Originally posted by RichQY

really weird.. i hope the tech at Irvine will keep me from going insane. everyone tells me i am paranoid. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Get the knocklink and drive with confidence:lol:

i went out driving hard today!!!

very hard!!!

i dont' think it pinged...

but at 3 K rpm it makes fluttering sound.. maybe i was 1 gear too high

if i rev above 3.5 K and keep it up there.. i get no sound at all...

except my friends' screaming

Originally posted by Soon2bSubbieowner


No ish it cant be driven without an ECU, but Im pretty sure after they replace the ECU there gonna have to test drive the car to make sure it works :rolleyes: and 4 - 6 Days to reflash an ECU are you joking me, I dont care what anyone says it shouldnt take that long. An hour AT THE MOST. I wouldnt care about a backlog issue. I would wait for the part the stuff to come in, drop off my car and for this kind of fix pick it up the next day.

There's a reason why your a soon 2 be owner, and we're owners...

Having had a 1st allocation WRX (READ: the FIRST automatic black wagon in the state of illinois off the truck) we know first hand how their practices work. Get ready for a lot of the same, or just keep your skyline.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Got my car back from dealer yesterday. Took tech for a drive, he heard the det and said will send data he took from ECU along with his note on dets to SOA. We'll see what they say. I got a re-flashed ECU already and runing Cali. 91. Manager wasn't in to give me official word on power loss after re-flash(I asked him to check with SOA), but there is another thread with dyno results from re-flashed ECU on this forum.

ok.. car is in.. due back next Tuesday.

they reproduce my cliamed "flutter" noise.. they have no clue if it's pinging or not.
will send in for reflash anyway

in the mean time i got a Focus... Gee. this thing has no power
but it handles

Originally posted by RichQY
ok.. car is in.. due back next Tuesday.

they reproduce my cliamed "flutter" noise.. they have no clue if it's pinging or not.
will send in for reflash anyway

in the mean time i got a Focus... Gee. this thing has no power
but it handles

Does anyone know what this fluttering/ticking is? I have the same thing 3-3.5k rpms but other then those rpms the engine sounds completely smooth.

I have only heard cars with bad detonation i do not know what mild detonation sounds like and everyone who has had det problems has had them between 4-4.5k.

Let me know if the reflash got rid of the flutter

np. i only get taht flutter too.. hopefully the reflash won't lower my HP and Torque

car is due back tomorrow afternoon..

i miss her so bad..

Talked to the manages at subaru dealership, word form SOA rep was that "the power after re-flash should be exacly the same". So, no worries mates. :banana:

Also waiting on word form subaru about my det after re-flash. Hopefuly I'll hear something in next few days.

Originally posted by RichQY
np. i only get taht flutter too.. hopefully the reflash won't lower my HP and Torque

car is due back tomorrow afternoon..

i miss her so bad..

... no loss of power whatsoever, in fact you will have a more consistent engine.

ok .. back !!!!

drove 35 miles on it

revved to 5500 rpm only as usual..

it does pull smoother now.. doesn't quite pack the kick as before..

but this is just 35 miles ..


1 thing though. the Flutter noise is still there..!!!

i ll drive/break in 500 miles on it asap... to see any difference.

Can anyone say weather the flutter from 3-3.5k is pinging or not? I defenetly hear fluttering there but I dont want to get my ecu reflashed if its not pinging.

Originally posted by afpdl
Can anyone say weather the flutter from 3-3.5k is pinging or not? I defenetly hear fluttering there but I dont want to get my ecu reflashed if its not pinging. thats what i ask the mechanic.. they have no clue.

i don't think it is.. cuz the sound happens around 20 % throttle ..
definitely not WOT..

Well it happens to me anywhere from 20% to 100% throttle just as long as I am accelerating in some way at 3k rpms i get that fluttering clicking noise. And it doesnt sound like pinging I have heard on other cars or like other people are describing there pinging.

I've also noticed this. Sounds similar to detonation, but it is not. It's also a lot more quiet. I think I've seen this discussion before but can't remember. Maybe something about an A/F sensor.

Does anyone have a clue/ideas?

My car does exactly the same thing. Some have guessed it's wastegate flutter. My car has actually pinged 4-5 times, and it is not a subtle, quiet sound at all. With the windows up, and the radio off (or in my case, not there), it will get your attention.

My car has run only 91 octane since I've bought it, usually from the same Texaco station by my house. Temps in Southern Arizona have been between 90 and 105 since I took delivery early last month, with humidity about 50%. The car now has 1500 miles. I kept under 4000 rpm for the first 500 miles, most of which was the drive back from Albuquerque where I bought it. Then I gave myself 500 rpm every 100 miles until 1000 miles. The car build date is 06/03, so it may or may not have been reflashed before I bought it. I have not had it reflashed.

The car has pinged 4-5 times, for a fraction of a second each time, between 3-4krpm, all since the 1000 mile mark. All the pings have been around town, at WOT or close to WOT, usually when flooring the throttle when the car was cruising at 3000 rpm or so. Happens when the car has been running for a long time, and is fully warmed up, but not all the time. It's usually not repeatable, and has happened at surprising times around town, not when I was out on a mountain road driving fast.

DO SOA fix the ping problem after you report the problem to them
or they simply replace all the ECU on the cars at the dealer's lot that's not sold.

Originally posted by labowbowWRX
DO SOA fix the ping problem after you report the problem to them
or they simply replace all the ECU on the cars at the dealer's lot that's not sold.

if you have an older STi and report the problem, they will reflash your car.

cars that were already on the lot when the reflash became available probably were not reflashed, but any new cars delievered in the last couple months should have already been reflashed before they got to the dealers.

Finaly got an answer back from SOA through the service manager. The official word is "customer show drive their car for 5000 mile for computer to learn and adapt to customers driving style and then the detonation problem will go away." I asked for that to be sent to me in writing....
:huh:
So, that's it.
Just quick background on my prob. I got dets after break in, at about 1.1k miles. Then got re-flash and still have dets. Running 91 Ca gas. :(

Originally posted by drdray
Finaly got an answer back from SOA through the service manager. The official word is "customer show drive their car for 5000 mile for computer to learn and adapt to customers driving style and then the detonation problem will go away." I asked for that to be sent to me in writing....
:huh:
So, that's it.
Just quick background on my prob. I got dets after break in, at about 1.1k miles. Then got re-flash and still have dets. Running 91 Ca gas. :(

Drdray, so, does the reflash help reduce the pinging for you at all? It did for mine, even though there is STILL mild pinging, but much rarer now. BTW, let's see if the car learns or SOA learns (motor on the road):devil:

Well, it did at first, but I'm getting a feeling it is getting worse. Or just occasionally. Some times it's worse, some times it's not so bad. I got mixed fillings on the issue right now. It almost went away when it got cool in the mornings, but then the other day it was around 70 and I heard it pretty loud and clear......:huh: So, re-flash does help, but in my case it never completly fixed pings. BTW, I was told that SOA said that this pinging "shouldn't harm the engine at all" and that a quote! So, I'm going to drive it as if nothing is wrong with it, and if my motor does go bad........ I don't even want to think about it. :furious: I'd probably hurt some one if they say it's my fault..literally. :furious:

Originally posted by drdray
I heard it pretty loud and clear......:

Is this with close to WOT? You had the windows up or down? I rely on my knocklink to tell me knocks... After the reflash, I have only seen the 1st and 2nd green lights light up ocassionally (versus the orange and red lights lighting up before) when close to WOTs. If I listen very carefully with the windows up/down, I can hear a very mild and 1/10-sec "brr" and that's it, when the green light(s) light up. I would not worry about it for now:rolleyes:

yes at WOT, windows up. But I can hear it with them down, loud once mainly. usualy between 3.5 to 4.5-5k rpms.

Maybe you guys should try better quality brands of 91 octane, if higher octanes are not available. I know Texaco and Cheveron are junk gas brands for turbo cars. Try Shell, 76, and i heard Mobil Gas. The brands of gas really make a difference in Turbo cars, seriously. They may be the same octane rating, but you can really feel the difference between brands.

Originally posted by STi City
Maybe you guys should try better quality brands of 91 octane, if higher octanes are not available. I know Texaco and Cheveron are junk gas brands for turbo cars. Try Shell, 76, and i heard Mobil Gas. The brands of gas really make a difference in Turbo cars, seriously. They may be the same octane rating, but you can really feel the difference between brands.

I FULLY agree and FULLY DISAGREE at the same time. In limited experience with gas in the Phoenix area and all points between their and Colorado I have found Amoco and Chevron to be the two BEST brands of gas to use with Shell and Mobil1 being the worst. This is from personal experience as well as others experience.

I do agree though that all 91 octanes are not created equal ;). A big portion of the quality of the fuels are what additives get added to them and the additives are different for each station type.

I also use gas stations that have a separate nozzle for premium; because if you have only 1 nozzle, someone before you may have used el cheapo gas and left 1/2 gallon or so of it in the hose... Not a good thing!

FYI: i usually get 15-20 more miles per tank when I fill up with SHell.

hey all...new here

im getting an STi real soon:D

just wanted to know if my STi will have a chance of having this problem???
just wanted to make sure...theyre going to try and give me one from the lot thats been sitting for god knows how long but i want a new one fresh off the truck :)

wolvie, there is so little cheapo gas in the shared nozzel pumps it wont effect your engine.

as for gas quality. We have 93 here on regular stations. 94 octane Texaco,Exxon in 20 min drive-use this on sundays :)

We have:Exxon-Excellent 93; Amoco-Excellent 93; Texaco- good; Hess-Good; Shell-OK; Citgo-OK; Mobile-OK; Chevron-OK....

however, the funny thing is- some locations have better gas. I can "FEEL" my car responding better to my input. from throttle pulses to WOT. 93 octane does help compared to 91. I cant stand anything less. I had 95 Once. :) me and my engine liked it.

Hi,
I have a STi and also a Dodge R/T truck. It had the same ping problem. Dodge released a fix (a flash). We soon learned it pulled back timing and everyone complained about loss of power. It is known as the dreaded "death flash" for 360 engines. We found a colder set of plugs,good plug wires, cap and rotor, and a free flow air box and GOOD gas cured the problem...wonder if same applies here?
Sold a Vette for the STi. never been happier
Cheers

Originally posted by Crash O Matic
Hi,
I have a STi and also a Dodge R/T truck. It had the same ping problem. Dodge released a fix (a flash). We soon learned it pulled back timing and everyone complained about loss of power. It is known as the dreaded "death flash" for 360 engines. We found a colder set of plugs,good plug wires, cap and rotor, and a free flow air box and GOOD gas cured the problem...wonder if same applies here?
Sold a Vette for the STi. never been happier
Cheers

The problems are unrelated, the STi ping was a software problem and had nothing to do with the plugs or physical ignition system.

I keep seeing people asking whether the current selling STis are having this problem.... the answer is NO. Please read the whole thread from the beginning and you'll find data on the changeover date.

Thanks!

Originally posted by Porter
I keep seeing people asking whether the current selling STis are having this problem.... the answer is NO. Please read the whole thread from the beginning and you'll find data on the changeover date.

Thanks!

And I keep seeing people who want simple information that should be easier to find then searching through a 22 page thread sent here.

If the answer can be answered then it would be nice to have it updated at the beginning of the thread or seperately posted and displayed quickly.

I will readily admit not reading all 22 pages, but have not yet seen a build date cutoff or what information should be looked for on the ECU sticker to know if it is the old code or the new code. The recent sales don't matter for those who have bought cars that were on the lot for a long time - build date or ECU sticker information in a readily available place would be easier to point to than 22 pages of information that discuss the history of the problem but not the answer being sought now.

Originally posted by Porter


I keep seeing people asking whether the current selling STis are having this problem.... the answer is NO. Please read the whole thread from the beginning and you'll find data on the changeover date.


Can you be a little more specific then that?
Its not like this a 3 page thread. There are 22 pages of this and not everyone has 4 hours to rummage through it. Evne a rough idea of what page that change over date was listed would be a great help.

I got the reflash recently, and as many others have experienced, while the car does not ping and seems to accelerate smoother, it has lost some of its low end torque according to my a$$ dyno. Before the reflash the low-end torque made lag non-existent, but now the car reminds me of my old WRX requiring me to stay in a lower gear to keep the power up.

Today I had a weird experience where my STi died while driving on the freeway; it felt like it konked out as if one were starting from a stop in third and killed it; but I was in 6th gear and had to slow to merge, when I let off the gas, konk, dead car. I pulled to the shoulder and re-started the car again and I have not had the problem again (this was earilier today). This never happened before the reflash, so i have to pose the question if this has happened to any of you?

All-in-all, the re-flash made the car a better daily driver, but if it wasn't for the hopefully soon to be released 2004 ECU upgrades, I would be pissed because the car doesn't pack the same punch that it did before the reflash.

Yeah I agree-- let's just say I have four hours of time to look through all that garbage and I found no change over date listed for the re-flash in fact let me summ up what everyone has said----BLAH-BLAH-BLAH-BLAH I use this gas BLAH-What if I lose power BLAH-BLAH-BLAH no real information in 22 pages of BLAH--Where's Porter with a new real update??

Originally posted by stingr
Yeah I agree-- let's just say I have four hours of time to look through all that garbage and I found no change over date listed for the re-flash in fact let me summ up what everyone has said----BLAH-BLAH-BLAH-BLAH I use this gas BLAH-What if I lose power BLAH-BLAH-BLAH no real information in 22 pages of BLAH--Where's Porter with a new real update??

I agree.. i read though a lot of it.. it pretty much turned into page after page of the same thing hashed over and over. lot of speculating, lot of complaining, no real information.

EDIT: after reviewing some more, good information seems to start at page 8 (my nasioc is set for 50 posts/page)

of interest, porter posted this:


If there are any STis in the Atlanta area who want the reflash, give me a call at work and we'll set up to do a full set of dyno runs on our 4-wheel Dynapack before and after, and we can even swap in a stock ECM for rechecking. The whole thing will be done in a climate controlled environment, and I'll make sure the numbers are accurate by requiring three-run repeatability at each stage.



I'm wondering if any results came of this.

This should be confirmed, but my understanding from EcuTek is that if your ECU sticker ends with AJ242 it should have the new code. This does not mean if it ends with AJ241 that it doesn't though.

My ECU ID was not found when using DD ver. 1.37 EcuTek was able to tell from my ECU ID that even though my sticker says AJ241 that it has the AJ242 code. (and they sent me the beta 1.38 which includes my ECU ID)

To my previous point - you can not say that current sales are definitely OK. My car was bought in November with a single digit on the odometer - but the ECU is labeled AJ241. It must have got reflashed at some point based on EcuTek's feedback - but the dealer just stared at me blankly when I inquired if it had the new code.

AJ242 should be good to go. AJ241 you would need to have the ECU ID (its hexidecimal or something like that and can be retreived through DD somehow) checked by someone in the know.

This is based solely on my communications with EcuTek - which was the only place I was able to find useful responses.

.

Any one pings? I still ping and got re-flushed ECU.

Originally posted by drdray
Any one pings? I still ping and got re-flushed ECU.

I think a dyno trip would be well worth it in your case. If they have the wideband setup maybe they can see the issue.

anyone know where i can find a dealer that has done this b4 in the boston mass area?

Don't try this at home folks, but in the 7200 miles on the Alcan rally, and for almost half of those miles, my reflashed STi was given a diet of 89, 87 and sometimes stuff just labelled "gasoline", with maybe a bit of octane booster or gas drier thrown in and it only pinged once, lugging up a hill in 6th (I should have down shifted, 3 people in the car, 2 large bags on the back seat and trunk full of stuff).

Oh, and it felt pretty strong the whole time.

We averaged around 21MPG for the entire trip, even at -13F.

Glenn

problem is that is it 70+F here and car pings now at even 65F. in december when weather cooled down to nice 60 and under, car wouldn't ping even if i tried really hard. now at 65+F it pings and the warmer it gets, the more pings. I change oil and keep an eye on coolant. Can runs fine, no heat issues, only thing I noticed is that it pings more weather warms up. CA weather is going to be 90+ pretty soon and I'm will hear all that ping again till next December. I been to dealership multiple times and finaly got a letter from SOA with case number and all, but all it says is that car should run on 93 and not 91. So, I'm guessing that when I come there with an engine problem they will say that I abused the car and didn't run proper gas. I guess it's just my luck.

Is your car reflashed? I had no pinging problems with my car in August temps.

I guess it's just my luck.

I guess it's mine too... I'm from sac as well. But, I've sort of learned how to deal with it. I have KnockLink installed, so it is pretty easy to tell when it starts acting up, like flashing the first yellow light... The key to not having it ping is to accelerate smoothly. What I mean is do not punch the gas WOT at 3k rpm; rather, I will be at like half WOT at 3k rpm, 3/4 WOT at 4k rpm and WOT at 5k rpm, shift at red-line, loose about 1k rpm and land at 6k rpm--no pinging if I drive like this. WOT at 3k rpm will ping 50% of the time for me.

unacceptable.

Originally posted by Glenn Wallace
Is your car reflashed? I had no pinging problems with my car in August temps.

Yes, car is reflashed.

Originally posted by wolverine
I guess it's mine too... I'm from sac as well. But, I've sort of learned how to deal with it. I have KnockLink installed, so it is pretty easy to tell when it starts acting up, like flashing the first yellow light... The key to not having it ping is to accelerate smoothly. What I mean is do not punch the gas WOT at 3k rpm; rather, I will be at like half WOT at 3k rpm, 3/4 WOT at 4k rpm and WOT at 5k rpm, shift at red-line, loose about 1k rpm and land at 6k rpm--no pinging if I drive like this. WOT at 3k rpm will ping 50% of the time for me.

I don't drive that agressive all the time. Rarely I'd do that, but I'd shift at 6500 rpm. I think it's a bit risky to play with red line like that. If it keeps on pinging as it gets warmer, I'll call dealership and talk to the manager again. See what he says. SOA said to drive for 5k miles and ping should go away, well 5k is up. and ping still here. Soon as I get some time, I'll get a hold of SOA and dealership.

I see some people talking about qulaity of gas. My friend is a petroleum engineer and works for haliburton (the largest petroleum company). He has told me again and again that 93 is 93 no matter where you get it from. The only difference is that a non name brand may have had that gas sitting there for much more time and less care may have been placed at keeping quality standards (getting particles from the ground into the gas). As far as avoiding detonation, the guy with the srt is right. If you run colder plugs and keep the intercooler cold, you will less likely have detonation. Will it cure it? I dont know since im still in break in period and havent nailed it to know if I even have it or how bad it is. Turbo xs wrote a whole article on this and they suggest that even installing a turbo back exhaust would cure this problem so for those of you worried about performance, I do beleive that the reflash is avoidable as long as you know what your doing and how deep into det. you are.

Originally posted by drdray
I don't drive that agressive all the time. Rarely I'd do that, but I'd shift at 6500 rpm. I think it's a bit risky to play with red line like that. If it keeps on pinging as it gets warmer, I'll call dealership and talk to the manager again. See what he says. SOA said to drive for 5k miles and ping should go away, well 5k is up. and ping still here. Soon as I get some time, I'll get a hold of SOA and dealership.
The 5k stuff is BS... Mine is at 9k and it would still ping like nuts if I go WOT at 3k rpm. Of course, I don't shift at red-line, unless I am racing... Shift point is set to 4.5k for normal driving. Keep us updated about what SOA handles your case... Thx.

I spoke to my local subaru dealer GURU he said that this is normal on 91 and that it will not harm the engine in any way he also said that when it happens keep your foot on the gas after several trips in the detonation zone the ECU will make the adjustment however you may still have a little detonation you do have the option of getting the reflash but he said you will not be happy the car is noticeably slower. he suggests leaving it alone

This isn't true in my case. My car is totally
stock & I run 93 octane gas, since 94 is no longer availlable. My car is faster & pulls
stronger w/ the reflash than before. YMMV

If any of you are going to your dealer, and getting the re-flash done any time soon, please dyno your car before and after the re-flash, and please please post your results. This way we would all know if the re-flash affects the power of the STI. Thanks!:)

Originally posted by D.D.
If any of you are going to your dealer, and getting the re-flash done any time soon, please dyno your car before and after the re-flash, and please please post your results. This way we would all know if the re-flash affects the power of the STI. Thanks!:)
I wish each of the people who have asked for that over the last 9 months would either do what they are suggesting themselves or at least offer to pay for all this dyno time that others are supposed to be obligated to incur.

Originally posted by turboICE
I wish each of the people who have asked for that over the last 9 months would either do what they are suggesting themselves or at least offer to pay for all this dyno time that others are supposed to be obligated to incur.

You know, not everyone lives in an area where a 4 wheel dyno is avalible to them, also you are not OBLIGATED to do any thing, I don't remember putting a gun to your head.

Originally posted by D.D.
You know, not everyone lives in an area where a 4 wheel dyno is avalible to them, also you are not OBLIGATED to do any thing, I don't remember putting a gun to your head.

But you do live in such an area - http://www.turbochargers.com/

Turbochargers.com
5410 Burr Oak Drive
Houston, Texas 77092

Right off 290 NW of Houston.

That isn't near you? You came up with a great idea - why don't you do it?

I made a comment to the few dozen people who have suggested that other people take their car to a dyno (pay for it), convince their dealer to reflash their ECU (lots of time), go without their car for three days, and then take their car back to the dyno (pay for it again) - and they ask in such a way as if it were no big deal. If you took personal offense to my open response, that was your choice to take offense not mine. Sometimes when you are the 37th person to ask others to do something that you should be willing to do for the community yourself it gets really old.

turboice:
Point taken. But there's something you don't know about turbochargers.com. I went there the 3rd day after I bought my STI, no one in the establisment knew how to set up an STI, the "tech" told me after 30 min. of trying to hook it up to the dyno, that he needed to take my inercooler apart, and rip this out, rip that out etc. At that point I told him to stop, I not interested anymore. He still charged me $50 just to do nothing. Since I could not find another 4 wheel dyno in my area, I gave up the whloe idea of it. FYI you can't pay me enough to go back to Turbochargers.com. Any how so you know there no offense taken.:)

Ouch. That is the suck - clearly they were lost. Glad you walked out and good idea to keep going without looking back - guess Dallas is your closest. Don't remember who but some dyno place decided to go right by the tie down points and tie down to the lateral links - for several during a dyno day - ugly.

Originally posted by D.D.
turboice:
Point taken. But there's something you don't know about turbochargers.com. I went there the 3rd day after I bought my STI, no one in the establisment knew how to set up an STI, the "tech" told me after 30 min. of trying to hook it up to the dyno, that he needed to take my inercooler apart, and rip this out, rip that out etc. At that point I told him to stop, I not interested anymore. He still charged me $50 just to do nothing. Since I could not find another 4 wheel dyno in my area, I gave up the whloe idea of it. FYI you can't pay me enough to go back to Turbochargers.com. Any how so you know there no offense taken.:)

MZM in austin is the closest awd dyno that knows what they are doing.

Just like the So. Ca. residents always wanting to sue

Originally posted by turboICE
And I keep seeing people who want simple information that should be easier to find then searching through a 22 page thread sent here.

If the answer can be answered then it would be nice to have it updated at the beginning of the thread or seperately posted and displayed quickly.

I will readily admit not reading all 22 pages, but have not yet seen a build date cutoff or what information should be looked for on the ECU sticker to know if it is the old code or the new code. The recent sales don't matter for those who have bought cars that were on the lot for a long time - build date or ECU sticker information in a readily available place would be easier to point to than 22 pages of information that discuss the history of the problem but not the answer being sought now.

Wow, that would make too much sense! Glenn have you got some free time. Especially since this thread is stickied.

I have an 04 wrx wagon, and definalty have this problem.

I just took home my '05 STI.

Detonation between 4000-5000 RPMS under load in 3rd gear every time.

I'm pretty pissed.

Same problem... Just got a used 04... didn't notice it at first, but I do now...

I just got a used one also. 9800 mi on it. How can you tell and at what speeds?

Hi everyone!

Ok folks I'm new here, I just read this entire thread as well as a few others so please don't tell me to search the forum as I'm cross eye right now the way it is from all this, LOL... but a few questions:

1. Has the flash now been 100% proven by good dyno or 1/4 miles run tests to cut HP?

2. If this new program does indeed cut HP, does the 2005 STI make 300 HP, or is this flash info also part of the retune for the new model thus lowering HP?

3. Sounds like 2005 have knock issues too????

Also....I'm no newbie to turbo/AWD. I've got a pretty good understanding of turbo motors, timing changes can make big HP differences on these small turbo motors.

I'm looking to get a 2005 STI soon, or the EVO MR IF it's really coming this year.

FWIW:
I personally modded and tested my 1992 AWD Talon in several stages over the span of about 9 years so far, testing each stage at the local track with many runs, best times were:

base stock run when I got it new way back in 1993 was 14.8@89

A few, easy, freebie mods netted a 14.0@94

$400 in simple mods netted 13.5@100, add to that:

Another $1200 netted 12.4@110 - all on the stock 14b turbo, on an unopened 135,000 miles by then motor. (this was my daily driver and still passed Wisconsin emmission testing).

Another $500 for a 16G turbo to replace the way overtaxed stock 14b turbo put me at 11.8@115 and got me kicked off the track due to no roll cage.

Car then was retired to being my toy and track only car, setup to comply with track rules.

Currently after 2 more "stages" it runs easy mid 10's@129 all day without NOS, and it's still reliable too. It's seen over 400 1/4 mile runs with very few parts being broke.

I mainly burn up clutches, I run a weaker clutch than my HP dictates, I'm using an ACT 2600 right now, on my 12-11 sec runs I was only using an ACT 2100.

Anyone that was smart early on with the Talon's realized the clutch is the drivetrain "fuse" so to speak in these cars, too strong and too much HP and the shock load will kill all sorts of drive train parts.


There was talk of the STI running rich. My 2 cents....this is to protect the motor at WOT/full boost, the Talons did that too, a massive fuell dump at WOT/full boost keeps things cool, and yes it kills some power but the boost more than makes up for the overly rich condition HP wise, thus black soot on the tail pipe.

I'm hoping some of my knowledge can be transfered to the STI, as sooner or later if I get one the modding will start. I'm more inclined to the STI than the EVO MR as I just would like something a bit different. I probably should get an EVO though as that's the same 4G63 motor as my Talon has, but I really want another Subbie, I haven't had one for years, I used to have a 4WD wagon many years back and loved that little thing to death!

Sorry for the long post everyone. Looks like a great site you've got here!:cool:

Had mine "reflashed" about 3 months after I got it. Couldn't hear it for a while. Now, almost a year later, pingggg!! It's during WOT in 2nd and 3rd @ 4200rpm, just like before. I have know idea why it would start doing it all of the sudden. I just moved to SC from OK. Could be the gas, but I'm using 93 just like I was in OK. Any ideas? I don't know much about engine management.

Originally posted by Ringboy
Had mine "reflashed" about 3 months after I got it. Couldn't hear it for a while. Now, almost a year later, pingggg!! It's during WOT in 2nd and 3rd @ 4200rpm, just like before. I have know idea why it would start doing it all of the sudden. I just moved to SC from OK. Could be the gas, but I'm using 93 just like I was in OK. Any ideas? I don't know much about engine management.

This is the reason why I am not considering reflashing... I dono why... but I suspect this happening to people...

Personally, I think Im just gonna get AccessPort and get rid of this problem and gain 20whp on the way there too...

One issue that should be considered especially as miles are put on these cars is carbon buildup. The extra rich condition built into the fuel map will certainly cause carbon buildup and resultant detonation. Talons had this problem so bad that Mitsubishi put out a combustion chamber cleaner kit with special solvent to run through the motor on an as needed basis.

If you dog the car a lot expect it to get worse even quicker, you really need to wind out these turbo motors on a regular to keep things clean, babying em is not going to be good for them but rather detrimental IMO.

Very interesting. I have been babying it a lot. I usually don't drive anywhere but to work. It's 30mph the entire way there (I live on an AFB). Any other ideas?

BTW what is AccessPort, just another piggy back

Everyone should take a look at this thread IMO:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=583214

Comments on old vs. reflashed ECM towards the bottom of page 1.

-st

Those this effect 2005 Sti?

Those this effect 2005 Sti?
ya this is my question too and how exactly will i feel detonation? at idle my car shakes and i only have 800 miles, is this a factor ?

FWIW, my '05 STi completely stock was pinging on occasion on CA 91 octane. It was particularly bad after a reset. It would ping all over the place while trying to learn. It concerned me enough that when I had my car tuned, the tuner and I paid particular attention to minor detonation events and tuned them out. May have lost a few HP, but the car never pings and makes consistent HP.

One thing that surprises me is how many '04 STi owners I've met that refuse to take in their cars for the reflash fearing power reduction. This while their cars are pinging like CRAZY on pump gas. If it were me, I'd take the reflash and just put in a 94 mix to assure safe power. But that's just me.