Ok first off it seems like the Link doesn't have enough compensation for all possible events that can occur at idle OR it just expects you to run A/F ratios of 12:1 or so to compensate for them. Here are a few examples.

With the idle set to 800rpm and a nice A/F of 14.5:1 it is just fine. I tuned the fuel enrichment for the AC just fine. BUT the problems occur when you press the brake and/or the cooling fans come on. In either case the A/F ratio will go from 14.5 all the way and surge around 18-20:1 range. There are only a couple of things I can think of to overcome this.

1) Tune for idle A/F ratios of 14.5 when the foot brake is applied or when fans come on = RICH as HELL(11-12:1 range) when the fans are not on or you don't have your foot on the brake when idling.

2) Up the %rpm correction factor on fan on to about 25% so you go from 800rpm to 1000rpm where you can have a richer setting programmed in the map to compensate, but this doesn't fix the foot brake load issue.

OH and another thing. Lets say I turn the AC on the enrichment kicks in and everything is just fine. THEN I turn the AC off and it goes lean to ~ 18-20:1 range and STAYS there until I blip the throttle? The same thing happens in the next example:

It's idling at 800rpm nice A/F of 14.5:1 and then the fans kick on = things start leaning out becuase of increased load (I assume?) then the fans turn off BUT the A/F stays way lean still (18-20:1) and the engine keeps surging in rpms UNTIL you blip the throttle. It acts like it gets stuck into some kind of loop to compensate for the fans turning on and then when they go off it stays in that loop and doesn't return to the map fuel position to get back to nice 14.5:1 ratio UNTIL you blip the throttle which seems to cure it?

Sorry just a lot of questions here. Granted I have only been playing with the Link now for a couple of days and maybe the wideband is spoiling me, in that, it is showing me GLARING flaws in my tuning method or short falls in the Links ability to compensate for different engine loads when say foot brake and fans kick on. All you need is some kind of enrichment setting for the fans (more than just kicking up the rpms in the beginning) it seems like.

Thank you for any help anyone can give.

There are settings for Voltage drop. Read the manual and play with them. There is also and AC setting.

The problem you are having when you talk about having to blip the throttle is a known issue with the link. Its one of those things that you get used to. Watch the Idle control valve settings. By blipping the throttle you are causing the link to readjust the Idle control. Then your idle is back to normal. You can change those perameters. Also, play with the clamp setting.


HTH

CT

this is why piggybacks are nice

=)

Originally posted by jmott
this is why piggybacks are nice

=)

I agree with you if the car is to be driven daily. Sure, You might not make peak power but the car starts and idles perfect :)

I had a link for several months. When Mine was shipped it contained no stock map. I had to start from scratch. It was a long 2 months to get the car to run right. I sold it after comming to the conclusion that it is never going to run like stock. Its FAR less advanced.

CT

Originally posted by AZScoobie


I agree with you if the car is to be driven daily. Sure, You might not make peak power but the car starts and idles perfect :)

I had a link for several months. When Mine was shipped it contained no stock map. I had to start from scratch. It was a long 2 months to get the car to run right. I sold it after comming to the conclusion that it is never going to run like stock. Its FAR less advanced.

CT

I know I know :)... I was expecting this. On the brighter side however everything else seems to be going pretty well. Given that I only have spent obout a half hour so far on the road with half the time to partial throttle fueling and the other half to WOT (only up to 150kPa range) it is running pretty well.

I still have to play with tip-in fuel settings but other than that idle just seems a bit rough.

I will look at the voltage drop/correction stuff. The AC fuel enrichment is PERFECT but applying the brake and or fans still causes the Link to run like crap... ah well the joys of the Link right :).

Thanks for the replies.

the data logging, and tweaking possibilities that standalones offer is very cool to me.

but people need to discuss this side of standalone tuning as well, lest people be led into a false sense of security.

what would really be nice is a unichip type setup that anyone with a laptop and fiddle with.


Originally posted by AZScoobie


I agree with you if the car is to be driven daily. Sure, You might not make peak power but the car starts and idles perfect :)

I had a link for several months. When Mine was shipped it contained no stock map. I had to start from scratch. It was a long 2 months to get the car to run right. I sold it after comming to the conclusion that it is never going to run like stock. Its FAR less advanced.

CT

Originally posted by jmott
the data logging, and tweaking possibilities that standalones offer is very cool to me.

but people need to discuss this side of standalone tuning as well, lest people be led into a false sense of security.

what would really be nice is a unichip type setup that anyone with a laptop and fiddle with.




Yes.. If we had a Unichip programmer then life would be easy for many of us. But. You always have the AFC and ITC.

CT

I've found the best I can do in my car is to run at .94 volts at idle. Anything leaner than that, and it tries to die on me. Which, I really don't care if its running rich at idle... its idle after all.

I wouldn't worry too much about a/f ratios at idle. Get the idle stable under most conditions (no surging), then try to lean it out by increasing the "AirC Enrich" value.

The best I can get is ~14:1 at idle with it going up to 15:1 with the A/C on.

If you're stepping on the brake and the idle is messed, you need to increase your "Voltage Correction" value.

The thing I can't seem to get stable is when the A/C comes on then the fan comes on a few seconds later, I get a surge in idle.

surge, and then RPMS drop below target right? Same here... :(

Yup. It used to be really bad until I adjusted the "AirC Step" & "Fan Step" values quite low. If they both kick in at the same time, it does surge, then drop.....but even more annoying is when they turn off, it surges again! :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

One more reason to have our own "settings" section on here.

No reason we shouldn't be able to come up with a "best idle" number for everybody on here, assuming average mods. I have fuel rails along with everything else for example, so I had to change EVERYTHING it seemed like, but there is no reason we should't be able to come up with something like:

master 86
idle 900rpm
timing 8 degrees (CELL 305)
fuel value 100
overrun vac 26
AirC step 7
fan step 5
idle cold 46
idle hot 34
clamp 42
cold start 42
hot restart 17
crank enrich 47

Etc.... etc... etc...

Originally posted by ScoobieSnaX
I wouldn't worry too much about a/f ratios at idle. Get the idle stable under most conditions (no surging), then try to lean it out by increasing the "AirC Enrich" value.

The best I can get is ~14:1 at idle with it going up to 15:1 with the A/C on.

If you're stepping on the brake and the idle is messed, you need to increase your "Voltage Correction" value.

The thing I can't seem to get stable is when the A/C comes on then the fan comes on a few seconds later, I get a surge in idle.

Well I don't seem to have a problem with the AC enrich = when I turn on the AC I have it adjusted to stay at ~14.5A/F. Now I want to know more about the voltage correction. The manual said to set it to 15 BUT does not give any indication of what it does if you increase or decrease it? I have it at 20 with almost no known effects except the Volts reading in "my gauges in the Link software" seems to have gone from 14.1 to about 13.6 or so is that what it does and if so what am I shooting for?

I have tried idle at 800-900 with varying fan step from 5 up to 12. 12 seems to work the best as the rpms go up to about 1000-1100rpm and do NOT surge but I am STILL leaning out too about 19-20:1 during this time. Not really frustrated with the Link JUST THE LACK OF DOCUMENTATION :).

Would running less timing allow for better idle?

Originally posted by davidm_sh
Ok first off it seems like the Link doesn't have enough compensation for all possible events that can occur at idle OR it just expects you to run A/F ratios of 12:1 or so to compensate for them. Here are a few examples.

With the idle set to 800rpm and a nice A/F of 14.5:1 it is just fine. I tuned the fuel enrichment for the AC just fine. BUT the problems occur when you press the brake and/or the cooling fans come on. In either case the A/F ratio will go from 14.5 all the way and surge around 18-20:1 range. There are only a couple of things I can think of to overcome this.

1) Tune for idle A/F ratios of 14.5 when the foot brake is applied or when fans come on = RICH as HELL(11-12:1 range) when the fans are not on or you don't have your foot on the brake when idling.

2) Up the %rpm correction factor on fan on to about 25% so you go from 800rpm to 1000rpm where you can have a richer setting programmed in the map to compensate, but this doesn't fix the foot brake load issue.

OH and another thing. Lets say I turn the AC on the enrichment kicks in and everything is just fine. THEN I turn the AC off and it goes lean to ~ 18-20:1 range and STAYS there until I blip the throttle? The same thing happens in the next example:

It's idling at 800rpm nice A/F of 14.5:1 and then the fans kick on = things start leaning out becuase of increased load (I assume?) then the fans turn off BUT the A/F stays way lean still (18-20:1) and the engine keeps surging in rpms UNTIL you blip the throttle. It acts like it gets stuck into some kind of loop to compensate for the fans turning on and then when they go off it stays in that loop and doesn't return to the map fuel position to get back to nice 14.5:1 ratio UNTIL you blip the throttle which seems to cure it?

Sorry just a lot of questions here. Granted I have only been playing with the Link now for a couple of days and maybe the wideband is spoiling me, in that, it is showing me GLARING flaws in my tuning method or short falls in the Links ability to compensate for different engine loads when say foot brake and fans kick on. All you need is some kind of enrichment setting for the fans (more than just kicking up the rpms in the beginning) it seems like.

Thank you for any help anyone can give.

Good grief! I was led to believe that the New Age Link ECUs no longer inherit the idle stability issues vs "ideal" leanish AFR. I struggled for a very long time to get this right, talked to many "tuners" about this problem and how Link had in fact designed to idle smoothly only under rich AFR conditions (this is documented in my manual). So we were under the illussion that it's a possibility when it's not .. now, I know there are some people who let their tuner sort out their car and claim that their WRX/STi idle fine but when i asked them what AFR are they seeing on their Lambda monitor, surprise! surprise! either very rich > 12:1 or they dont even have a monitor at all !!

I have had arguments with many people including tuners like MRT about the side effects of prolonged rich idle, expectedly they say "No problems at all". Some even avoided the issue completely with remarks like "How long do you idle anyway?" Now, if you guys arent aware of this, my research wrt this matter revealed that prolonged rich idle caused premature wear on our narrow band downpipe mounted Oxygen sensor. I went through three sensors in the short time (1.5 years) i was running and tuning the Link ecu.

Then there's the other question about "bore washing" from the excess fuel that's being dumped for no good reason besides keeping idle steady. Again, many dismissed this "threat" as a nonevent. Factory ecu maintains rock steady idle by keeping in check all the parameters that affect, Voltage, TPS, and keeps AFR rocking back and forth (mainly as a prerequisite to keep the catalytic converter in working condition). You can try very hard to mimic these in the Link with load ie A/C, Headlights, Foglights all ON but the second you switch off A/C, AFR shoots from a steady 14.x : 1 to 12 : 1.

How many people can tell me that dumping fuel into the cylinders doesnt do any damage on a road car [race cars are stripped and rebuilt so that doesnt count].

Ok, so what is the solution? Is anybody getting 14:1 A/R ratio at idle, and having it smooth? I'd very much like to see what their settings are.... sounds like Jan would as well.

Otherwise, we run rich, and possibly hose up the 02 sensor, and/or the cylinder bore?

I have a rock solid idle at 14-15:1 a/f. When I hit the lights, full vent blower, a/c, anything it is fine. It took a long time playing with the settings to get it right. Messing with the map idle clamp made the biggest difference. I had it set too high and the Link was interpolating between cells for the idle. Lambda would adjust the cell it was in, but it wouldnt have the right effect becuase the Link was interpolating. The thing that happens now is when the a/c turns off at idle the idle jumps up to 1000 rpm from my usual 700 rpm and then falls back. This happened with the stock ecu so I'm not concerned.

-Chav

Originally posted by Chav
I have a rock solid idle at 14-15:1 a/f. When I hit the lights, full vent blower, a/c, anything it is fine. It took a long time playing with the settings to get it right. Messing with the map idle clamp made the biggest difference. I had it set too high and the Link was interpolating between cells for the idle. Lambda would adjust the cell it was in, but it wouldnt have the right effect becuase the Link was interpolating. The thing that happens now is when the a/c turns off at idle the idle jumps up to 1000 rpm from my usual 700 rpm and then falls back. This happened with the stock ecu so I'm not concerned.

-Chav

I am a little confused about what you mean by "map idle clamp"? Are you referring to the "Overrun Vacuum" setting? I am just wondering. Even if that is what you are talking about I don't see how that could help. Becuase when I get these excessivly lean issues I can see that the Link is in the "Idle mode" becuase it reports "increasing rpms, decreasing rpms, holding, etc..."

But what do I know :)? I am pretty much a two day newbie to all this :).

Thanks and keep all this good info. coming.

The setting is under the fuel drop button. It is the top right zone labeled "Clamp". It was set at 33 from the factory, but my car idles at 26-28. So I lowered it to 22 and the ecu correct's and holds the idle at 700rpm and 14-15:1 a/f.

-Chav

Originally posted by Chav
The setting is under the fuel drop button. It is the top right zone labeled "Clamp". It was set at 33 from the factory, but my car idles at 26-28. So I lowered it to 22 and the ecu correct's and holds the idle at 700rpm and 14-15:1 a/f.

-Chav

Wow that is set pretty low. I just played with it some and it seems like my idle is around 26-28 like yours so I set my vacuum overrun to 25 and it seems if I go with anything lower than 38 right now (for the clamp) then the car will just die unexplicably??

But like I said it is a little better now. With nothing on the AF is around 12.5:1 and then with lights, fan, laptop running and the radiator fans kicking in it will only (heh only I say) lean out to 17.2:1 and no leaner and then actually comes back down after the cooling fans shut off... so progress... just slow.

Thanks again.

Originally posted by Chav
I have a rock solid idle at 14-15:1 a/f. When I hit the lights, full vent blower, a/c, anything it is fine. It took a long time playing with the settings to get it right. Messing with the map idle clamp made the biggest difference. I had it set too high and the Link was interpolating between cells for the idle. Lambda would adjust the cell it was in, but it wouldnt have the right effect becuase the Link was interpolating. The thing that happens now is when the a/c turns off at idle the idle jumps up to 1000 rpm from my usual 700 rpm and then falls back. This happened with the stock ecu so I'm not concerned.

-Chav

Please give us your list of fueling upgrades and more detailed info about your other settings...

-Jonathan

I've said it once I'll say it again ...

stock fuel system

master 90
idle fuel is 95
advance is 2
rpm 800
voltage correction is 20

rock solid idle ... just not lean

Ok.. it appears there is more than one way to skin a cat...

I just played with all the numbers and got a good combination that uses 800RPM as the idle speed. Before I was using 850 with good results.

My idle fuel is down in the low 90's.

Can someone with a wideband02 please check their idle A/F and compare it to the OXY readings in the link and tell us just how useless this OXY number is. It seems on my car that OXY is either reading high 90's or dropping all the way to 0.

I would like someone to get their car idling at a good (lean) A/F ratio and then observe your OXY reading to tell me where it is.

-Jonathan

JenisonWRX & mynew02 - Can you tell me what your vacuum overrun and Clamp values are? I think those have a LOT to do with the idle quality. Chav mentioned that he got his clamp value at or below his vacuum overrun... The only problem is when I go down from my clamp value of 38 (vaccuum overrun set at 25) the car REALLY surges and usually dies. Maybe I just have to get through "that rough middle ground" and it will be better once I get to my target value of 25 or less on the Clamp [shrug].

Anyway I tuned my car with my wideband yesterday for partial throttle and it was a little on the rich side (high 13's low 14's:1 AF's) from vacuum up to about 3psi. So I drive it this morning and it is just PIG RICH!! I am talking 11-12:1!

So I try out the autotune feature with the voltage 78 in for cruise range and I will tell you that the rear O2 sensor is pretty damn on when it comes to tuning for partial/light throttle AF's of 14.5:1. And that is even with a high flow cat sitting between my wideband (no cats before it) and the stock 0-1V rear O2.

***NOTE: I just REALLY REALLY wish Link would put a feature in to tell the autotune lambda function to turn off after a presettable MAP threshold. That would ROCK!! Then you could just leave the autotune on ALL THE time without worry it will screw up your high boost WOT maps becuase the rear 02 does become fairly inaccurate after say low 13's:1 and high 16's:1 I would guesstimate. But it is pretty spot on for mid 14's:1 ratios.

CAN ANYONE contact Link or does anyone have any "inside tracks tuner" type inroads with Link to get this kind of feature? I REALLY don't think it would be that hard to implement, and I just honestly can't think of a reason why it would be a bad thing. Anyway off to work on the idle some more :).

Oh and on a side note: I have been getting consistant variances from my boost gauge to my MAP readings indicating there is about a 3psi difference in atmosphere up here at 6000ft above sea level. When I am boosting 18psi on my gauges I am only registering about 200-205kPa!!! BUT I am NOT getting any more knock now that I can tune my AF nice and fat to the 11.5 range under WOT :)... oh and did I mention :) [heh].

I'll have to go look to be 100% but I think the vac overrun is 15 and the clamp is 53 or so...

-Jonathan

OR: 26 Clamp: 50

JenisonWRX & mynew02 - Can you tell me what your vacuum overrun and Clamp values are? I think those have a LOT to do with the idle quality

yes ... they do. Even states that in the manual

Stock engine, stock fuel system, no turbo yet.

master fuel: 110
Lambda idle target: 72
Advance in idle zone: 0 over the stock 10 degrees of advance
Idles in zone 205 with fuel at: 111
Clamp: 22
voltage correction: 15
idle rpm: 700rpm
Airc Step: 25
Fan step: 5
idle hot: 50
overrun vac: 20

The clamp is meant to control a surging idle. If your clamp is set at 38 and your actual idle is 26-28 then your link is using a different zone for idling then it should. When you lower the clamp it moves into the zone it should be and if this zone is way too rich/lean it will die. Try putting the number in zone 305 into zone 205 and then lowering the clamp. This is what worked for me. I was experiancing the same thing you were ie. had to set the idle rich as hell to get it to idle right and whenever I turned on a light the car would die. With the clamp set so high the voltage correction wasnt doing anything. Once I moved the clamp down the voltage correction started working again.

-Chav

Originally posted by Chav
Stock engine, stock fuel system, no turbo yet.

master fuel: 110
Lambda idle target: 72
Advance in idle zone: 0 over the stock 10 degrees of advance
Idles in zone 205 with fuel at: 111
Clamp: 22
voltage correction: 15
idle rpm: 700rpm
Airc Step: 25
Fan step: 5
idle hot: 50
overrun vac: 20

The clamp is meant to control a surging idle. If your clamp is set at 38 and your actual idle is 26-28 then your link is using a different zone for idling then it should. When you lower the clamp it moves into the zone it should be and if this zone is way too rich/lean it will die. Try putting the number in zone 305 into zone 205 and then lowering the clamp. This is what worked for me. I was experiancing the same thing you were ie. had to set the idle rich as hell to get it to idle right and whenever I turned on a light the car would die. With the clamp set so high the voltage correction wasnt doing anything. Once I moved the clamp down the voltage correction started working again.

-Chav

This really won't do my thanks to you justice... BUT THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU :).

That is EXACALLY the kind of explanation I was looking for. So I went out to my car to give it a try and I had to richen up the values in each zone A LOT:
Zones-------Before(values)-------After(values)
100-105------90-------95------------105-----115
200-205------95-------100----------115------130
300-305------100-----105-----------115-----115

By quite a bit. Here is what I did. I slowly adjusted down the Map clamp by 1-2 then go in all these cells and then richened up the previously mentioned cells accordingly and went back and forth until I ended up with a Clamp value around 22-24 I think it was with overrun vacuum at 20. Now idle is at a nice 14.5-15:1 ROCK STEADY. I mean I can ACTUALLY see the effects of the voltage correction now. I had to turn it back to 15 and I think that is still a little high. It seems like it richens the mix by some value based off of that for each and every electrical load you add. With the car at light load (just laptop sucking off lighter I was at 14.5-15:1) then with fan on full, radiator fans kicking on, headlights on, and laptop it dipped down to 13's:1 range at the richest and then came right back up nicely as I turned each thing off accordingly.

THANKS again. That is ONE BIG tuning part understood and out of the way (for now [heh]) :).

:) Glad I could help. I hope everyone else gets to see this too. It took me two weeks to figure this out. I've had it this way for the last month and it has held perfectly. If you have any questions let me know.

-Chav

When I put my clamp value below 38 it dies at idle, irrespective of fuel/advance settings. My car always idles in zone 205 so clamping it too high isn't an issue. Like everyone else, I can get a reasonably smooth idle but the 02 readings are in the mid-90's.

Originally posted by paulw
When I put my clamp value below 38 it dies at idle, irrespective of fuel/advance settings. My car always idles in zone 205 so clamping it too high isn't an issue. Like everyone else, I can get a reasonably smooth idle but the 02 readings are in the mid-90's.

I was in the same boat as you ... actually now my car seems to teeter between zones 105 and 205 now (I have to watch again to make sure) BUT I told myself OK I am going to do whatever it takes to get my clamp down to mid 20's and like I said my car would die to if I simply tried to crank the clamp down.

BUT I would turn it down by one and then quickly (while feathering the throttle to avoid it dying) adjust all those cells (205) mostly to be richer until it stabilized again. If you see my numbers in my 205 zone went from 100 to 130 for fuel!!! It seems counterintuitive but just give it a good try and don't let the car die until you richen up zone 205. I also richened up all the cells around it since the Link interpolates between the cells ... it was probably like 60% changing zone 205 and 40% richening up the surrounding cells as well.

Now I get my idle right in the mid 14's (.78volt I belive) and it will dip slightly down to high 13's with a lot of accessories on. I am going to wait until tonight to try and tune that out with the voltage setting.

^^ exactly what i noticed. Try it, I believe almost everyone with an idling problem is experiancing this. IIRC .72v is stoich.

-Chav

If you richen all of those zones first and then drop the clamp will the car idle?

yes, but the hard part is figuring out how much you have to richen/lean them out for the car to idle. Lowering the clamp by one point while adjusting the zones is the way i did it.

-Chav

Originally posted by Chav
^^ exactly what i noticed. Try it, I believe almost everyone with an idling problem is experiancing this. IIRC .72v is stoich.

-Chav

Two WRX can have identical mods or completely stock even and yet they may not behave as expected even the same MAP is used (due to variation in manufacturing tolerances, etc). A friend's STi ver 4 Type R has severe voltage "over-run" problems, almost every component from A/F, TPS register Volts that exceeded factory specification limits. The Link refused to work properly no matter what.

You guys should get together over the weekend and help each other out, not exchanging MAPs although that's a great start. Chav's result of good idle + leanish AFR sounds hopeful for everybody else (just not on the older Link boards). I love to solve problems but i wont get in trying to solve maps or i'll get too engrossed I start to lose sleep over them. ;)

Tis true, but that is why I said almost everyone. ;) This is a problem that is set in the base map that you get so anyone that doesnt know what I wrote down is going to have this problem until they figure it out. There are other ways around it, but I believe this is the way it is supposed to be set. The clamp should be used to correct a surging idle due to huge cams or a very large intake manifold.

-Chav

I spent some time and reset my clamp number to around 22 and very high fuel values. It did idle but my O2 readings went to 100 and never dropped. What's also odd (at least to me) was that my idle MAP readings never dropped below 40. I had observed this before but thought that it was being "clamped" there since my clamp setting was 42. It appears my MAP at idle is around 40 normally.

I did not want the O2 reading to stay that rich so I dropped back to my previous settings of clamp at 42, advance at zero and fuel at 96. My O2 readings went back down to 92 or so.

My mods are:
PE1818
AEM intake (with MAF sensor removed)
STI injectors, Walbro pump
Underdrive pulley
Custom turbo back exhaust with one cat.

As Shiv mentioned, there car specific differences.

Originally posted by paulw
I spent some time and reset my clamp number to around 22 and very high fuel values. It did idle but my O2 readings went to 100 and never dropped. What's also odd (at least to me) was that my idle MAP readings never dropped below 40. I had observed this before but thought that it was being "clamped" there since my clamp setting was 42. It appears my MAP at idle is around 40 normally.

I did not want the O2 reading to stay that rich so I dropped back to my previous settings of clamp at 42, advance at zero and fuel at 96. My O2 readings went back down to 92 or so.

My mods are:
PE1818
AEM intake (with MAF sensor removed)
STI injectors, Walbro pump
Underdrive pulley
Custom turbo back exhaust with one cat.

As Shiv mentioned, there car specific differences.

DOH sorry just realized somthing... actually two things.

1) you had the right idea but followed our numbers too closely I think. One thing is I live up at 6000ft. above sea level, as such, my idle is usually around 26-28. SO I set my clamp to 27 and went from there. It sounds like if your normal idle is at 40kPa then you probably want your clamp right around there.

2) You removed the MAF sensor? I thought that was where the Link got its IAT reading from? If so how does it know when to enrich and lean based off of ambient air temperature differences? Just curious

Thanks.
That was the same problem i had.
It will only idle on 0,94volt.
my clamp was before 50 and is now 27.
now i can get the run closedloop at idle(rocking from 0,0v-0,85v).
And the idle is as stable as before.

Skassa

So what happens when you turn off the a/c ?

I bet it goes rich as buggery... How do you guys compensate for that ?

^^ No, it doesnt. When the a/c turns off so does the a/c enrich. Also when the a/c is on the map goes up to another zone and that zone has the proper fueling amount to keep the A/F ratio at 14.5 with the load of the compressor. When the a/c turns off the map goes back down and into the normal idle zone.

-Chav

Originally posted by I Wish
So what happens when you turn off the a/c ?

I bet it goes rich as buggery... How do you guys compensate for that ?

Yah no problem here either. Like Chav said the A/C enrich compensates nicely for it. Then all the other "electrical loads" seem to be compensated by the voltage correction as well. With full load my car actually goes just a tad rich into the high 13:1 A/F range like at night with headlights on, laptop plugged in ... but it usually is always around 14.5:1 +/-0.5.

Forgot to mention that I have an V5 Link for an Oz spec WRX. It doesn't have a lot of these features.

Is that the "Link" instead of the Link plus or Link 2 that we are using? I've heard the original Link didnt do very well with the idle.

-Chav

Mine is the Plug in Link, straight board replacement. They have apparently improved the idle enormously over the previous 6 row link.

Hopefully they will keep development going and filter down any changes from the newer boards.