Well, after about a month of delay, I finally had a chance to install the TWR Racing 6pot/2pot BBK that was sitting in my storage unit. First off, let me say that Jerry at TWR Racing was incredibly helpful and the kit is first rate. Others have said the same, but I thought I'd reiterate that.

I can verify that the 6 pots with 332mm rotors clear 17" x 7.5" SSR Competitions without any problems. See pics.

The install went smoothly on all four corners, even working out of my storage unit and using the Suby car jack. Since I wasn't going have anyone to help bleed the brakes, I installed Speed Bleeders, two on each caliper. The size for the speed bleeders are the 10mm thread size. Incidentally, the Speed Bleeders retain the 3/8" wrench flats for the nut portion. Buy a 10mm and 8mm Allen key socket so you can torque the calipers to the adapters with a torque wrench.

My only issue with the TWR kit was that the hub to caliper adapters were not as refined as other kits that I've seen, but this is a very minor issue. I have access to a mill, so when I have time, I'll take a little material off and make them "purrty" and lose a little weight.

I elected to keep the dust shields both in the front and rear, so slight mods to the shields were necessary. The front needed a small notch filed into it to clear the adapter, but if one rounded out the adapter, no mod to the front dust shield would be necessary. The rear dust shield took some persuading - read deadblow hammer - to bend it back to clear the rotor. I wanted to keep the dust shield in the back to keep the e-brake mechanisms clean. The rear shields can be easily bent back.

After the install, I preceeded to bed the pads. I used the track pads that came with the setup. I'm hoping to get some Bobcats, but I'll have to get some backing plates from TWR for the 6pots first. Anyways, I heard some slight clicking after the first two 80 - 5mph hard stops, but after that, the noise went away. It must have been the rotors setting against the studs. I did some hard stops from 100mph to 5mph and held the steering wheel loosely. There was no pulling to either side and the there was no strange rear braking bias problem either. I tried some stops over rough road and some dirt on the pavement and the ABS worked fine. I then went for a spirited canyon run afterwards and all I can say is WOW! These brakes are AWESOME! No fade, just solid pedal. I purposely rode the brakes down a long hill to induce fade, but the brakes just kept working great.

I hope to track this setup soon and will give my impressions. Let me know if you have any questions.

I'll add pics as soon as the attachments are allowed again.

Thanks for sharing the experience, from an existing TWR owner. :D

A couple of questions for you:

1) I'm familiar with the 10mm allen socket for the front brackets, but is the 8mm for the rear kit?

2) I run Bobcats in my 4 pot fronts, but don't use a backing plate. I'm on my third set of pads since I track a lot, but I haven't used any backing plates at all. Are these available? Why do you feel that they are needed? Just wondering -- not trying to be a nay-sayer.

Thanks and you'll love the brakes. They work even better under extreme heat conditions such as at the track. :banana:

Scott

Yes, the 8mm socket is for the 2 pot calipers. It's the caliper to adapter mounting bolts. The rear kit also comes with new adapter to hub bolts and you'll want to use those instead of the stock ones.

I'm sorry if I'm confusing you about the backing plates. I'm not talking about plates between the pistons and the pads, but rather I'm talking about the actual plates that the pads are adhered to. TWR's 6 pot pad are not something that Carbotech currently makes, but Jerry says they're talking with Carbotech about that.

I e-mailed Carbotech about availability of AP Racing 6 pot pads and he said that that wasn't something they stocked either. However, he did say that if I send them some backing plates, they can make the brake pads from that. He said that the old ones are fine as they can prep them for their brake material. I asked Jerry if he can supply me with some "blank" backing plates and he said he would, so that's what I'm waiting on.

I can't wait to get my car to the track and really put the brakes to the test. If the canyon run was any indication of how they might work on the track. It's going to be really hard wiping the silly grin off my face at the end of each session.
:alien:

Monie

Oh, my bad -- I did misunderstand you.

So the 6 pot TWR caliper is based on an AP design, kind of like how their 4 pot caliper is based on the Brembo F40 design. You need alternate pad manufacturers for AP 6 pot pads. I got ya now. :D

Enjoy the brakes and thanks for the clarification.

Scott

Additionally, TWR's 2 pot is based on the Mercedes 190/300SL/500SL/CLK/E/SL series of cars and Carbotech didn't stock those either. No big deal though as I'm getting backing plates for both sets of calipers.

The stock track pads worked fine once warmed up, but they do dust quite a bit, even on the low miles I've put on the brakes thus far. As I've read that you like the Bobcats on the street, I thought I'd give them a try and save the stock pads for the track.

I'm sure I'll be doing the naner dance with these brakes.

:banana:

Monie

Originally posted by Moondongle
Additionally, TWR's 2 pot is based on the Mercedes 190/300SL/500SL/CLK/E/SL series of cars and Carbotech didn't stock those either. No big deal though as I'm getting backing plates for both sets of calipers.

The stock track pads worked fine once warmed up, but they do dust quite a bit, even on the low miles I've put on the brakes thus far. As I've read that you like the Bobcats on the street, I thought I'd give them a try and save the stock pads for the track.

I'm sure I'll be doing the naner dance with these brakes.

:banana:

Monie

The OEM pads are track pads in terms of fade resistance and coefficient of friction, yes. However, I found them to be *way* too soft for track use. I destroyed a complete set down to the backing plates in about 1 hour & 15 minutes of track time. This is not a slam on the pads, since they were damn good for 'OEM' pads -- just a little FYI for you if you are seriously going to track the car. Go with Bobcats or preferably Panther XP's for now. I have asked TWR to reformulate their pads but I'm not sure where that stands right now.

Enjoy!

Scott

Good to hear another positive TWR experience!

I've spoken with Jack a number of times and have a set of 332x28 4 pot fronts coming - just need my annual bonus check so I can send the money up north!

I'm going the same route as Scott - I've got Bobcat street pads and Panther XP track pads on order.

Can't wait for them to get here! I'll get to have a big installfest with brakes, A arms, ALK, master cylinder brace and possibly FLT-A2's. That'll make for a fun day o' work!

Originally posted by Flat420
I'll get to have a big installfest with brakes, A arms, ALK, master cylinder brace and possibly FLT-A2's. That'll make for a fun day o' work!

niiiiiice...lucky dog

Originally posted by sdecker
The OEM pads are track pads in terms of fade resistance and coefficient of friction, yes. However, I found them to be *way* too soft for track use. I destroyed a complete set down to the backing plates in about 1 hour & 15 minutes of track time. This is not a slam on the pads, since they were damn good for 'OEM' pads -- just a little FYI for you if you are seriously going to track the car. Go with Bobcats or preferably Panther XP's for now. I have asked TWR to reformulate their pads but I'm not sure where that stands right now.

Enjoy!

Scott

Have you noticed any increased rotor wear with the Bobcats or Panther XP's relative to the stock pads? I know they're ceramic based, but didn't know if they accelerate rotor wear significantly. I'd chose dusting and pad wear over accelerated rotor wear. Despite that, I'll be going the way you're suggesting with the Bobcats and Panther XP's when I start going to the track on a regular basis. I'll use the stock pads and get the backing plates re-lined with Panther XP material when I get the Bobcats. Larry at Carbotech says they can re-line using any amount of pad left on the backing plates, granting the backing plates are OK.

Monie,
We have some backing plates coming. I'll let you know when we get them.
The rotors are made form a hard material, so our customers don't have to constantly buy new rotors. The carbotech pads are TWR Racing rotor friendly:)

Jerry
www.twrracing.com

I haven't used any backing plates at all. Are these available?

Are you refering to the shims that come on the back of the stock pads? These are for noise suppession only and serve no other purpose.

Originally posted by CarbotechMatt
Are you refering to the shims that come on the back of the stock pads? These are for noise suppession only and serve no other purpose.

I thought that Moondongle was saying that his new (6 pot) brake pads needed the noise supression shims. That struck me as weird since none of my 4 pot pads need or use them. Basically I was a moron. :D

Originally posted by Moondongle
Have you noticed any increased rotor wear with the Bobcats or Panther XP's relative to the stock pads? I know they're ceramic based, but didn't know if they accelerate rotor wear significantly. I'd chose dusting and pad wear over accelerated rotor wear. Despite that, I'll be going the way you're suggesting with the Bobcats and Panther XP's when I start going to the track on a regular basis. I'll use the stock pads and get the backing plates re-lined with Panther XP material when I get the Bobcats. Larry at Carbotech says they can re-line using any amount of pad left on the backing plates, granting the backing plates are OK.

I assure you that the combination of Bobcats (street) and Panther XP (track) work great on these rotors. I very closely inspect my rotors both before and after a track event, and I check them casually probably 2-3 times a week on the street.

I did not notice ANY wear on the rotors when using Panther XP's at the track, or the OEM TWR pads either. I have probably 3K miles on the Bobcats and haven't noticed anything either.

The rotors are definitely hard, but Carbotech's pad compounds are friendly to the TWR rotors as well. Just for fun when I'm about to trash a set of rotors anyway, I'm going to put a set of Hawk Blues in there to see just how tough the TWR rotors really are. If there's a pad that can eat a rotor, that'd be the one. :(

Scott

as I have an extra set of 310s that are probably coming your way sdecker. All I need is shipping reimbursed and you can talk to TWR as to how much they'll cost you.

San

Scott: Glad to hear the Carbotech's are TWR rotor friendly. I didn't want to have to invest in a new set of rotors after a season of tracking the car. I'm curious to see how long the rotors last with the Hawk Blues. Keep us updated.

Jerry: Let me know when the plates are available. I'm thinking of getting back Stateside by the end of the month and would like to ship them off to Carbotech for some Bobcats and Panther XP's. 2 Sets of each, please. Thanks. Any news on the Brake Master Cylinder?

Originally posted by oldmansan
as I have an extra set of 310s that are probably coming your way sdecker. All I need is shipping reimbursed and you can talk to TWR as to how much they'll cost you.

San

San -- are these new or used? I'm confused. :D

they're my 310s from my kit. Used, but not very. PM me and I'll give you the details. I have 318s now, could have fit 320s under my SSRs.

San

If the 332's clear your SSR's, I don't think I'll have any problem with my 17" Attacks...

Anyone know this for sure though?

Originally posted by oldmansan
they're my 310s from my kit. Used, but not very. PM me and I'll give you the details. I have 318s now, could have fit 320s under my SSRs.

San

San -- what size are your SSR's, 17 or 18" and what offset and width? I'm asking because I'm about to go with a 17" set. If I can fit 332's I'll be a very happy camper...

Any detail you can provide on fitment with the 4 pots on SSR's would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott

16 X 7.5 SSR Competitions. I was talking to Jack today, and I think I could probably squeeze 325s under my wheels. I know for a fact 320s/322s will fit easily. With my 318 brackets there is at least 2, more like 3 mm clearance between the top of the rotor and the piece to help with pad chatter. If you increase the rotor diameter by 2mm, you only take 1mm of clearance away. I'll measure the clearance between my wheels, but I'm really confident that the 325s will fit under my wheels. I can't comment on 17" wheels, but 332s are a no-brainer. I'm thinking I'll be a TWR consultant very soon. Jack, Jerry?

San

Originally posted by oldmansan
I'm thinking I'll be a TWR consultant very soon. Jack, Jerry?

San

ahahahahah....thanks for the info. I feel the same way. :D

Scott

Scott: No problems with 332mm rotors with 17" competitions. My 6 pots are using the 332's and there's lots of clearance. If you send me your e-mail address, I'll send you some pics of the brakes under the 17" Competitions.

I don't think anyone is running 318s on 16 inch wheels. I think 325s are doable on 16s, so 332s on 17s is easy. moodongle, how much space between the top of the rotor and the top shiny plate between the pads? And how much clearance between the calipers and the wheels? I think TWR should supply me with every size of SSR wheel and rotor they make. Then I can say what fits and doesn't. Jack and Jerry, send them to me pronto.

San

San: I don't have access to my car right now as I'm overseas, but IIRC there was at least 2 - 3 mm of clearance from the top of the rotor to the rattle clip. At the closest point of contact between the rim and the caliper, where the wheel spoke curves into the rim was about 12mm (1/2"). There was about 15mm - 17mm laterally between the spoke and the piston housings.

I have pics of the install both from the side and angled from the top to show clearances if you're interested. Send me your e-mail address. When we're allowed to attach files again, I'll update this post with the pics as well.

I'll be running 16s forever, but for comparison, clearances will be nice.

San

Let me know if you want pics sent.

Originally posted by Moondongle
Let me know if you want pics sent.

Sure - that'd be great! sdecker [AT] bellsouth [dot] net, please.

:D

Scott

Pics were sent. :)

Thanks for the pics! So that confirms the following:

310mm rotors/4 pots fit under stock USDM 16x6.5" wheel
~318mm may also fit the same wheel (San?)
310mm rotors/4 pots fit under 18x7.5" Rota Subzeros
332mm rotors/6 pot and 320mm/2 pot fit under 17x7.5" SSR Competition

I'm going to verify fitment of 310's under 17x7.5" SSR Comps here in a week or so. I don't see why they won't fit since the 332's and 320's do...but I'd prefer to state fact, not speculation.

Surely someone will be able to get some use out of this. I know I wish I had this info *before* buying the TWR kit. I've been paranoid about fitment.

Scott

the 318s fit under stock wheels as I don't have them anymore.

San

Originally posted by oldmansan
the 318s fit under stock wheels as I don't have them anymore.

San

Can you add anything to that list, or have we covered all the bases that we know of?

TIA,

Scott

things I can add are the 318s fit under 16 X 7.5 SSR Competitions. I am confident 320s will fit, and I may find out soon. 320mm rear 2pots also fit under 16 X 7.5 SSR Competitions.

San

Here's the pictures of Moondongle setup:

http://scribb1er.homestead.com/files/6Pot_1_.jpg
http://scribb1er.homestead.com/files/2PotSSR_1_.jpg
http://scribb1er.homestead.com/files/6potclearance_1_.jpg
http://scribb1er.homestead.com/files/6PotSSR_1_.jpg
http://scribb1er.homestead.com/files/Sideview_1_.jpg

scribb1er: Thanks for hosting the pics.

DRRROOOOOLLLLL

RR:D

Looks great! Pretty cool to be able to get custom colors done too!

I just sent off my $ for my 4 pot front setup. I went with plain ol' red, since I've got a silver car and there's about an extra week delay to have a custom color done. Gonna be a tough week or two waiting for them to get in!

The wait time was not an issue with me, so I went custom color. Enjoy your new brakes! Let me know if you have any questions with the install. If you don't have someone to help you bleed brakes, I'd suggest getting the Speedbleeders. They worked pretty well for me. The size you need is 10mm thread.

Thanks Moondoggle! I've thought about Speedbleeders, but have always been able to recruit help to bleed the brakes...

Originally posted by Moondongle
The wait time was not an issue with me, so I went custom color. Enjoy your new brakes! Let me know if you have any questions with the install. If you don't have someone to help you bleed brakes, I'd suggest getting the Speedbleeders. They worked pretty well for me. The size you need is 10mm thread.

Monie -- do you track your car? I thought about going with Speedbleeders myself, since I have them on other vehicles. However, I read reports on the 'net that they can leak or fail under heavy vibration/use at the track. I don't know whether to believe that or not...stupid Internet. Sometimes I think life was easier back before you research everything to death. :D

Scott

Scott: I have yet to track the car, so I can't really say anything about the Speedbleeder in that enviornment. However, when installing them I noticed that the fluid bleed hole in the tapered face of the Speedbleeder was in the same position as the stock TWR piece, so I don't see that there would be any problems. However, I didn't measure the actual tapers of the bleed nut. If there is a difference in angles, I can see there being a problem. The TWR calipers are alloy and the bleed nut are steel, so I would think that the calipers would slighty deform to the taper of the bleed nut if there where any angle difference.

The reason I went with Speedbleeders is because I don't know what it's like with other competitors or their friends helping you bleed brakes on race day. If it's like any other race event I've been too, their a little standoffish. But just in case, I'll bring the stock bleed nuts to the track in case I have any brake problems. ;)

I hear you on the internet thing.

I know the 332 mm rotors also fit with the 17" Subzeros my Blizzaks are on.

Originally posted by virpacalis
I know the 332 mm rotors also fit with the 17" Subzeros my Blizzaks are on.

Sweet! Thanks for the info.

I have the 4 pots running with usdm 16" oem wheels mounted with toyo ra1's for track days. I also use the bobcats on the street and xp's on the track. I can't imagine what the 6 pots are like because the 4's are soooo nice. Knock on wood, no squeaks, no rattles, just smooth dependable brakes!!!

On another note, I used speedbleeders on oem calipers and never had a problem at the track . . . except when I tightened one too much and it broke. Just tighten them until they are snug and you will be fine.


Anyone track with the 4 pots upfront and 2 pots on the rear? Does it improve your stopping much more? I have the h-6 upgrade and didn't really feel a difference.

Gotta go order a set (2 sets?) of the speedbleeders for the twrs now!

Thanks!

Jim
===================
What would Scooby do?

Hmmm, another positive Speedbleeder response eh? Maybe I'll have to seriously consider them...

The speedbleeders are super easy to use. I have a large empty peanut butter jar with two old bleaders in the top to catch the old brake fluid. I attach a length of surgical hose to one of the bleeders on the jar top and the other end on the speedbleeder. Loosen the speedbleeder, pump 3or4 times and tighten it up and I am done. Way too easy.

I have also found it helps to bleed the brake once (3-4 pumps) with the engine off and then again (3-4 pumps) with the engine on. It may use more fluid this way but it really seems to get all of the air out.

Jim
========================
What would Scooby do?

WillysPU (Jim): Since you're up in the Bay Area, are you going to the Speedventures.net track event at Laguna Seca next week? I checked their site and they only have slots on Friday open now. I'm planning a trip back to the US next week and might try to squeeze that one in if I can find someone to roll my rear fenders in time.

I am becoming more and more interested in this kit.

I have also found it helps to bleed the brake once (3-4 pumps) with the engine off and then again (3-4 pumps) with the engine on. It may use more fluid this way but it really seems to get all of the air out.

That's exactly what I do. Glad I'm not he only one. :)

Ok, so the TWR Speedbleeders are a 10mm size, but which model Speedbleeder does that correspond with? I'm checking out the site & trying to figure the model # - ie, what length everyone went with.

Hopefully I've got enough time to get a set before my fronts arrive - Jack thinks they'll ship this coming Monday or Tuesday... :)

Thanks!

You need the SB1010. This is the kit I bought from Oakos. Here's the link.

http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=355&Product_Code=SB1010

I believe Moondongle is correct with sb1010 on the speedbleeders. I ordered mine direct from Speed Bleeder (http://www.speedbleeder.com/)

Moondongle, I haven't tried speedventures yet, I have gone with unlimitedlaps.com, tracquest (too expensive) and ncracing.org. In fact I am registered to go to Laguna 2/11 (Wednesday) with ncracing.org , there is probably still room, join me!


Jim
===================
What would Scooby do?

Jim: I have to get back to work, but I might be able to move my travel schedule a few days back and join you. I'll check out their website and let you know. The Pebble Beach Pro-Am is next weekend, so I thought I might try to hit both Laguna Seca and Pebble in the same weekend. I'll let you know.

Flat420: If you order the parts directly from Speedbleeder, you can order them in stainless steel, but at a little over twice the price of the regular steel versions.

WillysPU: PM'd you about Laguna Seca on the 11th. I'm in!

Originally posted by Moondongle
WillysPU: PM'd you about Laguna Seca on the 11th. I'm in!

Lucky dogs! I'd give up a kidney to run at Laguna Seca.

You boys have fun and be safe, ya hear?

Scott

I plan on running safe and having some fun. :banana:

Wow Moondongle changing work schedules to go racing! I want your boss! Hey, we should get a kick back from Jerry for testing his brakes at Laguna Seca.

Toughest part for me is coming down that front straight going under the bridge foot flat on the floor and not lifting off the gas going over the rise knowing that I still need to set up for turn 2 (the Andretti Hairpin). But hey, I have my TWR 4 calipers this time! Yeah baby!

See you there Monie!

Jim
===============
What would Scooby do?

Originally posted by WillysPU
Hey, we should get a kick back from Jerry for testing his brakes at Laguna Seca.


:lol: :lol:
Won't happen -- trust me, I've tried it at Road Atlanta already. :D

They *will*, however, take good care of you in terms of customer service.

Hopefully enough other people will see all the positive responses from us early adopters to make the kits really take off. Then we can all be 'beta testers' for the new stuff. Heh!

Originally posted by WillysPU
Wow Moondongle changing work schedules to go racing! I want your boss! Hey, we should get a kick back from Jerry for testing his brakes at Laguna Seca.

Toughest part for me is coming down that front straight going under the bridge foot flat on the floor and not lifting off the gas going over the rise knowing that I still need to set up for turn 2 (the Andretti Hairpin). But hey, I have my TWR 4 calipers this time! Yeah baby!

See you there Monie!

Jim
===============
What would Scooby do?

It helps being your own boss. ;) Although I'm not looking forward to the piled up work when I get back.

The last time I was "driving" at Laguna Seca was racing a bicycle. It's going to be a completely different experience for me.

Maybe we have to put some big "TWR RACING" decals on our cars and shave our heads like Vin Diesel before we get some scratch from Jerry.
:lol: :lol: "I live my life a quarter mile at a time...".

See you there Jim.

Originally posted by sdecker
:lol: :lol:
Won't happen -- trust me, I've tried it at Road Atlanta already. :D

They *will*, however, take good care of you in terms of customer service.

Hopefully enough other people will see all the positive responses from us early adopters to make the kits really take off. Then we can all be 'beta testers' for the new stuff. Heh!


Jerry and Jack are some standup guys. They really do go the extra mile.

I wonder what they have up their sleeves now. I'm formally announcing my willingness to be a beta tester. Jerry? Jack? Send it on over!:D

yay! Got me new 4-pot fronts today! I'm wishing I didn't already have stuff to do tonight so I could do the install...

Oh well, tomorrow night will have to do...

Hey bud,

...don't forget to have a 10mm hex socket available *BEFORE* you start, hehe. :D

Don't ask me how I know this.

Scott

PS: post pics when done.

Originally posted by Flat420
yay! Got me new 4-pot fronts today! I'm wishing I didn't already have stuff to do tonight so I could do the install...

Oh well, tomorrow night will have to do...


Have fun with the install. You're going to love the brakes. :D

Flat 420, don't be surprised if the rotors make a little clicking noise for the first 20-50 miles or so, it's just the grooves in rotors getting broken in.

Jim
==============
What would Scooby do?

I've got my TWR 4-pot kit at home (just waiting for the pads to arrive before I install), and I ordered some of the SB1010 Speedbleeders, as you guys mentioned (love that search function). The bleeders look to be the proper size, but the taper does seem much more pointy on the Speedbleeders. Has anyone had any issues running them in the year since ya'll posted this? I'm presuming the 4-pots and 6-pots are the same in this regard....

:confused:
Ted


Scott: I have yet to track the car, so I can't really say anything about the Speedbleeder in that enviornment. However, when installing them I noticed that the fluid bleed hole in the tapered face of the Speedbleeder was in the same position as the stock TWR piece, so I don't see that there would be any problems. However, I didn't measure the actual tapers of the bleed nut. If there is a difference in angles, I can see there being a problem. The TWR calipers are alloy and the bleed nut are steel, so I would think that the calipers would slighty deform to the taper of the bleed nut if there where any angle difference.

The reason I went with Speedbleeders is because I don't know what it's like with other competitors or their friends helping you bleed brakes on race day. If it's like any other race event I've been too, their a little standoffish. But just in case, I'll bring the stock bleed nuts to the track in case I have any brake problems. ;)

I hear you on the internet thing.

I got my answer from the always-helpful Jerry at TWR, who advises the DB1010 works with their kits.


I've got my TWR 4-pot kit at home (just waiting for the pads to arrive before I install), and I ordered some of the SB1010 Speedbleeders, as you guys mentioned (love that search function). The bleeders look to be the proper size, but the taper does seem much more pointy on the Speedbleeders. Has anyone had any issues running them in the year since ya'll posted this? I'm presuming the 4-pots and 6-pots are the same in this regard....

:confused:
Ted

I have had my speedbleeders on since I originally put them on and they work great!

Jim

No problems here either with the Speedbleeders on mine.

Calvin

they work great

Hi, I have a subaru STI with TWR 6 Piston Caliper in the front. I'm in need of desperate help, current I have no more pads life on the brakes and I cant locate the correct brake pads for the calipers. Can someone please help me. Can you please recommend the best brand name that I can use, a website link to where I can get it or even the part number.

Thanks alot.

I loved those brakes on my WRX . . . I wish I still had it. Anyways, I always used Carbotech pads on mine. I used the Bobcats for street and the XP's for the track. Give the guys at Carbotech a call and they will take the time to find the right pads or have you measure yours and fax them the size and locate what you need.

www.ctbrakes.com/ (http://www.ctbrakes.com/)

Trust me, these guys are the best.

Jim Russell

Is the Carbotech pads the best recommend pad I can use for street driving and occasional racing?

Although they are expensive, the best way to go is to have a set of the Bobcat compound for the street and a dedicated set of XP's for the track. I will assume that when you say "racing" you are talking about high performance driving days at a race track and not street racing or drag racing. If you are street racing or drag racing just go for the Bobcats and you will be happy.

The XP's have a highier coefficient of grip but perform at a much highier temp. At low temps on the street they will squeal until you go crazy.

The Bobcats perform great a low to mid temps, they are quiet and do not dust too much for a high performance pad.

The best part is that the Bobcats and XP's are similar materials so you don't have to re-bed you brakes when you switch pads and they are very easy on your rotors. I have tried many pads and I feel this is the best combo.

Oh yeah, if you tell them you are a member of NASIOC they will give you a 10% discount.

Hi, I have a subaru STI with TWR 6 Piston Caliper in the front. I'm in need of desperate help, current I have no more pads life on the brakes and I cant locate the correct brake pads for the calipers. Can someone please help me. Can you please recommend the best brand name that I can use, a website link to where I can get it or even the part number.

Thanks alot.

Can you get me a picture of the pad - a D number?

I would guess it's an of the shelf part - you just have to know which one.