i have a RF Power 1100a² amplifier for my subwoofer, and when bridged into 4 ohms makes about 1000 watts RMS. is this amp and sub gonna be too much for the stock alternator? i hear we only have a 75A, and my old Ac had a 105A, and the lights still dimmed heavily. any thoughts?

I have a concept class D 2400W amp and it sucks the power big time. The volt meter on my turbo timer drops down to high 11's in a hurry!!!!! I think that it won;t hurt much but you may not be getting the most out of your amp.

thanks, do you have aftermarket alternator or battery for that sucker? ever have trouble starting the car?

I think you should add some capacitance to your system, probably 1.5 farads or so to make sure that the amp doesn't hit your battery and alternator too often.

Chad

Thats the way to go... a farad cap should help alot... do you have a upgraded battery? try that also... I have a Optima Yellow top... you can try this one or the red top...

even with a cap you'll eventually kill your alternator. IIRC that amp isn't class D i'm assuming since you're getting the most power out of it at 4 ohms, so it's not the most efficient for starters. a cap is instantaneous, it's not going to continuously help the alternator so the rest of the juice is going to come from your battery which should only be used when the car is off. when you add all of the other electrical bits of the car, for example headlights on low beams are rated at 55w, so they'll be pulling about 8-10 amps alone, add in fog/aux lights, interior lighting, all of the relays etc.. you're really putting a ton of stress on the alternator.

yah i have 2 1 farad caps and they don;'t do much!!. I havn't got an alteranter cause i can't find on for a decent ptrice and i have the stock battery. I am fully aware that i need these as my amp is probably making only half of its capable power. What tdflex said above is pretty much on the money

yeah not many choices for upgraded alternators out there, i sort of gave up my search a long time ago and my car audio interest has definately decreased. in my old convertible mustang before the new alternator, i was running an xtant 1001dx and 604x to Diamond Audio HEX components and two RF power 12s all in my tiny trunk. i messed around with all of the electrical combinations back then, i had a 2F capacitor and i borrowed my buddies so i had 4F. the bass hits harder, but if you think it will do more than that you're just kidding yourself. lights still dimmed like crazy and if i didn't turn my stereo down for the last few miles before turning the car off, the battery was near dead.

I used to have that amplifier in my old car. Went through continuous upgrades of the electrical system. Caps (useless), red top, optima yellow top, thicker gauge power wires and grounding, and modified alternator. The modified alternator helped the most. Spent about 400 bucks to get the alternator (120 amps) and custom bracket mount. Went through 2 years of abuse and no problems. Before then i was killing my alternator every year with a PPIA600.

My amp is just sitting in my room right now. Mostly because i do not want to go through all that hassle on my new car. Need to buy another car for my stereo alone. Got a lot of equipment just sitting collecting dust.

I have 2 alpine amps.
1200 watts for the subs
120x4 for the speakers
1 phoenix gold campasitor
with 2 JL w6
Stock battery and it's running fine.

My girl has a corolla and she is running RF 1000 watt power and she has no problems with her stock battery.
I think it would sound better though if you buy a optima battery but you don't have to change it.

Just curious. But do i understand correctly that you have almost 2000watts running off a stock battery and alternator.

Does your sound ever cutoff at loud volumes? Do your lights dim? Do your amps get really hot (shutoff due to overheating)?