Hey guys I was just had a few ultra-n00b-basic questions about the UTEC. IIRC the ECU is in the passenger footwell under the molded carpet right? And there's a map selector switch on the UTEC itself according to TXS's site/pictures. So to switch maps (or to load new maps for that matter) you would have to pull up the carpet to get at it right?

I've only done physical mods to the car and have never dabbled in computer tuning so I want to learn as much as possible before making the plunge. Is there a site/FAQ regarding all the basics? Off the top of my head I have questions regarding wide Band O2 sensors and wot other gauges I'll need other then EGT. Oh also, I've done searches and have seen people mention something about 60% throttle. Wot's the deal w/ that? Is the UTEC not optimized for part throttle?

Thanks,
Conrad

For the updated UTEC Quick Tune Guide click here (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1221413)

The above is the basics of tuning your UTEC.

To load maps you don't have to take up the carpet, just leave the serial cable accessable.

To swap between maps you will need the TurboXS remote map selector switch which is an additional item.

To load firmware you will have to lift the carpet. New Firmware releases come out about every 6-9 months.

Currently the UTEC only takes control of the fueling and timing over 60% TPS. The Boost can be controlled by the UTEC at any TPS position. The reason that the UTEC waits until 60% TPS is that before this the ECU is running closed loop fuel control. You car will run better with the ECU running this section.

Great, thanks for the reply Mick! That certainly cleared up the 60% question I had.
I'll have to register on WRX Hackers when I get home. It wouldn't let me access that portion of the site.
I'll definitely take a look into the remote map selector switch.

Thanks again,
Conrad

You can also download the manual on the TXS website.

Originally posted by Mildmanneredman
You can also download the manual on the TXS website.

Just printed it out. Time to study! :banana:

The TurboXS UTEC manual is not the same as the Quick Tune Guide. Read the official UTEC manual first then use the Quick Tune Guide to fill in some of the gaps.

Originally posted by mick_the_ginge
The TurboXS UTEC manual is not the same as the Quick Tune Guide. Read the official UTEC manual first then use the Quick Tune Guide to fill in some of the gaps.

Yah, I've printed out the TXS manual and will study that. I've also downloaded your guide and will go over that as well.
Thanks again guys!

Don't mean to bring an old thread back from the grave but I feel it's silly to start a new one regarding the same topic.

I seem to be having trouble connecting to the UTEC. I've followed TXS's instructions as per the guide and I get nothing on my HyperTerminal window. I've checked and switched COM ports and made sure I was getting a red light on the UTEC. Granted it isn't in the vehicle but I just wanted to load the stage 1 map before the install. That is wot the 9V adaptor is for right? Am I missing something?

Thanks again guys.
Conrad

Connect the UTEC power to a car battery and then see if it works. Maybe the 9volter is not quite enough to power it.

Mick

Originally posted by mick_the_ginge
Connect the UTEC power to a car battery and then see if it works. Maybe the 9volter is not quite enough to power it.

Mick

Well the 9V is brand new so I'm kinda worried. Hopefully I'm doing something wrong in regards to a HyperTerminal Setting. I mean I get a red light on the UTEC and I have all the settings like the manual shows but when I click connect nothing happens. I may take it to GRD this week and see wot Tuan has to say about it.
Anything else I should look out for?

Thanks again,
Conrad

Have you tried pressing <CR> enter a couple of times. Mine always comes up blank, I press enter a couple of times and it's there.

Mick

Originally posted by mick_the_ginge
Have you tried pressing <CR> enter a couple of times. Mine always comes up blank, I press enter a couple of times and it's there.

Mick

I will definitely try that tomorrow after work. Right now I'm far too tired to start messing with it again. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow!

:banana:

I have to hit enter once before it comes up. Also, if you have another software program running in the background that uses a serial port, you have to disable the program. Such as HotSync for palm.

Aaron

Originally posted by Aaron'sWRX
I have to hit enter once before it comes up. Also, if you have another software program running in the background that uses a serial port, you have to disable the program. Such as HotSync for palm.

Aaron

At the moment I don't have anything even connected to any of my serial ports for the computer in question. I hope it is just a matter of hitting enter. That would take a load off my mind!

Thank you thank you Mick & Aaron! I pressed enter and it came right up! I've also successfully loaded a map (stage 1) I downloaded from TXS and as soon as I get my remote map selector switch it's going in the car!

You guys rock! :banana:

While I'm here, IIRC the base Stage 1 map is for a stock car so wot changes will I need to make for an uppipe? Uppipe/stealthback? Does TXS have a map for those mods? I only see a map for the TBE (Stage 2).

I hit the ESC key after I click connect and the screen pops up.

Tim

Originally posted by Aaron'sWRX
I have to hit enter once before it comes up. Also, if you have another software program running in the background that uses a serial port, you have to disable the program. Such as HotSync for palm.

Aaron

Yepper. I used to have to disable the hotsync while my laptop was in the docking station. Now I switched to a USB serial port emulator. Although, sometimes I have to open hyperterminal twice to ensure that it connects.

Originally posted by SloRice
I hit the ESC key after I click connect and the screen pops up.

Tim

Ditto.

I've found a Stage 1 + uppipe map on WRX Hackers but of course there is a "use at your own risk" disclaimer which doesn't set well with me. Would TXS be able to supply one for me if I give them a ring or is the only way through dyno tuning? Is there another TXS page with more maps somewhere on their site?

No, there is not a master page of TXS maps other than the base maps.

However, you can figure this out yourself. Try comparing the stage 2 w/uppipe on WRX Hackers (tuned by Nathan at TXS) to the stage 2 w/out uppipe (from TXS website). The same differences will apply to the addition of an uppipe to a base stage 1 map.

What you should see that fuel is added about 500 rpm sooner, and the boost is also adjusted as necessary to hit the target psi sooner.

Be careful pulling maps off wrxhackers if you aren't going to scrutinize them carefully, and compare them to base maps to determine exactly what the changes are. The "use at own risk" disclaimer is there for a reason. :)

Wow, thanks for the info! Just another quick one if I may. I've noticed the maps are in text documents so this leads me to believe I can open up the files in a text editor and view them side by side, is this correct? If not how would I go about comparing the maps?

Also, do you guys think I should hold off completely untill I have EGT and wideband 02 guages before any tuning is started. I'm sure it's the smart thing to do. Any other recommendations on guages/things to monitor? I already have the boost gauge.

Thanks again.

http://www.clegg.us/utec/UTECMapCompare.asp

Be careful if you choose to use Notepad or something similar. I'm not computer savvy enough, but I have had problems when I've tried to edit my maps with it. Something about a checksum error.

I'd strongly urge you to wait until you had the tuning tools before you tuned. You have 2 pretty important ones in the boost gauge and the UTEC's knock detection, but the WB is crucial.

There is a very nice UTEC map editor tool available from WRX hackers. I open two versions of it at once, place the windows on top of each other, and then ALT-TAB between the two to compare.

The other nice feature on the map editor is that it always gives the proper checksum, and highlights any changes that you make (until you save-file).

Thanks for the link to the map comparison tool - I'll check it out!

Okay, I'm real slow (hey it's been busy!) at getting my parts on and I had another couple basic questions.

A) Is the UTEC remote map selector switch lit?

B) When installing the ABC how do I set it? All the way counter-clockwise and adjust accordingly?

I have some time off work this week so I'm going to give it a go!

Thanks again for all your help. :banana:

A) No.
B) Screw in all the way, back out two turns, go for a run, adjust, run, adjust ect...

Originally posted by cdvma
A) No.
B) Screw in all the way, back out two turns, go for a run, adjust, run, adjust ect...

I was thinking along the same lines as far as the ABC is concerned. Now when you say "all the way" do you mean counter-clockwise? I was going to give it a go that way this weekend that way, unless otherwise it should be turned all the way clockwise!

Originally posted by Desolate One
I was thinking along the same lines as far as the ABC is concerned. Now when you say "all the way" do you mean counter-clockwise? I was going to give it a go that way this weekend that way, unless otherwise it should be turned all the way clockwise!

I'm sorry guys, I should have looked at the thing! There's an arrow on it w/ a + and - sign.

Well the UTEC is in and I'm running the base stage 1 map. I haven't been able to take her out and give it full throttle to adjust the ABC, but I do notice that boost builds much faster! The few short times I've been able to give it WOT I've noticed my boost gauge only goes up to .05-.07 Mpa. I've adjusted the ABC 4 full turns up and .07 Mpa is the highest I've gotten. Is there any way to check the accuracy of my boost gauge?

Thanks again for all the help.

Originally posted by Desolate One
I'm sorry guys, I should have looked at the thing! There's an arrow on it w/ a + and - sign.

Well the UTEC is in and I'm running the base stage 1 map. I haven't been able to take her out and give it full throttle to adjust the ABC, but I do notice that boost builds much faster! The few short times I've been able to give it WOT I've noticed my boost gauge only goes up to .05-.07 Mpa. I've adjusted the ABC 4 full turns up and .07 Mpa is the highest I've gotten. Is there any way to check the accuracy of my boost gauge?

Thanks again for all the help.


Can you turn it up anymore? Usually you need to crank it several turns before it will start to make more boost than stock. All the sudden it will get to a point where it starts to increase boost.

You do not have your 3/16" resistor in your boost control line. It says right in the directions for the UTEC, you must have it or you wont boost past 7psi. Even shows a diagram on were it should be installed.

SGOSWRX- After some time boost did get up there. Had to bring it back down though (to about 2 turns).

fatray- Indeed, I removed the 3/16" resistor as per the instructions. Everything ran fine until one day it wouldn't start. Well it would start but would die right away as if I wasn't holding compression. I removed the UTEC (thus my inactivity on this forum, sorry) and has since been fine. I'm planning on finishing up my physical mods then have the UTEC tuned by a pro.

Thanks for the concern and interest. I'll let you guys know how it all pans out.

is utec reliable?

if you use it wisley and correctly

Sorry if this has been brought up before but I would like to know what the best thing is to do if you do mods that include bigger turbo, bigger fuel pump, rails and basically anything that alters the a/f ratio. Are there maps out there for the UTEC (STI) that you could just load up or is professional tuning essential in this case?
Thanx.

Sorry if this has been brought up before but I would like to know what the best thing is to do if you do mods that include bigger turbo, bigger fuel pump, rails and basically anything that alters the a/f ratio. Are there maps out there for the UTEC (STI) that you could just load up or is professional tuning essential in this case?
Thanx.

No base maps for those mods. The best (read: reliable) way of handling this scenario would be a professional tune.

Got a UTEC n00b ?. I just got my map selector switch. It says it is plug and play, however there are two wires coming off the switch. Do I need to put these to a fuse or are these accesorry wires for a launch control unit, etc? Can I just plug it up and into my blank without having to ground the wires? Thanks for helping a n00b!
D

Those are Launch Control wires you need to hook up to your clutch. Let me follow the link below and read the directions and I will let you know for sure.

Read The Directions LINK (http://www.turboxs.com/_images/UTEC/Updatewrx/UTEC%20User%20Manual%204.2.pdf)

UTEC Quick Tune Guide (http://www.wrxhackers.com/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=viewdownloaddetails&lid=60&ttitle=UTEC_Quick_Tune_Guide)

The above is the basics of tuning your UTEC.

To load maps you don't have to take up the carpet, just leave the serial cable accessable.

To swap between maps you will need the TurboXS remote map selector switch which is an additional item.

To load firmware you will have to lift the carpet. New Firmware releases come out about every 6-9 months.

Currently the UTEC only takes control of the fueling and timing over 60% TPS. The Boost can be controlled by the UTEC at any TPS position. The reason that the UTEC waits until 60% TPS is that before this the ECU is running closed loop fuel control. You car will run better with the ECU running this section.

i keep trying to get into this.. i can log into the forums but cant log into the downloads... anyone have it? can you send it to jayblizzo@aol.com? or can anyone tell me how to get to it thanks

I had a little spare time so I updated the UTEC Quick Tune Guide.

Minor updates and some additional information on open loop fueling.

Slides only
http://www.pdxtuning.com/utec_tune_guide/UTEC_Quick_Guide_12_02_2004.pdf

Slides and Mick's notes pages
http://www.pdxtuning.com/utec_tune_guide/UTEC_Quick_Guide_12_02_2004-notes.pdf

Thanks to PDXTuning for hosting the updated Quick Tune Guide

i cant get any of these dl... :confused:

Well they are their... they are in PDF format, you will need the free Acrobat PDF reader.

proposed addendum:

If you don't have a laptop, or easy access to one, don't buy a Utec. :mad:

just wanna thank mick for writing the utec tuning guide....it's a godsend.

Well they are their... they are in PDF format, you will need the free Acrobat PDF reader.

and how do i do that... :confused:

you smack your computer until a team of elves scurries out behind your computer, and types www.adobe.com into your web browser... they will then click on the free-acrobat-reader...

right click link, then select "Save Link Target As..." and this will download the pdf.

I just installed a turbo back (and a CEL fix), K&N intake, and utec turbo XS. First I had the CEL & flashing cruise light problem, and the hazard lights stopped flashing when I arm and disarm the car. The CEL fix worked for the criuse light, but the hazard lights still dont flash. Any ideas?

I have a problem guys my utec starts up and log ok and everything but when I go to download a map from lets say turboxs it tells me error map corrupt. I dont know why ive tried different maps and still nothing I dont know whats going on can anyone help.

Make sure you are using "Send Text File" and not "Send File" in Hyperterminal.

Otherwise try another computer, preferably one with a serial port.

regards
Pete
(TurboXS)

I am using "Send Text file" in the hyperterminal. I will try another comp with a serial port as soon as possible. Could the utec have a problem? I bought it used and am kinda worried. The utec seems to be ok just the part about not being able to load a map.

With all of this talk I think I'm just going to drive up to FIS and have them install and tune it on the dyno.....hopefully it won't take more than a run or two (dyno time is expensive).

Just a quick question. I just bought a utec from turboxs and i put base stage map 2 on the order form because that is what i am at. can i just install it and go?

I just installed a turbo back (and a CEL fix), K&N intake, and utec turbo XS. First I had the CEL & flashing cruise light problem, and the hazard lights stopped flashing when I arm and disarm the car. The CEL fix worked for the criuse light, but the hazard lights still dont flash. Any ideas?

Your car is in "valet mode". Here's what you do-

Unlock the car with the key fob.
Open drivers door.
Hold down unlock button on keyfob. (five seconds I think)

That should put the alarm back into normal mode.

So the UTEC is not tuned LIVE...???

I cant get the utec to pull up in hyperterminal. Driving me freakin crazy. I've hit every button on my keyboard and still nothing happens. I am using a home pc with 9V batt. I just want to download the base stage 2 map.

black05. The reason it fails and says corrupt is after you hit ctrl + U ,you need to hit enter again then send text file. You are sending when the utec is not ready.


oops old post.

lilsix
make sure after you set up your initial hyperterminal connection you configure the port. On my computer when I first made a new hyperterminal connection I could only change the speed and turn off flow control. After the terminal pops up I had to hit properties and change it to vt100. Everything worked after that.

bump...

I cant get the utec to pull up in hyperterminal. Driving me freakin crazy. I've hit every button on my keyboard and still nothing happens. I am using a home pc with 9V batt. I just want to download the base stage 2 map.

Configure your port settings to those in the Utec manual.

Does anyone have some good maps for an 2005 sti.

Heres what I have on my car.

Invidia turbo back race exhaust
Invidia up pipe
sti utec
k&n intake

and thats about it. I would like a map that would make about 500 horse with the things listed.... JOKING!!

Anyway Anyone have a decent map. I searched the forum and didnt find what I was looking for.

Thanks, this is my first post so be gentle.+

Problem Solved..thx

I just got the UTEC remote map switch. I plugged it into the UTEC, turned on the car, and went into my Dashboard. Turn the tiny utec red switch, and it cycles through the maps. ok, then I pushed the buttons on the remote switch to try and cycle through the maps. The dashboard shows no change in the maps. Should it say what map it is on when I click the remote buttons? I tried it with the UTEC on position 0. Ideas? Anything more has to be done besides plugging the switch in? I got this from another person, so I don't have any instructions for it.

Thanks

edit : I am not using launch control, so I guess the software doesnt matter, according to the manual for the UTEC.

I also cant save maps to it from my PC. I tried to use UTECedit and re save. could it be hypterterminal settings?

how do u pull logs from the utec onto a laptop?

First you will probably need a serial to usb converter...

Then run logger 1 (Shift, 1), and select transfer ->capture text and select a folder to save it to...when you are done, go to transfer-> capture text -> stop.

All this info is in the manual btw.

how do u pull logs from the utec onto a laptop?

Also you need to have the laptop in the car at the time of the logging. The UTEC wont save a log.

anyone have a current link to the map comparison tool referred to on the first page of this thread? that one is D-E-D. i can't find the sucker anywhere...

the links don't seem to work, and TXS doesn't seem to have the manual online anymore.. any updates to this?

the manual is online- i think it's under software upgrades...

I recently have had problems with connecting to my UTEC. I checked my connections, reread the manual, rechecked everything in the car, tried hitting various keys and still no start screen. I'm thinking when I removed some programs off my labtop that it deleted files that I need from hyperterminal. Has anyone else had this problem? Can anyone help me out? :confused:

Try connecting utec to laptop then starting car with hyperterminal running. Then press the x key, just make sure the hyperterminal window is highlighted when pressing x. If that dosn't work try turning off car and starting again. Works for me.

sometimes my screen doesn't come right up- try pressing E (edit maps) and see if that works...

Press enter or ESC if the screen is blank when you link up.

So I've read the Manual about 24 times and been through the forums.

My problem: Uploading maps onto the UTEC. Yes, I am doing transfer -> send text file, pressing enter before i do it and all that. As I try to upload, it'll stop at about 10% and say Checksum Error File Corrupt. I have Version 4.2c

Any other ideas other than the ones already posted on this thread?

Not that this will help your problem, but you may as well upgrade to the new version 5.0

ok i have a couple questions here. i just bought a utec off my friend and i tried to install it today. everything went in really easy and i was able to hook it up start my car and drive normally because the map select switch was at 0 meaing stock mode. now he has an 02 and i have an 05 and i was told that it doesnt matter because stock mode is stock mode. is this true? also after i ran my car for a littler bit drove around and parked then returned to leave again my car was acting dumb and was sputtering pretty bad. i was thinking that it was a case of a bad ground cause i didnt think that the ground was too great anyways. anyone else have this problem before?

You need a revision 6b or higher for an 05 WRX...if you don't have that, then you need to sell it and get the correct one. The revision number is on the green board under the cover near the switches. Another way to tell is if you have only two toggle switches on the board and not 7...

So I've read the Manual about 24 times and been through the forums.

My problem: Uploading maps onto the UTEC. Yes, I am doing transfer -> send text file, pressing enter before i do it and all that. As I try to upload, it'll stop at about 10% and say Checksum Error File Corrupt. I have Version 4.2c

Any other ideas other than the ones already posted on this thread?

Your transfer speeds from your computer to the Utec may be too high. Are you using a USB to serial adapter? If so you may have to go in your program manager and double click on that connection and move the slider bar to the slowest speed.

My question is will the UTEC give me any better gas mileage? If it does cool and I can use it as an excuse to tell the wifey I am getting it. :p

-I have a 04' STi, with a TB exhaust, intake, and BOV.

My question is will the UTEC give me any better gas mileage? If it does cool and I can use it as an excuse to tell the wifey I am getting it. :p

-I have a 04' STi, with a TB exhaust, intake, and BOV.

Well the UTEC is supposed to give you more HP. If you get more HP you will get less MPG. That energy has to come from somewhere, that somewhere is gas.

disconcur... depending on what map you use, alot of the maps use a more efficient a/f ratio... the cars run pig rich from the factory. i think that will save you some gas mlg. :)

OMG, even years later, this thread ROCKS:banana:. WRX Hackers & Nasioc have TONS of info. Lemme get to reading... :)

So I've read the Manual about 24 times and been through the forums.

My problem: Uploading maps onto the UTEC. Yes, I am doing transfer -> send text file, pressing enter before i do it and all that. As I try to upload, it'll stop at about 10% and say Checksum Error File Corrupt. I have Version 4.2c

Any other ideas other than the ones already posted on this thread?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=872292

wrong topic.

If you get more HP you will get less MPG. That energy has to come from somewhere, that somewhere is gas.

I need to disagree.

If you keep the weight of the car the same but increase the power of it then the car will have an easier time getting to and keeping speed. I know this because over time I have increased my power while reducing weight and the MPG went up each time I did more inprovements on the ITR (WRX is still stock).

There is a point where you can have too much power and it will decrease the MPG such as a 600+ whp setup in just about anything. ;) But for reality sakes... any of the current day cars most stock or midly modded, we are not going past that point. So increasing MPG while gaining power power is common.

Of Course this is providng the tune of the complete car is on point.

Well the UTEC is supposed to give you more HP. If you get more HP you will get less MPG. That energy has to come from somewhere, that somewhere is gas.

You wanna bet on that? WHile that is usually true, its very often not.

I got 50+ more miles out of a tank of gas at 309whp stage 4 than I did at stock/stage1/2/3, and I know a LOT of stage 4 wrx guys that got better gas milage at stage 4 than they did stock.

My STI also picked up 20+ miles per tank when I went from stock to stage2. And another 20 miles when I added the alcohol injection.


It is entirely possible to make a motor more efficient, and gain power while not losing mpg..

So I've read the Manual about 24 times and been through the forums.

My problem: Uploading maps onto the UTEC. Yes, I am doing transfer -> send text file, pressing enter before i do it and all that. As I try to upload, it'll stop at about 10% and say Checksum Error File Corrupt. I have Version 4.2c

Any other ideas other than the ones already posted on this thread?

You saved the maps in word or notepad or something. Or someone did. That will cause that specific error every time.

A UTEC should have little to no effect on gas mileage when cruising around town, since the UTEC won't be controlling anything.

Gas consumption while beating on your car is pretty irrelevent, IMHO, but in general your power output is going to be closely tied to gas consumption.

The rest is anecdotal and poorly acquired data.

this is a real simple question, but i have the Rev6b utec and i installed it today with the abc. my maps were pre loaded into my utec so i didnt use the laptop to do anything for the install today. my abc is open 3 turns and im hitting 16ish psi by my boost gauge reading. anyway, does the red light in the middle of the utec come on all the time or only when the serial cable is hooked up with a laptop?

i believe that is on all the time, however, mine is always under my floorboard so i can't really remember? free bump for others to see :)

The red LED is on whenever power is applied to the UTEC. Note that turning off the key does not immediately turn off the power to the ECU and the UTEC.

regards
Pete

n00b question: I bought a used UTEC recently. How do I figure out what software rev is currently loaded? I assume I need to hook it up to a computer? I was hoping for a visual clue.

might be easier to get the number off it and contact turbo xs to find out...

If it's used then the only way to know is to hook it up to a computer and run Hyperterminal, it will show up on the dashboard screen. TurboXS won't keep a record of who's upgraded the firmware ;)

Thanks :)

^^^ good point

<--- in the slow group today :)

One more n00b question: How do I check what hardware revision the UTEC is?

i thought that one was printed right on the back of the unit????

i thought that one was printed right on the back of the unit????

Found it under a removable cover. :o

sweet ;)

ANother Newb question:

Just had an offer to purchase a UTEC ver 2. What is version 2? How many versions are there? and which versions do people prefer?

subscribes

Have a look at this thread;

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626740

regards
Pete

so you cant just plug and play the UTEC like an Accessport? Does it use the same port under the dash?

nope. utec is a 'piggyback', which literally means that it sits atop the stock ecu, and plugs in to that.

The UTEC is not a standard piggyback. I'd call it a hybrid. It takes complete control of fueling, timing, and boost control when you stomp on it. But it certainly is not a standalone as it can't control idle and really shouldn't be used for cruise. It doesn't determine fuel pump duty cycle and a bunch of other smaller functions of the standard ECU either.

It is FAR more than what you typically call a piggyback, like an SAFC. Calling it a simple piggyback is not really fair.

Physical install is irrelevent for calling something a piggyback or not. I would never use the location as a justification for categorizing the capability of a unit.

wow. everyone has their own opinions, but iirc, in the faq's on here, there are several main categories. plug and play, piggyback, and standalone.

sounds like the guy has some research to do either waybased on his question he's got a little ways to go.

*edit* found it. good read if you are still deciding which way to go.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=795608

I don't care what the FAQ says, I can think for myself. The UTEC should not be categorized with the almost utter crap that is the SAFC, Mafterburner, SMT-6, etc.

The UTEC with OLF directly controls timing, fueling, and boost control once it has "taken over".

"Piggyback" is generally for units that intercept the MAF or MAP signal between the sensor and ECU and alter it according to the tuning tables in the piggyback device to (veinly) to control fueling. Some also intercept and alter the crank signal for timing control. Both are really dumb ideas since the factory ECU has active feedback loops for both fuel and timing control. Often what you just tuned will get tuned right back out after driving around for a while. At best you can only try to tweak the high load areas, where you are guessing the factory ECU is already in open loop (you can never be sure since OL on the factory ECU is based on many more things than just TPS or MAP), so the feedback loops in the ECU are turned off and your tune won't get "tuned back out" by the factory ECU. The UTEC has never done this for timing and hasn't done this for fueling since OLF was introduced.

It's a disservice to throw the UTEC in a category with devices that are pretty much complete jokes and have little place in a tuned car. This is also discounting features like spare solenoid control, FFS, two-step LC, shift lights, etc.

I just cringe every time someone calls the UTEC a "piggyback". Kinda sorta, maybe, but it should not be categorized with what is normally called a piggyback.

Fair enough. You might not care what the FAQ says, but someone just starting out might. Note the title: 'UTEC Basics'.

piggyback, piggyback, piggyback

Just causing trouble.

As "Freon" says, the UTEC is not a piggyback. Shame about that quote in the FAQ thread but the UTEC does not fit into any of those areas.

Yeah, honestly I think it would be best if someone 'just starting out' would not be told it is a piggyback. It's giving piggybacks way too much credit and cutting the UTEC short. I find myself calling it a hybrid, but could care less, as long as it isn't called a piggyback (or standalone for that matter, which is also misleading).

Hey whatever blows your dress up! Talk to Unabomber ;)

o5 sti "stage 2" w/ meth and utec. do i need to upload new software for the utec. what exactly do i need to do?

I'm sorry, I just recently took an interest in the launch controller (EVO's don't need to do anything for this function to work by the way) do I need to to by something for this function to work, or is it something with the remote you plug up to have it work?

I've tried searches too, so don't insult me by putting me on blast if you know a link then thanks. Hate that about forums :furious:

everything on launch controllers doesn't work on explaining what I read in the utec manual.

everything on launch controllers doesn't work on explaining what I read in the utec manual.

Since you read the UTEC manual (try re-reading Apendix E - Launch Control), then you have already answered some of your own questions.
do I need to to by something for this function to work, or is it something with the remote you plug up to have it work?
Two questions with the same answer: Yes
Yes you do have to get (by, or buy) the UTEC Remote Switch with clutch switch flying lead, and yes you do have to wire it to the clutch switch to make it work. If you already have the remote switch with the flying lead, then no, you do not have toto by/buy it.

Once you have wired the UTEC Switch flying lead wires into the clutch switch (replacing the cruise control wiring), then you can change the parameters under User Constants for rev limit and limit control type.

Now you can plant your foot on the gas and not hit the stock rev limiter. Now you can let the clutch out while the engine is singing at the RPM that you select (should be the point of highest torque for your setup, dynos are good to find this point) and if your valvetrain/bearings/internals/clutch/transmission/driveshafts hold up, you will have better luck "launching" your car.

Don't forget to read the warnings about how you can damage your car, check your spelling, and grammar.

And oh yeah, nice way to wait 365 days exactly to resurrect the post.

If you already have the remote switch with the flying lead, then no, you do not have toto by/buy it.

hmmm, toto? look how easy it is to make a grammer error zaxrex :D

Don't forget to read the warnings about how you can damage your car, check your spelling, and grammar.

And oh yeah, nice way to wait 365 days exactly to resurrect the post.

Well I knew better then to start a new thread here, cause guys can't wait to prove how much smarter they are then you or a smart remark to make you feel stupid cause you have a question. :furious:

I mean I have the remote, but the fly lead has the "extra" wires coming off of it? I did read the instruction but it was a little confusing. It just looks like you unplug the cruise and plug the remote if you have the right equipment? Is it really that simple? :confused:

When you unplug the cruise control clutch switch you will see two contacts. On the lead side(not the switch), you need to put a jumper across those contacts, or close the circuit by crossing the yellow-green and yellow-red wires together that feed into the plug.
Now, on the switch side, you have to attach the flying leads from the map selector switch to the leads from the switch. There is no plugging in, you have to do some wiring, or grab the same molex connector from a trashed Subaru - wire it - and then plug it in.

Hey Shift, I was poking you with sticks, but they were pretty blunt. You used "to to" and I was making fun of you by saying toto. Laugh all you want, I did.

Hey Shift, I was poking you with sticks, but they were pretty blunt. You used "to to" and I was making fun of you by saying toto. Laugh all you want, I did.

Don't worry, I laugh all the time, even if no one else is!:D

Well my wife is leaving me behind for a family reunion this weekend as it's my turn to work the weekend at the old Job Sat. I'll just have to carry my happy old self under there and try to see what is what.

I'd def have to do some wiring though, CAP and Circle near me never have any thing for me but I can find anyone else stuff for their car... isn't that the way it works. :rolleyes:

Well thanks, I may be back so have some more zinggers ready! :lol:

Anyone know where I can find the UTEC Manual online anymore? I cannot find it on their site!

Uh, never mind.. I googled it.. it is on their site, just not easy to see..


It's on TurboXS's website.

STi:

http://www.turboxs.com/downloads/sti_utec_v2_3b.zip

WRX:

http://www.turboxs.com/downloads/wrx_utec_v5_8b.zip

WRX Delta:

http://www.turboxs.com/downloads/DELTA_v23b.zip
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Hi guys, seeing as I am a new member and I have not made any replys yet I was wondering if any of you guys would be able to offer me help. I wish I could make a thread about this but unfortunately I havent posted enough replies. I own an 07 WRX TR with A TurboXS Delta UTEC and an Invidia DP and UP. The other day I plugged the serial cable into the UTEC, then to my labtop and started the program. The hyperterminal screen came up and the program started. All of a sudden the Screen started spazzing out and the hyperterminal program froze. Now I dont understand why I cannot go any further than the home screen, but I have taken all electro static discharge precautions so i am hoping i did not fry the ECU. I would kindly appreciaate feedback thanks

I'm not sure myself... did you take the steps to connect the hyperterminal or can you not even do that before it freezes? Do you have enough space on your laptop/any technical issues with that? If you don't get any responses on here, I would contact TXS directly and see what they have to say. They're pretty helpful.

I have all properties set correctly, including COM port settings and property settings. Now when I follow the start up procedure, connect the serial cable to the UTEC, turn the ignition on, connect the cable to the laptop, open up the hyperterminal and call to the correct COM port. From there the home menu screen will pop up on the laptop, but it appears to glitch constantly, throwing random symbols and letters onto the screen at times. From here, either the hyperterminal will freeze or not allow me to access any screens further than the home menu.

Sounds like a problem with your lappy unfortunately. Is it pretty new/up to date programs wise? Do you have any techie friends that can help you with it?

I have all properties set correctly, including COM port settings and property settings. Now when I follow the start up procedure, connect the serial cable to the UTEC, turn the ignition on, connect the cable to the laptop, open up the hyperterminal and call to the correct COM port. From there the home menu screen will pop up on the laptop, but it appears to glitch constantly, throwing random symbols and letters onto the screen at times. From here, either the hyperterminal will freeze or not allow me to access any screens further than the home menu.

Make sure you have all the advanced settings correct, such as baudrate etc. If those aren't in sync, it'll crap itself, and the UTEC has settings other than Hyperterminal's default.

Ok, so here is the deal; I have been searching through these forums the past couple days trying to figure what kind of EM to go with.

Right now my setup looks like this:
'04 WRX
-TXS TBE
-K&N Typhoon intake
-STi TMIC

And I have the TXS Upipe to put on once I figure out this EM stuff. With my current setup I have thrown the P0420 CEL (cataltic convertor ineffeciency) obviously because of the turbo-back exhaust.

So the question is, will the UTEC 1) fix this code 2) is the UTEC the best way to go about fixing my CEL and gaining the performance of having EM? Or should I look into the less expensive CobbAP? Or maybe no EM at all and do the electrical fix to eliminate the CEL?

I'm pretty noobish when it comes to EM so any and all help much appreciated!!!

So the question is, will the UTEC 1) fix this code 2) is the UTEC the best way to go about fixing my CEL and gaining the performance of having EM? Or should I look into the less expensive CobbAP? Or maybe no EM at all and do the electrical fix to eliminate the CEL?

I'm pretty noobish when it comes to EM so any and all help much appreciated!!!


1) No the UTEC will not fix the code. There is a simple hardware fix (less then 5 dollars) or you (or a knowledgeable friend) can do a free opensource reflash of your ECU to fix it.

2) UserTunableEngineComputer Do you already own a laptop? Do you like to tinker? Are you ready for a learning process of trial and error realizing that it will take some time to get it where you like it? If so... dive into a utec.



Sometimes in life you just want to Up Up Down Down Left Right Left Right B A Start and beat the game. But sometimes the journey is more rewarding then the destination.

... or at least I thought there was a "Select" in there :unamused:

... +1 for the journey!