arejay
08-10-2000, 06:13 PM
This post was in response to the more detailed procedure. I'll post the entire procedure later . . . once I find where I filed it.
Replacing Brake Pads on Your SVX
1. You need a 12mm socket for the rear caliper bolt and a 14mm socket for the front caliper bolt. Whoever posted said you needed a 10mm socket.
2. Wrap the brake fluid reservoir with rags to contain the eventual overflow.
3. I have absolutely no idea what the person who posted the directions did with the C clamp. Yes, you do need a C clamp, but he said something about putting the clamp on the pad and squeezing against the caliper. That was impossible. With the caliper hinged up, you will notice a round hole (1 on the back and 2 on the front). Take your 3 inch C clamp (I found out the hard way that 2 inch doesn't work)and use that to push the outer edge of the hole(s) (piston(s)?) (I am not technical on terms)in. If you don't, as I found out, the caliper won't swing back down because the new pads are much meatier than the old ones and stick out. Once you push the piston in enough, the caliper will swing back down over the pads.
4. Use a bungee cord to hold the caliper up. It kept falling down and was irritating, but the bungee cord is a quick fix. The hinged calipers make doing this job SO much easier. Thanks Subaru!!!
5. Do the back wheels first. They are easier and will inspire confidence to get the rest of the job done.
6. Remove and install the pad farthest from you first. Somehow I think that makes getting the front pad on easier.
[This message has been edited by arejay (edited August 10, 2000).]
Replacing Brake Pads on Your SVX
1. You need a 12mm socket for the rear caliper bolt and a 14mm socket for the front caliper bolt. Whoever posted said you needed a 10mm socket.
2. Wrap the brake fluid reservoir with rags to contain the eventual overflow.
3. I have absolutely no idea what the person who posted the directions did with the C clamp. Yes, you do need a C clamp, but he said something about putting the clamp on the pad and squeezing against the caliper. That was impossible. With the caliper hinged up, you will notice a round hole (1 on the back and 2 on the front). Take your 3 inch C clamp (I found out the hard way that 2 inch doesn't work)and use that to push the outer edge of the hole(s) (piston(s)?) (I am not technical on terms)in. If you don't, as I found out, the caliper won't swing back down because the new pads are much meatier than the old ones and stick out. Once you push the piston in enough, the caliper will swing back down over the pads.
4. Use a bungee cord to hold the caliper up. It kept falling down and was irritating, but the bungee cord is a quick fix. The hinged calipers make doing this job SO much easier. Thanks Subaru!!!
5. Do the back wheels first. They are easier and will inspire confidence to get the rest of the job done.
6. Remove and install the pad farthest from you first. Somehow I think that makes getting the front pad on easier.
[This message has been edited by arejay (edited August 10, 2000).]