well, you mods deleted the February thread and well didnt put up a March thread.

good job:lol:

yes yes...
us mods are too efficient :D

woo hoo!?!

so who is gona be free on spring break? march 13th to the 22nd.

Define Free...

Originally posted by jeffg
Define Free...

Spring Break? I think you have us confused with College students. There is no spring break in the real world.

hey dustin ... they put the idaho guard on alert to go to iraq..


still want to sign up?...

spring break for us workin' types would be called unemployment

I'm going to take the Subie to Wendover for the weekend to get the driver ready for autocross season. I got no response on the local SCCA forum and so far I'm the only one registered from Idaho. Hopefully I'll have fun even while getting my behind kicked in results. A double driver Evo is already signed up in ESP running Kumhos (I'll be running Toyo RA1s since my Kumhos are hung up at Tire Rack for another few months) -- he doesn't seem to be uberfast, but with a few more years of experience and my car still being stock, I don't have high hopes. I'm feeling extremely rusty after no driving for the winter.

Spring break? Is that the week I go to work and is kind of like every other week? Yeah, I'll be as free as usual. :)

Spring Break this year = Work week for me. Even though I am in college, I don't have any money burn going anywhere...too bad though, Big Sky is usually great in late March.:(

by free i ment that i needed some help on my car. I might have to take the intake manifold off in order to get to the yellow stock injector wires that jared wants me to use. I was also thinking that I might be able to just find the power wires on the main harness that comes out the fire wall and tap them there.

I am coming home on saturday the 13th, so maybe sunday everyone can come over and help, and i can have my dad bbq some burgers. beer will be up to you guys, but if you are driving over it might not be a good idea.

so list of things to do.

1. hook up egt
2. wire injectors (could be a big job)
3. get car to idle
4. install intercooler (not needed)

I know I will be spending the weekend before local autox season starts nutting and bolting my car.

J

Here's a challenge for you.

Try and teach a dude with almost zero computer skill to program a PLC over the phone. I'm talking having major problems moving files, renaming files, finding directories even with someone telling you which folders to click on. You get a dude like this into a ladder file and it gets ugly fast.

I'm about to hang myself.



"So I delete this file right?"

"No, no, rename the file, just follow along with the help file I wrote you."

"Hmm, no where'd it go? Where's it go when you delete it?"

"What?!? Which file did you delete?"

"PLC.prg, is that important?"

"Yeah, we're screwed now."

"Oh yeah, we gotta go online in 45 minutes. But I got the file open."

"How many rungs are there?"

"We got three total, is that enough?"

"We can't turn a lightbulb on with three rungs."

I give my whole family email addresses - all @austinm.net.

It takes me about 30 minutes to properly setup the account properties in an email client with my mom over the phone. We'll go field by field, step by step, letter by letter... and we still manage to get it wrong the first couple times...

Ok, so I have these guys email a file to the GE geeks to test. He sends it as <filename>.zip, it bounces. I tell him no problem, just rename it something, like <filename>.bak and send it again. Then spend 15 minutes explaining how most exchange servers block .zip files for virus protection.

He resends the file as <filename>.bak.zip, I can't help but laugh.

Calls me back asking why it bounced again.

Whew.

jared you gona be free on sunday? i thought maybe we could install my sensors and wire the injectors then the car would be semi driveable to make it to rorys.

i can pay ya for each hour of work.

depends on if the diff and rear suspension come back befor then ..purple car has no rear suspension at the moment
http://home.velocitus.net/jaredw/images/Mvc02119.jpg

Thats pretty funny..... makes it kind of hard to drive right.... well I guess no worse than a normal honda :D

J

Again I ask: Who drives a purple car?

I am glad to see that you removal organization is in tip top shape as always.

"Now this bolt goes....... hmmm"

J

Originally posted by Austin
Again I ask: Who drives a purple car?

Not a man, that much I know!

Originally posted by jeffg
I am glad to see that you removal organization is in tip top shape as always.

"Now this bolt goes....... hmmm"

J

bah i used to repair laptops for a living .. makes car parts stuff easy by comapairison

and purple is better than seafoam.. i think..

what happened? what did you do to that thing?

oh, yea, austin pm me your cell or a phone number that i can reach you at.

You'd better not be asking me about injectors again...

Looks like an ass whoopin acomin....

J

Jeff, hows the knee?

softball sized and stiff as hell

That's what she said...

I knew I had heard that somewhere....

Got two games tonight, should be interesting.

They aren't keeping the statistics for crap, as usual. I got more goals in coed than the dude on the top of the list. I'm shooting for a perfect season and 16 goals total (max 2 per game).

So how'd the games go?

Scored my two goals, along with 2 assists in the Coed game. And we only lost 6 to 4 in the mens game. Not bad considering they are the #1 team in the mens league.

I had a really sweet self assisted off the wall goal in the Coed game. Myself, 2 defenders and the keeper, I blast (well I was running away from them, so it felt like I was blasting) down about 15 feet to the left of the middle of the field, pass midfield, lose one guy and then just outrun the other guy. Wait, wait, wait, goalie comes out and I blast it straight ahead into the wall, cut towards center and the ball meets me there with a completely open net.

I need these 3 days off badly. My right ankle is just plain ugly looking. My entire right foot is black and blue now, I've got partial feeling in my toes and lower foot. My ankle woes are never going away it seems.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=518072

look shawn, your not the only one who picks on big j.;)

Originally posted by WhatleyWRX
Scored my two goals, along with 2 assists in the Coed game. And we only lost 6 to 4 in the mens game. Not bad considering they are the #1 team in the mens league...


Sweet, guess its good luck for me to not show up then..

J

What are you talking about, the only two games we've ever won in mens you were at. One of which I was gone.

yeah but that last team was pretty bad. And I only played for 9 minutes.

so turns out that the legacy turbo diff is OPEN not a lsd :( acording to carl/loma any way... wonder if they are used to clutch type vs viscus..

going to pick up parts this afternoon
dustin call me sunday ill see what i can do

an open diff should be pretty obvious. You should be able to pull the rear cover off and take a look.

J

****, so that site was wrong. that blows, sorry.

you could search on rslibertyclub.org for all the parts to convert that diff to lsd. I know those guys all got lsd with theirs.

damn


sorry.

The 91's turbos have a limited slip rear diff.

AFAIK, 91's were the only year.

Mine has a rear lsd.

austin the electromotive site says that i should use a 300 mhz lap top for tuning, do you think i would be able to get away with a 133 or 266?

yes.

i think i was fooled by outtie output shafts :)

edit got it from here:
http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/lsd/lsd.html

Wendover test and tune and autocross was fun. The stock STi on new Toyo RA-1s (autocross wheels still aren't here, so no Ecstas) was pretty fast. Only the ASP S2000 matched its time (no prepared, mod, or karts all weekend), and it was really easy to drive.

Results from Sunday: http://www.imgoingcrazy.com/results.txt

The STi was third fastest in raw time and 5th in PAX. The Evo beat me by a little over a tenth before losing boost and exiting early. He's got a few modifications already and is planning on more. I've set up a time for mods for the STi (AVO turbo back with cat, silencer delete, STi pink springs, PDE camber plates, strut tower braces, Group N rear strut top mounts, Group N engine mounts, IPd sway bars, Perrin crankshaft pulley), so maybe that'll help a little though I'll never be able to match his tire size. Of course I still need to drive better. Larry Franz in his ESP Mustang is probably cursing imports now.

Matt Guiver set some really fast times in other people's cars and got what looks like the fastest overall time except for a cone which ruined it. Allan Densmore had some mechanical problems which slowed him down (his car is a real beast but seems to have problems of one sort or another at most events). Looks like 3 other Subarus showed up but nobody I recognize. Even the new harder STS PAX isn't enough to keep the top 5 PAX spots from having 2 STS cars!

I have got two Lsd one for the R160 and one for the R180 which one is yours?if you want me to send pictures let me know.

i got an email after posting on rslibertyclub.org, if you tell me what one you need then i can try to get the price. also said they would send pics. if we can find someone on a military base in ausi land then shipping would not be very much. I sent a unichip to ausiland and shipping was only 25 bucks. How much do the internals for the lsd weigh?

the internals (which would be fine) hardly anything...5lbs
a r160 LSD.. clutch-type, surtrack or viscus diff (in that order);)

i broke down and ordered another egt gage from gruppe-s .. ill just sell the other one when it comes back from RMA .. if it ever comes back from RMA (curses greddy):furious: :furious: got it at cost tho..

dustin did you say that the parted LT was a canaian model? .. that might explain the lack of rear LSD

so got half the car back together this afternoon, dam the bushings are stiff. changing a strut is now a major pain

the car that is parted out is US, the new one is from canada. we can check the new one and if its got an lsd we can take it out and swap with the other because my mom wants to get ride of it now.

and sitting in the drive way now is a 98 gt 5MT. ugg new cars ever time i come home. but dad did take back the crossfire.:confused:

also, i dont have a wrench that is big enough for the o2 sensor, do you have one that will fit?

ya have wrench
scrape off the back of the diff see if it says LSD on it
like so
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=2465323898

http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/IMG_0039.jpg

Hi Dustin,
The one on the right is the R160,The price is $750 the are nearly $2000 new it is a Cusco lsd.
Cheers
Terry


and that is in auzi dollars

U.S. would be 546.298 USD

dang, seems kinda high.

forgot to add, if jared is gona come over tomorrow then i thought i would invite everyone else. J, you can stay for dinner, steak, and all that stuff. i will call you at like 12, i am gona go party tonight.

no call?

Did I read somewhere in there that you say an LSD only weights 5lbs?

I know that there is some difference between the OEM VC LSD and my Cusco, but it weighs more like 15-20lbs. Its pretty dang dense for as small as they are. If it includes the ring gear or bearings it would be pretty close to 20lbs.

J

What do people think about a lightweight battery such as the Braille (15 Ah, 11.5 lbs), Genesis 16EP (16 Ah, 13.5 lbs), or Odyssey PC680 (16 Ah, 15.4 lbs)? I hear the stock STi battery weighs about 32 pounds and its near the front of the car, so shaving off 20 pounds from the front sounds good. I don't relish the thought of my daily driver failing to start though.

i researched those, and found that lots of people run them. mostply the odyssey.

ugg, saturday night = to much to drink.

i threw up twice yeasterday:rolleyes:

WRX_Mundi

Where were you planning on aquiring this new battery? Is there a local source for them? I am always interested in reducing weight in the car, especially in the front.

Maybe we could set up some sort of local GB or something.

Would anyone else be interested?

J

autometer =fine
in the headder just after the head (~3 in)
there is a nice flat spot on the casting

jared, can you show me this on a picture?

http://home.velocitus.net/jaredw/apart3.jpg

That picture doesn't have a cast manifold, therefore, you can't show it. Do a search for EGT install, there are a bunch of pics showing where to put it.

If you look on the manifold itself, you can't miss the casting button.

EDIT:: well, yeah you could show it, but you couldn't show where the cast button is.

Originally posted by jeffg
Where were you planning on aquiring this new battery? Is there a local source for them? I am always interested in reducing weight in the car, especially in the front.


I haven't talked to anyone locally. Maybe I should call Shae at ISC.


Braille: http://mastrowrx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=244

or http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7583&highlight=braille

which is a group buy already going on. $115 shipped which seems like a good price. $140 plus shipping from Mastro.

Odyssey PC680 is $70 from http://www.gotbatteries.com/Productpage.asp?ProductNum=37L105S5 plus $11 for the SAE terminals.

Genesis 13EP and 16EP are both $65 from the same place.

i can get optiam red tops at dealer cost, i will talk to my guys and see if they can get one of those.

after seaching, i found that the egt probe should be mounted within 4 inches of the number 4 cy. exhaust port.

so about in this area?

http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/apart3.jpg

jared, i got the new o2 sensor installed and all wired up. I also found the bolt for the knoc sensor, got the bolt out, but the plate and hole are a bit off so the sensor will not go in so i am gona have to work with that.

Originally posted by subiekid
i can get optiam red tops at dealer cost, i will talk to my guys and see if they can get one of those. Even the lightest 12V Optima is almost 40 pounds, isn't it? The ones I listed above are between 10 and 14 pounds. I don't think the Optima's are designed for light weight, though other than that they seem to be a mighty fine replacement for the OEM if you don't care about adding a few pounds.

I ment that i can get optimas at cost, so i will ask them if they can get the other batteries for me, like an odyssey.

on scooby mods they said put it on cyl number 3.

http://www.azscooby.com/images/scoobymods/egt_probe_number_3.jpg

jared, can i get to this without removing the manifold?

http://mail.bogusbasin.com/img/browseable/varoom/purple/ej20g/MVC01774.JPG

ok, should i just try to remove this section of the manifold and tap it right where that small flat spot is?

http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/man.jpg

and i cant get the knock sensor to come apart. i put a wrench on the adaptor and put another wrench on the sensor and cant get it to come off. any advice?

http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/knock.jpg

Originally posted by subiekid
I ment that i can get optimas at cost, so i will ask them if they can get the other batteries for me, like an odyssey. I see. Sounds great!

#1 yes that is the correct place to tap the sensor(3) ...cyl 4 is optmial, due to it being at the end of the fuel rail, but in and inconventant place .. remove that piece and tap it .. be 100% sure that no metal shavings are left as they will fly into the turbo (bad)

#2 i used a vice plus a wrench to get my knock sensor off i think i botched the sensor i still have it some where.. it was designed for a 2.5 any way . they arn't cheep tho

intersting your exaust collectors look like the ej205 collectors vs the ej20G collector ..

ohhhh yeah that heat shield is made out of unobtainium. stuper hard to drill through .. shawn and i used a diamond tipped hole saw to get through ours.

cool, thanks, i am working on installing the gauge into my dash and all that.

should i take that part of the exhaust down and have the bung welded in?

I am gona get a header at some point, so i am not sure if it would be worth it to have it welded in. I might just leave the heat shield off for now.

I used a little itty bitty Dremel cutting wheel to get through my heat shields.

Tip: Notch your heat shields, don't just cut a hole. If you notch the heatshields instead, you can remove them without removing whatever probe you notched it for.

Notching isn't a bad idea, but if you are using a SST swagelok compression fitting (like what GReddy uses) and don't screw it up (tighten it too much) when installing, it will come off down the road pretty easily. I've removed 20 year old instruments in plants with a crappy endwrench before. If its carbon steel then yeah, its not coming off after a month. Sadly, I have a ton of experience with fittings in general.

You don't have to weld the thing.

I didn't have my dremel at the time, but that would work great for this.

Put the heat shield back on, don't half arse the thing.

well the knock sensor is going to have to be replaced, that thing is not coming off.:(

Why do you need it to come off?

cant get to the upper portion to tighten it down. maybe with that part of the header off i will be able to.:(

I don't speak Jared...

What "upper portion" can you not get to? Are you saying you can't get a wrench on the adapter body?

hey:mad:

yeah how are you suposed to torque the engine mount w/o getting it off ...

(hopefuly dustin isn't using my 3/8 troque wrench for that)

ding ding ding, good thing jared understands me.

yea, i cant get to the addaptor if the sensor is still on it.

Austin, how did you get it off with everything attached?

dont worry about your torque wrench...:lol:

Jared and you understand each other because you speak the same freakish language. Whereas Ausin and I both speak English, maybe you've heard of it.

ok, i got the hole drilled, i could not get it to start, but after about 2 minutes it started to catch, and then about 2 minutes later i was through. That was with a 1/8 bit, I then took a 1/4 bit and blew through it in about 45 seconds.

here are some pics of everything.

http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/man1.jpg
http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/man2.jpg
http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/man3.jpg
http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/man4.jpg

ok need control systems guy here

i am considering using the tec inline IAC ~$185 with adapter
but need a 1 way valve .. do you know of a part that will mate up to 1/2 npt and flow under vacume and close under boost simple ball valve perhaps? able to hold ~250 kpa..the tec documention recomends at least 1/2" worth of flow .. so it might have to be bigger

the factory system used a 1 way valve built into the manafold .. but i am not sure that the way i have it mounted now it wouldn't leak under boost..

hmm no idea what that sensor next to your oil pan is .. its not on any off the three engines that i have ..

to get that mount to line up loosen the mount to frame bolt, jack the engine up from the oil pan .. use a pice of wood to prevent metal to metal contact/denting

I'm not sure who needs what now...

Jared - You're looking for a one way valve, threaded in 1/2" NPT?

Ever hear of a PCV valve?

ok, knock sensor is installed, manifold is back on, with sensor mounted in it. But, the damn heat shield is being a bitch and will not go back on (tried for 30 minutes got pissed and came in to take a break and eat a salad.

the o2 sensor is installed and wired up, i think all i have left to do is rewire the injectors.

does anyone know if there will be a 12 v for the injectors past the clip where the ecu and the manifold harness meet? The only way i can get to the original 12 vold injector wires is if i take the intake manifold off. So i thought there has to be one to four of the 12 v wires that lead to the manifold harness, but some place before the manifold harness. any ideas?

so i am just down to:
1. finishing up small things (clearing up wires, zip ties, ect...)
2. re wire injectors
3. mounting battery in trunk (easy, should only take 1 to 2 hours)
4. tuning the damn thing:(

dyno tune will happen once i get the rest of my stuff on.

list of new items to install/get
1. new turbo - 16g, or a vf 22 or 34/9
2. header - borla
3. exhaust -borla hush
4. custom front mount intercooler
5. GM electronic boost controller
6. larger injectors or additional injectors


if ya can think of anything let me know.

jared, if you wana come over tonight i will get pizzas, if anyone else wants to come they can, but i dont think it will be that fun.

ok, i am going to get a distribution box for my power cable. I will take the 2 gauge from the trunk and run it into that box, then all the things around the battery will also get connected to that box. My questoin is, where should i put the fuse. I will be placing a 140 watt fuse 10 inches from the battey in the turnk, but i dont know where to put the other. should i put it right before the distrubution box? or should i put it after the distribution box?

here is a picture to help.

http://www.myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/power.jpg

how about a nice VF-10 ... you also need injectors ...

with a bigger turbo

You should buy my RC 550cc injectors. They're low impedance - better for you.

injectors are number 6 on that list. i want to try to do everything at once. you gona be free tomorrow? i am going to my grandparants for dinner, but we could get some stuff done before you head to the dentist. i just need to get that battery mounted and then the tuning can start.

i found the power wire before the manifold harness for the injectors, there are 4 of them. so i will just check them with a volt meeter once i get the battery installed.

jeff, i know you are the best when it comes to the electrical stuff, so can you help me out with my question about the fuse?

Originally posted by Austin
You should buy my RC 550cc injectors. They're low impedance - better for you.

wont fit into my manifold. i need side feed, yours should be top feed. or the other way around, i cant remember.

Originally posted by subiekid
jeff, i know you are the best when it comes to the electrical stuff, so can you help me out with my question about the fuse?

That just cracks me up.

Jeff,

Hows the knee dude?

Shawn.

What the hell are you fusing?

You don't put two fuses in between the same two pieces of equipment.

So you got like a 11.5A (I'm drunk and winging math in my head, I could be wrong here) fuse between the battery and the distribution block. This "Other" fuse you speak of, if you are fusing the tech, then put it on the tech wire, if you are fusing the alarm, put it there. You gotta have an idea as to what you are trying to protect.

Originally posted by subiekid
My questoin is, where should i put the fuse. I will be placing a 140 watt fuse 10 inches from the battey in the turnk, but i dont know where to put the other.

P = IE

In other words, at 12 volts, your fuse would be rated for about 12 amps.

I think you meant to type "140 AMP fuse" right?

Originally posted by WhatleyWRX
That just cracks me up.

Jeff,

Hows the knee dude?

Shawn.

I am the Electrical Master! Bow down before my might!

*cough* anyway...

The knee... well interesting you should mention that.... it has been dislocated until today. I have been to 3 doctors and no one has noticed this fact. Now that it is located in its correct place, I am sure that healing will be much easier.

I still have a ton of swelling and quite a bit of pain now. Up until tonight I had a hard time even walking around. The 4 flights of stairs to work each day was kicking my ass.

J

Originally posted by WhatleyWRX
What the hell are you fusing?

You don't put two fuses in between the same two pieces of equipment.

So you got like a 11.5A (I'm drunk and winging math in my head, I could be wrong here) fuse between the battery and the distribution block. This "Other" fuse you speak of, if you are fusing the tech, then put it on the tech wire, if you are fusing the alarm, put it there. You gotta have an idea as to what you are trying to protect.

To some defense of poor Dustin, his install would actually benefit from two fuses. He has relocated the battery in his car to the trunk. Thus he has two current sources seperated by about 15" of cable. In the event that this cable should ground itself, a fuse might prevent more damage. The first fuse would be near the battery to isolate that current source from ground. The second fuse would be to isolate the alternater. You should use the same sized fuse in each location. Your 140A fuse might be a bit excessive, but it should do the job.

Hope that clears things up.

J

Well, whatever the explanation, if you have two fuses on the same conductor, then make them the same AMP rating. Otherwise having two is stupid, as the lowest rated fuse would always blow (this side of a serious electrical spike of some sort) and the higher rated one would never blow.

I still don't see why you'd need to, we're talking about what, 15ft of wire here at 12VDC? We don't put a fuse every 15ft on a conductor and we have many current sources.

Of course I don't speak Jared-Dustin-ese, so its quite possible that I just misunderstood the question. Does the cable split somewhere? I just thought it would go directly to that distribution block.

1. i never said that the fuses would be of a different rating.
2. i cant find an fuse that is rated at 130 amps (not watts)
3. should i put the fuse before or after my distribution box?

austin, should i put the tec ecu and the dfu on different chassis grounds? or should i run a ground from the tec ecu back to the trunk to the batt?

Shawn, its not an electical requirement, its just a vehicle safety thing. I have seen a lot of unfused power wires in car stereo installs catch cars on fire when the the power wire got grounded.

Basically we are just covering all our bases. Worse case we have to buy an extra fuse.. Best case we limit the damage from an electical short. Its not really that big of a deal.

Dustin, before the distrobution block. I assume your devices (Tec, alarm, etc) have their own fuses.

Electricity is Electricity, whether its in a car or not.

Maybe we're talking about two different things.

Case A:
Battery ---- Fuse ----x-------- Fuse --x-- Distribution Block

Case B:
Battery ---- Fuse ----x------------------x-- Distribution Block

A short in the wire at either mark, in either case, would cause the same thing in either case, granted on Case A its tough to say which fuse would pop first if shorted on the right side, but the same thing will happen.

Are you trying to save the wire in case it shorts on the other end of that fuse or something? I don't know what the DC ampacity of a 2 guage wire is, but I'd assume it could handle 130A.

And yes I agree the other devices should have thier own fuses after the distribution block.

"Disclaimer: This is a discussion, not an argument, I'd like to keep it that way."

The only problem I see in your diagram is you have a source of current at each end of the wire.

Battery---- Fuse1--------------------A----------------Fuse2----Alternator


If the wire were to short at point A, Fuse 1 would prevent the battery current from flowing to ground. Fuse 2 would prevent alternator current from flowing to ground. Fuse 2 really only comes into play if the car is running at the time of the short.

If you had

Battery ----Fuse --------------------A------------------------ Alternator

and the wire were to short at A, the alternator would be free to flow current to ground until the wire melted and stopped flowing current.

Does this make sense? I think the confusion may lie in the bidirectional nature of the wire and current flow.

J

So you are saying the current is bi-directional on this? I might have to go to the judges on this one.

The charging and voltage sensing wires should be different than the 2 gauge main line to the distribution block. Shouldn't they?

You have one sensing wire going from pos+ on the battery to the alternators regulator (yes, this could come from the distribution block) and one wire going from the output diodes to the pos+ side of the battery (working similar to how you jump a car).

EDIT:: Actually there will be two more more in that alternator plug for field current to the regulator and diode trio.

No I am not saying the current is bidirectional at the same time, but current can flow through the wire in more than one direction based on the situation.

Once the short occurs you have two circuits; one from the battery to ground and one from the alternator to ground. Each of these circuits should have a fuse. The fuse is located as close to the battery as possible in order to ensure that the short occurs after the fuse, not before it.

You also have current flowing in two directions if the battery is supplying current to the engine, or if the alternator is supplying charge current to the battery. The are exclusive cases. Obviously you cant have electrons flowing in two directions in the same conductor.

J

If you still dont believe me, then green beer may clear your head.

Originally posted by subiekid
austin, should i put the tec ecu and the dfu on different chassis grounds? or should i run a ground from the tec ecu back to the trunk to the batt?

typically shortest ground possible, though I dont know what kind of signal ground the tec uses. Might add noise if there are a bunch of different grounds.

J

Green beer is for pansies, I stick to Guiness.

Going out with a girls soccer team tonight, so it should be ok. I plan on being about half sheetfaced by 9ish. I told my boss I was taking tomorrow off in observance of my religous holiday.

In retrospect, I can see it (yes i've been drinking). The charging wire would come into the distribution block then. I'd fuse it on the alternator side.

Its funny, since I never sleep more than an hour a day, my brain is foggy most the time, but one or two beers and its crystal clear. 3-4 and i'm a moron again.

Originally posted by Austin
I'm not sure who needs what now...

Jared - You're looking for a one way valve, threaded in 1/2" NPT?

Ever hear of a PCV valve?

will that provide enough air to maintain an idle tho..

so i have 3 less teeth .. lots more pain wisdom teeth=teh suck

yumm.... just had a 6 pack of st. paulies. that stuff is good, but afte ra few they get old;


jared, if i get the car all ready can i bring it over to your place and have you help me tune it.

http://www.vishnutuning.com/bb/showthread.php?threadid=1825&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

this is for Austin and Big J.

Austin which knock sensor did you include? The reason I ask is because I am going to be road tuning, and if I have the original knock sensor then it could be a bad thing.

So, with old knock sensor, the tec sees knock starting at 3000 rpm. If i have auto tune on, will it start to retard timing? Will it retard enough that I will be loosing HP?

thanks

dustin

Bloody Irish Bastards....

I decided to go ahead and get in on the group buy for the Braille battery. He says if you want you can still get in for a few more days (he's already past 10). $115 shipped which makes it one of the more expensive options, but it is the lightest, arguably has the highest CCA, and the price isn't too much more (once you add $12 for SAE terminals and shipping to the others).

Funny, I was just coming in to post this link I found.

http://www.gotbatteries.com/Productpage.asp?ProductNum=37L141S5

I will have to check out the details for CCA, etc.

J

Originally posted by jeffg
Funny, I was just coming in to post this link I found. The Hawker web site states that automotive posts aren't available for the 545, but it sure looks like they'd work.

There is a bunch of variables with regard to cranking power. The Braille document goes into some of it, as does this link: http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm. I wouldn't put major faith on the CCA/HCA numbers other than within a brand or in terms of general performance. Here's what I've got:


Braille....15Ah...11.5 lb...360 CCA...585 HCA...5.8x3.3x5.9
G13EP......13Ah...10.8 lb...280 CCA...440 HCA...6.9x3.3x5.1
G16EP......16Ah...13.5 lb...280 CCA...440 HCA...7.2x3.0x6.7
PC680......16Ah...15.0 lb...280 CCA...440 HCA...7.3x3.1x6.7
PC545......12Ah...12.6 lb...235 CCA...360 HCA...7.0c3.4x5.2
stock......48Ah...32+ lb....356 CCA...lots HCA...big


The G13EP and G16EP look awfully nice and they'll run you $76 plus shipping. The Braille looks in specs like the nicest one (smallest, a bit more starting power, decent Ah comparatively, light weight) but is normally about twice the price (and lacks the name recognition that Hawker has). The group buy made the price more attractive though still more expensive, and I decided to bite.

i talked to my friend, his dad owns a sled/outdoor shop here in caldwell, he can get the battery, but will have to wait till tuesday to get the prices.

one thing to consider, if you have an alarm you might not want to do this. These batteries have no reserve, so it might not last long if you have anything that sucks on the 12 volts after the car is off.:(

THe 1995 supplies power directly from the battery to the main engine harness through the main relay under the dash. This means as soon as you turn the key on, the injectors and other components on the engine harness are getting 12V. The ECU controls the ground (each conector for each injector has a yellow wire with some kind of stripe for the 12V and another color wire which is ground,).


so if i cant find a wire under the hood for the injector power can i just find a 12v under the dash and use it?

maybe right off the fuse block that is inside the cab?

wiring the injectors is the only thing left to do. I am gona try the auto tune tomorrow. From my research, the tec 3 might work with my IAC, but I am not sure about that.

jared, can you come over this afternoon?

ok, going for the 4th post.:rolleyes:

I have been reading the vishnu forums like crazy. :eek:

How do I convert pounds per hours to cc?

Austin had 550 cc and in the tec it was set to like 61.34(?).

I have 360 cc injectors, that is a difference of 6.55%.

I also need to change the UAP (slop) from 11.80 x 1.06 = to 12.508

and POT (offset) from -.675 x 1.06 = to -.7155

this should get my injectors to the correct firing/load. Then i can use the auto tune to correct the entire table?

should i worry about timing, on austins map it looks like timing is advanced up to 40 degrees. it has a 10 degree advance for startup/idle.

here is the timing graph

http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/timing.jpg

I am not gona worry about taking the car up this time. But will be back in a few weekends to work on it.

Originally posted by subiekid
How do I convert pounds per hours to cc?

Some good injector math for ya:
- cc/min / 10.5 = lbs/hr
- lbs/hr / 6 = gal/hr
- cc/min x .015873 = gal/hr

Originally posted by subiekid
Austin had 550 cc and in the tec it was set to like 61.34(?).
I don't remember what map I gave you, but some of my maps were done with 550cc injectors. Some were done with 635cc injectors.

Originally posted by subiekid
I have 360 cc injectors, that is a difference of 6.55%.

Let's do an idiot check on your math.

How in the F*@$ does 360/550=6.55% get past your "am I stupid" filter?

Granted, you've only mucked your decimal by one place... but there's a world of difference between 6.5% and 65.5%.

What's your major?

Originally posted by subiekid
I also need to change the UAP (slop) from 11.80 x 1.06 = to 12.508

and POT (offset) from -.675 x 1.06 = to -.7155

Ignoring the fact that your actual numbers are as wrong Jared claiming to posess a college education, UAP isn't what you use to fine tune your fuel curve. If your numbers give you a UAP of 15.3642, set it to 15.4 and go from there.

POT can only be set to .025 increments.

The VE table is where you do your fine tuning of the fuel curve.

yea, my math was wrong, big time. I guess this is what i get for trying to work on this **** at 1 a.m.

Ooh, Ooh, more posts from Austin please!

What is your major? That's a unit conversion, anyone in college should at least have an idea how to do it.



Shawn

If your numbers give you a UAP of 15.3642, set it to 15.4 and go from there.

yeah but haveing a good UAP/TOG is a large help

and
I have been reading the vishnu forums like crazy.
good...:cool:

Originally posted by Jaxx
yeah but haveing a good UAP/TOG is a large help

Sure, but you're splitting hairs...

First off, it's without all the proper tools, it's more trial and error anyway.

Let's assume, though, that you posess a million dollar state of the art data collection system, you have installed and ready to monitor the car you're tuning, and you're able to unequivocally assert that exactly 15.3642 milliseconds is the perfect UAP for a given scenario.

In the example above, rounding to 15.4 would give you an "error" in your UAP of .0358 milliseconds, or about .23% error margin.

The values in the VE table vary from -30% to +30%, or even more... so what's .23%?

It's a nuisance, that's what. Taking the UAP out to tenths is good. Taking the UAP out to hundredths is a waste of time.

yeah what i am saying is that 15.3 is going to be alot more fun than say 11.3 though it will still run with a 30-40% correction.. finding that rough value is the hard part

so my first valuse were off, so would they be?

UAP from 11.80 x 1.65 = 19.47
and POT from -.675 x 1.65 = to -1.113 ~ -1.125?


do those look about right?

Need some help

My friend from the house has an 87 xt turbo, and has got a buyer lined up. The sad thing is that my friends brother went out to jump the car the other day, but mixed up the terminals. So the automatic seat belts still work, but the car will not start, and the dash does not show anything. Does anyone have any idea of what to check?

are there hidden fuses/relays that might be good to check?

two sets dash and in the engine bay

19.75 seems reallly high i have my offset at 1.125 tho:)

dry socket sucks

What did the other subies think of the Sunday autocross course? I think it was the tightest course I've ever run. I should have been shifting into first more often and getting better with throttle modulation in 1st gear. I was in second for most of the course (except the pivot cone near the end) and got major engine lugging out of every corner. Stefan Kemper co-drove my car (first autocross in it) and he was having problems getting a handle on it since according to him the turbo would kick in right when he least wanted it (i.e. right as we were approaching a braking point). He was also having major gearing issues and insisted his 911 would have been much better since it could have driven the whole course happily in 1st gear.

I'll be going from the tightest course to the most open. Spokane this weekend! One of the track calculators said I had an _average_ speed of 103 mph for a lap last time (1m 58s lap). Hopefully I'll be in the C group instead of D and traffic won't be as bad. The RA-1 tires should help as well -- I just wish I didn't have to autocross on them as well (SSR wheels plus Kumhos are still scheduled for late April delivery).

Originally posted by WRX_Mundi
What did the other subies think of the Sunday autocross course? I think it was the tightest course I've ever run. I should have been shifting into first more often and getting better with throttle modulation in 1st gear. I was in second for most of the course (except the pivot cone near the end) and got major engine lugging out of every corner. Stefan Kemper co-drove my car (first autocross in it) and he was having problems getting a handle on it since according to him the turbo would kick in right when he least wanted it (i.e. right as we were approaching a braking point). He was also having major gearing issues and insisted his 911 would have been much better since it could have driven the whole course happily in 1st gear.

I'll be going from the tightest course to the most open. Spokane this weekend! One of the track calculators said I had an _average_ speed of 103 mph for a lap last time (1m 58s lap). Hopefully I'll be in the C group instead of D and traffic won't be as bad. The RA-1 tires should help as well -- I just wish I didn't have to autocross on them as well (SSR wheels plus Kumhos are still scheduled for late April delivery).

I had a blast, and while my times definitelly werent the best for the day I felt like I did pretty good only nailing one cone out of my three runs. For reference I never got out of first in my car on that course and only hit the rev limiter once coming into the stop box.

The course on sunday was incredably tight. I hit more cones on Sunday than I did all year last year. Doesnt really bother me, but it is annoying. I ran pretty much the entire course in 2nd, which managed me a 25.2. I thought that was pretty good.

Being a drivers school, I guess it was okay. Every single newbie i talked to thought it was awesome. That means it was a success?

Anyway. I hope this weeks course is drastically different.

J

Of course any seat time is better than none, and I suppose new things are good to work on. Lots of work for very little actual course time though. What bothers me is that apparently I hit cones but I never found out which ones and we didn't hear anything in the car.

I didn't get to watch anyone in my run group, which is too bad. We'd get the car parked, switch places, get strapped in and it was time to go again. Patrick, you ran the whole thing in first gear? Wow.. We went to second right after the first slalom cone, went back to first for the pivot cone on the far side, then short shifted to second before the next right hander. I think going back to first after the slalom into the right hander might have been better since I had serious lugging there (got on throttle really early, but just no power), then back to second. Probably should have left it in first after the pivot cone all the way to the finish, but I'm not sure.

I think you turned a great time, Jeff -- wish I could have seen you run. I ended with a 25.56, while Don Ordiorne (also ESP) beat me out with a 25.48. Tentative results had Gerry's Boxster crushing the field with his 23.6 run and Mike Clarke in FS finishing 2nd in PAX. I came in 8th, so Jeff must have come in ahead of that. Top novice was Steve Cava in his Miata I think with a 25.something. Definately a Miata course.

Yeah I would have loved to have kept that 25.2 run but unfortunatly I got stuck with a 2 cone penalty on that one. Not sure where, but I cant really see much behind the car.

I was having a hell of a time trying to get the nose of the car where I wanted it to be. I would turn, nothing would happen, then suddenly WAM I was pointed way further than I thought I should be. This obviously made my arm flailing worse. On average, not a good set of runs. The one 25.2 run did feel great, but like I said obviously not that good if I hit 2 cones.

Anyone have opinions on why this delayed turning would occur? I dont remember this from my STS days, so I am not sure I could blame it on street tires. On the other hand I have no idea what kind of pressure I should be running with the Falken ST115's. On my azenis sports I typically ran 45+ psi, so my 40 psi in the ST115's was probably too low. Any comments?

J

Originally posted by jeffg
Anyone have opinions on why this delayed turning would occur?

What size tires and what size wheels?

17x7.5
215/45-17 Falken Azenis ST115's

40 PSI all around.

J

OK... that's not it.

If you use tires that are too wide for your wheel width, you can get delayed turning. 215's definitely aren't too wide for 7.5" wheels...

Could the answer be that I was just over-driving the tires (understeer) and then as I scrubbed speed trying to make the corner, they grabbed and went the way they were pointed?

I have never noticed this on my Kumho Victo's, but they obviosly have a lot more grip at the start of the corner.

J

Whacha! take that thread... I kill thee.

J

Dude,

Hows the knee? I think we're going to do another round of coed, but might be doing outdoor instead. We lost our first coed game last night when we put one of the girls in goal and quickly gave up 5 dribblers to lose 4 to 5.

Pretty sure the men's team is dead, we got two more games and its probably either gone, or over until the fall. Just too rough on us non college athlete types, half the team is injured right now.

Also, I need to learn how to play ultimate frisbee, the gals are trying to talk me into playing that. My right arm feels like silly puddy from softball practices the last two weeks. That's going to be another painful experience. We got 3 people who've actually played baseball/softball.

Well everytime I think the knee is feeling better I almost hit the ground. Walking is pretty much back to normal, but I cant squat down or do more than a gimped jog. I am going to dig out my PT book from my other knee surgery and see if I can help it out some.

J

Well, we came out with a tie tonight. It was a tough fought game, three guys on our team sub out at the same time while the other team is driving with less than a minute to play. It was silly and it cost us the win.

My ankles are complete junk now, they don't heal at all. I limp every day and can't run, jog or even move fast without pain. I'm going to have to have something done about them if I can.

Shawn.

Originally posted by jeffg
Whacha! take that thread... I kill thee. Guess I'm not the only one that does that! Sorry I don't have any answers for you on the tire question.

Looks like you were getting just a bit too close to the cone here:

http://www.pbase.com/image/27269857/original.jpg

I have some more of your car and quite a few of Patrick's. Nothing wildly exciting. Here's a in-car video:

http://www.jacobsensation.com/dana/Autox_2004_03_21_Dana_2.wmv

Originally posted by WhatleyWRX
My ankles are complete junk now, they don't heal at all. I limp every day and can't run, jog or even move fast without pain. I'm going to have to have something done about them if I can.

Shawn.

WooHoo!

I'm going back under the knife in about a month to have my ankle fused. All the cartlidge is mangled/missing... No more ankle joint for Austin.

wow... that sounds incredibly... umm.... untasty.

Was that pic during the practice in the morning?

J

woo cone killer!!


i think i may take the black car out to skyview .. maybe.:confused:

Originally posted by WRX_Mundi
I have some more of your car and quite a few of Patrick's. Nothing wildly exciting. Here's a in-car video:


Any good ones?

Originally posted by jeffg
Was that pic during the practice in the morning?Yes. I worked timing in the first session, then was doing dual driver in my run group which gave us just enough time to switch seats and get buckled in before going out again. So no time whatsoever to do pictures of the course itself unfortunately.

The other quickly thrown together photos are here: http://www.pbase.com/dana/autox040321&page=all

One of PB in there. After your one gonzo run you toned it down a lot so all the rest are kind of the same. I should have moved around some more and gotten better shots, and I really should have gotten the white balance correct, but that's life. I'll do more for the April event -- assuming I don't have to do both registration and timing. If you want a nice one, Patrick, I'll get on it (I'll rotate it for that sensation of speed thing, get the white balance better, and adjust the exposure).

oh sure... only Patrick gets a nice one.... I see how the STI owners are gonna be :D

J

When I get back next week I'll do a nice picture for all the subies. Even the under-powered, over-tired, far too stinking fast ones. :)

HA! Jared didnt have his car running that day... what do you mean? :D


Have fun at your track day.

J

Next AutoX is Sunday right? I wish I didn't have to work.:rolleyes: I want to watch one again, I had a blast just standing around and watching last time.

Originally posted by jeffg
WRX_Mundi

Where were you planning on aquiring this new battery? Is there a local source for them? I am always interested in reducing weight in the car, especially in the front.

Maybe we could set up some sort of local GB or something.

Would anyone else be interested?

J


Just got the Braille which sheds 20 lbs off the front end and install was a snap since it included all the necessary parts; now I get even better turn in than those that do the lightweight bumper beam without the sacrifice in safety. Only paid $125 shipped which included everything I needed for the 15 minute install.

No problems starting at all. Handling in the turns is noticeably improved.

Handling in the turns is noticeably improved

???:rolleyes: ??

Originally posted by Jaxx
???:rolleyes: ??

Originally posted by Nivek-CA
Only paid $125

Handling in the turns is noticeably improved.

See Jared? Handling was improved by $125. The old "I spent money, car must've improved" cause & effect relationship.

Originally posted by Austin
See Jared? Handling was improved by $125. The old "I spent money, car must've improved" cause & effect relationship.

The reduction of 20 lbs off the front end by replacing the battery has improved how the car reacts when accelerating out of corners. I can push it a little harder without squealing the tires as much as before the reduction in weight.

Looks like we'll have to forfeit our last soccer game as only those of us still playing actually paid for it. Don't think they'll let us play when we still owe $200.

Heh.

Shawn.

Originally posted by Nivek-CA
The reduction of 20 lbs off the front end by replacing the battery has improved how the car reacts when accelerating out of corners. I can push it a little harder without squealing the tires as much as before the reduction in weight.

no it doesn’t .. sorry

glad you like your mod but no it doesn’t do a dam thing to affect the way a car reacts when accelerating out of corners ...
3263+weight of gas+weight of a person is no affected by 20lbs

where are you from?

http://www.cabinfever.org/images/fgm-troll.jpg

Actually, my car is not stock weight, nor stock in performance, but you can think what you want. It was actually very noticeable.

just like the removal of the front bumper beam

well say 20/3563 = 0.0056132472635419590232949761436991% reduction
weeeeeeeeeeeee

edit: oh sorry forgot to add 5lbs for the green neon underbody you have surly added

20/3568= 0.0056053811659192825112107623318386 reduction

http://www.cabinfever.org/images/fgm-troll.jpg

note to others:
suprise suprise he is selling light weight batterys among other things .... and going to law school .. figures

Originally posted by Nivek-CA
The reduction of 20 lbs off the front end by replacing the battery has improved how the car reacts when accelerating out of corners. I can push it a little harder without squealing the tires as much as before the reduction in weight.

What were the conditions of your test? Was it conducted back-to-back? Were the track and ambient temperatures the same? Was it conducted on a track? Did you have the same fuel-load in your car? Tire pressure? Bowel loads? I'm not doubting that removing weight from the front is going to affect your balance. I'm just questioning your ability to "feel" a difference of only twenty pounds. It's hard to qualify your comments without knowing the steps you took to isolate the weight-savings in determining an increase/decrease in handling performance.

At the 1995 Brazilian Grand Prix rumor had it that the Benetton Team asked one Mr. Schumacher to "hold his bowels" until after the car (and driver) had been weighed.... According to legend Mr. Schumacher held it for a week and a half before the race.



:)

Disregarding those pesky punctuation marks, Jared nearly made complete sentences there...

More weight distribution posts by Jared please!

Nivek-CA -

I am a bit confused now. I see your post in the FS forum in which you're trying to sell these batteries:

Brand New Braille Super Lightweight Battery Package; never used (lose 20 lbs) (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=521762)

Originally posted by Nivek-CA
I am selling this battery because I ordered 1 too many. Call me if you have any questions. 310-383-3623.

MSRP: ~$197


Originally posted by Nivek-CA
Thanks...let me know if you are still interested...I can get more from the manufacturer.


Which is it? How many have you sold so far? Sounds like you should be a registered NASIOC vendor if you're trying to hawk these batteries...

I bought this battery, installed it and was quite impressed. (see details of my subjective test below), as was my friend. I subsequently ordered one for him and wanted to surprise my father with one for his car. When I gave it to him, he did not want it because he said he needs all the weight he can get on the front end of his front wheel drive Dodge. As such I had that extra one to sell.

Some other friends asked about the availability of the battery if they bought three. During an email exchange with Braille's owner about possibly developing other lightweight parts for the WRXs and STI, we discussed a battery group buy that I ultimately setup and completed on another website--not this one.

With respect to the ad for the extra battery that i had, I continue to get emails and inform people about the benefits I experienced. If they want me to get them the same deal, I will.
I did sell the extra battery in the process.

With respect to my tests, they are not objective or anything like a skidpad, but here is what we did. On Sunday morning, I took my STI to the canyons very close to my friend's house in Southern California. After taking the STI up a canyon that is only one way, we found a few curves that I could take at 45 mph with a decent amount of tire squeal. We went to his house, swapped the batteries and ate lunch and returned to the canyons. When driving that same canyon in those same corners, less tire squeal occurred at the same speed. While not absolute proof, that was enough for me. In higher speed turns, I did feel that the car's turn in and response improved.

I then went a second time, this time really pushing the car to the limits. I thought it felt stiffer on the side of the vehicle where the battery was located. Particularly when accelerating in and out of right hand corners, the car seemed to respond and grip better with the lightweight battery. The left hand turns were not as noticeable.

Since my feedback is not appreciated, I can keep it to myself and not share it--sharing is something people value. However, I am entitled to my opinion as you are yours. If you disagree, then we can discuss it here--I have no problem with that. If you think I have a conflict of interest, then it would be appropriate for you to raise it as a point to address. How about doing so in a courteous manner?

That everybody can respect.

Originally posted by Nivek-CA
If you think I have a conflict of interest, then it would be appropriate for you to raise it as a point to address. How about doing so in a courteous manner?


Previously posted by Austin
Nivek-CA -

Sounds like you should be a registered NASIOC vendor if you're trying to hawk these batteries...

so your gonna add street racing to your list of "cool" traits
weeeeeee

if you not here to halk batterys (which i think you are) why are you (still) posting in a local forum

go away
http://www.cabinfever.org/images/merlin-troll.jpg

damn... sleep in one day and look what happens... man..


Jaxx, can I ask where you got you 3263lb number? I know the WRX is heavy, but is that what they really weigh?

PS, I need to come over again and pull CEL codes. If I down to just the P1443, then back the dealer it goes, otherwise I have to fix it.

J

3263 .. curb weight of the STI
from autos.yahoo.com

will be home after 8

The KYB AGX struts for the GC8 fit GF8's right? Is there anything else I'll need? I saw something that said I would need new strut tops, bumpstops, dustboots and the spacer washers that go between the top of the perch and the strut top. I've also heard camber bolts are good to do "while I'm there" Also what's a decent spring to use, P1, Eibach...something else.

After I do struts and springs what's a good thing to do next to improve my car's handling? Sway Bar? Anti Lift kit?

well if you go with a bigger sway bar you will have to run in a different group. might try like urithane bushings and all that.

weeee, lets go street racing on brodway.:p

any why is the guy with a 310 number posting in boise forum.

Originally posted by skiertrav
After I do struts and springs what's a good thing to do next to improve my car's handling? Sway Bar? Anti Lift kit? I've heard a lightweight battery does wonders to a car's turn in and steering response...

:p

:lol: :lol: I heard that too:rolleyes:

Are you worried about SCCA classes? If you change struts and springs you are already out of a stock class right there. A sway bar wont make things any worse, class wise.

What problem with the car are you trying to solve?

J

I need new struts, and springs anyway, and since stock bits and pieces are about as much as anything else I'd be looking at, I figured why not. When it says minor modifications to shocks are allowed...how much is minor? I assume since it says stock condition and intake, and exaust(which I have no problem removing since mine are crap anyway) isn't mentioned at all, until you get to the street prepared class, they are not allowed in the stock classes either.

Trav,

If you want to come race, I would investigate the STS class. This will let you do a number of things to your car, and not penalize you for not running race tires.

STS is a blast! Probably my favorite class.

When it comes time to install said struts and springs, let me know. I have done several, and can help you whip them out pretty fast.

J

hey everyone. I have the 92 turbo that started life in canada and its running like crap. I pulled the number 1 plug and it looked good, it was not wet or black. The injectors are new. I kinda think the turbo is going out. You can hear it spooling, but it never really kicks in.

I do not have a boost gauge in it, should i install one and see if the turbo is even hitting boost?

any other ideas?

thanks

Get a boost gauge.

What does the TEC say your MAP is?

no, i am driving my back up car. its a 1992 subaru legacy turbo. My 95 with my ej22t and tec are at home. my 95 has a boost/egt/airfuel ratio gauge. soon my defi din pack will be here, it has oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp.

i will get a boost gauge for the back up and see what it says. the turbo sounds like its spooling quite a bit for only running 6psi and having the muffle box on it.:rolleyes:

austin you still selling your turbo? i might get it formy 95 andput the turbo from that one onto the back up car.

any smoke .. like black smoke? like wildly rich?

boost leak? - black smoke
clogged cat?- from too rich for too long
leaking bov? - no smoke but lots of sound

whoa austin traded the wrx for ... a truck?:confused: :confused:

well white smoke comes off the motor every time you drive the car. i think the passenger side head is leaking onto the manifold.

i thought austin was getting an sti?

Originally posted by Jaxx
whoa austin traded the wrx for ... a truck?:confused: :confused:
Well, I am from Idaho...

need to do a compression test

is it very hard to do a compression test? do you just hook up something to where the spark plugs go and bring the motor to TDC for that piston?

i am just guessing with this.

Disconnect your fuel pump, pull all spark plugs out, then thread in your compression tester to one cylinder at a time. Crank the motor over a few times, or until the compression reading stops increasing.

Best done hot.

also need to open the throttle all the way ..
disconnecting the injector leads is easier than disconnecting the fuel pump .. unless there is a fuse some where..

my friend told me to disconect the coil pack wires, and then take out the fuse for the fuel pump. Not sure if everything on a honda is the same as a subaru. Do we have a fuse for the fuel pump?

and how much are compression test kits?

1 MIIIIILLLION DOLLARS

Use your freakin head...

The bottom line is that you want to pump the piston up and down in the cylinder a few times to see how much pressure you can get - compression.

If you have spark plug wires, you obviously want to disconnect the coil, as it wouldn't make much sense to have the plug wires arcing all over the place with no spark plugs installed...

You don't want fuel squirting into the cylinders while you're testing, so you need to cut fuel flow somehow. However you want to do it is fine.


Compression tester kits can be had for $25 on up.

Give up Austin, just give up.

Originally posted by Whatleyn00b
Give up Austin, just give up.

Why is your name Whatleyn00b?

Oh, I get it... April Fools...

How special :rolleyes:

WRX

"I just want to remind you all that today is Hawaiian shirt day... so if you want.. you can go ahead and wear a Hawaiian shirt and jean..."


If I wear a hat to work today, I get a half day off....

J

soo looking at the june 3-4th drivers school at PIR .. $149 plus assiocated hotel/gas fees..

http://www.cascadescc.com/racing_dt.cfm

Originally posted by Jaxx
soo looking at the june 3-4th drivers school at PIR .. $149 plus assiocated hotel/gas fees..

http://www.cascadescc.com/racing_dt.cfm

do they have these but with cars provided?