Well after 4 months of fitment and road testing these headers are finally ready to go. I wanted to make sure there wouldn't be ANY problems with them so I've had them on my car for the past 4 months and they're still being great to me. I've uploaded a sound clip of the headers + TurboXS Turboback with catalytic converter: Here (2.7 meg MPG) (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/soundclip2.mpg)

-------------
EDIT: New dyno available.. comparing this header with the GT Spec header. Please note that the numbers read low but check out the difference in the tuned cars. The blue line is from my car with the Stone Racing Headers. Both cars had turbobacks, and ported turbos. This is not an altered dyno, both my car and the car with the GT Spec headers were tuned to their maximum power:

HP / Torque: Comparison Dyno (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/dynocomp1.jpg)

Boost Curve: Boost Comparison (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/dynocomp2.jpg)

Pictures:

http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/header.jpg

Technical drawings and a picture of them installed can be found Here (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers)


Highlights
*GREAT Low end torque. Definitely an awesome header for autocross. I'm hitting 16.7 PSI at 3000 rpms on a clipped turbo

* All stainless steel design.. Not even a hint of rust and I've been through snow and rain quite a bit this year. They've been holding up great for me.

* Complete kit with uppipe

* Extra EGT bung for EGT gauges or even an O2 (it's a little close to the manifold for extended O2 sensor usage though)

* Bungs for factory EGT and O2 sensors (These are actually EASIER to get to than the stock locations, I was pleasantly surprised)

* NO LEAKS! I sent my OEM uppipe to the manufacturer to get the upper flange modeled after it. Not even a whisper of a leak since installing them. The uppipe even has a flex joint in it.


Price: $350 Shipped

Payment is easiest through paypal. Our paypal address is ssautochrome@wrxhackers.com These come with a 14 day money back guarantee if for any reason you're not happy with them. If you'd prefer to mail a money order or certified check, or to fax your order in just PM me and I'll give you the information.

Only note about install: The plastic mud guard will need to be trimmed or removed. I just took mine off. Also, if your car is lowered more than 1.5" these may not be for you. The 4-1 design uses large piping to get maximum torque and they do hang down pretty low. I've never scraped with my car but it's stock height.

---------
EDIT: I've redyno'd the car. Check above thread for comparison with the GT Spec headers.

I assume you recomend using the upipe supplied.Any test with just the header and a catless upipe??
Excellent price,,how many do you have?
Rudy:D

ps,how do these sound?,,i do not want to lose the boxer sound.

This is my other name (SSAUTOCHROME = crazyhorse btw)

You have to use the supplied uppipe actually. Take a look at the picture and you'll notice the different flange at the bottom. The nice thick donut gasket there keeps it from leaking like a lot of uppipes tend to do.

We've got 20 of them in stock.

pm'd you

Already replied. :) From the SS Auto Chrome name anyways. I just happened to be on when you PM'd me.

Bump for some AWESOME headers and a great vendor :)

Bump for a good vendor. I got my intake today, and I think I ordered it like 2 or 3 days ago. Very surprised and glad to see it in my possession:)



Mika

Thanks for the feedback guys. :) Mika let me know if you need any help with the intake fitment.

We're getting an assortment of catch cans in soon hopefully. Figure about a week tops. Looks like the pricing is going to be about $70 shipped for the oil catch can. :)

do you have a pic that show how low does it hang down?

also,, does it require mod on subframe?

It clears the subframe just fine. As for how low, I'd say about an inch below the jack plate. I'll nab a picture for you later today if you need one. :)

PM'd you RCYK. :)

Bump for a great vendor! :D Que pasa Tim! I find you everywhere.....:devil:

Ever get that feeling you were being followed.... :lol: Thanks AJ. :)

-Tim

Hmm, interesting RH primary routing. You took it to the other side of the oil filter? How has oil temps been and what was the temperature of the day of your hottest run? It looks like the oil filter would be surrrounded by the primaries and the up pipe and perhaps the filter would suffer from heat sink right after the oil went through cooler. I certainly don't know but would like to know if the oil temps are any higher.

The primaries are shorter than other headers and I would think that should increase the scavenging effect of the 4-1 design at the collector.

What is the i.d. of the primaries? the collector? the up pipe at the collector? the up pipe at the turbo?

I will be following with interest. Unique design that isn't like all those trying to make inexpensive HKS's.

Good call on the oil temps. I had a similar concern and I HIGHLY recommend you wrap these with a heat wrap to keep heat inside of them and out of your engine/oil. ( Racer Wholesale (http://www.racerwholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RW&Category_Code=Tools+%26+Accessories) has wrap for pretty cheap.. not associated with them at all but they've been good to me with my helmet and wrap purchases. Get some of the thicker wrap and some of the safety wire to keep it on there nice and snug. )

I do not have an oil temp gauge installed yet... But I could say that you might see a rise in temps if you don't wrap them. They do run VERY close to the filter and the pan. I don't have the technical specs handy at the moment with the dimensions but I can get them for you tomorrow. I've got a prototype set in my closet at the apartment so I'll see if I have a spanner that'll measure accurately, if not I'll give you my best estimate with a ruler.

LOL

I like very much that you acknowledged the possibility might even exist. I (and I am sure others) appreciate your candor and thoroughness on thinking out the design and possible inpacts. A lot of vendors would jump down my throat daring that I question the design! Like I said I was not sure but it is something to think about - glad that you already have. Some feedback from a user with a gauge before and after the install on warm days would be helpful as you get these into full swing.

I will throw in another wrap supplier for reference - http://www.mmrusa.com/HSwrap.htm I have never used them but had them favorited for future reference if I ever needed some wrap - now I have two.

Holding the heat in the primaries could only help the energy to the turbo. Have you found any problems with the condition of the wrap especially with as wet as our winter has been and the lower profile of the header?

Believe me these headers had quite a bit of feedback in the design phase. The first set they sent me had the bungs in an impossible spot with the subframe in the way of the O2 sensor. Silly me didn't notice this until I was 4 hours away from home, in a borrowed garage, with the headers all bolted in... 6 hours of wrenching total taking out the stock parts, putting the prototype in, taking the prototype out, putting stock parts back on. After that experience I kind of made it my personal goal to make these production ready. I even ended up with a minor concussion after a wrachet slipped off a bolt and whacked me in the forehead. :o

With any stainless header, you're going to lose quite a bit of heat with the length the exhaust has to go through to get to the turbo. Keeping that heat in is often overlooked but definitely important. :) The wrap has been ok here despite the extended exposure to all the snow and rain it's seen this year. I feel even more confident about the headers durability after all the nasty weather we've had. I might end up replacing the wrap in a couple more months but so far it's been ok.

Edit: Btw jehcpa.. I thought I recognized your name.. I'm crazyhorse from wrxhackers.com ;) I've got a UTec map for a stage 2 car + these headers already done up actually. Going to have it fine tuned on the 19th.

Ok.. Measurements for those of you that are interested:

Top & bottom of uppipe: 1 7/8"
Primaries (at exhaust manifold) 1.5"

These are ROUGH measurements taken by myself here with a ruler. Don't have any tools handy to measure the gap accurately but I'll try to find something.

15 Sets left. :)

Just thought I'd post an update. Car is getting redyno'd on Saturday so I'll have accurate numbers then. :)

Originally posted by SSAUTOCHROME
Just thought I'd post an update. Car is getting redyno'd on Saturday so I'll have accurate numbers then. :)

Looking forward to it. I may have a new job next Wed. so you may be hearing from me bright & early on Thurs.:D

The header will get LOTS of AutoX abuse on my car!:devil:

Yea I'm stuck in SM at the moment without a suspension. The joys of modifying your car before being interested in autocross... :lol: I've been happy with the headers thusfar on the course. I know my UTec needs to be dialed in a bit but other than that they've treated me well. I'm leaving tomorrow night to head down to Atlanta and hope to have the dyno's scanned and posted by Saturday night. :) Then I've gotta get my front sway bar on and rewrap the headers by next weekends autocross. Always have something to wrench on. :D

Locally, I should easily beat the SM guys in PAX, but my real nemesis is the ITR's in STX with me. I'm probably giving up some hp right now with a leaky UP, so this should take care of that once and for all.:devil:

Guys, just a suggestion.

You'd be FAR better off wrapping your oil filter w/ heat reflecting material (looks like tin-foil) than the header. Wrapping stainless steel will cause it to crack over time. This will have the same overall effect without messing up the header.

Dan

Originally posted by blv
Guys, just a suggestion.

You'd be FAR better off wrapping your oil filter w/ heat reflecting material (looks like tin-foil) than the header. Wrapping stainless steel will cause it to crack over time. This will have the same overall effect without messing up the header.

Dan

BLV??

haha, guess someone-else here uses I-club. Anyway, didn't mean to post w/ your name bro.

Dan

Well.. That will keep your oil cooler but there are other advantages to having the headers wrapped. The two that come to mind are lower engine bay temps and keeping more heat in the exhaust before the turbo. It basically comes down to a matter of personal preference I guess. Just got done rewrapping mine... if you plan on wrapping yours it is MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to do when they're not on the car... :lol:

Actually that is probably a good idea in general. I am not real pleased with the location of the exhaust manifold even with the filter location - especially when sitting in traffic and heat sink kicks in. I guess it wouldn't be rice if I got a chrome oil pan to keep the heat down - it would be purposeful. This might be the reason that Subaru kept the oil cooler even though they cut a lot of other corners to get the car to $25,000.

Whew.. LONG drive just to get a car dyno'd. I don't have them dynos scanned yet but I have to say we had an interesting day. 3 different brands of headers were dynoed on VERY similar cars.

Some facts that I can now confidently stand behind:

On ported/polished/clipped TD04 (stock) turbo I was hitting 16lbs of boost @ 3000 RPMS :eek:

These headers make more torque and horsepower than the GT spec headers at nearly half the cost.

I'll get the comparison dynos scanned shortly. Each car was basically identical (including the same ported turbo) with the exception of the headers and injectors. The dyno was reading pretty low as well. A TXS stage 2 car down there only made 209 whp today... :confused: I believe my numbers were 220 torque and 215 hp but I'll have to nab the dynos to be sure.

So.. breakdown.. Better than the GT spec headers (those things didn't spool until 3800 rpms), nice torque, more hp than turboxs stage 2 car. :)

Ok here are the first graphs I'll post. I was running out of injectors (98% duty cycle on this map) so I know the car would have more power if I could get more fuel. Guess I know what my next upgraded is.

These two cars have the following components: turboback exhaust, headers with uppipes(gt spec vs stone racing), ported stock turbo, and both were running on 93 octane. They were both also tuned using UTecs by the same tuner. Temperature was 70 degrees for both cars, and the humidity was up around 60% at the time. The blue line is the Stone Racing headers and the green line are the $500 GT Spec headers.



HP/Torque Comparison (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/dynocomp1.jpg)

You'll notice the GT Spec headers just fall flat on their face. I was kinda curious as to why...

Boost Curve Comparison (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/dynocomp2.jpg)

Oh... that's why. The WRX should make max boost by 3500 on the stock turbo, that's right in the band where the power starts coming on. With the GT Spec headers it's still trying to build boost at that point.

Yes, this dyno reads pretty low. A stage 2 TurboXS car with a UTec only hit 209 whp and about 200 torque. I can post that dyno later if you'd like it for comparison.

I know it says for a WRX just wondering This look like the RS style header pipe. This doesn't wrap in front of the oil pan correct? I wonder if this would fit with some re-welding/ flange modifacation on an RS-T???? I'd like to try.

Actually I believe the original design was for a GC8 but the bungs needed to be moved to fit the frame of the newer body style. Other than that the only modifications I had them make were widening them at the manifold about 4mm to make it easier to fit them on. They run pretty close to the oil pan on our MY02 WRXs.

Curious about just how low the header is. Do you have any pictures from the front of the car. Or just how low is the bottom of the pipe from the oil pan. Also was wondering what your thoughts would be about jet-coating. I am very interested but need a couple of questions cleared up. Thanks Jere.

After looking under the car while wrapping mine the other day I'd have to say they're as low as the TurboXS DP is.

Clearance picture: Here (http://crazy-horse.net/ssautochrome/clearance1.jpg)

The angle makes it look lower than it really is. I'll try and take a straight on shot with the car on the ground for ya. It's just a tad lower than the jack plate as you can see.

I've heard decent things about jet hot coating. Doubt it could hurt. =)

Pic of the oil pan clearance: here (http://crazy-horse.net/ssautochrome/oilpanclearance.jpg)

Thanks for the pics, it was what I was looking for. You have mail.

would it fit under a skidplate?

Eric, we can meet up and you can check out my car. You do know that this is Tim right? ;) Depends on how the skidplate is mounted.

JWAG: I believe you received your tracking number this morning. :) Thanks!

I haven't been following the thread much, but is there any difficulty removing the oil filter? What about frame clearance? Is there any clanking against the subframe under acceleration, any notching the frame during installation. Oh, and finally, what is the internal diameter of the piping? Thanks


sherif

Oil filter comes out fine. Only minor complaint is that if you're not careful you'll drip some on the headers. If they're not wrapped I'd suggest cleaning them off to avoid a potential fire hazard. No frame knocking at all, and no notching required. I believe I posted the internal diameters earlier in the thread. If you have a wafer type oil temp gauge you might need to be concerned about clearance.


Ok.. Measurements for those of you that are interested:

Top & bottom of uppipe: 1 7/8"
Primaries (at exhaust manifold) 1.5"

These are ROUGH measurements taken by myself here with a ruler. Don't have any tools handy to measure the gap accurately but I'll try to find something.



Still haven't had a chance to really get a precise measurement. I'll email the company and see if I can get detailed specs for you.

Originally posted by SSAUTOCHROME
Eric, we can meet up and you can check out my car. You do know that this is Tim right? ;) Depends on how the skidplate is mounted.

of course I knew it was you... lemme get up w/ you when I get the skidplate back on.. it's been off since last year.

Do you offer any warranty against cracking, rust-through, or other things that might happen to the headers in the long run (say a year or two)?

I wasn't able to convince the supplier to offer a warranty due to the low price and all the numbers of things that could go wrong. I may be able to convince them to add on a warranty plan for like 50 bucks perhaps... Also working on a package that includes all the gaskets. As of right now all I can say is that I've had my current set on for over 4 months and have had 0 problems with them personally. If there is enough interest I could definitely work out a warranty plan of sorts I'm sure. :)

Well working on sourcing some gaskets for those that might be interested in getting gaskets with the headers. Still have 10 left in stock with more on the way. :)

Jeremiah: Calling my room mate to see if she can dig up your tracking number off my home computer. If I can't get a hold of her I'll have to send it to you tonight. Sorry about that.

Oh incidently.. Stainless steel won't rust. =) If you wrap or coat the header I can't guarantee it won't crack.

Thanks for your quick reply. If you find a good deal on gaskets let me know. Jeremiah..

JWAG: PM'd you the tracking info. :)

Rec'd thanks.. Jere

Chris, from Chicago.. I can't remember your name here but you mailed your order in. I've got tracking info for you so just PM me and I'll get it to ya.

fellfrosch7: Received your payment.. I'll email you a tracking number ASAP.

Thanks everyone! :)

-Tim

Sent out some more shipment emails. If anyone has ordered and has not received a tracking number please let me know.

-Tim

8 left in this shipment but more coming soon.

Can you provide a pic of the ground clearance with this header installed? I read your note about lowered cars, and I have Tanabe DF210 springs. How far does it hang under the stock front bumper?

It's as low as the TurboXS high flow cat on their system, but maybe a tad bit higher. I'd say about an inch below the jack plate.

I'll try to get a better picture but it's maybe 1.5" below the stock bumper. If you'd like to buy a set and see if they're ok you do have 14 days to return it to us for a full refund.

As a side note.. Just finished up my autocross today, took a couple people for rides. They couldn't believe how low my car hit boost. :) 16.7 PSI @ 3000 rpms on a clipped turbo...

have you guys gotten dyno results yet? if so I'd like to see them posted, as well as people's experiences with this unit. I'm very interested in purchasing it (in the near future), if it all turns out well


thanks
sherifx

edit: one more thing. I wanted to know if it retained the subaru lopey exhaust sound or it evened the flow out to the point where it sounded like a regular 4-cyl. thanks.

I posted dynos in the first post. :) The blue line is my car and the green line is a car with the same mods as me but with the GT Spec headers. Both lines were AFTER tuning on the dyno. Smooths out the sound a little but there is definitely still some pulsing. So they're close to equal length but just a bit off.

Mods: Turboback exhaust, UTec, Ported stock turbo, headers

Dyno (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/dynocomp1.jpg)

Boost Curve (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/dynocomp2.jpg)

For reference.. a stage 2 TurboXS car with 16 PSI made 208 whp and 209 torque on the same day on the same dyno. So... it reads about 20 lower than TurboXS's dyno would.

I know it's been stated that these headers are best used for lower range power increases, but I wonder how'd they would do with a "top-end" turbo like the PE1820. Suppose it would help with the spool-up of the bigger turbo? Or are would it be detrimental to the top end potential of a PE1820? Kinda rhetorical questions I guess, but feel free anyone to put your 2 cents in.

Actually.. after the new dyno I can honestly say they do help through the entire power band. I was blown away when I saw my max boost hit at 3000 rpms. Totally unexpected surprise. Honestly I would LOVE to see how these help something like an 1820 spool. My TD04 has a 6 degree clip, which is pretty heavy for such a small turbo and technically that SHOULD make it laggier than stock, but obviously it's not. Haven't gotten any reviews yet from anyone with a big turbo so I'm not sure, but I will have a bigger turbo on the car in a couple months and I plan on keeping my headers on.

OK, I'm ordering, and I think my buddy ordered one too. Anyone wanna buy a used Perrin uppipe? :lol:

Do you know how much wrap I should order? I'll be getting it from Racer's Wholesale...

50 ft of wrap should do the trick. I went with the thinner stuff, seems to do ok and it's cheaper. Definitely brought my engine temps down a bit. If you've got an aftermarket downpipe you might consider grabbing more and wrapping that as well.. Your call. :) I'll have tracking numbers for you two tomorrow.

-Tim

PM'd you the tracking number. :)

Still some sets left in stock for anyone that's interested.

Also.. Still have a couple short shifter kits they dug up at the warehouse and want to get rid of. :)

Hey, I just received my shipment and everything looks great. More impresive than I thought I would be. Do you have a close up pic of the up-pipe were it connects w/ the header. I am just trying to get an idea of what angle they connect at. Jere

http://wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/headersinstalled.jpg

Best I can do. I found out some shipments may have gone out without bolts to connect the lower part of the uppipe to the headers. I'll talk to the warehouse about it but the best bet might be checking Home Depot for bolts and nuts to put in there. The ones they shipped to me with my set were too long as you can see in the picture.

You'll have to flex the uppipe joint a bit to make the uppipe with the headers, but that nice meaty gasket will make sure they seal. =)

I got my header today, looks liek I am one of the lucky ones. :rolleyes: Not a big deal, I have hundreds of bolts laying around my shop, I'll get by. BTW, I have my header in my lap and a roll of wrap in my hand. Do I wrap the pipes individually, or can I do them together where they run parallel?

If you want to wait I've got a shipment of bolts coming in I can send to you... Dunno if it's worth waiting for, probably like 2 bucks worth of bolts at Home Depot. Terribly sorry about that. :o

You can wrap the parallel pipes together, that's what I did. WAY too hard to wrap those pipes by themselves, dunno if the wrap is thin enough to even do that actually. Let me know if you need any help with the install.

-Tim

Got my stuff today I love it. thanks for running such a great deal. Also thank you black WRX for the spring help. Looking to get gaskets which ones do i need? So i can put these babies on.
Noah

Sorry I didn't get you the tracking number on time... :lol:

You need the top uppipe gasket and the manifold gaskets. I've found the manifold gaskets at Napa are cheaper and are pretty meaty. They probably won't have "WRX" gaskets but I think I used gaskets from a Legacy and they fit the same. Might wanna bring in an old one to check the size if you go that route. Scooby South here on the board sells a REALLY nice uppipe gasket. I think his vendor account is Prestige Subaru.

Lemme know if you need any assistance in installing them. Always glad to help out. =)

-Tim

i have done some reseach on this and it seems to be a consensus that wrapping will do the job but at the expense of the header / ex-haust component life.

At the price that we paid you can just get
a replacement when these crack or whatever or you could get the header coated in and out with the HiperCoat2.

The price seems very reasonable and the advantages many. What do you guys think.

HiperCoat (http://www.hpcoatings.com/exhaust_coatings.htm)

Coating is definitely a good option, if you don't mind spending the extra money. :) I've got friends with Jet Hot coating as well and they swear by it.

5 sets left on this shipment for anyone that wants them. Anyone that already ordered if you need any help on installs let me know. :) Uppipes are never fun.

Are you getting more later this summer(and how much will the cost)?

Definitely will be keeping them in stock. Price is not going to change as far as I know. I can guarantee this price for 3 months for sure. :)

Are these made from 304 stainless?

Yes, they are. :)

*sigh*

If you ever make a proper set out of 321 Stainless, let me know. I'll buy 'em.

More than likely it won't happen, the 304 holds up fine. HKS/Greddy use it on most of their exhausts and they don't have any problems. I'm not sure if anyone is making 321 stainless headers.. unless Cusco or one of the other guys charging $1200 for a set is. :confused:

304 stainless is welded with 304, and it wasn't designed for repeated heat cycles above 1600F. The welds get brittle and crack. Your 304 headers may not fall off the car, but you'll have hairline cracks and pinhole leaks in less than 18 months.

321 stainless is welded with 342, which remains relatively ductile well past 1600F (it was designed to do that...), meaning the welds won't crack.

Yeah, it'll cost more, but it'll also last...

You ppl sure are picky on stuff. Why do think they invented stuff like JB Weld. It works wonders.. Ive seen ppl use it on hairline cracks in blocks and the blocks actually fail somewhere else first.

Chris

Correct me if I'm wrong but there are several headers out right now made of 304, I've yet to hear of a case of cracking. I'd be more than happy to see if they'd considering changing steel, but personally, after having the headers on my car for several months through snow, rain, etc I've yet to see ANY problems with them.

Buy these excellent headers and get them coated. They will last even longer plus you will get all the added benefits of the heat retention and corrosion protection.

I brougth mine this morning should have them by this Thursday.

These are the guys. http://www.vacaero.com/english/main.html

Just wanted to say kudos for the unconventional design of these headers. I like the fact that the only joints in the system are at a location that is easily serviceable (right by the oil filter rather than tucked up under the car like the stock 3 peice manifold deisgn). I don't know that these would work for me because I have the JIC coilovers and my car is pretty low (my TXS downpipe/cat rubs certain speedbumps if I'm not careful)

Also, just some food for thought, WRX trannys aren't all that tolerant of torque spikes, I know that since Subaru sucks about their warranty coverage, I would almost prefer a slightly later boost spike just to save the tranny...... feel free to flame, cause I know that it goes against the commonly accepted full-boost-sooner mentality.

Either way, GREAT header, and great design. If I ever raise my car, I'm sending you a PM, Tim :)

Jay

Jay, you're always welcome to buy a set and see if they are too low for you. I'd be happy to refund your money if it turns out they won't work.

I'll pass along the praise to the Stone Racing guys in England. :)

Tim,

I may just take you up on that....although anything to do with the uppipe is a knuckle-dusting-pain-in-the-ass that I would now rather pay someone to do....where are you guys located again?? :)

Jay

:lol: Trust me I know.. I did all the fitment testing on this piece myself. 4 versions later..... :o The SS Auto Chrome business is actually just a parts warehouse here in NC. I did the fitment testing and offered feedback, etc on the design so I got to sell them here for commission.

If you're up this way for the dragon or something I'd be more than happy to help you in exchange for food and drink. See what the Mod Squad is up to here in the near future!

Yet one more reason for me to move to Charlotte.....someday....

I will keep you posted on this though, that may very well be my next purchase.

Jay

Anybody have pics of their wrapped headers? Jere..

I'll try and get a pic of my headers for you. They're looking a little rough now that I had a coolant problem, I'll wash off all the baked on coolant and get a picture. :D

Everyone else.. Just got some more headers in stock. :)

Couple questions

So IM not quite sure what im loking at in the pic. So does the uppipe provided have a cat?

Can you use these without any tuning on stock ECU

And there is somone selling the same headers on Ebay. Or at least using the same pic. You the same person?

I'm not the same person but they're coming from the same place. My personal experiences with the Ebay seller have NOT been good.

The uppipe has a flex joint but no cat.

You can put them on a car with no tuning but like any part you need to tune the car to get the absolute most from it. The low end torque and spoolup you'll get without tuning, but tuning means more of it. =)

Not even close to fitting the turbo...looks like the uppipe-turbo flange is bent, and the bolts are welded in crooked. Is this the only one like that?

As far as I know.. yes.. I haven't heard of any other problems like that. Could you get a picture for me? I just sent a turboback to a guy and FedEx nearly destroyed the thing in shipping.

Email me the info about the problem and I'll see what I can do to help ya. :) tim@wrxhackers.com

So how hard are these to install? I have alot of experience installing other bolt-ons so would I be able to do this by myself?
Im very interested!

Well the uppipe is one of the tougher bolt on pieces to do. But... If you have experience working on the car it shouldn't be too bad. The manifold part is east stuff. And actually the hardest part of installing an uppipe is getting to it through all the heat shielding, etc.

I just got mine back from coating please do not tell me that this is what yours looked like. Cause I just checked and as you can see in the picture the flange does seem to drop off on one side.

Let me know at least before I do the install.

Flange looks ok to me... I've had 3 sets that I've put on my car and I've never had a problem with that top flange. My guess is that it was just one bad piece. Incidently.. I sent my OEM uppipe to the guys so that they could model the top flange after it and get the fitment perfect. I'm sure you'll be fine.

Here is the pic with the ruler you can see on one side it tapers down.

nicd: I can't tell from the picture whether that's off or not honestly. My suggestion... fit it up and see if it matches up. If not.. We'll figure out a way to reimburse you for the trouble. I don't think that will be a problem though. As I've said.. the 3 sets I've put on my car have all been fine. I don't think the manufacturer in the UK would suddenly start goofing them up.

PS the flange is a little off. I hope I do not have to get a new one as I just got it ceramic coated. Hopefully with the gasket and the nuts I will be able to do a good connection so as not to have any leaks. Here is the picture of both peices coated:

Here it is:

3 sets? Why that many?

It was my job to test these headers before they went into production so I wanted to make sure that they fit... The first set had the O2 bung in the wrong spot and it would have been impossible to get the O2 sensor in because of the lack of clearance with the subframe. 2nd set fixed that problem was was just a little too tight on the manifold. The third set that I'm using now has the extra bung welded in and is 2mm wider at the manifold. Unfortunately when they added length they made it a tighter fit on the uppipe somehow. Not my ideal fit, but it did bolt in and hasn't leaked. Honestly can't beat it for the price.

I had a major problem installing the up-pipe to the turbo. It would seem that the welded bolts were angled out a little. Or maybe the flange was bent like NICD said. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the bolts into there holes on the turbo. What I did to make it fit was drill out 2 holes larger on the turbo using a 1/2" drill bit on the downpipe side. Then it slid in with a good push. And yes I had to use a little muscle to get the up-pipe attached to the header, as it hits the header on its way down.
Now about the oil filter, are you sure it will come out? Check out the photo. I wedged in that material used on the stock exhaust manifold to protect the filter from some heat (if you were wondering what that stuff is).
I am not too happy about the totally different exhaust note either. But I have heard that about all other SS exhaust headers on the WRX.
I really feel the power difference with my special tuned neck muscles! I not 100% satisfied because of the fit, but you get what you pay for.

Hrrmmmm... Ok.. from now on I'll make sure the bolts on the top of the flange are NOT welded into place. It's pretty obvious that the guys welding them can't get them straight. I'll be drafting up some emails and making some calls tonight and making sure that this does NOT happen again. It's ridiculous that I get a set that works perfectly for testing and then they slack off on the finished product.

I've got the same filter on my car right now. It comes out just fine. In fact I just changed it 2 days ago. The flange on the top should be fine.. my guess is that it's the bolts that are screwed up.

So.. future headers will not have welded uppipe bolts. There is just too much room for error there and I don't want anyone else to have this problem. Thank you for taking the time for the feedback.

Hopefully the good ole butt dyno is at least satisfied now that you got them installed. You can guarantee that moving to a more equal length header will always change the exhaust note, especially if you're using a really open muffler.

Ok.. already got a reply back. The warehouse is notifying the manufacturer that all future headers need to have loose bolts. No more of this crooked stuff.

If anyone that has already purchased a set can't get theirs on please email or PM me and we'll sort it out.

Thanks, and sorry for the hassle on the sets that did have crooked studs.

-Tim
tim@wrxhackers.com

Sound from my WRX (http://www.ray.wroten.com/images/exhaust.mp3) after the install of the header. I have an Exhaust Depot catless downpipe and stock cat-back exhaust. And a bunch of other mods. Car looks stock but runs 13.7 1/4 mile. Have not tested it yet with new headers or Unichip, but will head to the track as soon as I install my new clutch.

My WRX (http://www.ray.wroten.com/interest.htm)

Thanks for the sound clip! :)

Ok guys.. Every header leaving the warehouse know undergoes a check before being shipped. Turns out we had a couple bad apples but the majority of the headers didn't have any problems. We're waiting on a shipment of uppipes to come in that have loose bolts so that there is no way they can be crooked.

I just picked up a new digital camcorder so I though I'd get a clip of my exhaust sound as well. Please note.. this is with my car cold. I'll post one later of it when it's warmed up.

Exhaust Mods: TurboXS Turbo Back w/Cat + Stone Racing Headers



2.2 Meg Sound/Video Clip (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/headersoundclip.mpg)

Crazyhorse, on the next sound clip can you leave your foot on the throttle for a little longer, rather then just blip? Thanks. :)

Nice video clip though. Hmmmm, I'll have more funds available next month! We shall see. :devil:

Will do.. I'll go out there in just a few for ya. :)

I was goofing off towards the end of this one.. Got a lil BOV happy. :lol: Oh.. I let the car warm up more so the idle sound is now with the car fairly warm. As you can see it's a bit cooler than usual today. :)

Clicketh for Sound Clip #2 (http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/soundclip2.mpg)

very nice.

question:

If possible, how much without the uppipe? I already have a flex PDE.

I am hoping that by wrapping the header will protect the Oil Filter.

TIA

Not possible to use another uppipe.. It's a completely different flange set up. So.. if you liked the header you could sell the uppipe you have and make about half the cost back. Just an idea. :) I've not have any issues with the heat and the oil filter.

Can i get this without an uppipe for less money? the uppipe is not necessary for me (hugs his new HKS uppipe)

thanks

Originally posted by crazyhorse
Not possible to use another uppipe.. It's a completely different flange set up. So.. if you liked the header you could sell the uppipe you have and make about half the cost back. Just an idea. :)

Originally posted by crazyhorse
Not possible to use another uppipe.. It's a completely different flange set up. So.. if you liked the header you could sell the uppipe you have and make about half the cost back. Just an idea. :) I've not have any issues with the heat and the oil filter.
Boy you people are dense:rolleyes:

Now now.. play nice in my thread. :) But yes.. for all future inquiries..

These headers will NOT work with any other uppipe.

:D I don't see how you'd expect to get much lower than $350 anyways. ;)

I love the idea of your header but the sound is kinda throwing me off. It kind of reminds me of a civic with a coffee can on the end which I don't like(well actually hate). Here is what exhaust I am planing to run:

Your headers/up-pipe(can I use different up-pipe?J/K)
Scooby Sport Catback
HKS Downpipe
Haven't decided on mid pipe yet

Would this produce the type of sound that came from fatrays?
And do you think this is a good setup?

BEN:disco:

The scooby sport isn't near as loud as some exhausts. Did you check out the clip of my car? That doesn't sound like a honda at all if you ask me. Almost reminds me of a turbo VW up at the higher rpms. Definitely a burble at idle that reminds you it's a scooby. :)

My only comment is that HKS is made in Tawain and is known to be slacking off in quality. I'm not sure what the downpipe is made of, hopefully not mild steel.

I liked the sound of it on your car but not on fatrays car. I think his sounds like a honda(no offence). Why do you think it sounds like that on his car? Maybe because he is stock from cat back? or maybe it is his mods that make him pull a 13.7.

BEN

It's hard to say.. I'd think mine would sound more "honda'ish" since I have a more open exhaust. Personally I like to think of it as a Rally Car sound. The WRC Scoobies use equal length headers. And I've yet to meet a honda that sounded like my car. :lol: It does smooth out the burble some but I like it.

My mods: TurboXS Turboback, headers, ported/polished turbo and of course my UTec. You have to remember that stock muffler is VERY restrictive so it's going to change the sound quite a bit. One dyno tuner found out taking it off is good for 10 whp when you have a downpipe.. :eek:

So basically.. the consensus is that it will smooth the boxer rumble out, but I can't say that it sounds like any Honda I've ever heard. Almost sounds like the old VW Turbos. :)

Not to sound like I'm hacking your thread but r u sure that stone racing is from England? Any additional information on them? :confused: Cuz this header looks like the stone racing headers that are made and sold in Taiwan. I was going to purchase one of these but backed off on it after visiting the factory and compared the bending/welding job on it witht he GT-Spec header I have now........I'm glad that I chose the GTspec version....comes with a good 2 year warranty too

How long has anyone had these on? I'd like to see some durability issues qualmed yeah you cant beat the price. Jus tthinking of how long they last

Going on 5 months.. I was the original tester and I still have the final set on the car. No signs of trouble on any welds or flanges.

WRX_on_BOOST: Did you see the dyno charts? That blue line is the GT Spec header... The green one with 15 more torque is this header. ;) The guy whose car that was already took them off. Evidently the tuner that tuned both cars has some experience with them and has never gotten good results. I was informed that the company is based out of the UK. Can't say that I've personally visited to confirm it.

If you want to pay more for the GT Spec that is dyno proven to actually hurt performance you're more than welcome to. The welds on this header might not be as pretty but they are beefy and hold up very well. Personally I prefer performance over looks and they're under my car anyways. :)

Well upon reviewing the pictures you provided once more I have to say that there are a few things I have to point out:
http://wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/headersinstalled.jpg
The welding seems very messy and the pipes don't even look like they were mandrel bent. One good thing is that it uses donut gasket to prevent leakage though.

http://wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/headerstechnicaldrawing1.jpg
This is the tech drawing you provided and on the bottom right hand side everything is indicated in Chinese. However you indicated that this company is based in U.K. but you cannot be sure or provide any additional information on them. I tried to search for their information in U.K. websites but could not find any.

I have not heard of a company that does not back it's product by a reasonable warranty. You indicated that you have the header on your car fro approx 5 months with no problem but in the case of a header I would say that it¡¦s a mod that will be staying on the car for a long time. Personally I would not trust a vendor who does not provide all information to his customers and cannot back up his product even if the price is competitive.

If I raised the price I could provide a warranty... Feel free to get feedback from people that know me personally. (deadbolt, Scooby South, trhoppe [who I happen to be sponsoring in the Pro Solo events], KC, or even Orion) Out of all the sets I've sold I have had 2 returned. 1 for a fitment issue that's been corrected, and 1 because the car was lowered too much for clearance issues.

The headers are coming to US from the UK. I had the city name in a previous post and I'm trying to find it. A brand name is not necesarily the plant name. Regardless, a pretty weld is not always a strong weld. Is the UK warehouse having them made elsewhere? Possibly... HKS and Greddy are both made in Tawain, so maybe these are too? As the reseller all I know is that my source is a warehouse in NC that gets them from the UK.

Like I said.. if you'd prefer a prettier header there are plenty out there. However, in my personal experience they do nothing or even hurt performance. If you don't want to take my word for it call Kevin @ Knowledge Performance in Atlanta. He's tuned many cars on their AWD dyno and will attest to the fact that the vast majority of the headers out on the market actually hurt performance. Case in point: GT Spec Headers. I couldn't believe how poorly those performed. Yea.. they're pretty.. and you've got a 2 year warranty.. but why spend the $500 on something that hurts your cars performance? :confused:

I'm not a salesman, I'm an end user who was rewarded the opportunity to sell what I thought was a great product after my months of testing. I put a lot into testing these and I stand behind them or I wouldn't be here selling them. Please, if you don't have experience with them personally don't troll in my thread. Ask anyone that's PM'd or emailed me about how honest and open I am with them.

Thank you,
Tim McKenzie
tim@wrxhackers.com

Any update on skidplate/header fitment? I have Primatives' plate and it looks like there may be some clearance issues. Major or minor trimming involved? thanks.

I've not been able to meet up with Rebellion to check it out yet. He was supposed to come to a big meet we had in the mountains but was unable to attend. Can you get a picture of how the skidplate mounts?

http://www.subiegal.com/SGRacing/wrx%20wagon/2-11%20crunchtime/skid%20plate.jpg

c/o Subie Gal

I'm 99% sure it won't clear that. Looks like it's just a replacement for the plastic guard that's already under there. To install the headers you have to cut or remove that plastic guard so I'm pretty sure that's not going to work.

Originally posted by crazyhorse
Going on 5 months.. I was the original tester and I still have the final set on the car. No signs of trouble on any welds or flanges.

WRX_on_BOOST: Did you see the dyno charts? That blue line is the GT Spec header... The green one with 15 more torque is this header. ;) The guy whose car that was already took them off. Evidently the tuner that tuned both cars has some experience with them and has never gotten good results. I was informed that the company is based out of the UK. Can't say that I've personally visited to confirm it.

If you want to pay more for the GT Spec that is dyno proven to actually hurt performance you're more than welcome to. The welds on this header might not be as pretty but they are beefy and hold up very well. Personally I prefer performance over looks and they're under my car anyways. :)

I dunno about everyone else.....but 5 months is DEFINITELY not convincing enough for me to trust the durability of this header. Plus I don't think the price is an excuse for not giving out warranty even when u say you're behind your product 100%.

http://www.wrxhackers.com/ssautochrome/Headers/dynocomp1.jpg
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=318810&highlight=borla+header
http://www.ravspec.com/deusshow.asp?catID=391

Yes I saw the Dyno chart of this header, the GT-SPEC one and even the Borla one. However we all know that dyno chart can be easily misleading when all of the tested cars are not fully stock and also not IDENTICALLY modified. Plus we all know that dyno graphs can be easily "made to impress" as well. In this case we can only say that according to these dyno graphs (whether all of them are real or not), this header made more gain than both GT-SPEC and Borla on cars with minor upgrades. I do not know if the car with the Borla header has anything else on it besides cat-back and uppipe. I do know that the car with GT-SPEC header had an intake and a cat back (there¡¦s no PORTED/POLISHED/CLIPPED turbo there¡K¡K¡Kif you still wanna call it stock).

STONE: Top&bottom of uppipe¡X1 7/8¡¨, Primaries (at exhaust manifold) 1.5¡¨
GT-SPEC: Uppipe to turbo¡X2¡¨, Uppipe to manifold¡X2.3¡¨, collector on manifold¡X2.3¡¨, each cylinder¡X1.57¡¨, velocity chamber¡X1.9¡¨, 12mm flange thickness, 2mm pipe thickness.

The measurements on this header is smaller than the ones from GT-SPEC so it makes sense that this might actually help the spooling earlier with a small turbo. However it also means that logically with heavier modification GT-SPEC header should be able to pump out a lot more.

I don¡¦t think you should make a false statement like this trying to bash other brand of headers out there (as we can see on the dyno graphs¡K¡Kthey all have gains but just on a different level base on the different modifications). I have to admit that this header has its own unique design and it may work better than other in some cases. However we do not have enough sufficient data to say that this is better than the other ones out there (if so why the company can¡¦t back it up with a warranty but trying to steer away the focus). Plus in my opinion the craftsmanship of a product also reflects how much heart the developer put into the item and the level of quality that¡¦s demanded.

Dude, its freakin $350, if you dont like it you can turn around and sell it to someone for $300 easy. Its not like you are spending $1000 on something that you cant resell for $500...

And its a piece of stinkin metal, you can just have any problems FIXED by anyone who knows how to weld! sheesh...

Originally posted by WRX_on_BOOST


However we all know that dyno chart can be easily misleading when all of the tested cars are not fully stock and also not IDENTICALLY modified. Plus we all know that dyno graphs can be easily "made to impress" as well. In this case we can only say that according to these dyno graphs (whether all of them are real or not), this header made more gain than both GT-SPEC and Borla on cars with minor upgrades. I do not know if the car with the Borla header has anything else on it besides cat-back and uppipe. I do know that the car with GT-SPEC header had an intake and a cat back (there¡¦s no PORTED/POLISHED/CLIPPED turbo there¡K¡K¡Kif you still wanna call it stock).


I don¡¦t think you should make a false statement like this trying to bash other brand of headers out there (as we can see on the dyno graphs¡K¡Kthey all have gains but just on a different level base on the different modifications).

I will ask you not to post in my thread again if you're going to continue to call me a liar. I'm a user here just like yourself, I do not own a shop or run a performance business online. How dare you accuse me of using altered or "made to impess" dyno graphs.

The point is.. My dyno comparison is based on the same dyno on the same day with only 30 minutes seperating the two cars. You CANNOT compare different dynos, there's just no way both will give the same number ranges. The other car that I haven't gotten the sheet for was a Stage @ TXS car that made 208 hp and around 207 torque. Now.. TXS claims that it should be 230 based on their dyno... It's all relative. Feel free to PM deadbolt (one of the long standing moderators here) and ask him about the GT Spec headers, since that was his car on the dyno.

GT Spec Dyno: Ported/polished turbo, turboback exhaust, TXS TMIC, STi Injectors, UTec (fully tuned on the dyno), GT Spec headers.

My dyno: Ported/polished turbo (deadbolt machined both), turboback exhaust, UTec (fully tuned on the dyno), Stone Racing Headers.

I gave you a perfectly valid reference to call to confirm all this but you chose to troll my thread before actually doing the research. Feel free to call Kevin @ Knowledge Performance and ask him about his experiences with GT Spec headers. (678-445-0688)

Please.. don't troll this thread accusing me of falsifying information. I worked long and hard to test this header and like I said, I'm just a Subaru owner like the rest of you. If it was in my power to offer a warranty believe me I would. Some things are just not practical when you're selling this cheap. Incidently.. In that 5 months Charlotte has gotten several snow storms, more rain than Seattle, etc... and they're still fine.

WRX_on_BOOST, I could understand where you're coming from and I think you really got some good points. But let's be nice and not get anybody pissed here since you're already happy with what you got. :)

Kotstamojen
And its a piece of stinkin metal, you can just have any problems FIXED by anyone who knows how to weld!
yeh, it's $350, but how much would it be after fixing a piece of stinkin metal??
:eek:

SSAUTOCHREOME,

How much would you raise if you can offer warranty? Because if the header breaks or leaks after 8 months then I have to spend the time and go through the hassle of fixing it or pay another $350 to get a new one. I think the price is great but if I have to deal with the hassle then no thanks (my car is like my legs.....I can't get no where without it). I'm really interested but if you can provide us a little bit more information on the company I think more of us will feel safer to purchase this product. Thanks and thumbs up for the effort!!! :D

Originally posted by RazorFist
Kotstamojen
And its a piece of stinkin metal, you can just have any problems FIXED by anyone who knows how to weld!
yeh, it's $350, but how much would it be after fixing a piece of stinkin metal??
:eek:

Cheap, $20-40 to fix it. I bought some used borla headers for $150 that were cracked like a mo'fo, cost $20 to get them fixed and they work fine now. Same goes for a header like this if it were to have weld/crack problems over time, its fixable and for cheap if there ever actually is a problem to begin with. It would cost more to ship the bugger back for the warranty if there was a warranty than to have it fixed, lets just say that and end it there.

Just a cool note I wanted to drop. :) 2 Sponsored cars with our headers took 1st and 2nd place in STX (i believe that's the class KC and Tom Hoppe run in. :) ) at the pro solo in VA this past weekend. Congrats to both of you!

Originally posted by SSAUTOCHROME
Just a cool note I wanted to drop. :) 2 Sponsored cars with our headers took 1st and 2nd place in STX (i believe that's the class KC and Tom Hoppe run in. :) ) at the pro solo in VA this past weekend. Congrats to both of you!

Sent you an e-mail....

Hey, I didn't get the email yet.. could you resend? tim@wrxhackers.com

Thanks!

Are they still selling for 350$, also I know there is a dyno sheet, but basically what hp and tq will i get from this, have turboxs turbo back and access ecu.

I can't give you the exact numbers because dynos are all relative. What I can say is that you should see 10+ torque to the wheels immediately and around 20 with a retune. HP is generally just a bit under where the torque gets dialed in at. And yes, the price is unchanged.

Just a bump and to let everyone know...

We threw out 28 sets of headers today that were in the warehouse due to bad flanges. Stone Racing is sending us replacements but we still have 10 sets that have been double checked for straight flanges and studs and are ready to go.

This sounds like an interesting thread to follow.

PROS:
price
power

CONS:
tight clearance by oil filter
less ground clearance
can't use other uppipes
can't use skidplate
304 instead of 321
no warranty
unknown manufacturer
smoother, less boxer-like exhaust tone

So far it looks like price is holding it's own, though. Hard to argue with cheap ponies.:)

Well... In my book it comes down to results. Because when you get down to it... Headers are just hollow metal tubing. Doesn't matter what name is on them. ;) The idea is to get more power, and these definitely accomplish that. :D

I thought you couldn't use and uppipe on all headers?

This set comes with an uppipe that has to be used... It uses a much different flange design than stock. Actually a lot less likely to leak since it's a nice big meaty donut gasket. Not to mention you can find replacement gaskets at any exhaust shop. :)

So what's the consensus...

SSAutoChrome header = better for stock turbo, perhaps slightly larger turbos, but will begin to hurt performance with bigger turbos

GTSpec header = not worthwhile until you upgrade to a bigger turbo

What I want to know is.. is the SSAutoChrome tubes larger diameter over the stock header?

And why hasn't anybody done this: Dyno using a aftermarket uppipe with stock header. Then on the SAME car, dyno with aftermarket uppipe+header.. This will give you a true power difference on a SPECIFIC turbo.

When someone does the above, it will finalize my answer in buying any solitary header. What it seems like to me is that every header reseller is forced in some way or another (money being the root of all evil) to make something sound better than it is. Nobody can come up with any factual information regarding performance on a stock turbo, performance on larger turbos, etc. etc. If i'm going to sell something, i'm going to go to the extreme and sacrifice my time to get the real statistics on whether or not it makes power. So take a little time and money and pull your header off, and put the stock header on with a an aftermarket uppipe.. and dyno.. then we can get some accurate results.

Jay

Basically... The GT Spec isn't worth buying.. at all. Doesn't matter if it's a bigger turbo. Feel free to confirm that with Knowledge Performance in Atlanta. They had a guy with a VF30 on for a while with the headers. Couldn't figure out why it wouldn't make the power it should, pulled them off, problem solved.

With just an uppipe you will get very noticeable gains, that cat really hurts performance. But.. I've never seen a dyno with just an uppipe that put out the torque that this setup did.

Basically... The GT Spec isn't worth buying.. at all. Doesn't matter if it's a bigger turbo. Feel free to confirm that with Knowledge Performance in Atlanta. They had a guy with a VF30 on for a while with the headers. Couldn't figure out why it wouldn't make the power it should, pulled them off, problem solved.


Wow, that is so un true. How can you bash other company products like that. I have a VF-30 with GT SPEC header. The header make a huge differences !!! I have it installed in MSPT. They have several customers with the GT SPEC header, all have nothing but praise. If you don't believe it, call them directly.

www.mspt.net

I am stating fact based on time spent on the dyno in Atlanta. I've seen the GT Spec in action several times. In each case the person decided to sell the header. Feel free to call up Kevin @ Knowledge and confirm it. Or.. Talk to the moderator here: deadbolt (Jerry) He's one of my better friends here on the site and that's his car on the dyno sheet.

Has anyone here had problems with ground clearance with this header? I just put it on my 98 Impreza with a WRX swap, and they hang really low - about as low as the cat in my TurboXS system. However, they are at the front of the car, and I don't want to hit a bump and have the header ripped out of the head. On top of that, my car is still at stock height. Does anybody with a lowered WRX have these? Any issues with hitting stuff?

fell: Got a photo? That would help alot to be able to tell how the ground clearance is.

My WRX is lowered about 1.8" in the front. I've scraped once but that was because I wasn't thinking and hit the brakes hard before a speed bump and that caused the front to dive. I believe I've said all along that the clearance is an issue for anyone with a lowered car. I was a little scared at first but mine has been fine.

This isn't the best angle to picture it, but it's all I've got...

http://www.rit.edu/~rwr2545/swap/images/progress/DSCF0056.JPG

Tim,

Received my headers & just sent them off to Jet Hot for coating. :D

-Steve

p.s. If I'd been thinking, I would've had you send them straight to Jet Hot!:rolleyes:

How much does the JHC cost for a regular sized header?

Originally posted by garface
How much does the JHC cost for a regular sized header?

$190 for the Sterling coating, and $25 more for the 2000 coating. I went with the 2000, as the Sterling is only rated for 1300 degrees - which seems marginal for the kinds of EG temps suby's generate.

-Steve

p.s. I also talked to Swain Tech, and their prices were pretty comparable.

Thank you. Is there any type of data on what increase in temp you'll get after coating? I guess that depends on what the header material is. :)

Bump for any long term updates?

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

lol rifts.. I can't believe you brought this back from the dead! KC won nationals this year with the headers and Tom Hoppe did well with them as well. As far as I know they both still have them on their cars. Had to sell mine when I blew my motor. :( Oh btw.. lemme know if you still need those heads. I was so busy last week I didn't get them off the block.