i have a 95 impreza L awd i made a mistake and put on the weapon R dragon intake now when ever i go wot i get like a lag it starts to go then the rpms drop then you have to let up on the gas and then it takes off whats wrong with this thing

now when ever i go wot i get like a lag it starts to go then the rpms drop then you have to let up on the gas and then it takes off

Um, when you say "now when ever i go wot" do you mean from a start, or while the car is rolling?

Maybe you need to slip your clutch more.

from a stop and i am an auto so i am really confussed

Hm. Well...

Lots of intakes are notorious for losing low-end torque, and gaining power in the higher RPM bands. It's entirely possible that's what happened with you...

Just a thought.

Originally posted by Daveish
Lots of intakes are notorious for losing low-end torque, and gaining power in the higher RPM bands. It's entirely possible that's what happened with you...

I have the same problem on a '95 2.0 NA Legacy (5spd man.).

I live on a long, steep hill where I need to drive in the 2nd gear. If I apply the throttle only 1/2 way, the car accelerates up the hill, but if I hit WOT, it slows down (drops to 1000 RPM and crawls up the hill - it doesn't die though!). When I let off the throttle the car accelerates again.

Now this is hardly a loss of low-end torque due to the intake - after all, why would it loose torque at WOT and not at 1/2 throttle? :)

It only happens under 2000 RPM.

Could it be a bad MAF (but I don't get a CEL) or a tiny leak in one of the vacuum hoses?

Or something else?


D.

i think it may have somthing to do with the o2 sensor

Now this is hardly a loss of low-end torque due to the intake - after all, why would it loose torque at WOT and not at 1/2 throttle?

:confused: Scratch my earlier remark then.

Maybe the A/F mix is off at WOT, then? Too much air at WOT + not enough gas = minor detonation -> timing retard?


Just hypothesizing here... :)

I know what it is, but you arent going to like the answer. Luckily its easy and cheap to fix.

Umm... well, are you going to share the answer with everyone else? :rolleyes:

I am totally positive that it is the intake. When you go WOT at low RPM's, there is no enough air in the intake system to suffice for a large breath (that is why there is a big black box on the throttle body)...at higher RPM's the air is already flowing , so it's fine.

I'll bet if you return the intake to stock it will be fine.

Any intake that is just a j-tube w/ an open cone filter is junk.

You can attach a shielded Reactive filter to the j-tube and run another 3" tube into the fender...this will allow you to breathe denser air to slightly compensate for the bog at low RPM's.


I have tried multiple intake set ups and you will always lose low end torque when you remove the plenum box.

I am totally positive that it is the intake. When you go WOT at low RPM's, there is no enough air in the intake system to suffice for a large breath (that is why there is a big black box on the throttle body)...at higher RPM's the air is already flowing , so it's fine.

I'll bet if you return the intake to stock it will be fine.

I'm going to try that after I do the basic tune-up (spark plugs, oil+filter change)...

And yes, I was thinking about replacing the stock tubing with something, that would allow for an 'air reserve' behind the filter. This would however include relocating the MAF and dealing with vacuum tubes (where I'm not quite certain what to do with'em).

CIPER: If it is easy and cheap to fix, chances are I'll like it. So please share... :)

Thx, D.

I am totally positive that it is the intake. When you go WOT at low RPM's, there is no enough air in the intake system to suffice for a large breath (that is why there is a big black box on the throttle body)...at higher RPM's the air is already flowing , so it's fine.

I'll bet if you return the intake to stock it will be fine.

I'm going to try that after I do the basic tune-up (spark plugs, oil+filter change)...

And yes, I was thinking about replacing the stock tubing with some sort of plenum or 'air reserve' after the filter. This would probably include relocating the MAF and dealing with vacuum tubes (where I'm not quite certain what to do with'em).

CIPER: If it is easy and cheap to fix, chances are I'll like it. So please share... :)

Thx, D.

I fell that if I post this all of you will get on my case about it. Please just try it for my sake okay? I will give two seperate reasons below



Get your tank near empty. Go fill up on a decent brand of 92 octane gas. Reset the ECU then try the same situation as you describe.

It sounds so much like the knock sensor detects knock and is retarding the timing.

It cannot be coincidence that the exact situations you describe are exactly when knock is likely to happen. Seriously, I could use your description as "the best places to find knock."

AND/OR

It could be the intake too. Most intakes are of a cheap design and allow pulsation of the air flowing into the meter. Even VERY small pulses or turbulance can seriously screw up the readings. Many intakes do not include a velocity stack and mount directly to the meter. This lets air enter at any direction and with different speeds.

Here is an exmaple. Have you ever seen a wind chamber test where most of the lines over the object are smooth but at some points the smoke twists and swirls and starts to disapate? This is what happens in these intakes. Since the air sensor is so sensitive your ECU doesnt know what the hell is going on.

I had the dragon intake also on my 99rs. I found the problem to be the foam filter. I was having hesitation also and I had a K&N filter laying around so just for kicks I put the K&N on. It made a huge improvement. The Dragon filter is just a big peace of ****. I was also having problem with the foam braking down after like 4k miles. I would try a different filter that flows better.

Originally posted by ciper
Get your tank near empty. Go fill up on a decent brand of 92 octane gas. Reset the ECU then try the same situation as you describe.

It sounds so much like the knock sensor detects knock and is retarding the timing.

It [B]cannot be coincidence that the exact situations you describe are exactly when knock is likely to happen. Seriously, I could use your description as "the best places to find knock."


OK, but I already use 95 octane gas, as this is the lowest we get here. But now that you mention it... I could just hit a bad tank of gas, as the problem feels much stronger now than usually.

It could be the intake too. Most intakes are of a cheap design and allow pulsation of the air flowing into the meter. Even VERY small pulses or turbulance can seriously screw up the readings. Many intakes do not include a velocity stack and mount directly to the meter. This lets air enter at any direction and with different speeds.

OK, so there is some room for improvement. Check the sketch and tell me what you think...


D.

Hopefully the pic will get here...

Is it just me, or is that a dirty picture that just got posted to the board.....

:lol: