Just yesterday, my car started having troubles with starting up. I'm trying to figure out what it could be (battery, starter, or spark plugs). If you turn the key, the car is VERY slow at cranking. If you keep the key turned long enough, it just starts suddenly without the usual shake/jolt you'd get if everything was normal. I'm at about 35K on my Subie. At one point, when the car started, the trip odometer reset. Also, the battery fluid levels seem to be at the upper level. Perhaps it's time to get my Optima now :D

Just wanted some reassurance that it's the battery. I'd hate to get the new Optima and the car still experiences the same problem...

It sure sounds like it's the battery. The odometer probably reset because the battery voltage dipped low enough during cranking to drop below the minimum operating voltage of the display.
You can check the state of charge in the battery cells with a cheap battery hydrometer from the parts store. This will tell you if all the cells are equally low or charged, also if one or more cells are weaker than the rest.
Also hook up a voltmeter to the battery and monitor the voltage at rest with engine off (should be about 12.5), while cranking (shouldn't drop much below about 10), at idle with no accessories on (should be 13.5-14.5, give or take- this reading will tell you the alternator is charging).
Check the terminals and be sure they are clean and tight.
Once you confirm it's the battery, Optima is the way to go. As long as you don't need a deep cycle battery for a big system and you drive the car regularly, the Group 35 Reverse Red Top is a great drop-in replacement.

Thanks as always muld - I'm having my buddy pick up a Optima Group 35 from Pep Boys since he's out and about. There aren't two kinds of Red Top Group 35s are there? I think pretty much the Red Top Group 35 is the same as the 35R you and I are referring to. I'd rather pay the $109.99 today than wait for one to get to me from a cheaper online store. It may take a while with the holiday shipping schedule. I remembered you saying that Pep Boys didn't carry the Group 35s when you bought your 75/35. Hopefully they're not confusing the Group 35 with the one you have :)

AFAIK the only one that Pep Boys sells over the counter is the "Universal" 35/75 like I have with the center post terminals and side terminals. I did get mine at PB, and $109 is what I paid. The one you really want is the "Reverse" Group 35 with post terminals only, that is the one that drops right in and uses the old cables.
If you can't wait and have to get that one you will also have to buy a new positive terminal-to-starter cable as the existing one will be too short. Look for my old posts on this, there are a bunch. If you need any more help, just post or PM as always.

Hmmm - interesting. My buddy just got there and picked it up for me. He said if you were looking at the battery right face up, the red post is on the top left and the black post is on the top right. If that's the case, I should be ok right? Meaning that it'll drop right in without any modding of the positive terminal-to-starter-cable. Looks like this I assume:

http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/52/51968/sc35a.jpg

or would be the one on this site?

http://batteriesareus.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=61

OK update - turns out the one that he brought back was the 75/35 one :mad:

And as of now, the car won't even start!!! And most of the online vendors aren't in or probably won't be able to get one to me this week. I really would prefer the Group 35R one so it's perfect fit with the wires. Maybe I'll get the car jump-started and hope the battery recharges itself and will last long enough unitl I can get the correct one delivered to me. I may have to just use the 75/35 one and just get a new starter cable like you muld :( :)

The one in the pic above is the best one to get as the terminals are in the exact same locations as the stock battery. The reverse one you linked to looks like it would probably work too but I can't be certain without seeing or trying it. The terminals on that one appear to be closer to the outside than on the 35/75 but the cable could still be too short. There really isn't that much slack in it unless you cut it loose from where it's secured and let it hang loose- and that is a very bad idea.
I doubt your battery is going to recharge itself, if it did you wouldn't be needing a new one. If you can get your hands on a charger and run it for several hours it might get enough juice in it to run the car, then again maybe not. That's why I suggested a hydrometer, so you could tell if it actually has any charge or was taking one if you plugged it into a charger.
If you decide to keep and use the 35/75 (not the worst thing in the world, electrically it's the same as the other ones), you'll need to go back to the store and get a "Universal starter to switch" 4ga. cable that has the ring terminals on both ends. The length you need is minimum 29-30" (stock one is 24" and is about 4" too short), they cost about $5. Install and secure it along the same path as the stock one (I just left the stock one in place and put the new one next to it). Make sure it's fully insulated and protected for its entire length- I put mine in flex hose, and re-used the rubber boot that covers the terminal at the starter. I zip-tied the boot in place and also used electrical tape to be sure the connection was sealed.

Okie dokie muld - thanks again for all the help. I think I may just bum a ride with my buddy the next week or so and just wait for the 35R. No biggie I guess :)

Ok, let me know how it turns out.
Hope that Pep Boys will take this one back, you might want to call them.

Make sure to clean the cable ends!!!!

Originally posted by mulder
Ok, let me know how it turns out.
Hope that Pep Boys will take this one back, you might want to call them.

I hope so too - what would be the reason that they wouldn't? That maybe I had used it already? :confused: All I have done with it is take it out of my buddy's car and put it on the ground after seeing that it was a 35/75 one.

Uncle Scotty - the cable ends are gleaming clean :)

BTW - I jump-started it like I had mentioned in my previous response. Let the car run for about 20 min. Shut her down and then let it cool for another 20-30 min. And the battery is even more dead than before upon re-starting it. Now it doesn't even try to start --- all it does is click-click-click-click-click-click...

Most stores will have a policy of not taking returns on electrical items. It probably will depend on a combination of how cooperative they are and how you present the return. Best way to proceed IMO is to tell them it didn't fit your car.

Sounds like your battery is really dead now. You've checked that the terminal clamps are tight, haven't you?

yup sounds like it's time for optima batteries!

Hmmm...I really hope they don't deny the return. If they do, then the new starter cable mod is looking pretty good :) The clamps are real tight. I guess I could re-check them though...:confused:

Have you checked for the charge voltage while the engine is running at high idle?

If it is not ~14vdc+, it could be your alternator. Running the car off the battery without a working alternator will be like a total loss electrical system (actually it is, not like).

Please check this before going nuts.

My OEM battery is coming up on 6 years old and still works fine.

I just spoke to a rep at Optima. According to him, the correct Starting battery for an '02 WRX is a Group 35, Red Top, not a 35R. The 35R is non-existant. The 35 has a single set of terminals in the proper orientation, in the proper location (on top of the battery, close to the corners). An extended battery cable is not needed.

For informational purposes....

A Group 25 is the exact same battery as the 35 except the plus and minus terminals are switched.

A Group 35/75 is the same as a 35 except the terminals are mounted further inboard, on top towards the battery's center, necessitating the longer battery cable. Also, the 35/75 has an extra set of terminals located on the side of the battery.

When I got mine over a year ago, the 35/75 was all that was available. Now there is the plain 35, without the additional side terminals and with the posts in the OEM positions. This is what's being referred to as a "35 Reverse" but is presumably the same as the 35 mentioned above.
That one is the way to go regardless of what it's called, it is a true direct drop-in replacement.