We will be selling the water injection kit in this group buy for 10 people.

The kit will be $275 + $15 shipping, if you need the pressure switch because you don't have a UTEC or way to control the solenoid it is an extra $25.


Please post here and send a deposit of 50% to sale@WRTuner.com through PayPal or call 1-866-WRTuner to pay by phone.

All kits will ship after this group buy, and all payments have been recieved.

Group buy will run 2 weeks. or until we have at least 10 people we will extend the amount if we have a large enough call for the kit but not to exeed 20 kits.

Talk to you all soon,
Nick & Jeff

Here is the official group buy list. Simply post here if you would like to be on the list.

1. Bolster - Paid Deposit
2. Porkchop-WRX - Paid Deposit
3. WRX_Aaron - Paid Deposit
4. annointed - Paid Deposit
5. Dan2.5rs - Paid Deposit
6. JDM 3SGTE - Paid Deposit
7.
8.
9.
10.

If you have any questions you can check out www.wrxtuner.com If your question isn't answered there, feel free to post it here and i'll get back to you asap.

Here are some links to a few writeups done so far on our kit.

RiftsWRX install part 1 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=413223)

RiftsWRX Install part 2 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=414556)

Jeff

why is the shipping more than what's posted on the website? is it expressed shipped then?

I'm definitely interested in the GB though. (just need to read a lil more research)

The shipping is for 3 day express fedex shipping. If you were to pay 350 retail at www.wrxtuner.com then you would get a small discount on shipping. This $15 guarantees 3 day shipping, from the day that the group buy closes. I hope this clears everything up.

Jeff

I just sent in my deposit.

pm'd you navyblue

Dan

Originally posted by Bolster
I just sent in my deposit.

Did you paypal it?

I didn't see it, just wondering if it was a mail in payment or Paypal.

Talk to you soon,
Nick

I was going to send deposit now through paypal, but it says that sale@wrtuner.com is not yet registered with paypal. Can you confirm your paypal addy?

Thanks,
Aaron

Originally posted by WRXTuner


Did you paypal it?

I didn't see it, just wondering if it was a mail in payment or Paypal.

Talk to you soon,
Nick

I paypaled it to sale@WRTuner.com (copied the link above). I bet it needs to go to sale@WRXTuner.com.

Originally posted by Bolster


I paypaled it to sale@WRTuner.com (copied the link above). I bet it needs to go to sale@WRXTuner.com.


HEHE yeah that would be a bit better ;)

Nick

It is sale@WRXTuner.com, also sales@WRXTuner.com works. I just set up sale because of the recent viruses going around.

Paypal sent.

Paypal Sent!

It's been recieved!

Nick

Couple of questions:

Any safety issues?

Whould I be able to run lower octane gas (87,89, 91) without any knocking issues? Gas prices these days suck!!! :furious:

Originally posted by WR_eXe
Couple of questions:

Any safety issues?

Whould I be able to run lower octane gas (87,89, 91) without any knocking issues? Gas prices these days suck!!! :furious:

I could say yes to the lower octane question, however you would need to tune the car or at least have some sort of monitor to know what is going on. I don't want to just say yes since that is not the simple answer ;)

As far as safety issues any time you mod your car there are safety issues, this system will help you get the most out of your car performance wise, however you can do damage if you run out of water, or for some reason the system stops running. Always take care to make sure everything is functioning properly and you will be fine.


Nick

www.WRXTuner.com

Originally posted by WR_eXe
Couple of questions:

Any safety issues?

Whould I be able to run lower octane gas (87,89, 91) without any knocking issues? Gas prices these days suck!!! :furious:

It all depends on your state of tune. The water/methanol raises the effective octane rating, i dont know how much though. I'll just use 10 as a number. So if you are running 93octane, then it will be like running 103. If you're running 89 octane, it will be like running 99. My guess would be that running WI with 87 octane would still show better results than running 93octane, and cost much less too!!

Jeff

Deposit sent. :D

Originally posted by Porkchop-WRX
Deposit sent. :D

Did you send it to Sale@WRXTuner.com with paypal?

If so I don't see it :)

Nick

We need some more folks. This is a good deal!

Originally posted by 2MANYCARS
Nice kit, got anything I can use to inject H2O2 into the engine? :D

I can't see why you wouldn't be able to use this kit to inject Hydrogen peroxide with this kit.

Here is an interesting read albeit a bit technical. H2O2 and other chemicals (http://19thicders.matsuo.mech.keio.ac.jp/proceedings/abstracts/a/ando.pdf)

Some more notes I found on the web for everyone :)

"Hot rodders and the military have both been using water/alcohol injection for decades. Water adds thermal efficiency, and helps cool the intake air, while alcohol raises the octane level, and also helps cool the intake. My suggestion is to use cheap 3% hydrogen peroxide (97% water), and mix it with cheap 91% isopropyl alcohol, and spray it as a fine mist into the intake. As the oxygen came out of the peroxide, it would help burn the alcohol, resulting in higher horsepower. Detonation wouldn't be a problem, because the water and alcohol have a strong anti-detonation effect. The basic idea is cheap performance."

"The reason for hydrogen peroxide is this: alcohol both directly and indirectly raises the engine's ability to utilize oxygen(and increases the octane rating), by suppressing the tendency to "knock," or detonate. Because hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen when compressed and/or heated, it makes a good delivery system to get more oxygen into the cylinders. Simply put, higher octane + more oxygen + knock suppression = advanced ignition timing + more power & efficiency."

"Hydrogen peroxide or H2O2 in vapor form has about half the oxygen of atmospheric O2. So that means peroxide has 2.5 times the oxygen molecule for molecule as air does (20% oxygen). So its just like injecting liquid air."

I like liquid air! :lol:

Nick

www.WRXTuner.com

This is an awesome discovery..i didnt know much about this until now. Expect to see some testing from me in the future, like tomorrow! Here are some comparisons of Nitrous and Hydrogen Peroxide.


Field Nitrous Peroxide

Atomic Config. N20 H2O2
Atomic Weight 44 34


It looks to me like the peroxide gives off more oxygen per molecule that decomposes, and each molecule weighs less too, taking up less space as well. Please anybody correct me if im wrong. It would appear as though peroxide is a more lucrative power adder than Nitrous....strange and unbelievable but thats what it looks like, at least on paper. I'll have to experiment today and tomorrow and i'll tell ya what happens.

Jeff

i sent it to sale@wrtuner.com how do i get it back?

Edit I cancelled it and re-sent it to the correct address.

I got it, however I need you to please send it with your confirmed address ;)

Nick

www.WRXTuner.com

Ok re-sent again. This time with a confirmed address. :D

what happens if we dont get 10 people?
Could I just send you the other 50% and have it shipped out monday?

Going to the dyno at some point in the next week so would like to have this installed and see how it does!

Thanks,
Aaron

Originally posted by WRX_Aaron
what happens if we dont get 10 people?

I am sure we will as people see the results of the few that have already been sent ;)

Also if we don't get 10 people we will work something out I think will be fair.

Nick

Hey I paid my deposit. Can you please update that on your post Navy blue.:)

I'm in, I'll send the $$$ now.

Mark
alloutforjesus@hotmail.com

ok its done!

Giv eme a week or so and I'll be in.

Bump

getting my paycheck later today. i am in. expect my payment later this evening.

Excellent lets keep the people coming. Slowly but surely. The faster we get 10 people the faster we get our kits :devil:

just sent you my deposit for $145.00. lets get four more so i can get my kit!!

ttt

Originally posted by Porkchop-WRX
ttt

Bump

Jeff finished the install on an SRT4 today and the car showed no loss in power but close to a 300 degree drop in EGT's.

Next step is to up the boost a bit and see how it performs. Now all we need to do is get some engine managment on it and see what it can really do ;)

Nick

Will this work on my 1999 RS-T with LinkPlus?

Originally posted by GimmeScoobysnacks


Will this work on my 1999 RS-T with LinkPlus?



It will work on any car actaully N/A or FI (forced induction for the noobs :), you will get better results out of a car you have the ability to advance the timing and decrease the fuel in.

This is as if you were running race gas without the cost :)

Even if your linkplus can't run a solenoid you can still get the pressure switch.

Nick

oopss :)

ttt

ttt

Don't close this GB without me!!! I'm in when my check clears which hopefully is by tuesday.

Originally posted by Javier
Don't close this GB without me!!! I'm in when my check clears which hopefully is by tuesday.
We still need 3 more people to get 10, right?

We will be closing the auction next Friday and may even have some more options for you at that time ;)

We are working on getting the water level switches to add to the kits the add on will be between $50 and $60 so you don't have to worry about not knowing if you are low on fluid ;)

Talk to you soon and we will keep you posted on how it goes as soon as we get the level sensors in.


Nick

Nick,
Great idea on the water level switch. We were already thinking of adding that when we get our kit! :-)

Cheers! John

I am interested in this, but I already got a Stage 1 ECU from Vishnu. I am wondering whether I will need a whole new map or whether the WI will kick in automatically at the top end of the rev. range. You need a different leaner fuel map to gain extra power from this device don't you? Also, can you get better fuel mileage as well as more power (and probably lower emissions)? I'm thinking (after reading the threads in the first post) that WI will only help if the ECU (or UTEC etc) is specifically tuned for it. Is that right?

A couple questions:
What model sureflow pump is included?
Are there options for different sized nozzles?
How is the nozzle supposed to be mounted?
Where is the pump mounted?
Is a check valve included?


Thanks
-- Ed

Your PM box if full...:D

We still waiting for more people or you want us to start sending you the other half already to get these things shipping

Nick, I got the WI kit today in the mail, thanks!. Only problem I have with it though is the lack of instructions as to what to do with the parts in the box! I spoke to Jeff a few weeks ago about instructions, and he said that he would e-mail me some, but nothing has shown up thus far.

Would it be possible to get instructions e-mailed to me? My e-mail addy is femi_akinyele@sympatico.ca

Thanks
Femi
("The Canadian Guy"):lol:

Does the price remain the same even without 10 people on the list? :crossing fingers:

I'm very interested in purchasing this WI kit. I have a few questions first though:

How does the pump mount in? What do people use for a reservoir and where do you get it (if it isn't the window washer fluid reservoir)? What batteries do people use? How do you secure it?
Are there step by step instructions with pictures for the end to end install on a wrx?

Sorry if this is a repeated question; I just want to know everything that is involved before making a decision and I'm not that great at fabricating things (mostly due to laziness).

Thank you,
Masuo

First answer

Yes the group buy is over :) Please send the final payments. I will extend it till friday for anyone that asks and makes the full payment by then.

Second answer

Yes we will keep the price the same :)

Third answer

Femi we will get you those instructions this week sorry bout that ;)

Fourth answers

How does the pump mount in? You can mount the pump where ever you wish under the hood prefferably near the washer tank as it is the best source of washer fluid :) My question is why would you not want to use the 1 gallon resivior you have already under the hood?

What batteries do people use? The pump is a 12v pump and should be used with the factory battery.

How do you secure it? Not to be silly but, screws.

Are there step by step instructions with pictures for the end to end install on a wrx? Yes there will be step by step instructions available online as well as with the kits, we are working on those now.

Well I hope this helps if you can't PM me just send an e-mail to Nick@WRXTuner.com or Jeff@SRT4Tuner.com and one of us will get back to you ASAP :)

Nick

Originally posted by Vaus
A couple questions:


What model sureflow pump is included? I will tell you the specs since we now provide the pump as our name brand J&N Performance. It is an 80 GPH 100 PSI pump and has a built in check valve to maintain pressure at all times when the system is on.

Are there options for different sized nozzles? Yes you can get different sized nozzles for additional cost and a small delay for ordering included is a 5GPH nozzle.

How is the nozzle supposed to be mounted? For best results drill a hole in the front of the intercooler just in front of the butterfly orings are provided to seal the nozzle in place.

Where is the pump mounted? Where ever you would like :)

Is a check valve included? It's built in to the pump :)

I hope this helps.

Nick

sent you the rest of my payment. 3 day shipping correct? will i get a tracking number ?

Just sent the rest of my payment in too.

Yes tracking #'s will be provided :) they will ship FedEx and will ship by Tuesday :)

Nick

Nick,
Could you send me some install directions too??
Thanks
Aaron

To add the water level switch to any kit it would be an extra $35 with this group buy :) after fiday the kit's normal price with the switch included will be $399 without it it will be $350.

Let me know if you would like to add it to your kits :)

Nick

How hard is it to hook up the leveler switch. Also are the instructions up online anywhere?

I would like to go over them a couple times while i'm waiting for them...so when I get it I can install it right away:devil:

So there is no suggested mounting location for the pump? Is there any way to mount it under the hood w/o having to move things around? How much are the extra nozzles and what type of nozzles are they?

Thanks
-- Ed

Originally posted by Porkchop-WRX
How hard is it to hook up the leveler switch. Also are the instructions up online anywhere?

I would like to go over them a couple times while i'm waiting for them...so when I get it I can install it right away:devil:

The switch is a pressure type which all you need to do is attach the included piece of hose and lower it into the fluid resivoir by drilling a hole the size of the hose and plug it into the included switch with the water injection kit :)

Nick

One more thing... Your kit relys only on the pump to regulate system pressure. Considering the pump has the on-demand switch, won't the line pressure constantly be wavering between the turn-on/turn-off pressures? That doesn't seem ideal. I'd suggest a by-pass type system to keep pressure constant.

-- Ed

Originally posted by WRX_Aaron
Could you send me some install directions too??

Nick, could you answer my questions please? Also, could you send me install instructions. Thanks.

How can I take advantage of WI without UTEC? Do I need to get new map for my ECU (like ECUTEK)? Without supporting ECU maps is it worth getting WI? I like idea of lowering temparatures and less fuel consumption if it make s sense with WI.

Regards,
Ret

Originally posted by thoughto
I am interested in this, but I already got a Stage 1 ECU from Vishnu. I am wondering whether I will need a whole new map or whether the WI will kick in automatically at the top end of the rev. range. You need a different leaner fuel map to gain extra power from this device don't you? Also, can you get better fuel mileage as well as more power (and probably lower emissions)? I'm thinking (after reading the threads in the first post) that WI will only help if the ECU (or UTEC etc) is specifically tuned for it. Is that right?

Well the water injection will lower your cylinder temps, without the ability to increase your timing and reduce the amount of fuel you will not get a gain except for a lower EGT and the ability to raise your boost a little without the danger of knock. We are working with GP Moto which can also program your uni chip and they are going to be developing maps for the water injection kits as well. Also the newest version of the uni chip will be able to operate the solenoids without the need of a pressure switch.

Nick

Originally posted by retslo
How can I take advantage of WI without UTEC? Do I need to get new map for my ECU (like ECUTEK)? Without supporting ECU maps is it worth getting WI? I like idea of lowering temparatures and less fuel consumption if it make s sense with WI.

Regards,
Ret


One thing we would like to beleive is that the factory ECU being as smart as they say it is would realize that it doesn't need as much fuel when introducing the water injection. If you were to reset the computer and only run the water injection it in theory would be able to re-adjust to the new mixture of fluids and reduce the amount of fuel that it uses.

This is just a theory and we are going to be testing it in the near future.

Nick

I guess my questions aren't important? :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Vaus
I guess my questions aren't important? :rolleyes:

Just hold your horses, I'm sure they'll answer you.

Originally posted by Vaus
So there is no suggested mounting location for the pump? Is there any way to mount it under the hood w/o having to move things around? How much are the extra nozzles and what type of nozzles are they?

Thanks
-- Ed

Mount it where can, if you have a cold air you can mount it on the passenger side fender or if you want to relocate your battery you can mount it there or if you you like you can mount it on the firewall above your turbo as long as you have the heat shield still on the turbo.

Your other statment is not relivant as the pump is designed to keep the the pressure at a constant and if your system is leak free as it should be, you will have no issues.

I hope this helps,
Nick

Originally posted by WRXTuner

Your other statment is not relivant as the pump is designed to keep the the pressure at a constant and if your system is leak free as it should be, you will have no issues.

I hope this helps,
Nick

Nick,
Thanks for the info but I still have a problem with this statement. How do you figure that the pump is designed to keep constant pressure?

From your info, I gather that you're using the Shurflo 8000-543-238 100psi pump. This pump has an internal pressure switch and an internal check valve to prevent backflow but no internal bypapass to maintain pressure. The shut-off switch is adjustable from 80-100psi set to 100psi from factory. The turn-on switch is non-adjustable and is set to 85psi +/- 5psi. So as you can see, the pump will be cycling on/off during operation and causing pressure to waver between the turn-on/turn-off values.

There are other models of shurflo pumps that include an internal bypass to maintain constant pressure but those are not high pressure pumps.

All of this info was taken from the Shurflo data sheet and so far I don't see anything that will allow the pump to maintain constant pressure on its own. If you have other info on this, please enlighten me.

Thanks
-- Ed

As we have been using the pump we supply with the kit for 4+ Months now, I can say from personal experience if the pressure in the system drops the pump comes on to re-pressurize the system. I will personally guarantee this.

Nick

Originally posted by WRXTuner
As we have been using the pump we supply with the kit for 4+ Months now, I can say from personal experience if the pressure in the system drops the pump comes on to re-pressurize the system. I will personally guarantee this.

Nick

Nick,
I understand that if the pressure drops, the pump will turn on. That's the function of the on-demand pressure switch that the pump has. The problem is that while you're injecting, pressure will drop bellow the turn-on pressure, the pump will turn on, the pressure will quickly rise above the turn-off pressure, the pump will turn off, and the cycle will continue. This will result in a cyclicle system pressure (cycling from the turn-on point to the turn-off point). This is obviously not an ideal condition and can be worked around to provide nice steady pressure.

Thanks
-- Ed

Originally posted by Vaus


Nick,
I understand that if the pressure drops, the pump will turn on. That's the function of the on-demand pressure switch that the pump has. The problem is that while you're injecting, pressure will drop bellow the turn-on pressure, the pump will turn on, the pressure will quickly rise above the turn-off pressure, the pump will turn off, and the cycle will continue. This will result in a cyclicle system pressure (cycling from the turn-on point to the turn-off point). This is obviously not an ideal condition and can be worked around to provide nice steady pressure.

Thanks
-- Ed

Ed, perhaps what you dont realize is that the pump doesnt shut off until the pressure exceeds around 105psi. So how do you figure that the pressure is jumping from 85 to 100? It doesnt....the line is pressurized around 105psi by the time it shuts off. Then the solenoid opens when conditions are met, and the fluid goes through the nozzle, and when the pressure drops below around 85psi then the pump turns back on(all happens in like 1/20 of a second)And the pump attempts to regulate at around 95-100psi. Not until the solenoid closes does the pressure shoot up back over 105psi, causing the pump to shut off. There is no "cycling" that i know of and there is really no way there ever could be, seeing as the turn-on and turn-off points are so far apart. My pump comes on, and stays on without and problems. The same for a local guy in jacksonville. His egt gauge reports egt's of 1200 at WOT, and they do not fluctuate, they are locked there. No pump cycling whatsoever.

Jeff

Originally posted by NavyBlueSubaru


Ed, perhaps what you dont realize is that the pump doesnt shut off until the pressure exceeds around 105psi. So how do you figure that the pressure is jumping from 85 to 100? It doesnt....the line is pressurized around 105psi by the time it shuts off. Then the solenoid opens when conditions are met, and the fluid goes through the nozzle, and when the pressure drops below around 85psi then the pump turns back on(all happens in like 1/20 of a second)And the pump attempts to regulate at around 95-100psi. Not until the solenoid closes does the pressure shoot up back over 105psi, causing the pump to shut off. There is no "cycling" that i know of and there is really no way there ever could be, seeing as the turn-on and turn-off points are so far apart. My pump comes on, and stays on without and problems. The same for a local guy in jacksonville. His egt gauge reports egt's of 1200 at WOT, and they do not fluctuate, they are locked there. No pump cycling whatsoever.

Jeff

Jeff,
I took my numbers from Shurflo's datasheet for this pump. I can believe that the turn-off point is closer to 105psi (especially considering calibration differences between pressure gauges). That still doesn't change the fact that the pump has no other way of "regulating" pressure around 95-100psi. The only thing the pump can do is turn itself on/off at set points (unless Shurflo left something out of their datasheet -- unlikely). So, looking at this and giving you the benifit of the doubt, pressure will still quickly fluctuate between 90-100psi. This pump is rated at 57.6GPH at 100psi. If the system was flowing somewhere around that rate, then I'd believe that pressure would stay fairly constant. The fact is, however, that you're only flowing 5GPH which could be sustained at much higher pressure by this pump if it didn't have the built in on/off switch.

1200 degree EGT's are quite low and means that he can likely pull some fuel safely and gain some power. EGT's however are not a good indicator of weather the pressure is fluctuating. The fluctuation is fast and most EGT gauges are relatively slow. Have you hooked up a pressure gauge to the water line to actually make sure what's going on?

Thanks
-- Ed

Vaus, it sounds like you need to buy yourself an aquamist 2d and spend an EXTRA $500. If i wasn't broke i would get WRXTuner's kit though.

Originally posted by GimmeScoobySnacks
Vaus, it sounds like you need to buy yourself an aquamist 2d and spend an EXTRA $500. If i wasn't broke i would get WRXTuner's kit though.

It would cost about $10 to make this kit run steady pressure so I'm not quite sure where you're comming from. I'm not a fan of aquamist and think all their stuff is way overpriced.

-- Ed

This system is activaed based on what? MAP? RPM? TPS? IDC's? Combination of?

The system is activated with either the utec or an optional pressure switch that is adjustable from 7-14psi. I hope that helps!

Jeff

Originally posted by NavyBlueSubaru
The system is activated with either the utec or an optional pressure switch that is adjustable from 7-14psi. I hope that helps!

Jeff

Also when setting the UTEC you can have two variables over XRPM and over X Boost with the pressure switch you have one.

Nick

Hey Nick, payment made.

BTW, I listed my office address. If you could please send it there it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I have to send to the confirmed address with paypal sorry bout that :(

Nick

P.S. check your e-mails you should be getting tracking #'s from fedex :)

Wait. I can list that addy with them. DOH!

*Man I am brain dead this morning. The addy I gave you was wrong for my office anyways, LOL.

As long as I've got tracking #'s I can try to be around. Thx Nick.

Brain Dead

Originally posted by WRXTuner
P.S. check your e-mails you should be getting tracking #'s from fedex :)


? Did these ship out and I missed it? Please call me or email me at alloutforjesus@hotmail.com and let me know what's going on. I was just speaking to my local AWD dyno today telling them I'm still waiting on my WI kit before I reserve dyno time.

Thanks,

Mark

Nick you should be recieving my payment shortly. I included a additional 35 for the leveler switch. I sent 150 the first time so i will send the 140+35 for the switch.

One more thing, I bet that with a constant 100psi, people could run a smaller nozzle with better results. Since flow increases with the square root of pressure, your system is flowing 8.5% more water at 100psi than it is at 85psi. So If your nozzle flows 5GPH at 100psi, it will only be flowing about 4.6GPH at 85psi. Also take into consideration that higher pressure creates a finer mist and effectively takes more heat out of the charge.

Thanks
-- Ed

Originally posted by WRXTuner

Fourth answers

How does the pump mount in? You can mount the pump where ever you wish under the hood prefferably near the washer tank as it is the best source of washer fluid :) My question is why would you not want to use the 1 gallon resivior you have already under the hood?



How as in where under the hood? Do you have to make a braket? What have people done that have worked well? Your answer has no information; why do you think I asked the question?


What batteries do people use? The pump is a 12v pump and should be used with the factory battery.


Don't people have to either relocate their stock battery or purchase a smaller one if the pump takes up realestate?


How do you secure it? Not to be silly but, screws.


Your answer was silly; It sounds like you didn't bother to think about where I (a potential customer) was coming from. I strongly suggest you alter your attitude and think before you post non-answers to people who put food on your table.

Masuo

Let me make it clear that my statements are in no way trying to hurt your reputation or bussiness but this seems like a fairly serious oversite on the engineer's part and so far you have been unable to provide any data to disprove my claims and yet seem to be ignoring my posts. I don't like to see people spending their money on undeveloped products and then have the maker deny the issue with no technical data to back them up. Please either provide some actual data or admit the issue with the kit.

Thanks
-- Ed

On the contrary, You have been unable to provide any evidence to prove your claim, so I see no reason to acknowledge them any furthur. Secondly, I have not been "ignoring" your claims, I mearly have a life outside of NASIOC and are not living by my computer. I will not "admit an issue" with the kit, because the truth is that there isnt one. Anyone can make some backless claim, but they shouldn't expect me to go rush out and waste my time proving them wrong. I've already attached the pump to a nozzle and activated it, and it came on just as expected, and stayed on, until the power was removed. No cycling of anykind. I hope that is good enough "proof" for you.

Jeff

Originally posted by dorao


How as in where under the hood? Do you have to make a braket? What have people done that have worked well? Your answer has no information; why do you think I asked the question?

Don't people have to either relocate their stock battery or purchase a smaller one if the pump takes up realestate?

Your answer was silly; It sounds like you didn't bother to think about where I (a potential customer) was coming from. I strongly suggest you alter your attitude and think before you post non-answers to people who put food on your table.

Masuo

I should let these guys defend themselves, but this ^ is going a bit overboard. If you've ever modified a car with stuff other than bolt-ons, then you might be familiar with the concept of fabrication. What we're being provided with here is a pump and the hardware to run it. After that, it's your own responsibility to find a place to mount it, depending on your needs/wants/preferences. Aquamist makes kits that also require the user to find a place to mount them.

So when they say they secure the pump with screws, that's it- you find a spot you want to mount the pump in and screw it in or fab up a bracket. This requires thinking on YOUR part.

What you do with your battery (or not) depends on how much room you have under the hood, which also depends on the mods the car has. If you have a short-ram or CAI, then you can probably mount the pump on the passenger frame rail where the airbox used to reside. If not, then you can put the pump in the trunk and run lines (as I've seen on some setups), or you can relocate the battery/buy a smaller one.

I hope this helps- I'm trying my darndest not to come across as sarcastic or condescending. I don't think they were giving you any "attitude" - you just misread what they were telling you.

I have to agree with Bolster. I've been chuckling reading this thread.

How many aftermarket parts have I added to my car that don't spell out where and how I need to mount something?! This list is long...

I'll be mounting my pump where it makes sense to do so, by whatever means necessary. If anyone wants to see pics/writeup, I'll be doing one once I get my kit.

Cheers! John

Those are my thoughts as well...if you are willing to put a W.I. system on your car, then you should have some sort of skills in fabricating a location for it. It will fit onfront of the battery, but i have my battery in the trunk and the pump mounted to the fenderwell area, near the main fuse box.

Jeff

Originally posted by dorao


How as in where under the hood? Do you have to make a braket? What have people done that have worked well? Your answer has no information; why do you think I asked the question?



Don't people have to either relocate their stock battery or purchase a smaller one if the pump takes up realestate?



Your answer was silly; It sounds like you didn't bother to think about where I (a potential customer) was coming from. I strongly suggest you alter your attitude and think before you post non-answers to people who put food on your table.

Masuo

My answers were just as you asked, The pump can get 12V from any 12v source as you only need to use 16-18 gauge wire to supply power. The wiring harnes that is included with the swith is setup to supply power to the pump and solenoind. As to where you would mount the pump, I can only say that where ever you can make room would be a good idea and as close to the water resivoir is also best. We have relocated the batter to the trunk in some cases, and we have installed it on the fender well on the passenger side in cars that have a cold air or short ram intake.

I hope these are more to your liking and if you would like to talk more in depth about the setup I would be happy to answer any questions on me, 1-866-WRXTuner

Nick

The new harnesses that are going out with every kit leave you with three wires to connect Power from the switch, Ground to the pump, and ground from the solenoid to the UTEC.

Very simple install :)

Nick

Instructions (http://www.wrxtuner.com/instructions.doc)

Nick have any of these shippe out yet. I sent the other half of my payment along with some extra to cover the level switch and I did not recieve a tracking # yet.
Thanks
~Danny

Originally posted by Bolster


I should let these guys defend themselves, but this ^ is going a bit overboard. If you've ever modified a car with stuff other than bolt-ons, then you might be familiar with the concept of fabrication. What we're being provided with here is a pump and the hardware to run it. After that, it's your own responsibility to find a place to mount it, depending on your needs/wants/preferences. Aquamist makes kits that also require the user to find a place to mount them.

So when they say they secure the pump with screws, that's it- you find a spot you want to mount the pump in and screw it in or fab up a bracket. This requires thinking on YOUR part.

What you do with your battery (or not) depends on how much room you have under the hood, which also depends on the mods the car has. If you have a short-ram or CAI, then you can probably mount the pump on the passenger frame rail where the airbox used to reside. If not, then you can put the pump in the trunk and run lines (as I've seen on some setups), or you can relocate the battery/buy a smaller one.

I hope this helps- I'm trying my darndest not to come across as sarcastic or condescending. I don't think they were giving you any "attitude" - you just misread what they were telling you.

I appreciate your professional and articulate response. When I initially posted, I saw no point in reinventing the wheel. If fabrication was required, merely stating it respectfully and prehaps pointing out a few ways that installations have been know to work would have sufficed. I have no issue with problem solving if I have to. I just believe it is more efficient to draw on the knowledge and experiences of others.

Prehaps I over reacted; I apologize if I did, but what I tolerate from a peer is not the same as from a vendor. As a customer, I expect a vendor to act in a professional manner.

Masuo

Originally posted by NavyBlueSubaru
On the contrary, You have been unable to provide any evidence to prove your claim, so I see no reason to acknowledge them any furthur. Secondly, I have not been "ignoring" your claims, I mearly have a life outside of NASIOC and are not living by my computer. I will not "admit an issue" with the kit, because the truth is that there isnt one. Anyone can make some backless claim, but they shouldn't expect me to go rush out and waste my time proving them wrong. I've already attached the pump to a nozzle and activated it, and it came on just as expected, and stayed on, until the power was removed. No cycling of anykind. I hope that is good enough "proof" for you.

Jeff

How do you figure that my claim has no evidence? The datasheet provided by the pump manufacturer clearly states the pump's features and none of them include regulating the pressure. When you attatched the nozzle to the pump and turned it on, obviously the water will spray constantly but the pump is still cycling on/off to prevent over-pressurizing the line and damage to the pump. Looking at the water comming out and saying that means that the pressure is constant is nonsense. Hook up a pressure gauge and tell me what you think then.

-- Ed

This doesn't need to get out of hand here.

The kit works as specified with the amount of test that we have performed. I see no need to re-invent the kit here, the pump will keep the line pressurized when the system is not engaged, when the system drops in pressure the pump will come on and stay on until the demand is no longer needed.

We have not seen any fluctuation in pump performance using the nozzle we are using, as far as pressure goes we are using a 5GPH MAX nozzle @100 PSI so as you say that at 85PSI it will flow 4.6 GPH which is perfectly fine, this is why you tune the car.

However I have to think that with the efficiency of the nozzle we are using that the system stays closer to 100PSI then you might think. Most of what we have seen is when you move the solenoid further away from the nozzle you do loose more pressure and don't get as fine a mist. So keep in mind that the closer the solenoid is to the nozzle the better the performance.

Remember even when you tune your car without water injection you need to adjust for different temps, altitudes, and fuels, so this is no different then any of those you may need to adjust things as you go that is just the nature of tuning.

I don't want anymore arguments it is not needed. Hell I offered to pay for the phone call if you have concerns, pick up the phone and let me answer them directly as typed thoughts don't always come across the way they should.

I forgot to answer other questions :)

We upgraded the swicth with the kits and they just came in the first 3 people that paid have been shipped I will have more out tomorrow :)

Nick

P.S. I am waiting on the water level switches as we had only ordered 2 for testing and they should be here early next week and I will have those out as well :)

Nick

did the switches come in yet. If so has mine shipped out already
thanks
~Danny

I should have them ready to go out well today now :)

Nick

got my kit today. Looks pretty good. The install looks suprisingly easy - the drilling needed. I do have some questions. What size drill bit are we suppose to use. A size is not provided on mine I got #### as a size. Also I need someone to steer me in the right direction on how to install the water leveler switch.

Give me a call and I will explain the water level switch I put a note in there for you to call :)

Nick

Nick I didn't see a note i there. But anyways I did call and leave a message. I'll call back tomorrow again.