It's probably been asked a million times, but how do I disconnect the daytime lights on my WRX? The dealer showed me where it was, but would not undo the the connector. it looks like it has 3 parts, and I cannot figure out how to get it apart without breaking it. Help!

You just have to unplug it. There's a bundle of cables plugged into the silver DRL unit (bolted to the passenger side strut tower). If you squeeze the plug right it'll unlock and you can just unplug the wire bundle. Study it awhile, you'll get it.

Whether you then remove the whole unit or just leave it unplugged is up to you... you can even put the cable back together but don't click it together and it'll look bone stock without letting the DRL's work.

This is written up on Scoobymods, too.

Ben

Just disconnect the DRL module. The one in the engine bay is not the actual DRL module. Take the glovebox out and you'll see a 10-pin molex connector on the right side. IIRC it's blue. Just pull it and you won't have DRL's anymore.

Calvin

Pulling the plug to the thing under the hood (whatever it is) is much easier. Study it long enough, you'll see there are a couple tabs you have to depress to "unlock" the plug. Piece of cake, no tools required. It knocks out the DRL's and doesn't involve removing the glovebox (hassle).

Ben

Just an FYI. . .pulling the one in the engine bay is fine. But if you upgrade your lighting, i.e. morettes or HID's, you'll have to pull the one behind the glovebox.

Calvin

ditto, did the same thing, see scoobymods.com, was easy.

Originally posted by cnk
Just an FYI. . .pulling the one in the engine bay is fine. But if you upgrade your lighting, i.e. morettes or HID's, you'll have to pull the one behind the glovebox.

Why?

Yeah - curious about that one too. Do you mean, you "have" to pull the one behind the glove box because you don't want your HID's to operate like daytime running lights?

Or do you "have" to because you should?

Or do you "have" to because most people prefer to?

I'm particularly interested because I have a set of Morette HID's on the way in a few weeks, and I haven't heard a firm answer on this one.

A lot of people who pulled the one in the engine bay had issues with the DRL's coming back on when they upgraded their lighting to HID's. The module in the engine bay doesn't actually control the DRL's. The actual DRL module is the one behind the glovebox. If you're going to do something, you might as well do it right the first time. It's only 7 screws to take out the glovebox. Takes less that 15 minutes to take it apart, pull the plug, and put it back together. You then don't have to worry about water getting into the open connectors or dirt/grime.

I put in my morettes with HID's about a month and half ago and pulled the module under the glovebox. Haven't had any issues whatsoever. :D

Calvin

Yeah - gotcha - that makes sense, I do remember reading about the mysterious "reappearing DRL's" now that you mention it. Yeah - glove box is easy to take off - was my first mod when I put in the air filtration "system" :rolleyes:

but if you so choose to keep DRL's on, you could, no? I kinda like having my lights on all the time. I know it's kinda lame, but I think it's helped me avoid a few close calls, and made some REALLY close calls, a little less 'close' if you know what I mean. And I think with HID, the dumb people are still attracted to bright-blue objects so hopefully they'll be able to see me!! (or be so distracted and run right into my car!!!)

HID's aren't designed to be operated at low voltages, which is how DRL's work. You run the risk of possibly blowing out your HID's. You could always just run with your parking lights on if you want. With morettes, they use a city light in the high beam lens for parking lights.

Calvin

Ahhhaaaa

duh- I should've thought of that! (smacks head) I forgot the DRL's are low voltage, so yeah, I imagine that must suck for HID's. So I guess it's probably best to disconnect the DRL module then for any HID install.

done and done.

Originally posted by CirrusWRX
I kinda like having my lights on all the time. I know it's kinda lame, but I think it's helped me avoid a few close calls, and made some REALLY close calls, a little less 'close' if you know what I mean. And I think with HID, the dumb people are still attracted to bright-blue objects so hopefully they'll be able to see me!! (or be so distracted and run right into my car!!!)

I ride my 'cycle with the high beams on ALL the time, 'cept at night, when I don't want to blind people. I've heard mixed reviews of how much more visible this actually makes me (it can make you invisible coming out of the setting sun, for example), but I do it anyway.

DRL's suck. I don't like not being able to dip my lights at night to signal oncoming traffic, and I don't like not being able to come into my apartment complex at night with just parking lights on so I don't shine my headlights in my neighbor's apartments (or in the drive-thru). Took me 2 days and 16 miles on the car to get fed up and disable them.

If you want your lights on, turn them on. I turn mine on if it's overcast or dusk or raining... I see the necessity of DRL's because I see so many people without their lights on when they should be on, but this just caters to the lowest common denomenator... too bad so many drivers are such morons that we all have to be saddled with DRL's.

Ben

Another FYI, my WRX has 10 screws holding on the glovebox (9 and a plastic one on the side). Once I got the glovebox out, I saw 2 large connectors, a blue one and a black one, on the right. The blue one did not match the description (mine is about a 5 pin), but I pulled it anyway. Nothing happened!! So, fearing that I had disconnected soemthing else, like the airbag or something, I re-connected it.....Guess I will try the underhood connector again.

just did mine

pull the glove box

on the right side, by the door, you'll immediately see 2 relay, one blue and one black

behind the blue on, behind the bracket, there's a black "box" with a white plug on the bottom

on top of the black box, you'll see a yellow sticker "Unite D R L" and some numbers.

unplug the white plug, Voila, let there be NO lights

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=122

Kastle - sounds like some people are having problems pulling just the one out of the engine bay -- I'll take a pic tomorrow and set it to you of the glove compartment (if I have time, tho it might not be until Friday)

sure thing :)

As the very first mod to my 2003 WRX wagon, I yanked the glovebox out and disconnected the DRL module. Along the way, I followed the instructions above (thanks all, especially TerenceT), and took a bunch of pictures. For anyone who isn't sure they want to do this without knowing exactly what they're getting into, lemme just say, it's really really simple. Some of the pics are below.

Edit: Looks like the pics are too big. If I figure out how to make the file sizes smaller, I'll post them. Otherwise, pm me if you want me to email them.

If you know where the module is, it is possible to reach in there and disconnect it without removing the glovebox. Doing it this way takes about 10 seconds.

Here are some of the pics that I took. I've had a few requrests for step-by-step kinda stuff, so I'll start with pics of the screws that need to be removed to take the glovebox out.

http://www.motojosh.com/screws01a.jpg

http://www.motojosh.com/screws02a.jpg

http://www.motojosh.com/screws03a.jpg

http://www.motojosh.com/screws04a.jpg

http://www.motojosh.com/screws05a.jpg

Here are the relays that you'll see when you remove the glovebox. The DRL module is circled (note that some people have reported being able to simply reach up behind the glovebox and disconnect this without removing the glovebox).

http://www.motojosh.com/relays02a.jpg

This pic shows the DRL module disconnected.

http://motojosh.com/disconx.jpg

Finally, I stuck the camera up above the relays to get a picture of the sticker on top of the DRL module. This would be hard to see without a mirror or something, but if you want to be absolutely 100% certain that you're disconnecting the right thing, the module will say this:

http://www.motojosh.com/drl.jpg

This one saved my but. Had my Hid's installed and the directions said the engine compartment drl disconnect was enough,WRONG! Today the pas side went out,boy was I freakin p.o'd. Came home jumped on the old I(nasioc)-club and there was the fix,thank god the pas side came back on after the disconect. Anyone had a similar experience? Hope it's fixed for good now,thanks Josh for the great pics,CHRIS.......:alien:

I was able to get to the connector without taking the glove compartment apart. It's a pain but you can reach up there with your left hand and slowly wiggle the connector out. Took about five minutes!!

regards

If you study the pix he posted you can see the relay without removing the glove box.

I just did this a minute ago on my 03 after reading this thread. I've been meaning to do it but was too lazy to spend 10 mintues removing the glove box. I looked at his pix for a few minutes went out to the car, looked it over, came back inside to check the pix again and pulled it. Worked like a charm. Thanks for posting the pix.;)

Originally posted by motojosh
The DRL module is circled (note that some people have reported being able to simply reach up behind the glovebox and disconnect this without removing the glovebox).


Are the glovebox screws all the same size so you don't have to worry about mixing them up?

Can you see the module without removing the glovebox, so you can be sure you disconnected the right thing?

Once disconnected, will it not rattle around, hitting anything and make noises?

Originally posted by WTypeRogerX


Are the glovebox screws all the same size so you don't have to worry about mixing them up?

Can you see the module without removing the glovebox, so you can be sure you disconnected the right thing?

Once disconnected, will it not rattle around, hitting anything and make noises?

All the screws are the same (except for the plastic one on the side).

You can see it, but just take the glovebox out to be safe... it really will only take you a few minutes.

No rattling from mine... if you are worried though, you can just secure it to something with tape or a zip tie or something...

I haven't taken my glovebox out yet, but looked behind it. I only see a brown color connector, not a blue one as in the pic. Is it possible they changed the connector colors on some of our cars?

I'll take out the glovebox tomorrow - had to wash my car today - not too often you get a 65 degree day in December!

You will not see the blue one with the glove compartment left in place. The plug you want is above those.

Put your head where the passengers feet would be then look up behind the glove compartment and you will see it. Its white with some green on it. Its a little hard to get at but you can do it without taking out the whole thing.

Originally posted by motojosh
http://www.motojosh.com/screws04a.jpg


Yeah, I could see the connector, but wasn't sure if it was the right one or would be able to get my fingers up there. The brown one is way far to the back when you are looking up (by the firewall). I ended up taking the glovebox off. Anyone doing this should also note that the glovebox light only works when the headlights are on (so don't waste time poking around behind the glovebox after you reattach it thinking you accidentally unplugged it).

By the way, what is this big fan thing? The HVAC heater?

:confused: I'm a bit confused.
Is disconnecting the device under the hood enough or is it necessary to also disconnect the relay behind the glovebox?
Or is it different depending on the model and year?

The module behind the glove box actually switches power to the DRL circuit. The component under the hood is just a resister pack in series with the DRL wiring. Thus, removing either should inactivate the DRLs, unless the electrical wiring has been otherwise modified.
I think it's probably better to remove the module rather than leave a live wire unconnected in the unprotected atmosphere of the engine compartment. It's also a bit easier to replace the module later (especially if you don't have to remove the glove box).

The DRL can be disabled without permanently disconnecting the DRL module. One of the wires (I believe it is the green wire at the corner of the connector) sends a ground to the module when the parking brake is applied. Use a meter to verify. Remove this terminal from the connector and wrap with electrical tape. If this wire makes contact with the chassis or ground, then the car thinks the parking brake is applied and the dash brake light comes on.
Back to the module: Now that the wire from the parking brake has been removed. The DRL will be on even when the parking brake is applied, so you will need to find a terminal that fits into the module (try Radio Shack). Add this terminal where the other one was removed, run to a switch, then to ground.
Now, the DRL will function as normal, except when the switch is closed to ground, and the dash brake light will also function as normal.

If you want to do this, rather than pull the wire out of the connector you can add a diode in series with it right at the DRL module, and add the switch on the diode-isolated side of the wire (closest to the module). This will allow for selective DRL operation without affecting the operation of the brake warning light.

I was going to do this with my 00'legacy. Will this still work with the glove box thing? Just wanted to ask before I took things apart.
Thanks!

All the info here is for the Impreza. No idea if the Legacy is the same or not. Try posting your question in the Legacy forum, perhaps you will get an answer there. You can also go to the Subaru tech site and download the manual for your car which will contain the info you need.

You can get to it behind the glove box by just reaching your hand up there and disconnecting it. It is a little eaiser said than done but it does take only about 5 minutes. Oh well it was worth it. I have hated those things since the day that I got my car. Thanks for the info and the pics.:D

Solomon,
The DRL module on the 00 Legacy is even easier to get to than on the impreza. It is located on the steering column. Simply get your head under the dash and you will see 2 modules attached to the steering column, one horizontal and one vertical. The vertical one has 2 connectors, one black and one white. Unplug the white one and the DRLs go away. Unpluging the black one totally takes out the lights.

Enjoy driving without DRLs

Tony

add a diode in series with it right at the DRL module
Damn I slept through electrical engineering class.
What size diode would I need?
Would this be how to do it?
1.Cut wire
2.Install switch
3.Wire diode to the two sides of the switch (can you install them backwards?)

Is this correct on how to install it?
Thanks,
Rob

add a diode in series with it right at the DRL module
Damn I slept through electrical engineering class.
What size diode would I need?
Would this be how to do it?
1.Cut wire
2.Install switch
3.Wire diode to the two sides of the switch (can you install them backwards?)

Thanks,
Rob

Not exactly-
1. Cut wire close to module
2. Install diode in series with cut wire, with the anode side toward the module
3. Connect the two switch terminals to the anode side of the diode, and ground.

Any general purpose diode from the 1N400x series should do, the x indicates the forward current rating. This is a low-current circuit so even a 1-amp diode would be fine, but by all means use a higher-rated one if you want. You can get them at Radio Shack.

Originally posted by johnboy
The DRL can be disabled without permanently disconnecting the DRL module. One of the wires (I believe it is the green wire at the corner of the connector) sends a ground to the module when the parking brake is applied. Use a meter to verify. Remove this terminal from the connector and wrap with electrical tape. If this wire makes contact with the chassis or ground, then the car thinks the parking brake is applied and the dash brake light comes on.
Back to the module: Now that the wire from the parking brake has been removed. The DRL will be on even when the parking brake is applied, so you will need to find a terminal that fits into the module (try Radio Shack). Add this terminal where the other one was removed, run to a switch, then to ground.
Now, the DRL will function as normal, except when the switch is closed to ground, and the dash brake light will also function as normal.


Maybe I missed something, but why is this method better than just unplugging the connector behind the glove box?

On another note, my connector looked more yellow than white when looking at it from below with my head in the footwell and a weak minimaglite. It's the obvious, most easily visible rearward connector that is right behind the dash on the far left side. Hope this helps someone save the few minutes it takes to remove the glovebox.

Adding the switch gives you the capability to turn on/off the DRL's whenever you want with the flick of a switch.

Calvin

Doh, I skipped right over the words "run to a switch".

I just installed my switch using the above instructions (no diode, just a switch on the dark green wire)
I installed my switch in the roof of the glovebox. The switch is a lighted switch ( I thought it would be cool ) which means it just adds a ground wire, no big deal.

The DRLs work like they are supposed to, switch on, the work like stock, switch off, they don't come on at all. Here is the interesting part, with the switch on and the DRLs working normally, the emergency brake will not disable them and the switch only lights up when the emergency brake is on. :confused:
I am fine with the way it works now, but I thought I would pass the info along.

Did anyone notice that the blue and black relays are made by Nissan? Mine are....


Originally posted by motojosh
http://www.motojosh.com/relays02a.jpg

Lots of stuff in the car is. Look at your window switches and then look at the switches in a Nissan.

I noticed that too - esp the heated seats switches, first thing I noticed. I just thought Subaru and Nissan probably got them from the same supplier, but I guess Subaru just loves to outsource!

Just feel like posting the same info here as well

I haven't gone to verify the DRL circuit on the MY02 or MY04, but I doubt it changed all that much. Unplugging the resistor do disable DRL, but it doesn't disable the switching logic that drives the headlight relay which ultimately flow power to the plug.

The DRL module in the glove box controls the headlight relay for supplying power, and another relay (call it DRL low beam relay) to determine which ground point the low beam should use. When the light switch is not on low beam, the actual ground for the bulbs go thru the resistor module before ground (this is unswitched). In this case, whether the light bulb turns on depends entirely on the main headlight relay, which is wired to the DRL module (and also the light switch). When the light switch is on low beam, it alters the DRL low beam relay to point the ground thru the light switch instead of the resistor module, and at the same time, enable power thru the main headlight relay.

It's kind of confusing without the service manual, but once I've seen the diagram and looking at it for hours, I think I've figured it

Hopefully this helps anybody trying to understand the DRL circuit - as for me, it's time to locate the actual wires, get some relays and off to rewire my DRL to drive the inner pair at half power on my morettes. Hope that wouldn't be too hard, as it's a necessary step to retain DRL and install HID.

kgb- very thorough explanation.
Just want to make a point regarding your proposed DRL high-beam mod-
First, I'm going by what I know about the DRL setup on our US model 02-up, I'm assuming as you did that yours is similar.
How are your HIDs wired- are they directly grounded and using the common headlight power? If so, while this is a good configuration for HID wiring, if you move the switched grounding output of the DRL module from the low beams to the high beams, your HIDs will still come on when the DRLs are activated. This is because when the DRLs are on so is the headlight power, even if the headlight switch is off. So, if your HIDs are wired in this manner you'll have to add a relay to switch them with the low beam circuit so they only come on when the headlight switch is on and not with the DRLs. Of course this will also mean that the HID/low beams will go off when your high beams are on. Fixing that would be difficult if you want to keep the DRL function.

Ah - I haven't mentioned how I'm going to make DRL run on highbeam now did I? ;) and no, currently I don't have HID because I haven't exactly sorted out my DRL.

My proposal is to splice the wire leading into the resistor module and use that for the inner pair, and make sure the control circuit for the HID relay doesn't go directly to ground, but rather go back to the light bulb wire (low beam or high beam, or a more complex setup depends on whether you have a dual beam HID kit)

The switched circuit on the HID relay should be directly grounded and fuse powered. (I'm making up some new words here :lol: )

As for why the DRL wouldn't make the HID go on in this case - it's all theoratical - is the Morettes. I know the 02 and 04 Morettes are different so your results will vary, but for the 00 Morettes, the inner pair (high beam only bulbs) are driven by relays, controlled by the high beam lead of the outer pair (dual beam bulbs). The exact logic for making this whole thing requires a diagram - the simpliest way to put it, is that the inner pair will now be driven by 3 relays instead of 1, to prevent overloading the combination switch (Subaru's terminology for the light switch) in the event of me not hooking the HID up at the same time as I do the DRL mod.

Yes, it's very complicated just to retain DRL and install HID - but I prefer to not lose the DRL seeing that I'm up north in Canada and you don't want one more things against yourself when it comes to lighting mod.

This might look very confusing, but let me try showing how the DRL worked without resorting to a diagram (graphical or text) just yet.... and speaking from a MY00 owner so apply necessary changes (H4 setup). I'm only concerning the low beam side for simplicity

stock lighting
1) common switched power controlled by a headlight relay, with separate ground for low and high beam. Those grounds are not direct grounds
2) low beam ground first go thru the DRL relay - this is a single pole double throw relay (or mixed type relay in service manual lingo). defaults to lead directly into the DRL resistor module and ground (thus no logic). When current flows thru the control circuit, the low beam ground will be switched into the combination switch, which ultimately controls whether the circuit gets completed
3) the control circuit for the DRL relay gets fused power and also grounds thru the combination switch on a different pin.
4) the combination switch has a lead to control the headlight relay.

Mode of operation
1) Light switch off, DRL off
Headlight relay is open, so no power at all to the bulb
2) Light switch off, DRL on
Headlight relay is now closed by the DRL module, but since the light switch is off, the DRL relay makes the low beam ground thru the resistor module
3) Light switch on, DRL off
DRL wants to leave the headlight relay open, but the relay is closed by the light switch. Also, DRL relay points the low beam ground thru the combination switch
4) Light switch on, DRL on
There is no conflict on the headlight relay as both the DRL module and the combination swtich wants the headlight relay closed, but the combination switch also redirects the DRL relay to ground low beam thru itself

High beam is a little bit more interesting - I would post later when I get home and study the diagram again.

If you're still with me, you obviously have a mindset that can construct the diagram thru words.... my friend got confused until I send him the diagram.

Ok, I think you have the right idea. As long as you control the HIDs from the low beam circuit but actually power and ground them directly they should work well and switch on and off as you intend.

Yes indeed - but apparently most HID kit instruction doesn't take into the account of the logic in a Subaru (and in fact, a few other cars as well) and suggests that the control circuit be grounded on one side with the other side coming from the low beam power. The switched circuit should always be direct for minimal loads (meaning that power comes directly from battery fused and ground goes direct without impeding logic)

Hmm... high beam is actually not that much more difficult
1) There is another relay for the high beam ground side after the bulb, and the control circuit is the same as the control circuit for the DRL relay on the low beam
2) If you flash your high beam with the light switch off, the combination switch will complete the control circuit for both relays, leaving the low beam circuit incomplete while keeping the high beam circuit closed
3) When the light switch is on, DRL is effectively disabled thru these two relays (ground points for both low and high beam now go thru the combination switch)
4) From 2), you can never have both low and high beam circuit complete because the relays ensure that the low beam is switched away from the DRL resistor when you flicker the high beam - that's only chance both circuit might be closed but the switch ensure that it doesn't happen. In other words, you cannot have the low beam completed thru the DRL resistor ground and the high beam completed thru the ground behind the switch.

Ouch, my head hurts now :lol: :lol:

thank you for making the diagrams. my hids came today and im about to get them installed! if it wasnt for you, my newbie retarded arse would have hids always on.

Someone should really put these instructions up on ScoobyMods. I went there first and did the engine bay version first and then I saw this thread. This mod seams more effective. I tried to reply on the ScoobyMods thread but it won't let me (even tho I'm logged in).

Anyway, thanks to all of you guys for finding (and posting) the in-depth version of this mod.

I just installed my switch using the above instructions (no diode, just a switch on the dark green wire)
I installed my switch in the roof of the glovebox. The switch is a lighted switch ( I thought it would be cool ) which means it just adds a ground wire, no big deal.

The DRLs work like they are supposed to, switch on, the work like stock, switch off, they don't come on at all. Here is the interesting part, with the switch on and the DRLs working normally, the emergency brake will not disable them and the switch only lights up when the emergency brake is on. :confused:
I am fine with the way it works now, but I thought I would pass the info along.

which green wire did you put the switch into?

i would like to do this, but there is an avacado-colored one, a green one, and a green with a stripe running into the plug that goes into the glovebox module... which one do i cut and install the switch into?

also, if i do this, will the ebrake not turn them off? what are you saying with the switch not lighting up?(my switch is just a switch, no led or anything on it, it's not lighted.)

someone please help

anyone?

That was quiet some time ago. Let me go look and do some quick testing to refresh my memory.

I can't see what wire I put the switch in, but it does function they way I mentioned. I think the lighted switch may have something to do with it. A normal switch may not do it. This post talkes about which wire to use. There is also some talk about diodes and such as well.

The DRL can be disabled without permanently disconnecting the DRL module. One of the wires (I believe it is the green wire at the corner of the connector) sends a ground to the module when the parking brake is applied. Use a meter to verify. Remove this terminal from the connector and wrap with electrical tape. If this wire makes contact with the chassis or ground, then the car thinks the parking brake is applied and the dash brake light comes on.
Back to the module: Now that the wire from the parking brake has been removed. The DRL will be on even when the parking brake is applied, so you will need to find a terminal that fits into the module (try Radio Shack). Add this terminal where the other one was removed, run to a switch, then to ground.
Now, the DRL will function as normal, except when the switch is closed to ground, and the dash brake light will also function as normal.

If you want to do this, rather than pull the wire out of the connector you can add a diode in series with it right at the DRL module, and add the switch on the diode-isolated side of the wire (closest to the module). This will allow for selective DRL operation without affecting the operation of the brake warning light.

so pulling out the socket of the DRL module.. behind the glove compartment box would disable the hand brake light?

so pulling out the socket of the DRL module.. behind the glove compartment box would disable the hand brake light?
NOPE

The parking brake light only comes on for 2 reasons:

1. The parking brake is on
2. You're low on brake fluid (or your brake pads are worn down, causing the fluid levels to go down since the caliper pistons have traveled further to get the pads to contact the rotors.)

Disabling the DRL will not affect the parking brake warning light.

I ran a wire from pin #8 (see WRX service manual) on the DRL module to a switch (to ground) with an LED in series and mounted the whole thing in the snap-out cover where the DCCD switch would go on the center console. Pin 8 on the module is used as a ground path for Auto tranny WRXs when the tranny is in PARK (lights off). Pin 8 is not used in the manual trans but the modules are the same. So when I want the DRLs off, I push the switch, the red LED lights, pin 8 is grounded. Pust the switch again, pin 8 is not grounded, LED is off, and DRLs work normally.

by pulling that socket out, did any of you guys have trouble starting the car? like the battery's out? i'm starting to have that problem after that.

anyone?

Then you pulled the wrong connector. Put back whatever you disconnected and find the right one. It will only disable your DRLs and won't affect anything else.

i swear.. i pulled out the right.. one.. perhaps.. my battery is running out

http://www2.uic.edu/~hchan4/DRL0001.jpg

http://www2.uic.edu/~hchan4/DRL0002.jpg

http://www2.uic.edu/~hchan4/DRL0003.jpg

that one is just like the one that was circled red on the previous picture posted up.. right? and my drl did turn off.. hmm... how can i check to see if my battery is still good? can it be my alternator also?

bump.. anyone thoughts?

diode from the 1N400x series should do, the x indicates the forward current rating.

actually mulder, the 1n400x series are all rated 1a cont. 30a surge. the x corresponds to peak inverse voltage.
1 = 50
2 = 100
3 = 200
4 = 400
5 = 600
6 = 800
7 = 1kv

now, a higher current variant would be the 1n540x, rated at 3a cont, and 200a surge. again, the x indicates PIV, but this time
0 = 50v
1 = 100
2 = 200
4 = 400
6 = 600
7 = 800
8 = 1kv

you can see that for most automotive apps the lowest voltage variant is more than sufficient.

hth
ken

Oops, you're right. Well for the average forum reader here it doesn't matter much, as you said any of them is ok for automotive use.

This is great..Ive wanted to disconnect the DRLs on my 07 STI since I got it. Im going to try out the glovebox method tonight..

Stumpzz, this method does not apply to the 07's, the DRL system is different. Please search for discussion threads about 07 DRLs, the procedure has been posted.

Seems the pics aren't working of the connector I need to pull, anyone have a pic that shows the connector behind the glove box?

does somebody know if you disable the drl would appear any warning light in the dashboard?? and somebody can send me the pictures of how to disable the drl please i will receive my hids this weekend so i need to doit this weekend thanks folks!!

does somebody know if you disable the drl would appear any warning light in the dashboard?? and somebody can send me the pictures of how to disable the drl please i will receive my hids this weekend so i need to doit this weekend thanks folks!!

Rather than bumping an ancient thread, you can just search for the necessary information which has been posted here multiple times. You also must add your vehicle information to your profile for an accurate response, since the DRL disable information is different depending on what model/year you have.

hi there i have a wrx tr 2007 i couldn't find which one is the switch that i have to unplug in order to disble the drls under the globebox can somebody send me pictures to my email it will be really appreciated my email is reinhardq@hotmail.com
thanks

under the hood there is one but i dont recomend it, so ill tell u about the module in the cabin

on the pass side remove the glove box, all u need is a philips screw drive, unscrew all inside and two under it and one clip on the side, it will then come out

on ur right side of the car ull see 2 relays in plain site directly (one inch at most) behind these relays is the module just unplug it and ur fine :-)

under the hood there is one but i dont recomend it, so ill tell u about the module in the cabin

on the pass side remove the glove box, all u need is a philips screw drive, unscrew all inside and two under it and one clip on the side, it will then come out

on ur right side of the car ull see 2 relays in plain site directly (one inch at most) behind these relays is the module just unplug it and ur fine :-)

Too bad this won't work because he has an 07, they are different.

sorry to add on to the noobness, but can anybody post pictures of the drl thingi behind the glove box?? i searched and everything, but all of the pictures are red xs to me. maybe the pictures are too old and got deleted?

i went to my car and saw a brown one, and a green pluged into a white. i haven't removed the glove box yet. thanks in advance.

Apparently all the photos died, and I was too lazy to take one. Here is the lost photo I found on archive.org

DRL connector module in the glove box on 2004 2005 04 05 Impreza WRX Daytime running lights

http://www.pixsup.com/uploads/9adb5c4794.jpg

i wanted to pull my DRL because my HID's would flicker with the DRLs...pissed me off

i pulled the harness from under the engine bay for now. Ill plug it back in and do the glove compartment one later. too cold outside.

i did my 02 a few weeks ago. it looks very similar to the 04 and 05's

Very easy to do, took me all of 10 minutes and that was including lunch!:)

I did this and it made my fogs go off and they wouldnt come back on until I plugged her back in...hmmm