This thread is started with the intention to determine which wires need to be spliced from the recipient bulkhead wiring harness. Hopefully with our combined knowledge, experience, and failures we can come up with something. Here are the pinouts for a 2000 2.5RS.

Links to the previously posted pdf files (http://lersoc.com/viewtopic.php?t=1278)

I hope the few fine install shops on the board don't feel threatened by this thread. I don't want to take business from you and hope you can contribute to this thread, but not everyone has deep pockets to get their swaps done professionally.

Moderators: If you are worried about pages from the service manual being posted in here. Please let me know and we can take them down.

Obviously there are 100's of variables that will make every swap different, so before we start adding info we need to clarify the variables involved such as, which ecu, if all the sensors in the engine bay are being swapped, are the dash plus remaining, things like that.

I'm going to sit on the crapper now and write down some things.

Awesome, now we just need to figure out which wires from the RS harness need to be spliced into the wrx one and what things the RS harness does not have that you manually have to wire, like the boost solenoid and fuel pump controller. and lastly, which wires from the WRX bulkhead harness need to be removed or not wired in.

BUMP - I want this thread on my email list.

How about 99 rs diagrams also.

Anthony C

Well, I will flap my gums and give my 2cents, since it has been ridiculed before :lol:

Generally, this method is what I use once you have separated the engine wiring from the swap dash harness (JDM/Wrx) . Most of what you need to separated does not have to be cut, that is from the ecu to the engine. Some stuff you may have to cut to separate from the dash harness such as the O2 sensor , speed sensor, rad fans, main relay power, ecu back up power , ignition switch, start switch, tacho, cel , water temp gauge, oil pressure gauge...to name a few. What you will find once you do all this, is that you basically have a stand alone engine harness. And most of the wires you have cut , can be spliced into your stock RS harness at the ecu connectors, such as tacho, ecu main power/back-up power, fans , cel , main relay control...etc. Some power wires you will have to tap off the stock main relay. As well you will have to tap into the stock engine connectors for the water temp/ oil pressure and cluster ground.

If you do it this way, you do not have to rip out the stock harness nor take out the dash. If the car ever had to be converted back, all the stock RS connectors are still there to use.

That would probably be the easiest way to do it... And after that, if you wanted to clean it up abit you could remove the wiring little by little.

yes i am going to start doing this swap in a few days once the motor gets here.

If we can try and get this finished before i have to start wiring that would be great.
I will also try to help as much as i possibly can with this.

THanks
Billyqua
rally driven.............

I can help with your 2.5rs 99 wiring needs. I can help you guys if you want to pm me I can give you what wires need to be spliced and where and so on. Just did all my wiring on my 2.5rs to JDM WRX about a month ago still remember it all. I used JDM ECM so I know how everything works US and JDM. I have JDM diagrams as well and manuels. Just let me know what you need or what info and I can help you! Also version 3 you have to remember differences between years of JDM cause you can not use 2.5rs cluster to run speedo and odometer and speed signal to ECM. This is mechanical and you will need a mechanical speedo to send the signal to the ECM or car will go in limp mode and shut off at 4300RPM's. This is on years 95 and below and random years and models from then on. Very good info though version 3.

I will be able to help with the MY00/01 stuff....working on the schematic as we speak...;)

Bill

do you guys plan on usuing factory ECU's?

I'm working on something that will be relativly painless for guys with P&P ECU's like link.... it involves a little bit of machining.. but too painful.

yeah just factory usdm ecus that way the swaps are legal.

All bright yellow wires are abs wires, right?

-Jon

hey puck could you change the images above to links instead.. this thread is way too important to load this slow

-jared

yellowflexloom? or yellow wire

Yellow flex loom, sorry.

I would tend to agree with Jaxx. It is kind of annoying loading all those images every time.

-Jon

Man you guys are picky.:) I put a link above to our local forum where they are hosted.

your kidding right...
be sure to
A plug the battery in
B have some one you don't like sit in the drivers seat
when playing with yellow flex loom (air bag)

or perhaps it is the other way around

Who is playing with the airbags? I'm talking abs lines here. Yellow flex loom, to my understanding, are the abs wires and would therefor be unneeded for my car since it doesn't have abs in the first place.

-Jon

Originally posted by stimpy
Who is playing with the airbags? I'm talking abs lines here. Yellow flex loom, to my understanding, are the abs wires and would therefor be unneeded for my car since it doesn't have abs in the first place.

-Jon

all YELLOW lines are indeed Airbag specific....

Bill

Ok, thank you for clearing that up.

-Jon

I've spent some of the morning pouring over the wiring diagrams and I am noting some issues.

Some connectors are explicitly listed on pages giving some, if not all, of the pins and their associated wires. To find the associated wires, one must just look at the wiring diagram in the immediate area. However, there are others that indicate a given connector but make no mention of the pin orientation or wires passing through. For these connections, one must hunt through ALL of the wire diagram pages searching for either of the connector IDs.

How about a specific example? Connectors i10, i11, and i12 all have almost every pin explicitly defined in the associated combination meter wiring diagrams. Some pins must be sought by looking at the ground diagrams; but, it is largely complete. Pin i59 has everything defined right in the clock wiring diagrams. However, connectors i1 and i2 don't have more than 1 pin defined in any portion of the diagrams. You must search through all diagrams and find all references to i1 and i2 (or the corresponding b36 and b37) to decrypt the wires in use.

Am I overlooking something or is that just how the manuals are laid out?

-Jon

why are you wiring in the clock? don't you just need to find all the engine related wires and separate them?

*This is for a MY03 wiring harness

If you look at the WRX wiring diagrams, you will note that connectors i10, i11, and i12 pertain to the gauge cluster (relevant to my swap), i59 goes to the in-dash clock (used just as an example), and i1 and i2 go to the bulkhead wiring harness (which is relevant for all).

-Jon

Will the 03 instrument harness plug into the 00 bulkhead harness? I doubt it but........If the plugs match you would just need to rearrange some pinouts on the 00 harness.

I don't have 03 diagrams so I'm in the dark what the layout is, but the 00 instrument panel harness has two plugs for the cluster, two for the bulkhead harness and a plug for the hazards and rear defrost. So your question is what are the pinouts for plugs i1 &i2 which go to the bulkhead harness on the 03 harness? You should just be able to follow the wires from the other end of the instrument panel harness plugs to find out what they are, the colors shouldn't change.

People are misinterpreting my post.

I am not asking how to wire up the clock, I can figure that out on my own as that is the most straightforward of all the diagrams I have looked at thus far. I am not asking if I can just bolt in my MY03 cluster harness into my car because I don't have a MY00 anything (I have a MY96) and because I know it won't match up since I am converting from a mechanical gauge cluster to a digital one.

The purpose of my post was to get an understanding of the organization of the wiring diagrams, not for specific help on specific wires. In looking at some of the diagrams, regardless of WHAT we are trying to wire up, some of the pin outs are not included in the initial diagram, but elsewhere in other diagrams. This is what I am trying to verify. Also, I would like to know if there is some logical procedure for finding the pinouts for a certain plug aside from doing a search for all references of a plug name; ie: i1 or b36 or any others for that matter.

For the record, I AM putting the WRX clock in my car because mine doesn't have one in the dash like the newer Imprezas. I apologize for the confusion in the thread but I'm asking for help in only understanding all the documentation I have. Please try to disregard the specific information in my examples and read it as help in understanding the wiring. There is a very high probability that I may be the only one in a specific situation and so I am trying to avoid asking specific questions that nobody could really answer.

Just a little FYI, the MY03 cluster harness has 7 plugs total, 3 green ones going to the cluster itself, one white one going to the clock in the dash, one white one going to the hazard light switch, one white one going to part of the bulkhead wiring harness, and one brown one going to part of the bulkhead wiring harness. So, no, it won't plug into the MY00 bulkhead wiring harness.

I can post links to a couple shots of diagrams showing my dilemma if anybody would like.

-Jon

I'm sorry I missed the detail of your question. Let me follow something in the my00 diagram and see if it helps.

If you follow the ignition coil back from the the coil itself. E12 is the plug that plugs into the coil, then if you follow the 4 wires back to E3 which is the plug from the engine harness that plugs into the bulkhead harness, plug B22, it has the pinouts for B22 - 4,5,6,&14, then from there one wire goes to the previous page, follow E, the other three wires go to the ECU. It gives the plug numbers and pinouts there; plug B134 pinot25,27, & 26.
http://lersoc.com/download.php?id=740
They don't give the pinouts for E3 because the colors don't change so you just need to follow the wires.

If you already know everything I just explained then I'm sorry I couldn't help. I don't know your level of knowledge so I'm trying to keep it simple as possible so please don't take it as I'm to label you as a simpleton.

That is the sort of thing I was looking for. ;)

So they don't necessarily give pins for non-terminating plugs? Is that how I am understanding that?

For instance, if we want to find out what pin 1 is on connector E12 (assuming we don't know anything about E12), then we follow the blue wire (L = blue) up to pin 5 on connector B22, then follow the yellow wire (YL = yellow) up to pin 25 on connector B134 (I think, it's hard to read that pic). On B134, if I am not mistaken, we are then told all the pinouts. Yup, pin 25 on B134 is "Ignition control", #1, #2 as per the pinouts for the ECU plugs. Now with that information, we know that pin 1 for E12 goes to the ECU which, in turn, fires the coil. If we had a pin layout of connector E3, then we would also know that the corresponding pin for it would be the one that matches up to pin 1 on E12 and pin 5 on B22. Then we could say that pin xx for E3 is the "Ignition control".

More or less, we have to reverse engineer the wire harnesses rather than have the pinouts for ever single connector listed.

Thanks,
-Jon

i don't mean to sound dumb....but can't you just take the ecu pinouts and mark off the wires you need and then do the same on the car and find out which ones need to be spliced. then whatever your MY96 doesn't have you just add.

Depending on what model Subaru, most of the cluster wiring is in jiberish whether it is done purposely or not. I found that some of the labelling of the cluster on diagrams do not necessary correspond to the actual plug pin-out. Aside from that, the engine diagrams are straight forward.

my question is...if you had for ex:ralli spec do all your wiring harness needs,will it pretty much be like a plug and play ordeal or will there have to be more splicing...oh and i plan to go with the ej20T.:confused:

I have heard no mention that Rallispec, or anybody for that matter, will build a completely plug and play wiring solution for factory engine management. There are some that will provide solutions for aftermarket engine management, though. Rallispec typically wires the car while it is in their posession.

-Jon

i'm sure you can send them a wrx wiring harness, they'll take out the unnecessary wires, add the ones the RS doesn't have and tell you which wires to splice into the RS harness. this really isn't that difficult of a task in concept, but i think unless you've done it before it is a rather tedious task.

What are people doing about the fuse and relay boxes? I'm trying to decide if I want to use the WRX boxes or use my L boxes. I think that switching the boxes is a serious headache waiting to happen.

-Jon

Rich (Ver. III) is not around, but i'll answer that question because i already asked him; there's no need to switch fuse boxes.

I haven't compared the fuseboxes to know what one has and the other doesn't, but hypothetically, if we come across a wire that goes to the fusebox, but doesn't have a spot in the existing box, I would assume we try to locate a blank spot? Splice into an existing fuse? I don't have experience with this yet, I'm just throwing stuff around.

-Jon

i really think that would be easier than switching fuseboxes like I-Speed does, thats why their swaps take so long.

For powering the ecu / engine , you just use the existing main relay and fuel pump relay. So there is no need to swap fuse boxes.

That saves a lot of hassle in doing that. I would gladly eliminate all that extra stuff in there and use what I have.

-Jon

So the word is about 30 wires to splice from the RS harness into the WRX engine harness to get the car running. Correct?

like 20, plus some you need to add soem things the RS doesn't have.

does anyone know the exact wires that need splicing? I'm not looking for the exact pin-out just the fucntion of the wire itself. It might be easier that way with all the different harnesses out there.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=345873

-Jon