I purchased an Omori 52mm boost gauge w/ one of their pods. Had to hack up the pod but got the results I wanted. Black face, yellow needle, green backlit and in psi, all mounted on the steering column.

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=96923

Install details here:

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=96960#post96960

Big Sky

Looks good ... nice selection!

-Chris

Looks terrific! Where'd you get the gauge from? (esp. with the yellow needle?)

I got it here:

http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/

He's the same guy that helped setup scoobymods.com. Excellent service, everything in stock, tracking #'s and followup emails.

very very nice.

although, is it ever a problem (or just annoying) that you cant see your tach under 2k?

Originally posted by elgorey
very very nice.

although, is it ever a problem (or just annoying) that you cant see your tach under 2k?

My tach is never under 2,000 except when the key is off:lol: .

How close of a match is the needle in color to the stock needles? The stock ones aren't quite yellow, but have an orange tint to them; I was wondering if the Omori needles matched this.

jason

Pretty close- probably not exact, but very close.

I bought the Omori 45mm gauge and replaced the column mounted OEM one.

I just shoved the Omori one into the rubber cup. Its about 100000 times better.

SoloOne - I had the intention of doing the EXACT same thing -- did it fit??

Did it require running new lines/wires for it, or could you just use the existing ones??

Originally posted by CirrusWRX
SoloOne - I had the intention of doing the EXACT same thing -- did it fit??

Did it require running new lines/wires for it, or could you just use the existing ones??

What he said. :)

bitchtastic!

does the mount stick onto the column with double stick tape or am i missin sompin?

That looks awesome.. nice job. Does the 45mm guage show mroe of the tach.? Thats the only thing i dislike..

the OEM one fits perfectly between teh 2 and 9K on the TACH. I think ill be adding a EGT using exactly what BIGSKY did on the opposite side of the column.

-c

Originally posted by CirrusWRX
SoloOne - I had the intention of doing the EXACT same thing -- did it fit??

Did it require running new lines/wires for it, or could you just use the existing ones??

Yep it fits perfectly.

All you have to do is splice the wires on the Omori gauge to the OEM ones (for the backlight).

You use the same rubber hose.

I'll try to get pics of it.

Originally posted by SoLo OnE


Yep it fits perfectly.

All you have to do is splice the wires on the Omori gauge to the OEM ones (for the backlight).

You use the same rubber hose.

I'll try to get pics of it.

O ..that is sweet! I want to see that gauge. Can you post a pic? If I can just replace the factory column gauge. I'm about to go shopping.

thanks for any info

would the wiring and hose work for just about any gauge?

Thanks Solo - You have me sold too!

I was conisdering Greddy gauges, but I really liked the look of the Omori's - and a buddy of mine who has an S4 says that's all those guys use, and they have a good track record, so I was going to go with the add'l 3 gauges in the gauge pod up top.

I'd love to see pics, but the fact that it's 2 less wires and 1 less hose to run make it seem much more worthwhile - that stock gauge is CRAP!

Nice install!

Matt

I bugged and bugged Omori about a 45mm pod w/ no luck. I bugged SOA about just getting the dash mount pod w/ no luck either. I definitely wasn't going to spend a bunch of $ just to get the hood. Finally I said the heck w/ it and got this from Omori:



http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/images/Omori-P120-Holder-1.jpg

I ended hacking the bottom portion off (the arm part) and ended up w/ basically a tube just like the oe one.

Originally posted by REXADDICT
I want to see that gauge. Would the wiring and hose work for just about any gauge?

Here is a picture of the 45mm Omori with the yellow needle kit - Alamoautosports has them for $96.75 and Kastleskorner has them for $95. (I would check with the latter vendor to make sure it has the yellow needle - the standard Omori is white)

Wiring-wise, with a mechanical gauge the only power needed is for the backlight (so you probably only have two wires - the variable/dimmed +12v and ground) so you should be fine. (as an aside, if you are doing the install from scratch, there is a two wire connector off of the radio harness which has the aforementioned leads, too)

kastles's come w/ the yellow needle (even though his web site shows white needles). The one advantage of the mechanical one is it can dim- the electronic one comes w/ a seperate lead for lighting (as well as a lead for power and ground) thus no way to dim it (unless somone has some ideas).

Originally posted by BIGSKYWRX
The one advantage of the mechanical one is it can dim- the electronic one comes w/ a seperate lead for lighting (as well as a lead for power and ground) thus no way to dim it

So I am unclear what you mean here - coming from the meter you have +12V switched, ground #1, ground #2, and the light circuit (+12V) - if you use a switched 12v for the gauge, a body ground for one of the grounds, and the 2 pin connector from the radio (the cd-illumination connector which is used for the factory boost gauge) for the other ground and the small light circuit, you should have power to the gauge whenever the car is on, and lights which turn on with the interior lights and are dimmed with the interior lights - is the electronic gauge different for some reason? (I have a 52mm Omori electronic boost gauge waiting to be installed, so I haven't seen if it works or not)

I found a post (needed to help me wire it) that said it wouldn't work as it had a seperate light wire. The instructions showed a red wire that need to be hooked to a 12v ignition, a black (actually two) to a ground, and a white for the light, brown don't use. I went to the clock and put red-> yellow w/ stripe white to pink w/ stripe and black to black.

If you get it it do dim, would you please post here.

Thanks

Big Sky

Originally posted by BIGSKYWRX
I found a post (needed to help me wire it) that said it wouldn't work as it had a seperate light wire. The instructions showed a red wire that need to be hooked to a 12v ignition, a black (actually two) to a ground, and a white for the light, brown don't use. I went to the clock and put red-> yellow w/ stripe white to pink w/ stripe and black to black.

One potential problem - go turn on your lights, then switch the dimmer up and down - notice how the clock doesn't change? The lead going to the clock probably just tells it that the headlights are on, reduce down to the night time brightness level.

There is a set of two leads which are on the backside of the radio harness which you can use - see the attached pic from the Subaru mechanical gauge install instructions (so these leads would only be used for the light) - I would connect one of the black wires and the white wire to that and see how it goes.

Did you set the warning light? I was thinking I would set mine for 14psi, so that I know when I am at full boost!

Other than the dimming issue (and the price), what is the real difference between the mechanical and electrical gauges?

Thanks
__
Josh

Originally posted by jsarfaty
Other than the dimming issue (and the price), what is the real difference between the mechanical and electrical gauges?

Thanks
__
Josh

With the electrical boost gauge, the sender remains in the engine compartment - all you run into the passenger compartment is the wiring harness (i.e., no long vacuum lines). Lets you keep the vacuum hose short (which may or may not make a difference). The electrical should also be less prone to the needle vibration which some mechanicals have when hooked to a strong source, as well. In some cases, the electrical has extra features, too (peak hold, playback, warning, etc.)

The main difference between the mechanical gauge and the electrical one is that mechanical guages have the vacuum line coming right up to the gauge, the electrical one uses a sending unit and sends an electrical signal.

DrD,

I'll wait till you get yours dimming;) . How do you set the warning light? I saw it at the bottom, but didn't know how to set it.

Big Sky

I'll wait till you get yours dimming

I'll post if it works - I will probably install it on Saturday if I have time - otherwise, it's going to have to wait a few weeks (next week will be insane at work - I am preparing for a conference the following week in Salt Lake City)

How do you set the warning light? I saw it at the bottom, but didn't know how to set it

Well - the instructions were left out of the box for this part, so I downloaded them from Omori-na - here is the link of note:

http://www.omori-na.com/additionalfeatures.pdf

Essentially, if you look at the back of the gauge itself, there is a sticker labelled "adjust" with a circle/arrow around the text, as well as a small switch which has "Mer" and "Adj." as the two settings - with the gauge powered, flip the switch to "Adj" - the gauge needle should now move to the currently set warning level - next, you are supposed to remove the sticker over the adjust set screw, then turn the adjusting screw until the needle indicates the desired setting for the warning light - replace the sticker, flip the switch back to "Mer" and you should be good to go... at least that's what the instructions say ;-)

When I wire things up, I plan to splice the sender into the line coming off of the manifold, locate the sender under the boost control cover, grab my 12V switched and one ground from the clock, then grab my 12V dimmed (I hope) illumination and the other ground from the cd-illumination plug coming off the stereo head unit - the gauge will be in a pod (like the ones Subiegal was selling) in the left corner of the dash, up against the a-pillar.

Did you use the stock t-fitting? It looks too small to use in most places - plus you have that impossibly small orifice going to the sender, which should reduce sensitivity, I would think (will take longer for the tube between the fitting and the sender to equilibrate with the manifold pressure)

Thanks for the link, I'll get mine set and let you know.

I chose the BOV simply because it was closer to the drivers side and everything I've read indicated the readings should be identical- so they say.
It comes w/ a pretty long connector for the sending unit, but it would be worth measuring as you will be covering a lot of distance from the passenger side cover clear to the drivers a pillar.

Are you going to get a "hitachi" connector to hook your white and one ground to the stereo plug? I'm not satisfied w/ my "vampire clips" in the clock, I couldn't figure out how to remove the wires from that connector.

Mine came w/ two T fittings- one looked like a generic (more Y shaped) plastic piece and then what I was assuming a Subaru specific T (maybe ss) that fit perfectly. I think the small orifice is a must for the sender to get a correct reading vs a mechanical one going clear to the gauge.

Let me know how it goes.

Big Sky

It comes w/ a pretty long connector for the sending unit, but it would be worth measuring as you will be covering a lot of distance from the passenger side cover clear to the drivers a pillar.
That's definitely something I will have to check - I was thinking I would go straight back to the firewall on the passenger side, pass through there, then come over a little past the center of the dash (that's as far as I should need to go - the harness from the gauge should reach to the steering wheel or so - if it doesn't reach, I will just cut the wires a little short of the connector and solder in an extension for each of them, then solder on the connector - no big deal)

Are you going to get a "hitachi" connector to hook your white and one ground to the stereo plug? I'm not satisfied w/ my "vampire clips" in the clock, I couldn't figure out how to remove the wires from that connector.
sounds like you already tried the radio and it didn't work for the dimming - splice wise, I would either use one of the slave type connectors, or cut off the connector from the radio and solder the wires in place (actually, solder extensions onto those wires to bring them up by the clock where I get the rest of the power)

I heard back from Omori - they said that in almost all situations, electronic gauges (not only theirs) couldn't be dimmed in a Subaru because of the way they handle dimmers which is evidently non-standard... sort of curious what Subaru does (that would have been useful info) - guess I will have to dive in with the voltmeter. Of course, I don't know what the Omori gauge expects, either... I do know that both ground wires in the Omori are the same (or at least they are shorted to one another somewhere internal to the gauge) so one of them is not separate for the light circuit as I hoped... I am trying to find out how the Subaru gauge works - there is a relay at the end of the harness which connects to the stereo - I want to find out what it is (maybe it's an inverter or something?)

Mine came w/ two T fittings- one looked like a generic (more Y shaped) plastic piece and then what I was assuming a Subaru specific T (maybe ss) that fit perfectly. I think the small orifice is a must for the sender to get a correct reading vs a mechanical one going clear to the gauge.
Lucky you! I am going to have to order that second T fitting (part no. P-94) for the install - I am not sure why they have the orifice there - it must provide some buffering effect and allow a more precise reading, I suppose...

I want to buy thhis Gauge Pod from Omori,,but to use with a EGT Gauge.
What are the available sizes from Omori??do they make in 52mm??
Wich EGT Gauge fits nic with the Green lights?
Thanks
Tuca

Does the needle light up yellow like the stock gauges do?

Dr D,

I'm glad your not giving up on the dimming (although it sounds like it may be difficult). Sounds like my vendor took care of me on the T fitting:D .

tucca- Omori makes the "same" (green back lit, yellow needle in metric or english units) gauge for EGT in 45,52,60 mm. The 52mm would fit the pod I posted.

2000- I don't think the needle actually lights up- it shows up as well as the oe gauges- I guess I never paid attention, do they actually light up?

Originally posted by SoLo OnE
I bought the Omori 45mm gauge and replaced the column mounted OEM one.

I just shoved the Omori one into the rubber cup. Its about 100000 times better.

I understand that some gauges will fit the stock, rubber cup and some won't. Does anyone know for sure which ones will (besides Omori) and/or which ones will not?

If I come across a used gauge I'd just like to know if it will work.

TIA.

John