With the same setting I was hitting only 15psi.

I ran full-trim with spare, jack, a sub and more with pump gas. I am not really interested in using race gas or taking out spare/jack to get lower ETs though.
My car feels slower now since I added a CAI:(
But it sounds much cooler:lol:

Doug

Sounds like your going the wrong way with your boost. If you have to keep turning it up then the ECU more then likely is pulling your timing and altering your fuel. You will probably be much better of going back to 13 or 13.5 psi and doing an ECU reset. Sometimes (especially with our ECUs) LESS is MORE.

You didn't mention anything about the CAI in your first post. If your running a Unichip and CAI and you didn't get the Unichip programmed while being dynoed then I almost guarantee you ARE slower and maybe even hurting your car with a lean condition. Car whomever did the Unichip programming and ask if it's safe to run with your setup.

If your not going to loose weight or run anything other then pump gas then really the only thing you can do to improve your 1/4 time is PRACTICE and get your boost set at the optimum setting for you car.

Carlo

Yeah, I put CAI in after I came back from the track. I've read all about CAI not helping at all and even hurting performace and all but I had already purchased it and I said what the hell... so I put it in anyway.
I am keeping an eye on EGT and so far I haven't seen any changes from the stock air filter except the loud turbo whinning.:D
Shiv doesn't have a map for CAIs because it varies so much from one car to another.

And I think you are right about the boost. I should probably keep the boost constant and work on my launch first.

Doug

I do not understand this at all. I myself would love to get a 60' time of 1.97. You think you suck, when I ran with TXS stage 1, I got a 2.4-2.7 60' time, talk about really sucking. The only good here is I did get a low 14 1/4 (not sure of the exact time, but was ~14.3) with a 2.45 60'. If I could get even a 1.97, I would get in the 13's. Now I have TXS stage 2, with a CAI and going to Stage 4 and will try again, but with my launching I am not hoping for more than a low 14 or high, high 13. Maybe I should get the TXS guys to drive it :)

Originally posted by WhiteRX
I do not understand this at all. I myself would love to get a 60' time of 1.97. You think you suck, when I ran with TXS stage 1, I got a 2.4-2.7 60' time, talk about really sucking. The only good here is I did get a low 14 1/4 (not sure of the exact time, but was ~14.3) with a 2.45 60'. If I could get even a 1.97, I would get in the 13's. Now I have TXS stage 2, with a CAI and going to Stage 4 and will try again, but with my launching I am not hoping for more than a low 14 or high, high 13. Maybe I should get the TXS guys to drive it :)

What was your trap speed? No offense but I don't think you were trying to launch the car if you had 2.4~2.7 60' Maybe you were being too nice to your car;)
Still, 14.3 with 2.4~2.7 60' shows that your car's pushing more power than mine when I have more mods than you. Something's not right.
I am used to seeing people cutting 1.7~1.8 60' and even 1.6s. By no mean I expect to get 1.6s or even 1.7s but 1.8s I would like to have.
Full 3" turboback+unichip+crank pulley+samco IC shouldn't equal to 14s with 1.97 60', IMO. Or am I expecting too much???:confused:
Doug

with those mods on a good cool dry day you should be able to hit mid to low 13s... also given a good launch, low 1.8 or so...

just my 0.02

def

dug-e-fresh~ ur thing says u ran 13.097 at 103? the other day i used my buddies g-tech thing and it said i ran 13.9 at 108 and i looked at my speedometer too and it said around 108 or 107. so haha howd i get a worse time than u?

That's why I got confused.. There's two of you.
I was thinking "Didn't he hit 13s with just an MBC?"
Duh to me. They're not even spelled remotely similar.

Two of us? There is only ONE Dougeefresh!!!
(I think I already had an extensive discussion about this before with def:rolleyes: )
Anyway, yeah, this Dougeefresh can't do shiznit but that dug-e-fresh can drive!
or it's just that my car's a piece of **** :o :o
Hey, def, what's the secret of running low 13s with only stage 0?
Did you get a special edition Stage 0 or something?
I wish I could be like dug-e-fresh*sigh* :o :o

first of all, there is only one doug-e-fresh, and he is an old school rapper.

but as far as the i-club...i say it's the guy registered first, which is obviously DEF. he also has a faster car, which means he owns you.

so someone needs to change their name. :)

Originally posted by eric m.
first of all, there is only one doug-e-fresh, and he is an old school rapper.

but as far as the i-club...i say it's the guy registered first, which is obviously DEF. he also has a faster car, which means he owns you.

so someone needs to change their name. :)

Hmm. it looks like I registered earlier than you did.
Does this mean I own you?:rolleyes:

I'm the real dug-e... you other dug-e's are just imitating

so could the real dug-e please stand up and put one finger on each hand up....

Couldn't resist.... anyway,I have accepted Dougee, so I think its safe to say that everyone else should too!! j/k

hpracingwrx-

the Gtech is not the track. The Gtech supposedly measures ACTUAL speed (which would be an accurate statement) where a dragstrip measures TRAP speed. The term "trap" meaning: they use the time it takes you to cross the last 60ft of the 1/4... this time equates to an average speed to cover that 60ft distance. The average speed across that distance will be SLIGHTLY lower than the actual speed at the 1/4 mile mark... now this is where I have a problem with the Gtech...

See I own one too, a Gtech that is.... I have ran my car on the Gtech and I have had a best of 12.95 @ 110mph... I have ran the Gtech at the dragstrip... actual run: 13.33 @ 101, on the Gtech: 13.24 @ 108. Sooo... there you go... the Gtechs elapsed time is pretty acurate, within a tenth like they advertise, but the trap speeds are WAY off in my opinion...

Use it to test ET, but I would not quote mph off that thing unless I drove a Mustang or a Camaro... I think our AWD somehow throws it off....

As for secrets to run a low 13 with Stage 0, I have one, listen carefully.... for you may miss it, I have learned that this trick is worth 2-3 tenths in the quarter...

fold in your mirrors and push in your antenna. One time I forgot to do that, and I ran a 13.5, then I folded the mirrors in and my time dropped to a 13.3 on the very next run!!

My guess is 1 tenth per mirror and a 1 tenth for the antenna... :)

If you have not figured it out yet I am kidding. I do fold them in and push it down... but I dont believe they are worth that much... I just had that experience so I joke around about it......

Other than that, I do not do anything that different than anyone else. I take out my spare and jack and thats about it. I run the gas tank as low as I can... sometimes I still end up running with over a half a tank.... oh well.... and I always open the hood between runs to help prevent heat soak... I also do a mini-launch in the wet box... this works 2 fold, one its a little warm up to launching for real (especially useful when your waiting a while) and two, the main reason, is to pre-spool the turbo to full boost speed. After a full boost run, your turbo will spin for AWHILE, but all the time will be slowing in speed... sit too long and the turbines will have nearly 0 rotation. I pre-spool in the wetbox, so when I do my real launch I get full boost quicker as the turbo is still spinning pretty darn quick....

One other thing that I have been doing recently (with the oncome of warmer weather) is running the A/C defroster setting with the engine off. Switch the ignition on, but dont start the car.... flip the HVAC control the defrost (last setting:)) and turn the fan control to 1 or 2...

What this does is kick on the radiator fans while the car is not running. It helps circulate the hot air out from the engine bay... I would recommend watching the battery voltage though. I have a Blitz FATT that has a built in voltmeter, so I monitor that when I do this (also have a Bel 980 Radar detector that does the same thing)... I would cut everything off once you get down to about 11.2 volts. Your car should still start fine.... but anything less than that you will be flirting with a dead battery, or at least a non-starting car.

Just remember when you up to stage to switch it back off defrost as you do not want to have your AC compressor engaged when you run.... :)

my 0.02
def