mack109
04-23-2001, 04:53 PM
Last week my wife took our MY 95 Legacy wagon with AT in to have the driver's side window regulator fixed and the dealer sent her home with a list of additional stuff they wanted to do.
Replace oil seals (for leaks) on right rear cam seal and oil filler neck @ $45 each !, Power steering flush ?, Air/fuel service, what ever that is.
Well there has never been a leak under this car (108K miles). There was a little oil "sweat" around the right rear cam seal and the oil filler neck, which could have been a dribble for the last time I changed the oil, so I thought I would clean the engine and look for evidence of new oil leaks. I got out my trusty pressure washer and went to town. Big mistake! When I restarted the engine it would start right up, fall back to idle, and stall, running quite rough just before stall. I figured the plug were wet, and they were. I pulled off the boots and blew out the plug wells and boots with compressed air. Restart - - same thing. It starts but won't idle and then stalls. I let it sit in the sun with the hood open to dry out everything else for several hours. Same thing. In neutral, I can keep it running as long as I am above 3000 rpm. I even drove it about 2-3 miles and it stalled each time I came to a stop. So home I went and did an ECU reset, by the battery disconnect method. Still no idle. The "check engine" light is not on. Any ideas?
PS: I found (so far) 3 ways to reset the ECU
1. disconnect battery Neg ground for 30-40 mins. reconnect and restart without touching throttle (it would not idle)
2. remove 50 amp and two 30 amp fuses from front fuse box for 5 mins. from the tech archives (did not try this)
3. connect green connectors and black connectors under dash near steering column as per MRT website (could only find one black connector)
Are these methods all effective and are there pros and cons to each method? Thanks for any advice.<u>Text</u>
Replace oil seals (for leaks) on right rear cam seal and oil filler neck @ $45 each !, Power steering flush ?, Air/fuel service, what ever that is.
Well there has never been a leak under this car (108K miles). There was a little oil "sweat" around the right rear cam seal and the oil filler neck, which could have been a dribble for the last time I changed the oil, so I thought I would clean the engine and look for evidence of new oil leaks. I got out my trusty pressure washer and went to town. Big mistake! When I restarted the engine it would start right up, fall back to idle, and stall, running quite rough just before stall. I figured the plug were wet, and they were. I pulled off the boots and blew out the plug wells and boots with compressed air. Restart - - same thing. It starts but won't idle and then stalls. I let it sit in the sun with the hood open to dry out everything else for several hours. Same thing. In neutral, I can keep it running as long as I am above 3000 rpm. I even drove it about 2-3 miles and it stalled each time I came to a stop. So home I went and did an ECU reset, by the battery disconnect method. Still no idle. The "check engine" light is not on. Any ideas?
PS: I found (so far) 3 ways to reset the ECU
1. disconnect battery Neg ground for 30-40 mins. reconnect and restart without touching throttle (it would not idle)
2. remove 50 amp and two 30 amp fuses from front fuse box for 5 mins. from the tech archives (did not try this)
3. connect green connectors and black connectors under dash near steering column as per MRT website (could only find one black connector)
Are these methods all effective and are there pros and cons to each method? Thanks for any advice.<u>Text</u>